Ever since I finally bought a Power Probe, it has become indispensable for me in the garage. Any kind of electrical work I do now, my Power Probe is right next to me
If you're looking for a soldering clamp that will change your life check out the AST WSC15. I used to be a police mechanic and the crazy amounts of wiring and soldering I had to do on the interceptors and motorcycles made any advantage invaluable.
That is in the works as well. Once we wrap up this series and do a much needed one on control cables we'll return for an indepth of our process from beginning to end.
Some people say a Power Probe is the next big thing since sliced bread, others say it's a massively overpriced test light. It would be awesome for you guys to look into it and report back. But you don't seem to do reviews of things you test and find wanting, which is cool. Rich Rebuilds swears by the Innovative Products Of America 8048 HD Fleet Technician's Electrical Terminal Maintenance Set, but then he's working only on Teslas, so I imagine it gets much more of a workout than you guys typically engage in. Keep up the great work!
I'm curious about the Power Probe myself. When we do talk about tools we generally try to consider the typical user and a lot of garage builders are not prepared to drop big bucks on a meter. In instances like this we try to find one that may not be perfect but at least offers good quality and value for the money.
A video on connectors and loom organisation would be handy. How not to end up with a ton of connections in the same place, pros/cons of using superseal etc.
This is in the works right now. There is so much involved in getting a video like that right so that nothing is left out. We've got some other videos in the pipeline before you'll see that series but it's coming.
I would love to see you guys talk about going about wiring you bike with preexisting wiring with the m unit blue. I just purchased one to install on my 2000 Ducati monster and it feels a little daunting and I’m wondering how much you can keep in those situations where there is so much in place already. It feels like I should be ripping everything out and starting from scratch but I also think having some order of operations would be best. Thanks for all the time you guys put into content
juan canito in previous videos they said there’s no reason to cut up a perfectly running bike to ram stuff into the wiring. But I get your probably going after the Bluetooth and I don’t blame you. That being said, I don’t think they will have a video since they don’t mess with a lot of factory bikes. From what they list for sale on their site. Most builds have all new wiring.
A good place to start is by studying the guides in our Knowledge Base. There is a wiring theory guide that outlines our process and what is involved. This is something that should start at your kitchen table before moving out to the workbench. technicalarticles.revivalcycles.com/hc/en-us
Snap on does pins for backprobing, think they’re around $30aud so cheap as! Definitely took place of the trusty paper clip. Also I mentioned in another comment Milwaukee battery soldering iron !
how do you solve the issue of an aftermarket brake perch not having a front brake switch input/mount? Would you recommend an inline switch (in the cable) or fabricating a mount to the aftermarket perch for a normally closed momentary push button?
There are several pressure switches that are built into a banjo bolt that work perfectly for this. I put one on the rear brake of one of my bikes. Edit: Looks like Revival sells one. Awesome! shop.revivalcycles.com/hydraulic-brake-light-switch/
Quick question, would you terminate all wires going in/coming out of a Motogadget m.unit with ferrules? Or do you strip them and put them in the m.unit connectors directly? Cheers!
Most Snap On tools are great professional tools but they're expensive and not necessarily within every garage builders budget. We're doing our best to try and find tools that will work as well or close to it while not emptying your wallet in the process.
Can anyone help me.ive been on this wiring all week.i got a 1988 custom chopper 1340 80cc need a wire diagram for the battery all power to the ignition to stator rectifier to the two spark plug coil atomic ignition too the voltage regulator. I'm pulling my hair out all week.need awire schematic for the whole thing
Hey Brandon, the truth is that no one is going to be able to give you a comprehensive diagram for all of those specific components, there just isn't a paint by numbers solution to this. A huge part of this project is gathering together the instructions for all of your bits and drawing your own wire diagram and ideally that would be completed before you ever start laying the wire. If you visit our knowledge base you can find some universal diagrams that will help you lay out the controls and wiring that is the same for every bike and you'll find a guide to help instruct you on how to complete the portions that are unique to your project. technicalarticles.revivalcycles.com/hc/en-us
question about connectors. I'm looking at swapping my start/stop switch on my race bike. What type of connectors do I need to make it look full factory.
