Nick's New England accent comes out at 3:54....turns out Drawring is a thing. LOL Another amazing vid. The OCD attention to detail is awesome as usual. Best takeaway for me. I never knew that Spray Foam shrinks slightly over time. Totally makes sense. Glad I used Rockwool on my place
Man, the product knowledge needed to build a well insulated house these days is amazing. I still watch Larry Haun videos at night when I want to relax (something about burying a 16d w one swing and hanging w brother Joe is like ASMR to me), and you can learn a lot from him even though that video is 30 years old! But jeesh has the construction industry evolved since then.
Interesting that you guys are favouring rockwool/PIR boards over spray. We find the same issues with shrinkage here in the UK/IRL whether its closed or open cell foam...wonder if it's anything to do with climate given that your climate is fairly similar to ours. I personally like to spec rockwool given the breathability/wicking with timber trusses or in full fill blockwork cavities as well.
Here's a thought from an airplane guy: those soffit holes could use a quarter-round treatment of their leading edge (the side of the soffit closest to outside air. Use a router. That would allow the air to smoothly accelerate into the hole. It may sound crazy for a roof going zero mph, but I guarantee you'll improve airflow by 40 percent without increasing the size of the holes. Also, from reduction of cooling drag, make those exit notches not the same are as the soffit holes but TWICE their area. The exit air is less dense from being hotter and that means the exit pressure will be higher. That may sound like a plus, but in an unmoving plenum it isn't. You really need to drop the exit pressure by increasing the exit size.
I honestly don’t get why people criticize nick if he ever swung a hammer or not. It’s irrelevant because he owns one of the best building companies and his attention to detail is what his customers want. However... we get it nick, you have been hitting the gym but your clothes are getting tighter and tighter lol now we should be concerned about your circulatory system 😂
Because they’re jealous. I wish I could sit down all the gc’s I work with and say “watch ns builders entire catalog of videos before I even step foot on this project”
Thanks for addressing the location of the rigid insulation in the header. My assumption was that all things being equal, it would be ideal to be: outside, 2x, foam, 2x, 2x, inside. That way the thermal mass of the header is helping to stabilize indoor temps instead of swinging with the outdoor temps. I realize the benefits would be small, probably negligible, but if there are no compelling reasons to choose one configuration over the other, mine as well grab the small gains right? Thoughts?
If you boxed out your headers you could have the insulation on the inside or outside. The "box" part is what the drywallers would screw to. Or in case of a reverse box. Your sheathing would be nailed to. I frame in Louisiana and that's how we do it.
Would not spray foam done right solve a lot of problems for you? I hear what you said but seems like you are over thinking it. Appreciate the detail of your videos.
Nick, at 10:10 of the video, where the wall framing is laid out on the floor, it is seen that due to the opening layout between the lower and upper sections, one side of the larger opening has no continuous king studs that would resist any out of plane loading.
I prefer to lay 1/2 ply over my rafters with seams taped, actual plywood, put 4 inches of dow with seams taped on top of that, then rip springboard in half and run that on top of the dow with stainless lags to the rafters down below and then put 5/8 and roof as you see fit. I wrap the vp 100 of the walls up and under the dow for about 4 feet but never tape the bottom of the dow so vapor can drip out. I also run rock wool at the peak with vp100 to allow moisture from the peak to vent. this way you keep all drafts from entering loose insulation and also seal out any and all bugs.
Possibly the practical reasons of providing horizontal mounting points for hanging fixtures, eliminating nooks of dead air, and avoiding acute inside corners for surface finishes. Aesthetically, multi-plane ceilings have a more refined look.
@@gregh99 good points. I personally like a ceiling that comes to a crisp peak. I'm sure they could get the finishes to work out with their level of craftsmanship. It'll be interesting to hear the answer
I think they actually explain why the designer wanted this in one of the previous videos. But I can’t remember exactly why. But I think it has something to do with making the room feel more cozy?
Rather than laying out the swooped wall / rafter with all it's 5" increments on the subfloor, it would be better to just draw it in the free CAD program of your choice. Essentially you're just drawing it full scale in a digital environment instead of the floor. Whatever dimension you want can be had with a few clicks.
24” oc hemlock not 16” gotcha again lol I am surprised you only have 54k subs, the builds/channel are very nice…. I would think you had a lot more subs.
Why didn't you use premanufactured plated trusses? The Premanufactured truss would be built with all 2x4 lumber and spaced out to 24"o.c. (I ran the design: 14:12 over 9:12 with 24" heel, 18' out to out of bearings) Max stress index for 2x4 #1 lumber in a PE truss is around 66% with less than an 1/8" maximum deflection. The overall truss height is 12'-6" which should not be an issue with shipping. Also you could have shortened your walls by at least 2' with a raised heel on the truss. The framing looks nice but its a waste of man hours and lumber in my opinion.
Nick's New England accent comes out at 3:54....turns out Drawring is a thing. LOL Another amazing vid. The OCD attention to detail is awesome as usual. Best takeaway for me. I never knew that Spray Foam shrinks slightly over time. Totally makes sense. Glad I used Rockwool on my place
Man, the product knowledge needed to build a well insulated house these days is amazing.
I still watch Larry Haun videos at night when I want to relax (something about burying a 16d w one swing and hanging w brother Joe is like ASMR to me), and you can learn a lot from him even though that video is 30 years old!
But jeesh has the construction industry evolved since then.
this framer is a keeper! very neat, I remember this guy from your MC podcast.
Those walls have so much framing and large openings, there's very little room for insulation. Are you using exterior insulation on this job?
