Electrical Fire Prevention 101: Wiring Your Outlets the Right Way
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- Опубликовано: 20 авг 2023
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If you are like the 62% of my audience who feel comfortable doing DIY electrical but don't feel they are a pro this video will be a great foundation or refresher. We will focus on a standard residential-grade outlet and the 4 most common wiring mistakes DIY homeowners make when wiring an outlet. Some of these mistakes you will even find in newly built "professionally" built homes.
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Hey, Scott, hope you see this. I have been able to fix the bottom seel on our backdoor, but I can't seem to fix the top seel. I've tried going the route of readjusting the hinges, but I still have a visible gap.
Do you have any recommendations on moving forward?
Wow. You're much calmer and more effective than my dad was trying to explain this to me 40 years ago.
I just remember Jed Clampett. Black gold, Texas tea. So black on gold and white on silver.
This is so important, esp. as we seek to save money by doing simple jobs if we can. Many thanks.
Amen!
The best teacher! Straight, good information! Well done!
Thanks for the kind words 👍
I really don't know why I watch these videos. I have been a journeyman union electrician for 25 yrs. Residential , commercial and industrial. I do like seeing how other people do things. These are really good tips for the average homeowner though. I have no idea why the manufacturers still put the quick wire stabs on the back of devices. They cause nothing but problems! There are so many different ways to skin a cat. I really do like using the ECX drivers. I just started using them recently. I hate the Robertson tip on the multi screwdrivers like me Klein 10-1, the bit always sticks in the screw and pulls out when you goto remove it. There have been times in when I was working in a panel and the tip has almost fallen across the bus. I have since learned to either tape the tip in my driver or get a dedicated Robertson driver.
Lol I’m the same way. I’ve been an electrician for about 20 years but was still curious to see the tips he had. I used to backstab when I did residential new construction and I loved it. Then I switched to doing service work and I never backstabbed a receptacle again once I saw all the problems that were caused by that. Great video with excellent tips.
What problems does backstabbings cause?
@@WalterMelons The connection is too loose and not secure. It was the leading cause of short circuits, fires, melted receptacles and unsafe conditions when attempting to pull the receptacle out of the box because they would just pop out and could either short on another wire or hit your hand and shock you. That was my experience.
@@BeugsTheLegend Good to know. I’ve always heard backstabbing outlets is a no no but never was told the why. I’m no certified electrician just a handyman.
Backstabbing also causes massive stress levels in the copper just on the edge of the hole.
I've been wiring for 25 years and I learned a few things. Thank you for the excellent video.
Thanks!
Always great to get back to basics. I also use a few layers of electrical around GFCI outlets.
Going to check every outlet in my house...BRB!
Thanks...excellent video as always! I would just add that it is recommended to torque the screws using a torque screw driver. Studies have shown that even experienced electricians often are not able to torque the connections properly by feel. Also, many comments here mention wrapping with electrical tape. From what I understand, this is not advised, as tape can trap heat & moisture, interfere with air flow, and tape adhesive may release gases, trap dust, bugs, etc., & leaves a sticky mess for the next person working in the box.
Valuable information. I know you mentioned before that you rapes an electric tape around the screws so they would not touch the box if it was metal. Thank you for sharing
Great points & descriptions. Nice job. Several takeaways for me - thank you.
Thanks for the support 👍
Very good tips
Thanks, this video was very helpful!
I don’t normally do electrical work in my home, but this was a good instruction video that should help people. I think I would remember these points.
i enjoy your videos and I to friends in Phoenix. Keep up the awesome videos !!
Thanks very helpful information 😁
Great video! 💯😎
Awesome thank you
You bet!
Great intro to outlets n wiring.
Thanks! 👍
Great video
Really good.
Thank You
Good advice 👍 Thanks
You bet!
