I own a rv repair shop just north of Elkhart and my customers that run 30k+ miles a year with large full time fifth wheels all use LT Firestone HTs because of blowout damages caused by ST tires. I can't speak to whats better or worse but in 40yrs and lots and lots of blow out repairs not one had LTs on it. Alot of higher end trailer manufacturers now offer LT tires as a option
Very good video. I retired from the tire manufacturing and our primary product was specialty tires. You are spot on. I have needed to explain the difference may times while on vacation throughout the years. Something you may not know is that the compound for trailer tires has ingredients that help resist uv rays but till cover them when parked. Know your axle rating and match the tires.
Fate Unbound Alli’s cousin recommended these gladiator tires. You can get up to like 10ply if you have 15in rims. We only have 14’s so 8 ply was the most they make in that size. Still such an upgrade.
@@AlliChuckAdventures Just about everyone has told me to replace my trailer tires with LT tires. The ones you have sound a lot better. Or the Goodyear Endurance. I've already had one blowout with my cheap C rated tires.
Hi David, one thing to clarify. ST tire speed ratings are not the same for all ST tires. Our tires have a speed rating of 81 mph. Suggest users look up their specific tires based upon the codes on the tires. Great video, loved it.
Well said. I seen a set of Maxxis ST tires Q speed rated (99 mph). I opted for a set of Carlisle Radial Trail HD ST tires rated for 81 mph. Fast enough for me! 😁
I also use a laser thermometer to measure the hub and tires to see if a tire is getting hot for some reason, such as a bearing going out, low air pressure or a bent axle. Just another way to extend tire life and be safe.
OMG how do you explain trucks with heavy loads all the time! I think you've read the simple guidelines and re-read them. Not sure, but i think I'd trust grandpa's advice.
Very well thought out presentation. A small factor some are not aware of also: One rating up is good for temp, speed, and ply. However, up-rating too much will cause trailer bounce which leads to excessive torques to the axles and hitch. It can also contribute to over-flex'g the framing of the trailer.
David great job on the tire video. You have a much better understanding on tires than you give yourself credit for. You are correct excessive heat is one of the major reasons for tire failure due to over weight and low PSI. Retired now after 33 years in the tire business the number one reason for tire blow out and failure is road hazard. Ugh... those pesky nails. Love the channel!
Awesome information in this video. Only piece I'd mention is not all ST tires are 65mph rated. Some are rated (in sidewall) for 70, 75, 80 and even (crazy enough) 90 mph! Just picked up a set of Carlisle Radial Trail HD tires today rated for 80 mph.
Did this same thing last year. In an attempt to be rational about which tires to buy I did a little research regarding how tires are rated according to DOT spec.s. And looked at reviews. Seemed like a better approach than asking Uncle Joe what he thinks. I went from load range C ST tires to road range D ST tires. And went up a little in terms of speed rating. Finding the right tires seems complicated. Many people like to talk about Chinese Bombs and other subjective criteria. Demonstrating a preference for US made tires. Yet to my knowledge there are only 2 "US Brands" of tires; Cooper and Goodyear. And there are many Chinese owners tire manufacturing facilities located in the US. So what's a US made tire? Does it matter? I'm just glad there are established ratings and at least supposedly those ratings are enforced by the US in order to protect consumers (and I believe that if they're funded they will do so). MY uncle Joe is a BS'er and you can't believe a word he says.
a fourth reason for blowouts, and perhaps less common is not towing a level trailer. I have seen rigs going down the road too high in the front or rear and this overloads one of the axles and overheats the tires
The load range / axle ratings is the bigger consideration to me. Every tire problem I have witnessed, or heard of directly from the affected user, have always been situations where the trailer axles / tires where running at full load. Many low-end tow behind RV's have running gear barely capable handling the load and not much cargo carrying capacity in the unit.
Nice video. I believe that filling tires to the max pressure listed on the sidewall will cause them to flex less when hitting a pothole or other road hazard making them more likely to blowout. My trailer lists recommended pressure. I also will emphasize the stronger bead on the ST tires. On my gooseneck horse trailer the tandem axles are near the rear of the trailer and the tires will really flex outward when backing into a spot at very low speed to the point they look like they may pop off but never have.
Excellent information and well presented. I glanced through most of the comments before I commented and noticed something that is ALWAYS missed. Pay attention to your SPARE TIRE. No one ever checks the condition and/or pressure of their spare tire. How old is it? When was the last time you removed that pretty (but outdated) tire cover and actually inspected the trailer spare? I had one once that had dang near rubbed a hole in the side wall. Also had a spare trailer tire that just exploded on the back of the trailer one day while I was taking a nap. Not a bad idea to check the truck spare also, they experience rubbing also.
Spot on about the spare. I didn't think to check mine until after I got it home after purchase (used trailer). The spare has a plug in it! I always think the back up of anything should be in better condition then the primary. It's the only thing keeping you from becoming a pedestrian
You hit it right on the head. I did so much research before my trip to Alaska last summer. Every thing that I learned about tires after visiting so many different web sites, you put it all into an 8:51 min video. Removed my fith wheel ST, D rated, max 65 mph, and installed Goodyear Endurance ST, E rated. Max 85 mph. Had the truck and trailer weighed, purchased the eezRV TPMS, replaced the truck tires and spare. Monitored the tire temp/pres info thought out the entire trip. Inspected tires on truck and trailer daily. Some of the roads in Alaska were really bad. Had zero issues there and back. 11750 miles. Tires look good and if worn, it wasn't enough to notice. It feels good that we think the same way about tires or your thinking like an old guy.
I don't know why, but people seem to always cheap out when buying tires. Not just for their trailers but for everything they drive as well. All of our trailers get new high quality ST tires every 4yrs, regardless of tread depth or mileage. I have found that 4yrs seems to be the magic number and the chance of having a blowout increases dramatically after that. I also install a size taller when possible and at least one load range higher. After 15yrs and thousands of miles of tandem towing the boat behind the 5th wheel, we have had only 1 blowout. It was my fault, the tires were 4yrs and 5 months old 😄
Agreed, I never knew why someone would spend 20K-80K on a trailer then buy garbage $90 tires. Just asking for trouble. I like your thinking on the every 4 years idea. Makes alot of sense.
