Ha ha. Thanks mate! I play with a guitarist who puts it on all the knobs of his pedal board. His settings stay put, but he can still tweak them. The first time I saw that I thought he was a genius!
@@davidhurrell9930 It sounds great. I raised the film caps at the front so the 30Hz can get through. I stopped using batteries years ago and use a homemade phantom power box so I can use any opamp I want
Nice one. In this circuit you won't "harm" anything with the wrong pots. The centre frequencies may shift slightly, and the sweep of the pots may be a little uneven, so, yeah the 50k are optimal for the design. Best of luck with your project!
@@RobMods update on my build, the preamp sounded good, bass and treble has a wide range in boosting/cutting. I like it coz it made my TRBX305 sound alive, the bass guitar itself sounded too warm and dull. I replaced the 5 way switch of my bass to a 3 way switch and used it as a treble cap selector using the choices you've put up in the pdf. 😊👍
Cool build. But maybe if possible try to lower the treble control a little bit. I find that 7kHz is a little too high for it to do much of anything noticeable in a big mix and you’d almost never want to boost treble on a bass that high up in the spectrum
Remember, 7khz is just the peak of a fairly gentle slope. But there's a bit more info in the PDF on my website that gives more cap selections for different centre frequencies. It really depends on the pickups. For a stingray pickup wired in parallel, it will have a typical resonant peak of 9-10khz. But a passive P pickup, loaded by the vol and tone pots may roll of as low as 2khz!.. That's the great thing about making your own, you can tweak it to really suit your bass and rig. Thanks for watching my content mate!
Man srly thanks a lot for share your work, i just bought a pair of MC33178 smd version, but i think i can work to make a PCB, just one question,how can i add a mid control?
hi!!! thanks for shareing this circuit, i´m going to build it, i´m plannig to install it in a cheap jazz bass copy. Is ok to use the the input impedance of 100n and 1M for C1 and R2 if i´m going to use only the 2 band preamp, can i use it with the passive circuit?
@@RobMods hi, i have a question, i installed the active circuit after the passive circuit, and works well but the problem i have is that i have much less volume from the bass i don't know what the problem is.
I have used a 105 250v cap insted of 25v For the c2 because it was the only cap that did not send to me when i ordered and i found this For replacement, i don't know if this is the problem.
@@RobMods thank you sir rob, gonna try this. I'm excited to make it for my own custom bass I made. By the way, I use metal film for Nanofards, monolitic and ceramic for the uf and pf. Hope it was fine.
Rob, what really changes and makes differents in the bass guitar sound, is it pickups or pre-amp !? I have Cirrus bass that feels so good but it sounds, somewhat, "sterile" (plane) so if I wont to make some modification, what would really make difference in sound?
Thanks for watching. If you enjoyed this video, and especially if you've made this project, please consider donating to my channel via the "THANKS" button. It really helps me create more videos. Cheers! Rob.
Well, you can have a 3-band Baxandall filter around a single opamp. The classic 3-band Stingray preamp is like this. (And there's lots of other examples.) But the mid control is a little underwhelming IMHO. Very low Q factor and not much cut and boost. A much better option is to have another separate opamp stage for the mid control. In the future I may do a standalone mid control that can be added to this or the other (fender tonestack) preamp I've shown on the channel.
Hi Muhammed. There's some info about this in the PDF on my website. The combination of these two resistors control the amount of voltage gain the opamp produces. For a circuit like this, in non-inverting mode, with (RG1 as the feedback resistor and RG2 as the resistor that goes to virtual earth), the voltage gain is calculated like this: (RG1 + RG2) / RG2. For example, if both resistors are 10k the gain is 2. This equates to 6dB. Thanks for watching my videos!
it's not working for me..i don't know why.. i make more than 30 clone pedals and never fail😢 i use tl072 ic..i check every part and soldering... i possible to get the multimeter numbers of this schematic? thank you 🙏
I'm afraid it's almost impossible to know what might be wrong with yours. Make sure the Vref is 1/2 your Vcc voltage. (IOW, battery voltage minus the diode's drop.) And pins 1,2,3,5,6,7 should all be at the Vref. The tone stack should be at the Vref as well - pots, resistors etc. The input and output should be at earth, IOW, 0V. I assume you used magnification to check the soldering. I've been held up with the tiniest hair of solder bridging stripboard tracks in the past. I couldn't see with my naked eye. Also, did you try testing the current draw? If the chip is dead, the current consumption won't change with your 072 removed. If everything else checks out, then perhaps try an audio probe. Did you test it before installing in your bass? Perhaps there's a problem around it, like a bad jack in the bass. Remember, its ring connector turns on the preamp. Gosh, there's so many other things I could suggest. Even a simple little project like this can be a head scratching experience. But I'm sure you'll learn something either way. Best of luck!
