It is great to see Nathan's involvement with the show continue. However, he has done a few other segments for ATOH since his generation next season. He's been a good addition.
4:04 Note the back cut Nathan did on the longer piece of countertop. Put a 15-20 degree miter cut there means only the top edge meets the wall, and ensures a nice snug fit. If he'd left it a square cut, and the drywall stuck out more on the bottom than the top, the top would not have fit flush. And that cut is hidden anyway by the second piece the homeowner sticks in (which has a square cut because the cut is visible on the outside end).
What if the second piece was not flush either? Would you bother with a back cut or would it even look bad with such a small piece? Thanks for the comment, I like seeing people talk about design details
Pretty much all finishes are food safe once cured. But, polyurethane needs to be sanded before you can apply a maintenance coat, something you don't need to do with mineral oil or salad bowl finish. That's really important. Also, mineral oil doesn't really build "layers", it's more about saturating the wood with oil, and that can take several applications
Well your supose to mineral oil it every day for a month then I think you do it as maintenance once a or twice a month depending using for food. Eg. Rolling dough. I wouldn't cut on it.
Interesting comment for this video! I’m going to be installing my butcher block soon and have been wondering if there are harmless, natural alternatives for sealing. Much appreciated
Most finishes are food safe once cured. Think about your dining room table. Sure, you wouldn’t cut directly on it, but you’re not gonna throw out a piece of food that touches it.
It only took him 5:48 from start to finish. And with no measuring! Of course he used a Festool circular saw. I have a Makita so it’s going to take much longer…probably 3 weeks.
Most butcherblock is 1.5" thick. The old countertop material was much thinner, so something happened behind the scenes to allow the new material to magically fit under the back splash tile.
I wonder about sealing the seam where the new counter needs the old backsplash. Not trivial - and probably should have started before the new counter was slipped in place.
In my neck of the woods that stuff is called 'Block Board' - most of it comes out of Asia - it's cheap - finish it properly and it will serve you well.
wow, I can't believe he didn't put at least 4 coats of sealer on all sides edges and end cuts...he then screwed the whole thing in and tells the owners to put a finish on it...they will never be able to seal the whole thing now...you seal it BEFORE installing
I used WaterLox on my butcherblock counters. After drying and curing, it’s food safe and waterproof. We don’t cut on it, though. For all that time and money, just use a cutting board. 😊
I'm about to have butcher block installed and my guy wants to use 2 part epoxy for sealing. I don't know the brand yet, still waiting for him to let me know so I can source it. Any thoughts on Epoxy?
The absolute best finish. I have epoxy and nothing can stain it. You don't have to worry about water from my the sink and washing hands. It's indestructible. Ask about UV additives to prevent yellowing over time. Epoxy is king in the kitchen
I am a bit confused. You secured the countertop solidly with screws. Does that allow for expansion? Won't it crack or is expansion contraction not that important? I am in the process of doing this now and a newbie who is watching and reading everything I can. Thanks
Wood onlybexpands lengthwise/along the grain it doesn't expand across grain. The dogbone connectors allow lengthwise/along the grain expansion & screws are set across grain where expansion isn't an issue.
Question, with a mineral oil finish, I had the understanding that once the wood can no longer absorb any more oil, it'll just stay on the surface. So wouldn't that mean you actually can't build up protective layers?
The oil will continue to penetrate deeper into the wood; short of submerging the wood in oil for an extended period of time, it's doubtful that you'll ever saturate the wood, especially since some of the oil will come out when you wash the countertop.
I do have to ask, with butcher block. The way it's anchored, shouldn't it be mounted in a way that allows for wood movement expansion/contraction? It looked like he just screwed it in tightly
I can’t believe he ran straight screws into this from the bottom. You NEVER screw solid wood tight as it doesn’t allow for movement. If you do use screws make sure and drill a large pilot hole, say 1/2” and use a washer, this allows the wood to still expand and contract. Also, finish before you install 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
@@LobeSmash he means to drill a half inch hole through the first layer of wood that is actually part of the cabinet. Then the screw with washer that holds the countertop to the cabinet screws directly into the butcher block. He'll leaves a butcher black fastened down without screwing it directly to the cabinet piece. That way, the screw can shift with the expansion and contraction of the countertop. Also, when doing this you would typically use a panhead screw to help your washer sit flat
Mineral spirits is food safe and will do a good job sealing the counter. If they are smart they wont do any cutting on that counter and only on the block cutout...