That makes a lot of sense, many years ago when I started driving my father gave me a piece of advice I have followed, buy 5 year batteries and replace every 3 years, it isn't much money and I have never been stranded because of a bad battery, when a dome light was left on accidentally overnight it still had enough charge to start the truck and when headlights were left on it was still able to take a jump charge and not lose capacity.
Cat scale there are two apps for that. The first one is called CAT scale. This one will give you the location of a cat scale. The second app is called weigh my truck. This allows you to pay for the scale from your phone. Because I know a lot of you may not be tall enough to reach that button, to call the weight master.
Humm, I do not believe ST tires have a stiffer sidewall because I saw how flimsy my original tires were. Also alot of ST tires weigh less than many LT tires.
WOW, WOW WOW , Just found you guys on the weekend and as I am healing from a minor operation, I binge watched your journeys... I'm 62, and just wanted to say what an inspiration you youngsters are. Your honesty, zest for life, and frank asessments to stuff, and locations, as well as caring for each other and your pet baby's. Just wanted to reach out and say thanks again, I'm a fan. Oh, I love the Rottie, and the Cats. Not so much the wabbits. Long may your journey be.
A fourth cause of heat to the tire blowout problem (most overlooked especially by boaters) is wheel bearings. The grease dries out and becomes useless. This is problematic for boat trailers because they are subject to being submerged in water regularly and is why a lot have a zerk fitting on the hub. I have my wheel bearings repacked and seals changed at each tire replacement. Ever noticed that most of the trailer tire replacement on the side of the road are boat trailers?
Grease doesn't "dry out". There is no water in it to start with. It may leak out due to a faulty grease seal, or evaporate due to heat and a bad seal, but it simply cannot dry out..................
maybe, I guess, on the value of ST tire, in theory. But had 3 blowouts in my new 5th wheel in 1st trip...load range E ST's. granted it was middle of the summer with over 100 ambient temp in places. but i'm obsessive on checking tire pressure, and trailer was lightly loaded, although did have a full tank of water. However, these were no-name China bombs, so the tech theory was trumped by the poor manufacturing. In my area, the only USA-made tires found were Goodyear LT, so that's what I went with...no problems since.
Good job explaining a very misunderstood subject. Just want to throw in something we experienced with our 1st trailer which goes against one of the things you recommended. When we got our Aliner it was used and the tires on it were completely bald in the center but had original tread depth on the sides. I figured they'd just been overinflated. I inflated the new set of tires to the pressure stated on the sidewall, checked it regularly, and found that the exact same thing was happening. Had to replace those tires prematurely. The next set I reduced the pressure by 10% and had much more even tread wear. The moral of this story is that you need to inspect your tires for even wear and take action if it's uneven ( in any way). A TPMS system is a wonderful tool but visual inspections are still necessary. Thanks again for a lot of really enjoyable videos!
Good video. As you stated, 'age old argument LT vs ST…’ Having towed trailers for over 40+ years and a relative in the tire biz, I’ll stick with ST for the added sidewall strength. Most failures are due to the 3 items you mentioned but I’d add 1 and make it #1; "Chineese Poppers” or cheap tires. Get rid of them, spend a few bucks for good quality tires and move up a rating and you'll eliminate a majority of issues. It’ll cost you a lot more in the long run if you don’t. I’d also inflate my rear truck tires to the max rating on the side wall & front ones to about 80-90% of max per sidewall info and not what is on the door jam of the truck. Door jam PSI’s are fairly low and are for max comfort vs weight. Next subject: keep your bearing well greased !
I tried to find someone at a high-end local tire shop who believed the sidewall performance claims for ST tires. If anyone believed it, they weren't willing to admit it. As one pointed out, if you take the most famously expensive travel trailer brand (Airstream) and you order one upgraded to the best tires they offer, it will be delivered from the factory with LT tires.
This is inacurate, the best way to determine the inflation that your tires should be at is by weighing each axle of your tow vehicle while towing. When towing my trailer the front and rear axle of my truck were the exact same weight. You should then reach out to the tire manufacturer and ask what the recommended pressure is for that weight. I run all the same pressure in all the tires of my truck now. (Prior to weighing my truck I operated under your school of thought for tow vehicle tire pressure)
@@ReflectedMiles What Uncle Joe at the local high-end tire shop says may or may not be factual. How many of those people actually know a lot about tires? Some maybe. The fact they sell tires and put them on vehicles does not mean they're experts. If they have a high profit margin on an LT tire and a low profit margin on an ST tire which one do you think they're going to try to sell you? I think that may be particularly true of an RV manufacturer. These companies (corporations?) are in business to make a profit. Do you seriously not think an RV manufacturer will not cut corners to make a profit? A lot of the stuff put on the market is junk slapped together as quickly as possible. I think that in general you get what you pay for but I know from experience that is not always the case. Branding is a big part of it. Slapping a well known and respected brand on poorly made products may be more common than you think. Airstream? They're still stick built aren't they? Subject to leaks? Easy to damage aluminum? Actually heavy in comparison with better built more modern rigs? Old outdated technology with a big name and a big price tag?
Raven Feather My point was that, when there is any constraint on price and profit must be protected, ST tires are what get put on by both a legendary RV manufacturer and a tire shop that outfits the performance-vehicle and racing community. However, if you say to them, “Look, money’s no object-I just want the best tires you can put on my trailer,” suddenly both completely unrelated companies are staking customer satisfaction on LT tires. In fact, I would have to go back and check to be sure, but I think they are even the same brand-Michelin. I suspect they just use over-rating on the load capacity to get extra sidewall strength.I don’t have a single LT tire on the two trailers I own, but I am very tired of decades of ST failures leaving me stranded and these practices at the high-end combined with so many failures of different ST brands has led me to a different conclusion than standard industry claims and practices. There is probably no other industry as consistently shoddy and misrepresenting of the facts than that represented by the RVIA.They give “engineering” a whole new definition (“a sales manager with a CAD program”). That’s why they can look at you with a straight face and tell you that a piece of foil-faced bubble wrap has the same R-value as 12 inches of fiberglass insulation in your house attic (its actual value is approx. R-1 and it is illegal under federal law for the material’s manufacturers to claim otherwise). They just don’t care.
i just read in the owners manual of a 2019 honda, to replace the tires at ten years if they aren't worn out.( i had to read that a few times) i know it's not a trailer. but if they can make a car tire last 10 years, why not a trailer?
