Glad you got your daughter's car fixed . That reminds me of back in the 80's , I had a 72 Buick limited. The alternator went bad . I went to a auto parts store and got another alternator and put it on and went home. I needed to go somewhere and it would not start. So I got my battery charger and hooked it up. I keep the battery charger behind the grill for 2 weeks till I had an opportunity to exchange it for another one. The counter person argued with me in front of other customers for a half hour. He tested it on his tester and it was putting out 14.5 volts so he assumed it was working properly. I told him it may be putting out 14.5v but it was not putting out any amps and that is what changes your battery. Finally he got an idea to go and talk with the behind the parts store who had an auto shop. We agreed that if the alternator worked that I would pay for the test but if it did not work he would pay for the test and replace the alternator. I put it back together and took it around back to the shop. Shut it off and the shop guy hooked up the test equipment and ran the test. He told me to shut it down,he unhook the battery and alternator and took the alternator off, took it in the store and came back with another alternator. Put it in and hooked everything back up and run the test again. I shut it down, he unhook the test equipment and sent me on my way. He did tell me that the alternator he tested first was not putting out any amps.
'80s* But anyway... here's the thing with 'voltage'. Current flows from higher to lower potential. Always. You can't have potential difference between places on a wire without current flow.
Just tackled the same repair on my 2012 Ford Duratec V6.....looked similar to yours with the removal of dreaded AC compressor. I even went with the same Autozone Gold 250 bucks ouch....luckily it did charge the first time
Happenned to me recently. Had a 2015 Nissan pathfinder with a parasitic draw. Diodes on the alternator tested bad. I picked up a carquest unit from advanced and something made me say “let me test the diodes on this one”. Sure enough…. The new unit was defective. They argued with me at the parts store they needed to test it on their machine in order to exchange it for me even though I showed them with my multimeter. They hooked it up to the tester and it said bad alternator right away. Happy I checked the diodes on the new one prior to installation.
Kenny, it needs valve cover gaskets. Kia’s and Hyundai are notorious for leaking valve covers and the front one leaks right onto the alternator. We’ve had many repaired in our shop. Auto Zone won’t warranty them if they’re covered in oil.
I worked for a Hyundai warehouse for a time. Not dissing Kenny's daughter's purchase, but there was/is a reason that and other Hyundai facilities ship hundreds of replacement engines per day. I saw it firsthand.
I have the same meter sold under Astro brand name. I am very happy with it other than at times confusing it with my phone.😂 It could use a stand and way to hang it while crawling under a car.
Nice job and if All Data didn't provide what you need, please put it in library request so they can add to it for the next technician or yourself if needed
@Emoralis As I said in the first part of this repair always get the workshop manual for all vehicles that you purchase that way you are getting the repair information from the horses mouth so to speak.(do it every time I purchase a new to me vehicle).
I went through two new ones, and the second and third ones I had the shop test them before I left. The manufacturers dont test all of them to save money
Yes that meter, or at least that brand is available on Amazon, along with the test lead set. Do you know if that meter can test capacitors? I need that function for the A/C on my RV. Keep the good stuff coming Kenny.
Had a similar situation years ago with first generation Lexus LS-400s - the power steering pumps were notorious leakers (like Edward Snowden) and they would leak into the alternator and kill them if you didn't fix the leak in time. That was a pain Lol!
Ah yes, the infamous Hyundai V6 start-up rattle. She's gonna need timing chain tensioners sooner rather than later. Had them replaced on my 2012 Santa Fe....quieted it right up.
15V for the first 5 minutes or so from start, to both put the charge lost from the start, and to prevent the battery getting sulphated. Should settle down to 14V0 after around 2 minutes, then while driving should sit somewhere between 13V0 and 13V8, depending on outside temperature, to keep the battery fully charged.
hi Kenny if you can please put a link for the new meter and the next time you go to hft look at their metal ramps I bought a pair they work grate also Kenny do you have a link for the king bolen scanner ?
