Long time fan and technician here. I don't know what diagrams your looking at but definitely not going to work right. Move the one from the cap that is the one that lets fluid out when the cap reaches the rated pressure and hook it to the bottom. Put a bleeder at the radiator connector. The line at the top of the tank is a vent to atmosphere so run it out the bottom. Get rid of the other line all together. It actually isn't steam coming out it is solid fluid with air mixed at first. Once the air is purged while hot top it off about 50-70% of the tank. It's a big tank so make it where you want. Wait till it cools and check again for a low mark. After a few heat cycles and the air is out of the system it will stay at a certain area(unknown at first)when hot and cold. Can't wait to see it run and drive!!
The line in the most question is the after-cap line. I can change it around easy enough. The line from the top of the radiator to the top of the tank is also question, especially since it travels underneath the car but that's how the GT40 routs it. I might just eliminate that line and put a bleeder on the radiator. I have a Subaru powered VW bug so I have some knowledge. What I found is that the best is a self-purging system. Anything else requires a few heat cycles to bleed.
If your going to close up the channel I'd insulate the fuel lines to prevent any possible issues. I'd also put louvers in the front to scoop up air and push it into the channel and have the back open to help vent the heat. Just my .02 worth. Love the build and I must say, your one hell of a fantastic fabricator.
@@JohnReynolds661 can the fuel line be run beside the rockers instead of with radiator tubes? The hot tube is going to expand quite a bit. But I really enjoy seeing the engineer in you over-ruling (usually) the bean counter in you. Beautiful work!
I have no idea why this project is not more viral than the Binky vids. It is more relatable and useful to the followers . Thanks for the build. The only reason, and it fails my analogy, is that we never know when to expect a release.
Fabulous build videos - thank you! I found the brief snippets of the clever use of your digital level to determine the angle of the tank mounting tube, which then was transposed to the digital angle gauge - particularly clever and not something I would have thought of. Can't wait to hear it run!
Very nice plumbing! I’m a little resistant to give advice to a man with your skills, but I’d move the fuel lines as far away from the exhaust as practical and insulate them. Really enjoying this build. Thanks.
I'm always way impressed with your work. I've wondered how someone would do a good v8 conversion on a corvair, and once again, you knocked it out of the park. Thank you for doing well, what others cobble together, and showing what taking your time, and packaging it so elegantly. WOW!!
Always enjoy whatever you bless us with to share and see on the Tube. The car is so well planned out and super clean. Looking forward to the day a post is up of the beast in full song. Love it. Thank you, take care and peace out.
You are doing a great job, we have a Lotus Europa that uses a bleed valve high up on the top of the engine and one in front on the top of the rad to help bleed the air out.
Your attention to detail is bar far the best of any DIY builder I have ever seen. As for the fuel and coolant tubes running together I would insulate the fuel lines and add cooling inlets and outlets to the center cover. I have watched all of your videos of this build. Excellent. Thanks.
You've got my rubber stamp of approval,well thought out,hoses and lines appear to be routed beautifully,just a well thought out build,looking forward to the next video🤗😎🤗😎
John, once again, all I can say, awesome awesome awesome. The only thing better than watching these fantastic videos is if we could be there watching you do your magic. Love the build just like I did when I watched you build the VW. I know there’s a lot of work ahead and more videos, but can you give us a clue on what the next project might be. they just keep getting better.
Thanks, I was going to do something electric, but it seems everyone is doing that now. Anyway, two projects that come to mind are a GT40 or C2 Corvette - both would be of the kit car version.
Your expansion tank/cooling system plumbing is so complicated, I'm glad my Corvair is air cooled :D Seriously, wonderful top notch craftsmanship as usual, thanks for the video :)
Echoing/adding to others' thoughts about the cover, I like the ideas of insulating the fuel lines and ducting air past the coolant lines. Maybe this could be effectively accomplished by adding two vertical partitions between the inner coolant chase and outer fuel chase, temporarily wrapping/masking the fuel lines and clamps, and surrounding areas, then filling the resulting outer chases with expanding insulation foam. This would give you two molded chambers with all available space insulated while still retaining access to the lines and fittings.
Kinda sad to see it running since i really love watching you work on this car can't wait to see it running but it's part of my routine gone it's gonna be a bitter sweet moment
Looks like you still have room for the air conditioner lines in the tunnel under the car. Love the build. I have a 1968 covered and undriven for over 20 years, same on me.
I sure hope you make a video of you working this car hard at a road course so we can all enjoy watching all your precise efforts perform as good as they look. I think it will be a road burner.