To the editors: Those super wide angle lens shots are pretty sweet. And I love the cinematic shots (that a previous commenter already mentioned). There's some beauties in there (the close up shots of tools, the dark lit circular sawing in the kitchen) - seems like you're fully exploring the possibilities of - (what i suspect is quite the expensive :)) new lens. It be nice if you could lessen the bubble effect - (..of the indoor overview shots in particular) - a bit in post production, though. You should be able to do some lens correction quite easily in your editing software (to straighten out the 'fish eye' effect a bit, without losing the overview of the shot) That would also make it a little easier to keep your horizon level in the shots. (In film - a skewed horizon & distorted proportions are normally used to signify "inner turmoil" or a 'disconnect with reality' in the actor. Most viewers will have that internalized / will "feel" that there is something 'off') If the lens correction is too much work; maybe only make the horizon level in the center of those shots. That would make some difference already Other than that - looks good. Very interested to see how this film style will develop as you guys become more familiar with the lens, and everything becomes second nature. Keep up the good work :)
Not in wood lol, but what he should have done is cut the hole for it outside...why bring it into the customers house and make all that extra dust, and you can have 360 access around the top outside.
@@bmac1629 also i would have sealed the counter at least one coat after the cut out and before installing the sink, give it some protection if waters gets in under that flange over the years.
A big N-O to the mineral oil. It didn't work on my hevea wood at all. I had to re-seal it. Used Watc and am happy with that. Yur bad advice cost me a lot of time.
chip and flake over the years....so lame every material has its pros and cons, comes down taste and cost save up a few years and use solid strip butcher block, relegate the finger joint crap to the garage work bench elongate the screw holes to allow for some expansion contraction
Been agonizing about butt joints vs 45 miters on mine. I have a track saw so cuts are no problem. 45 degree lets you glue the pieces together without worrying (as much) about wood expansion/contraction. If the individual boards are all the same width and the grain/color are similar, a miter joint will look really good & look like it flows around the corner. I’ve seen some on the interweb where that wasn’t the case, and they look terrible Butt joints at 90 degrees don’t flow, so the joint looks amateurish. Also, opinions vary on whether to glue them. At 90 degrees, one “board” swells one way and the other swells the other. I dont see how you can glue them without something coming apart. Maybe only at the center like a breadboard table end? Other problem with butt joint is that you have to rip off the rounded edge on the long piece or you get a gap in the joint. Ripping a 12’ piece of butcher block isn’t something I’d want to do on a table saw. Track saw should be just fine, though
![Twenty One Pilots - “The Line” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/E2Rj2gQAyPA/mqdefault.jpg)
Glad to see them using nathan from generation next on his own. Nice easy job for his first job. He has the look and smarts to do well on the show.
It is great to see Nathan's involvement with the show continue. However, he has done a few other segments for ATOH since his generation next season. He's been a good addition.
Sure he's being groomed to replace some of the other guys as they get closer to retirement. He's def got a great future ahead
This isn't Nathan's first job. He installed a sliding door in a lady's house before this.
4:04 Note the back cut Nathan did on the longer piece of countertop. Put a 15-20 degree miter cut there means only the top edge meets the wall, and ensures a nice snug fit. If he'd left it a square cut, and the drywall stuck out more on the bottom than the top, the top would not have fit flush. And that cut is hidden anyway by the second piece the homeowner sticks in (which has a square cut because the cut is visible on the outside end).
What if the second piece was not flush either? Would you bother with a back cut or would it even look bad with such a small piece? Thanks for the comment, I like seeing people talk about design details
Smart!
What if we hide the line cut ?
At what time did he do that miter cut,,,i didnt see it at 4:04.....???
@@kevreilly7 he's just pointing out where you can see how that cut met up with the drywall
I love you guys! Y'all have been making it look like I know what I'm doing for twenty years now!!!
Should have been a tag team Nathan and Richard.
