This is going to be a truly spectacular layout. I enjoy seeing your efforts to get things perfectly level, plumb, and square. I hope Peter’s builder does the same. You do excellent work and put the level of precision into each part, even the lower staging yard. I’m looking forward to this entire build.
Wow - hard to believe that the project is finally under way! It just looks awesome. Also, will be onsite with the builder on February 1 so will confirm all the final dimensions according to the template and send them to you by February 2nd or 3rd .
All these years I've been watching you, amazed with every new start, and every finish. That shop is beautiful. Your precision on everything you do speaks to your character. Even though it was not to be seen you still correct the smallest of error. And then the shop inspector comes along! Have a great week, I won't be going away,!
Hi Peter, hearing your comments about whether you had calculated correctly to give yourself enough room to move about the framework, and you may have reasons for not doing so but could I make a suggestion of maybe painting or taping a grid on your workshop floor, one colour (color) for imperial feet and another for metric (assuming you work in both) to allow for easier laying out/positioning? Just a suggestion/observation/thought! Hope you actually get to come here to Australia for the installation (even though I’m in Central Victoria, about 11 hours from Sydney). Love your work and eagerly awaiting your uploads each week. Cheers from down under mate.
That would take hours to do and only save minutes every year or so. I did try using the lines cut into the floor but it turns out that they are no where near parallel to the walls despite asking the contractor to measure them carefully.
I've been reluctant to build benchwork that thin even with baltic birch unless it was an absolute necessity. I'm wondering though now that you've spent a few months working with it if you think it's acceptably strong enough to use in other areas just for added visibility or for more practical things like clearance considerations. I know the outer rails make these modules pretty strong over the 8ft run but how about front to back along that 30" +/- depth? I'm also curious about your experience with twisting on these modules as even with glue and screws there's not a whole lot of meat to keep things from moving around. Anyway, I'm still seriously jealous of your shop space. You did a great job building it out in a practical and efficant way.
Hi Ondrew. I've only just found this comment or I would have replied to you earlier. It's only 23" between the side sills and is 2" deep with the top. This is still a deeper section proportionately than the floor joists in buildings and the joists are closer together as well - only 10" instead of 16". A lot of what I build has origins in what I learnt in the building trade, and before that, architecture and engineering classes at college.
I checked the cost of a 40' container from here to Sydney when first negotiating with the customer. It was already expensive then. It will probably be twice that much by the time we are ready to ship.
Pocket screws have to be so short that they have far less holding power than the much longer screws that I use. They are also much slower and would result in additional construction time. I purchased a pocket-hole jig a few years ago and ended up putting it back in the box before I had installed a single screw in my benchwork. Even in situations where I need to toe-screw, I don't use a pocket; just drill it in at the appropriate angle.
Thanks Peter I was just wondering, I built my layout using plywood, I watch a lot of your videos, I used pocket screws this time with glue, but my layout is a lot smaller than than the one you are building now , face screws is a lot faster, I need to check your videos on wiring a yard , which I am building now
This is going to be a great series to watch. I'm still curious to know if your plywood selection for this build is based on any import restrictions for Australia? Are you going to have to coat the wood or will the railroad have to be fumigated once it arrives into Australia?
The layout will be fumigated before it leaves the US. They pump the bug gas into the container and issue a certificate. Once that is done importation is ok. This is how they treat all new furniture etc imported into Australia.
im curious as to how this going to get to the customer and how will you deal with customs rules as austalian customs are just about as tough as they are here in nz
Worried about the weight and bringing timber into Australian Quarantine Regulations. When I was in transport seen a family devastated when they bought furniture in from overseas Quarantine made the cost so prohibitive that they destroyed the furniture at the importers then doubled whammed when told they had to pay for destruction and incineration
Customer has already checked into that. There's a gas that is used to fill the container at the port. The weight will be very low compared with the total allowed (probably less than the empty container). Personally, I'd rather it was much heavier because then it would go inside the ship instead of being perched right on top where it's vulnerable to falling overboard.
That is likely to be a few years away still. Since I moved to Tennessee, my business has taken off and I find myself very busy with the paid jobs. Once I have the workshop fully paid off, I might start taking on less work. First things first though.
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This is going to be a truly spectacular layout. I enjoy seeing your efforts to get things perfectly level, plumb, and square. I hope Peter’s builder does the same. You do excellent work and put the level of precision into each part, even the lower staging yard. I’m looking forward to this entire build.
Wow - hard to believe that the project is finally under way! It just looks awesome. Also, will be onsite with the builder on February 1 so will confirm all the final dimensions according to the template and send them to you by February 2nd or 3rd .
All these years I've been watching you, amazed with every new start, and every finish. That shop is beautiful. Your precision on everything you do speaks to your character. Even though it was not to be seen you still correct the smallest of error. And then the shop inspector comes along! Have a great week, I won't be going away,!
it looks like you'll need a bigger shop soon. you and the cutest inspector barely have enough room to walk around 🐶
hello Peter & it's is Randy and i like yours video is cool & Thanks Peter & Friends Randy
quite a workshop.
