In my opinion , probably one of the best weathering job on a ship I've seen on RUclips. The streaking and rust effect is fantastic. Thanks for sharing. I'm definitely going to take what you did and apply it to my next build.
I'm currently building the 1/350 yamato hull...our painting results are very similar..will continue to finish this model this spring.... Well done my friend 😀😀😀😀
Really great to see OPR applied to ships. I’ve watched a couple of RS videos and always wondered what the technique would look like applied to ships. Hope you are feeling better. Thanks again.
Great Video, thanks a lot. The result looks perfect. The best Yamato hull I've ever seen. I'm currently scratch Building a RC 1:100 IJN Mikuma and will try to use some of your techniques to make it look more realistic. I will go for the Tamiya XF colors for the base colors and then will try to weather it. Of course I will practise first. Im struggeling with the right oil colors. Can i buy every painters oil colors out there? There are so many, from cheap to very expensive (living in Europe). Would be glad if you could recommend some brand.
Thanks so much! I use abteilung 502 oil paints they are made for use on plastic models, but all that really means is that they have a little less linseed oil in them. Honestly you can use any oil paint on your model. The key to using oil paints is to remove as much of the oil from them as possible so they can dry faster in a reasonable amount of time. To do this I put the oil paint on a piece of cardboard and that absorbs the oil out of the paint. I also use a hairdryer to speed up dry time between paint layers. I hope this helps.
@@avion34 Hello Sir, thanks a lot for your time to answer. I will try to reproduce your fine work and will remember your words. Thanks again and happy modelling.
@@avion34 I've bought the "Naval and Grey Effects" set from Abteilung 502 (funny, its a german word..). Can buy them here in germany. Thanks again for your help. Will probably post back to you in a few months, when the plates on the hull are done.
This looks amazing!! For your thinner, would you use Mr. Color Leveling thinner, or s basic acrylic thinner? And standard painters' oils? Thank you in advance.
For this technique use odorless mineral spirits as the thinner. If you use a lacquer thinner like Mr color leveling thinner it will eat through the paint ruining the paint job. An acrylic thinner won’t mix with the oil paint so it won’t work, and since this is over acrylic paint it could also damage the paint job. Yes standard oil paints will work for this technique.
Hi from Scotland. Just come across your Yamato vids. Excellent high quality work and very valuable to me as I have set aside 2024 to built mine. Although I’m thinking I might need ALL of 2024!! What make of deck and upgrades did you go for (sorry if this has already been asked). Thanks
Thanks! I’m glad you are finding my videos useful. I have been working on my first 7 months so far so I’m on track to making it to a year long project lol. The aftermarket deck I got for it is a fairly cheap one that I’m pretty sure is from china. I got it soon after the kit was released so at the time there weren’t many aftermarket options yet, but now I’m sure there are a few options out there by now. I will be tackling the deck in the video after next, and I may be looking for another option before like I said the one I got looks kinda cheap. I will be discussing this in the video once I know what direction I’m going in.
Hi. Brilliant work and very informative. I plan on following this process on my current Grosser Kurfurst build. One question if I may? I presume you have no problems with the thinner on unvarnished acrylic? How long did you allow the base coat to dry and is it white spirit or odorless thinner you used? Thanks
I left the acrylic paint to dry for four days. Not because it needs that long I just had to go out of town for that long after painting. I would suggest waiting about 24 hours to ensure the paint is fully dried. There are no problems with odorless mineral spirits directly on the acrylic paint.
Those are a set of 1:200 scale Japanese Navy crew figures from ION models that I will add to the ship at the end of the project. I was using one of them here to check my weathering work to make sure it was in scale. It’s easy to over do the weathering effects on these smaller scales so having a point of reference to compare it to like an adult sized person in this scale helps to keep things looking correct for the scale you are working on.
In my opinion , probably one of the best weathering job on a ship I've seen on RUclips. The streaking and rust effect is fantastic. Thanks for sharing. I'm definitely going to take what you did and apply it to my next build.