For the underbody cover for the fuel & coolant lines, you could do inlet and outlet NACA ducts. Besides cooling the all the pipes and maybe keeping some heat from radiating up into the cabin, we can all watch you custom make ducts.
a long time ago in a far away town, some friends and I were going to build up a standard boat trailer to haul a bunch of Lasers (sailboats). we bought a used aircraft generator, and crudely mounted that to an old Austin car motor (that was wobbling around on wood blocks) on a cheesy bracket. we used a Canadian hockey stick to pry the generator pulley and tighten the belt. the output was used to stick weld. we started this the day before hitting the road to Montreal. the welder would call "power !" I would open the throttle and tighten the belt by prying with the hockey stick. our buddy who was sorta helping by watching said "but what colour are we going to paint it ?" somebody will ask you the same question.
for the expansion tank, all three top hoses should be submerged in fluids : but far enough from the bottom hose (that goes to the engine suction side) great work, thanks for sharing...
I wish I had your shop tools and you had a feather in your Trunk, we'd both be tickled. I love the time you spend with routing and brackets. You know the inside diameter of a -6 is not very big. I always used 8 to 12's to assure good flow. Air moving over those lines, except when idling, should prevent fuel issues. Otherwise looks great!!
Watching your work is like watching my friend Tim's. A while back he built a Merkur with a 5 liter ford engine and turbo charged. He made it all wheel drive using the transfer case from a GMC Cyclone. The oil pan is a structural part that holds the driveshaft. for the right front. Now he's on a venture to make a Mustang all wheel drive. His RUclips is 'No production value Garage"
Very impressed with your fab work. Just thought I'd mention this, I seem to recall thermo-shock issues with the Pontiac Fiero having the radiator in the front & mid engine layout. Not sure if this will cause you any problems.
The expansion tank should have a ‘dip tube’ inside the tank attached to the fitting which will allow the radiator to suck fluid back as the system cools down. The dip tube should reach almost to the bottom of the tank so it won’t pick up air or steam as you mentioned.
You’re thinking of an overflow bottle which works the way you explain. Overflow bottles are unpressurized. Usually with an expansion tank, the steam port would go to the top of the tank and the system would draw fluid from the bottom, into the water pump inlet. This also helps to get air bubbles to the tank. The idea being that the radiator remains full and the expansion tank is at its fullest when the engine is at operating temperature.
Re: expansion tank In my experience the cap vent line, in a system with a pressurized expansion tank (not an unpressurized overflow tank) works only to vent excess pressure out of the sealed system. If both sides of the cap are seeing the same pressure, as they are hooked up now, the cap will not function as intended because there is no differential pressure. I know you don’t want to vent coolant, so the expansion tank needs enough head room to accommodate the expanded coolant without running out of space and venting fluid out that line. All that to say, I think that cap vent line goes to atmosphere.
You do fantastic work fabricating that "hybrid". Regarding the cooling system.......since the expansion tank also serves as a condensor for any steam in the system, some cooling should be considered. Maybe, at a minimum, a large heat sink attached to the expansion tank.
(Speculation to follow) I think if you add both the before and after the cap to water (when dumping) it could start a syphoning loop? Also maybe it expands less well since water doesn't compress? And it drives more water (other than the steam) into a less cooled loop? The cap isn't a the inlet, and the conflicting flows create turbulence.
John, the corvair is looking great. How about moving the fuel line further from the coolant lines? Seems easier and more elegant than insulating the fuel line. Fantastic work. I'm still reeling from the VW bug project.
Hi John, As I patiently await the startup, I recently have wondered how the massive rainfall has affected your area and your home/workshop/playpen(LOL)... all the best wishes!🙃
Radiator hoses will be 180 to 190 degrees, then you will box it? You are in California and hot summer days. I don't like fuel lines next to anything hot. Jay Leno aggrees. Would running inside rocker panels be a better place? I'm just tossing out alternative ideas. Nice work so far.
Well, my motto is keep moving forward. I'll address the lines and whether they should be insulated later. Insulating the fuel lines wouldn't be that hard but re-routing the fuel lines is two days work.
Could the floor be flat paneled with insulated lines? Then naca ducts on the quarters feeding the cai? It would seem to protect the squishy lines of varying temperatures and keep water/other shite away from the intake. Only ever dealt with FR setups so not sure what this advice is worth. Many experiences of hard lines being much softer than expected when a rock pops up! (also a member of the Reynolds > Binky fan club)
Yeah, I'm trying to stay away from any visual side ducts - if that's what you mean. The car will never be driving in the rain and I don't plan on any stream crossings so not really worried about water in the air filter.
