Lovely. I usually do single shot butterfly macro but you have inspired me to try in-camera focus stacking with my recently purchased OM-1 Mk2 and 90mm pro. One trick I have used is to hold the camera with both hands with one hand around a walking pole, sliding the camera down to the required level - greater stability without the hassle of a tripod or mono pod. Your photos are great!
Excellent Video Roger, I use the 60mm with a 250 Raynox Lens and the Olympus Twin Flash. With the flash I can go up to F16 to get a Black background, which makes the Image pop out!!!! Some people don’t like it , but if I want natural blurred back ground I drop the F number. I have tried stacking had some success but as you stated if the insect moves it corrupts the final image. I have watched your videos a lot and gained a lot of knowledge, thanks again Graham Cox.
Thanks for the kind comment Graham, and I am glad you enjoy my videos. The 60mm is a great lens, although a month or so aga I treated myself to the 90mm, which is even better. As you say, black backgrounds can produce stricking images whcih really make the subject `pop` but I prefer a more natural looking background, so only use my twin flash as a fill in. Once again, thanks for the kind comment.
Thanks for the kind comment. Glad you enjoyed it. As you so righhtly say, its mad that its possible to focus stack hand held with todays cameras. 15 years ago it would have been the stuff of dreams.
Nicely explained Roger. Very enjoyable video. I’ve not done much in the way of macro photography. I’ve decided to treat myself to a used E-M1mkiii and 60mm macro lens. Dipping my toes in the water, so to speak.
Thank you for the clear information, great demonstration and great pictures. By far the best video I've seen on the 60mm macro lens so far. You've convinced me to shoot focus stacked pictures.
THanks. Glad you liked it. Whereas my videos are not the most professionally made videos you will find on RUclips, I do try to make make them as informative as possible.
This is absolutely fantastic., thank u kindly…. Just got my Om-1 & macro . I am trying to learn all this ., néw learning curve feels overwhelming. This video is so helpful!!! I appreciate it so much!!!
Well done Roger. Excellent video. Ive recently bought an EM 1 mark2 and having got the firmware up to date have had problems with focus stacking, because the settings mean nothing on their own. You have given me a starting point and as its a very wet day today I'll get out the orchids and practice. Will be like lockdown again. OM D systems should pay you to teach its products. I feel sure that the complexity of its products puts many people off, as it did me for many years. Thanks again
Cheers for the very kind comment Trevor, and I am glad you found the video helpful. The EM1mkII will produce excellent photo stacked images. I regularly used my EM1mkII for stacking. I agree they should pay me but they dont ! 😂
Gorgeous images Roger, I will be using your settings as a reference: Thanks a lot.. Where I live there is a constant wind/breeze, so focus stacking is not an easy option. I have decided to stop using the AF button for macro, in order to use my OM1 one handed and hold the offending leaf or stem steady.
Beautiful images and the blurred background makes it pop out. When you were shooting the focus stack from the side of the butterfly, what was you focus differential?
Thanks for the kind comment. Off the top of my head, I cannot remember. It will not show the differential in the metadata. Generlly speaking, if I am photographing sideways on and the wings are fold reasonably parallel to the body. , -a differential of 2 or 3 will be fine. I photographed a Popular Hawk moth a few weeks ago, and the wings on that were out, so a lot more depth of focus needed. On that occasion, I used a differntial of 6. It depends on the subject. Hope this helps.
Thank you Roger. Informative and well presented as always. Encouraged to give Macro a try with the same lens on my EM5iii. Will experiment using the tiny LM3 flash with a simple diffuser. Not sure if its refresh rate can cope with 8 sequential shots. The differential settings remain a bit of a mystery.
I have never used the flash for hand held stacking. As you say, the refresh rate may be a problem. It certainly works on a tripod. The little LM3 flash is a great little flash, and I prefer it to the other Olympus flashes.
Great video Roger. Another fantastic tutorial and one I definitely need to practice. Just moved to OM and have been playing with the stacking feature with some ok results. Going to give your settings and advice a go. 👍🏻
Another informative and helpful video Roger and like others who have commented here, I will make a note of your settings and use them when I get the opportunity - as a starting point if nothing else. Of course, finding your subject - location - is key to photographing any wildlife and you have certainly demonstrated that skill. Top stuff!
Thanks Alan. I always appreciate your comments. Deciding which differential /and or number of shots to use in a stack is a bit of trial and error. When I first bought the EM1X, I though great, I can now do 15 shots as opposed to the 8 on my old EM1mkII. Initially, I was quite dissapointed with the results because I was getting `halos` around the subject. This I found out was because I was setting the differential to high, and it was focusing `past` the subject. Just becaus it will do 15 shots in stack, you do not always need 15 shots. Often, 8 or 10 is quite sufficient.
Thanks Dave. Much appreciated. Most of the time I am shooting at IS0 1600, but when its bright, I will go down to ISO 800 or even as low as ISO 400. As I say in the video , I dont like going below 1/400th sec for hand holding, and prefer a much higher shutter speed if I can . The faster the shutter speed, the less chance of any camera movement between frames in the stack.
