I also changed out my timing chain tensioner by following the instructions on this video. Thank you very much for the detailed information ChavezHobbies! One thing that I also had to do was to compress the tensioner all the way, almost flush. That was the only was I was able to put it back in.
You're welcome brother! Other people have also mentioned that they had to compress that piston more to get it to fit. I guess I got lucky that my piston was sufficiently compressed when it came from the dealer.
NOTE: before attempting this you can compress the tensioner even more by holding the tooth mechanism from locking the rod from going in further. Hold it with a little flat head and press it down in the floor with a rag and it’ll compress even more you’ll hear the pressure. Then loosen it 2 clicks and it’ll be able to fit the pin. After doing this you’ll have way more room to fit it back in. Make sure you align the tip of the rod on the tensioner to the little trimming inside of the tensioner housing. Hold it in place and smack it with with a mallet or flat head. You can use the flat head to hold it in place and hit it gently in the back causing it to compress enough to slide in back to place. The timing pin hole will even line up when done correctly.
Nice vid bro. But u don't need expensive Honda bond.. The ultra Grey silicone works. Been a mechanic for years. Long b4 this Honda bond thing came out.. And it works super fine if applied properly.. And I won't be surprised if it's the same thing honda rebrand and charge 3 times more for the name 😂
Thanks! I noticed that Permatex makes good RTV, which is what I will buy next time I need to make a gasket. I also wouldn't be surprised if Hondabond is rebranded stuff.
Without knowing more about the car, the first guess would be to check the engine and transmission mounts. There are three engine mounts and three transmission mounts. If the rubber is cracked, then they no longer dampen the vibrations of the engine and youll feel it inside especially on idle. If you use aftermarket mounts you will still deal with vibrations because aftermarket mounts don't perform the same as OEM mounts. Here is the video on the transmission mounts ruclips.net/video/YeBMelfkV_Q/видео.html Here is my video on the rear engine mount ruclips.net/video/_TnN4wFCf80/видео.html. Those are the only two videos I have on the mounts. You can check the mounts by using a floor jack. Insert a piece of wood between the floor jack and the engine/transmission, then jack up the engine/transmission and look to see if the rubber in the middle of the mounts are separating. To check the transmission mounts, lift under the transmission. To check the engine mounts, lift under the engine.
Appreciate your video. I just replaced the tensioner on my 09 Civic Si, k20z3 and was stuck on how to remove the tensioner. Unlike your vid shows, the orange tab on mine was at the 11 o'clock position and would not come down enough to slip the pin to lock it in place so I could remove it. Anyways I went ahead and removed it without locking in place and was able to remove it. The replacement tensioner however was exactly as your video shows it should operate so I'm still lost as to why my Original tensioner was backwards. Also I'm hoping the timing didn't change, currently waiting for the hondabond to dry so in 2hrs I will find out if all went well. Great video though man!
Glad to hear the video helped. Did you change your tensioner for preventive maintenance or because you are having a problem with the engine? I changed my tensioner at about 90K mi. Let's hope your timing stays good. Let me know if everything goes well!
@@ChavezDIY everything went well. Filled the engine with oil and started right up. I replaced the tensioner for preventive maintenance purposes, the car is up to 140k and has not giving me any problems i figured this will offer a peace of mind since these tensioners seem to be the Achilles heel for the K-series. The tensioner and VTC solenoid 😄
That's awesome! Feels great when you accomplish some preventive maintenance. I've heard about the VTC solenoid and the VTC screen filters giving issues. I have not had the issue, but I recently bought the VTC screens (front and rear) and will replace for preventive maintenance. I also have a valve adjustment on my to do list.
Thanks for the feedback! Make sure to read the pinned comment and the video description. Some people had to compress the piston further to get the new tensioner to go into the engine.
Is this the same for a 2010 Civic Si coupe? My research suggest(from folks who have replaced their TCT) to line everything up, as in TDC and the marks, then proceed with the instructions you divided. In other words, open up the valve cover. Is this necessary?
I can't confirm that its the same for the 2010 Civic Si. That car uses the K20Z3 engine and from the google photos, it looks like it has a TCT cover just like this K24A2 in this video. The instructions from the OEM service manual are written verbatim towards the end of this video. There is no mention of needing to put the engine in TDC.