Excellent work on the plumbing John. Top shelf all the way, just like the rest of the project. I agree about the -6 line running to the top of the expansion tank from the pressure cap, I don't like that it isn't submersed in coolant. Seems like it would allow the introduction of air into a system that shouldn't have air. Is the expansion tank's cap vented to allow atmospheric pressure in/out and prevent air lock? As for the fuel lines, I think you'll be fine with the coolant routing as the coolant won't get near as good as day exhaust work. If it was exhaust tubing I would definitely route the fuel differently. Worse case if you experience any issues you could wrap the lines just to prevent heat transfer but I doubt a couple hundred degrees from coolant will have any negative effects. Looking forward to the startup. Mike
Amazing craftsmanship! My only question is do you have enough wiggle in the cooling systems main plumbing. With the hard lines solid mounted under the car and only short sections coupling it to the rad and engine. With heat expansion and cooling and the motor moving. Looks really good though. From my understanding with expansion tanks when it's cold the lines in coolant go to coolant the ones that don't don't. So your expansion tank should be correct because when cold there is no coolant at the rad cap. That steam line is there to allow the air to escape as the coolant expands
I’d worry more about fuel heating from the radiator’s proximity to the fuel cell than the lines. A sheet of foam, or even plywood, would do a lot to reduce the thermal bridge there. A temp switch somewhere in the fuel system would be good. I think the tunnel hard lines would be a minimal risk. Belt and braces? Maybe firesleeve the hardlines. The coolant pipes are acting as additional rejection area. You may want to put foam above them to minimize floor heating. If I understand the bottle plumbing, you’ve essentially connected both sides of the radiator cap, no? The hose above the pressure cap should go to a separate, vented tank. Otherwise it’s going back to the same pressure underneath it and it can’t relieve pressure. Maybe I’m missing something. But otherwise, looks good.
The -6 3/8 the that sends steam back and draw back to the system should have draw tube inside the exp tank so it can pick up the fluid as it cools down with return vacuum You’ll need to run it and figure out a level and let it find its own level between operation temp / pressure and cooled down level You want to just keep the pick up tube in the coolant level when it’s cooled down The equalizer tube that goes to the radiator should be at the bottom of the exp tank so it never gets air into as it cools down it can cause an overflow with pressure in the rad. Is the exp tank higher than the rad cap ?
Draw back to the radiator or engine comes from the bottom of the puke tank. The puke tank needs to be vented to ambient air, otherwise a vacuum occurs, not good. Also in some cases the coolant line has to be burped to make sure it doesn't cavetate. Just a thought. Has to do with coolant levels between use and supply being somewhat equal.
DOes the stock system employ one of these "Expansion tanks"? if so, get one from a stock car at the junk yard and cut it open with a whiz-wheel and see if theres a snorkel or straw tube on the steam line going to the bottom? was my first thought......
Looks really trick. Awesome fabrication. How about installing a line from the dash 6 to the bottom of the expansion tank? Then when the motor cools down and wants to draw coolant back in, it has something to suck besides air...
I’d say, if you’re going to leave the channel open, probably don’t need to worry about the heat from the water lines transferring to the fuel lines. If you enclose it though, maybe it’ll be an issue? Could you channel air thru it, in case you enclose it? Even if you insulate the lines, if you enclose it, that might still trap the heat. That’s why, if you want to enclose it (which would provide protection), seems like channel air thru it and not insulating the pipes might be better?
@@JohnReynolds661 If you want a 'relatively' inexpensive, easy-install and durable insulation for the fuel line, recommend simple spiral teflon wrap commonly found at aircraft supply houses. While billed as being for wrapping electrical, a simple wrap of about 8" completely solved a chronic hot-day-in-Texas vapor lock problem we had with a factory-setup metal fuel line running close over an intake manifold. Looking at the distances between your lines, it should work even better.
Now that I think about it more, the cooling system on this car is likely to be a significant engineering hurtle. For what it’s worth, a friend who builds very high quality rod restorations for a well known shop, uses BMW electric fans because of their quality and availability. You might also consider using an auxiliary electric coolant pump to help move water. The pump on that engine may not be up to the task. Cool project none the less, I’d love to hear more about your thoughts on cooling system performance and design.
The radiator (in front) will have a pressure cap less than that on the engine. It will also have an overflow tank. Not really worried about the water pump suppling enough volume, I did the same thing on my Subaru/VW conversion. I may have to revisit some of this but will wait and see as I'm not a fan of chasing down problems that haven't existed yet. In other words, we'll see.
Neat, some large hose sizes there! Is it a journal bearing turbo? AN12 seems large for the drain. I reckon you'll be ok on the fuel line insulation too. Amazing how much time all of tge seemingly "small" details consume...always makes me laugh when I see an engine swap project where the engine is in the hole & it's called at 80%+ done....nope, more like
Does it still have the 2 steam ports in the heads. Those usually are piped to the coolant jug. Had an LS vette one time with clogged steam ports, it ran hot. Had lots of parts replaced until I got it and found the ports clogged. Older LS's used 4 steam ports, probably better. Can't wait for the first start!