Well Done
Two things: 1. What's your theory behind "speed wiring" being bad (because there's a spring loaded clamp holding the wire) but WAGO spring loaded connectors being good? Don't get me wrong- I agree with you, but it seems to me they are very similar in design: A push in connector that clamps the wire vs a spring loaded connector that clamps the wire....
#2. I'm not feelin the ECX bit. I tried it and it slips too. It must not be machined to a very close tolerance. So what I've been using is just a flat blade that's big enough (but not too big) to fit all the way across the screw head, and fat enough to fill the slot. The leverage that the wide blade gets on the screw head is far more than the square drive or phillips.
Re #1: Had the same question, but I just googled it. Looks like lever lock Wago connections are more robust than speed wire.
Wrap the Wago with tape, I agree with your point. NEVER, EVER use the speed slot in the back of an outlet.
Never!!! I've seen them fall out. In a plastic box, luckily.
#1 - The short answer is, there is not a lot of contact area on those back stabbed connectors. They dig into the wire so they feel strong, but crack one open and there isn't much meat for the electrons to flow through. Poor connections=heat expansion=cold contraction=hardened metal in a new shape.. Wagos have less metal-on-metal contact than J-hooks Scott's got videos comparing the pullout force for wagos (locked down vs. loose) and I think he's done a similar check with back stabs on the receptacle. J-hooks make good contact and so do outlets that support the side/back stab method that you can manually tighten down. He's also done a video on the comparative forces of Wagos and knock-offs--one was better than the Wagos, I think. Have to check the video backlog, but the vid should be less than a year old.
#2 ECX #1 and #2 are an attempt to solve the issues that the existing fastener. Milwaukee's approach assumes the slotted part of the fastener is deeper than the philips, but you know that's not the case. There is a similar driver/bit made by Klein (combo #1, #2) that have the square and straight bit flush on the bottom for more contact area. Lastly, you don't have to buy new drivers to use these bits. They are all a standard 1/4" bit that will work with magnetic bits, but Milwaukee's version comes with that narrow shank you see on impact driver-related bits. It all boils down to what you prefer.
Hi, Scott. Could you do a video about which sizes (or gauges?) of wire should be used for whichever application?
Could you do a video of a 14/3 wire setup with red and black wires connecting to a receptacle? I still haven't found a video yet to show how to connect two sets of 14/3 wires to a receptacle. The receptacle in my apartments has two sets of 14/3 wires connecting to a receptacle that must be ancient because no one sells it. It has two speed wire holes on each corner. I've just learned that 14 gauge going into speed wire holes so it's a 14/3 wire. The receptacle doesn't work and apartments aren't in a rush to fix it.
I would love to see a video testing Wago 2773 push connectors (not to be confused with the 2273 connectors). I would like to see a resistance/durability testing compared to Wago 221s, along with a benefit to value analysis. The 2773 are less expensive and smaller than the 221s, and it looks like you have more size options as well. (2,3, & 5 ports for the 221, but 2,3,4,5,6, & 8 for the 2773s.) Maybe they are better for more busy boxes?
Do you have a video on how to make the bottom or top outlet switchable with a dimmer switch. I'm having trouble installing a smart dimmer switch to an outlet. Behind the smart dimmer switch has two black wires three white wires one red and one ground
It often surprises me that people would take shortcuts when dealing with electricity. Out of all of the systems we have in our homes, the electrical is by far the most dangerous, with maybe gas being the exception. I think it's because we've used it for so long that we tend to treat it with complacency. I have a house that was built in 1980, and we intend to update all the systems to modern materials, and techniques. We have at least 3 outlets that need to be replaced because GFCI wasn't available when the house was built.
I would like to see a holding and load capacity comparison between Wago connectors and speed wiring
I'm so glad I bought that ECX driver. It sure does the job with no slippage..
An electrician I know used to complete the job by wrapping a length of electrical tape around the receptacle, to cover the terminal screws.
I have never done that, nor have I seen it done. Ever.
