Lightburn 1 0 Print and Cut to the Rescue!
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- Опубликовано: 12 авг 2021
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Хобби
WOW. Excellent tip. I was using my USB to communicate with the laser and had multiple times it would lose the connection with my laptop. This would have saved me so much material. I use wireless connection now but I will remember this video in case I have to use it.
You can always restart a job in the preview window. Just scrub the slider back to the point where it stopped and select, start job from here.
Omg Rich this is exactly what I needed to know,can't tell you how many failed cuts or even engravings I've had because I took the work material off the burn bed. Thank you so much for this and all that you do. Like I said you're the " Godfather of Lasers and knowledge "
Glad it was helpful Jim! It's save my butt quite a few times! Once on a special commissioned piece that was already built and finished when they brought it to me! Could have been a disaster!
I was having trouble with print and cut. I watched your video and your instructions were spot on. It worked the very next time. Used it perfectly on a jig for pencils. I’ve watched a bunch of your videos, now I need to register with your community! Thanks for your help and generous support.
Awesome! 👍 Thanks for watching!
Absolutely amazing! I have a new laser and this function will be a game changer for time savings.
I really enjoy your style of teaching you get right to the point, no silly intro and time waisting music.
And the most important you explain what you are doing and why! Keep video’s rolling 😁🛫
Glad you enjoy it! Thank you!
Man you making lightburn so much easier to learn with direct instructions and no BS that most people don't want to know anyway ......most people just want the nuts and bolts and dont care about the how and why just how to use it for there needs ,,,, THANKS again for what your doing
Thanks so much Mark! Glad to hear that. But you know, I edit out all the BS 😁 I tend to ramble!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy just please dont stop making viedos i have learned so much from you in two days than i have in 3 months i have had my laser and i feel better about using it now .... you have flattened the learning curve for me at least
@@Bandit-di3pi Glad to hear it! Thank you!
This will make it So much Easier to burn my Family Crest on the pool deck with my Universal Engraver (20X25") with the Ortur 15W L1-3 head.
I was going to Slice the image into pieces and basically do the same thing by moving the frame and ..... Hope it was straight!?!?!
This will make it easier to go back and do colour like you show in another video.
This old dog Can still learn some new tricks lol, never touched a laser till a couple of months ago.
Thank you Sooooo Much!!!
My pleasure Bill! And hey, when you do the deck, Tape off the area of the graphic to make sure you stay square! I did a 12' x 5' conference table with print and cut, only the center 12" all the down the table, and I taped it off first with masking tape. Came out perfect!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Perfect... I'll do that
Thank you again
Wow! I had this exact problem yesterday and am going to try this out this morning. Thanks for the perfect timing on this video.
Glad it helped Peter!
Rich, thanks for these videos. They make learning Lightburn fun again. I have, as many have, moved my project only to realize later I missed something. Thus running the project again. Thanks again.
My pleasure Dave! Glad you liked it!
I definitely learned from this video. Thanks again Rich!
You bet Douglass, thanks!
Great function, I had looked at this and couldn’t figure out what is was. Thanks for all of your videos they are brilliant.
Happy to help!
Great tutorial on the print & cut feature 👍
Thanks so much David!
Thanks Rich, I really learn a lot from your videos. Keep them coming
Thanks, will do Michael!
Brilliant explanation, just loving your videos there so helpful. Keep em coming
Glad you like them Andy! Thanks for watching!
just got my ortur laser last week, your videos really help! Thanks Rich
Glad to help Ron!
That's an amazing tool- thank you for demo!
You bet Droid!
Thanks for all you do. Wonderful information clearly stated. Thanks again.
Thanks for watching Wayne!
Man, I wish you lived next door.
There's a house for sale 3 houses down Tom! 🤪
Hi rich. Thanks again for a very enlightening video. Very useful information and very well explained.
Glad it was helpful Emanuel!
Another great video. This is super useful. As stated in previous comments, I currently own a Glowforge and am about to purchase a AF2028-80 from OMTech. This is something that you simply CANNOT do on a Glowforge (as far as I know). I have messed up lots of cuts and wasted alot of wood because of trying to add something later or removing a project from the bed only to find out it didn't cut all the way thru. I can't wait to get a real laser with real software!
Thanks so much!
All Glowforge owners wind up upgrading to a real machine Johnny. Check the comment I made in your last comment for an even better choice! The machine I use!
Excellent Information, Thank You
Glad it was helpful Gary!
I tried a few days ago w/my S9 but I thought i had to home it after setting the points. It failed and then i thought it might have worked and this is the prove. Now i also know i can move the laser by hand.