@@RobMods ok...fail the IC... I found it unbelievable that this TL072 was the problem because it was brand new... and the last check before I threw it..i hit the right spot.
@@nikoszisidisgrmstudio Yes, in the last few years I've had a few ICs that were dead on arrival. Frustrating in this day and age. That's why the socket is a good idea. Glad you got it worked out mate!
@@RobMods I noticed that it doesn't have much boost the volume... but the filters work fine.. i test it external on stingray style passive humbucker ..and if i hit strong the strings slight distortion will be heard.
Hello, The impedance of the pickup set made any difference in how this preamp works? for example if the impedance on the pickups is low, is there anything to modify in the circuit? Nice project!!
If you run the pickup straight into the preamp and have your volume pot on the output, then yes I'd reduce the input z of the pre and also think about a capacitive load for the pickups to make them sound more natural. If you have a pot or two (volume, blend etc) between the pickup(s) and preamp, then there's no need to do this. It's the direct load on the pickups that effect their resonance. I talk about this in Project Berocca Parts 8 and 9. Plus in a few other videos. I'm glad you like my channel!
Yes, but you'll have to work out a place to put the battery. If its a typical three-pot control layout, you will have to work out how to add the extra control.
I don't see why not. It will be fine for 12-14V (car battery) operation. Since you would be using a low Z line source, I would make the input impedance lower for best noise performance. IOW, lower the input resistor and raise the coupling cap proportionately. You may also want to raise the treble control to say 10-12khz and lower the bass control to say 30hz for hi-fi type operation (depending on your speakers of course). Thanks for watching my channel!...
this material is really appreciated and i know beggers can't be choosers buuut.... why wasn't a bill of materials included? now i have to scan the schematic and write it out myself. if im up to it, i might edit this comment to include the BoM. and i understand some of the values and components depend on user. but really a simple bom to start the document wouldve been fantastic
You make a good point. It is such a small circuit, and I usually have all these parts on hand, I really didn't think about it TBH. But if you post one here, I'll pin it for sure. Cheers.
@@RobModsagain, this is very much appreciated. I have a VM Jaguar that I've been using as a project Bass. first it was adding a passive active switch. then it was changing it to like a Bass VI or a jaguar, w/ a strangle switch. Then the Bass Boost circuit stopped working and I never liked it anyway. Im using this circuit to bring the VM's 4 hole control plate closer to the capabilities of the original 2006 MIJ Jaguar Bass. stacked B/T pot, push pull tone pot for on-off active circuit, and push pull volume for S/P switch. Then either VVT or VT with a big 3 way pickup selector. leaning toward the latter, but id like to hear what anybody thinks.
I use monolithic 1uF caps. I buy them from Jaycar, right over the counter here in Australia. You can also get MKT caps in 1uF, but they are pretty big. That's why I left plenty of room for C2 on the stripboard layout. You could simply leave it out and replace it with a short, but if you like to crank the bass control and slap a lot, be careful of your speakers. You may want to use a smaller C1 to tighten the sub frequencies a little. Cheers!
Hi. Does anyone know if this preamp would work with a one pickup bass like a music man? Obviously I wouldn't need the blend knob. I would imagine that since the blend is just making both pickups go to one out it should work without as it's only one pickup?
Yep this will work with a single pickup. For a stingray set up, with the volume pot on the output and the pickup going directly into the preamp, I'd recommend using fairly low input impedance (around 100k) otherwise the (parallel coil) stingray pickup will sound very hi-fi and strange. Thanks for watching!
@@jblazeby Is the push-pull switch a preamp bypass? If that's the case it should be an A250K or A100k between the pickup and the pre. Just follow the diagram from the PDF on my site. Ignore the blend control and run the hot wire from your pickup to the clockwise lug of the volume pot. (Where the light blue wire goes.)
hello, i am going to build this great preamp. but it's hard for me to find B50K concentric pots.is it okay if i use 100K concentric pots? i'm going to use concentric pots because my bass just have 3 pots hole and do not want to do some wood work e.g drilling new holes
100k will work OK, but the sweep of the pot will be a bit abrupt, and you'll also have more cut and boost, also the frequency centres will be a little off. I'd recommend 50K for sure. Try ebay and ali express. Also try Aguilar, Bartolini, Ernie Ball, Dark Glass, etc. They all use B50K pots in their preamps.