I like Rubio monocoat, a hard wax oil to finish the raw wood. Expensive…but worth every penny.
waterlox is a food safe finish, I use that all the time
Pretty much all finishes are food safe once cured. But, polyurethane needs to be sanded before you can apply a maintenance coat, something you don't need to do with mineral oil or salad bowl finish. That's really important. Also, mineral oil doesn't really build "layers", it's more about saturating the wood with oil, and that can take several applications
Well your supose to mineral oil it every day for a month then I think you do it as maintenance once a or twice a month depending using for food. Eg. Rolling dough. I wouldn't cut on it.
Does everything that a good workbench should. Fold and unfolds with ease! Clamps are sturdy and easy to use. ++++!
Lobstah juice will stain that something wicked.
Nice tip on keeping the Butcher Block Countertop up nice for years.
I would have much preferred a miter cut for the corner transition to the little stove piece.
Or at the very least have the planks run in the same direction as the main counter. Either way would make it feel less tacked on.
Mineral oil is a major endocrine disruptor. I prefer melting food grade beeswax in with MCT oil as a non toxic wood sealer
Interesting comment for this video! I’m going to be installing my butcher block soon and have been wondering if there are harmless, natural alternatives for sealing. Much appreciated
Join us for tomorrow's episode . . When Tawmmy an Nahrm re-purpose that over-sized sink cut out into a 2 foot cutting board.
You take drugs Danny?
Yup if you put 2 factory edged together you will get a rut at the join which will collect all the stuff you hate.
Every other video i have seen tape the butcher block before cutting
Joining the return with an eased edge. Now there's a little trough in the middle of the countertop.
The short return on the right side will more than likely split over time. Wood is going to move and that's one place you never use glue.
All these "experts" forget to mention what to do when your walls are NOT square
Look up “scribing” 👍
@@MHamlin30 thank you. My point was all these experts think everything goes smooth
Most finishes are food safe once cured. Think about your dining room table. Sure, you wouldn’t cut directly on it, but you’re not gonna throw out a piece of food that touches it.
Good point.
Coming up next: Ripin out the whole kitchen because it looks like a Camp Crystal Lake cabin
😂😂😂
Awesome thanks
It only took him 5:48 from start to finish. And with no measuring! Of course he used a Festool circular saw. I have a Makita so it’s going to take much longer…probably 3 weeks.
Yea they always make it look easy. My walls were not square so i sanded for days,,,smh
Informative, thanks for posting.
No problem!
Teak is the way to go.. yes it leaves marks if you actually butcher ..but you don’t have oil it all the time ....
Should have sealed bottom before installation. Also, not rounding corners?
if you use mineral oil to seal it, you have to keep applying it once a month forever?? seems like a huge pain
Butcher block oil is better and lasts longer and doesn't have to be applied as often as mineral oil.
Has Festool track saw, yet no Domino 700 to join the pieces??
Most butcherblock is 1.5" thick. The old countertop material was much thinner, so something happened behind the scenes to allow the new material to magically fit under the back splash tile.
laminate counters are built up thinner around the edges.
"It's not in my lipstick, pal."
Like the new camera work
@@Kevin-mp5of really? You should look into that.
@@brianglade848 agreed.
@@Kevin-mp5of English please?
@@Kevin-mp5of 🤡
@@brianglade848 It’s English but not proper it’s unintelligible.
I wonder about sealing the seam where the new counter needs the old backsplash. Not trivial - and probably should have started before the new counter was slipped in place.
It will be sealed by a thin bead of silicone, which i hope Nathan did before he left.
sillicone after install.
In my neck of the woods that stuff is called 'Block Board' - most of it comes out of Asia - it's cheap - finish it properly and it will serve you well.
Cheap?? Ya get what ya pay for
wow, I can't believe he didn't put at least 4 coats of sealer on all sides edges and end cuts...he then screwed the whole thing in and tells the owners to put a finish on it...they will never be able to seal the whole thing now...you seal it BEFORE installing
What kind of sealer do you use? Won't it go dry after you seal the sides especially against the wall?
@@Kt-cn2rq We used Tung oil, several coats at least, both sides before instalation
Thats i watch multiple videos of different people
I used WaterLox on my butcherblock counters. After drying and curing, it’s food safe and waterproof. We don’t cut on it, though. For all that time and money, just use a cutting board. 😊
It has to be back painted at least
You can’t seal just one side or it will potato chip on you
I'm about to have butcher block installed and my guy wants to use 2 part epoxy for sealing. I don't know the brand yet, still waiting for him to let me know so I can source it. Any thoughts on Epoxy?