I’ve towed heavy cattle and flat bed trailers (12k-20k)....over the years have replaced all of the trailer tires with e rated lt tires.....lt tires are much better made.....grandma pa was right
I had a blow out last month on I95 in Florida on the way to Key West. Well over 100 degrees, not fun, I was lucky. No damage other than it dislodged the fender which I was able to repair when I got to Key West. My tires are 5 yrs old and I feel like I am on borrowed time. I am going to look into LT tires. Thanks!
Naturally .. The RV manufacturers install the bare minimum load range tires that appear to meet specs. For me, immediate tire change is first thing on To-Do list for new trailer. :)
@@tarotnessxx4014 ... Sniff, darn Flu bug. I never said anything about cheap tires. What I was referring to was the fact they will use a 'load range' that just meets specs. It could be the most expensive tire made ... but if load range just meets specs .. there's a good chance people might accidentally breach that range with their weight. I've seen new ones blow apart even though weight was in limits. If they just went one range higher, would be a big help in my opinion. If you got better tires on the Airstream, kudos to them. But, as you know, they're kinda in a class of their own. :)
trailer tires built for heat dissipation are destroyed when they get heated sounds good. use truck tires if they can handle a 8000lb truck think they can handle a 3000lb trailer
My 2018 Heartland North Trail 22FBS came with 205/75/14 C rated (50 psi max /65 mph max) china bombs. I immediately replaced them with 205/75/14 D rated (65 psi max / 87 mph max) Goodyear Endurance and we have not had any problems in the 1-1/2 years we have owned the trailer. I highly recommend the Goodyear Endurance tires.
@@thefartdart good point! They also probably aren't using LT tires on every single one of their travel trailers. Personally I think the engineers made the ST tire different from LT tires and these differences are why it's right and safer to always use ST tires for trailers. Thanks
After watching many of your upgrade videos I would like to ask the following: 1. Did you select your RV, specifically the price point, knowing you were going to do all of these upgrades? 2. Having to do it over would you have spent more to purchase an RV with your upgrades in place? 3. Do the pros in doing them yourself (you pick the equipment, better functionality & performance, you know it's installed right) out weigh the cons of voiding the warranty and incurring the additional costs? Lastly the bunnies need more screen time! Thx
I think you did a great job providing the FACTS about choosing tires for your rig. Quoting a recent broadcast I heard on The RV Show USA, from a retired tire engineer. He said exactly what you pointed out. “The main reasons you will have a blowout (other than a road hazard) are under inflated tires, load is too heavy, driving speed is too high and tires are too old (older than 5 years). All tires are manufactured to DOT standards and just because they are ST rated or manufactured in China doesn’t make them a bad tire”. I’ve put over 10,000 miles on my 2014, 32 foot, coachmen apex travel trailer with original factory tires and I have not had a blowout. I will be replacing my tires this year because they are 5 years old.
You are completely correct about causes of excess heat. Most people drive way too fast for the tires on the trailer. As an engineer, I can tell you that we like to run things at 75 to 80% of ratings. That means a speed rating of 65 should be towed at 55. (Do you see the signs along the highway that state such a maximum speed for towing? THAT is one reason for those signs)
Great comments. I have two friends that have a 42' and 43' fifth wheel trailer with toy hauler garages. They have both switch to a load range G w/ST tire and the pressure in them is recommended at 110 PSI however the tire dealer said the pressure should be at 100 PSI. He sells 80 to 90 sets a week of these bigger tires. These fifths are both triple axle due to the weight. One of my friends does not like to keep his speed down which we have told him if he has a blow out he will have a very hard time getting his 43' fifth under control to stop. He has already had one blow out that almost took the whole bottom of his fifth out. Maybe he will keep the speed down now.
New ST tires such as the GoodYear Endurance, Carlisle, and Maxxis have higher load ratings and speed ratings of over 80MPH. ST tire makers got the message and are now producing better products.
Load capacity? I pull an enclosed car trailer with a 12K capacity. It has 15” rims (unfortunately but not enough room to go to 16”) I had to go to LT because I couldn’t get a Trailer Tire with a Load range E rated for 3K or better. Hence I had to go to a LT that has a rating of 3,255. Great info, there a lot of fifth wheel and bumper pull trailers that are huge and should have 16” rims and don’t which is why they have such failure rate. I’m going to raise the trailer about 2” (not via an axle flip) so I can run 16” tires which will be almost 2.25” taller. A taller tire cuts way down on RPM (revolutions per mile) which cuts the heat build way down.
Great vid and very informative. I just bought a small travel trailer. The tires looked like they were in great shape. But they were mud terrain truck tires. On the drive home the treads peeled off one of the tires. The trailer came with a spare so I changed to the tire, When I got home I let the guy know one of the tires blew out, He apologized and said that the receipts for the tires should be in all the paperwork and to see if they were still under warranty. I found the receipts and the tires were 7 years old 😅 I have truck tires on my truck bed trailer, and on my utility trailer but I was interested to see if it would be possible to use truck tires for the travel trailer. After seeing your video I think I'm gonna go ahead and go with trailer tires.
LT tires come in different load ranges ... a load range E 10 ply rated is what's typically used on 3/4 and 1 ton trucks these intake to ... 80 psi... and are used for the 3/4 and 1ton to eliminate sidewall flex ... running the cheaper load rand D will cause sidewall fkrx on heavy loads . The sidewall tells the tale of load capacity and that capacity is only when at max inflation. My trailer tires are rated at... 75 mph...some are 81 mph ... not all are 65. Once again sidewall states load cap and at what inflation and speed rating... most blow puts are under inflated tires and old dry rotted rubber not the tire itself. I ran over loaded at 7800lbs on load range c tires never lost a tire and ran 56-75mph . I kept them aired up to just over 50 psi cold I also serviced my hubs yearly and...lol... even my 3500lb axles were bent mildly with negative camber. I now have 5200s and load range E tires with the same maintenance.
You are dealing with a relatively light trailer. My experience with a fifth wheel is that LT tires with steel belted sidewalls are best. Bridgestone Duravis or Michelin XPS rib have both served me well. Goodyear Wrangler ST caused me the most grief.
Where did it come from that ST tires have stiffer sidewalls? I switched my 5th wheel tires from ST to LT and the LTs seem to have much stiffer sidewalls.