I mention the timing in the description of the video. No, the timing on the chain is not affected by changing the tensioner. This procedure only releases tension from the chain but its not enough to skip a tooth on the cam gears or crank gear. You can do a search for k20 or k24 timing chain videos to get an idea of what's going on inside the engine when you remove the tesioner
Here's a link to a video where it shows what's happening when you release the tensioner. It has some slack, but not enough to skip timing by itself. The instructions I typed into the video are from the OEM service manual. ruclips.net/video/gLrXm-wOCKE/видео.html
Yes, I keep up with oil changes and use Mobil 1 for oil. The front Vtec screen was leaking oil so I changed that gasket recently. I plan on doing a valve adjustment in the near future and will change out the valve cover gaskets while I am there.
My tensioner did not fail and I did not have any codes when I replaced it. I changed it as part of preventive maintenance. My car had already hit 100k mi and was 10 years old so it was time to change it. I would change the tensioner every 100k mi or 10 years, whatever comes first. Tensioners are cheap, engines are expensive.
The piston needs to be compressed and locked in place in order to fit. Compress the piston and stick a push pin into the orange hole to lock it into place. After you get TCT in, you release push pin and the piston pops out.
Miguel Chavez not even the original one goes back in and even when I compress the piston. I was just wondering if there was a trick to putting it back in
I did notice that when I installed the new TCT that I bought from the dealer, the piston seemed to have been pushed in farther than I could compress the old one with my hands. It shot out with some good pressure when I released the lock.
@miguel chavez great video. I'm planning to do the same with my 02 Rsx. Question, how did you maintain the tension while the TCT is out while you replace it with the new one? Im afraid i might move the chain and mess the timing when i remove the old TCT. Thanks
When it is out for replacement, you don't have to worry about maintaining tension or messing with timing. There's not enough slack in there to mess with the timing. After you put in the new tensioner and pull out the locking pin, the piston in the tensioner will shoot forward putting tension on your chain. I suppose if you pull out the tensioner and start your car without a tensioner you might mess with the timing, haha.
Miguel Chavez dang dude this was just a nightmare. The old TCT got stuck and was a pain to remove. Eventually when i got it off the chain jumped timing. Had to call a mobile mechanic to help me with this hole i got into. Question for you, when you replaced the TCT how many clicks did you do when you released the tension?
I changed the oil and filter while doing this job, kill two birds with one stone. It's not necessary to drain the oil because the elevation of the access to the timing chain tensioner is above the oil pan where most of the oil sits when the engine is off.
Oh ok cause changing this part is my next move on finding out what's causing my Auto tensioner to Rattle, i read of this Forum this guy wrote with the same issue i'm having that this was the fix so fingers cross it works.
Great video, I have an 06 TSX that is due for belt tensioner change as a preventive maintenance...Did any oil come out when you opened the tensioner covering plate?
Thanks, I made the video because there's a lack of videos on this for the TSX. The instructions listed at the end of the video are taken from the oem service manual. Just a few drops of oil came out cause most of the oil lies down in the oil pan when the engine is off. I removed the serpentine belt from the crank pulley as a precaution to prevent any oil spilling on it. Youll need a small pry bar or flat head screwdriver to pry off the cover plate as the hondabond holds it in pretty good.
I agreed! There should be more instructions on how to fix our cars! Honestly I still have no idea where the tensioner is located in the car :( is it behind the right front tire?
Yes, you have to remove the front passenger tire, then remove the splash shield that covers the access to the engine. The tensioner is located to the top left of the crank pulley. It was easy for me because i no longer have any splash shields, they ripped off after lowering the car and scraping them to death, haha.
Just like you, I've recently learned to fix the car the most I can. Replacing the chain tensioner will so far be the most difficult job (I think so) I've ever done on the car! So turn the crankshaft to compress the old tensioner, insert a pin into the hole(s) (I only see one, the HELM manual says there're holes???) take it out. Then compress the new tensioner, put it in place, remove the pin that hold it compressed, seal the tensioner door with honda bond and wait for 3-4 hours to start the engine (for the seals to dry up?). That's my understanding of the process. Did I miss anything?