Hey Kenny, not sure if you ask questions on here or not. But I have a 09 Silverado and after changing my control arms randomly my service stabilitrac and service traction control lights come on and the truck bogs down and doesn’t want to move. Do you think wheel speed sensors could cause that? Thanks in advance
I was watching another video on here where someone diagnosed a "fault" in an earlier model Hyundai where the alternator didn't appear to be charging the battery. Well, Hyundai have a smart charging system in their cars which turns the alternator off once the battery is fully charged so as to cut down on exhaust emissions !
4:13 2 choices. Take a can of break cleen and flood the altonator cleen Or take it out and apart clean the comuntator and brushes repack the berrings put it back together and chances are it works. The replacement wasnt set up for that car.
Sometimes the centrifugal pulley on the alternator malfunctions. Giving you a no charge condition. That happened to me with an alternator that was only a year old.
Just wondering, did you fully charge the battery before starting the car with the new alternator installed ? It's good to remind people sometimes we get in a hurry with life and forget the obvious.
I know you a little that you like drama so the second video to show testing of the wiring should have been done the first time around, no drama mate, cheers. Getting my binge watching in today to get me caught up on all the latest of your videos from the last go around,
They have their own web site. I've seen a few (re-badged of some of their models in fact have 1 that's exactly the same but different badge) They are cheap but do a nice job (as in cheap for me ie $80 NZ compared to a fluke at over $400 NZ). I went for a clamp type as I needed the DC amps (max 600) function (very handy and of course it does AC as well)_
These defective parts are an agrivation I had to replace the fuel pump in my 2010 civic 4 times from oreilys 1 was a dead motor and the others had defective sending units ( gauge reading full all the time). at least I didnt have to drop the tank that realy would have been a nightmare SMH
In reality remove and install a new altnator is one labor charge plus parts, removed a brand new altenator Zthat just replaced) then re-installed an old one back is another labor charge then installed another altenator (that finally work). For labor cost alone based on labor rate@ 125 per hour in America the garage owner will walk to you and give you an "elephants look" and might give you a hard time for spending time on this job.
Bad alternator huh , think about this ; 5 new A/c compressor’s ( a/c delco brand ) on my 93 suburban with 93,000 miles. 5 compressor’s since September 2022 . Today is August 2023 ( 11 months ) 5 compressor’s. Thanks
That meter looks pretty cool. Have to consider one like it. One thing I just have to mention, and sorry but I am a bit anal about things like this is the funnel under the hood, while convenient, they collect dust/sand and debris and the only way to clean it before using with new fresh oil going into your engine is to run a rag through it to remove all the sand/debris. I am just sayin'.....
I know you wouldn't want anybody else to work on your daughter's vehicle. With today's technology in cars, it is difficult for most parents to do this for their children.
4:13 fluke 77 or 88, send it to me ill fix it. Its just probably a blowen fuse, yes they have fuses the fluke or any other brand cant be used to test amprage draw off the battery without a shunt the shunt drops the amprage 10x if you test a circuit that has i think its over 10 or 100 amps of draw the fuse blows. Ask me how i know. My old boss built cb radio linier ampfiers in the 400 to 14k watt range highly ilegal he had a shunt and he was pissed i blew the fuse before i knew better. So i had to go down to the electronics store and get a factory replacement fuse they sold Fluke products as well as serviced them. Anyway the fluke 77 or 87 or 88 is the best ditigtal multimeter for automotive work it is true RMS truse root mean square and has Anyway. Its just a fuse im pretty sure thats all youve done. A amp clamp meter would do the same thing to test a voltage leaks or do what we used to do pull one fuse at a time using a test lamp to show when the amprage draw went away. The light has to be in series when you pull the right fuse out and the draw goes away the lamp shuts off. You cant do the with a test meter without a shunt.
I'm actually amazed that the fuel pump module/sending unit I put in my 04 Envoy 6 years ago for a whopping $29 not only came in a box but had Styrofoam clamshells protecting the part. Still going and silently too. Starter and alternator were both new and surprisingly cheap. Wal-Mart also has a real human call back if you use their message thing like when an order came missing a component. They refunded the whole order. Maybe this helps someone especially in my income bracket.
I don't watch your channel to learn anything. I watch because I like to see the repair of vehicles. When you leave out removal and installation, it's disappointing.
