How To Fix Baseboard With BIG GAPS Or Doesn't Meet Up! Tips And Tricks Tutorial DIY For Beginners!
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- Опубликовано: 6 дек 2021
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On This episode I'll be showing you how to fix baseboard with BIG GAPS or just doesn’t meet up! Also this is great repair tips and tricks if a part of your baseboard gets damage and you just need a portion of the baseboard trim to be replaced. Stay tuned and I’ll show you my method and how I do it!
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#baseboards #trim #crownmoulding 
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Time is money! It the amount of time it takes to do all what you did, I could have bought a new piece and replace the entire short piece in a 10th of the time and moved on to another project. Yes, if it was a special order piece or something and all you have is a piece of left over scrap, this would work. As mentioned in other comments, use bondo, not wood filler. You showed in the first example how the wood filler shrinks and cracks out, yet you used wood filler again on the second fix….again, time is money! The more you do to have to fill cracks, wait to dry, sand, maybe have to fill again, sand….you’re wasting your money by spending too much time. By a new board, make a good measurement, cut, install, get paid. Now, on a good note though, I do like your idea of thinking out of the box on doing a splice like that. Well done, final product looked great!
Thank you so much for sharing and bring open minded! Yes I agree time is money, but this is mostly for the average DIYer not contractors. Thank you for such a meaningful comment! 🙏🏽😊
No doubt. Cheap stock base board, just but a full piece and cope the ends. But if it's a stock that is beyond budget or historic, no box store nor lumber mill will have suxh a moulding.
Just playing devils advocate. How much time are you saving by running to the store? I mean, if you have spare base on hand, yeah, replace it. But a run to Menards or wherever, going through check out and returning? Theoretically this is faster.
No tip or trick replaces measure twice, cut once, but this isn't a bad technique.
Maybe he’s just doing it for himself or being paid to show others how… I’m thinking you were too direct on why he is doing this. Not everyone’s in a hurry to make money!
@@FixThisHouse are you kidding me? Get off youtube
So instead of having one gap you created two? :P
Hi! The point is to make the joint touch.
The gaps are minimal which are just mini gaps because you can’t make it so perfect. Either way you’ll need to wood fill it. You can’t depend just on wood filler to make it touch like the first situation other wise it will crack on the future. If you really watch the video it shows I ended up making the baseboard touch with the CA glue.
Yup. Correct fix would have been to take the entire piece off and replace with correct size. No seams
That's what I was thinking. And let's just cut it wherever and not hit a stud and nail it in the middle of the board where it doesn't touch the wall 👍
@@FixThisHouse could’ve just glued a popsicle stick in the gap then patched over.
@@D.J.283 there are situations where you have to piece a section of trim, say a wall is twelve feet and you on,y have 8’ material. His method is not mine, but sometimes you have to find a solution.
I am a painter and if you use the correct woodfiller and aply it the correct way, you would fixed it without all that replacing work😉
I hope he never does this again
Yes, I honestly didn’t get why he had to do all of this when a filler + sanding + painting takes literally 15 min to complete. Some fillers are much better than the cheap $5 he used. That one does contract as it dries explaining why then next day, he had to redo it completely. Big Stretch should work much better for example.
with my luck... i would create two gaps 😅
Whoa, joined 51 years ago!? Time traveler!?
@@Chris.Rhodes sounds like someone at RUclips forgot to use their own profile!!
I like the idea here. The only question I have is wouldn't it be easier to cut the angles the opposite way? You can pry it off without bothering the rest of the baseboard, and just push the new piece in to stick them together. Plus the surface will be exposed for the glue as opposed to trying to glue it from the inside. It seems like the timing of the activator would be less of an issue.
You had the right idea in the beginning but instead of wood putty you need to use Bondo 3M all purpose puty. Mix bondo and a little hardener fill in the gaps add a second coat if needed sand paint or prime and paint depending on your situation or preference. It works for me.
His first application was better but you need to mask the crack both sides and use PL Premium glue 3x the strength in the crack then use Marrilo Sparkle with white Bond Fast glue mixed in. Sand off all excess filler just filling the crack. Works perfect if you know what your doing.
Wow I genuinely thought you would have had two gaps. That looks very nice. Thank you for sharing this
All beautiful work brings fruits through hard work and no short cut, 🙏🙏🙏🌹
It’s really helpful.God has blessed you with Patience.