Yes, correct, but the information is still relevant. This was my first time replacing the TCT and I had no intentions of making a video until I reflected on the experience when I was done. I even listed the instructions verbatim from the OEM manual in the video. That's why I labeled the video "replacement tips". If I have the opportunity I will film the full procedure but that hasn't come up yet.
buen video me suscribi a tu canal, tengo una pregunta, cuando remplasaste el tensor y puso el nuevo, como hace para darle la tension correcta a la banda de tiempo, o solo la pone y da buelta el dado 19 en contra del reloj?
gracias. al fin del video at 5:07 estan las instrucciones. Antes de sacar el tensor viejo, le das buelta contra del reloj al dado 19 para poder meter el pin en el candado naranjado. Luego le das buelta con el reloj al dado 19 para darle tension a la banda de tiempo, y ya quitas los tornillos del tensor y sacas el tensor viejo. Cuando pones el nuevo tensor, lo metes, le pones los tornillos, sacas el pin y solo le va poner tension a la band de tiempo.
Miguel Chavez muchas gracias por responder, es mucha ayuda su video y mas por la explicacion en español. trabajare en mi 07 tsx con la confianza de su buena explicacion amigo, gracias!!
Miguel Chavez disculpa tengo otra pregunta mas,..para mover el crankshaft o la polea cuando estas sacando el tensor viejo o poniendo el nuevo es necesario poner la palanca de velocidad en Neutral para que se mueva con mas facilidad o no es necesario? 🤔
No es necesario mover la palanca de velocidad. Lo mas dificil de este trabajo es sacar y poner de regreso los tornillos del cover plate porque no tienes mucho espacio, pero todo con calma.
tae FU did you change your tensioner? Check for diagnostic trouble codes with a scanner. You can also reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery terminals.
DO NOT replace the timing chain tensioner without maintaining tension on the exhaust side chain guide. Failing to do so could cause the chain to hop a link. Also, if the piston of the tensioner is extended by 13.5mm, then the chain needs to be replaced.
The exhaust side of the timing chain can be accessed if the cylinder head cover is removed. I would never pull off my tensioner without maintaining tension on the exhaust side of the chain . Removing the tensioner creates slack in the chain, and will most likely throw the timing. Camshaft locking pins and a pry bar on the chain guide should be adequate to hold the chain in place. Simply popping off the access panel and swapping the tensioner is asking for it.
I have the OEM service manual and it mentions nothing about maintaining tension on the exhaust side chain guide by removing the valve cover. The timing chain sits on the teeth of the cam gears at the top of the engine and attached to the crank gear at the bottom. Simply releasing tension on the chain (guides) via tensioner is not going to throw the timing off. If the chain is worn enough that changing the tensioner throws off timing then that's a problem that needs to be repaired, not a maintenance item. If your problem is that serious, you might as well look at replacing the chain guides too.
I'm just saying that as a precaution, it makes sense to put tension on the chain prior to removing the tensioner. If the exhaust side chain guide moves at all during the replacement, gravity could cause the chain to slip on the crankshaft gear. And since there is no way to determine how far the tensioner is engaged without removing it, it only makes sense to be careful. I've read the FSM guide thoroughly and disagree with the procedure. There is nothing to keep the exhaust side guide from moving after the tensioner is removed. It's an impact engine. I'd say it's worth the extra step to avoid potentially having to reset the chain and replace damaged valves.
Dang I have over 300k miles on my K24....finally changing it...I ended up taking off the entire cover to inspect everything...one of those "well since I'm in there"...all started from a small job leading to a much larger one
It's good to hear your K24 is lasting 300k mi! It's hard to keep track of every single maintenance item a car needs unless you do a lot of research. I get tired of keeping track of all the maintenance a combustion engine needs, I can't wait to go electric in the future. Was it difficult to remove the entire cover? Sometimes a small job does lead to a bigger one. You think, "this will be quick" LOL.
You may need to compress the piston on the new TCT more to be able to fit it in. You can use a vise to compress the piston or some channel lock pliers.
Miguel Chavez okay UPDATE after a painful 30 minutes. I found out that you can hold the tooth on top of the little compressor and press the rod down even more then factory, I did this and then loosen it 3 clicks so you can put the pin in the hole. Line the really compressed unit back in where the head of the rod meets the little sitting area on the timing guard and then hold it in place and hit it when a flat head or mallet and it will clip in place, it’ll be a really tight fit but this was the only way I was able to get it back in.