Rebuilt alternator in the late 80s early 90s. clean the case throw it back together and put on the sticker. The second rebuilt alternator for my P.O.S. Honda worked. Shop manual for the P.O.S. Honda required you to remove the master brake cylinder. I could turn the front wheels just to the correct position to remove the alternator. I could change it in 30 min. SCREW HONDA JUNK !
Glad you got your daughter's car fixed . That reminds me of back in the 80's , I had a 72 Buick limited. The alternator went bad . I went to a auto parts store and got another alternator and put it on and went home. I needed to go somewhere and it would not start. So I got my battery charger and hooked it up. I keep the battery charger behind the grill for 2 weeks till I had an opportunity to exchange it for another one. The counter person argued with me in front of other customers for a half hour. He tested it on his tester and it was putting out 14.5 volts so he assumed it was working properly. I told him it may be putting out 14.5v but it was not putting out any amps and that is what changes your battery. Finally he got an idea to go and talk with the behind the parts store who had an auto shop. We agreed that if the alternator worked that I would pay for the test but if it did not work he would pay for the test and replace the alternator. I put it back together and took it around back to the shop. Shut it off and the shop guy hooked up the test equipment and ran the test. He told me to shut it down,he unhook the battery and alternator and took the alternator off, took it in the store and came back with another alternator. Put it in and hooked everything back up and run the test again. I shut it down, he unhook the test equipment and sent me on my way. He did tell me that the alternator he tested first was not putting out any amps.
'80s*
But anyway... here's the thing with 'voltage'. Current flows from higher to lower potential. Always. You can't have potential difference between places on a wire without current flow.
@@TonyRule the thing is I did NOT pay for either test and I got an alternator that did work and I did not pay for a replacement alternator.
@@knoester7714The real thing is voltage and current flow are inseparable.
I replaced the starter on my 89 Chevy Cheyanne 3 times in 4 days! Napa part! That was 25 years ago!
Just tackled the same repair on my 2012 Ford Duratec V6.....looked similar to yours with the removal of dreaded AC compressor. I even went with the same Autozone Gold 250 bucks ouch....luckily it did charge the first time
Happenned to me recently. Had a 2015 Nissan pathfinder with a parasitic draw. Diodes on the alternator tested bad. I picked up a carquest unit from advanced and something made me say “let me test the diodes on this one”. Sure enough…. The new unit was defective. They argued with me at the parts store they needed to test it on their machine in order to exchange it for me even though I showed them with my multimeter. They hooked it up to the tester and it said bad alternator right away. Happy I checked the diodes on the new one prior to installation.
Like me, it happens all the time. If I ever catch up with Murphy, he has a whipping coming. Nice work, and I like that meter.
I have had so many problems with alt. I now have the parts store check them before I leave.
Kenny, it needs valve cover gaskets. Kia’s and Hyundai are notorious for leaking valve covers and the front one leaks right onto the alternator. We’ve had many repaired in our shop. Auto Zone won’t warranty them if they’re covered in oil.
Chrysler products with the 3.6 too
I worked for a Hyundai warehouse for a time. Not dissing Kenny's daughter's purchase, but there was/is a reason that and other Hyundai facilities ship hundreds of replacement engines per day. I saw it firsthand.
It was the earlier V6 engines that had the valve cover leak issues. There was a recall for it.
@@michaelbolton2741 Their V6 engines are pretty stout. It's the Theta II 4-cylinders engines that are part of the class-action suit.
I have the same meter sold under Astro brand name. I am very happy with it other than at times confusing it with my phone.😂 It could use a stand and way to hang it while crawling under a car.
I had bad luck with autozone. Have them bench test before I walk out the door. SMA saved my butt a few times too. Good luck with your new adventures.
SMA and Eric O. are the best. Everybody does make mistakes Kenny so don't feel left out of this exclusive club! Another lesson learned.
Nice reader and nice meter..
Nice job and if All Data didn't provide what you need, please put it in library request so they can add to it for the next technician or yourself if needed
@Emoralis As I said in the first part of this repair always get the workshop manual for all vehicles that you purchase that way you are getting the repair information from the horses mouth so to speak.(do it every time I purchase a new to me vehicle).
Awesome video brother stay strong and God bless ❤❤❤
Great job little brother!