The absolute best finish. I have epoxy and nothing can stain it. You don't have to worry about water from my the sink and washing hands. It's indestructible. Ask about UV additives to prevent yellowing over time. Epoxy is king in the kitchen
He should applied some starter coats of mineral oil before install
What about a stain could you put a stain on then use the mineral oil over top of that
Next remove the tile and replace.
I am a bit confused. You secured the countertop solidly with screws. Does that allow for expansion? Won't it crack or is expansion contraction not that important? I am in the process of doing this now and a newbie who is watching and reading everything I can. Thanks
Confused as well
Hey there should have been at least predrilled holes. About 1/2” and center the screw with a washer in the middle.
Wood onlybexpands lengthwise/along the grain it doesn't expand across grain. The dogbone connectors allow lengthwise/along the grain expansion & screws are set across grain where expansion isn't an issue.
@@ChubbyUnicorn You need to do some research bud. wood expands and contracts in width. wood will barely move in length
Would have liked to see an epoxied mitre for the return. Looks much better
Can anyone tell me if I can use a masons miter on butcher block?why/why not?
I use tung oil, not a tung oil blend but 100% tung oil
Why not boiled linseed oil?
Whoever put the music on this should be fired.
😂
Question, with a mineral oil finish, I had the understanding that once the wood can no longer absorb any more oil, it'll just stay on the surface. So wouldn't that mean you actually can't build up protective layers?
The oil will continue to penetrate deeper into the wood; short of submerging the wood in oil for an extended period of time, it's doubtful that you'll ever saturate the wood, especially since some of the oil will come out when you wash the countertop.
Who applies mineral oil with a knife like that?
I do have to ask, with butcher block. The way it's anchored, shouldn't it be mounted in a way that allows for wood movement expansion/contraction? It looked like he just screwed it in tightly
It's indoors. As long as the wood is completely dried to the humidity inside the house there shouldn't be an issue
@@theaceofspades39 🤔 my house varies from 70% humidity in summer to 30% in winter. Still no issue?
Expansion brackets.
Wood expands lengthwise not width wise the dogbones allow for length expansion, the screws are set widthwise where there isn't expansion.
@@ChubbyUnicorn again do some research. wood expands more in width
He mentioned that we can get a mineral oil with Tung oil.... What is that? And from where?
I can’t believe he ran straight screws into this from the bottom. You NEVER screw solid wood tight as it doesn’t allow for movement. If you do use screws make sure and drill a large pilot hole, say 1/2” and use a washer, this allows the wood to still expand and contract. Also, finish before you install 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
How do you secure screws to a hole bigger than the screw. Seen this comment a few times without any meaningful explanation.
@@LobeSmash he means to drill a half inch hole through the first layer of wood that is actually part of the cabinet. Then the screw with washer that holds the countertop to the cabinet screws directly into the butcher block. He'll leaves a butcher black fastened down without screwing it directly to the cabinet piece. That way, the screw can shift with the expansion and contraction of the countertop. Also, when doing this you would typically use a panhead screw to help your washer sit flat
Happy wife, happy life. The Mr. doesn't have to do anything by write the check. The Mrs. is as happy as a clam in wahm watah.
@@brianglade848 1792 bourbon, my friend.
He should have got a bigger end piece and make a miter cut it would look so much better than the way he did it.
Yes but I imagine this was a very limited budget project. They didn’t even have contractor finish the top.
Don't glue the butcher block together, the clamps are good enough and glue can cause issues when the wood expands at different rates.
The next generation takes the reins.
Can we get the guy some light to work with in that kitchen
❤
Mineral spirits is food safe and will do a good job sealing the counter. If they are smart they wont do any cutting on that counter and only on the block cutout...
Mineral oil....
@@trobbins0000 same difference! Lol
Nope, mineral oil!
@@bblakester69 it's a joke dummy. Hence the lol.
@@jeffwilson1399 mineral spirits would add a nice kick to your food. 😁
Wutung oil and polyurethane are food safe.
That looks absolutely horrible without mitering that cut.
I picked up on that too. Countertop is beautiful. Maybe a miter with a jointer connection? Or dowels to bind it?
@@DavidOliveira-gy2dg literally anything!! The pattern of the wood takes a complete 180 turn and looks really really bad.