This was a wonderfully informative video Roger. I was always wondering if this were possible. I have done it a lot with smaller TG cameras with excellent results. Thanks a lot!
Thanks Dan. It does work well providing you do not fall bellow 1/400th second. Below that, its difficult to keep all the shots in register. For example if I was using 60th second or slower, I would need to put it on a tripod.
Hi Roger, perfect educational videos, unique in character and very beneficial in terms of demonstrating OM capabilities. I have related questions about the OM-5, which I'm thinking of as a macro camera for a super light setup, because I spend several hours in neck-breaking positions where every gram is noticeable. Can I ask for a comparison of the OM-5 with the OM1mkii, in terms of max. fps and range of shutter speeds, with automatic stacking? At the same time, what is the max. number of possible preset shots in a series? Please compare both. Also, what is the maximum number of flash shots for both when using onboard bracketing? I mean everything in sync with the flash and under ideal conditions, i.e. with a fast sync.flash with a full battery, at low ISO. This information is very hard to find online. Thank you very much in advance for your answer and for all the work you do, I really enjoy this form of education😊👍BR, Charlie
Thank you for the video Roger, it has been an interesting watch. I am a new OM-1 owner just getting used to its many functions and using it with the 12-100 lens until I can afford to add a macro. I just wanted to confirm with you that what I am finding in-camera and then confirmed in Lightroom is correct, namely, that the camera will store 8 RAW images (for instance) and then deliver a final compressed jpeg as a ninth image. Is there a means to make adjustments in-camera that will just give me the resultant jpeg, as the intervening RAW files are of no value. I returned home early from my last day out with around 1050 images on my memory card and downloading is taking a long time. I hope I have explained this well enough and apologise if there is anything obvious I have missed. I do that a lot! Thanks again.
Hi Andy, Thanks for the kind comment about the video. I dont think there is any settings on the camera where it will just download the focus stacked Jpeg. One way around it would be to delete the raw files in camera, only keeping the stacked Jpegs. Although generally speaking its not recomended, I think it would work for you. So then what you could do is select the Jpegs and just download those. Watch this video. ruclips.net/video/U8H0GReIz4Y/видео.html If you give the final stacked Jpegs a star rating, and then only download the images that have been stared. Hope this helps.
Interesting about the background shots being diffused using stacking. I must try using it for some bird shots, because as you know, sometimes the background can be disappointing using M4/3. That is of course, if the bird keeps still! Thanks.
As you say Dave, `if the bird keeps still` ! Quite unlikely for a bird , and its not a system that I have ever used for bird photography. Its more for close up and macro photography
@@joelleff I took a series of shots at different focusing points. Some focusing on the legs, some on the tips of the antenna. With stacking, it takes the first shot where you have focused, it them moves forwards two shots, and then the rest of the stack is behind where you focused.
Roger, at 5:06 you use _manual_ focus with in-camera stacking? I can't see how to do this -- whenever i go to stacking, it will only work with autofocus (OM-1+90mm). Any tips?
Hi Ian, To get stacking to work , you have to initially set the camera to autofocus. This enables stacking , otherwise it will not work. Once stacking is activated, I can then change the change to focusing to manual, and focus carefully. When I press the shutter button, the camera reverts to autofocus (I believe this is correct. ) but the stacking will start at the exact point you have focused.
Nice video. But: I wonder if you do both focus bracketing AND fotostacking in the Olympus OM1, or is the stacking itself done in a a separate computer?
Thanks for commenting. On the OM1 and other Olympus cameras : `Stacking` is where the camera will take the pictures and stack them for you `in the camera`. For `Bracketing`. the camera will take the pictures but you have to download them onto a computer to stack them, usually using stacking software. I have used bracketing` in the past, but very rarely use it now . I find that with the OM1,the `stacking`is so good. Having the camera do it for you is a lot easier. Hope this answers your question.
Thanks for the kind comment Steve. I do not have the 90mm lens, - I only have the 60mm. I do occasionally use flash, but not often. The flash I use is the STF-8 twin flash, and it does have diffusers with it. I dont think hand held stacking would work with flash. (although never tired it so I could be wrong) You have to wait for the flash to recycle, which would mean your more prone to the images in the stack being out of register. It would work prefectly if the camera was on a tripod. Hope this helps.
@rogerhance5883 Many thanks Roger. Yes very helpful. I have done quite a bit of macro with flash and diffusers but no stacking yet. So you have given me food for thought. 👍😀
Thanks for your fabulous sharing, especially the tip about the min. shutter speed for hand held focus stacking. One question: where do you set your initial focus point on and how?
Nice video Roger, I have one question for you, You use rather high ISO settings but the pictures looks almost noisefree. Do you use some kind of noise reducing program such as for example Topaz denoise? Kind Regards from Marten!
Thanks for the kind comment. I use a high ISO setting because I find noise is not a problem with the OM1 until you go above ISO 1600. If I crop in, then the extra magnicication of the crop can show some noise, but I use a small amount of noise reduction in Lightroom ( Luminence slider to 20) and then follow it up with Topaz De Noise in photoshop if its necessary. More often than not, its not necessary. The new noise reduction facility in Lightroom is very good, but a bit `slow` in comparrison to Topaz DeNoise.