Rick Crespo You’re asking a super broad question. “To look factory” you use whatever your bike has on it. If you’re looking for Yamaha look you use Yamaha stuff. The closest anyone could probably get you is, use whatever connector your electrical stuff already has on it. If it’s raw wires the. use bullet style connectors. Waterproof means higher quality usually. If it’s permanent you solder it and the. Heat shrink over it. Electrical tape is cheap and temporary. ((Dual layer heat shrink is supposedly better. It’s sticky on the inside. I got some today in fact)). The one thing I feel like you NEED to know is that there are two levels of connectors for sale. ((I’m talking about the flat male and female style)) There are the normal slide wire in and crush on. These are straight trash. The better ones look almost the exact same but require two steps. You slide the wire in. You crimp the cable in and then you crimp the connector slightly farther down onto the wires plastic housing. I’ll be honest. I’ve never used the better type but I know for a fact they last way longer and are much higher quality while costing the exact same. Just more work. There may be a bullet pin equivalent. The big difference is that wires don’t slip out.
Shae did most the work for me. If you need OEM connectors Corsa Technic is a good place to start your search. www.corsa-technic.com/ Anytime we're using and mind of crimp on connector we prefer Crimp/Solder/Seal terminals which secure the wire with both a crimp and solder then add an additional layer of vibrational dampening and water seal with integrated heat shrink.
Right on!!! You guys are right to the point and good at it! Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Ever since I finally bought a Power Probe, it has become indispensable for me in the garage. Any kind of electrical work I do now, my Power Probe is right next to me
This right here was one of the best things I threw in my toolbox for wiring. I had no idea they existed until my neighbor was using one. Game changer.
Same here
If you're looking for a soldering clamp that will change your life check out the AST WSC15. I used to be a police mechanic and the crazy amounts of wiring and soldering I had to do on the interceptors and motorcycles made any advantage invaluable.
I grew up messing around with electrical stuff. I need to step up my game and gain these skills.
Are you guys planning an actual build?
A look into the planning, and execution of a complete wiring project.
Would be something I'd love to watch.
That is in the works as well. Once we wrap up this series and do a much needed one on control cables we'll return for an indepth of our process from beginning to end.
Some people say a Power Probe is the next big thing since sliced bread, others say it's a massively overpriced test light. It would be awesome for you guys to look into it and report back. But you don't seem to do reviews of things you test and find wanting, which is cool. Rich Rebuilds swears by the Innovative Products Of America 8048 HD Fleet Technician's Electrical Terminal Maintenance Set, but then he's working only on Teslas, so I imagine it gets much more of a workout than you guys typically engage in. Keep up the great work!
I'm curious about the Power Probe myself. When we do talk about tools we generally try to consider the typical user and a lot of garage builders are not prepared to drop big bucks on a meter. In instances like this we try to find one that may not be perfect but at least offers good quality and value for the money.
A video on connectors and loom organisation would be handy. How not to end up with a ton of connections in the same place, pros/cons of using superseal etc.
This is in the works right now. There is so much involved in getting a video like that right so that nothing is left out. We've got some other videos in the pipeline before you'll see that series but it's coming.
Knowing which crumpet to use and when would be great. Love the videos. Oh and just ordered some parts from your guys.
Hi guys. Thanks for the overview of what kit you use. Looking forwards to the in-depth descriptions of each item.
You bet! It's coming.
I would love to see you guys talk about going about wiring you bike with preexisting wiring with the m unit blue. I just purchased one to install on my 2000 Ducati monster and it feels a little daunting and I’m wondering how much you can keep in those situations where there is so much in place already. It feels like I should be ripping everything out and starting from scratch but I also think having some order of operations would be best. Thanks for all the time you guys put into content
juan canito in previous videos they said there’s no reason to cut up a perfectly running bike to ram stuff into the wiring. But I get your probably going after the Bluetooth and I don’t blame you. That being said, I don’t think they will have a video since they don’t mess with a lot of factory bikes. From what they list for sale on their site. Most builds have all new wiring.
A good place to start is by studying the guides in our Knowledge Base. There is a wiring theory guide that outlines our process and what is involved. This is something that should start at your kitchen table before moving out to the workbench.
technicalarticles.revivalcycles.com/hc/en-us
I would also recommend a non-contact voltage tester. Great for figuring out if you’ve got current when you can’t access the connection point.
