International 2.4mR Sailboat Project - Episode 36 - Installing the rudder tube
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- Опубликовано: 1 май 2021
- This is episode thirty-six of an ongoing series following the construction of a wooden International 2.4 metre class sailboat. The design is called the Stradivari Mk IV by Hasse Malmsten.
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2.4 Metre class Association: www.inter24metre.org
Plans available from Malmsten Boats here: www.24mr.se
A short history of the Mini 12 and 2.4 Metre Class:
www.ukassociation2-4mr.co.uk/i...
Thanks for sharing your knowledge ... greetings from Argentina 🇦🇷 ☀️
As a person in trades the idea of an tricky choke point task that you kind of dread but needs to be tackled to open up the next stage of work is very relatable. Seeing the rudder in place was very satisfying. Another hurdle passed.
There's a lot of valuable info here. Great job man.
Your right alcohol the best lubricant.
Gin and tonic with ice and a slice 🍸🍸🍸
Ok, I thought the "lifting from the form" part was the last time I would be breathing into a paper bag... But this one required a paper bag. So much risk here. Well done (of course). Sail on!
Looks like that bulkhead jumped into place and tabbed itself to the hull when no-one was looking!
Nope. We put that in a little while back.
@@Nomadboatbuilding I know, I know. Just teasing because it wsn't there are the start of this video, and then suddenly it was. I know that you did this rudder video in one go rather than mixed in the with workflow, so there were bound to be some continuity issues.
great job Mark. looks awesome.
Two comments, first, its a bandsaw, second you did a damn fine job on the rudder. I'm a sailor, racer, small boat and big boat and one thing I can tell you is that every rudder has some slop in it, The attention you paid to getting it just right was great and it will pay off in the end, I would look at it and call it perfect.
Did I say something other than bandsaw? Sorry. Too much time alone in the shop. Thanks for comments.
@@Nomadboatbuilding I was just referring to trying to sort out a clamp for safety when you were cutting the rudder tube. Bandsaws are pretty safe in that application. I like the work you’ve doing on this boat. At times you’ve got to figure out stuff on the fly since it’s probably the first and last of this particular one design that you build, unless other club members start clamoring for one.
Ah, I see. Yes quite right on all points. I’ve taken to voicing my thoughts as I work for the sake if the camera. It’s the kind of thing my audience seems to appreciate.
Brilliant. A very informative video again.
Glad you enjoyed it
I buy G10 tube from an online plastics supplier. Haven't done a rudder tube but have used for it shaft logs. Expensive, but bomb proof and the key is getting it in any wall thickness you want. The only thing I would have suggested here is that on the bottom union to the hull, bore the hole clear through and glue in the shaft tube slightly proud. I know you had wet out the exposed planking in the last bit to the hole with epoxy but I think the other advantage besides preventing and moisture weeping into the wood fibers is that wear issue you were talking about, the delrin bearing would be turning on the end face of the tube rather than the surrounding planking (mostly anyway). I can see how my suggestion would have been probably more cumbersome to maintain alignment though.
If I were doing a shaft log I would have gone G10 for sure but I looked at the options for this and it just made more sense to fabricate it myself. Ordering stuff from the States is always a wildcard. All too often UPS screwdriver me over for an extra $40-$60 for brokerage fees on top of delivery charges. So unless I can combine enough bits and pieces to make it worth the extra costs, I generally don’t order stuff like that in if I can sour e it locally or make it.
Nice
Sailingboat projects it is good
I think it is better to protect the wood with glass tube down to the bottom of the hull don't you think, if that gasket fails!
I think you mean the delrin bushing. Na. All the weight is on the top of the tube anyway. That bushing is acting like more of a spacer than a bearing. Besides, I have finished surfaces on the outside with varnish already on them. I don’t want to start fairing off some epoxy squeeze out.
Nice work as usual Mark. Couple of questions. First up do you think there's any chance that top support for the tube could crack along the grain should the rudder take a hit? If the rudder is pushed back at its base, then it will push the shaft into the top support but if the rudder is pushed forwards (less chance for sure) then there will be tension on the top support. Possibly the top support becomes secondary once the deck is installed? Next, why is the leading edge of the rudder not following the shaft and tube and stepped back the way it is? Thanks for always putting up good stuff and showing me all those little tools and gadgets I then want. :D
In answer to the first question, the tube will be foamed in around it plus it gets a plywood deck glued over the top support. Chances of cracking are pretty low. Second, I don’t know why it’s stepped back like that. Probably lowers the chances of stalling for one. I’m sure there are other reasons but I didn’t ask the designer.
I`m surprised you did`nt smeer tallow around the rudder shaft before glueing up the base of the tube?.
I put paste wax on it.
Nomad Boatbuilding advertising campaign *"Wiggle room built in"*
special with the ruder one could half the weight with some carbon tubing , carbon shaft...?
Not worth the extra expense. Most of that weight is below the waterline where it is helping us anyway.