Hello Roger, a really interesting and informative video,as always. I use focus stacking quite a lot, much more trial and error than a knowledge of the impact between number of shots and increments so your experience will come in very handy. The quality of the butterfly images are superb with very attractive specimens. Do you use flash for your macro photography and if so what setup do you advise. This is something I haven’t tried yet. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience with us.
Thanks for the very kind comments Roger. I do not use flash myself, but I have friends who use the OM1 and use it all the time. (to be honest, I have never really gor on with using flash) If using flash for focus stacking you would probably have to put it on a tripod because there could be a delay btween shots as the flash recharges. If I was using flash normally, I would only use it on a single shot, and then, only really as a fill in to brighten the picture and fill in the shadows.
Thanks Nick. Stacking and Bracketing are different on the OM1. If I was to use `bracketing` , I would have to download all the images onto the computer and use a stacking software like Helicon focus. (bracketing will allow you to take up to 99 images) The `stacking` facitliy on the OM1 will actually stack the pictures in camera. This will give you a finished stacked Jpeg. When you download onto the computer it will give you the finish stacked Jpeg as well as the original raw files in the stack. Then if you decide you want to stack them yourself, you have that option. (stacking only allows you to take up to 15 images in the stack)
Excellent Roger (again). I assume you are shooting in Aperture Priority but are you selecting the ISO setting manually to achieve your shutter speed or are you using Auto ISO?
Thanks for the very kind comment Tim. Its much appreciated. You are correct, I am shooting in Aperature Priority. Generally speaking I am setting the ISO myself (its what I am used to) I just keep an eye on the light and shutter speed and set accordingly.
Hi lovely post thank u. I’m Nikon shooter and was planning on getting used d850 to do stacking with orchids. I assume full frame will yield a bit better out of focus backgrounds compared with M4/3 wide open? D850 has no ibis so hand held stacking is probably not an option compared with OM1? I’m tempted to try OM1 for my orchid shooting as I hear macro shooting on M4/3 yields good results? I like to print to A2 so not sure if small sensor has enough pixels? Would appreciate your thoughts on my points raised. Thank u
The OM1 is very good for photostacking , especially as the Image Stabilization is so good. To be honest, I much prefer to use a tripod for stacking, but sometimes it is virtually impossible, so hand held stacking is the answer. I will be making a video on hand held stacking of orchids at the start of May. Thats when the Green Winged Orchids come up, and I have a very good site near me. Regarding printing up to A2. I have printed quite a few images from the Olympus to A2 size. Providing you are not cropping heavily (which you would not be with Orchids) , its really not an issue. Having said that, I have recently printed a shot to A2 from a heavily cropped image, by simply putting the shot through Topaz Gigapixel AI. That software is amazing.
I rented om-1 with 60mm and this feature worked great. I just rented it again with the 90 mm and it is no longer stacking. I do not get that busy screen while at stacks.
I do not have the 90mm macro lens (I cannot afford it at present) . I gather that stacking only works with this lens providing the latest firmware is updated. Chances are, you have a OM1 with one of the older firmware updates. Thats what it sounds like to me, but as I have said, I do not have the 90mm so cannot be sure. Hope this helps.
It should do with the 60mm at 1:1. I dont understand why it shouldn`t. Maybe contact OM Systems and ask one of their specialist if they can give you a reason.
@rogerhance5883 I was holding the 1:1 trigger and pressing shutter, that was the problem. I should activate 1:1 by toggling the lever once and without pressing back button focus press the shutter, focusing by moving back and forth. The only issue I found in this is when I press the back button focus button camera is trying to focus, which it shouldn't because I'm in full manual focus mode.
@@prasanthgn I dont use back button focus myself. It may sound obvious but you do realise you do not have to hold the 1:1 dial at 1:1 ? When you move the dial to 1:1 it will spring back. This is normal ,and although it springs back, the lens will still be set at 1:1 mgnification. This fooled me at first.
Thanks Richard. I do a bit of sharpening in Lightroom (clarity slider ) but generallly speaking, I only tweak the slider a small amount. The 60mm macro lens is very sharp, so not much sharpnening in post production needed. Obviously the stacking means the final shot will show amazing sharpness.
I have the OM-1 and 60mm and I have been able to get some good macro shots, but not consistently. I have a very, very difficult time so far understanding how to get insect eyes (for example) clearly in the shot. If I take 100 pics, sometimes I get 100 that are all just slightly ruined by blur or being out of focus. I have also only been using flash, which I see you are not here. I will have to try this video and see how my pics come out, because I am getting majorly frustrated!
Sorry to hear you have been dissapointed with your macro results. You may find that stacking helps to increase the sharpness. Remeber not to drop bellow 1/400th sec, and try for even fast. I also will shoot at F4 and F5.6 if I need extra sharpness.