I occasionally will wrap some tape around a wire nut in a light fixture, belts and suspenders.
Ty
You bet!
My dad used to demand we wrap the plug with electrical tape over the screws regardless if the box was plastic or metal.
Does nicking the copper matter as long as it's not crazy excessive? I find I always nick it up a bit when making loops/hooks
Three way switch installation is my suggestion
Cool - I learned about the tabs.. had no idea. btw, what about wrapping the terminals with electrical tape? Is that a bad idea?
I was going to ask the same thing. I pretty much always do that personally ...
Ya. But, when that tab is removed don’t you have an additional Romex cable entering the box running to it in order to power the second of the duplex receptacles?
I never tape them. Do you expect the outlet to move around in the bo x???
I have a 3-way switch on opposite sides of a room. Just below one of the switches is a box with nothing in it. I would like to make the box below a regular outlet. Is it possible to do that maintaining continual power to it?
When I tried it, it only worked when the switch above was in a certain position.
Thanks.
With you being the world's #1 Wago Fan Boi, I'm surprised you didn't somehow incorporate a couple of Wago's in there!! You're slipping! Do better!! 😊
You should see my WAGO tattoo 😂.
I avoid wago connector unless absolutely necessary like if the wires a just to short to twist. I’m not sure why you’d recommend them since they work exactly the same a the “speed wire” connector on the outlet which you described as a failure point. I don’t like them because 1) they don’t have a wire release so when you pull a wire out that connection hole is damaged and should not be reused. 2) if you need to connect three or four wires together the wago actually takes up way more space than a wire nut and in a two gang (or more) switch box there are at least three groups of three so wagos are more bukly. 3) if my customer decides to add a device like a ceiling fan or an additional light or something the wagos can’t be reused and in case you haven’t noticed they’re pretty crazy expensive compared to wire nuts. 4) wires properly twisted have a zero percent chance of failure whereas wagos (being a manufactured product made by the millions) have a percentage of manufacturing defects and even a wago without defects is not nearly as reliable. Furthermore it’s nearly impossible to spot a bad connection in a wago with the naked eye. Troubleshooting a house full of wagos would be a nightmare and let’s face it most homeowners end up calling an electrician at some point after the DIY project because something’s always not quite right afterwards. But what do I know I’m just a knuckle dragging electrician who takes calls from homeowners every day. Haha. I’ll be hearing from you.
Great video! Does it matter if ground hole is oriented up or down?
You will hear a lot of different opinions on that one. In terms of the code either way works. Some commercial properties like hospitals will call out on the building specification that the ground face up which does have a slight safety advantage over ground down. The majority of people like ground down probably because that is what they have seen the majority of their life. I like ground down.
You failed to mention how important it is to not attach a black to one screw and a red to the other if the jumper has not been removed. Course it is a great way to have your own fireworks show.
Hmm. I'm not sure that's what you would get. Typically, if there are two hot wires they are from the same circuit and the bottom is just on a switch and the top is not. If that's the config and you don't remove the tab, I believe what you'd get is that the switch not work to turn OFF the bottom receptacle. It would always be live like the top.
@@joe3276865536 No joe. When you insert a circuit breaker in a pannel. 1 leg is from one side of the transformer and the other leg the other. Between them you get around 220 Volts. A 220 Volt short makes a large spark. By the sounds of it, you should definetly stay out of your pannel as youi will probably kill yourself or burn down your home. If you don't understand the phasing of the supply to your home, or how split circuits work, your going to get hurt.
Have a situation at work where new work was done and the electrician used stranded wire instead of solid. what is the best way to work with this? One of the issues I have is in the outlet boxes, there is a "pigtail" coming off of the outlet screws.
Use a wire nur or Waggo. For the wire nut, lead the stranded a bit. Also, pul in the wires to kake sure they are tight in the wire nut. You can pre-twist the wires, or not when using a wire nut.