@@Andre_1901 Thanks for the update on that. I'm sorry I wasn't able to film me doing the replacement. At the time I got lucky and didn't need to compress the piston further. I will pin your comment so it shows up at the top when people view the video.
Miguel Chavez thanks for the video it helped a lot, originally I was upset because I thought the timing had skipped. But Honda made a safety feature to where it won’t skip when removing the tensioner. You mentioned that in earlier comments. Thank you
@@Andre_1901 Its pretty scary working on anything that messes with the timing chain. Even I was sweating it the whole time when I did this, haha. Cheers.
No, I did not replace the chain as this is a preventive maintenance item and not a repair. I supposed if you're having engine problems along with a check engine light then a change of a chain might be the repair. Chains are known to last a long time. Chains are also known to stretch like you mentioned, some people say they don't stretch but rather the links get worn. Its a good question, I think I would ask, when do you need to change the chain? Changing the chain is not a maintenance item though, its not listed in the OEM service manual. Ill take a peek at the manual and see when it does recommend to change the chain (as a repair item).
Okay interesting. My check engine light is on atm and I was abit worried because my dad's engine (K24) broke with 186.000 miles on the same chain and tensioner. sad, but that proves that you're right about the chain lasts long. Was it a hard job to change the tensioner? i'm not a mechanic, but I know how to change basic stuff like brakes, suspension etc.
Sorry to hear about your dad's engine, that sucks. If your CEL is on, scan the car through OBD2 to see what codes you get. On amazon there are plenty, I have two scanners, this cheap one gets the job done www.amazon.com/Oxgord-Scanner-Engine-Diagnostics-Direct/dp/B011Q18D14/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1475093120&sr=1-3&keywords=obd2+scanner all the Autel ones are great too.
Got one! It says the upper lambda sensor :) so guess im good (Y) Was it a hard job to change the tensioner? i'm not a mechanic, but I know how to change basic stuff like brakes, suspension etc.
I'm not a mechanic either, but cars are important in our lives so I've learned stuff here n there and pretty much do the same basic stuff that you do (brakes, suspension, fluid changes). When it comes to oil changes, I do either every 6 months or 5k mi (whatever comes first) I always use Mobil1 Synthetic High Mileage. The tensioner job wasn't hard to do, but the hondabond takes 3hrs to cure and you CANT turn on your car in that time so give yourself plenty of time.
I have a 2002 jdm rhd accord cl7 automatic with k20z2 engine with 170’000 km and the engine starts tickling noise and i knew it was timing chain tensioner..
Glad you are on top of finding the sources of the problem on that engine. The timing chain tensioner is relatively easy to replace compared to let's say a timing belt. I can't believe Honda/Acura uses a timing belt on the V6's. I was looking into buying an Acura RDX in the future and was bummed to find they use a timing belt, not a chain. Only the older RDX's with the 4 cylinder turbo engines have a timing chain.
***CHECK VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR LINKS+UPDATES+CORRECTIONS+MORE INFO***
I also changed out my timing chain tensioner by following the instructions on this video. Thank you very much for the detailed information ChavezHobbies! One thing that I also had to do was to compress the tensioner all the way, almost flush. That was the only was I was able to put it back in.
You're welcome brother! Other people have also mentioned that they had to compress that piston more to get it to fit. I guess I got lucky that my piston was sufficiently compressed when it came from the dealer.
NOTE: before attempting this you can compress the tensioner even more by holding the tooth mechanism from locking the rod from going in further. Hold it with a little flat head and press it down in the floor with a rag and it’ll compress even more you’ll hear the pressure. Then loosen it 2 clicks and it’ll be able to fit the pin. After doing this you’ll have way more room to fit it back in. Make sure you align the tip of the rod on the tensioner to the little trimming inside of the tensioner housing. Hold it in place and smack it with with a mallet or flat head. You can use the flat head to hold it in place and hit it gently in the back causing it to compress enough to slide in back to place. The timing pin hole will even line up when done correctly.
This is the most instrumental video about this issue 🤦🏾♂️ thank u so much
If I remade this video now, It would be better. It did what I could at the time.
this video really ensured me ill be able to do this, me and my unicorn thank you!!