I have 12 ply on my motor home which is probably over kill. However for the safety of my family I don't want to take any chances. Statics on RV fatalities show that the majority are tire related. I found that Les Schwab Tire Centers are extremely good for the RV'er. Tires, suspension, brakes, anything having to do with the under carriage of your RV they can help you with. I also like that they are nationwide.
I agree with you on the advantages of the ST tire over the LT. That was not as clear a few years ago but ST tires have improved a lot since then. The tires on both the trailer and truck should be inflated to manufacturers recommendation for the weight the tire is carrying, not to the max on the side wall. Over inflation may result in less tread contact on the ground that could impair handling and cause abnormal premature wear. Several years ago most all ST tires were speed rated to 65 mph. This is not the case with some of the new design premium ST tires. I believe the Carlisle Radial Trail HD is rated to 81 mph and the new Goodyear Endurance is rated at 87 mph. Even so, I would not tow that fast and would still stay at around 65 for safety reasons. You were wise to upgrade from a C to a D. I have a similar size trailer and the same Duramax truck in 4WD. The trailer originally had the same size C tire. I went even safer to an E rated tire with no regrets. It was slightly more expensive but tires are not a place to save money. I would also avoid going with less expensive off brand China tires. Three ST brands that seem to have a good rep are the Carlisle Radial Trail HD, the Goodyear Endurance and the Maxxis. An ST tire for the big 5th wheels is the Sailun. Many folks go with a high end LT tire for the big rigs but I favor the Sailun or the Endurance in the lighter big rigs. You recommended a tire pressure monitoring system in the video but did not say if you use one. I agree that it is an excellent idea and finally got off my duff and brought an EEZTIRE system from EEZRV Products last month at the Quartzsite big tent. My experience is limited, but so far so good. Looks like you have the BF Goodrich KO2 tire on your Duramax truck, upgraded one size. I am curious how many miles you have on them? We have the same generation 2007 Classic Duramax in the family and it only got about 24K of wear on the KO2. The weight kills them. They recently made changes to the rubber compound and now offer a mileage warranty. If yours has the warranty, then you have the new compound. The new version is not available in all sizes yet.
Bob .... What kind of truck do you have and which Michelin tire. My Duramax is the same as David's and Jenny's but with 4WD. The previous tires were stock size Michelin LTX M/S2. They had a warranty over 50K (either 60 or 70K) but were down to or near the wear bars at about 27K. Michelin ended up prorating them out for new tires. The tires were well maintained at the proper pressure, rotated and balanced regularly. Driving was easy. I was told the poor wear was due to the heavy truck with a heavy diesel engine, towing, driving in hot climates, and driving a lot on dirt back roads. They do well on lighter 1/2 trucks but not so well on the heavy diesel HD trucks.
Thanks for the additional information. That is great that you were able to get 80K mile with tires on a HD truck. The Michelin tire line in that style for my size is now called the Defender LTX M/S (50K) or A/T2 (60K) or Winter (40K). Their write-up for the A/T2 says 35% longer life on gravel so maybe it is back road driving that wore mine down so fast.
So if my ST Class C tires say I can drive 80MPH ( Which I would never) am I okay? I don't drive over 65 end of subject. My Class C rating is 50PSI, 1750LBS per axle. our Trailer is 4400 empty 6900 max cargo full. Knock on wood we've not had a problem with our Rig and we got sticker tires on it 2 years ago. Let me know what you think. Appreciate it very much!
Also note that for every 10F temperature change, there is a 1psi pressure change. So 35psi on a 32F morning in the mountains, becomes 42psi if you next stop is 85F someplace warmer. And vice versa. Expecting 40F temp change from locations? Right, check your tires!
I totally agree with your opinion to use ST tires with the right load rating. Back in September, 2017, the RVIA changed its tire recommendation for member manufacturers and they now recommend that manufacturers install tires with a load rating that will give a weight capacity (for the pair of tires) of at least 110% of the axle’s weight rating (GAWR). On my fifth wheel, they used to install a Load Range D tire but my new 2019 has Load Range E tires - still Castle Rock though. Having tires rated for 110% of the GAWR should be a minimum. Goodyear Endurance, Maxxis M8008 and Carlisle Radial Trail HD all have respectable reputations.
I have been using the Goodyear endurance on my toy hauler and Horse Trailer for a few years now due to my factory toy hauler tires bubbling. They have been great I have towed the toy hauler approximately 8000 miles with no issues they are great tires.
ST tires can and often are rated for speeds over 65 mph. A Goodyear Endurance tire is at 81mph with the proper rating..my Carlisle tires are 75mph rated ST tires. My Carlisle is a 205/75R-15 107M 8 ply tire. The M rating is for 75mph. I never tow over 65mph regardless of the trailer behind me. Getting there in one piece is always better than not.
You mentioned tire date, but, you did not elaborate. I have a 2018 Coachman, that had tires (ST185/80R13 D rated Kenda Loadstar) with a code date of 2015. I purchased the camper in 2019 as a "New" Inventory leftover. Never exceeded 60 mph, and tires were always at 65psi, but, yes, I had a blowout, causing damage to the camper sidewall. And, I was only going 40mph when the tire blew! The actual manufacture was the one that put tires that were already 3 years old on a NEW camper. While Forest River is paying for repairs, just be careful of the Date Code on the side of the tire. We, in the popup world call these tires on these campers "China Bombs" because all are made in China, and they usually blow off the tread when you least expect them too.
ST tires can have speed ratings other than 65 MPH. My Goodyear Endurance tires are N rated which is 87 MPH. I'd love to put LT tires on my camper but good luck finding a 14" diameter LT tire.
I just got Goodyear endurance 225/75r15 10ply and the maximum PSI is 80. I'm not sure I should put them at 80 my camper weighs 6000lbs. Each tire maximum =2800 lol my rims can only do 2200lbs and each axle is 3500 so perhaps I run the new tires at 65 or 70 to give it some cushion? Am I wrong for not running my tires at 80?
Tires are not the thing to go cheapo on. They're the only thing that touches the pavement. Endurance seem to be the way to go now. Glad to see more and more manufacturers are installing them at the factory. The next thing to improve tire life is to have them balanced, then a annual or ten thousand mile HAND inspection, clean, repack wheel bearings and seals (not E-Z Lube) Then consider upgrading your suspension with a leaf spring equalizer like a Cre3000 or Dexter E-Z Flex.....there are several different choices for suspension upgrades. Have your brakes checked. Travel day tire pressure checks, feel and visually check the tires, safe speed and you have done your best. On really hot days slow down some to allow for the extra heat build up.