@@rogerhance5883 I have been practicing every day and I am getting better now. I understand now that the depth of field is a pretty small thin band in 1:1 (which I also learned how to use by toggling AF to MF via button to stay in 1:1). I have shot in everything from F4 to F11, and pretty much landed on 7.1 and 8. Stacking has worked a few times for me and it really does help, and I think once I get a better flash and just keep practicing rocking the camera back and forth in manual mode to achieve focus that I will get better single shots too. In fact, today I ran into a scenario where a very cool bug landed for only a split second and I happened to be in position and JUST missed clear focus on the one and only chance I got at it, but that is part of the game I think, patience and understanding this is a pretty difficult thing that requires time and practice (and watching videos like yours),
Thansk for the kind words. I focus about a 1/4 of the way into the subject. For stacking, the first shot is on the position you have focused on. It then moves the second and third shots in the stack in front of the area of focus. The remaining shots in the stack are focus behind where you initially focused.
When I try focus stacking on my e-m1 mark ii. It’s taking nearly 40s to process 8 shots w no flash. Why is mine so much longer. I can’t move in those 8s or the shot fails. Help!!
Hi Shannon, What shutter speed are you using ? Once it starts stacking the pictures, you will not do any harm moving the camera. Its only as the shutter is firing as you are taking the shots that its important not to move the camera. Although the MkII does not have a fast a processor as the OM1, a possible reason it is taking a long time to process the images is because you have a slow `write speed` on your card ? I have fast cards that I use for ProCap and Stacking, and slowers cards for general photography. The fast write cards are expensive, but they are a lot quicker in stacking the shots. My fast write cards are Sandisk 300MB/s where as the slower cards I use for general photography are 95MB/s. This video is one I made on focus stacking using the MkIII. ruclips.net/video/kQdjQIFeZV0/видео.html I hope this helps.
Lovely. I usually do single shot butterfly macro but you have inspired me to try in-camera focus stacking with my recently purchased OM-1 Mk2 and 90mm pro. One trick I have used is to hold the camera with both hands with one hand around a walking pole, sliding the camera down to the required level - greater stability without the hassle of a tripod or mono pod. Your photos are great!
Thanks for the kind comment Peter. Glad you liked the video. Hand held stacking is definately possible, providing the shutter speed is not too slow.
Beautiful shots considering you’re not utilizing a flash. Bravo sir.
Thanks for the kind comment. Glad you liked the video.
Very well explianed Roger. Amazinh what can be done today.
Cheers Mike. The technology makes it possible to take pitcures we would of only dreamed of getting years ago.
Excellent Video Roger, I use the 60mm with a 250 Raynox Lens and the Olympus Twin Flash. With the flash I can go up to F16 to get a Black background, which makes the Image pop out!!!! Some people don’t like it , but if I want natural blurred back ground I drop the F number. I have tried stacking had some success but as you stated if the insect moves it corrupts the final image. I have watched your videos a lot and gained a lot of knowledge, thanks again Graham Cox.
Thanks for the kind comment Graham, and I am glad you enjoy my videos. The 60mm is a great lens, although a month or so aga I treated myself to the 90mm, which is even better. As you say, black backgrounds can produce stricking images whcih really make the subject `pop` but I prefer a more natural looking background, so only use my twin flash as a fill in. Once again, thanks for the kind comment.
Nice video, mad you can do this handheld these days.
Thanks for the kind comment. Glad you enjoyed it. As you so righhtly say, its mad that its possible to focus stack hand held with todays cameras. 15 years ago it would have been the stuff of dreams.
Really great shots Roger! i just got my OM-1 but with the 90mm macro lens, I will try to get some great shots with it.
Glad you liked it. Thanks for the kind comment. Hope you enjoy the 90mm macro. Still saving up for mine.
Nicely explained Roger. Very enjoyable video. I’ve not done much in the way of macro photography. I’ve decided to treat myself to a used E-M1mkiii and 60mm macro lens. Dipping my toes in the water, so to speak.
Thanks for the kind comment. Glad you enjoyed the video. The EM1mkIII is a good camera, and it works well with the 60mm macro.
Excellent! Now I want to practice!
Thanks for the kind comment.
Another pleasing and informative video. Lovely macro shots to illustrate your technique.
Thanks David. Much appreciated.
Great video Roger and some superb images.
Cheers Gary. Your kind comments are always appreciated.
Thank you Roger, I just buyed the OM.System but I still learn with it. This video is very good for me.
Thanks for the kind comment. Glad you have found it helpful.
Thank you for the clear information, great demonstration and great pictures. By far the best video I've seen on the 60mm macro lens so far.
You've convinced me to shoot focus stacked pictures.
Thanks. Glad you liked it and found it helpful.
Extremely informative. Thank you.
THanks. Glad you liked it. Whereas my videos are not the most professionally made videos you will find on RUclips, I do try to make make them as informative as possible.
Great video thanks. Downside is I now HAVE to buy the lens.
Thanks. The lens is very sharp and well worth the money.
Thank you for the video, made my pictures from the Eden project much better. Very good explanation of the settings
Thanks for the very kind comment. Glad that you found it helpful , and that it assisted you with your shots at the Eden project.
Excellent video Roger
Thanks Wayne. Much appreciated.