I hope you take the same care and creativity with the interior. It SHOULD be spectacular and in keeping with the rest of the work. Many do amazing work and then throw the reupholstered old interior back in. That would be a real shame.
@@JohnReynolds661 I fantasize about a full tilt luxo custom interior in a corvair. There is a real opportunity in the interior engine cover. Porsche put all the sound insulation on the engine side of the permanent fire wall. It is almost impossible to reattach/replace. Just a thought.
I'd definately insulate the fuel lines and leave the tunnel open so the airflow under the car can help to cool the coolant pipes some, that said, i don't like the air filter under the car, if you ever drive into even 10 inches of water you will have a very expensive bill to repair the engine, things like pistons, conrods and maybe even the block when it hydraulic locks and a rod bends and comes out the side of the block, forewarned is fore armed.
You might be better off putting the radiator in the rear. Looks to be plenty of room in the back and some creative ducting might improve the rear aero the front aero is better without the rad.
Absolutely love the build, but think I would have finished all the paint/protective work on the chassis, and frame first. Are you going to tear it all down to treat those areas, or leave as is? 😎👍✌🎄🎅
@@JohnReynolds661 Ah, I just reworded my comment, but the same applies. It just seems easier to do all that work beforehand, and then have a few areas that may need a respray due to work done after the paint/protective coating applications. I've never rebuilt a car so what do I know! 😁 I can't wait for the completion to see how it all works together. Your fabrication skills are fantastic. She's going to look excellent when done! 👍✌🎄🎅
Long time fan and technician here. I don't know what diagrams your looking at but definitely not going to work right. Move the one from the cap that is the one that lets fluid out when the cap reaches the rated pressure and hook it to the bottom. Put a bleeder at the radiator connector. The line at the top of the tank is a vent to atmosphere so run it out the bottom. Get rid of the other line all together. It actually isn't steam coming out it is solid fluid with air mixed at first. Once the air is purged while hot top it off about 50-70% of the tank. It's a big tank so make it where you want. Wait till it cools and check again for a low mark. After a few heat cycles and the air is out of the system it will stay at a certain area(unknown at first)when hot and cold. Can't wait to see it run and drive!!
The line in the most question is the after-cap line. I can change it around easy enough. The line from the top of the radiator to the top of the tank is also question, especially since it travels underneath the car but that's how the GT40 routs it. I might just eliminate that line and put a bleeder on the radiator. I have a Subaru powered VW bug so I have some knowledge. What I found is that the best is a self-purging system. Anything else requires a few heat cycles to bleed.
If your going to close up the channel I'd insulate the fuel lines to prevent any possible issues. I'd also put louvers in the front to scoop up air and push it into the channel and have the back open to help vent the heat. Just my .02 worth. Love the build and I must say, your one hell of a fantastic fabricator.
Both good ideas.
@@JohnReynolds661 can the fuel line be run beside the rockers instead of with radiator tubes? The hot tube is going to expand quite a bit. But I really enjoy seeing the engineer in you over-ruling (usually) the bean counter in you. Beautiful work!
I have no idea why this project is not more viral than the Binky vids. It is more relatable and useful to the followers . Thanks for the build. The only reason, and it fails my analogy, is that we never know when to expect a release.
I keep trying but so far have not cracked the code. Still fun to make videos though.
Surely more frequent than Binky
me neither. I share them as much as possible.
I've never heard of binky so everyone may juhavve a unique audience
1969 Culver City California I saw a Corvair with a L88 in the backseat running a turbo 425 in the back
Great progress. So much incredible workmanship. I have to say this is the most love I’ve ever seen put into hot rodding a Corvair. Outstanding job!
Fabulous build videos - thank you! I found the brief snippets of the clever use of your digital level to determine the angle of the tank mounting tube, which then was transposed to the digital angle gauge - particularly clever and not something I would have thought of. Can't wait to hear it run!
Very nice plumbing! I’m a little resistant to give advice to a man with your skills, but I’d move the fuel lines as far away from the exhaust as practical and insulate them. Really enjoying this build. Thanks.
Your progress is always great to see. Take your time, and we'll wait. Thank you.
Hi John, I'll definitely be back for the startup video, loving how it's looking. It'll be insane, can't wait.
Take care now.
I'm always way impressed with your work. I've wondered how someone would do a good v8 conversion on a corvair, and once again, you knocked it out of the park. Thank you for doing well, what others cobble together, and showing what taking your time, and packaging it so elegantly. WOW!!
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So looking forward to the start up video. Whenever that may come out. Awesome craftsmanship my dear friend.
I sure do miss my '66 moza spider vert. Paid 2500 and she was cherry. That was in '87! Been looking again they've gone up a bit.