Hi mate! Thanks for the videos - they are awesome! I am trying to make this pre-amp myself but I am struggling to find here is Oz B50k pots which are long enough to go through my bass top. May I ask what shop you got yours from please? Cheers!
I've never seen B50K long-thread pots available from any Aussie guitar parts places. I buy mine from overseas. Sometimes the regular Jaycar Alpha brand pots will go through without any washers on the inside. If I use them like this, I drill a small shallow hole for the anti-rotation lug. Mark the drill with tape so you don't go right through!
@@RobMods Hey mate, I tried to switch the lm358 for a lme49720/lm4562 but somehow the sound is very thin and distorted. I am not an expert in electronics but I wanted to change the lm358 for a higher quality op amp. Would you know how to use the lme49720 or maybe would you know of a high quality op amp I could use. Thanks heaps. PS: I re-watched the whole series on project Berocca, it was great! thanks for the content!
@@RobMods I've been planning to replace the preamp of my TRBX305 and can't find a B50k pot until now, they are very common pots for pedals but they have shorter bushing/threads. I'm even planning to do the darkglass tone capsule and I've found your post in talkbass and your also from Aus. I thought I'm the only one struggling with B50k for guitar pots mounted to the body.
@Rob Mods is 1/4 watts for the resitor would be fine?. And 25v for the caps also?. I'm new to this, and you forgot to add the values of caps and resistors in pdf, so im confused on how many watts for the resistors and how many volts for caps.. Can I also ask for a pcb layout for this?. Thanks man, this can help a lot for me.
@@tatangmo7853 No probs. Yes, 1/4 or 1/2 watt metal film resistors, and the electrolytic caps should be 25v. There's no PCB layout at this stage, but the stripboard layout is very small and very easy to make.
In that case, use an op amp IC with fet input transistors, like a TL072 for example, and set the input impedance very high. Something around 5 - 10 megohms.
Rob, I've been wanting to purchase a $40 wireless set for the guitar, and open it up place the chipboard on the back of the backplate, maybe add an extra antenna stolen from a wifi PC card and install it near the strap button. Either way, it has to be too easy to turn a guitar into a wireless guitar all built in and ran to a 9V battery or rechargable battery. Could you please do this for me, or I will get it to it soon enough.
Hi sir rob, i tried to make a copy of your design and tried to make a pcb design, I somehow manage to create it but I dont know why it doesnt produce a sound, its a complete silent 😅, if you dont mind, can you check my design? I'll send it to you if you want
I really want to know more about making guitar pedal and more can I add you on social media Facebook or Instagram I really want to know more hope you'll help me
I've been on holidays, but my next video will likely be a pedal build. A simple beginner delay pedal built with a PT2399 module. FB/robkiddmusicofficial, insta/rob.mods Glad you like my videos. Cheers Shane!
RUclips some videos on CAD and understand the basics of CAD. Electrical circuits all go point A to point B you just need to know how you want to manipulate each circuit before it gets to B. It is a lot more simpler than it looks. It's just a bit overwhelming at first but nothing more difficult than learning guitar.
Hello Rob, I’m thinking if it’s possible to install two onboard preamps , each witch his own 9v battery each one bringing separate bass and treble , and one blend pot for the out put
I'm not realy sure I'd need two preamps on any of my basses, but if you want to give it a shot, go for it! Even if it doesn't work out, you'll learn from it, and who knows, it might be great for your style of playing. I would say, though, there's no reason to use separate batteries. Just hook both circuits up to the same one. Best of luck with your project!
