They make stainless steel "zip ties" that will blend better with your project ! Though the black nylon ties are UV and strong, the hack factor of seeing them is too high. As for annealing stainless, others on here are saying you are doing it wrong but ... good job. "heating to above 1900°F and for 90 minutes per 25mm thickness followed by water or air quenching. The best corrosion resistance is achieved when the final annealing temperature is above 1900°F."
John you blessed us all when you started putting these awesome videos on you tube for our pleasure to watch. I always anxiously wait for your next video. By the way, is their another video soon on rear brake lines or are you going to let us imagine how you would do it? (My brain is not capable of that process). Love the brake line saddles. I asked my wife to order a coat hanger from you for me to hang my Cleveland Browns shirt on. She said I wasn’t worthy of it and handed me a plastic one. 😢
Really John, you gotta make us feel bad about how we do brake lines😔. Okay, so I really like that bending tool but again, thanks for the great tips, even my vairs deserve lines that actually fit 🤣
If you haven’t already thought about it, you should try to get some of your parts suppliers to sponsor you & get this in SEMA. It’s definitely a SEMA quality build!👍
I must say, the zip ties - while an elegant solution for many a hot rodder/fabricator - seem beneath you/your work. I scrolled through the comments and see that you'll be cutting them off for paint. But once it's all painted, will you be fabricating a sexier, more sophisticated clamping system?
If you cool in water you probably aren't annealing and rather are hardening. Annealing involves a slow cool down period in air or sometimes in warm sand or an oven to slow the process further. Unless there's something special about the stainless used for those brake lines.
I sandwich my tubing between two pieces of 3/4" plywood and roll the plywood over the tubing to make it die straight,l like your style and videos big thanks🤗😎🤗😎
I am always impressed with your work and I would not dare question anything you do. That said, why use plastic zip ties instead of metal ties? Just curious.
I love watching you building the corvair. I shared your channel with my brother. He builds really cool cars too. He put a jet engine in his last spring, and the chicks really dig him. He has some tools like you.
This is some incredible work. So when you're all done you'll disassemble and paint everything? For my radical 80hp car I just used 3/16 nicopp with the standard double flare. This is just the front, what are you doing for the rear? Is that proportioning valve part of a brake kit? Sorry, just trying to understand how you came up with the correct components.
Yes, after all the fab is done, then it comes apart for restoration. The rear was done a while ago. Wasn’t sure if I needed a P valve or not, put one in anyway.
This is the kind of "Braking News" I like to hear. John is so laid back and joking in his videos..., but when Nicole Johnson got behind the wheel of his Subi power Bug the man seemed down right stern and serious!
He was definitely none too happy with her when she go on the throttle hard. I can however understand where he was coming from as he had a little trouble earlier on controlling that beast on the test drive with her. You put in that much time and effort you don't want some knucklehead destroying it in the blink of an eye.
Annealing!!! Dang it! Why have I never heard anyone use this process in the past? I spent so much money on one of those hydraulic flaring tools only to have it break the die on 3/16” line every single time. So I would end up buying prefabbed lengths and “making them work”. If I ever build another car, I will be using this process to flare. Thanks!
you make stainless look easy but, iw as stoked to hear it's stainless, i live in the rust belt. also like that you can aneal it to work it like normal line EDIT: why not use stainless fittings always?
Stainless on stainless can gaul pretty easy and isn’t really necessary for fittings, as long as zinc plated steel is used. Plus SS fittings are three times the cost. My point was that I think aluminum fittings are too weak in the small -3 size that brakes use.
@@JohnReynolds661 I'll take that under advisement. On factree cars if I can break em loose I use anti size on the fitting threads and in-between the fitting and pipe but not the nipple very careful like to keep it from seizing back up and not get in the fluid. The salt is some nasty stuff. Youd almost need an all stainless car out here in the rust belt. Or lost of cleaning and maintenance
👍👍😎👍👍 ...... That's all there is to it ...... Thanks John for the beautifully concise and complete lesson. Really liked the tip of using the bender on the wire too.
The only issue with stainless brake lines is they are likely to fracture due to work hardening ( not as badly as copper though) If you use stainless lines you need to take this into account and avoid excess movement being concentrated in small areas. Vibrations from vehicle operation and flexing caused by brake application can result in failure even if the line never experiences harsh conditions or extreme high pressure. So when the brakes have been bled get a camera or a good friend to watch the movement of the lines when you stomp on the brakes repeatedly. If there is a lot of movement 1 millimetre or more before or after a bend and close to mounting points or other bends ( basically anything that doesn’t allow for the movement) the lines will eventually crack. You can design this problem out by simply allowing for the movement to not be concentrated in a small area.