Always happy to see one of your videos in my feed!
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John amazing work , what you are doing isn't the easiest transformation . Good luck with the rest of the build , can't wait to see it in action .
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Always enjoy whatever you bless us with to share and see on the Tube. The car is so well planned out and super clean. Looking forward to the day a post is up of the beast in full song. Love it. Thank you, take care and peace out.
You are doing a great job, we have a Lotus Europa that uses a bleed valve high up on the top of the engine and one in front on the top of the rad to help bleed the air out.
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Your attention to detail is bar far the best of any DIY builder I have ever seen. As for the fuel and coolant tubes running together I would insulate the fuel lines and add cooling inlets and outlets to the center cover. I have watched all of your videos of this build. Excellent. Thanks.
Thanks 👍
You've got my rubber stamp of approval,well thought out,hoses and lines appear to be routed beautifully,just a well thought out build,looking forward to the next video🤗😎🤗😎
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John I see nothing wrong with anything you’ve done with this car , what a fantastic build looking forward to the startup video, great job
John, once again, all I can say, awesome awesome awesome. The only thing better than watching these fantastic videos is if we could be there watching you do your magic. Love the build just like I did when I watched you build the VW. I know there’s a lot of work ahead and more videos, but can you give us a clue on what the next project might be. they just keep getting better.
Thanks, I was going to do something electric, but it seems everyone is doing that now. Anyway, two projects that come to mind are a GT40 or C2 Corvette - both would be of the kit car version.
@@JohnReynolds661 maybe awd electric C2. I think you could knock it out of the ballpark.
Amazing attention to detail. Thank you for sharing your dream. We appreciate what you are doing. 😊
Even with the simple things, your fabrication work is always beautiful. Well done 👍
Your expansion tank/cooling system plumbing is so complicated, I'm glad my Corvair is air cooled :D Seriously, wonderful top notch craftsmanship as usual, thanks for the video :)
Echoing/adding to others' thoughts about the cover, I like the ideas of insulating the fuel lines and ducting air past the coolant lines.
Maybe this could be effectively accomplished by adding two vertical partitions between the inner coolant chase and outer fuel chase, temporarily wrapping/masking the fuel lines and clamps, and surrounding areas, then filling the resulting outer chases with expanding insulation foam. This would give you two molded chambers with all available space insulated while still retaining access to the lines and fittings.
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Beatification right there - thanks for the update. So looking forward to your next installment John (whenever you’re ready, of course) 👍👍😎👍👍
Hi John, I really love this project and how unique it is. Anxiously awaiting your next video as well as your future projects!
I have watched your project from the start . I don’t know who is going to be more excited when you get her on the road , me or you ? 😀
Very cool as always, thanks for sharing. Love your attention to detail.
Kinda sad to see it running since i really love watching you work on this car can't wait to see it running but it's part of my routine gone it's gonna be a bitter sweet moment
The videos will go on for a bit after it's running/driving. At some point, it's on to the next project.
Looks like you still have room for the air conditioner lines in the tunnel under the car. Love the build. I have a 1968 covered and undriven for over 20 years, same on me.
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I sure hope you make a video of you working this car hard at a road course so we can all enjoy watching all your precise efforts perform as good as they look. I think it will be a road burner.
Looking forward to the start up video...
Super amazing work.
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For the underbody cover for the fuel & coolant lines, you could do inlet and outlet NACA ducts. Besides cooling the all the pipes and maybe keeping some heat from radiating up into the cabin, we can all watch you custom make ducts.
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a long time ago in a far away town, some friends and I were going to build up a standard boat trailer to haul a bunch of Lasers (sailboats). we bought a used aircraft generator, and crudely mounted that to an old Austin car motor (that was wobbling around on wood blocks) on a cheesy bracket. we used a Canadian hockey stick to pry the generator pulley and tighten the belt. the output was used to stick weld. we started this the day before hitting the road to Montreal. the welder would call "power !" I would open the throttle and tighten the belt by prying with the hockey stick. our buddy who was sorta helping by watching said "but what colour are we going to paint it ?" somebody will ask you the same question.
Funny story. Yes, the people not really into the mechanical aspect of the car want to know what color it will be painted.
Been a long time cousin...you have me looking forward to the next one, thanks!
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Love it John. Really looking forward to hearing this run and seeing how it drives.
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Really like what you do. Impressed with everything. Thank you!
for the expansion tank, all three top hoses should be submerged in fluids : but far enough from the bottom hose (that goes to the engine suction side)
great work, thanks for sharing...
I wish I had your shop tools and you had a feather in your Trunk, we'd both be tickled. I love the time you spend with routing and brackets. You know the inside diameter of a -6 is not very big. I always used 8 to 12's to assure good flow. Air moving over those lines, except when idling, should prevent fuel issues. Otherwise looks great!!
