As a structural engineer, really neat to see the mockup! Understandable that a larger bracket would be longer lead time and a thermal bridge. I've used fabreeka pads rather than LVLs for thermal breaks at structural connections with good results. They make all kinds of washers and sleeves to ensure the entire connection is insulated as well.
@@2brazy4ubitch you specify the size and they deliver it. I’ve just used it as a thermal isolation between two steel plates for a moment connection. Worked great.
@@timvanoss6338 Fabreeka is great. I had used many times on commercial projects and kept thinking it was a familiar name and then I realized I’d driven past their HQ many, many times as it’s right next to the local IKEA. So no Fabreeka on this job, but a great product for separation of structural steel.
I really enjoy these kind of videos because I get to see people trying to build the best house they can as opposed to the world I live in where all of the builders are trying to build as cheaply and quickly as they can.
Really enjoy your video's, even though this kind of stuff is way out of my wheel house. Julia is awesome too...Looking forward to see her in more video's.
I have used that exact setup with the Maine Deck Brackets on my house. Dont forget that you cannot have aluminum bracket up next to treated wood (not sure about the LVL and its glue). It will corrode.
I love hearing from the architect. It seems like the bracket detail would be more simple to just have a deeper bracket. The LVL furring makes more sense as a thermal break since this is for PH.
Need more of Julia. Good to see the down n' dirty details of those lift and slides. Must be.good times for architects because net zero house with all the bells and whistles costs a pretty penny. What is this house running per sf? Over $700?
Those are great deck ledger brackets. Been using that approach for many years. Highly recommend. Even had custom ones welded up to accommodate a greater thickness for different exterior condition.
That is what I was thinking. Why complicate it with stacking the LVLs to get the thickness needed. Seems like a steel fab shop could cut off some sections of steel I-beams and trim them up to be any thickness you need and drill a couple of bolt holes.
Love the house 👍. Just the right "makes sense" size and attention to details as always. Can't wait to see the Tesla setup. I assume you'll have Powerwalls?
I'd love to see and understand the sliding door detail that pockets into the wall? What is the air / waterproofing detail at the pocket? Is the door inside or outside the column line?
i think he mentioned that before and it was like this: the window slides behind the exterior wall and they build an extra interior wall in front of the window.
Huge fan of your work! Love the way the project is coming together! I was wondering if I could purchase an ns builders sweatshirt, I love the logo and it would be so cool to rep your company
The deck attachment detail is interesting. Thanks for sharing. I’m a hobbyist, but I would think it’s a sheer load, rather than a moment, on the vertical datum for those brackets. The only time it would be a moment would be If the perimeter supports failed (at which point, the deck would turn into a cantilever). I’d think the horizontal datum would be more of a moment load (mostly from wind), but even then it wouldn’t be much of one. That said, the detail looks so solid that I think a ship could run into the deck and it would cause the entire house to move rather than compromise the deck…LOL! Beautiful home and I hope you guys enjoy it forever!
The engineer and I had a good laugh yesterday about the deck structure: modern deck design is all about preventing a collapse when you have a giant dance party. We both got a chuckle out of the image of me having a raver on the back deck. And your right about the loads on the bracket being primarily sheer loads - unless the dance party results in a catastrophic collapse.
@@julianugentarchitect LOL! We have a beach house in Old Lyme…and, believe it or not, we’ve had a few pretty big dance parties on our deck. They weren’t planned, but they sure were fun! I’m planning on building a small ski place up in VT and will be using some of your details. Thanks again for sharing!
Why not instead of using those off the shelf aluminum deck brackets that need all the extra labor and material to pad the wall out with LVL pieces, don’t they just cut sections of I beam with a 6 inch webbing, drill them and send them to get galvanized? They will be stronger, custom made to fit their application and easier to seal than two pieces of wood that will also require a longer through bolt. It’s just my opinion though... I think the brackets are a neat idea but I would custom build my own brackets and it will be faster and easier than trying to accommodate for an off the shelf product intended for a different application. And I think a 6 inch webbing I beam has the correct thickness for the two layers of rock wall
@@julianugentarchitect Right. I can see peace-of-mind benefits to having the deck be separate, but I'm not sure if it's cheaper. BTW, I found this video. The last solution in this video seems like it might work to attach through the insulation (might need to be foam - unclear if there's any compression strength requirements): ruclips.net/video/-jNTPl2il20/видео.html Upside is that it doesn't require reducing the amount of insulation behind the ledger.