I’ll try this again asap, I’m very interested in the feature
Thanks for sharing
My pleasure Gabriele!
this is going to be handy, Thanks again for a good tutorial
My pleasure Larry!
That feature is amazing!!! I’m sure I’m gonna wear that function out.
I know I have! 🤪
Omg , I’m going to practice this, could safe me from so much waste from my mistakes. , going to share this video , thank you so much
You are so welcome!
This is PERFECT...THANK YOU!!!
You're welcome! WIlliam!
Thanks Rich ! I am in Italy and even with my bad English I can understand your videos perfectly !
Probably because I'm Italian 🤪 I'm glad you can follow along! Thanks for watching!
Great videos, learn so much, keep the good work.
Thanks, will do Leonardo!
Another great video. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Great video! You make things so easy😜👍
Thank you Emmett! I'm glad it helped you!
Great Job Rich!! This one is a challenge for me ..... no red dot....
EEK! You need to get one Rich! 😁 All C02s should come with one calibrated.
Thanks Rich this could save me and others a lot of time and material plus I'm one that doesn't read the manual
Glad to help Pete!
This is an awesome feature. So happy to have learned this.
It sure is Craig. Save quite a few jobs for me!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I have wasted a good amount of material without this feature. I just got lightburn and your videos have been a tremendous help!!
@@HeggenHomeGoods Glad to hear it!
Another Great video
Thank you Edwin!
Great informative video
Thank you Craig!
Another great video. It seems like this method would be great to position templates if you had a couple of target points engraved on the template outside the cut/engrave area. Thanks for what you do.
Absolutely!
Awesome !!!
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it!
Excellent 👍
Many thanks! 👍
THANK U!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You're welcome!
Thanks again Rich for your clear instructions.
Is there any other videos besides the one Gil did on print and cut in Lightburn.
I would like to make paper business cards.Can I print in color from Lightburn or I would have to do it in another program and then bring into Lightburn
Yeah, in Lightburn, Click Help --> Online Tutorials. They have one there Anthony!
Great video, very clear instructions, but mine jumps over and burns at an angle. Any suggestions
You must be doing something different.
Another great video, silly question though, when ypu align the 2nd point what's to stop the 1st position getting misaligned?
If you have set the first target by jogging and then fine tuning by hand, the 2nd target will align almost if not perfectly. If not, on the move tab, set the distance to .5mm and jog it to the 2nd spot with the arrow keys until it's perfect. You can only move the first target by hand.
Another trick learned
Glad you liked it Dino!
Nice video Rich. Super handy. Thnx.
Question. The target positions are you move the laser by hand to the points or do you need to use the arrow keys to positioning them.
Both, by hand on the first one, and with the move arrows on the 2nd one or it won't work.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Great! I had the same question. I'm headed to the shop to the shop(basement) to try it out. Your videos are a lifesaver! Thanks!
Very good information. It appears this will only work well if you have a camera on the laser that is properly calibrated. Is that correct?
No, you don't need a camera at all. You can jog the laser by eye.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Thank you
How did the laser end up in the right spot on the second registration mark? If the piece had been rotated a few degrees, and you only manually lined it up with the first registration mark, I don't see how the second mark could have been lined up unless you got lucky.
I moved it about 2mm. Just lucky. I also only had to move the 1st one about 4mm. Once you get the first one, you move to 2nd one and hold down on the 1st while you slightly tilt it in place. Sometimes you have to align both points 2 or 3 times, I just got lucky!
Very nice, thanks Rich. Question, when I engrave on wood I get a lot of bow off, soot (air assist on) what is the best way to remove the soot between the letters and the rest of the job?
I just give it a light sanding Mike.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy thanks
You are just awesome, does it have to be a point? I made a circle and it did not cut all the way, will this work for a circle? You are a lifesaver.
Yes, it works best on a point.
what are those black and clear circles numbered 1 to 4 on the job for?
It was scrap cardboard that I reused. Those numbers were from the camera alignment.
Great instruction! But you didn't show the end product "cutout"
There was no end product Don. I was just demonstrating how I could run the second pass on some waste cardboard over the same lines with 100% precision after moving the work piece. It was just a demonstration.
another question. I started a cut and it stopped half way through I think we lost power. will this technique work for this situation? if so where would I put the location points? on the part that already cut or the over all whole cut, even though there is nothing there. sorry confusing.
Yes, but easier yet, go to the preview window and scrub the timeline back to the spot where it stopped. Than click Start job from here.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy You are absolutely amazing thank you.
