The MOST overlooked part of HVAC
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- Опубликовано: 23 мар 2023
- Matt shows us how one addition to our HVAC systems can add comfort year round as well as save us on energy costs. It can even improve the air quality of our homes and reduce mold. Watch to learn how to supercharge your HVAC system!
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Hey Matt, just a note that as a subscriber to your build show network and the weekly video's put out....please let Jake and Steve know that the vids they do are not only for Contractors or builders...but for us home owners that are looking to hire sub contractors to help with DIY"er projects that are just too big to do alone, or you need specialized sub contractors to help....like an ICF basement...or 24 OC framing for a passive home inspired addition. I totally appreciate learning about what seems to be the "behind the scenes" going ons within the building industry of General contractors and sub contractors...as well as what we should be looking for when interviewing a contractor or subcontractor....Thank you so much to you all for your build show network video's to help us along. 🙏 🇨🇦
Or for someone who is wanting to have a comfortable, and energy efficient house built. Being able to speak enough of the language to your architect, engineer and builder should help everyone be on the same page.
My house on Cape Cod was always very humid. I put in a portable dehumidifier in the basement and ran it 24/7. The first few days I had to clear the icing out of the condenser until the humidity got low enough to stop icing up. I also had to run a hose direct to drain to avoid the constant emptying of the catch basin. My basement man-cave was very comfy afterwards.
As an aside, I was an engineer at a radar site on the Cape. Our industrial walk-in dehumidifier was like walking into a heavy rainstorm!
I am not sure that Risinger understands his cost numbers in many of his videos. He has two Broan dehumidifiers in this house drawing roughly 5.5 amps each - that's nearly as much as an AC unit. My Trane two-stage AC 5-Ton unit draws 19 amps running full speed, but most of the time it drops down to around 11 - 12 amps when it runs at its second stage. That is about the same as a 3-Ton unit. In the summer here in AZ my AC bill can easily get to $150.00, and it's only that low because my house is very well insulated. So think about it. If you are running two Broan dehumidifiers in your home that are drawing 11 amps of power, it's probably going to cost over a $100.00 a month in electricity. It will probably be more because in AZ we have very low electric power costs. That's not cheap.
And consider this, these dehumidifiers also require filters that need to be changed - probably at least every three months. These proprietary filters can be very expensive, but let's say they are just $20 each. That another $220.00 a year that you will be spending on air filters.
So let's add this all up. Let's say your two dehumidifiers cost $125.00 a month in electricity to run. So 12 x $125.00 = $1,500 per year. Now add the $220.00 per year for filters to that cost and you get $1720.00 a year JUST for dehumidifiers. That's a lot of money.
There's nothing wrong with Risinger's recommendation to install dehumidifiers in a home, and I am sure he is correct that in humid locations, they produce much better air quality. I have had some clients tell me that in very humid climates a whole house dehumidifier is mandatory. In those cases, it may be worth !720.00 a year to protect the interior of the home from excessive humidity. But in many climates, most homes do very well without a whole house dehumidifier. Further, if you run your AC during the summer, it acts as a dehumidifier to a limited degree.
In most cases, a whole house dehumidifier probably isn't necessary. Check with your local HVAC contractor to see what they recommend, and do some research on the internet.
To be "ideal" i need a dehumidifier and a humidifier. Indoor humidity gets to upper 60% low 70% in the summer and i saw 24% this last winter.
As a former GC in California and a home inspector for 30 years I find the majority of HVAC contractors don’t have the training or work ethic to install such a complex system. The lack care and attention resulting in multiple workmanship issues is disturbing to say the least. The prices have gone through the roof and workmanship has cratered.
It’s great! My shed has been completed and it turned out nice looking and sturdy and it is way better than the sheds that many of my neighbors had put up. Of course, I'm pleased with the outcome and this Ryan’s ruclips.net/user/postUgkxGZedDTcDfgD7fG_uU4esfx_EgxzlY2_1 Plans was extremely useful to me as a guide.
I’m from the central texas area and we use the same set up for our new construction, multiple ervs, dehums, inverter heat pumps, oversized media filters, metal ductwork and make up air systems. I will tell you very few people can afford what we offer, not your average run of the mill type jobs or builders will see the advantage. I install everything as stand alone systems with its own configuration so I don’t need any kind of isolation dampers.