Love seeing the detail of the deck connection. A similar problem that I have run across. How did the engineer approve the 1 1/8 sheathing not going to the edge of the beam to tie in the floor diaphragm to the floor beam/rim board? I am in California and typically they need this to tie it all together. The other issue that comes up that you addressed is the gap from the porch to the deck created by the exterior insulation. The 3/4 plywd helps solve that issue. Thanks for letting us see the details.
Knowing that the 1 1/8” flooring would be cut out at the glass door/wall, the framer glued and screwed the subfloor to continuous blocking on the inside of the LVL.
Could you use liquid nails as the caulking for the lvl block spacers along with the through bolts? That whole process is really interesting. Great job.
Nice video, I appreciate the detail covering the wall assembly. As an amateur viewer, the double sheathing seems backwards. What's the reason to put the plywood outside instead of the WRB outside?
@@townsendliving9750 That’s correct. Putting the air/vapour barrier in the middle of the wall allows the wall to dry in both directions. It also prevents humidity from the inside from passing into the outer layers of insulation where it could condense into water.
@@julianugentarchitect I disagree with that intuitively, but don’t think it will cause issue. Siga Majvest 500SA is vapor-open product. It will NOT prevent vapor from going through the wall if it ever gets through you interior vapor retarder. But because you have 6” of R-4.2ci, your due point is likely outside of your structural sheathing. Therefore condensation if it were to occur, is outside the house. Now, you need to be careful that you second layer of staple-on WRB also needs to be vapor permeable, otherwise condensation would accumulate at the back side of your second plywood. I also disagree partially with the idea that wall will dry in both direction. If it is vapor that is causing issue, the vapor drive is mostly going outwards in your winter climate, especially that you will pressurize your house from mechanical system. That said, you won’t really have condensation issue at all, so this point about “drying” really don’t apply.
@@1989catman All good points that were considered and studied with WUFI modeling. There’s another 5.5” of insulation in the stud wall, so the dew point is on the outside of the WAB as it needs to be in a winter climate. But we also have pretty hot and humid summers where things reverse. The Majvest WAB (water air barrier) is semi-permeable and the Slicker Max WRB (weather resistive barrier) is about 5 times more permeable than the Majvest, so should not trap water. If we were using another type of siding, we could have skipped the outer layer of plywood and WRB altogether and attached the siding directly to the fiberglass z-girts. The shingles are attached frequently in 5” rows, so the ply sheathing was the only practical way to do this.
@@aayotechnology I think it is still a code requirement to have interior vapor retarder. But Would be a good idea to do smart vapor retarder such as Certainteed Membrane, or any Siga product. Or to that matter, if due point is outside, a PVA primer would do.
If you're spending the money on hurricane ties. You're better off using the VPA1 or 2 tie downs which allow you to skip the birds mouth and achieve about the same tiedown resistance for uplift.
All of this design is identified to protect the project from salt water. At about 10:00 the standoff is identified as aluminum. It will probably be bolted on with galvanized bolts. Admittedly this assembly is somewhat protected but it is exposed to wind driven spray and water. Best practice would be to use stainless steel. Second best would be hot dipped galvanized steel and last choise would be aluminum. Salt water and salt spray loves to corrode and destroy aluminum. This decision should be reconsidered.
Good point. We need to 1) separate the aluminum brackets from the PT structure and 2) cover any exposed areas. This is one of those situations where the products available aren’t exactly what you need and custom (especially stainless) would cost 5 times more. Note to Viewrail, Trex, Simpson etc - sell deck brackets for this situation!