Rich I’m hoping you can clarify something for me please. What is the difference to send output with scaling and without scaling? Thank you as always for your video
Do you mean Overscanning Michael? Overscanning is important for Grbl machines so they can go past the end of the burn and have time to turn around without burning.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy the video is about cut and print, I know what overscanning is.
U get two options with the wizard?
Honestly? I have no idea what unscaled means 🤪
Damn I hope I updated
It's up to 1.04 already!
Awesome video! I'm trying to process this as to how I would use it. Can you do this in advance prior to any cuts/engraving? For example - I have a sheet with 12 ornaments to cut (no camera) can I set up the registration marks before doing any cutting? Meaning I have my file ready to go cut - but want to add the registration marks prior to. I would think so but wanted to check. This would be a huge proactive measure if it works that way! (Hope my question makes sense)
No, or at least I don't think so.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuyWell poop. I guess the synapses aren't firing correctly (no pun intended). I'm going to take another shot. Use this when you already completed some or all of your project and it didn't work out (meaning didnt cut through or engrave enough) and you moved the material from the cutting area. Then you add the registration marks, align laser and all that - then you can recut? Did I get??
You got it.
Rich when you go to the laser and “manually” moving it do you mean put your hand on laser and move it? I have always aligned but using jog controls. This would be much faster.
If you are next to the laser, by all means, use the jog! But most diode lasers are a few feet from the computer, so you can just move the gantries. Jog or by hand, it still registers the X,Y position in the software Josh.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I just learned something new. I thought you had to jog it from LightBurn. This will definitely save some time. This will help alot when burning something that is bigger than the laser.
@@krisknowlton5935 Glad it helped!
Any ideas on how to do this with a C02 laser?
John, the procedure is the same, you just jog your laser on the Ruida or whatever control panel you have. You have to have a really good alignment of your red dot pointer though.
Which diode laser do you use that recognizes manual movement of the laser head? I have never seen any. If you move the laser manually, the position is lost. In my opinion, this can't work as you described. But maybe I'm missing something here. Or it's just the grbl controlled lasers that do not register manual movement...
When you're in absolute coordinates it doesn't matter. This was done on an Ortur Lasermaster 2. Any Grbl laser can do this without using the jog button. You saw it being done live, and I use it all the time. It is being registered to two points on the bed, that's all. Once you're finished, you have to rehome. It won't go specific coordinates in the software.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy Ah, I think I now could figure it out. I thought you would also be moving the laser manually to the second target point. That's what puzzled me. But now I tested, and the laser moves automatically to the second target. Because if you did this move manually, the laser would have no difference between those two points.
@@melvinisken Yes Sir!
I'm trying to cut out a design, the autism puzzle spelled out in the word love. How do I take a color image into lightburn and cut it without errors. I tried above but it is off in a few spots? Thanks
I don't know what you mean Mike. Lightburn automatically converts color to black and white without any file changes.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy For some reason as I jog to the first cross hair the position maker is to the right about 1/2", when I jog to the second and zero in as you then run a test it goes over the crosshairs first, the first one is fine but the second one is off by 1/4" or so to the left and when I run a test cut the head strays from the line, any help with this? Thanks
Try posting on my free forums. lahobbyguy.com/bb I really don't understand. Probably an xTool gremlin.
I see the benefit, what about on a rotary?
Never tried it on the rotary!
Question, Is the camera necessary to use this feature ?
Absolutely not. I used it for demonstration purposes only.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I will be giving it a try, just because. thx.
Really feel this video needs more explanation as you skip over aligning the second point. This needs to be shown in the video.
I have a Sculpfun S9 and if I manually moved the laser to the second point it would not register the location. Also which co-ordinate “Start From” to select (Current Position etc).
I never said to manually move the laser to the 2nd point Mike. What I said was you *jog* to the 2nd point on the move tab. You can only manually move the laser to the first point to save time. The reference is between the two points. I work in absolute coordinates, but for this job it doesn't really matter.
Ugh. I wish you offered private tutoring.
I do if you're running Windows. I have remote training on your PC. calendly.com/thelahobbyguy
Merci !
Thank you for the support!!
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy It is nothing compared to your amazing Chanel ! Your pedagogic skill is amazing, your involvent to this chanel, your generosity and your passion are just amazing ! A huge thank you again ! 🙏🏻
Waste of my time watching this.... You need to show how to set the beam on the points rather than just saying... ok there it's centered! are you pulsing the laser to see where it is?
This tutorial is done with a diode laser Jack. Diode lasers don't have a pulse option. We fire the laser at a low % and line it up that way. You can just use your red dot on a C02, I thought I mentioned that. Sorry you wasted your time!