Wonderful video! Thanks for sharing your tips and tricks on focus stacking.
Thanks for the very kind comment. Glad you liked it.
Beautiful images Roger very good explanation on stacking
Cheers Andy. Your kind comments are much appreciated.
As usual Roger fabulous video, beautiful images many thanks
Many thanks Tom. Glad you liked it.
This is absolutely fantastic., thank u kindly…. Just got my Om-1 & macro . I am trying to learn all this ., néw learning curve feels overwhelming. This video is so helpful!!! I appreciate it so much!!!
Thanks for the kind comment Bernie. Learning a new camera is a bit of a steep leaning curve. Glad you liked the video and found it helpful.
A fabulous video of my favourite subjects. Superb images Roger
Cheers Barrie. Thanks for commenting.
Hi Roger. Greetings from Australia. Thank you so much for another great video.
Hi WAyne, Greeting from the UK 😀 Glad you liked the video and thanks for the very kind comments.
Well done Roger. Excellent video. Ive recently bought an EM 1 mark2 and having got the firmware up to date have had problems with focus stacking, because the settings mean nothing on their own. You have given me a starting point and as its a very wet day today I'll get out the orchids and practice. Will be like lockdown again.
OM D systems should pay you to teach its products. I feel sure that the complexity of its products puts many people off, as it did me for many years. Thanks again
Cheers for the very kind comment Trevor, and I am glad you found the video helpful. The EM1mkII will produce excellent photo stacked images. I regularly used my EM1mkII for stacking. I agree they should pay me but they dont ! 😂
Gorgeous images Roger, I will be using your settings as a reference: Thanks a lot.. Where I live there is a constant wind/breeze, so focus stacking is not an easy option. I have decided to stop using the AF button for macro, in order to use my OM1 one handed and hold the offending leaf or stem steady.
Thanks Pete. Glad you liked it. The wimberly plamp can be use to hold bits of card to reduce wind movement. Not a cheap tool, but very useful.
Great stuff as always Roger, you help me take better shots. Love the 'selfie' of you reflected in the back of the hover-fly.
Glad you liked it Ian, and thanks for the kind comment. I had not noticed my refection in the Hoverfly. Well spotted.
Beautiful images and the blurred background makes it pop out. When you were shooting the focus stack from the side of the butterfly, what was you focus differential?
Thanks for the kind comment. Off the top of my head, I cannot remember. It will not show the differential in the metadata. Generlly speaking, if I am photographing sideways on and the wings are fold reasonably parallel to the body. , -a differential of 2 or 3 will be fine. I photographed a Popular Hawk moth a few weeks ago, and the wings on that were out, so a lot more depth of focus needed. On that occasion, I used a differntial of 6. It depends on the subject. Hope this helps.
Wonderful video Roger. Really highlighting the focus stacking feature and how it works. I use it all the time!👍👍 Well done👍
Cheers Richard . Thanks for the kind comment.
Thank you Roger. Informative and well presented as always.
Encouraged to give Macro a try with the same lens on my EM5iii. Will experiment using the tiny LM3 flash with a simple diffuser. Not sure if its refresh rate can cope with 8 sequential shots.
The differential settings remain a bit of a mystery.
I have never used the flash for hand held stacking. As you say, the refresh rate may be a problem. It certainly works on a tripod. The little LM3 flash is a great little flash, and I prefer it to the other Olympus flashes.
Thank you sir. for your valuable suggestion for the macro photographer
Thans. Glad you liked it.
Great explanations and gorgeous images ❤
Thanks!
Many thnaks. Glad you liked it.
Brilliant technology the ability to focus stack wide open in low light ! A total game changer in light winds. Great results Roger 👍
Thanks for the kind comment Mark. 👍 Modern technology has made such a difference to my photography. It almost feels like cheating !
Great video Roger. Another fantastic tutorial and one I definitely need to practice. Just moved to OM and have been playing with the stacking feature with some ok results. Going to give your settings and advice a go. 👍🏻
Thanks for the kind comment. I hope you get some great shots.
Another informative and helpful video Roger and like others who have commented here, I will make a note of your settings and use them when I get the opportunity - as a starting point if nothing else. Of course, finding your subject - location - is key to photographing any wildlife and you have certainly demonstrated that skill. Top stuff!
Thanks Alan. I always appreciate your comments. Deciding which differential /and or number of shots to use in a stack is a bit of trial and error. When I first bought the EM1X, I though great, I can now do 15 shots as opposed to the 8 on my old EM1mkII. Initially, I was quite dissapointed with the results because I was getting `halos` around the subject. This I found out was because I was setting the differential to high, and it was focusing `past` the subject. Just becaus it will do 15 shots in stack, you do not always need 15 shots. Often, 8 or 10 is quite sufficient.
If you contact me via my web site - www.rogerhancefrps.com I can give you a discount code for 10% on a macro lens.
Fantastic video as always thank you for sharing. Please can you put your settings
Thanks Dave. Much appreciated. Most of the time I am shooting at IS0 1600, but when its bright, I will go down to ISO 800 or even as low as ISO 400. As I say in the video , I dont like going below 1/400th sec for hand holding, and prefer a much higher shutter speed if I can . The faster the shutter speed, the less chance of any camera movement between frames in the stack.