Thank you 🙏🏽 so much!
If you’re going to fill it use drywall patch or bondo. The correct and Easiest way to fix it would be just to pull that whole loose piece and cut the next one right.
Well done. Love yr reference to having a light hand when using the mud
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽
Re: initial gap:
1 make sure there isn't movement in the boards - I like to screw them to the wall. (Tip - drill hole through board into wall and push in 2 or 3 electrical wire offcuts with insulation so screw grips - it works.)
2. Caulk gap and use a good quality flexible filler.
Saves alot of hassle!
Very cool method. I'm always looking for a reason to use my multi tool with one of my re toothed blades that I saved from the scrap bin.
Thank you 🙏🏽!
Great technique but if you used 2 part filler to fill the initial crack it would have not cracked again
Great advice! I’ll try that next time and see how it does! 🙏🏽😊👍🏽
@@FixThisHouse as a carpenter for 45 years both production and custom I would have never nailed the short price up to begin with . I would have simply grabbed another length cut it to fit and be done . Word of advise . #1 Never measure what you can scribe. #2 if the base is being painted inside corners are always easier to fill than a bad joint in the run .
2 part filler is not going to live up to the expansion and contraction of homes over time. It will crack and you’re going to have a small mess to fix
@@jgarehart89 hey Josh, I'm a cabinet maker with 12 years of experience. a typical well built house (at least in my area) will slowly shrink during it's first 6 to 9 months after it has been drywalled and vapor barriered... but after that initial shrinkage, moisture shouldn't be getting into your studs and causing any more wood movement.... if your studs are constantly expanding and contracting, then you have a moisture problem in your walls... in that case, the cracking finish carpentry is the least of your worries lol.
Sorry about long comment. I honestly think 99% of homeowners do not realize what goes into to trimming out a house, let alone doing base, crown, doors/windows etc…. Some might say this way too much work and just replace entire piece, but even THAT will take “time & labor” to do. So, if can get away with Doug a splice and making it disappear after replacing and blending with caulk, filler (if necessary), and paint…..why not😉
Nice repair. Usually do the miters in same direction for a splice when installing. For repairs, really don’t think it would matter if miters going same or opposite directions (but, guess we’ll have to test and try and see how goes over years….and know everyone says something different when comes to miters and splices😉) and as I’ve used 2 part fillers (I’d consider bondo a 2 part, along w/ other epoxies, resigns, etc…), and so on for repairs and installs and it can be time consuming for some jobs. Here’s the thing though, might be a special order profile for base, can’t get any, but homeowner has a scrap and can use for a repair, and it works.
Nice job, looks good, and always hate when walking into a house, especially AFTER WAS JUST REMODELD, and the trim work/details are “ok” at best; compared to ones where you know the trim sub knows what they doing, took time; did amazing job and cared about the work they doing👍🏻
Cheers✌🏻
Thank you so much for such a meaningful comment! You truly understand my thinking! This comment deserves to be pinned! Thank you 💯! 🙏🏽😊
Ooh look at the new teachers pet... Just kidding.. congrats on the 📌
@@titude🤣🤣
@Jesus has given you all. Repent or die. Good point. Totally not what we were talking about, but I can't say that I haven't brought him into my baseboard installation before. Especially after a mistake was made, or I hit my finger etc...
Excellent video. Very helpful. Thanks.
One good habit is to fill all your cracks with caulk before you fill it with wood filler.
Big or small. Don't have to wait on the caulk to dry
Thank you for the tip! 👍🏽😊
I was thinking the same thing 👍🏽
I use Bondo... No brainer.
Actually the best habit would be to do it right the first time
Exactly. Why go through all that trouble attaching another piece of base board?
Dude! I subbed just because of this video. I'm actually making some baseboard heating covers and ran across your video. To really fix something like this though, it would seem like pulling off the trim and making a simple scarf joint would end up being a more fool-proof solution.
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
Nice job.....acrylic sealer works well when fitting skirtings and just water and sponge to finish off smoothly.