Snap on does pins for backprobing, think they’re around $30aud so cheap as! Definitely took place of the trusty paper clip. Also I mentioned in another comment Milwaukee battery soldering iron !
Love your videos 👍🏻
Glad you like them!
Hello! Is that Husqvarna 401 Svartpilen at 4:57? some custom work...i would like to see more details if thats the case..! peace
We'll certainly be doing a feature on it once it's been completed 👍
how do you solve the issue of an aftermarket brake perch not having a front brake switch input/mount? Would you recommend an inline switch (in the cable) or fabricating a mount to the aftermarket perch for a normally closed momentary push button?
Graig Cameron email them
There are several pressure switches that are built into a banjo bolt that work perfectly for this. I put one on the rear brake of one of my bikes.
Edit: Looks like Revival sells one. Awesome!
shop.revivalcycles.com/hydraulic-brake-light-switch/
Quick question, would you terminate all wires going in/coming out of a Motogadget m.unit with ferrules? Or do you strip them and put them in the m.unit connectors directly? Cheers!
For me minimaly a ferrule and if possible a crimped and heat shrinked ring terminal.
Can you boys recommend a good soldering iron, or what to look for when getting one?
Hakko. They are really fantastic.
Milwaukee does a great battery operated one
@@dustyeylward4652 Great! A new tool that I need. I love the Milwaukee battery operated tire pump.
Does Revival sell the terminal removal tool kit?
Where can I buy that hat? I want one with a Revival logo/patch.
The snap on test light I have also reads voltage. Its the shit
Most Snap On tools are great professional tools but they're expensive and not necessarily within every garage builders budget. We're doing our best to try and find tools that will work as well or close to it while not emptying your wallet in the process.
Can anyone help me.ive been on this wiring all week.i got a 1988 custom chopper 1340 80cc need a wire diagram for the battery all power to the ignition to stator rectifier to the two spark plug coil atomic ignition too the voltage regulator. I'm pulling my hair out all week.need awire schematic for the whole thing
Hey Brandon, the truth is that no one is going to be able to give you a comprehensive diagram for all of those specific components, there just isn't a paint by numbers solution to this. A huge part of this project is gathering together the instructions for all of your bits and drawing your own wire diagram and ideally that would be completed before you ever start laying the wire. If you visit our knowledge base you can find some universal diagrams that will help you lay out the controls and wiring that is the same for every bike and you'll find a guide to help instruct you on how to complete the portions that are unique to your project. technicalarticles.revivalcycles.com/hc/en-us
question about connectors. I'm looking at swapping my start/stop switch on my race bike. What type of connectors do I need to make it look full factory.
Rick Crespo You’re asking a super broad question. “To look factory” you use whatever your bike has on it. If you’re looking for Yamaha look you use Yamaha stuff. The closest anyone could probably get you is, use whatever connector your electrical stuff already has on it. If it’s raw wires the. use bullet style connectors. Waterproof means higher quality usually. If it’s permanent you solder it and the. Heat shrink over it. Electrical tape is cheap and temporary. ((Dual layer heat shrink is supposedly better. It’s sticky on the inside. I got some today in fact)). The one thing I feel like you NEED to know is that there are two levels of connectors for sale. ((I’m talking about the flat male and female style)) There are the normal slide wire in and crush on. These are straight trash. The better ones look almost the exact same but require two steps. You slide the wire in. You crimp the cable in and then you crimp the connector slightly farther down onto the wires plastic housing. I’ll be honest. I’ve never used the better type but I know for a fact they last way longer and are much higher quality while costing the exact same. Just more work. There may be a bullet pin equivalent. The big difference is that wires don’t slip out.
Shae did most the work for me. If you need OEM connectors Corsa Technic is a good place to start your search. www.corsa-technic.com/
Anytime we're using and mind of crimp on connector we prefer Crimp/Solder/Seal terminals which secure the wire with both a crimp and solder then add an additional layer of vibrational dampening and water seal with integrated heat shrink.
Frankly I would guess you have much more tools in action. What´s about a heatgun, tweezers, different testing probes and so on. Probably a scope.
Do a how to wire a headlight 3 way toggle switch for low and high beam. There isn’t one RUclips video explaining this for a motorcycle
magnetic alligator clip vise/ magnetic double roach clip ;D
And with the magnetic base you don't even have to worry about dropping it in your lap.
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