I am going to have to anneal the end of my straight pipe before I can flare it. I don't like those type of flaring tools. I'd rather use the rotary flaring tool. I have to use the kind in the video, because I cannot find a 7/8" O.D. flare tool anywhere.
I just snapped the soft copper propane line going into the house and watched this video to see how to flare the pipe properly. I have NONE of this shit so I spit on a concrete peg and hammered it in there. No leaks, I can cook for now and replace it with a flexible line when I can.
Using copper cutters , reeming it and then swedgeing it,, around two years ago we had to switch to compression fittings no swedging ,flaring , in Manitoba Canada makes it a lot faster and easier
@@jdiaz8819 Now you bring up yet another difference. In NYC repairs on lead or galvanized water lines are expressly forbidden and against code. They must be replaced completely.
@@balkanplumbing I mean when we are putting new waterline in if it’s lead it’s replaced 100 percent of the time from the Corp to the property box facing the city side . But on the backside if it’s lead the homeowner has to pay to shoot a new copper line into the house while the hole is available at a better price or they do it after it’s back filled at a lot more. Or they live with the lead line. It’s against code to have lead on homeowners side left as a lead into house ?
@@jdiaz8819 Well, in NYC the meters are inside the house, and property owner "owns" the entire line, so yes the entire line must be replaced to copper from the tap connection to into the building.
I would honestly say either one. In flaring I don’t believe the reverse side of the hammer ever come into play. And yes medium force. Too much force and you can split the copper.
Pipe joint compound is not placed on the flare, or the face of the flare fitting. It is placed on the threads of the flare fitting, and behind the flared copper to allow the flare nut to be turned and tightened more easily.
@@balkanplumbing What type of pipe joint compound are you using? Any pipe joint compound I can find is gritty or has teflon in it and it's not working well for this application. The compound you are using in this video appears smooth almost like plumbers grease
Thank you very much for the vid! Appreciate it
Thanks
I am going to have to anneal the end of my straight pipe before I can flare it. I don't like those type of flaring tools. I'd rather use the rotary flaring tool. I have to use the kind in the video, because I cannot find a 7/8" O.D. flare tool anywhere.
Am I understanding correctly, you’re located in India? If yes, we do not have any working remotely positions available at this time.
I just snapped the soft copper propane line going into the house and watched this video to see how to flare the pipe properly. I have NONE of this shit so I spit on a concrete peg and hammered it in there. No leaks, I can cook for now and replace it with a flexible line when I can.
What size pipe was that?
That was 1" K type copper.
What is the tool called for hitting the flare ?
A flaring tool. Simple!
Head
Technically, I do believe you are correct! Nice catch.
Using copper cutters , reeming it and then swedgeing it,, around two years ago we had to switch to compression fittings no swedging ,flaring , in Manitoba Canada makes it a lot faster and easier
Interesting. Every jurisdiction has its own code.
Makes it easier to do things like hooking up to a homeowners lead service, if they don’t want it replaced from the box to the meter
@@jdiaz8819 Now you bring up yet another difference. In NYC repairs on lead or galvanized water lines are expressly forbidden and against code. They must be replaced completely.
@@balkanplumbing I mean when we are putting new waterline in if it’s lead it’s replaced 100 percent of the time from the Corp to the property box facing the city side . But on the backside if it’s lead the homeowner has to pay to shoot a new copper line into the house while the hole is available at a better price or they do it after it’s back filled at a lot more. Or they live with the lead line. It’s against code to have lead on homeowners side left as a lead into house ?
@@jdiaz8819 Well, in NYC the meters are inside the house, and property owner "owns" the entire line, so yes the entire line must be replaced to copper from the tap connection to into the building.
Wear gloves too might help just in case😅
I thought that’s a swage tool
Should i use a framing hammer like your guy or a ball peen?
I would honestly say either one. In flaring I don’t believe the reverse side of the hammer ever come into play. And yes medium force. Too much force and you can split the copper.
Pipe dope on a flare lol wtf are you teaching ppl lol
Pipe joint compound is not placed on the flare, or the face of the flare fitting. It is placed on the threads of the flare fitting, and behind the flared copper to allow the flare nut to be turned and tightened more easily.
@@balkanplumbing What type of pipe joint compound are you using? Any pipe joint compound I can find is gritty or has teflon in it and it's not working well for this application. The compound you are using in this video appears smooth almost like plumbers grease
@@brianhaufschild2477 We use "pro dope" made by Hercules. Hopefully that helps you!