Thank you for the advice! 🙏🏽😊
Just use Sherwin Williams spackle, which is one of the best and is so easy that anyone can do it. It dries in a few hours, bonds well, won't crack or shrink when dry, can easily be applied with something like an old credit card or gift card, and it won't damage or discolor the surrounding area. Any excess also cleans up easily with water before setting so that there's no excuse for any sloppy over-application. But if necessary, it can be easily sanded flush by hand with just a few strokes. A thin layer of touch-up paint over top of the cured spackle and it's done. Total time, less than 10 minutes and nobody will notice the repair afterward.
@2:42 Consider the blades thickness of the cutting multitool, to avoid a gap between the new piece and the existing baseboards. Maybe shifting the new piece by blade thickness before cutting the 2nd side of the existing baseboard or first cutting 45° gap into existing baseboards and then second measuring & cutting the new piece according to this new gap.
Second cut should be two blade thicknesses forward of cut line
Very clever!!
That is a good practice.thank you
Thank you so much for appreciating my technique! 🙏🏽😊
Really good idea. Nice work.
🙏🏽! Thank you!
Very good job thanks for the tip!!
Nice works. I like your instructing technique.
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
The answer to filling a crack is never to make 2 cracks. If this is a high end job, you would fix the fundamental issue, which is the work itself. Replace the piece of trim. If its not as important, bondo. If it's community housing, just caulk and run.
I agree, rip it out and start over on that piece. Bondo yes are smelly stable friend. It's going to get beaten , yes caulk.
I loved your evaluation of circumstances because it is so true. The work needs to meet the tolerances of the job site or customer.
@@ryanolson I appreciate your comment. I hope I didn't sound like I was trashing this guy. I'm not a snobby trades person. I realize that on site, people have invented all sorts of crafty ways to solve problems. But sometimes I see solutions that exceed a certain standard for being counter intuitive. I will give this guy credit for coming up with a different technique. I bet it even has its uses elsewhere. But I have a feeling this instance is not a place to re invent the wheel. Sorry for the rambling comment. I'm a few glasses in.
Really love your videos. Thank you
This guy……..what an amazing talent individual
Oh man wish I saw this video last month! I ended up feeling many gaps like that from a not so good baseboard install with Dap extreme stretch chaulk and then I used Dap wood filler. Then I painted it. So far looks perfect unless you get on your knees and try to look for the blemishes but I just hope it doesn't crack next year.
When it cracks (if it cracks) you'll have to spend 10 minutes and $.10 of material to fix it again. What a nightmare!
@@redhatuncleputzin9772 It failed... didn't crack but the warmer weather made it expand and pushed the material out. Oddly enough everything is still intact but the material is pruding out
Very smart, thx!
Thank you 🙏🏽
Dude!! Thanks for the video. Very helpful!!
I carve into the the crack from both sides to create a flare and I fill it using either bondo or mh ready patch to fill it in, 2 coats, sand, prime and paint
Fantastic!
Helps when you have the right tools.
I've filled gaps by cutting a piece of 45 shim for tighter fit, it worked perfect.
Great concept
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
Calk all you need is calk it stays flexible and you can get it looking amazing
Wow no coments
this is the best ideas ( tricks) thank you so much for shering with us
You’re welcome! 👍🏽😊
Great job , I would probably just replace the skirting board myself , lol
That works too! Thank you 🙏🏽!
nice one!!!
Thanks bro!
I think for me I would have taken Durham's water putty filled in the cracks come back the next day sanded it and painted it and it would have been fine in my opinion
Thank you for sharing your technique!
I appreciate the creativity but this is a tremendous amount of work and additional risk. Why not just use caulk
Hi! Caulking shrinks and will not blend well with paint.
It's a waste of time. People take in a whole room. They don't notice a caulk seam once it's painted over.
I must admit, after running many miles of base when first learning finish carpentry I’ve never found myself actually installing a poorly fit piece. If it didn’t fit I’d recut and install a new one. Alternatively, when running base left to right I would check my splice joint first and make it good and leave the short end to the right. That could be covered up with a cope if it was short by a sixteenth or so. That’s how a pro would deal with it and make it good. For a novice they’d be better served just replacing the piece. It would be a good lesson learned.
My thoughts exactly. The cope will "cope" with that problem. Also I've been an inch short before (inch monster) but never 3/16" 😆
Yeah you said it right. Just recut the piece. Use the miscut piece someplace else. On the homes we do a gap would never fly.