This was a wonderfully informative video Roger. I was always wondering if this were possible. I have done it a lot with smaller TG cameras with excellent results. Thanks a lot!
Thanks Dan. It does work well providing you do not fall bellow 1/400th second. Below that, its difficult to keep all the shots in register. For example if I was using 60th second or slower, I would need to put it on a tripod.
With the Hverfly you can even see the photographer on the back. Well done
Thanks for the kind comment. 👍
Excellent video
Thanks David. Glad you liked it.
Hi Roger, perfect educational videos, unique in character and very beneficial in terms of demonstrating OM capabilities. I have related questions about the OM-5, which I'm thinking of as a macro camera for a super light setup, because I spend several hours in neck-breaking positions where every gram is noticeable. Can I ask for a comparison of the OM-5 with the OM1mkii, in terms of max. fps and range of shutter speeds, with automatic stacking? At the same time, what is the max. number of possible preset shots in a series? Please compare both. Also, what is the maximum number of flash shots for both when using onboard bracketing? I mean everything in sync with the flash and under ideal conditions, i.e. with a fast sync.flash with a full battery, at low ISO. This information is very hard to find online. Thank you very much in advance for your answer and for all the work you do, I really enjoy this form of education😊👍BR, Charlie
Beautiful stacks. Thanks for sharing..
Fantastic video Roger!
Thank you for the video Roger, it has been an interesting watch. I am a new OM-1 owner just getting used to its many functions and using it with the 12-100 lens until I can afford to add a macro. I just wanted to confirm with you that what I am finding in-camera and then confirmed in Lightroom is correct, namely, that the camera will store 8 RAW images (for instance) and then deliver a final compressed jpeg as a ninth image. Is there a means to make adjustments in-camera that will just give me the resultant jpeg, as the intervening RAW files are of no value. I returned home early from my last day out with around 1050 images on my memory card and downloading is taking a long time. I hope I have explained this well enough and apologise if there is anything obvious I have missed. I do that a lot! Thanks again.
Hi Andy, Thanks for the kind comment about the video. I dont think there is any settings on the camera where it will just download the focus stacked Jpeg. One way around it would be to delete the raw files in camera, only keeping the stacked Jpegs. Although generally speaking its not recomended, I think it would work for you. So then what you could do is select the Jpegs and just download those. Watch this video. ruclips.net/video/U8H0GReIz4Y/видео.html If you give the final stacked Jpegs a star rating, and then only download the images that have been stared. Hope this helps.
Interesting about the background shots being diffused using stacking. I must try using it for some bird shots, because as you know, sometimes the background can be disappointing using M4/3. That is of course, if the bird keeps still! Thanks.
As you say Dave, `if the bird keeps still` ! Quite unlikely for a bird , and its not a system that I have ever used for bird photography. Its more for close up and macro photography
In the head on shots of the butterfly where exactly do you focus? Excellent tutorial and images as usual.
@@joelleff I took a series of shots at different focusing points. Some focusing on the legs, some on the tips of the antenna. With stacking, it takes the first shot where you have focused, it them moves forwards two shots, and then the rest of the stack is behind where you focused.
Roger, at 5:06 you use _manual_ focus with in-camera stacking? I can't see how to do this -- whenever i go to stacking, it will only work with autofocus (OM-1+90mm). Any tips?
Hi Ian, To get stacking to work , you have to initially set the camera to autofocus. This enables stacking , otherwise it will not work. Once stacking is activated, I can then change the change to focusing to manual, and focus carefully. When I press the shutter button, the camera reverts to autofocus (I believe this is correct. ) but the stacking will start at the exact point you have focused.
Nice video. But: I wonder if you do both focus bracketing AND fotostacking in the Olympus OM1, or is the stacking itself done in a a separate computer?
Thanks for commenting. On the OM1 and other Olympus cameras : `Stacking` is where the camera will take the pictures and stack them for you `in the camera`. For `Bracketing`. the camera will take the pictures but you have to download them onto a computer to stack them, usually using stacking software. I have used bracketing` in the past, but very rarely use it now . I find that with the OM1,the `stacking`is so good. Having the camera do it for you is a lot easier. Hope this answers your question.
Very interesting video Roger. I have just got the OM1 and 90mm Zuiko. Do you ever use flash and diffuser?🙂
Thanks for the kind comment Steve. I do not have the 90mm lens, - I only have the 60mm. I do occasionally use flash, but not often. The flash I use is the STF-8 twin flash, and it does have diffusers with it. I dont think hand held stacking would work with flash. (although never tired it so I could be wrong) You have to wait for the flash to recycle, which would mean your more prone to the images in the stack being out of register. It would work prefectly if the camera was on a tripod. Hope this helps.
@rogerhance5883 Many thanks Roger. Yes very helpful. I have done quite a bit of macro with flash and diffusers but no stacking yet. So you have given me food for thought. 👍😀
Ha! Thanks for this video. Since you also have the 90mm I was wondering why you used the 60mm here. Do you still use it a lot? s so why?