I am looking forward to the completed project. I remember when people would use the Corvair 6 cylinder engines in VW Buses and Dune Buggies. This V8 in a Corvair will be amazing and reliable. Will there be any new videos on your 1973 Super Beetle?
I did many brake lines when I worked on fleets. Always the new copper / nickel alloy and usually used the old line for my template. At least you can make adjustments by hand with that stuff.
I always put a $1.00 yard sale shirt on my $40.00 coat hanger.
They make stainless steel "zip ties" that will blend better with your project ! Though the black nylon ties are UV and strong, the hack factor of seeing them is too high.
As for annealing stainless, others on here are saying you are doing it wrong but ... good job.
"heating to above 1900°F and for 90 minutes per 25mm thickness followed by water or air quenching. The best corrosion resistance is achieved when the final annealing temperature is above 1900°F."
Your video ends with you showing that you really did get the "hang" of brake lines. 😊
first class as usual
where did you get the line saddles (I googled Cartech and couldn't find them)?? And are you going to use them on your fuel line also ? Nice Work!!
Kartek, with a k. They come -3/-4 and -6/-8. Use them all over the place
Damn! Now I've got to go and redo my brake lines!
Very nice sir!
Um... you anneal metal by heating it cherry red and then water quenching?
Heat and let it cool slowly....
Not stainless, heat to 1900* then cool rapidly.
Investing in crypto now should be in every wise individuals list, in some months time you'll be ecstatic with the decision you made today.
Crypto is the new gold.
thinking about been successful, i know i am blessed if not i wouldn't have met someone as spectacular as Timothy Gregg
@Helen Murphy He has helped me to received a lot of profits since two years i have been trading with him
@Carmen Vazquez Yes that's true. his strategies are really good. I got payment every two weeks
I'm a living testimony of Mr Timothy Gregg
Everything thing was great up to the plastic zip tie.... How about a stainless tie?
It will have to be cut off a couple more times for paint and stuff.
I'm confused John. Don't you have another pair of brakes to plumb?
John, definitely enjoyed your brake line processes, but I still don't know why I need brake lines...
John you blessed us all when you started putting these awesome videos on you tube for our pleasure to watch. I always anxiously wait for your next video. By the way, is their another video soon on rear brake lines or are you going to let us imagine how you would do it? (My brain is not capable of that process). Love the brake line saddles. I asked my wife to order a coat hanger from you for me to hang my Cleveland Browns shirt on. She said I wasn’t worthy of it and handed me a plastic one. 😢
Really John, you gotta make us feel bad about how we do brake lines😔.
Okay, so I really like that bending tool but again, thanks for the great tips, even my vairs deserve lines that actually fit 🤣
I redid my Corvan 95 with the copper / nickel lines and used the old lines as templates. At least you can do final tweaking by hand with that stuff.
If you haven’t already thought about it, you should try to get some of your parts suppliers to sponsor you & get this in SEMA. It’s definitely a SEMA quality build!👍
I must say, the zip ties - while an elegant solution for many a hot rodder/fabricator - seem beneath you/your work. I scrolled through the comments and see that you'll be cutting them off for paint. But once it's all painted, will you be fabricating a sexier, more sophisticated clamping system?
wow! 23 seconds in look at that production quality!!! how do you only have 32k subs?
When I began watching, I knew I did not need to do this job on my car. Now, I’m not so sure.. 🤨
If you cool in water you probably aren't annealing and rather are hardening. Annealing involves a slow cool down period in air or sometimes in warm sand or an oven to slow the process further. Unless there's something special about the stainless used for those brake lines.
Fantastic work as usual. Love your vids.
I see you have Claude Rains helping at the band-saw, very nice.
I’m sure if you sold the coat hangers on line some rich person would buy them and fill there closet 🤷
I sandwich my tubing between two pieces of 3/4" plywood and roll the plywood over the tubing to make it die straight,l like your style and videos big thanks🤗😎🤗😎
What is the link for those weld and zip tie pieces you used to secure the brake lines please?
So this thing you're building will now stop as well as it will go, huh
I am always impressed with your work and I would not dare question anything you do. That said, why use plastic zip ties instead of metal ties? Just curious.