Yup I would never leave a gap like that
What's a cope?
@@TheRds797 easiest answer is to go to RUclips and search for “coping baseboard”
Interesting technique. Thank you for taking the time to show us alternative ways to repairing gaps without condeming the entire piece.
I had previously installed baseboards in my basement but instead of just brad nailing them on I used pl adhesive on the back, then nailed them in. I regret ever doing that cause now I have to cut a section of baseboard out to make a small notch in the drywall to run a second subwoofer cable for my hometheater in between wall studs. I think this method just saved me from having to spend 30$ on new boards.
Cool trick
Thank you for appreciating my technique! 🙏🏽😊
Very nice I like it
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
Just fill the original crack!
I found a wood filler that's white and it's like cotton candy . It goes all the way into to those gaps and smooths out perfect and it dries in no time . Ready to paint.
Nice thank you! Please let me know what product or if you can share with the community! Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
Good job.. any small mistake can make two gaps instead original gap.
Thanks you! 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
What a cluster. Pull the whole piece off and measure correctly. 👌🏻
When I do similar things I always make my first cut a little longer can always trim but find it hard to stretch it
Thank you for sharing your method 🙏🏽😊
I like this way better.
Thank you 🙏🏽!
I just used my board stretcher 👍
Alex painter's caulk buddy doesn't shrink.
I always keep a few wood shims with my drill and hand tool bag, in this case I wound have tapped one between the floor and the baseboards to prevent nicks to the flooring
I always install a quarter round or shoe molding in addition to the baseboards
Umm base is not always mdf. Only on lower end homes. Some builders well use finger joint pine, birch, poplar, cedar..... You get my point.
2 new gaps. Genius!
Thanks! 👍🏽😊
Bondo would have been the perfect fix and you can sand it in 15 min and it would never crack....... Now with all that said......I did really like the idea of using that template piece with the 45's cut on it as a guide to help oscillate another cut...... Definitely will come in handy for something some day....... So thank you for that.
I like the idea of cutting it with the scrap piece to make sure the cut and angle are perfect. But why cut a scarf joint? Just makes it harder if you’re going to be filling and sanding anyway
Hi! Reason for scarf joint is to have a stronger connection. Sure you can use a butt joint but over time a butt joint will crack due to expansion and contraction of wood material it’s connected too and eventually will crack.
Scarf joints look better and increase the surface atea contact for glue ups, i was trained to do 30 not 45 but to eaxh his own.
thanks - what about when skirting boards come away and detach at the corner - do you have a vid on this?
Class I was thinking the same 👍🏻😂😂😂
Finally! Someone who understands me 👍🏽😊🙏🏽😭
Hi there.
By mistake my mason makes a little cut on aluminium door frame by angle grinder.
So may you tell what will be the best alternative to fill that cut .
Or you use polyurethane pva glue in the gap, leave it over night and the. Glue would of bubbled and expanded and filled the hole solid. All you need to do is cut the excess glue and paint... don't over complicate a small issue. I use the poly pva glue on all my finishing lines and 10/10 times, it comes out perfect.
I never 2 piece a full trim wall, especially at install, just cut to length, budget can't be that tight and it's great your skill level allows you to do this but time is a huge factor here, both during initial install or a repair.... Just cut a full length piece.
Ummm the longest piece you can possibly get is 16 feet and many walls are well over 20 feet. What is the correct way is to use CA glue and glue the 2 pieces together prior to nailing
Use bondo. Wood filler does not work with MDF very well. Thanks for the video
I use 5 minute hot mud. Doesn't shrink or crack and absorbs paint better than caulking. So it doesn't flash.
Thank you for sharing! 🙏🏽😊
Why not just using elastic caulking and paint on top of that?
I would do that and it would double as an expansion joint.
You are out of your mind dude.
I might 🤷🏽♂️
You can easily fix this with acrylic without needing this much work
And ofcourse using finger to spread it properly
Vinyl spackling works for me
👍🏽😊
How I came to this video I really don't know but I enjoyed it and thanks for the info.
Thank you so much! Mean a lot! 🙏🏽😊
I have the same situation but the ends of the baseboard are butted together, what should I use to fill the crack it's like an 1/8 inch crack
Hi! Since it’s such a small gap you could probably get away by loading it up with 2P-10 glue and activator and just cover the surface with wood filler. Prime then paint. 🙏🏽
What if you had one more piece of wood behind the template when you cut the template? Would that not make it fit automatically?