Nice vid bro. But u don't need expensive Honda bond.. The ultra Grey silicone works. Been a mechanic for years. Long b4 this Honda bond thing came out.. And it works super fine if applied properly.. And I won't be surprised if it's the same thing honda rebrand and charge 3 times more for the name 😂
Thanks! I noticed that Permatex makes good RTV, which is what I will buy next time I need to make a gasket. I also wouldn't be surprised if Hondabond is rebranded stuff.
My 2004 acura tsx vibrates way to much especially when I have it drive or reverse. What could be the issue and how do I fix it?
Without knowing more about the car, the first guess would be to check the engine and transmission mounts. There are three engine mounts and three transmission mounts. If the rubber is cracked, then they no longer dampen the vibrations of the engine and youll feel it inside especially on idle. If you use aftermarket mounts you will still deal with vibrations because aftermarket mounts don't perform the same as OEM mounts. Here is the video on the transmission mounts ruclips.net/video/YeBMelfkV_Q/видео.html Here is my video on the rear engine mount ruclips.net/video/_TnN4wFCf80/видео.html. Those are the only two videos I have on the mounts. You can check the mounts by using a floor jack. Insert a piece of wood between the floor jack and the engine/transmission, then jack up the engine/transmission and look to see if the rubber in the middle of the mounts are separating. To check the transmission mounts, lift under the transmission. To check the engine mounts, lift under the engine.
Appreciate your video. I just replaced the tensioner on my 09 Civic Si, k20z3 and was stuck on how to remove the tensioner. Unlike your vid shows, the orange tab on mine was at the 11 o'clock position and would not come down enough to slip the pin to lock it in place so I could remove it. Anyways I went ahead and removed it without locking in place and was able to remove it.
The replacement tensioner however was exactly as your video shows it should operate so I'm still lost as to why my Original tensioner was backwards.
Also I'm hoping the timing didn't change, currently waiting for the hondabond to dry so in 2hrs I will find out if all went well.
Great video though man!
Glad to hear the video helped. Did you change your tensioner for preventive maintenance or because you are having a problem with the engine? I changed my tensioner at about 90K mi. Let's hope your timing stays good. Let me know if everything goes well!
@@ChavezDIY everything went well. Filled the engine with oil and started right up. I replaced the tensioner for preventive maintenance purposes, the car is up to 140k and has not giving me any problems i figured this will offer a peace of mind since these tensioners seem to be the Achilles heel for the K-series. The tensioner and VTC solenoid 😄
That's awesome! Feels great when you accomplish some preventive maintenance. I've heard about the VTC solenoid and the VTC screen filters giving issues. I have not had the issue, but I recently bought the VTC screens (front and rear) and will replace for preventive maintenance. I also have a valve adjustment on my to do list.
@@ChavezDIY valve adjustment is next for me. Good thing you haven't and hopefully wont deal with the vtc. Again thanks for the vid man
,
Do you have any rattles on startup now? Failed VTC gear is what everyone says causes them, not the tensioner.
I have never had rattles at startup. That's not a tensioner problem. Like what you said, VTC gear is one of the main issues.
@@ChavezDIY Helpful clarification, thanks
Thank you, good video, I’m about to do same.
Thanks for the feedback! Make sure to read the pinned comment and the video description. Some people had to compress the piston further to get the new tensioner to go into the engine.
Is this the same for a 2010 Civic Si coupe? My research suggest(from folks who have replaced their TCT) to line everything up, as in TDC and the marks, then proceed with the instructions you divided. In other words, open up the valve cover. Is this necessary?
I can't confirm that its the same for the 2010 Civic Si. That car uses the K20Z3 engine and from the google photos, it looks like it has a TCT cover just like this K24A2 in this video. The instructions from the OEM service manual are written verbatim towards the end of this video. There is no mention of needing to put the engine in TDC.