@@julianugentarchitect This is not a new issue and I suspect that Tech or Customer Support people at Simpson or one of the major suppliers has a solution. If you need to have brackets fabricated, the bracket is very simple and should be inexpensive. Getting an engineer to sign off will probably cost more than the brackets (If tht is required by the local jurisdiction.). I spent 30+ years on the coast in Southern Californa. Aluminum framed windows and doors were eaten by salt corrosion simply by the salt carried on the fog. Steel and tools left in uncondirioned garages rusted quickly and seriously. The problem will be worse on the island.
If you already have so much steel work, why not just custom fab a deeper deck outrigger out of 1/4” plates instead of the two layers of LVL padding behind the shallower Alum product? Minimal cost difference, more reliable, and you can sika tape the back flange rather than relying on sealant that no one will warranty.
@@ArthurDentZaphodBeeb Aluminum is more conducive than steel, but doesn’t matter in terms of the big picture. I would say it’s a worthwhile thermal bridging to have to gain the structural integrity for the deck ledger.
@@julianugentarchitect I was also curious about this, homenl performance also used those deck hanger brackets, it seems like you could get a stainless steel I beam the thickness you needed, cut them to the size you require and drill 8 holes, stainless is also less conductive so better for thermal bridging. I'm sure they have to be engineered stamped which also doesnt seem like to big of a deal if you know an engineer, probably 1 week. I also need brackets like this for some window awnings this year
@@townsendliving9750 Yes, you could source stainless WF pieces, have them custom fabricated, and get an engineer to do the calculations, but it would be MUCH more expensive with no appreciable advantage. The off the shelf aluminum brackets and scrap LVLs are quick, cost effective, and provide a decent thermal break.
I will never understand point of R60 walls. Especially when walls are half glass. I guess its a bragging right. Like driving a Prius while having a yacht.
Heat loss/gain is calculated over the full building, it’s not based on the value of the worst or best component. 80% of the building envelop is very high R-value (~R-25 at foundation, ~R-45 at walls, ~R65 at roof). The thermal buffer created ALLOWS us to have larger amounts of glass. Plus the glass is triple glazed, thermally broken with effective R-value around 8.
@@julianugentarchitect There is a point of diminishing returns where there is more energy used to create and transport materials than they will save in a lifetime.
Wow, I have not seen anyone in our market built scaffolding out of 2x material. MnOSHA would put us out of business with fines. No guard rail, not toe kick, no tie off. You might want to review your safety before someone gets hurt. Work looks great though, but get serious about safety with your subs!
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It is refreshing to see a builder who cares about getting the details right.
As a structural engineer, really neat to see the mockup! Understandable that a larger bracket would be longer lead time and a thermal bridge. I've used fabreeka pads rather than LVLs for thermal breaks at structural connections with good results. They make all kinds of washers and sleeves to ensure the entire connection is insulated as well.
@@2brazy4ubitch you specify the size and they deliver it. I’ve just used it as a thermal isolation between two steel plates for a moment connection. Worked great.
@@timvanoss6338 Fabreeka is great. I had used many times on commercial projects and kept thinking it was a familiar name and then I realized I’d driven past their HQ many, many times as it’s right next to the local IKEA. So no Fabreeka on this job, but a great product for separation of structural steel.
I really enjoy these kind of videos because I get to see people trying to build the best house they can as opposed to the world I live in where all of the builders are trying to build as cheaply and quickly as they can.
Really enjoy your video's, even though this kind of stuff is way out of my wheel house. Julia is awesome too...Looking forward to see her in more video's.
Loved Julia's explanation! More framing stage videos please! :)
I have used that exact setup with the Maine Deck Brackets on my house. Dont forget that you cannot have aluminum bracket up next to treated wood (not sure about the LVL and its glue). It will corrode.
Curious as to why she simply did not have custom deeper brackets made. Any welding/fabrication shop could have turned them out for likely $40 a pop.