JUST WOW Peter
Hi Peter, hearing your comments about whether you had calculated correctly to give yourself enough room to move about the framework, and you may have reasons for not doing so but could I make a suggestion of maybe painting or taping a grid on your workshop floor, one colour (color) for imperial feet and another for metric (assuming you work in both) to allow for easier laying out/positioning? Just a suggestion/observation/thought! Hope you actually get to come here to Australia for the installation (even though I’m in Central Victoria, about 11 hours from Sydney). Love your work and eagerly awaiting your uploads each week. Cheers from down under mate.
That would take hours to do and only save minutes every year or so. I did try using the lines cut into the floor but it turns out that they are no where near parallel to the walls despite asking the contractor to measure them carefully.
Good shots of Zeus and his pal. Is Zeus limping a bit?
Looks like another interesting build. Two questions: is this layout the one that will be signaled? Is it a US or Australian prototype?
nice! just wondering if it wouldn't be more efficient to pull some of the wiring underneath before putting the tops on.
There are pros and cons. I've done it both ways.
I've been reluctant to build benchwork that thin even with baltic birch unless it was an absolute necessity. I'm wondering though now that you've spent a few months working with it if you think it's acceptably strong enough to use in other areas just for added visibility or for more practical things like clearance considerations. I know the outer rails make these modules pretty strong over the 8ft run but how about front to back along that 30" +/- depth? I'm also curious about your experience with twisting on these modules as even with glue and screws there's not a whole lot of meat to keep things from moving around. Anyway, I'm still seriously jealous of your shop space. You did a great job building it out in a practical and efficant way.
Hi Ondrew. I've only just found this comment or I would have replied to you earlier.
It's only 23" between the side sills and is 2" deep with the top. This is still a deeper section proportionately than the floor joists in buildings and the joists are closer together as well - only 10" instead of 16". A lot of what I build has origins in what I learnt in the building trade, and before that, architecture and engineering classes at college.
I can’t even imagine the cost of shipping this layout all the way to Australia.
I moan at the shipping costs every time I order something off eBay …
I checked the cost of a 40' container from here to Sydney when first negotiating with the customer. It was already expensive then. It will probably be twice that much by the time we are ready to ship.
@@mpeterll - SYDNEY, Sydney?! I was thinking it was for a Canadian customer. 😮
Peter I have noticed you don’t use pocket screws for assembly of the frames , is there a reason for this
Pocket screws have to be so short that they have far less holding power than the much longer screws that I use. They are also much slower and would result in additional construction time. I purchased a pocket-hole jig a few years ago and ended up putting it back in the box before I had installed a single screw in my benchwork. Even in situations where I need to toe-screw, I don't use a pocket; just drill it in at the appropriate angle.
Thanks Peter I was just wondering, I built my layout using plywood, I watch a lot of your videos, I used pocket screws this time with glue, but my layout is a lot smaller than than the one you are building now , face screws is a lot faster, I need to check your videos on wiring a yard , which I am building now
This is going to be a great series to watch. I'm still curious to know if your plywood selection for this build is based on any import restrictions for Australia? Are you going to have to coat the wood or will the railroad have to be fumigated once it arrives into Australia?
The layout will be fumigated before it leaves the US. They pump the bug gas into the container and issue a certificate. Once that is done importation is ok. This is how they treat all new furniture etc imported into Australia.
@PeterTillman3 is there a layout plan for this ??
@@mattyt1250yes Peter posted a 2 part layout plan video several weeks ago
I was just wondering what program you use for your layout design videos
3rd-plan-it
im curious as to how this going to get to the customer and how will you deal with customs rules as austalian customs are just about as tough as they are here in nz
Carrier pigeon 🙂
They are notorious with checking anything containing wood
i see you have 2 foremen now
The other one is my mom's dog.
Worried about the weight and bringing timber into Australian Quarantine Regulations. When I was in transport seen a family devastated when they bought furniture in from overseas Quarantine made the cost so prohibitive that they destroyed the furniture at the importers then doubled whammed when told they had to pay for destruction and incineration
Customer has already checked into that. There's a gas that is used to fill the container at the port. The weight will be very low compared with the total allowed (probably less than the empty container). Personally, I'd rather it was much heavier because then it would go inside the ship instead of being perched right on top where it's vulnerable to falling overboard.
I see your inspector let you done on this one but maybe you just weren't lessoning close close enough 😂😂
He was sleeping that day.
@@mpeterll I see...;-)
You have to build a layout for yourself.
That is likely to be a few years away still. Since I moved to Tennessee, my business has taken off and I find myself very busy with the paid jobs. Once I have the workshop fully paid off, I might start taking on less work. First things first though.