"love my job so much I do it twice"
fellow rainman ray's enjoyer
@@joshuac837 Gravity.....
Hey Mr Kenny I have a 1999 Honda crv IV had the same problem I found on the 3rd alt my fuse was blew
I went through two new ones, and the second and third ones I had the shop test them before I left. The manufacturers dont test all of them to save money
Glad you got it sorted🙂
Yes that meter, or at least that brand is available on Amazon, along with the test lead set. Do you know if that meter can test capacitors? I need that function for the A/C on my RV. Keep the good stuff coming Kenny.
Ive seen it before the alt dies and the batt light never comes on. Never understood why
And this is why I have my rule in play parts like this before I leave the store I have them test it
Had a similar situation years ago with first generation Lexus LS-400s - the power steering pumps were notorious leakers (like Edward Snowden) and they would leak into the alternator and kill them if you didn't fix the leak in time. That was a pain Lol!
Ah yes, the infamous Hyundai V6 start-up rattle. She's gonna need timing chain tensioners sooner rather than later. Had them replaced on my 2012 Santa Fe....quieted it right up.
I get looking at these oily engines and wonder if the connectors are compromised for continuity. Tempted to spray them clean
15V for the first 5 minutes or so from start, to both put the charge lost from the start, and to prevent the battery getting sulphated. Should settle down to 14V0 after around 2 minutes, then while driving should sit somewhere between 13V0 and 13V8, depending on outside temperature, to keep the battery fully charged.
Kenny can you make a metal sheld over the alternator our is there no room to fit it in just wondering if possible
hi Kenny if you can please put a link for the new meter and the next time you go to hft look at their metal ramps I bought a pair they work grate also Kenny do you have a link for the king bolen scanner ?
Hey Kenny, not sure if you ask questions on here or not. But I have a 09 Silverado and after changing my control arms randomly my service stabilitrac and service traction control lights come on and the truck bogs down and doesn’t want to move. Do you think wheel speed sensors could cause that? Thanks in advance
Have that seem meter. Wotks well and as goid as my fluke. Live the bright screen and auto detect.
I was watching another video on here where someone diagnosed a "fault" in an earlier model Hyundai where the alternator didn't appear to be charging the battery.
Well, Hyundai have a smart charging system in their cars which turns the alternator off once the battery is fully charged so as to cut down on exhaust emissions !
Makes absolutely no sense as it's just adding more of a load later negating and fuel savings.
Thank s
Miles and oil will have an effect. If vds is 13.5 to 14.5, Engine running, that is a good sign.
Hey kenny i had the same problem on my crv took me taking and exchanging 3 alt well my problem was a fuse
4:13 2 choices. Take a can of break cleen and flood the altonator cleen
Or take it out and apart clean the comuntator and brushes repack the berrings put it back together and chances are it works.
The replacement wasnt set up for that car.
Is engine oil traveling into alt? Is that meter just as good as fluke and cost$$ and where to buy!
Sometimes the centrifugal pulley on the alternator malfunctions. Giving you a no charge condition. That happened to me with an alternator that was only a year old.
Heard today from a Hyundai tech that the oil soaked Alternator is so common that Hyundai did a recall on it. That might’ve been covered.
dang, had to buy myself a km601, says sound level
was it just a bad rebuilt alternator?
Just wondering, did you fully charge the battery before starting the car with the new alternator installed ? It's good to remind people sometimes we get in a hurry with life and forget the obvious.
I know you a little that you like drama so the second video to show testing of the wiring should have been done the first time around, no drama mate, cheers. Getting my binge watching in today to get me caught up on all the latest of your videos from the last go around,
If that is your beautiful granddaughter 's mothers car you better fix it right. She is so precious.