I love hearing from the architect. It seems like the bracket detail would be more simple to just have a deeper bracket. The LVL furring makes more sense as a thermal break since this is for PH.
Need more of Julia. Good to see the down n' dirty details of those lift and slides. Must be.good times for architects because net zero house with all the bells and whistles costs a pretty penny. What is this house running per sf? Over $700?
Would it not be possible to eliminate that secondary layer of sheathing and put the cedar breather & strapping directly on the rockwool?
Those are great deck ledger brackets. Been using that approach for many years. Highly recommend. Even had custom ones welded up to accommodate a greater thickness for different exterior condition.
That is what I was thinking. Why complicate it with stacking the LVLs to get the thickness needed. Seems like a steel fab shop could cut off some sections of steel I-beams and trim them up to be any thickness you need and drill a couple of bolt holes.
Another great episode. If I ever got into the trades I'd want to work for a company like yours. Knocking the detail out of the park!
Your content is so touching
A lot of great information packed in this video!
Love the house 👍. Just the right "makes sense" size and attention to details as always.
Can't wait to see the Tesla setup. I assume you'll have Powerwalls?
Cost per square foot?
I'd love to see and understand the sliding door detail that pockets into the wall? What is the air / waterproofing detail at the pocket? Is the door inside or outside the column line?
i think he mentioned that before and it was like this: the window slides behind the exterior wall and they build an extra interior wall in front of the window.
That was a great episode!
Nice designed house!
Huge fan of your work! Love the way the project is coming together! I was wondering if I could purchase an ns builders sweatshirt, I love the logo and it would be so cool to rep your company
Me too!!
I would use stainless steel custom brackets to suit the depth of cavity. SS vs Alu is 10% the thermal conductivity.
The deck attachment detail is interesting. Thanks for sharing.
I’m a hobbyist, but I would think it’s a sheer load, rather than a moment, on the vertical datum for those brackets. The only time it would be a moment would be If the perimeter supports failed (at which point, the deck would turn into a cantilever). I’d think the horizontal datum would be more of a moment load (mostly from wind), but even then it wouldn’t be much of one.
That said, the detail looks so solid that I think a ship could run into the deck and it would cause the entire house to move rather than compromise the deck…LOL!
Beautiful home and I hope you guys enjoy it forever!
The engineer and I had a good laugh yesterday about the deck structure: modern deck design is all about preventing a collapse when you have a giant dance party. We both got a chuckle out of the image of me having a raver on the back deck.
And your right about the loads on the bracket being primarily sheer loads - unless the dance party results in a catastrophic collapse.
@@julianugentarchitect LOL! We have a beach house in Old Lyme…and, believe it or not, we’ve had a few pretty big dance parties on our deck. They weren’t planned, but they sure were fun!
I’m planning on building a small ski place up in VT and will be using some of your details. Thanks again for sharing!
Why not instead of using those off the shelf aluminum deck brackets that need all the extra labor and material to pad the wall out with LVL pieces, don’t they just cut sections of I beam with a 6 inch webbing, drill them and send them to get galvanized? They will be stronger, custom made to fit their application and easier to seal than two pieces of wood that will also require a longer through bolt. It’s just my opinion though... I think the brackets are a neat idea but I would custom build my own brackets and it will be faster and easier than trying to accommodate for an off the shelf product intended for a different application. And I think a 6 inch webbing I beam has the correct thickness for the two layers of rock wall
Did you consider making the deck free standing (probably slight cantilever to get the deck boards within 1" or whatever to the siding of the house)?
That would require another set of columns next to the house versus having the deck supported off the house structure.
@@julianugentarchitect Right. I can see peace-of-mind benefits to having the deck be separate, but I'm not sure if it's cheaper.
BTW, I found this video. The last solution in this video seems like it might work to attach through the insulation (might need to be foam - unclear if there's any compression strength requirements): ruclips.net/video/-jNTPl2il20/видео.html
Upside is that it doesn't require reducing the amount of insulation behind the ledger.
@@2brazy4ubitch Interesting!