We also utilize small dehumidifiers and install them on the inlet side of ervs to dehumidify the outside air before coming into the erv cell. Ervs are only at best 30% efficient at dehumidifying before entering home, all depends on humidity level inside the home that’s being “mixed” or “recovered”. We like that erv/dehum combo set up when we have large master baths, utility rooms with multiple washers and or freezers/fridges and pantry’s with sinks and freezers/fridges all set with humidity sensors to run independent. Need to be careful with dehumidifiers as they will increase the latent load on a structure, do your due diligence don’t just throw it in or “add” it to your duct system.
Good information. Thanks Matt
Love it! ❤. Well done.
Awesome video Matt, very informative! Never understood why the dehu is the first to go on proposals… people would rather put $$$ on luxury bathtubs that never get used but skimp on the lungs of their homes…
I have zero issues with Matt's presentation and everything he mentions from a technical perspective is accurate. I am just fascinated with our current obsession with higher levels of comfort when put together with our current obsession with higher levels of energy efficiency. These two obsessions contradict each other. And to think that running another high power appliance inside your house is going to save money, what can I say, that's a sales pitch if I ever saw one.
In the hot humid south, it will save you from having to have mold remediation done on your house. I have a friend that is going through this now. 3 months living in a rental to have all the drywall ripped out of the house and remediated.
You don't need one. Others may choose accordingly, and Matt has explained things very clearly.
@halldon1 we had to move out for two years when our home had molding it. Builder took care of all cost.
Matt, two questions:
1. Do you recommend dehumidifiers for ALL climates? For example, North vs South?
2. What do you recommend for older homes, where the heat/AC plans are usually in the basement?
I'm in MN and trying to ADD humidity to my super dry house.
I live in Southern California. Too much indoor humidity is an issue for about 2 - 3 months in winter. Hard to justify the expenditure of a permanently mounted unit, so I may just get a portable unit.
Great info and I agree completely with you.
1. I love seeing Broan (and other high quality yet affordable brands) on the channel again.
2. If someone would invent a full integrated HVAC+D+makeup-air system it would sell like hot cakes!!!
Highly agree! Just 1 system to rule them all ;).
It may make sense to consider using a commercial rooftop unit. Then you can get an ERV, economizer, and dehumidification in one package. Also controls options become a lot more extensive.
They exist for commercial. When resi-electricians learn what 3-phase is, you might even see one!
What you're talking about would be a Package unit with economizer, ERV, Powered Exhaust, and Reheat coil, as well as low ambient controls *and,* if you're feeling fancy, modulating heat/cool.
Is there a youtube video or a website I can go to that gives a good overview? I’m not oppressed to spending $40k on HVAC if it’s a great system that’s serviceable.
Check out Build Equinox & their Cerv system. I’m planning my forever home on the MS Gulf coast…very hot & humid conditions. My wife has asthma so indoor air quality, comfort and efficiency are must haves. I Will be using external insulation and closed cell SF so fresh air and dehumidification are absolutely necessary and in fact my primary concern.
I'm with some of the other commenters. In the midwest, a bigger need may be to retrofit a humidifier for the winter. Next to my bed is a small fill-almost-daily model so I can sleep comfortably through the night while the furnace is blowing out desert-dry air.
great video!
Damn. That’s a clean and organized attic
That Broan Dehum is a rebadged Santa Fe Dehum - they have very good build quality.
Lots of companies rebrand those Thermastor dehumidifiers. They are the best in my opinion. I have a “Trane”, but really a Sante Fe Ultra 70. We use ours for 24/7 fresh air with the fan in the unit always on and the compressor kicks on when the house needs dehumidified. It is able to do the job quite well for 2000 sq ft!
"This video is made for you builders"
Me a software engineer: "yup, I feel it"
Here's a shocker. Some people live in an arid climate. I would love to see you make videos for those homes that average 30% humidity year round.
I have a new build and installed a Zehnder erv unit based on your recommendation.
I also put a FanTech make up air for my kitchen hood.
I did not put a dehumidifier. I'm in South Texas. I am concerned about humidity now since seeing this episode. I was under the impression the Zehnder would help with that.
Comfort is king! Therefor (and the rest of the environment) I hope the Build Show will pay more attention to bio based products in the future. Building with wood is already a great thing and a shame that it's not more common in Central Europe where I live.
Would have been nice to hear a price guesstimate for these. I’m sure there are a 100 reasons to get one but at the end of the day the most important factor is money.