"It's so easy, Kevin can do it."
Anyone else concerned about that plunge cut he made with a circular saw?
No
why would you be concerned about that?
Does Kevin seem like he's super tired to anyone? Did he just get over the Rona or something?
He definitely sounded different. I had to do a double take to see who was talking.
What the h... is going on with that island countertop?
Heat resistant resin and flood coat that b
Come on Jared.
Never showed how he bonded it?
To the editors:
Those super wide angle lens shots are pretty sweet.
And I love the cinematic shots (that a previous commenter already mentioned). There's some beauties in there (the close up shots of tools, the dark lit circular sawing in the kitchen) - seems like you're fully exploring the possibilities of - (what i suspect is quite the expensive :)) new lens.
It be nice if you could lessen the bubble effect - (..of the indoor overview shots in particular) - a bit in post production, though.
You should be able to do some lens correction quite easily in your editing software (to straighten out the 'fish eye' effect a bit, without losing the overview of the shot)
That would also make it a little easier to keep your horizon level in the shots.
(In film - a skewed horizon & distorted proportions are normally used to signify "inner turmoil" or a 'disconnect with reality' in the actor.
Most viewers will have that internalized / will "feel" that there is something 'off')
If the lens correction is too much work;
maybe only make the horizon level in the center of those shots. That would make some difference already
Other than that - looks good.
Very interested to see how this film style will develop as you guys become more familiar with the lens, and everything becomes second nature.
Keep up the good work :)
@@brianglade848 Kevin left u talking by urself cause he deleted his comments..
I would rather do polyurethane just don’t cut food on it
Kevin isn’t the young buck he once was.
If he gives that lipstick a go he might look a bit younger 😜
Should have used under mount sink.
Not in wood lol, but what he should have done is cut the hole for it outside...why bring it into the customers house and make all that extra dust, and you can have 360 access around the top outside.
@@bmac1629 also i would have sealed the counter at least one coat after the cut out and before installing the sink, give it some protection if waters gets in under that flange over the years.
I would totally cut on those counter tops so they look nice and ugly later with a bunch of knife marks
I made a cutting board out of extra butcher block I had
A big N-O to the mineral oil. It didn't work on my hevea wood at all. I had to re-seal it. Used Watc and am happy with that. Yur bad advice cost me a lot of time.
chip and flake over the years....so lame
every material has its pros and cons, comes down taste and cost
save up a few years and use solid strip butcher block, relegate the finger joint crap to the garage work bench
elongate the screw holes to allow for some expansion contraction
That's one depressing kitchen!😂
This isn’t an ATOH video. Shots intentionally blurred, weird upbeat music, and no explanation of the actual carpentry steps. Gahbage.
341st
The entire backsplash flexes horribly at 2:02. Do it right and replace that awful backsplash too. In for a penny, in for a pound as they say!
Tom Silvas' replacement is a joke
Who the hell are these guys??
Beavis and Butthead. . . 🤘🤘🤘
Cheap replacements with less talent
“Not in my lipstick!” Nothing like a dash of fragile masculinity, fella.
Wow demo.with no gloves on....smh
First
$9000 Festool track saw. . And they show one cut. . That takes 20 seconds.
You're shopping in the wrong places my friend.
My Makita corded track saw with an upgraded track was way less expensive and does a beautiful job
Garbage work. 45 that corner.
what would the advantage be to miter the corner?
Been agonizing about butt joints vs 45 miters on mine. I have a track saw so cuts are no problem. 45 degree lets you glue the pieces together without worrying (as much) about wood expansion/contraction. If the individual boards are all the same width and the grain/color are similar, a miter joint will look really good & look like it flows around the corner. I’ve seen some on the interweb where that wasn’t the case, and they look terrible
Butt joints at 90 degrees don’t flow, so the joint looks amateurish. Also, opinions vary on whether to glue them. At 90 degrees, one “board” swells one way and the other swells the other. I dont see how you can glue them without something coming apart. Maybe only at the center like a breadboard table end?
Other problem with butt joint is that you have to rip off the rounded edge on the long piece or you get a gap in the joint. Ripping a 12’ piece of butcher block isn’t something I’d want to do on a table saw. Track saw should be just fine, though
Meh
A wooden kitchen counter top: that's most idiot! Formica or Arborite. please!!!