Ive done this same process years ago. Used vp100 but otherwise all the same. I love the rock wool but it compresses when you fasten near the perimeter of the rock wool sheet. I always wrap the windows and doors with ripped dow board since it does not compressed. It allows you to suck the ply tight and even especially for the future trim. One think I think gets missed is you put all this work into a sealed house then you put thousands of siding nails through. I opt for spring boards over rock wool with a few stainless lags and short siding nails into the spring board nailer. really clean build. keep sharing the knowledge. there are too many builders that either dont know or dont care.
I’m starting to hate these videos. I watch them, loving all the attention to detail and how methodical everything is. I go to work (am electrician) and everything is opposite of this! I’m always told “this is how it is, it’s construction”. Then why not we be the ones who make that change? Keep up the videos, these projects are inspiring.
its the opposite for me, I do everything to make sure every inch is flashed and sealed where it should be, and then my electrician comes in and put holes everywhere with a patch work of flashing detail. When I ask them to follow specific steps to flash it the way I want they look at me like "we've always done it our way and no one complains about it"
@@blamuk that’s a bummer. Any exterior work we do (new construction resi) we make sure we do right by the guys who are hired to do it (waterproofing and flashing where needed).
Everything you made is detailed and make sense. I love listening your works especially z-girt. Let me ask you a question. Which one should I use, Slicker HP Vs. Wrap + Ventgrid? I saw Ventgrid has 0.5" air flow that reduce heat from the outside but I don't know which one is more cost effective.
Not sure if you will see this but I am re siding my house, same white cedar pre dipped shingles, but I am using trim. Should the slicker go under the trim too ?
How have you kept bugs out of the second layer of plywood that holds the cedar shingles?? The prosoco is on the bottom, but what about plywood seems? I see think bugs will make a home in the two layers
Not sure its necessary with the amount of rock wool encasing the house plus the peel and stick under that. WRB under the rain screen should ad good enough protection. It overlaps 6" and is fixed by staples and the shingle nailing schedule. Benjaminobdyke warranties this product with this installation method for 35 years which I feel is twice the life of the shingles. Most bug infiltration is from the foundation to sheathing seam and that's got three layers of protection between the proseco, the drip cap and the bug screen wrapping the bottom of the rain screen. Plus, IT'S CEDAR! Its bug repellent on its own.
So why not use GAF energies solar shingles? Tesla has been notorious for being delayed. The shingles don't look as good as the Tesla shingles, but they are much easier to install if you believe the ads. The shingle from GAF are also built in the USA and they attach with roofing nails. -MG
Is rain getting behind the siding really an issue? I have a painted house and that does the job but we only get 20inches of rain annually so not an issue here.
Rain yes. This eliminates the hydrostatic pressure that is caused by rain. Instead of just sitting there in the tiny space (held there by the way water molecules bind to each other), the rain water can now roll down and be directed out. This will help keep the shingle finish intact, which makes the shingle last wayyy longer, and ultimately protects the wall assembly.
Panel on the left is the main electrical, panel on the right is low voltage. Unfortunately Span panels only come on 200A with 32 slots. It’s an all electric house, so that’s not enough for every circuit. We opted for two sub panels - 100A for basement circuits in the house and 50A dedicated to the shop.
Ok. Bug screen. If you are going with screen, in the field of the wall, you need to treat the corners differently. Please consider treating the corners with perforated, bent metal. The screen doesn’t hold up. Ask me how I know over a beer sometime. The screen turning a corner compromises the integrity of the screen AND creates a void depending on your corner detail, and that welcomes the critters in.
Asking over the virtual beer: what’s different about the corners? The shingles wrap the corners above the screen so no additional gap other than the one at the bottom. Genuinely curious if there is something different to do at the corner.
@@julianugentarchitect This wasn’t the beer I was looking for. Smile. Oh well. Ok, at the corners, there is never perfect continuity of the thermal layer or the furring strips that hold it. In this case, I believe there are z-bars. Typically, these aren’t at the very corner, they’re held back. That makes the insulation floppy. At least floppier than the field of the wall. Now, every other layer, including the drainage gap can either wrap the corner or butt to the layer coming from the other wall with no issue. Except for the bug screen. We are asking a fibrous layer to not only wrap around a corner, but also to MAINTAIN the same U-shape at the very point that the layer it is wrapping is the least stable. It typically can’t, as I noted in my initial comment. It wants to buckle. Especially with furring strips. As I’ve already noted, I believe they are using z-bars here. But remember, the thermal layer is floppy. That is where the bugs and rodents come through. I just hope they do a markup on the corners if they proceed. But even if the screen makes the corner, it’s still pretty weak there because of the geometry. Have you used, or are you planning to use this detail?