Don't forget the connector to the A/C compressor
They have their own web site. I've seen a few (re-badged of some of their models in fact have 1 that's exactly the same but different badge) They are cheap but do a nice job (as in cheap for me ie $80 NZ compared to a fluke at over $400 NZ). I went for a clamp type as I needed the DC amps (max 600) function (very handy and of course it does AC as well)_
it is a awesome meter i have 2 of them
Good old Some Data
I do not trust parts from Auto Zone,sell the cheapest junk out there that get replaced a lot
Yea stopped going to auto zone because of junk parts and kids not knowing anything about cars at all
These defective parts are an agrivation I had to replace the fuel pump in my 2010 civic 4 times from oreilys 1 was a dead motor and the others had defective sending units ( gauge reading full all the time). at least I didnt have to drop the tank that realy would have been a nightmare SMH
Hate those returns, do it twice jobs👎 ! 🤣 one and done is more satisfying !👍
In reality remove and install a new altnator is one labor charge plus parts, removed a brand new altenator Zthat just replaced) then re-installed an old one back is another labor charge then installed another altenator (that finally work). For labor cost alone based on labor rate@ 125 per hour in America the garage owner will walk to you and give you an "elephants look" and might give you a hard time for spending time on this job.
Screw that charge him twice.
So you had a bad brand new aultinater .
Put a cover over the alternator
Bad alternator huh , think about this ; 5 new A/c compressor’s ( a/c delco brand ) on my 93 suburban with 93,000 miles. 5 compressor’s since September 2022 . Today is August 2023 ( 11 months ) 5 compressor’s. Thanks
That meter looks pretty cool. Have to consider one like it.
One thing I just have to mention, and sorry but I am a bit anal about things like this is the funnel under the hood, while convenient, they collect dust/sand and debris and the only way to clean it before using with new fresh oil going into your engine is to run a rag through it to remove all the sand/debris. I am just sayin'.....
No trip to Mexico 😂
Jesus Kenny, get a fing tripod!
I know you wouldn't want anybody else to work on your daughter's vehicle. With today's technology in cars, it is difficult for most parents to do this for their children.
Duralast gold? Junk Go oem. Times have changed aftermarket is all junk now. You can file a labor claim with parts store.
4:13 fluke 77 or 88, send it to me ill fix it. Its just probably a blowen fuse, yes they have fuses the fluke or any other brand cant be used to test amprage draw off the battery without a shunt the shunt drops the amprage 10x if you test a circuit that has i think its over 10 or 100 amps of draw the fuse blows.
Ask me how i know. My old boss built cb radio linier ampfiers in the 400 to 14k watt range highly ilegal he had a shunt and he was pissed i blew the fuse before i knew better.
So i had to go down to the electronics store and get a factory replacement fuse they sold Fluke products as well as serviced them.
Anyway the fluke 77 or 87 or 88 is the best ditigtal multimeter for automotive work it is true RMS truse root mean square and has
Anyway. Its just a fuse im pretty sure thats all youve done.
A amp clamp meter would do the same thing to test a voltage leaks or do what we used to do pull one fuse at a time using a test lamp to show when the amprage draw went away. The light has to be in series when you pull the right fuse out and the draw goes away the lamp shuts off. You cant do the with a test meter without a shunt.
Can't alternators be bench tested?
Parts stores have bench testers but not many shops do.
@@GeekBoyMN Kinda my point. I worked a parts store for a while in the 70s. We bench tested for customers coming in and tested everything going out.
The computer controls all the charging commands 😮nough said
@@Joshoptimus How does the parts store determine if a return is actually defective?
Nowadays your waranty is dependent on the price you pay for the box. Same crap quality, better looking box.
I'm actually amazed that the fuel pump module/sending unit I put in my 04 Envoy 6 years ago for a whopping $29 not only came in a box but had Styrofoam clamshells protecting the part. Still going and silently too. Starter and alternator were both new and surprisingly cheap. Wal-Mart also has a real human call back if you use their message thing like when an order came missing a component. They refunded the whole order. Maybe this helps someone especially in my income bracket.
I don't watch your channel to learn anything. I watch because I like to see the repair of vehicles. When you leave out removal and installation, it's disappointing.
Please get a tripod.
Surakarta gold isn’t a great alternator. Reman Chinese parts junk
Rebuilt alternator in the late 80s early 90s. clean the case throw it back together and put on the sticker. The second rebuilt alternator for my P.O.S. Honda worked. Shop manual for the P.O.S. Honda required you to remove the master brake cylinder. I could turn the front wheels just to the correct position to remove the alternator. I could change it in 30 min. SCREW HONDA JUNK !