How dare you! Ha, j/k They are uv plastic and strong enough. Plus, they will have to be cut off at least one more time for paint.
Bending brake lines is fun ! Cool shirt !
I love watching you building the corvair. I shared your channel with my brother. He builds really cool cars too. He put a jet engine in his last spring, and the chicks really dig him. He has some tools like you.
@Mike go figure.
You should auction that coat hanger man...just sayin'.
Great video.
This is some incredible work. So when you're all done you'll disassemble and paint everything? For my radical 80hp car I just used 3/16 nicopp with the standard double flare. This is just the front, what are you doing for the rear? Is that proportioning valve part of a brake kit? Sorry, just trying to understand how you came up with the correct components.
Yes, after all the fab is done, then it comes apart for restoration. The rear was done a while ago. Wasn’t sure if I needed a P valve or not, put one in anyway.
քʀօʍօֆʍ
This is the kind of "Braking News" I like to hear. John is so laid back and joking in his videos..., but when Nicole Johnson got behind the wheel of his Subi power Bug the man seemed down right stern and serious!
He was definitely none too happy with her when she go on the throttle hard. I can however understand where he was coming from as he had a little trouble earlier on controlling that beast on the test drive with her. You put in that much time and effort you don't want some knucklehead destroying it in the blink of an eye.
Beautiful and precise work as always.
Thanks for sharing.
Always a pleasure to see your talent being at work 👍
5:45 Looking at the brake lines had me thinking.....Why not paint the brake lines or coat them with something when done, for looks & anti corrosion?
stainless steel will never rust... and will always look good.
😅😅
👍👍👍 you the man!
Annealing!!! Dang it! Why have I never heard anyone use this process in the past? I spent so much money on one of those hydraulic flaring tools only to have it break the die on 3/16” line every single time. So I would end up buying prefabbed lengths and “making them work”. If I ever build another car, I will be using this process to flare. Thanks!
you make stainless look easy but, iw as stoked to hear it's stainless, i live in the rust belt. also like that you can aneal it to work it like normal line EDIT: why not use stainless fittings always?
Stainless on stainless can gaul pretty easy and isn’t really necessary for fittings, as long as zinc plated steel is used. Plus SS fittings are three times the cost. My point was that I think aluminum fittings are too weak in the small -3 size that brakes use.
@@JohnReynolds661 I'll take that under advisement. On factree cars if I can break em loose I use anti size on the fitting threads and in-between the fitting and pipe but not the nipple very careful like to keep it from seizing back up and not get in the fluid. The salt is some nasty stuff. Youd almost need an all stainless car out here in the rust belt. Or lost of cleaning and maintenance
👍👍😎👍👍 ...... That's all there is to it ...... Thanks John for the beautifully concise and complete lesson. Really liked the tip of using the bender on the wire too.
Like all your videos Nothing but precision very nice work looking forward to hearing this bad boy running
The only issue with stainless brake lines is they are likely to fracture due to work hardening ( not as badly as copper though)
If you use stainless lines you need to take this into account and avoid excess movement being concentrated in small areas. Vibrations from vehicle operation and flexing caused by brake application can result in failure even if the line never experiences harsh conditions or extreme high pressure.
So when the brakes have been bled get a camera or a good friend to watch the movement of the lines when you stomp on the brakes repeatedly. If there is a lot of movement 1 millimetre or more before or after a bend and close to mounting points or other bends ( basically anything that doesn’t allow for the movement) the lines will eventually crack. You can design this problem out by simply allowing for the movement to not be concentrated in a small area.
Great job John, seems like its been forever since your last video.
Can't wait to see it all done going to be an awesome ride
I am looking forward to the completed project. I remember when people would use the Corvair 6 cylinder engines in VW Buses and Dune Buggies. This V8 in a Corvair will be amazing and reliable. Will there be any new videos on your 1973 Super Beetle?
Yeah, I’ve got plan for another VW video
Get it.
Man, I hated doing brake lines in my Corvair. However, the more I did it, the better I got. They look really good now!
I did many brake lines when I worked on fleets. Always the new copper / nickel alloy and usually used the old line for my template. At least you can make adjustments by hand with that stuff.
@@rupe53 That's how I did it.
@@whototeru ... btw, I mentioned it elsewhere, but I have a 64 Corvan 95 that I have been dabbling with for a few years.
Nice work brother !!