Bill of Materials:
Caps
100p
470p
3n3
47n
100n
1u
10u x 3 electrolytic 25v
Resistors
1k
4k7 x 2
10k x 3
100k x 3
1M
2M2
Power diode - 1n4148
U1 - TL072 or similar
___________________________
___________________________
C1 - 100n
C2 - 1u w/C5 controls bass center frequency
C3 - 3n3 w/C4 controls treble center frequency
C4 - 470p w/C3 higher cap value lowers freq
C5 - 47n w/C2 higher cap value lowers freq
C6 - 100p
C7 - 10u electrolytic
C8 - 10u electrolytic
C9 - 10u electrolytic
R1 - 2M2
R2 - 1M
R3 - 4k7
R4 - 4k7
R5 - 10k
R6 - 10k
R7 - 10k
R8 - 100k
R9 - 1k
R10 - 100k
R11 - 100k
in Brazil it is very expensive to buy audio equipment. Your channel makes our dream come true!
the blob of blu tack on a board is a brilliant idea. - i cant believe i've been doing electronics since the 80's and never thought of doing that!
Ha ha. Thanks mate! I play with a guitarist who puts it on all the knobs of his pedal board. His settings stay put, but he can still tweak them. The first time I saw that I thought he was a genius!
same i am an electronic engg and they didn't teach this in college 😂
Managed to build one .. Though i had difficulties figuring out the electrolyte capacitor polarities as i'm new to circuits
Well done mate!
Really nice brother.... Thanks you!
Nice project, thanks for making it available.
Can you please list the items you used. Like what op amp did you use??
Great design. I made one for my new 6 string bass
How does it sound?
@@davidhurrell9930 It sounds great. I raised the film caps at the front so the 30Hz can get through. I stopped using batteries years ago and use a homemade phantom power box so I can use any opamp I want
I have done this preamp with wrong pot values for now as I am waiting for the correct parts. Overall it sounded great on my test jig.
Nice one. In this circuit you won't "harm" anything with the wrong pots. The centre frequencies may shift slightly, and the sweep of the pots may be a little uneven, so, yeah the 50k are optimal for the design. Best of luck with your project!
@@RobMods update on my build, the preamp sounded good, bass and treble has a wide range in boosting/cutting. I like it coz it made my TRBX305 sound alive, the bass guitar itself sounded too warm and dull. I replaced the 5 way switch of my bass to a 3 way switch and used it as a treble cap selector using the choices you've put up in the pdf. 😊👍
Came across your channel today. Love the content. I would really like to try it myself sometime in the future.
Thank you
Awesome
Cool build. But maybe if possible try to lower the treble control a little bit. I find that 7kHz is a little too high for it to do much of anything noticeable in a big mix and you’d almost never want to boost treble on a bass that high up in the spectrum
Remember, 7khz is just the peak of a fairly gentle slope. But there's a bit more info in the PDF on my website that gives more cap selections for different centre frequencies. It really depends on the pickups. For a stingray pickup wired in parallel, it will have a typical resonant peak of 9-10khz. But a passive P pickup, loaded by the vol and tone pots may roll of as low as 2khz!.. That's the great thing about making your own, you can tweak it to really suit your bass and rig. Thanks for watching my content mate!
Man srly thanks a lot for share your work, i just bought a pair of MC33178 smd version, but i think i can work to make a PCB, just one question,how can i add a mid control?
hi!!! thanks for shareing this circuit, i´m going to build it, i´m plannig to install it in a cheap jazz bass copy.
Is ok to use the the input impedance of 100n and 1M for C1 and R2 if i´m going to use only the 2 band preamp, can i use it with the passive circuit?
Hi Juan yep, this values will be fine.
@@RobMods thanks a lot!!!
@@JuanMotta No problem mate. Good luck with the build!!
@@RobMods hi, i have a question, i installed the active circuit after the passive circuit, and works well but the problem i have is that i have much less volume from the bass i don't know what the problem is.
I have used a 105 250v cap insted of 25v For the c2 because it was the only cap that did not send to me when i ordered and i found this For replacement, i don't know if this is the problem.
dear sir i want to add middle control...how can I make it...? plz help me...
Can I use 100v capacitor for C1-5 sir? Planning to make this for my bass
Yes no problem, as long as they fit on the board.
@@RobMods thank you sir rob, gonna try this. I'm excited to make it for my own custom bass I made. By the way, I use metal film for Nanofards, monolitic and ceramic for the uf and pf. Hope it was fine.
Qual o nome do software de osciloscópio você está usando?
Hi. I have passive pickups and the treble cut makes noise, it is like static noise when my fingers touch the strings. can it be solved ?. regards
Rob please, help me. Where can I find formulas to calculate the Baxandall filters. Also something to study. thank you
12:28 sir may i know ? what is the blue stuff name ?? because im so curious
Hi. It's called heatshrink tubing. Cheers!