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Awesome, thoughtful and well crafted. I find your work inspiring.
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Watching your work is like watching my friend Tim's. A while back he built a Merkur with a 5 liter ford engine and turbo charged. He made it all wheel drive using the transfer case from a GMC Cyclone. The oil pan is a structural part that holds the driveshaft. for the right front. Now he's on a venture to make a Mustang all wheel drive. His RUclips is 'No production value Garage"
Your attention to detail is outstanding!
Man this is EPIC!!
I can't wait to see this thing on the road.
Regards,
Duck
fantastic attention to detail! Such a great project.
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Great video John! I can’t wait to see and hear this running! Hopefully it makes Nader roll over in his grave.😂
I like the routing. Very efficient! Great Job!
Looking forward to it.
There is more attention to detail on this build than was on the last trip to the moon.
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Another video of awesome craftsmanship. 👍👍
Very impressed with your fab work. Just thought I'd mention this, I seem to recall thermo-shock issues with the Pontiac Fiero having the radiator in the front & mid engine layout. Not sure if this will cause you any problems.
We’ll see, I’m going to try and start it tomorrow.
Amazing work JR
Come on, come on,…fire it up!😄
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The expansion tank should have a ‘dip tube’ inside the tank attached to the fitting which will allow the radiator to suck fluid back as the system cools down. The dip tube should reach almost to the bottom of the tank so it won’t pick up air or steam as you mentioned.
It does seem like it should have a "straw" inside to draw the water from the bottom.
You’re thinking of an overflow bottle which works the way you explain. Overflow bottles are unpressurized. Usually with an expansion tank, the steam port would go to the top of the tank and the system would draw fluid from the bottom, into the water pump inlet. This also helps to get air bubbles to the tank. The idea being that the radiator remains full and the expansion tank is at its fullest when the engine is at operating temperature.
Yeah, this expansion tank doesn't have a straw. But I could easily tie it into the bottom.
Dip tube on return from expansion? Like liquid line on refrigerant cylinder versus vapor off top.
Magnificent and creative 💪🏼💪🏼👍👍
Re: expansion tank In my experience the cap vent line, in a system with a pressurized expansion tank (not an unpressurized overflow tank) works only to vent excess pressure out of the sealed system. If both sides of the cap are seeing the same pressure, as they are hooked up now, the cap will not function as intended because there is no differential pressure. I know you don’t want to vent coolant, so the expansion tank needs enough head room to accommodate the expanded coolant without running out of space and venting fluid out that line. All that to say, I think that cap vent line goes to atmosphere.
You do fantastic work fabricating that "hybrid". Regarding the cooling system.......since the expansion tank also serves as a condensor for any steam in the system, some cooling should be considered. Maybe, at a minimum, a large heat sink attached to the expansion tank.
(Speculation to follow)
I think if you add both the before and after the cap to water (when dumping) it could start a syphoning loop?
Also maybe it expands less well since water doesn't compress?
And it drives more water (other than the steam) into a less cooled loop?
The cap isn't a the inlet, and the conflicting flows create turbulence.
And the gravity of the water in the tank drives it (now) towards the inlet of the radiator. (Which actually is a heat-exchanger)
John, the corvair is looking great. How about moving the fuel line further from the coolant lines? Seems easier and more elegant than insulating the fuel line. Fantastic work. I'm still reeling from the VW bug project.
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Hi John, As I patiently await the startup, I recently have wondered how the massive rainfall has affected your area and your home/workshop/playpen(LOL)... all the best wishes!🙃
Hi Dawn, it's raining as I type this. All the rain is always welcome as we live in a semi desert area. Won't be long on the startup!
Really admire what you do.
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Beautiful work JR.
my first car back in 1970 was a 65 corvair, wish I could find one that I could afford. Was white, blue vinyl interior, 95 hp 3 speed.
Craftsmanship as usual. Looking nice!
Radiator hoses will be 180 to 190 degrees, then you will box it? You are in California and hot summer days. I don't like fuel lines next to anything hot. Jay Leno aggrees. Would running inside rocker panels be a better place? I'm just tossing out alternative ideas. Nice work so far.
Well, my motto is keep moving forward. I'll address the lines and whether they should be insulated later. Insulating the fuel lines wouldn't be that hard but re-routing the fuel lines is two days work.
Could the floor be flat paneled with insulated lines? Then naca ducts on the quarters feeding the cai?
It would seem to protect the squishy lines of varying temperatures and keep water/other shite away from the intake.