Glad you liked the video. I dont actually own the 90mm lens . I only have the 60mm, hence the reason for using it.
Thanks for your fabulous sharing, especially the tip about the min. shutter speed for hand held focus stacking.
One question: where do you set your initial focus point on and how?
Thanks for the kind comment. Glad you like the video. I usually focus about 1/4 of the way into the subject.
One of the best videos I have seen on this subject. Well done!
Thanks Steve. Your kind comment is appreciated.
Very informative, thanks. The Heath Frit is one I want to find, somewhere in Kent I assume? Quite a rare one
Thanks Brian. No , not Kent. Hockley Woods in Essex. In June they have good numbers of them.
Nice video Roger, I have one question for you, You use rather high ISO settings but the pictures looks almost noisefree. Do you use some kind of noise reducing program such as for example Topaz denoise? Kind Regards from Marten!
Thanks for the kind comment. I use a high ISO setting because I find noise is not a problem with the OM1 until you go above ISO 1600. If I crop in, then the extra magnicication of the crop can show some noise, but I use a small amount of noise reduction in Lightroom ( Luminence slider to 20) and then follow it up with Topaz De Noise in photoshop if its necessary. More often than not, its not necessary. The new noise reduction facility in Lightroom is very good, but a bit `slow` in comparrison to Topaz DeNoise.
Thanx for rapid clear response👍
Hello Roger, a really interesting and informative video,as always. I use focus stacking quite a lot, much more trial and error than a knowledge of the impact between number of shots and increments so your experience will come in very handy. The quality of the butterfly images are superb with very attractive specimens. Do you use flash for your macro photography and if so what setup do you advise. This is something I haven’t tried yet.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience with us.
Thanks for the very kind comments Roger. I do not use flash myself, but I have friends who use the OM1 and use it all the time. (to be honest, I have never really gor on with using flash) If using flash for focus stacking you would probably have to put it on a tripod because there could be a delay btween shots as the flash recharges. If I was using flash normally, I would only use it on a single shot, and then, only really as a fill in to brighten the picture and fill in the shadows.
Excellent hand held shots Roger - do you use any stacking software such as Helicon focus?
Thanks Nick. Stacking and Bracketing are different on the OM1. If I was to use `bracketing` , I would have to download all the images onto the computer and use a stacking software like Helicon focus. (bracketing will allow you to take up to 99 images) The `stacking` facitliy on the OM1 will actually stack the pictures in camera. This will give you a finished stacked Jpeg. When you download onto the computer it will give you the finish stacked Jpeg as well as the original raw files in the stack. Then if you decide you want to stack them yourself, you have that option. (stacking only allows you to take up to 15 images in the stack)
How to you get your initial focus before pressing the shutter? Do you use focus peaking or AF? Thank you
Excellent Roger (again). I assume you are shooting in Aperture Priority but are you selecting the ISO setting manually to achieve your shutter speed or are you using Auto ISO?
Thanks for the very kind comment Tim. Its much appreciated. You are correct, I am shooting in Aperature Priority. Generally speaking I am setting the ISO myself (its what I am used to) I just keep an eye on the light and shutter speed and set accordingly.
It looks like you are using Back Button Focus in the video. Is that an advantage ?
You are mistaken about me using back button focusing. I never used that. I always use the shutter button for focus
do you have to use e shutter or can you use mechanical shutter too ?
Thanks for commenting. You can only use the electronic shutter for stacking.
Focus stacking is made in the menu of focus bracketing? Confusing Olympus menu.
It's on the first page (Computational Modes) of the Camera 2 menu.
Hi Roger, whereabouts were you? Was it local in Colchester ?
Hi Jim, It was in Hockley Woods . Its the best location in Essex for Heath Fritillaries.
Hi lovely post thank u. I’m Nikon shooter and was planning on getting used d850 to do stacking with orchids. I assume full frame will yield a bit better out of focus backgrounds compared with M4/3 wide open? D850 has no ibis so hand held stacking is probably not an option compared with OM1? I’m tempted to try OM1 for my orchid shooting as I hear macro shooting on M4/3 yields good results? I like to print to A2 so not sure if small sensor has enough pixels? Would appreciate your thoughts on my points raised. Thank u
The OM1 is very good for photostacking , especially as the Image Stabilization is so good. To be honest, I much prefer to use a tripod for stacking, but sometimes it is virtually impossible, so hand held stacking is the answer. I will be making a video on hand held stacking of orchids at the start of May. Thats when the Green Winged Orchids come up, and I have a very good site near me. Regarding printing up to A2. I have printed quite a few images from the Olympus to A2 size. Providing you are not cropping heavily (which you would not be with Orchids) , its really not an issue. Having said that, I have recently printed a shot to A2 from a heavily cropped image, by simply putting the shot through Topaz Gigapixel AI. That software is amazing.
Great video. Do you have to hold the camera in the same position while it’s processing?
Thanks for commenting Brian. . Yes you do have to hold the camera in the same position. Otherwise the images in the stack will be out of register.