Rob, what really changes and makes differents in the bass guitar sound, is it pickups or pre-amp !? I have Cirrus bass that feels so good but it sounds, somewhat, "sterile" (plane) so if I wont to make some modification, what would really make difference in sound?
Thanks for watching. If you enjoyed this video, and especially if you've made this project, please consider donating to my channel via the "THANKS" button. It really helps me create more videos. Cheers! Rob.
what about a 3 band preamp with bass mid and treble? how would you do that ?
Well, you can have a 3-band Baxandall filter around a single opamp. The classic 3-band Stingray preamp is like this. (And there's lots of other examples.) But the mid control is a little underwhelming IMHO. Very low Q factor and not much cut and boost. A much better option is to have another separate opamp stage for the mid control. In the future I may do a standalone mid control that can be added to this or the other (fender tonestack) preamp I've shown on the channel.
Thankyou for sharing this.
Can u please explain the rg1 and rg2 use i did't understand that please
Hi Muhammed. There's some info about this in the PDF on my website. The combination of these two resistors control the amount of voltage gain the opamp produces. For a circuit like this, in non-inverting mode, with (RG1 as the feedback resistor and RG2 as the resistor that goes to virtual earth), the voltage gain is calculated like this: (RG1 + RG2) / RG2. For example, if both resistors are 10k the gain is 2. This equates to 6dB. Thanks for watching my videos!
@@RobMods Thank you Rob. Can you please send your email id or whatsapp num
How to add mid controller in this circuit
it's not working for me..i don't know why.. i make more than 30 clone pedals and never fail😢 i use tl072 ic..i check every part and soldering... i possible to get the multimeter numbers of this schematic? thank you 🙏
I'm afraid it's almost impossible to know what might be wrong with yours. Make sure the Vref is 1/2 your Vcc voltage. (IOW, battery voltage minus the diode's drop.) And pins 1,2,3,5,6,7 should all be at the Vref. The tone stack should be at the Vref as well - pots, resistors etc. The input and output should be at earth, IOW, 0V. I assume you used magnification to check the soldering. I've been held up with the tiniest hair of solder bridging stripboard tracks in the past. I couldn't see with my naked eye. Also, did you try testing the current draw? If the chip is dead, the current consumption won't change with your 072 removed. If everything else checks out, then perhaps try an audio probe. Did you test it before installing in your bass? Perhaps there's a problem around it, like a bad jack in the bass. Remember, its ring connector turns on the preamp. Gosh, there's so many other things I could suggest. Even a simple little project like this can be a head scratching experience. But I'm sure you'll learn something either way. Best of luck!
@@RobMods ok...fail the IC... I found it unbelievable that this TL072 was the problem because it was brand new... and the last check before I threw it..i hit the right spot.
@@RobMods thank you!! sound great!!
@@nikoszisidisgrmstudio Yes, in the last few years I've had a few ICs that were dead on arrival. Frustrating in this day and age. That's why the socket is a good idea. Glad you got it worked out mate!
@@RobMods I noticed that it doesn't have much boost the volume... but the filters work fine.. i test it external on stingray style passive humbucker ..and if i hit strong the strings slight distortion will be heard.
sory sir.....its working....and thankyou so much.....
Thank you. Can you help with midrange l need it for my own project Berocca
Nice!!!
Thanks mate.
Hi, I have a Stagg stand-up bass, the pre amp is shot, do you think this would work? great vid BTW
Thanks mate. Yes, this will work well.
BTW, I have an EUB too. It's great, but I'm planning to design a new preamp for it at some stage.
@@RobMods please can I get a 3band EQ schematic
Thanks for sharing this project, sounds very interesting - is there a way to add some overdrive?
Overdrive is a very simple thing. You would need to wire two diods to ground and voilà.
Hi i need some help
Hello, The impedance of the pickup set made any difference in how this preamp works? for example if the impedance on the pickups is low, is there anything to modify in the circuit? Nice project!!
If you run the pickup straight into the preamp and have your volume pot on the output, then yes I'd reduce the input z of the pre and also think about a capacitive load for the pickups to make them sound more natural. If you have a pot or two (volume, blend etc) between the pickup(s) and preamp, then there's no need to do this. It's the direct load on the pickups that effect their resonance. I talk about this in Project Berocca Parts 8 and 9. Plus in a few other videos. I'm glad you like my channel!
What would you need for a mid control?
Hi rob do you think this project is worth to try for a beginner like me who new to soldering ?