LT D rated are available. I would consider them for off road use. STs won't hold up to rocks very well. There is every reason to use 8 ply d rated all terrain tires on a trailer. ST tires are weak. LT will also eliminate speed concerns.
Very good advice, especially 1. check air pressure and 2 replace tires after 5 years regardless of use. The elephant in the room was barely mentioned. Most RVs are cheaply built and the tires are cheap, poor quality and have barely sufficient load and/or speed ratings. They are called China bombs!! Before even the first trip, most RV tires should be replaced with better quality tires. Also be aware that the RV load ratings are often skimpy. Manufacturers not only skimp on the tires but often the axles and suspension components are insufficient or at best marginal.
Actually, I can tell you have never owned a 1 ton truck... look at E of F truck highway tires. Better than trailer tires. Many, many trailer manufacturers offer the LT tires as a upgrade on their higher end trailers. What does that tell you? Many have a 3ply sidewall and very little sidewall give. Not all LT tires are the same just like not all ST are the same. Some E rated tires are only for upto 3000lbs, others in another size are for over 4000lbs - all in the same brand and line tire. The tires I run are rated for over 4K lbs each and never buy anything less. Everyone I know have had issues with ST tires. We all have changed to LT and not had one issue. They also got rid of any sway. And yes, when I tow, I tow heavy. Much heavier than your travel trailer.
What about towing in deep winter? Seems like nobody makes studded or even winter-rated ST tires!? Towing a small (single axle) snowmobile trailer, loaded weight is only 900lbs with the sled - was going to run truck or even car tires because these are the only studded tires I could find. Any thoughts?
I hear you and this is the common knowledge talk; however, Many Many trailer owners have gone through the major trailer tire companies with poor results and posts on forums. Also, most trailer tires, regardless of brand, are made in China. If you keep digging for info, you find that some RV companies have upgrade tire packages that add LT tires to trailers! Also, Michelin has a load/PSI chart that recommends pressure to load ratios instead of maximum pressures. Metric rated tires are much stiffer and if set to 80 psi, it will shake your trailer apart. So, if you upgrade to the next letter the wheel and the camper have to be able to handle the pressure. I know my post goes against common knowledge statements but this is what I have found over the years.
It is possible to get st tires with higher speed ratings, speed ratings is the number one cause of tire blowouts on RVs. Often the LT has better weight, and speed ratings at a much lower price. I run st load rang G tires with a speed rating of 82mph but they are $310 each ×6.
I think most people go with cheap trailer tires because the rule of thumb is to change them out every 3 years, not 5. changing out good tires every 3 year is not cost effective. I can't tell you how many people I see passing me up on the interstate going 75+. Stay at 65 max and your tires will last. I had uneven wear on my trailer tires because my axle was bent. I had my axle re-aligned and my tires now wear evenly and I don't exceed 65. I also slow down to 45 with high wind. I slow down when Semi trucks are passing. I use the right truck for the job. Its not all about the tires, it is your driving habit. Stop every couple of hours and rest your tow vehicle. Everyone wants to make a 8 hour trip in 4 hours. I am sure everyone here has a trailer and I bet half of you on here are guilty for speeding causing dangerous conditions for the other half. I see it every time I am on the road.
Great video! One thing you did mention was upgrading from a load rating of "C" to a "D" rated tire to provide additional capacity. It should be noted that the rim max pressure should be accounted for as well. My 26' TT had 205/75R14's from the factory at 50 PSI. Moving to "D" rated tires requires increasing the PSI to 65 PSI to maintain the "D" rating, but the rim is rated to 50. Its usually stamped on the rim itself. Just a few thoughts when upgrading you tires. Thanks again for the video!
Wait, so what do you do in that instance? Is increasing to 65 psi not a good idea with the rim rating of 50 psi? Will I need to get a new rim for the new, higher load rated tire? I appreciate any info you could provide. Thanks
@@JetNation So right out of the gate if you put on a 65 psi rated tire on a 50 psi rim, you are exceeding the rim PSI by almost 30%. Also, if you drive in hot conditions, have a heavy trailer or at highway speeds, you could be increasing tire temp which adds to PSI on both tire and rim. My recommendation is to pair new higher rated tires with new rims at the same time. I was going to a D or E rated tire, but decided against it due to cost of replacing everything. I'm only a weekend warrior camper, so no biggie with my C rated 15" rims. If you have already mounted the 65 psi tires on a 50 psi rim, I doubt you will have tire issues, but you may be over spec on the rim. But dont lower tire pressure! That will absolutely destroy your tires and is unsafe.
@@xdcsdiverx Thank you so much for that info. In truth I'm not sure what my rim is. I'm in the market for new tires at the moment and didn't even think to consider the rim rating. You have helped me a great deal. Thank you!!!
@@JetNation Glad to help. If you get some time, pop one of your wheels off and look on the rim itself. It may be stamped or have raised lettering indicating rim max PSI. could be on the backside of the rim where you cant normally see it. Good luck!
@@xdcsdiverx Good idea. I'm actually getting some new tires put on tomorrow. Ultimately chose the Cooper HT3 over the Firestone Transforce HT2 and some others. I'm going to ask the mechanic to take a look at that and I may. buy different rims if I need to. Again thanks. It's good to know there are people out there who are willing to help. I'm somewhat of a noob! lol
Let me guess. You don't use Goodyear tires. The only Goodyear tire I really liked and had zero problems with was the rear tire for my motorcycle. It was purchased in 1975. Goodyear doesn't make motorcycle tires currently. They can keep the rest.
I switched from Goodyear Marathon to Goodyear Endurance Load range E You can drive 87 miles per hour without any overheating of the tire. Says that on the tire.
It was good until you stated, inflate tires to their maximum on the tire. This is incorrect and dangerous, inflate tire like you would on your tow vehicle. Follow the data plate.
I had one of my customers had a blowout on his small trailer. The police helped him alongside the road and actually followed him to Walmart and went inside Walmart and told the tire store do not sell this man a light truck tire he needs to put on a trailer tire? Have the police not been keeping up with the laws in the last 10 years? That's all the RV manufacturers are installing is light truck tires because there's so much better..