Only ever dealt with FR setups so not sure what this advice is worth. Many experiences of hard lines being much softer than expected when a rock pops up! (also a member of the Reynolds > Binky fan club)
Yeah, I'm trying to stay away from any visual side ducts - if that's what you mean. The car will never be driving in the rain and I don't plan on any stream crossings so not really worried about water in the air filter.
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Excellent work on the plumbing John. Top shelf all the way, just like the rest of the project.
I agree about the -6 line running to the top of the expansion tank from the pressure cap, I don't like that it isn't submersed in coolant. Seems like it would allow the introduction of air into a system that shouldn't have air. Is the expansion tank's cap vented to allow atmospheric pressure in/out and prevent air lock?
As for the fuel lines, I think you'll be fine with the coolant routing as the coolant won't get near as good as day exhaust work. If it was exhaust tubing I would definitely route the fuel differently. Worse case if you experience any issues you could wrap the lines just to prevent heat transfer but I doubt a couple hundred degrees from coolant will have any negative effects.
Looking forward to the startup.
Mike
Thanks, Mike.
I Love It and can't wait to hear it start! Just curious if you've decided on a name for the car yet?
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Clearly a Jack of all trades, and a Master of All.
Just don't get me around paint or upholstery.
Amazing craftsmanship! My only question is do you have enough wiggle in the cooling systems main plumbing. With the hard lines solid mounted under the car and only short sections coupling it to the rad and engine. With heat expansion and cooling and the motor moving. Looks really good though. From my understanding with expansion tanks when it's cold the lines in coolant go to coolant the ones that don't don't. So your expansion tank should be correct because when cold there is no coolant at the rad cap. That steam line is there to allow the air to escape as the coolant expands
The engine mounts aren't solid, but they are also not real flexible either. It should be fine.
@@JohnReynolds661 perfect.
I’d worry more about fuel heating from the radiator’s proximity to the fuel cell than the lines. A sheet of foam, or even plywood, would do a lot to reduce the thermal bridge there. A temp switch somewhere in the fuel system would be good. I think the tunnel hard lines would be a minimal risk. Belt and braces? Maybe firesleeve the hardlines. The coolant pipes are acting as additional rejection area. You may want to put foam above them to minimize floor heating.
If I understand the bottle plumbing, you’ve essentially connected both sides of the radiator cap, no? The hose above the pressure cap should go to a separate, vented tank. Otherwise it’s going back to the same pressure underneath it and it can’t relieve pressure. Maybe I’m missing something. But otherwise, looks good.
There will be a barrier between the rad fan and the tank.
The -6 3/8 the that sends steam back and draw back to the system should have draw tube inside the exp tank so it can pick up the fluid as it cools down with return vacuum You’ll need to run it and figure out a level and let it find its own level between operation temp / pressure and cooled down level You want to just keep the pick up tube in the coolant level when it’s cooled down The equalizer tube that goes to the radiator should be at the bottom of the exp tank so it never gets air into as it cools down it can cause an overflow with pressure in the rad. Is the exp tank higher than the rad cap ?
Can't wait!!
Draw back to the radiator or engine comes from the bottom of the puke tank. The puke tank needs to be vented to ambient air, otherwise a vacuum occurs, not good. Also in some cases the coolant line has to be burped to make sure it doesn't cavetate. Just a thought. Has to do with coolant levels between use and supply being somewhat equal.
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Brilliant engineering applications.
Thanks for sharing your journey
Best V-8 Corvair ever. 🏆
As always a great video. I actually forgot you turbocharged the engine. How much horsepower should it actually be in the end?
Probably 700-800 wheel
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DOes the stock system employ one of these "Expansion tanks"? if so, get one from a stock car at the junk yard and cut it open with a whiz-wheel and see if theres a snorkel or straw tube on the steam line going to the bottom? was my first thought......
Looks really trick. Awesome fabrication. How about installing a line from the dash 6 to the bottom of the expansion tank? Then when the motor cools down and wants to draw coolant back in, it has something to suck besides air...
That might work. I'm going to see what happens as-is for now.
As the system cools and the pressure drops, it should feed into the engine from the bottom connection, shouldn't it?
Well, that sound plausible. I'll see how it works before I change anything.
I’d say, if you’re going to leave the channel open, probably don’t need to worry about the heat from the water lines transferring to the fuel lines. If you enclose it though, maybe it’ll be an issue? Could you channel air thru it, in case you enclose it? Even if you insulate the lines, if you enclose it, that might still trap the heat. That’s why, if you want to enclose it (which would provide protection), seems like channel air thru it and not insulating the pipes might be better?
Channeling air through it is a good idea. I think I would not insulate the coolant pipes so they could shed heat but instead insolate the fuel lines.