@@melvin_0bviously virtual beer is not as satisfying…. Anyway, this is my house and I installed the the slicker and the bug screen you see in the video so I was wondering if I should fix anything before the shingle guys come next week. The corners of the sheathing are backed up by a 2x2 so they’re actually quite rigid. Benjamin Obedyke recommends wrapping the corners with the Slicker and I wrapped the (very flexible) nylon bug screen underneath before I pulled the Slicker tight and stapled it on. I’m actually more worried about the small gaps in the body of the wall where there’s a little waviness in the rainscreen between staples.
@@julianugentarchitect Oh, nice! I was wondering if it was you! I’m in love with the views you have framed! I hear you about the waviness. In the field of the wall however, I’ve only seen troubles where there is a reverse lap or a fish mouth in the tape, or at a roof/wall/window interface like a dormer. The bugs found a way in to get to that water source. Regarding the corner, I’m glad that you have a 2X2 there, that should help. I recently came across some perforated metal j-channel that I want to mock up to turn a corner. inside and outside. I’ll take a look at your detail more later on today. Congratulations on your design!
Haha - I hadn’t noticed that in real life. That’s the duct size marked on the inside of the duct, about 4” back from the opening. Probably only visible with a camera pointed directly at the vent at waist height. I think I’ll keep it so that every 5 years or so when I’m low enough to see it I’ll be reminded of Paul who fabricated the ducts.
Everything on the exterior of a house should be intentional and make sense. Not just thrown on randomly, love the attention to detail!
Looks great! I'd love to see what detail you're using to cover the comfortboard from the copper flashing to the ground.
I’m always amazed at your build quality. The attention to detail is outstanding.
Ive done this same process years ago. Used vp100 but otherwise all the same. I love the rock wool but it compresses when you fasten near the perimeter of the rock wool sheet. I always wrap the windows and doors with ripped dow board since it does not compressed. It allows you to suck the ply tight and even especially for the future trim. One think I think gets missed is you put all this work into a sealed house then you put thousands of siding nails through. I opt for spring boards over rock wool with a few stainless lags and short siding nails into the spring board nailer. really clean build. keep sharing the knowledge. there are too many builders that either dont know or dont care.
Just hoping that, next time, you omit the "whistle sound" that accompanies the slide-in text. It's a bit ear-shattering!
Your attention to details is remarkable!
I only hope any builders I work with in the future are of the same caliber as you guys. Great work.
Love the drainage mat detail.
Solid details Nick! Loving it!
I’m starting to hate these videos. I watch them, loving all the attention to detail and how methodical everything is. I go to work (am electrician) and everything is opposite of this! I’m always told “this is how it is, it’s construction”. Then why not we be the ones who make that change? Keep up the videos, these projects are inspiring.
It's sad how lazy most people are.
its the opposite for me, I do everything to make sure every inch is flashed and sealed where it should be, and then my electrician comes in and put holes everywhere with a patch work of flashing detail. When I ask them to follow specific steps to flash it the way I want they look at me like "we've always done it our way and no one complains about it"
@@blamuk that’s a bummer. Any exterior work we do (new construction resi) we make sure we do right by the guys who are hired to do it (waterproofing and flashing where needed).
Everything you made is detailed and make sense. I love listening your works especially z-girt. Let me ask you a question. Which one should I use, Slicker HP Vs. Wrap + Ventgrid? I saw Ventgrid has 0.5" air flow that reduce heat from the outside but I don't know which one is more cost effective.
Love it!
I'm hoping that electric panel gets organized better down the road
Not sure if you will see this but I am re siding my house, same white cedar pre dipped shingles, but I am using trim. Should the slicker go under the trim too ?
Good day... What happened to the s girt?
Are those Maibec semi-transparent shingles by any chance?
How have you kept bugs out of the second layer of plywood that holds the cedar shingles?? The prosoco is on the bottom, but what about plywood seems? I see think bugs will make a home in the two layers
Not sure its necessary with the amount of rock wool encasing the house plus the peel and stick under that. WRB under the rain screen should ad good enough protection. It overlaps 6" and is fixed by staples and the shingle nailing schedule. Benjaminobdyke warranties this product with this installation method for 35 years which I feel is twice the life of the shingles. Most bug infiltration is from the foundation to sheathing seam and that's got three layers of protection between the proseco, the drip cap and the bug screen wrapping the bottom of the rain screen. Plus, IT'S CEDAR! Its bug repellent on its own.