Good video, by doing this and moving the timing belt and putting a different tensioner, would the timming on the car change, and should it be checked
I mention the timing in the description of the video. No, the timing on the chain is not affected by changing the tensioner. This procedure only releases tension from the chain but its not enough to skip a tooth on the cam gears or crank gear. You can do a search for k20 or k24 timing chain videos to get an idea of what's going on inside the engine when you remove the tesioner
Here's a link to a video where it shows what's happening when you release the tensioner. It has some slack, but not enough to skip timing by itself. The instructions I typed into the video are from the OEM service manual. ruclips.net/video/gLrXm-wOCKE/видео.html
Just keep up with the oil changes and right oil in the car. Don't skip out on fixing leaks
Yes, I keep up with oil changes and use Mobil 1 for oil. The front Vtec screen was leaking oil so I changed that gasket recently. I plan on doing a valve adjustment in the near future and will change out the valve cover gaskets while I am there.
Good morning .. any codes at the time the tensioner starts to fall??
My tensioner did not fail and I did not have any codes when I replaced it. I changed it as part of preventive maintenance. My car had already hit 100k mi and was 10 years old so it was time to change it. I would change the tensioner every 100k mi or 10 years, whatever comes first. Tensioners are cheap, engines are expensive.
mine is now 20 years old and 275k kms probably time to do it ! o-o@@ChavezDIY
how did you get the tensioner to go back in? I can't seen to get the new or old one back in
The piston needs to be compressed and locked in place in order to fit. Compress the piston and stick a push pin into the orange hole to lock it into place. After you get TCT in, you release push pin and the piston pops out.
When I purchased my TCT, it already came compressed with the push pin locked into place so I never released it until I had it in the engine.
Miguel Chavez not even the original one goes back in and even when I compress the piston. I was just wondering if there was a trick to putting it back in
I did notice that when I installed the new TCT that I bought from the dealer, the piston seemed to have been pushed in farther than I could compress the old one with my hands. It shot out with some good pressure when I released the lock.
Try to compress the original one with a vise and see if you can press it in farther than you can with your hands.
@miguel chavez great video. I'm planning to do the same with my 02 Rsx. Question, how did you maintain the tension while the TCT is out while you replace it with the new one? Im afraid i might move the chain and mess the timing when i remove the old TCT. Thanks
When it is out for replacement, you don't have to worry about maintaining tension or messing with timing. There's not enough slack in there to mess with the timing. After you put in the new tensioner and pull out the locking pin, the piston in the tensioner will shoot forward putting tension on your chain. I suppose if you pull out the tensioner and start your car without a tensioner you might mess with the timing, haha.
Miguel Chavez dang dude this was just a nightmare. The old TCT got stuck and was a pain to remove. Eventually when i got it off the chain jumped timing. Had to call a mobile mechanic to help me with this hole i got into. Question for you, when you replaced the TCT how many clicks did you do when you released the tension?
Did you grain the Oil before doing this?
I changed the oil and filter while doing this job, kill two birds with one stone. It's not necessary to drain the oil because the elevation of the access to the timing chain tensioner is above the oil pan where most of the oil sits when the engine is off.
Oh ok cause changing this part is my next move on finding out what's causing my Auto tensioner to Rattle, i read of this Forum this guy wrote with the same issue i'm having that this was the fix so fingers cross it works.
Great video, I have an 06 TSX that is due for belt tensioner change as a preventive maintenance...Did any oil come out when you opened the tensioner covering plate?
Thanks, I made the video because there's a lack of videos on this for the TSX. The instructions listed at the end of the video are taken from the oem service manual. Just a few drops of oil came out cause most of the oil lies down in the oil pan when the engine is off. I removed the serpentine belt from the crank pulley as a precaution to prevent any oil spilling on it. Youll need a small pry bar or flat head screwdriver to pry off the cover plate as the hondabond holds it in pretty good.
I agreed! There should be more instructions on how to fix our cars! Honestly I still have no idea where the tensioner is located in the car :( is it behind the right front tire?
Yes, you have to remove the front passenger tire, then remove the splash shield that covers the access to the engine. The tensioner is located to the top left of the crank pulley. It was easy for me because i no longer have any splash shields, they ripped off after lowering the car and scraping them to death, haha.
"my tsx is original" said no one ever lol
Just like you, I've recently learned to fix the car the most I can. Replacing the chain tensioner will so far be the most difficult job (I think so) I've ever done on the car! So turn the crankshaft to compress the old tensioner, insert a pin into the hole(s) (I only see one, the HELM manual says there're holes???) take it out. Then compress the new tensioner, put it in place, remove the pin that hold it compressed, seal the tensioner door with honda bond and wait for 3-4 hours to start the engine (for the seals to dry up?). That's my understanding of the process. Did I miss anything?