Thanks for the kind words.
You must be blind
I'm currently building the 1/350 yamato hull...our painting results are very similar..will continue to finish this model this spring.... Well done my friend 😀😀😀😀
Nice work 👍👍
very real！！great build
Really great to see OPR applied to ships. I’ve watched a couple of RS videos and always wondered what the technique would look like applied to ships. Hope you are feeling better. Thanks again.
Thanks much better now.
Great Video, thanks a lot. The result looks perfect. The best Yamato hull I've ever seen.
I'm currently scratch Building a RC 1:100 IJN Mikuma and will try to use some of your techniques to make it look more realistic. I will go for the Tamiya XF colors for the base colors and then will try to weather it. Of course I will practise first. Im struggeling with the right oil colors. Can i buy every painters oil colors out there? There are so many, from cheap to very expensive (living in Europe). Would be glad if you could recommend some brand.
Thanks so much! I use abteilung 502 oil paints they are made for use on plastic models, but all that really means is that they have a little less linseed oil in them. Honestly you can use any oil paint on your model. The key to using oil paints is to remove as much of the oil from them as possible so they can dry faster in a reasonable amount of time. To do this I put the oil paint on a piece of cardboard and that absorbs the oil out of the paint. I also use a hairdryer to speed up dry time between paint layers. I hope this helps.
@@avion34 Hello Sir,
thanks a lot for your time to answer. I will try to reproduce your fine work and will remember your words.
Thanks again and happy modelling.
@@avion34 I've bought the "Naval and Grey Effects" set from Abteilung 502 (funny, its a german word..). Can buy them here in germany. Thanks again for your help.
Will probably post back to you in a few months, when the plates on the hull are done.
This looks amazing!! For your thinner, would you use Mr. Color Leveling thinner, or s basic acrylic thinner? And standard painters' oils? Thank you in advance.
For this technique use odorless mineral spirits as the thinner. If you use a lacquer thinner like Mr color leveling thinner it will eat through the paint ruining the paint job. An acrylic thinner won’t mix with the oil paint so it won’t work, and since this is over acrylic paint it could also damage the paint job. Yes standard oil paints will work for this technique.
@@avion34 Great! Thank you.
What a beautiful voice
Hi from Scotland. Just come across your Yamato vids. Excellent high quality work and very valuable to me as I have set aside 2024 to built mine. Although I’m thinking I might need ALL of 2024!! What make of deck and upgrades did you go for (sorry if this has already been asked). Thanks
Thanks! I’m glad you are finding my videos useful. I have been working on my first 7 months so far so I’m on track to making it to a year long project lol. The aftermarket deck I got for it is a fairly cheap one that I’m pretty sure is from china. I got it soon after the kit was released so at the time there weren’t many aftermarket options yet, but now I’m sure there are a few options out there by now. I will be tackling the deck in the video after next, and I may be looking for another option before like I said the one I got looks kinda cheap. I will be discussing this in the video once I know what direction I’m going in.
Hi. Brilliant work and very informative. I plan on following this process on my current Grosser Kurfurst build. One question if I may? I presume you have no problems with the thinner on unvarnished acrylic? How long did you allow the base coat to dry and is it white spirit or odorless thinner you used? Thanks
I left the acrylic paint to dry for four days. Not because it needs that long I just had to go out of town for that long after painting. I would suggest waiting about 24 hours to ensure the paint is fully dried. There are no problems with odorless mineral spirits directly on the acrylic paint.
great video! can you give me the reference of the figurines in 17:38 ?
Those are a set of 1:200 scale Japanese Navy crew figures from ION models that I will add to the ship at the end of the project. I was using one of them here to check my weathering work to make sure it was in scale. It’s easy to over do the weathering effects on these smaller scales so having a point of reference to compare it to like an adult sized person in this scale helps to keep things looking correct for the scale you are working on.