So why not use GAF energies solar shingles? Tesla has been notorious for being delayed. The shingles don't look as good as the Tesla shingles, but they are much easier to install if you believe the ads. The shingle from GAF are also built in the USA and they attach with roofing nails.
-MG
Is rain getting behind the siding really an issue? I have a painted house and that does the job but we only get 20inches of rain annually so not an issue here.
Moisture yes. “Rain” no.
Rain yes. This eliminates the hydrostatic pressure that is caused by rain. Instead of just sitting there in the tiny space (held there by the way water molecules bind to each other), the rain water can now roll down and be directed out.
This will help keep the shingle finish intact, which makes the shingle last wayyy longer, and ultimately protects the wall assembly.
What is the manufacturer of the garage doors, and what particular model?
The manufacturer is Carriage House Door Company. I don’t know the model.
Why 2 panels and 2 sub panels Why not just 1-300 or 400 amp panel? Is that size panel not offered in that new special panel?
Panel on the left is the main electrical, panel on the right is low voltage. Unfortunately Span panels only come on 200A with 32 slots. It’s an all electric house, so that’s not enough for every circuit. We opted for two sub panels - 100A for basement circuits in the house and 50A dedicated to the shop.
@@julianugentarchitect oh Ok that makes total sense then, thanks for the reply, it's much appreciated.
Ok. Bug screen. If you are going with screen, in the field of the wall, you need to treat the corners differently. Please consider treating the corners with perforated, bent metal. The screen doesn’t hold up. Ask me how I know over a beer sometime. The screen turning a corner compromises the integrity of the screen AND creates a void depending on your corner detail, and that welcomes the critters in.
Asking over the virtual beer: what’s different about the corners? The shingles wrap the corners above the screen so no additional gap other than the one at the bottom. Genuinely curious if there is something different to do at the corner.
@@julianugentarchitect This wasn’t the beer I was looking for. Smile. Oh well.
Ok, at the corners, there is never perfect continuity of the thermal layer or the furring strips that hold it. In this case, I believe there are z-bars. Typically, these aren’t at the very corner, they’re held back. That makes the insulation floppy. At least floppier than the field of the wall.
Now, every other layer, including the drainage gap can either wrap the corner or butt to the layer coming from the other wall with no issue. Except for the bug screen. We are asking a fibrous layer to not only wrap around a corner, but also to MAINTAIN the same U-shape at the very point that the layer it is wrapping is the least stable. It typically can’t, as I noted in my initial comment. It wants to buckle. Especially with furring strips. As I’ve already noted, I believe they are using z-bars here. But remember, the thermal layer is floppy. That is where the bugs and rodents come through.
I just hope they do a markup on the corners if they proceed. But even if the screen makes the corner, it’s still pretty weak there because of the geometry.
Have you used, or are you planning to use this detail?
@@melvin_0bviously virtual beer is not as satisfying…. Anyway, this is my house and I installed the the slicker and the bug screen you see in the video so I was wondering if I should fix anything before the shingle guys come next week. The corners of the sheathing are backed up by a 2x2 so they’re actually quite rigid. Benjamin Obedyke recommends wrapping the corners with the Slicker and I wrapped the (very flexible) nylon bug screen underneath before I pulled the Slicker tight and stapled it on. I’m actually more worried about the small gaps in the body of the wall where there’s a little waviness in the rainscreen between staples.
@@julianugentarchitect Oh, nice! I was wondering if it was you! I’m in love with the views you have framed!
I hear you about the waviness. In the field of the wall however, I’ve only seen troubles where there is a reverse lap or a fish mouth in the tape, or at a roof/wall/window interface like a dormer. The bugs found a way in to get to that water source.
Regarding the corner, I’m glad that you have a 2X2 there, that should help. I recently came across some perforated metal j-channel that I want to mock up to turn a corner. inside and outside. I’ll take a look at your detail more later on today.
Congratulations on your design!
Hopefully someone erases the magic marker numbers on the insides of the silver vent.
Haha - I hadn’t noticed that in real life. That’s the duct size marked on the inside of the duct, about 4” back from the opening. Probably only visible with a camera pointed directly at the vent at waist height. I think I’ll keep it so that every 5 years or so when I’m low enough to see it I’ll be reminded of Paul who fabricated the ducts.
Who cares
Should really wear gloves touching that rain screen, it will mess up your hands
How so? It’s plastic.
Safety Sally has arrived. lmao
Ive seen it cause the skin to peel on your hands and fingers a day or two after use, unsure if was also in connection with extreme cold.
@@t00018645 thank you for the PSA Safety Sally