New rsx. Can this be done with the engine in the car?
I don't see why not, RSX uses a K-series engine. RSX uses the K20 and TSX uses the K24.
You did a whole video on looking at a tensioner and a ratchet
Yes, correct, but the information is still relevant. This was my first time replacing the TCT and I had no intentions of making a video until I reflected on the experience when I was done. I even listed the instructions verbatim from the OEM manual in the video. That's why I labeled the video "replacement tips". If I have the opportunity I will film the full procedure but that hasn't come up yet.
buen video me suscribi a tu canal, tengo una pregunta, cuando remplasaste el tensor y puso el nuevo, como hace para darle la tension correcta a la banda de tiempo, o solo la pone y da buelta el dado 19 en contra del reloj?
gracias. al fin del video at 5:07 estan las instrucciones. Antes de sacar el tensor viejo, le das buelta contra del reloj al dado 19 para poder meter el pin en el candado naranjado. Luego le das buelta con el reloj al dado 19 para darle tension a la banda de tiempo, y ya quitas los tornillos del tensor y sacas el tensor viejo. Cuando pones el nuevo tensor, lo metes, le pones los tornillos, sacas el pin y solo le va poner tension a la band de tiempo.
Miguel Chavez muchas gracias por responder, es mucha ayuda su video y mas por la explicacion en español. trabajare en mi 07 tsx con la confianza de su buena explicacion amigo, gracias!!
Miguel Chavez disculpa tengo otra pregunta mas,..para mover el crankshaft o la polea cuando estas sacando el tensor viejo o poniendo el nuevo es necesario poner la palanca de velocidad en Neutral para que se mueva con mas facilidad o no es necesario? 🤔
No es necesario mover la palanca de velocidad. Lo mas dificil de este trabajo es sacar y poner de regreso los tornillos del cover plate porque no tienes mucho espacio, pero todo con calma.
Miguel Chavez gracias de nuevo un saludo.
My car would only rev the 3 grand then I sound like all the valves are open please help me
tae FU did you change your tensioner? Check for diagnostic trouble codes with a scanner. You can also reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery terminals.
retrace your steps, double check everything you touched, put everything back the way it was and ensure all connectors are in place.
DO NOT replace the timing chain tensioner without maintaining tension on the exhaust side chain guide. Failing to do so could cause the chain to hop a link. Also, if the piston of the tensioner is extended by 13.5mm, then the chain needs to be replaced.
Thanks for the feedback. Are your comments referring to when you have the timing chain engine cover off the car?
The exhaust side of the timing chain can be accessed if the cylinder head cover is removed. I would never pull off my tensioner without maintaining tension on the exhaust side of the chain . Removing the tensioner creates slack in the chain, and will most likely throw the timing. Camshaft locking pins and a pry bar on the chain guide should be adequate to hold the chain in place. Simply popping off the access panel and swapping the tensioner is asking for it.
I have the OEM service manual and it mentions nothing about maintaining tension on the exhaust side chain guide by removing the valve cover. The timing chain sits on the teeth of the cam gears at the top of the engine and attached to the crank gear at the bottom. Simply releasing tension on the chain (guides) via tensioner is not going to throw the timing off. If the chain is worn enough that changing the tensioner throws off timing then that's a problem that needs to be repaired, not a maintenance item. If your problem is that serious, you might as well look at replacing the chain guides too.
I'm just saying that as a precaution, it makes sense to put tension on the chain prior to removing the tensioner. If the exhaust side chain guide moves at all during the replacement, gravity could cause the chain to slip on the crankshaft gear. And since there is no way to determine how far the tensioner is engaged without removing it, it only makes sense to be careful. I've read the FSM guide thoroughly and disagree with the procedure. There is nothing to keep the exhaust side guide from moving after the tensioner is removed. It's an impact engine. I'd say it's worth the extra step to avoid potentially having to reset the chain and replace damaged valves.
ruclips.net/video/i-lTdPjnZA4/видео.html you can see how he has a partner hold the guide while he installs the tensioner. Case closed.