@@JohnReynolds661 If you want a 'relatively' inexpensive, easy-install and durable insulation for the fuel line, recommend simple spiral teflon wrap commonly found at aircraft supply houses. While billed as being for wrapping electrical, a simple wrap of about 8" completely solved a chronic hot-day-in-Texas vapor lock problem we had with a factory-setup metal fuel line running close over an intake manifold. Looking at the distances between your lines, it should work even better.
Great job well planned
Now that I think about it more, the cooling system on this car is likely to be a significant engineering hurtle. For what it’s worth, a friend who builds very high quality rod restorations for a well known shop, uses BMW electric fans because of their quality and availability. You might also consider using an auxiliary electric coolant pump to help move water. The pump on that engine may not be up to the task. Cool project none the less, I’d love to hear more about your thoughts on cooling system performance and design.
The radiator (in front) will have a pressure cap less than that on the engine. It will also have an overflow tank. Not really worried about the water pump suppling enough volume, I did the same thing on my Subaru/VW conversion. I may have to revisit some of this but will wait and see as I'm not a fan of chasing down problems that haven't existed yet. In other words, we'll see.
Neat, some large hose sizes there! Is it a journal bearing turbo? AN12 seems large for the drain. I reckon you'll be ok on the fuel line insulation too. Amazing how much time all of tge seemingly "small" details consume...always makes me laugh when I see an engine swap project where the engine is in the hole & it's called at 80%+ done....nope, more like
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Does it still have the 2 steam ports in the heads. Those usually are piped to the coolant jug. Had an LS vette one time with clogged steam ports, it ran hot. Had lots of parts replaced until I got it and found the ports clogged. Older LS's used 4 steam ports, probably better. Can't wait for the first start!
It has 4 steam ports routed to the filler neck (you can see it in the video) I agree that sometimes they plumb to the expansion tank.
@@JohnReynolds661 Those are then routed to the top of your expansion tank? Should be good to go.
It's been fun.
I can not wait !!!!!
I hope you take the same care and creativity with the interior. It SHOULD be spectacular and in keeping with the rest of the work. Many do amazing work and then throw the reupholstered old interior back in. That would be a real shame.
It will get nice upholstery not done by me.
@@JohnReynolds661 I fantasize about a full tilt luxo custom interior in a corvair. There is a real opportunity in the interior engine cover. Porsche put all the sound insulation on the engine side of the permanent fire wall. It is almost impossible to reattach/replace. Just a thought.
Y'know, this build reminds me quite a lot of Binky.
I'd definately insulate the fuel lines and leave the tunnel open so the airflow under the car can help to cool the coolant pipes some, that said, i don't like the air filter under the car, if you ever drive into even 10 inches of water you will have a very expensive bill to repair the engine, things like pistons, conrods and maybe even the block when it hydraulic locks and a rod bends and comes out the side of the block, forewarned is fore armed.
Like my VW, this car will never be driven in the rain nor do any steam crossings. I probably will insulate the fuel lines.
You're awesome! You need to just accept, that you're just awesome!
Ha, oh come on now. I'm just patient.
nice!!
Nice job! 👏 👍 I'll be back. 😊👍🏻
Last video before startup?? Can we get a wiring video please?
There will be wiring in the start up video, no doubt.
You might be better off putting the radiator in the rear.
Looks to be plenty of room in the back and some creative ducting might improve the rear aero the front aero is better without the rad.
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Could a hobbiest find a modern FWD V8 and transplant the entire unit including frame and suspension into a Corvair? Would that simplify a conversion?
I don't know about FWD but RWD, yes. It's been done where basically a Corvair body is put on various car chassis.
good job man 👍💪
You did it right if you car doesn`t overheat, sitting in traffic on a 97 degree day.
Absolutely love the build, but think I would have finished all the paint/protective work on the chassis, and frame first. Are you going to tear it all down to treat those areas, or leave as is? 😎👍✌🎄🎅
Paint is last. You never know when all the welding and fabrication is done. It all gets stripped down for paint and body.
@@JohnReynolds661 Ah, I just reworded my comment, but the same applies. It just seems easier to do all that work beforehand, and then have a few areas that may need a respray due to work done after the paint/protective coating applications. I've never rebuilt a car so what do I know! 😁 I can't wait for the completion to see how it all works together. Your fabrication skills are fantastic. She's going to look excellent when done! 👍✌🎄🎅
Is your engine hard mounted?
If not, those hoses going from filler neck on engine to the expansion tank look a tad taut and may get pulled.
It's not solid, but the engine will move very little in the mounts. I think it will be fine, thanks.
Can’t wait to hear it run. Will it be drivable I hope so.
Get it started followed by installing the seats, gas pedal, axle shafts, etc to drive it.
@@JohnReynolds661 You must be a little apprehensive as a lot of your work is theoretical in nature. I hope it drives and handles like a Ferrari.