Hello. My name is Doug. I have hot water baseboard heat 6 rooms to heat. One room just will not heat even after bleeding it many many times. The baseboard is about 8 feet in long. I have actually taken it off the wall and took it outside to, if its blocked, and used a hose to clean it and that also failed. I know there is a, not sure what is actually called, that before it enters the baseboard splits the water sending water to the baseboard and also letting some of the water to continue on to the next baseboard. Would you offer your repair ideas?
What about the stab function that goes under the pressure plate? So you still have to screw it down. Thoughts?
Yeah that is “back wiring” usually only on commercial-grade and/or GFCI. I’m a fan 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs thanks. Does the ground get back wired also? It appears it can be but also seems not as stable as the line and load when done the same way.
@@juscallmericno. Use the terminal on the outlet.
EVERYDAY HOME REPAIRS< make a YT lesson about Ghost Voltages and how to prevent ghost voltages in wiring.
I need to make a pigtail foe a 15 amo or 20 amo wall outlet. What gauage wire is appropriate?
15 Amp = 14 gauge and 20 Amp = 12 gauge
Omg it's like going back in time 60 years compared to UK electrics
Great info ... Thx
For sure 👍
how about wrapping the terminals with insulation tape after tightening so as to make sure there are no contacts with anything
Not necessary. If your box is moving around while in a wall, you have a real problem. Poltergeist???
I have a 2 prong house (from the 60s and fuses - no breakers).
Do i have to use a GFI or can i use a regular 3 prong outlet.???
GFCI is acceptable if no ground is present.
GFI. Not cose to use 3 prongedcord
Some of these mistakes at most would result in a breaker being tripped. Speed wiring is the only point that i would advise against. If the j hook is too short or long it doesnt really matter. Especially in canada we use metal boxes for everything and wrapping electrical tape around the terminals does the job.
This guy must hate the new Wago connection on switches and outlets
What are you licensed in?
Should/can I use the lever-action commercial outline in my home?
The one from Hubbell? I am hoping Leviton expands their Edge produces as right now they only have residential-grade 15 Amp. For me I am still doing Legrand Commercial-grade.
Yeah, either Laviton or Hubbell. I've a lmap that flickers occasionally. I changed the bulb and then the lamp, but it's still flickering. My assumption is that there's a loose wire somewhere, so my next step is replacing the outlet. But this would be my first time doing electrician work on my home, and the levers seem more foolproof, lol.
Hi, how do you troubleshoot arc fault circuit in a home
Arc fault is typically from a loose connection. There is a point in the wiring where the current is spiking so fast, that the Arc Fault Current Interruption, which is typically magnetic I believe, is causing the breaker to trip so that there is not an explosive and destructive electrical arc. I would de-energize. Confirm absence of voltage. Beware of every neutral you come across as another circuit may be returning current via the neutral. Nothing quite like getting hung up on a neutral from another room and another circuit. I would not recommend it. Safest bet is to have everything de-energized. Or hire an electrician would be the best thing. All that being said. You most likely have a loose connection at either the breaker, one of the wire nuts in the branch circuit, one of the receptacles, outlet, luminaire, devices on that branch circuit. You can isolate the neutral(grounded conductor)and hot(ungrounded conductor) and test for continuity. Anything with a coil is going to ring 200 or more. You can go through the system at every joint and check the continuity of all the wires by jumping them to each other or the ground. If you have an intermittent reading it may lead you to the arc fault. There are expensive testing equipment that can help determine these things
. A good residential electrician would probably have this. I am assuming this is happening on one circuit?
My dad always wrapped some electrical tape around the outlet before placing it into the box. Is that ok or overkill?
It's good practice when the box is metal, but really not necessary, especially with plastic gang boxes.
When do you use a steel box over the plastic boxes?
I like steel boxes for junction boxes in basements and attics in addition to if I am doing conduit. For most residential I use plastic.