Dang I have over 300k miles on my K24....finally changing it...I ended up taking off the entire cover to inspect everything...one of those "well since I'm in there"...all started from a small job leading to a much larger one
It's good to hear your K24 is lasting 300k mi! It's hard to keep track of every single maintenance item a car needs unless you do a lot of research. I get tired of keeping track of all the maintenance a combustion engine needs, I can't wait to go electric in the future. Was it difficult to remove the entire cover? Sometimes a small job does lead to a bigger one. You think, "this will be quick" LOL.
You forgot to tell people to keep tension on the belt, I didn’t when I followed this and now I can’t get the tensioner back in
You may need to compress the piston on the new TCT more to be able to fit it in. You can use a vise to compress the piston or some channel lock pliers.
Miguel Chavez okay UPDATE after a painful 30 minutes. I found out that you can hold the tooth on top of the little compressor and press the rod down even more then factory, I did this and then loosen it 3 clicks so you can put the pin in the hole. Line the really compressed unit back in where the head of the rod meets the little sitting area on the timing guard and then hold it in place and hit it when a flat head or mallet and it will clip in place, it’ll be a really tight fit but this was the only way I was able to get it back in.
@@Andre_1901 Thanks for the update on that. I'm sorry I wasn't able to film me doing the replacement. At the time I got lucky and didn't need to compress the piston further. I will pin your comment so it shows up at the top when people view the video.
Miguel Chavez thanks for the video it helped a lot, originally I was upset because I thought the timing had skipped. But Honda made a safety feature to where it won’t skip when removing the tensioner. You mentioned that in earlier comments. Thank you
@@Andre_1901 Its pretty scary working on anything that messes with the timing chain. Even I was sweating it the whole time when I did this, haha. Cheers.
So you didn't replace the chain... why? :) they say that it will stretch with time
No, I did not replace the chain as this is a preventive maintenance item and not a repair. I supposed if you're having engine problems along with a check engine light then a change of a chain might be the repair. Chains are known to last a long time. Chains are also known to stretch like you mentioned, some people say they don't stretch but rather the links get worn. Its a good question, I think I would ask, when do you need to change the chain? Changing the chain is not a maintenance item though, its not listed in the OEM service manual. Ill take a peek at the manual and see when it does recommend to change the chain (as a repair item).
Okay interesting. My check engine light is on atm and I was abit worried because my dad's engine (K24) broke with 186.000 miles on the same chain and tensioner. sad, but that proves that you're right about the chain lasts long. Was it a hard job to change the tensioner? i'm not a mechanic, but I know how to change basic stuff like brakes, suspension etc.
Sorry to hear about your dad's engine, that sucks. If your CEL is on, scan the car through OBD2 to see what codes you get. On amazon there are plenty, I have two scanners, this cheap one gets the job done www.amazon.com/Oxgord-Scanner-Engine-Diagnostics-Direct/dp/B011Q18D14/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1475093120&sr=1-3&keywords=obd2+scanner all the Autel ones are great too.
Got one! It says the upper lambda sensor :) so guess im good (Y) Was it a hard job to change the tensioner? i'm not a mechanic, but I know how to change basic stuff like brakes, suspension etc.
I'm not a mechanic either, but cars are important in our lives so I've learned stuff here n there and pretty much do the same basic stuff that you do (brakes, suspension, fluid changes). When it comes to oil changes, I do either every 6 months or 5k mi (whatever comes first) I always use Mobil1 Synthetic High Mileage. The tensioner job wasn't hard to do, but the hondabond takes 3hrs to cure and you CANT turn on your car in that time so give yourself plenty of time.
I have a 2002 jdm rhd accord cl7 automatic with k20z2 engine with 170’000 km and the engine starts tickling noise and i knew it was timing chain tensioner..
Glad you are on top of finding the sources of the problem on that engine. The timing chain tensioner is relatively easy to replace compared to let's say a timing belt. I can't believe Honda/Acura uses a timing belt on the V6's. I was looking into buying an Acura RDX in the future and was bummed to find they use a timing belt, not a chain. Only the older RDX's with the 4 cylinder turbo engines have a timing chain.
Miguel Chavez buy the 2020 rdx 2.0turbo 10 speed automatic, that thing shifts fast and awd man!! I love it so much
Gay
I don't think a repair vid is a good place to state your sexual orientation. Thanks for coming out though!