Very well, done, I'm sure only the discerning customer or DIY home owner would be drawn to eliminating a seam in a baseboard molding. Including such details in a home is costly in either time or money. In times like we are in now, where climate change and a looming WW3 prevail we can only hope to be back to a world where closing the gap on a baseboard is in our top 100 of our to-do lists.
2 part filler or CT1 with silicone shaping tool, CT1 is paintable.
Thank you for the advice! 🙏🏽
You can use acrylic white caulking that will be much practical, easier and fast.
Thank you for the feedback! 👍🏽😊
Non shrinking paintable caulk would have been much faster and easier.
Can bondo be used for this situation
Yes you can!
Bondo may be strong and looks nice but it has nothing on a house settling and wood trim naturally expanding and contracting with changes in humidity. It will crack. Just give it time.
I would've popped the base board out and made the joint meet. Caulk the inside corner. Make the exposed area as nice as you can. I could've literally used caulking, spackling and paint and fixed this eye sore in 30 minutes. Meanwhile you used more material than the job was actually worth.
if the blade of your oscillating tool is long enough, i would cut my templet piece with outside corners, this will make taking out the piece you want to remove way easyer.
Thank you for sharing! 🙏🏽😊
How about a shim under the baseboard to protect the floor while you are cutting
I'd go caulk and paint, provides a flexible filler
Thank you for sharing your advice 👍🏽😊
Bondo All Purpose would probably be better than wood filler.
Hi! Thank you for the tip. Would it hold up and not crack over time from your experience?
@@FixThisHouse I just discovered it myself browsing through DYI RUclips channels. I haven't personally tried it yet, but the results look pretty good from the channels I've watched.
New subscriber here. Thanks for the videos.
@@jpascua3824 Thank you so much for sharing your experience, but most especially thank you for the support and love!
Your wood fill cracked over night because you put waayyyy to much on to begin with. Your first layer should have packed the cavity all the way but left at least 1/16th below the surface of the baseboard so it can bond and shrink (which is why it cracks) and then you next coat should fill gap with now a good backing and pulled tight with troule. If it is still not perfect you feather coat with Dryden to merge both pieces. But if it’s a bond you don’t to crack again you use a two part epoxy wood filler made for stair stringers. Minwax makes the best one
I would have nail and seal cavity first by unibond then light fill at the end.
I would cut the miters the opposite direction and used a flexible caulk like Big Stretch in the joints.
Thank you for sharing your method!
@@FixThisHouse don't caulk it. Caulk shrinks and you'll still see the gap.
I would use Durhams or Bondo and that gap would have disappeared and never cracked open.
dry wall mud works the best and its easy to melt the seam with a spong...
If you don't have wood filler, what works very good is drywall mud.
Take some fine wooden dust and mix it with glue for wood. Fill the cracks/holes with it. When it gets dry, use some fine sandpaper and paint it. All done in minutes, no fuss...
Just a little saw dust and wood glue sand paper and white paint. Fixed lol 😂
sparkling would have filled that one coat without shrinking
Thank you for your feedback!
what about all the brush strokes and the still seeing the high of the wood filler?
💯👍👍
Thank you 🙏🏽!
Use loctite construction adhesive first then fill, sand, and paint!
Would bondo work on this application ?
maybe stretch caulk instead of wood filler ? curious if it works for big gaps
No. Way more noticeable. Caulk shrinks. Getting it flush, smooth and looking like wood is too difficult. Bondo, or recut your piece. Always wood glue and sand your outsides and seams. If you Rely on DAP and paint.. a carpenter you ain’t.
It's better and easy fill the first crack with bondo I always use it. To cracks and big holes
I will try that! Thank you for the advice! 🙏🏽😊
To be fair, the crack appeared that way due to it being MDF and the MDF sucking the moisture out of the fill. On pine baseboards, it wouldnt be that bad
Use “builders bog” or similar 2 part filler. Would have saved you many hours. Hard as nails once dry and dries ready to sand in 10mins.
Thats crazy now you have 2 joins. easiest would be take out the shortest one and replace with longer one