I rented om-1 with 60mm and this feature worked great. I just rented it again with the 90 mm and it is no longer stacking. I do not get that busy screen while at stacks.
I do not have the 90mm macro lens (I cannot afford it at present) . I gather that stacking only works with this lens providing the latest firmware is updated. Chances are, you have a OM1 with one of the older firmware updates. Thats what it sounds like to me, but as I have said, I do not have the 90mm so cannot be sure. Hope this helps.
Sorry if it's a stupid question, when in 1:1 magnification does focus stacking work? Mine doesn't. On a 60mm and om1
It should do with the 60mm at 1:1. I dont understand why it shouldn`t. Maybe contact OM Systems and ask one of their specialist if they can give you a reason.
@rogerhance5883 I was holding the 1:1 trigger and pressing shutter, that was the problem. I should activate 1:1 by toggling the lever once and without pressing back button focus press the shutter, focusing by moving back and forth. The only issue I found in this is when I press the back button focus button camera is trying to focus, which it shouldn't because I'm in full manual focus mode.
@@prasanthgn I dont use back button focus myself. It may sound obvious but you do realise you do not have to hold the 1:1 dial at 1:1 ? When you move the dial to 1:1 it will spring back. This is normal ,and although it springs back, the lens will still be set at 1:1 mgnification. This fooled me at first.
@@rogerhance5883 as soon as you press the shutter when in 1: 1 it automatically changes to manual focus. Really annoying.
Hello, the photos are great! But I wonder if the photos have been resharpened? If yes how? Exuse my bad english.
Thanks Richard. I do a bit of sharpening in Lightroom (clarity slider ) but generallly speaking, I only tweak the slider a small amount. The 60mm macro lens is very sharp, so not much sharpnening in post production needed. Obviously the stacking means the final shot will show amazing sharpness.
Incredible video Roger, really nice images, love a bit of macro photography, even if im not the best at it!😉😀❤️❤️
Thanks for the kind comment. Much appreciated.
👌🏻👍🏻👍🏻🙏🏻
Thanks
👋🏻🙋🏻♂️
As always Joan, many thanks.
I have the OM-1 and 60mm and I have been able to get some good macro shots, but not consistently. I have a very, very difficult time so far understanding how to get insect eyes (for example) clearly in the shot. If I take 100 pics, sometimes I get 100 that are all just slightly ruined by blur or being out of focus.
I have also only been using flash, which I see you are not here. I will have to try this video and see how my pics come out, because I am getting majorly frustrated!
Sorry to hear you have been dissapointed with your macro results. You may find that stacking helps to increase the sharpness. Remeber not to drop bellow 1/400th sec, and try for even fast. I also will shoot at F4 and F5.6 if I need extra sharpness.
@@rogerhance5883 I have been practicing every day and I am getting better now. I understand now that the depth of field is a pretty small thin band in 1:1 (which I also learned how to use by toggling AF to MF via button to stay in 1:1). I have shot in everything from F4 to F11, and pretty much landed on 7.1 and 8. Stacking has worked a few times for me and it really does help, and I think once I get a better flash and just keep practicing rocking the camera back and forth in manual mode to achieve focus that I will get better single shots too. In fact, today I ran into a scenario where a very cool bug landed for only a split second and I happened to be in position and JUST missed clear focus on the one and only chance I got at it, but that is part of the game I think, patience and understanding this is a pretty difficult thing that requires time and practice (and watching videos like yours),
Amazing handheld photos! When you manually focus, do you focus at the closest point to the lens? Thanks.
Thansk for the kind words. I focus about a 1/4 of the way into the subject. For stacking, the first shot is on the position you have focused on. It then moves the second and third shots in the stack in front of the area of focus. The remaining shots in the stack are focus behind where you initially focused.
@@rogerhance5883 Thanks!
liked it I watched it three times.
You watched it three times ? Wow. Thats much appreciated. Thanks. Glad you liked it.
When I try focus stacking on my e-m1 mark ii. It’s taking nearly 40s to process 8 shots w no flash. Why is mine so much longer. I can’t move in those 8s or the shot fails. Help!!
Hi Shannon, What shutter speed are you using ? Once it starts stacking the pictures, you will not do any harm moving the camera. Its only as the shutter is firing as you are taking the shots that its important not to move the camera. Although the MkII does not have a fast a processor as the OM1, a possible reason it is taking a long time to process the images is because you have a slow `write speed` on your card ? I have fast cards that I use for ProCap and Stacking, and slowers cards for general photography. The fast write cards are expensive, but they are a lot quicker in stacking the shots. My fast write cards are Sandisk 300MB/s where as the slower cards I use for general photography are 95MB/s. This video is one I made on focus stacking using the MkIII. ruclips.net/video/kQdjQIFeZV0/видео.html I hope this helps.
It’s taking 35-40s to start stacking the photos. Even at ss 400 which is what I don’t understand
@shannon4462 What is the ISO setting. What is your aperature? Is shutter speed 1/400th sec or above ?
On 9:14 i honestly see 0 difference between the f2.8 single shot and the 8 shot focus stacked one
Excellent video Roger
Cheers Peter.