peter, this is fantastic. exactly the kind of thing i want to learn. thank you for that. would really love an in depth how to video instead of just a five minute quick overview.
I have been watching your blog ever since you were in Michigan and really enjoy your designing and building of layouts. I have a couple of questions, do you solder ALL joints of the flex track or do you leave rail joiners only every so often? I know that you have to put short pieces of track to disassemble the layouts for shipping but can the straight aways go without soldering? Also what would you recommend the track spacing is on a 2 track main on a dog bone layout with 4 tracks on the straight? Looking forward to your next installment!
It is important to leave expansion gaps at least every 6' but more often is fine. I don't solder joints unless I need to or if I have short pieces of track that I don't want to install another pair of feeders for. Every piece of rail needs its own feeder. Do not rely on rail joiners for current. Don't ever put short pieces of track across section joints. Instead, cut the rails right at the joint and remove two ties to provide enough space to slide the rail joiner out of the way. Put loose ties in the gap after reassembly but before ballasting.
The toggle switches will isolate each individual track so that we don't end up with dozens of locomotives with their sound systems blaring away while not in use. Each staging track will be switched off except when we want to run a train in or out of it.
thanks for sharing, also do you make custom code 100 'Y' switches ? my rather large MN&S RY. layout project could use two " Y " turnouts with a 26' R. Just inquiring.
I plan to do a more detailed video when I get to the appropriate part of the build. This panel was only intended to be a "proof of concept". Zeus gets plenty of belly rubs.
peter, this is fantastic. exactly the kind of thing i want to learn. thank you for that. would really love an in depth how to video instead of just a five minute quick overview.
I plan to do a more detailed video when I get to the appropriate part of the build.
Thanks for your videos ❤❤
I like this kind of automation👌
The routing is excellent. Can you do a Video to show exactly how the routing works and what components are required??
Just what I was about to ask! Trying hard to get my head around all the possible connections to those buttons
@@steamfan007 Great minds think alike 😊👍
I plan to do a more detailed video when I get to the appropriate part of the build. This panel was only intended to be a "proof of concept".
Great stuff 👏
Very nice. I do the same thing, but with diode ladders on my old tortoise machines. Always fun to hear multiple run at the same time.
Great stuff
Everyone needs that setup Good job.
I like the automatic routing and would be interested to see how you set that up.
I plan to do a more detailed video when I get to the appropriate part of the build. This panel was only intended to be a "proof of concept".
How brilliant!
Excellent.
Where can one buy the red/green LED Push buttons?
Go to N3ix.com
I have been watching your blog ever since you were in Michigan and really enjoy your designing and building of layouts. I have a couple of questions, do you solder ALL joints of the flex track or do you leave rail joiners only every so often? I know that you have to put short pieces of track to disassemble the layouts for shipping but can the straight aways go without soldering? Also what would you recommend the track spacing is on a 2 track main on a dog bone layout with 4 tracks on the straight? Looking forward to your next installment!
It is important to leave expansion gaps at least every 6' but more often is fine. I don't solder joints unless I need to or if I have short pieces of track that I don't want to install another pair of feeders for. Every piece of rail needs its own feeder. Do not rely on rail joiners for current. Don't ever put short pieces of track across section joints. Instead, cut the rails right at the joint and remove two ties to provide enough space to slide the rail joiner out of the way. Put loose ties in the gap after reassembly but before ballasting.
@@mpeterll Thank you for your information. I like the layout that you had in Michigan, it's just the right size for what I would like to do.
@@mpeterll Thankyou Peter!
Nice.
Neat! I didn't get what the switches are there for though
The toggle switches will isolate each individual track so that we don't end up with dozens of locomotives with their sound systems blaring away while not in use. Each staging track will be switched off except when we want to run a train in or out of it.
Will the rolling stock need wheel set resistors for detection when locos have crossed into the next block?
Resistor wheel-sets will be required for block occupancy detection, but not for the operation of anything on the control panels.
@ Ok, thank you. I sure do love this build!
thanks for sharing, also do you make custom code 100 'Y' switches ? my rather large MN&S RY. layout project could use two " Y " turnouts with a 26' R. Just inquiring.
I don't build any code-100 turnouts. I do code-83 & code-70 and a more limited selection of codse-55.
as a folow up to my last question could you price out the turn outs with code 83 ??
I like the setup, what is Robin’s web site?
N3ix.com
please do more in depth video of how this works and give Zeus the inspector a belly rub from me
I plan to do a more detailed video when I get to the appropriate part of the build. This panel was only intended to be a "proof of concept".
Zeus gets plenty of belly rubs.