There's the initial cost, maintenence cost, and operating cost. If they put all of that out there then people would rather just pop a hole in a wall for fresh air and a window ac
The cost is reasonable. Had one installed in our house for about 1,600. It's really nice to have and I now notice when other homes don't have one.
@@ss-fc2fh $1600 includes the equipment and installation cost? Seems almost to cheap 😂😂
@@ykciR the box is probably like 20 in scrap parts and takes 30 minutes to screw on some pipes.
If you have to ask....
I live at the New Jersey shore. Many of my neighbor's close down and winterize their homes. I can't tell you how many houses I see in the spring with new looking mattresses at the curb!
Almost ever house we do the hvac on we add a dehu. Right now we have 1000 pints of dehu and 10 ervs in it
Tesla has been talking about applying some of its octovalve creating engineering department to the home space for years. It's about time to have a integrated heat pump, and dehumidifier, possibly with humidifier. I would argue that not having high enough humidity in the winter is a problem. I have family that get daily nose bleeds when a humidity is low in the winter, in the south. A constant humidity is great for both the house, and the people that live in it.
Idea for a video: From start to finish, converting a standard Texas attic into a conditioned space. Who do you talk to first? Do you need an engineer to design an insulated roof? Interior vs Exterior insulation. Mechanicals. What to do inside with the existing insulation. Floor decking, etc.
Great video , at what dew point do you aim for in your house ?
I'd love to hear you discuss how things might change with a three or four storey property that you might see in a more compact city. Here in Toronto, you'd be hard pressed to find a bungalow and every property has a basement.
Do you have recommendations for a whole home humidifier? I live in Las Vegas where it is regularly 10-20% humidity inside. Very very dry air.
Well stated, Matt. Dry is comfortable, damp is not. And when you need a sweater in the summer, it's because it's too dang cold inside. A stand-alone DH unit solves the problem. Raise the t-stat to 78F, drop the dehumidistat to 45% RH...comfort returns, energy costs go down and mold is held at bay.
So....Who/What Channel is the Matt equivalent for focusing on those of us who live in cold climates?
I’m a Building Scientist in Florida and I’ve been debating with HVAC contractors for years about this. When they run a fresh air intake, some don’t use any conditioning for that air while others try to use ERV. I always explain that the unit can’t handle the moisture load.
Hey Matt, can you please explain the ideal system setup with diagrams. What is the ideal way to connect the AC, ERV / HRV and Dehumidifier up? Should they run independently of each other or should they all feed into each other one way or another?
I’d think of you have the space for ducts, separate systems are going to be simpler to engineer and easier to replace equipment when things break
With an air handler that has the cold side before the hot side in the air stream and both connected to the same AC unit you could use the air handler as a dehumidifier without adding another unit. It should require only a few valves and some extra piping to make one unit much more useful.
Also takes fewer BTUs to heat and cool lower humidity air.
If you run this T'd into your existing supply and return duct work and it's running the same time as your air handler are the pressure issues?
Could you do a review of a Humidifier for those of us in the north? (we get as low as 10% in the middle of winter, and as you can image... thats shocking).
I'd want a humidistat in the air steam being pulled in from outside by the ERV or HRV.. Only having one one monitoring humidity from the thermostat could result in the dehumidifier getting behind. You might also need more humid in arid climates.
I know you don't cover retrofits, but do you have any respected sources for installing "D" in an existing home?
Do they make whole house humidifiers? Right now I have 16% humidity in my house. Outside it is 23% right now.
So does your humidifier piggyback on other systems ducting or does it have its own ducting?
My understanding, from watching Matt and others like him, is that it's patched into the return ducting of the homes HVAC passes through the dehumidifier and then is patched into the distribution side of the HVAC .
Why are they all on separate ducting though? Why are they not all ducted in line with each other? It seems like pulling in humid air, ducting it throughout the house then having to pull it back with another system to dehumidify it, duct it back into the house, then duct it back again to condition it and finally duct it into the house a third time..... is just incredibly inefficient. Would it not make more sense to have the dehumidifier downstream of the ERV and the heat pump down stream of the dehumidifier?
With the fresh air exchange, does it filter out pesticides? Currently I have to keep everything off when my neighbors have their yards treated. There have been studies that show those pesticides remain in the ambient air for many hours after application. I discovered this after researching because I become ill every time they have their yards treated.