Interesting that you guys are favouring rockwool/PIR boards over spray. We find the same issues with shrinkage here in the UK/IRL whether its closed or open cell foam...wonder if it's anything to do with climate given that your climate is fairly similar to ours. I personally like to spec rockwool given the breathability/wicking with timber trusses or in full fill blockwork cavities as well.
Here's a thought from an airplane guy: those soffit holes could use a quarter-round treatment of their leading edge (the side of the soffit closest to outside air. Use a router. That would allow the air to smoothly accelerate into the hole. It may sound crazy for a roof going zero mph, but I guarantee you'll improve airflow by 40 percent without increasing the size of the holes. Also, from reduction of cooling drag, make those exit notches not the same are as the soffit holes but TWICE their area. The exit air is less dense from being hotter and that means the exit pressure will be higher. That may sound like a plus, but in an unmoving plenum it isn't. You really need to drop the exit pressure by increasing the exit size.
The blocks might as well stop 11/2” below the roof. The holes serve no purpose that a shorter block doesn’t accomplish better.
@@loveistheanswer8137 Good point, though remember as an airplane guy I am a vested member of the gilded lily union.
This house is gonna be awesome! Love it
I honestly don’t get why people criticize nick if he ever swung a hammer or not. It’s irrelevant because he owns one of the best building companies and his attention to detail is what his customers want. However... we get it nick, you have been hitting the gym but your clothes are getting tighter and tighter lol now we should be concerned about your circulatory system 😂
😂😂😂😂 I used to be in between m-l maybe I should go to xl
Because they’re jealous. I wish I could sit down all the gc’s I work with and say “watch ns builders entire catalog of videos before I even step foot on this project”
What was the reason Rockwool said you need ventilation? and not a hot roof?
Thanks for addressing the location of the rigid insulation in the header. My assumption was that all things being equal, it would be ideal to be: outside, 2x, foam, 2x, 2x, inside. That way the thermal mass of the header is helping to stabilize indoor temps instead of swinging with the outdoor temps. I realize the benefits would be small, probably negligible, but if there are no compelling reasons to choose one configuration over the other, mine as well grab the small gains right? Thoughts?
If you boxed out your headers you could have the insulation on the inside or outside. The "box" part is what the drywallers would screw to. Or in case of a reverse box. Your sheathing would be nailed to.
I frame in Louisiana and that's how we do it.
These dudes are awesome.
Would not spray foam done right solve a lot of problems for you? I hear what you said but seems like you are over thinking it. Appreciate the detail of your videos.
Nick, at 10:10 of the video, where the wall framing is laid out on the floor, it is seen that due to the opening layout between the lower and upper sections, one side of the larger opening has no continuous king studs that would resist any out of plane loading.
My guess is that they aren’t done framing it.
I prefer to lay 1/2 ply over my rafters with seams taped, actual plywood, put 4 inches of dow with seams taped on top of that, then rip springboard in half and run that on top of the dow with stainless lags to the rafters down below and then put 5/8 and roof as you see fit. I wrap the vp 100 of the walls up and under the dow for about 4 feet but never tape the bottom of the dow so vapor can drip out. I also run rock wool at the peak with vp100 to allow moisture from the peak to vent. this way you keep all drafts from entering loose insulation and also seal out any and all bugs.
4:27 welcome to Nick gun show! We need a close-up of those fingernails! Been counting dollars 😁
Curious why the roof isn’t vented with a ventilation layer? Not enough volume for the size of roof?
#inspiringthecelebrationofcraft this is killer guys!! I am excited to see how you guys do the air and water barrier from roof to walls
Nick. Where's your leather bottom shoes. Your at a construction site??
I put sneakers on just for the comments. Like yours.
There is a hundred ways to frame a window....and a hundred way to leave your lover (sing it Nick) while framing your window...
Why are the collar ties below the interior peak? Is it to make it look like there is a beam or something? Seems weird to me.
Possibly the practical reasons of providing horizontal mounting points for hanging fixtures, eliminating nooks of dead air, and avoiding acute inside corners for surface finishes. Aesthetically, multi-plane ceilings have a more refined look.
@@gregh99 good points. I personally like a ceiling that comes to a crisp peak. I'm sure they could get the finishes to work out with their level of craftsmanship. It'll be interesting to hear the answer
I’m guessing there will be a decorative ridge beam.
I think they actually explain why the designer wanted this in one of the previous videos. But I can’t remember exactly why.
But I think it has something to do with making the room feel more cozy?
Ceiling drops, so you see lower collar ties
Rather than laying out the swooped wall / rafter with all it's 5" increments on the subfloor, it would be better to just draw it in the free CAD program of your choice. Essentially you're just drawing it full scale in a digital environment instead of the floor. Whatever dimension you want can be had with a few clicks.
24” oc hemlock not 16” gotcha again lol
I am surprised you only have 54k subs, the builds/channel are very nice…. I would think you had a lot more subs.
Is it me or this house is using way more lumber than needed?
It would help to draw a picture if you can't show it.
Why didn't you use premanufactured plated trusses? The Premanufactured truss would be built with all 2x4 lumber and spaced out to 24"o.c. (I ran the design: 14:12 over 9:12 with 24" heel, 18' out to out of bearings) Max stress index for 2x4 #1 lumber in a PE truss is around 66% with less than an 1/8" maximum deflection. The overall truss height is 12'-6" which should not be an issue with shipping. Also you could have shortened your walls by at least 2' with a raised heel on the truss. The framing looks nice but its a waste of man hours and lumber in my opinion.
Don't read the comments Nick (except this one)