@@kennmossman8701 why? Could you explain why it’s not worthy?
@@kennmossman8701 so no explanation huh? Or you died already.?
Potensio for boss metal zone?
Great job. Greetings
can this work on pasive bass?
Yes, but you'll have to work out a place to put the battery. If its a typical three-pot control layout, you will have to work out how to add the extra control.
Does the circuit is suitable for in car bass/trebel control?
I don't see why not. It will be fine for 12-14V (car battery) operation. Since you would be using a low Z line source, I would make the input impedance lower for best noise performance. IOW, lower the input resistor and raise the coupling cap proportionately. You may also want to raise the treble control to say 10-12khz and lower the bass control to say 30hz for hi-fi type operation (depending on your speakers of course). Thanks for watching my channel!...
Please send me a link download schematic
@@giorgitushmalovi3403 Hi mate. Thanks for watching my video! robkiddhomepage.wixsite.com/robkiddmusic/project-berocca
this material is really appreciated and i know beggers can't be choosers buuut.... why wasn't a bill of materials included? now i have to scan the schematic and write it out myself.
if im up to it, i might edit this comment to include the BoM. and i understand some of the values and components depend on user.
but really a simple bom to start the document wouldve been fantastic
You make a good point. It is such a small circuit, and I usually have all these parts on hand, I really didn't think about it TBH. But if you post one here, I'll pin it for sure. Cheers.
@@RobMods thanks Rob Mods. I'll do that when I get home from work then.
@@RobModsit is finished. I wrote it two different ways but it should be easy to read and understand. Im happy to change any formatting if you like.
@@RobModsagain, this is very much appreciated. I have a VM Jaguar that I've been using as a project Bass. first it was adding a passive active switch. then it was changing it to like a Bass VI or a jaguar, w/ a strangle switch. Then the Bass Boost circuit stopped working and I never liked it anyway.
Im using this circuit to bring the VM's 4 hole control plate closer to the capabilities of the original 2006 MIJ Jaguar Bass. stacked B/T pot, push pull tone pot for on-off active circuit, and push pull volume for S/P switch.
Then either VVT or VT with a big 3 way pickup selector. leaning toward the latter, but id like to hear what anybody thinks.
So i have a question .. Its kind of hard to find 1uf non-polarized caps .. While maintaining everything else what can i use in its place ? (C2)
I use monolithic 1uF caps. I buy them from Jaycar, right over the counter here in Australia. You can also get MKT caps in 1uF, but they are pretty big. That's why I left plenty of room for C2 on the stripboard layout. You could simply leave it out and replace it with a short, but if you like to crank the bass control and slap a lot, be careful of your speakers. You may want to use a smaller C1 to tighten the sub frequencies a little. Cheers!
@@RobMods Thank you very much man!
Hi. Does anyone know if this preamp would work with a one pickup bass like a music man? Obviously I wouldn't need the blend knob. I would imagine that since the blend is just making both pickups go to one out it should work without as it's only one pickup?
Yep this will work with a single pickup. For a stingray set up, with the volume pot on the output and the pickup going directly into the preamp, I'd recommend using fairly low input impedance (around 100k) otherwise the (parallel coil) stingray pickup will sound very hi-fi and strange. Thanks for watching!
@@RobMods Thanks so much. I don't suppose you have a circuit diagram of that by any chance?
@@RobMods Thanks
I don't suppose you have a circuit diagram at all for that?
I am not sure where to put the volume pot as I want a push pull one.
@@jblazeby Is the push-pull switch a preamp bypass? If that's the case it should be an A250K or A100k between the pickup and the pre. Just follow the diagram from the PDF on my site. Ignore the blend control and run the hot wire from your pickup to the clockwise lug of the volume pot. (Where the light blue wire goes.)
@@RobMods Sure thanks.
I was using just the preamp without the active blend control.
I think that was 250k.
Do you have 3 band?
What clay is that you use
hello, i am going to build this great preamp. but it's hard for me to find B50K concentric pots.is it okay if i use 100K concentric pots? i'm going to use concentric pots because my bass just have 3 pots hole and do not want to do some wood work e.g drilling new holes
I've got the same problem here. Just managed to get B500k pots, and that's a big leap. Can someone help me with this? Thanks!
100k will work OK, but the sweep of the pot will be a bit abrupt, and you'll also have more cut and boost, also the frequency centres will be a little off. I'd recommend 50K for sure. Try ebay and ali express. Also try Aguilar, Bartolini, Ernie Ball, Dark Glass, etc. They all use B50K pots in their preamps.