I've got a 1 story 3500 sq ft house in NE FL and would like to replace my hvac. both my units are electric single stage heat pumps one is 4 ton and other is 2 ton. wanting to maybe go with a 2 stage that has a humidistat built in so that it acts as a dehumidifier. Why would I need/want a dehumidifier installed in my attic if my hvac already has the ability to remove the humidity?
Random question, why is there no insulation in this attic? I love Matt's videos and learning a lot of important information.
it's either getting spray foamed, or has an externally insulated roof deck.
So would this be any good for a 1972 home that is attic vented? (Houston, TX) Yeah we're prolly more leaky than we want, but I'm working on that...
What do you think about dehumidifier in places like Vegas or California?
If you're in a dry climate, installing one would do you no good.
It's often cheaper and more efficient to get multi stage equipment. It will dehumidify better than a dehumidifier. I'm a contractor here in the Texas coast usually 80-90% humidity. I know this for a fact and I'm not trying to sell you anything.
Awesome content - completely irrelevant in the Sedona Desert. The maximum relative humidity in the high desert is only 63%, and that's only during July, our monsoon season. During monsoons, I set out Bentonite clay desiccant packets. Cheap and no engineering required.
Are you set an alarm office chair in your mechanical room?
Do those units also humidify?
In the NW, our problems were solved from buying a variable speed AC. A chunk more money, but worth the comfort. Less switching between furnace and AC a few cycles to force the humidity out. I would only buy a normal compressor if that was all I could afford.
Am a bit surprised you are Abel to get total comfort with just an inverse-you must have long swing seasons in your area. Then again i easy to balance your heating and cooling loads. In places like the mid Atlantic, we often are torn between sizing correctly for cooling vs heating load. Or heating load is typically a bit longer longer yet we have real humid days and large Tru k seasons. Though newer units can ramp down to 25% rated capacity, we still encounter many days whe. The ac stops and we are stuck with humidity as we can’t underside the unit and freeze in winter.
Yes, Inverter AC that has variable speed is more or less The global standard now, the old on/off systems is also very inefficient compared to the new ‘inverter systems’.
For those who want both, are there units that can dehumidify and humidify respectively in one box?
Unfortunately no. They work so differently it's be like an oven and fridge in one box.
@@whitneyowen8551 I see, makes sense. Thanks.
What part of PA? I'm from Allentown
I thought about adding a dehumidifier to my house, but ended up not doing it. Turns out, running my AC normally in my house keeps the humidity at 55% in the summer. So I guess I didn’t need it?
Kind of.
With a dehum, you generally will feel more comfortable at a higher temp. Like Matt said he keeps his on 74-75. That's because the humidity is at 45.
So, if he keeps it on 75, and it runs 10-20 minutes an hour, that'll save money overall since the HVAC uses a lot more power to run.
I keep telling you, get a carrier air handler/furnace&coil and a honeywell TH8000, hook up the “DEHUM” terminal and your AC unit is now a dehumidifier during cooling. BAM, just saved you $5000
I'm sure some climates in the US needs dehumidifiers. Not in Central Indiana. Winter here our house moisture, without a humidifier, is in the high 20's to low 30's. Nose bleeds, dry mouth, sometimes colds result due to low humidity. It can rise if the outdoor humidity is above 80%. Summer time we will run a dehumidifier in the basement to help the A/C. Not needed year round.
These units can be shut down when not used (just like your basement unit) The main advantage of a whole house dehumidifier is it get's patched into your HVAC system, evenly dehumidifying the whole house.
Hi Matt, what do I need in SanJose CA for a 3400 sq. ft Two story house?
What do they cost?
Don't need one of those in Phoenix! We actually run a small humidifier in our bedroom when we sleep. Hate waking up with a dry mouth.
This should def be the standard, and the V should actually be taken seriously more than it is... So many builds seem to skip the ERV/HRV and I don't understand why.
HVACD should be the standard along with a minimum of flash & bat insulation to seal the house.
So what exactly is the ERV for? Looks to me Broan sells a device with caveats and then they sell you another device to fix them. Sneaky.
The most important area of a two story house to run a de-humidifier would be the upstairs, since humid air is lighter than dry air (molecular weight?) and it rises. I put a 'whole house' dehumidifier in-line with my upstairs A/C unit, and it keeps the upstairs very comfortable with the thermostat in the mid-70's. The downstairs, set at the same temp with no dehumidifier feels comfortable, and never seems humid (the upstairs did feel that way until we installed the dehumidifier). Our house is a mid-90's construction, so not particularly well sealed.