Smaller rim size trailer tires are rolling faster and often exceeding their limit, than the larger diameter tow vehicle tires running at 65 mph. My rule of thumb is that when I am towing my rv, I am going on an adventure and I want to go slow enuf so as to be able to enjoy the scenery.
Please don’t drop your trailer ON the scale. Weigh both truck and trailer, park the trailer elsewhere and then weigh the truck. Subtract the difference
Given the miserable quality of travel trailers and their ST junk tires regardless of their claimed load class, each tire should be rated for the entire gross vehicle weight of the trailer so that if the other three are hanging off a cliff, or have already blown out on the freeway in summer as designed, the one remaining tire is rated to safely handle the entire weight of the vehicle. Having tires of the correct weight class, driving them at no more than 85% of their speed rating, and making sure before each travel day that they are +/- 1 psi of their optimal rated inflation will guarantee that they last at least a year or 1,500 miles, whichever comes first, or unless it gets hot. Welcome to the wonderful world of RV'ing! Can we offer you a sheet of R-38 aluminum foil for insulation in your walls and floor, too? Nevermind the material or performance, just trust our rating!
@@ReflectedMiles Where are you going to find a tire to fit a 15 or 16 inch rim that is capable of holding as much weight as you are suggesting? You don't need that much margin of safety even if you could find it.
They don't make trailer tires wide enough to keep a heavy trailer from sinking into soft ground. You're basically forced to go with a lt tire if you want better flotation.
Truck tires hold up very well and they are more weight baring than most trailer tires. So many say the trailer tires are made to sit for along time and that's wrong. You only need an all-season Truck tire on the trailer. I do not recommend Mud tires or mud and snow. if you run a 10 ply tire on the trailer the truck tire is great.
off topic...but I love it when RUclips puts a captivating ad on your channel that actually interests me, lol, because I know it helps you guys $$ I just watched an ad that lasted over 4 minutes! and I actually clicked on the banner to go to the site and order a ticket for the Shen Yun show! I try to watch a lot of ads that come on before your video starts (to help y'all out) becuase I know it can have a positive impact for you guys. This something that some RUclips watchers may not know...another good way to easily help out the Creators of channels you love and subscribe to is to watch (and even more so when you click on the ads) This one was really good. :D
Thank you Melissa!! You're right watching the full ad really does help and the RUclips creator gets more for that view. And if the ad is clicked and especially if a purchase is made then the creator gets even more from that view. Thank you for your support, you're awesome 😄
Most ST tires are made in china these days and are garbage. LT tires are far ahead of ST . Get LT tires with the same weight rating, often a couple sizes larger then ST original size, and dont look back
I think you said to set our trailer tire pressure to the max it says on the tire? I thought we set it to whatever the tire psi it says on that trailer decal/ tag often located on the driver's side front end of the trailer with a bunch of information on it like the gvwr, vin# etc. ?
Air pressures in the trailer tires is very important but a lot of issues are caused by excessive speeds. Cant tell you how many times I have seen people towing at 80mph.
Excellent video David...thanks! A common misconception among RVers is that they should simply pump up their tires to the maximum inflation pressure stamped on the sidewall. In fact, the recommended pressure depends on load rating and the load on each wheel. As an example, here are the recommended tire pressures versus loading for the Endurance ST: www.goodyearrvtires.com/pdfs/rv_inflation.pdf
Sorry... You Are So Wrong... Those are NOT the Recommended tire pressures!!! That is just a chart to show how the tire Load Limit is DERATED when running lower air pressures! There is No Way Goodyear would recommend running 25psi in their Endurance ST tire!!! BaHaHa
the main issue with trailer tires is literally every trailer made these days comes with the absolute bottom of the barrel tires. complete garbage. i think that is why so many people have "bad experiences" with ST tires. change them out for a higher grade tire.
In reality, you had no choice on your selection of tires, the smallest rim size LT tires is 16 inch, and your trailer uses 14 inch rims, so you were locked into the ST trailer tire selection. You don't have enough room to upgrade to a 16 inch rim. Airstream now offers LT225/75R16 tires on alloy rims on their larger trailers (25 ft and up I think) as an option, due to the strong demand for them.
Thank you I've been shopping for tires and I'm get ST tires due to the same reasons the current sets I have are rated to 85 mph but I still try to not go over 65 mph as I am towing a trailer and I never need to get any where fast #Full timing is true life
Yes you did a great job. I would add that the PSI in tires should be checked when cold. Also if you go up on your load range you also make sure your wheels (rims) will carry the load and take the higher PSI. NEVER add air to a tire that is run flat. When airing up tires you need a 3 foot leader hose so you can stand off to the side just incase it explodes. Stay safe and safe travels.
Most RVs come from the manufacturer with eight ply tires. I do not allow eight ply tires on my trailers, whether RV or cargo. I always specify ten ply tires. From there you can choose LT or ST, load range, etcetera. It has made a big difference in tire reliability on my trailers.
@ W Carl Hepker - a good ST tire (load range G) has 14 ply's not 10. Depends on Gross weight of trailer. My trailer came with 10 ply tires and they met the bare minimum for load on an 11000lb trailer.
Just found your videos. I really appreciate the videos. Lots of good info. Some people just like showing off. You guys are really putting in the effort to help people considering following in your footstteps. Peace be the journey!
Also, don't buy cheap tires, get a reputable brand ST or LT, and check the model for reviews. I now replace my trailer tires with LT range E no matter how heavy light the truck or trailer. I've never had any sway problems buying Nexen Roadian AT Pro RA8 running them at 75psi. I'm also paranoid about low pressure, and check before moving any/every trailer, also good to check wheel bearing grease too, and carry 2 trailer spares. I've personally never had any tires blow out. Lucky, possibly, or the LTs I've been buying are just high quality, and overkill is underrated? Love your content, god bless.
Good information... I had not realized the difference in sidewall thickness and flex. I have not towed a travel trailer yet, but we've towed a boat around for 22 years, and I've noticed a difference in trailer sway depending on the tires I had.
Of all the RUclips channels I watch I am so grateful you have decided to share your experiences on RUclips. I have learned so much about tires, solar systems and so much more. As a rv newbie i consider your channel must read/ view tv. Looking for to your next episode!