The slider into the wall cavity... Does the insulation not matter since there is exterior insulation?
Love seeing the detail of the deck connection. A similar problem that I have run across. How did the engineer approve the 1 1/8 sheathing not going to the edge of the beam to tie in the floor diaphragm to the floor beam/rim board? I am in California and typically they need this to tie it all together. The other issue that comes up that you addressed is the gap from the porch to the deck created by the exterior insulation. The 3/4 plywd helps solve that issue. Thanks for letting us see the details.
Knowing that the 1 1/8” flooring would be cut out at the glass door/wall, the framer glued and screwed the subfloor to continuous blocking on the inside of the LVL.
Could you use liquid nails as the caulking for the lvl block spacers along with the through bolts? That whole process is really interesting. Great job.
Nice video, I appreciate the detail covering the wall assembly.
As an amateur viewer, the double sheathing seems backwards. What's the reason to put the plywood outside instead of the WRB outside?
I'm assuming it has something to do with the insualtion being able to dry out if it needs to.
@@townsendliving9750 That’s correct. Putting the air/vapour barrier in the middle of the wall allows the wall to dry in both directions. It also prevents humidity from the inside from passing into the outer layers of insulation where it could condense into water.
@@julianugentarchitect I disagree with that intuitively, but don’t think it will cause issue. Siga Majvest 500SA is vapor-open product. It will NOT prevent vapor from going through the wall if it ever gets through you interior vapor retarder. But because you have 6” of R-4.2ci, your due point is likely outside of your structural sheathing. Therefore condensation if it were to occur, is outside the house. Now, you need to be careful that you second layer of staple-on WRB also needs to be vapor permeable, otherwise condensation would accumulate at the back side of your second plywood. I also disagree partially with the idea that wall will dry in both direction. If it is vapor that is causing issue, the vapor drive is mostly going outwards in your winter climate, especially that you will pressurize your house from mechanical system. That said, you won’t really have condensation issue at all, so this point about “drying” really don’t apply.
@@1989catman All good points that were considered and studied with WUFI modeling. There’s another 5.5” of insulation in the stud wall, so the dew point is on the outside of the WAB as it needs to be in a winter climate. But we also have pretty hot and humid summers where things reverse. The Majvest WAB (water air barrier) is semi-permeable and the Slicker Max WRB (weather resistive barrier) is about 5 times more permeable than the Majvest, so should not trap water.
If we were using another type of siding, we could have skipped the outer layer of plywood and WRB altogether and attached the siding directly to the fiberglass z-girts. The shingles are attached frequently in 5” rows, so the ply sheathing was the only practical way to do this.
@@aayotechnology I think it is still a code requirement to have interior vapor retarder. But Would be a good idea to do smart vapor retarder such as Certainteed Membrane, or any Siga product. Or to that matter, if due point is outside, a PVA primer would do.
If you're spending the money on hurricane ties. You're better off using the VPA1 or 2 tie downs which allow you to skip the birds mouth and achieve about the same tiedown resistance for uplift.
@@2brazy4ubitch The framer felt the bird mouth plus hurricane anchors was faster to do and easier to get a flat roof plane.
@@julianugentarchitect fair; the experience of those high end crews are top notch (pun intended) so can totally see that.
Julian was excellent
All of this design is identified to protect the project from salt water. At about 10:00 the standoff is identified as aluminum. It will probably be bolted on with galvanized bolts. Admittedly this assembly is somewhat protected but it is exposed to wind driven spray and water. Best practice would be to use stainless steel. Second best would be hot dipped galvanized steel and last choise would be aluminum. Salt water and salt spray loves to corrode and destroy aluminum. This decision should be reconsidered.
Good point. We need to 1) separate the aluminum brackets from the PT structure and 2) cover any exposed areas. This is one of those situations where the products available aren’t exactly what you need and custom (especially stainless) would cost 5 times more. Note to Viewrail, Trex, Simpson etc - sell deck brackets for this situation!