Hi mate! Thanks for the videos - they are awesome!
I am trying to make this pre-amp myself but I am struggling to find here is Oz B50k pots which are long enough to go through my bass top. May I ask what shop you got yours from please? Cheers!
I've never seen B50K long-thread pots available from any Aussie guitar parts places. I buy mine from overseas. Sometimes the regular Jaycar Alpha brand pots will go through without any washers on the inside. If I use them like this, I drill a small shallow hole for the anti-rotation lug. Mark the drill with tape so you don't go right through!
@@RobMods Hey mate, I tried to switch the lm358 for a lme49720/lm4562 but somehow the sound is very thin and distorted. I am not an expert in electronics but I wanted to change the lm358 for a higher quality op amp. Would you know how to use the lme49720 or maybe would you know of a high quality op amp I could use. Thanks heaps. PS: I re-watched the whole series on project Berocca, it was great! thanks for the content!
@@RobMods I've been planning to replace the preamp of my TRBX305 and can't find a B50k pot until now, they are very common pots for pedals but they have shorter bushing/threads. I'm even planning to do the darkglass tone capsule and I've found your post in talkbass and your also from Aus. I thought I'm the only one struggling with B50k for guitar pots mounted to the body.
What is the wattage of the resistors and the capacitors voltage.. Thanks a lot, hope to hear from you soon..
And also the layout of the pcb if possible😀😀😀 thanks a lot.
Check out the PDF on my website. robkiddhomepage.wixsite.com/robkiddmusic/project-berocca
@Rob Mods is 1/4 watts for the resitor would be fine?. And 25v for the caps also?. I'm new to this, and you forgot to add the values of caps and resistors in pdf, so im confused on how many watts for the resistors and how many volts for caps.. Can I also ask for a pcb layout for this?. Thanks man, this can help a lot for me.
@@tatangmo7853 No probs. Yes, 1/4 or 1/2 watt metal film resistors, and the electrolytic caps should be 25v. There's no PCB layout at this stage, but the stripboard layout is very small and very easy to make.
Is it okay if I install it on my Electric Guitar?
You can adjust the frequency centers with the capacitors
Awesomeness
Forgot to say it has piezo pickups
In that case, use an op amp IC with fet input transistors, like a TL072 for example, and set the input impedance very high. Something around 5 - 10 megohms.
Rob, I've been wanting to purchase a $40 wireless set for the guitar, and open it up place the chipboard on the back of the backplate, maybe add an extra antenna stolen from a wifi PC card and install it near the strap button. Either way, it has to be too easy to turn a guitar into a wireless guitar all built in and ran to a 9V battery or rechargable battery. Could you please do this for me, or I will get it to it soon enough.
👏👏👏
Hi sir rob, i tried to make a copy of your design and tried to make a pcb design, I somehow manage to create it but I dont know why it doesnt produce a sound, its a complete silent 😅, if you dont mind, can you check my design? I'll send it to you if you want
drive.google.com/file/d/1mNObM-Gujs6FjI54uHkjEtYmnBGLVYc-/view?usp=drivesdk
I really want to know more about making guitar pedal and more can I add you on social media Facebook or Instagram I really want to know more hope you'll help me
I've been on holidays, but my next video will likely be a pedal build. A simple beginner delay pedal built with a PT2399 module. FB/robkiddmusicofficial, insta/rob.mods Glad you like my videos. Cheers Shane!
@@RobMods thankyou man i'll directly pm to you right now
Every time I see an electronic schematic, I feel so stupid. I can't read what the whole world is build with.
RUclips some videos on CAD and understand the basics of CAD. Electrical circuits all go point A to point B you just need to know how you want to manipulate each circuit before it gets to B.
It is a lot more simpler than it looks. It's just a bit overwhelming at first but nothing more difficult than learning guitar.
Hello Rob, I’m thinking if it’s possible to install two onboard preamps , each witch his own 9v battery each one bringing separate bass and treble , and one blend pot for the out put
I'm not realy sure I'd need two preamps on any of my basses, but if you want to give it a shot, go for it! Even if it doesn't work out, you'll learn from it, and who knows, it might be great for your style of playing. I would say, though, there's no reason to use separate batteries. Just hook both circuits up to the same one. Best of luck with your project!