I was raised on steel boxes and I use them almost exclusively. You'll never strip out the screws on the cover plate
You briefly showed breaking the tab on the positive side, but did not mention any problem that might occur if not doing same to neutral tab !
The “K” is silent in Knipex.
👍👍👏👏
Outlet mfrs should make the conductor screws to have washers incorporated.
GFI sometimes do.
Looks like Eaton did away with the built in wire strippers
Why don't you have the ground / earth wire in sheath then it will be safer as is in Ireland 🇮🇪
I've never had a problem "camming" out using a phillips driver. Sorry!
I wish they would be required to make those outlets up to commercial standards, of put them right out of business. It's just a poor design and especially when there are better ones that work in a better way. The sad thing is, it's greed that's holding everything back. They COULD do it, without increasing the cost, they just don't WANT to and that is exactly why they should go out of business if they don't.
The video is severely flawed. Speed connections are fine and not a common failure point. Also, the way you removed the wire by turning it back and forth and pulling was totally incorrect and ruins the connector. To properly remove the wire you would insert a small flat screwdriver into the slot just below the hole and push to unlock the speed wire connection and release the wire. Also your strippers do have a perfect place to bend the wires for what you called a j hook but it’s not in the jaws it’s the hole in the side. Also you didn’t complete the bends! Notice the little raised tabs next to the screw in the outlet. Those are there so you can pin the end of the hook against it and wrap the wire around the shaft of the screw and make your hook into a loop. You were correct about over stripping and the direction you wrap the wire around the screw.
The best way to avoid getting someone hurt or burning your house down is to hire a licensed electrician. DIY is not for electrical work. You may get something to work but it might not be wired to code
I would agree or just do extensive research. I'm a DIY homeowner and I do electrical work but always watch a million videos first and even look up code. Electrical stuff isn't a joke.
step 1 for wiring an outlet correctly: thats called a receptacle not an outlet
😂 surprised it took this many comments to get that called out.
so why should you not tape the outlet? lol
You seem way too pleasant to be a real electrician
You admitted in this video how “speed wiring” (or backstabbing) is a point of failure and you don’t recommend it. In a recent video, you recommend the new Decora Edge outlets and switches for how fast and easy they are-and it’s the same as “speed wiring!”
You’re contradicting yourself. I believe you’ll now see how passionate I am about educating the public about backstabbing. I’m a licensed electrician and doing this for 23 years. I’ve seen it first-hand…it causes fires! It should be outlawed and no longer manufactured. I commented on your Decora Edge video and you deleted it. Do you really welcome all commentary?
Rich P
Yep, I welcome all comments. We agree backstabbing is no good. I would not align on back stabbing and Decora Edge being the same. In the Decora Edge video we opened it up and you can see the difference in design which I like a lot more than standard speed wiring (back stabbing) design.
Decora Edge outlets have a pressure plate which actively creates a physical clamp force on the wires, rather just a few pointy parts which dig in to the wire for older backstabbed outlets.
@@stevekjr9563 It doesn’t matter. The wires are just as loose, including the larger #12 wires. The wires turn while inserted, and are easily pulled out with the clamps down.
@@electricaladvice5371 Whats the pull-force in the Decora Edge?
Homeowners should never wire anything themselves ever
This is a great video. This honestly isn't a complaint, I think all, accurate, home electrical information should be propagated. Haven't you basically posted this exact same kind of video like 5+ times already?
For sure, the RUclips audience is soooo large I am testing out repackaging some of the same content to help more homeowners. We will still have new stuff every week but a few will be repackaging common topics from the past. Thanks for the support and feedback. 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Thanks for not being upset! Your channel has seriously helped me a lot with doing home electrical repairs. I've installed multiple Leviton USB-C outlets and have been able to replace mutiple other outlets around our house becauce of your videos.
I encourage ALL feedback and appreciate your help 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Thanks, man. I'm the one that appreciates all your help.
Appreciate your transparency