@@julianugentarchitect This is not a new issue and I suspect that Tech or Customer Support people at Simpson or one of the major suppliers has a solution. If you need to have brackets fabricated, the bracket is very simple and should be inexpensive. Getting an engineer to sign off will probably cost more than the brackets (If tht is required by the local jurisdiction.).
I spent 30+ years on the coast in Southern Californa. Aluminum framed windows and doors were eaten by salt corrosion simply by the salt carried on the fog. Steel and tools left in uncondirioned garages rusted quickly and seriously. The problem will be worse on the island.
those brackets would be great for icf.
If you already have so much steel work, why not just custom fab a deeper deck outrigger out of 1/4” plates instead of the two layers of LVL padding behind the shallower Alum product? Minimal cost difference, more reliable, and you can sika tape the back flange rather than relying on sealant that no one will warranty.
Using steel would be a big thermal bridge.
@@ArthurDentZaphodBeeb Aluminum is more conducive than steel, but doesn’t matter in terms of the big picture. I would say it’s a worthwhile thermal bridging to have to gain the structural integrity for the deck ledger.
Wow. Make sure the ledger fasteners are all stainless. Last forever. Kick ass
Historic record.
Why not just make custom brackets and forgo the blocking?
We considered custom brackets but there was a longer lead time. Plus there are a bunch of short LVL cut offs so the blocking is free.
@@julianugentarchitect ahh makes sense.
Why don’t you have custom brackets made to attach the deck, instead up building up with LVLs
We considered it but was more expensive and had a long lead time.
@@julianugentarchitect I was also curious about this, homenl performance also used those deck hanger brackets, it seems like you could get a stainless steel I beam the thickness you needed, cut them to the size you require and drill 8 holes, stainless is also less conductive so better for thermal bridging. I'm sure they have to be engineered stamped which also doesnt seem like to big of a deal if you know an engineer, probably 1 week. I also need brackets like this for some window awnings this year
@@townsendliving9750 Yes, you could source stainless WF pieces, have them custom fabricated, and get an engineer to do the calculations, but it would be MUCH more expensive with no appreciable advantage. The off the shelf aluminum brackets and scrap LVLs are quick, cost effective, and provide a decent thermal break.
I knew you didnt like that guys tape job haha
I heart LedgerLok.
Nice to see some real plywood instead of the cheap OSB.
Wheres the shop videos
Want more Revealed?
@@NSBuilders yeah👍
I will never understand point of R60 walls. Especially when walls are half glass. I guess its a bragging right. Like driving a Prius while having a yacht.
The customer is always right.
Heat loss/gain is calculated over the full building, it’s not based on the value of the worst or best component. 80% of the building envelop is very high R-value (~R-25 at foundation, ~R-45 at walls, ~R65 at roof). The thermal buffer created ALLOWS us to have larger amounts of glass. Plus the glass is triple glazed, thermally broken with effective R-value around 8.
@@julianugentarchitect There is a point of diminishing returns where there is more energy used to create and transport materials than they will save in a lifetime.
@@julianugentarchitect Are you sure about that? If I open a window, it doesn't seem to matter if my wall is insulated.
@@guyod1 Yes, embodied carbon from manufacturing and transit is an issue - and was a factor in all the choices.
Expensive.
Wow, I have not seen anyone in our market built scaffolding out of 2x material. MnOSHA would put us out of business with fines. No guard rail, not toe kick, no tie off. You might want to review your safety before someone gets hurt.
Work looks great though, but get serious about safety with your subs!
Great video! Whether you are investing directly or indirectly in property, 2022 crypto price now should be in every wise individual list, in some week time, you'll be ecstatic with decision you made today.. All thanks to Mrs Christine Norine Martin crypto trading program,God bless
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I have really heard a lot about her,how can I contact Mrs Christine Norine Martin,?
@@jaytoz1180 I'll leave her number just below this comment
1:42 "Primary bedroom"....lol.
Oh, for God's sake it's a MASTER bedroom.
Never trust a woke GC.
Smh
Still wth the pancake. Wtf
If it works. Why change it?
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