If I send you a 3/4” cap, will you please install it on that dehumidifier. That tape cap is killing me.
I need humidity lol. Colorados high desert is to dry
Separate dehumidification is the way to go. To meet the government’s efficiency standards, the heat pump/AC indoor coils were upsized which means they cool quicikly but then dont dehumidify well. The mfrs have schemes of lower fan speeds for a time, etc. but they can’t run long or they blow their SEER ratings. Old systems with cap tubes ran long just getting inefficient when the bubble legnth changed to adapt. New inverter/EEV systems can replicate this but a dedicated dehumidifier separated from the cooling is best. And pulling dry air over the cooling coils means less of the cooling capability is used up on latent heat absorbtion to dry the air.
so are you saying you should get a separate dehumidifier just so your 2 stage hvac system won't waste elec running on low all day long trying to remove the humidity w/just the humidistat? i thought that was the whole reason to get a 2 stage w/humidistat so that it could run on low most the time thereby giving you air circ and lowering the humidity. or, are you saying go with a dehumidifier and a 2 stage w/out a humidistat?
@@CTChipmunk
2 stage heat pump/AC systems don't work that way. I made that mistake when I bought mine 9 years ago. The don't run that much longer. They do run at about 80% with the 100% only kicking in for the extremes. But they don't dehumidify any better. That can be handled by using the lower CFM settings which is used in the South. But still the cycling is too which for good dehumidification high efficiency systems. Plus the lower CFM kills the actual efficiency of the system while passing on the cost to homeowners.
Things are different for the real fully variable inverter systems, but mfrs manipulate their descriptions so you have to look inside to verify and not trust the advertising. Even with all the parts, you have to look into whether they are programmed to work as fully variable fan, compressors and expansion valve control
Yes, and keeps the humidity out of furniture fabric that we sit on and touch
Can you put nitrogen air in the house?
Shouldn't you state energy usage in Watts? 5.1 Amps at 110 volts or 220 volts? big difference in energy usage!
If anything, you're really making the case for why package units should be more common in residential. Package units are available with all these extras built right in.
Controversial in Australia
Room humidity, leading to surface moulds and the cause of respiratory tract infections.
🌏🇭🇲
how is using a dehumidifier to remove humidity to prevent that issue controversial???
Curious to get everyone’s thoughts on this. I’m in north Texas and live in a fairly new home - built in 2012. On the coldest winter days, we have to use small humidifiers in our bedrooms because the humidity gets below 30 and we’ll get sore throats in the morning. I’m thinking for maybe 3-4 months out of the year a dehumidifier would be of no use to me.
At those times of year, you can just shut it down, won't affect the rest of your heating system at all if you do.
I had a humidifier installed on my new furnace / main floor - existing home..same area/ north Texas. Gas furnace just dries us out too much in winter. Not unusual to see outside humidity in teens in winter months. Had a difficult time convincing my hvac contractor that I needed it. Guess if I had more money to burn a dehumidifier would make sense for a few months also
Where's the link in the description for that unit?
Also, great work. It'd be nice if you started putting key words in your video description. When I come back and search RUclips for 'dehumidifier', your video will NOT show up, there is no mention of dehumidifier anywhere in the title or video description. I've run into this with other videos you have as well, written key terms in the description would be great help.
😂😂
The volume on this video is low.
I have this problem in my one year old, two story, 2950 square foot home that was spec’d with only one AC unit in Texas.
Anytime it rains, especially in the Spring or Fall, humidity will immediately sky rocket above 60% and will not drop substantially until humidity drops outside.
The HVAC company has tried to tune our system to dehumidify better, but nothing seems to help.
How difficult and expensive is it to add a whole home dehumidifier and air filtration to the current system?
Any companies you’d recommend in Dallas?
Matt, I'm sorry you live in Texas and need a dehumidifier. Where I live, I don't need one.
Plus D, ha. I got the joke. 😅
Definitely a sausage party on this channel. 😅
@@mitchdenner9743 lolol
My newest heat pump came with a dehumidifier built into it. There is no reason why every system doesn't come with this
Which brand and model? Pls share.
It's a nice idea to have but it costs more.. not everyone wants it and if you include it in every major unit then you are forcing them to pay for something they don't want.
@@MattFerguson26 Bryant and Carrier (they are the same brand, Bryant cost less) I have Model number FV4CNF003 which is a Carrier because the installer could not get a Bryant.
