Great video. I just started Matt surfing because after surfing since 1964 I developed peripheral neuropathy about 6 years ago and couldn’t feel my legs to keep balance. Then I saw some videos of Matt surfing, including George Greenough , and thought THIS is my vehicle back in to the water ! I bought a 4th Gear Flyer from Paul Gross , some Yucca fins and a new Ho Stevie 4/3 suit and am learning to surf from a completely different but awesome perspective. I’m loving being back in the water. Finally! I also have done artwork since I was a kid. Rick Griffin has been my inspiration since Murphy came out and forward to his and all the other Zap comic and S.F. Poster arteests of the 60’s era. I’ve learned how to use the airbrush as well. All as a hobby. Nothing professional other than some Harley tanks n fenders which I was paid for . I really admire your artwork. It’s right up my alley. Good stuff brother. As a native SoCal guy I’m just hanging at home currently in Ventura waiting on some south to generate swell this summer. I’ve spent some time in M.B. In the late 80’s. Great beach town. Maybe I’ll see ya in the water sometime or at some art gathering. Good to see us older guys still managing to stay in and love our ocean and our artistic endeavors. Keeping it alive . God bless ya ! 😎
Brilliant story... learned to surf (standup) on the super hard mats in Redondo Beach in the 60's ('cause my parents wouldn't allow me to have surfboard at ten years old) Bought an old Jacobs Long Board at 12 and the rest is history :) I'm 72 now, knees are shot and own a "4th Gear Flyer" (Paul Gross really has it going on)
I would love to re-visit too. During my visit I only had ver little time to enjoy the waves on my mat since the main focus was on filming Tom. Hopefully once the pandemic is under control I will get another chance to visit SoCal again. Thanks for commenting :)
Great video. I just started Matt surfing because after surfing since 1964 I developed peripheral neuropathy about 6 years ago and couldn’t feel my legs to keep balance. Then I saw some videos of Matt surfing, including George Greenough , and thought THIS is my vehicle back in to the water ! I bought a 4th Gear Flyer from Paul Gross , some Yucca fins and a new Ho Stevie 4/3 suit and am learning to surf from a completely different but awesome perspective. I’m loving being back in the water. Finally! I also have done artwork since I was a kid. Rick Griffin has been my inspiration since Murphy came out and forward to his and all the other Zap comic and S.F. Poster arteests of the 60’s era. I’ve learned how to use the airbrush as well. All as a hobby. Nothing professional other than some Harley tanks n fenders which I was paid for . I really admire your artwork. It’s right up my alley. Good stuff brother. As a native SoCal guy I’m just hanging at home currently in Ventura waiting on some south to generate swell this summer. I’ve spent some time in M.B. In the late 80’s. Great beach town. Maybe I’ll see ya in the water sometime or at some art gathering. Good to see us older guys still managing to stay in and love our ocean and our artistic endeavors. Keeping it alive . God bless ya ! 😎
Brilliant story... learned to surf (standup) on the super hard mats in Redondo Beach in the 60's ('cause my parents wouldn't allow me to have surfboard at ten years old) Bought an old Jacobs Long Board at 12 and the rest is history :)
I'm 72 now, knees are shot and own a "4th Gear Flyer" (Paul Gross really has it going on)
Great story 😊Bring back Don Redondo cupcake !
Love this
Loved this story. Pure fun!
wow this video series was so cool! thanks for sharing!
get mat! very happy.
It’s funny how the ocean always draws us back, great content. Thanks
Great video, thanks
Great story thanks
I'm glad you enjoyed the story :)
I'd love to be back in San Diego. Had some fun rides at Tourmaline on my mat.
I would love to re-visit too. During my visit I only had ver little time to enjoy the waves on my mat since the main focus was on filming Tom. Hopefully once the pandemic is under control I will get another chance to visit SoCal again. Thanks for commenting :)
surfmat FTW
:)