I own a rv repair shop just north of Elkhart and my customers that run 30k+ miles a year with large full time fifth wheels all use LT Firestone HTs because of blowout damages caused by ST tires. I can't speak to whats better or worse but in 40yrs and lots and lots of blow out repairs not one had LTs on it. Alot of higher end trailer manufacturers now offer LT tires as a option
Very good video. I retired from the tire manufacturing and our primary product was specialty tires. You are spot on. I have needed to explain the difference may times while on vacation throughout the years. Something you may not know is that the compound for trailer tires has ingredients that help resist uv rays but till cover them when parked. Know your axle rating and match the tires.
David, not ALL ST tires are rated at 65mph … My Goodyear Endurance ST tires are given an "N" rating which is 87mph.
I didn't know that. Thanks.
My Gladiator TT Tires are “N” rated as well! So far these have really held up well!
Great! Even better!
Fate Unbound Alli’s cousin recommended these gladiator tires. You can get up to like 10ply if you have 15in rims. We only have 14’s so 8 ply was the most they make in that size. Still such an upgrade.
@@AlliChuckAdventures Just about everyone has told me to replace my trailer tires with LT tires. The ones you have sound a lot better. Or the Goodyear Endurance. I've already had one blowout with my cheap C rated tires.
Hi David, one thing to clarify. ST tire speed ratings are not the same for all ST tires. Our tires have a speed rating of 81 mph. Suggest users look up their specific tires based upon the codes on the tires. Great video, loved it.
Well said. I seen a set of Maxxis ST tires Q speed rated (99 mph). I opted for a set of Carlisle Radial Trail HD ST tires rated for 81 mph. Fast enough for me! 😁
Great job. I’ve been in the tire business for 20yrs and couldn’t have said it better.
I also use a laser thermometer to measure the hub and tires to see if a tire is getting hot for some reason, such as a bearing going out, low air pressure or a bent axle. Just another way to extend tire life and be safe.
OMG how do you explain trucks with heavy loads all the time! I think you've read the simple guidelines and re-read them. Not sure, but i think I'd trust grandpa's advice.
Very well thought out presentation. A small factor some are not aware of also: One rating up is good for temp, speed, and ply. However, up-rating too much will cause trailer bounce which leads to excessive torques to the axles and hitch. It can also contribute to over-flex'g the framing of the trailer.
Exactly, trailer tires are designed to drag when cornering. Well built trailer tires like Kendas have always served me well.
David great job on the tire video. You have a much better understanding on tires than you give yourself credit for. You are correct excessive heat is one of the major reasons for tire failure due to over weight and low PSI. Retired now after 33 years in the tire business the number one reason for tire blow out and failure is road hazard. Ugh... those pesky nails. Love the channel!
Awesome information in this video. Only piece I'd mention is not all ST tires are 65mph rated. Some are rated (in sidewall) for 70, 75, 80 and even (crazy enough) 90 mph! Just picked up a set of Carlisle Radial Trail HD tires today rated for 80 mph.
Did this same thing last year. In an attempt to be rational about which tires to buy I did a little research regarding how tires are rated according to DOT spec.s. And looked at reviews. Seemed like a better approach than asking Uncle Joe what he thinks. I went from load range C ST tires to road range D ST tires. And went up a little in terms of speed rating.
Finding the right tires seems complicated. Many people like to talk about Chinese Bombs and other subjective criteria. Demonstrating a preference for US made tires. Yet to my knowledge there are only 2 "US Brands" of tires; Cooper and Goodyear. And there are many Chinese owners tire manufacturing facilities located in the US. So what's a US made tire? Does it matter? I'm just glad there are established ratings and at least supposedly those ratings are enforced by the US in order to protect consumers (and I believe that if they're funded they will do so). MY uncle Joe is a BS'er and you can't believe a word he says.
a fourth reason for blowouts, and perhaps less common is not towing a level trailer. I have seen rigs going down the road too high in the front or rear and this overloads one of the axles and overheats the tires
The load range / axle ratings is the bigger consideration to me. Every tire problem I have witnessed, or heard of directly from the affected user, have always been situations where the trailer axles / tires where running at full load. Many low-end tow behind RV's have running gear barely capable handling the load and not much cargo carrying capacity in the unit.
You specifically mentioned trailer tire specs compared to "passenger" tires. LT tires are not passenger tires. "P" tires are passenger tires.
Nice video. I believe that filling tires to the max pressure listed on the sidewall will cause them to flex less when hitting a pothole or other road hazard making them more likely to blowout. My trailer lists recommended pressure. I also will emphasize the stronger bead on the ST tires. On my gooseneck horse trailer the tandem axles are near the rear of the trailer and the tires will really flex outward when backing into a spot at very low speed to the point they look like they may pop off but never have.
Excellent information and well presented. I glanced through most of the comments before I commented and noticed something that is ALWAYS missed.
Pay attention to your SPARE TIRE. No one ever checks the condition and/or pressure of their spare tire. How old is it? When was the last time you removed that pretty (but outdated) tire cover and actually inspected the trailer spare? I had one once that had dang near rubbed a hole in the side wall. Also had a spare trailer tire that just exploded on the back of the trailer one day while I was taking a nap. Not a bad idea to check the truck spare also, they experience rubbing also.
Spot on about the spare. I didn't think to check mine until after I got it home after purchase (used trailer). The spare has a plug in it! I always think the back up of anything should be in better condition then the primary. It's the only thing keeping you from becoming a pedestrian
You hit it right on the head. I did so much research before my trip to Alaska last summer. Every thing that I learned about tires after visiting so many different web sites, you put it all into an 8:51 min video. Removed my fith wheel ST, D rated, max 65 mph, and installed Goodyear Endurance ST, E rated. Max 85 mph. Had the truck and trailer weighed, purchased the eezRV TPMS, replaced the truck tires and spare. Monitored the tire temp/pres info thought out the entire trip. Inspected tires on truck and trailer daily. Some of the roads in Alaska were really bad. Had zero issues there and back. 11750 miles. Tires look good and if worn, it wasn't enough to notice. It feels good that we think the same way about tires or your thinking like an old guy.
I don't know why, but people seem to always cheap out when buying tires. Not just for their trailers but for everything they drive as well.
All of our trailers get new high quality ST tires every 4yrs, regardless of tread depth or mileage. I have found that 4yrs seems to be the magic number and the chance of having a blowout increases dramatically after that. I also install a size taller when possible and at least one load range higher.