Also get the Digital Thermometer, it tell your the humidity in there house and it is way more comfortable. I had replaced by 30 year old unit with this new I'm really glad I did.
I live in the Mid-Atlantic north of Baltimore and the summers here are like living in a dryer vent. The other thing is I know for a fact it dropped my electric bill 20%
@@Josh.1234 if you live in the part of the country I do which is north of Baltimore and the summers here are like living in an dryer vent, you will notice how much more comfortable our house in when you come inside and and actually have the AC thermostat set to a higher temp. If you're going to get a new unit, which is way more efficient it makes your house way more comfortable it's worth the few extra bucks over the lifetime of the unit
@@ton73z28 yeah idk, I live and grew up in Virginia and can see the advantage but honestly our HVAC growing up was fine without it.
Building a house, every little addon every sub offers adds up at the end..
D? i need H.
Dude,
Live out in the desert in Arizona, humidity is usually around 14 to 15%.
I will pass.... lol
- The retired accountant
Must be nice.
If a single-family home needs such an over-the-top $1-200,000 system to be livable, then there is something fundamentally wrong with the construction of the home, unless it's built in plastic. The system costs the tip of a jet fighter alone to operate. Not particularly environmentally friendly.
Regardless of the quality of the home built (assuming all are to code) if your HVAC is for $hit, so is your comfort level. Adding a whole home dehumidifier to even the most basic ducted system will greatly improve the quality of your comfort while not in really increasing your power consumption. The lower your homes humidity is inside, the cooler you'll feel, so you can save money (or even it out) by raising the temp you cool your house down to.
Indoor plants have trouble adapting to outdoors but clearly people are nothing like plants.
Looks like your crew has a Pookie monster. The radiant barrier on the ductwork doesn't work very well when covered with pookie. Doesn't look like a conditioned attic.
I think in a previous episode that featured this build they mentioned the mechanical rooms would be conditioned, so they could get away with the non-metal ductwork.
Yup it a conditioned attic, also they rarely do fiberglass, but this was “budget” system.
10%
How do I add humidity while not creating mold.
Every humidifier I've added to the HVAC creates mold on the humidifier. It needs constant attention and cleaning.
This is just to keep the humidity at 40%
I live in Minnesota, so for a good 6 months I need additional humidity. I didn't want to install one of those old school April Air humidifiers to the HVAC ductwork. Lots of wasted water, too much of a chance to add too much humidity to the relatively inefficient 1973 home I have. Look into getting a Venta Airwasher humidifier. They are portable units that require you to manually refill . Not a n issue, especially if you already have a water softener. It humidifiers while also removing particulates out the air in your home. I have 2 units, one on each floor & I can easily keep it at 40% throughout the whole house. (Basement, first and second)
@@ericscott3997
Yeah, I have a small humidifier that I currently use. So small I need to refill it daily. But that let's me clean it daily. So it's a chore. But It's better than having mold/bacteria put into the air.
I was hoping for a low maintenance long term solution. I tried filtering water, I've tried multiple humidifiers, I even tried adding a little bleach to the water. Nothing real works.
Cleaning it every time is the only solution I've found.
@@jckcpd4539
Yeah, I have UV light right after the A/C coil. It doesn't kill everything.
It's an issue cause the crappy zip has a 1% permeability
I'm out. I'm from Colorado 😉
Definitely don't need one of these here! Current humidity in the house is 25%, and basically never goes above 40%.
Bro, set the humidity between 40 and 60 why would you ever said it over 50% 60% you’re already having moisture problems and it’s very uncomfortable
Why don't you use an electrostatic air cleaner
Electrostatic air purifiers create ozone as a byproduct, which is very harmful to human health. I recommend googling "What are ionizers and other ozone generating air cleaners? EPA" and reading that article to start. (I would post a link but it would get flagged as spam)
Ozone is a byproduct of electrostatic air cleaners. Today's houses are airtight, keeping that ozone inside. Look up the health effects of ozone on long term health.
Can it take an on/off signal from a normal thermostat with humidity control. Every room in my house is zone with its own supply and return and it’s own thermostat connected to a zone board and dampers for every room on both the supply and return.
Sound level is way way low.
Video that is extremely poorly done. Too many inaccuracies to count. Booooooii
Isn’t the point of an ERV to control humidity as opposed to an HRV?