After 15yrs and thousands of miles of tandem towing the boat behind the 5th wheel, we have had only 1 blowout. It was my fault, the tires were 4yrs and 5 months old 😄
Agreed, I never knew why someone would spend 20K-80K on a trailer then buy garbage $90 tires. Just asking for trouble. I like your thinking on the every 4 years idea. Makes alot of sense.
@@bobpeg7457 Good for your brother, smart man!!
@@reimersorama AND...Why do people bulk at buying a Propride P3 or Hensley hitch when investing 50K-100K on a truck and trailer?
Never put an LT tire on a trailer. Its just wrong. Sorry.
That makes a lot of sense, many years ago when I started driving my father gave me a piece of advice I have followed, buy 5 year batteries and replace every 3 years, it isn't much money and I have never been stranded because of a bad battery, when a dome light was left on accidentally overnight it still had enough charge to start the truck and when headlights were left on it was still able to take a jump charge and not lose capacity.
Cat scale there are two apps for that. The first one is called CAT scale. This one will give you the location of a cat scale. The second app is called weigh my truck. This allows you to pay for the scale from your phone. Because I know a lot of you may not be tall enough to reach that button, to call the weight master.
Humm, I do not believe ST tires have a stiffer sidewall because I saw how flimsy my original tires were. Also alot of ST tires weigh less than many LT tires.
WOW, WOW WOW , Just found you guys on the weekend and as I am healing from a minor operation, I binge watched your journeys... I'm 62, and just wanted to say what an inspiration you youngsters are. Your honesty, zest for life, and frank asessments to stuff, and locations, as well as caring for each other and your pet baby's. Just wanted to reach out and say thanks again, I'm a fan. Oh, I love the Rottie, and the Cats. Not so much the wabbits. Long may your journey be.
A fourth cause of heat to the tire blowout problem (most overlooked especially by boaters) is wheel bearings. The grease dries out and becomes useless. This is problematic for boat trailers because they are subject to being submerged in water regularly and is why a lot have a zerk fitting on the hub. I have my wheel bearings repacked and seals changed at each tire replacement.
Ever noticed that most of the trailer tire replacement on the side of the road are boat trailers?
Grease doesn't "dry out". There is no water in it to start with. It may leak out due to a faulty grease seal, or evaporate due to heat and a bad seal, but it simply cannot dry out..................
maybe, I guess, on the value of ST tire, in theory. But had 3 blowouts in my new 5th wheel in 1st trip...load range E ST's. granted it was middle of the summer with over 100 ambient temp in places. but i'm obsessive on checking tire pressure, and trailer was lightly loaded, although did have a full tank of water. However, these were no-name China bombs, so the tech theory was trumped by the poor manufacturing. In my area, the only USA-made tires found were Goodyear LT, so that's what I went with...no problems since.
Good job explaining a very misunderstood subject. Just want to throw in something we experienced with our 1st trailer which goes against one of the things you recommended. When we got our Aliner it was used and the tires on it were completely bald in the center but had original tread depth on the sides. I figured they'd just been overinflated. I inflated the new set of tires to the pressure stated on the sidewall, checked it regularly, and found that the exact same thing was happening. Had to replace those tires prematurely. The next set I reduced the pressure by 10% and had much more even tread wear. The moral of this story is that you need to inspect your tires for even wear and take action if it's uneven ( in any way). A TPMS system is a wonderful tool but visual inspections are still necessary. Thanks again for a lot of really enjoyable videos!
Z
agree
Good video. As you stated, 'age old argument LT vs ST…’ Having towed trailers for over 40+ years and a relative in the tire biz, I’ll stick with ST for the added sidewall strength. Most failures are due to the 3 items you mentioned but I’d add 1 and make it #1; "Chineese Poppers” or cheap tires. Get rid of them, spend a few bucks for good quality tires and move up a rating and you'll eliminate a majority of issues. It’ll cost you a lot more in the long run if you don’t. I’d also inflate my rear truck tires to the max rating on the side wall & front ones to about 80-90% of max per sidewall info and not what is on the door jam of the truck. Door jam PSI’s are fairly low and are for max comfort vs weight. Next subject: keep your bearing well greased !
I agree with you 100% on the air pressures for the tow vehicle I do the exact same thing.
I tried to find someone at a high-end local tire shop who believed the sidewall performance claims for ST tires. If anyone believed it, they weren't willing to admit it. As one pointed out, if you take the most famously expensive travel trailer brand (Airstream) and you order one upgraded to the best tires they offer, it will be delivered from the factory with LT tires.
This is inacurate, the best way to determine the inflation that your tires should be at is by weighing each axle of your tow vehicle while towing. When towing my trailer the front and rear axle of my truck were the exact same weight. You should then reach out to the tire manufacturer and ask what the recommended pressure is for that weight. I run all the same pressure in all the tires of my truck now. (Prior to weighing my truck I operated under your school of thought for tow vehicle tire pressure)
@@ReflectedMiles What Uncle Joe at the local high-end tire shop says may or may not be factual. How many of those people actually know a lot about tires? Some maybe. The fact they sell tires and put them on vehicles does not mean they're experts. If they have a high profit margin on an LT tire and a low profit margin on an ST tire which one do you think they're going to try to sell you?
I think that may be particularly true of an RV manufacturer. These companies (corporations?) are in business to make a profit. Do you seriously not think an RV manufacturer will not cut corners to make a profit? A lot of the stuff put on the market is junk slapped together as quickly as possible.
I think that in general you get what you pay for but I know from experience that is not always the case. Branding is a big part of it. Slapping a well known and respected brand on poorly made products may be more common than you think. Airstream? They're still stick built aren't they? Subject to leaks? Easy to damage aluminum? Actually heavy in comparison with better built more modern rigs? Old outdated technology with a big name and a big price tag?
Raven Feather My point was that, when there is any constraint on price and profit must be protected, ST tires are what get put on by both a legendary RV manufacturer and a tire shop that outfits the performance-vehicle and racing community. However, if you say to them, “Look, money’s no object-I just want the best tires you can put on my trailer,” suddenly both completely unrelated companies are staking customer satisfaction on LT tires. In fact, I would have to go back and check to be sure, but I think they are even the same brand-Michelin. I suspect they just use over-rating on the load capacity to get extra sidewall strength.I don’t have a single LT tire on the two trailers I own, but I am very tired of decades of ST failures leaving me stranded and these practices at the high-end combined with so many failures of different ST brands has led me to a different conclusion than standard industry claims and practices. There is probably no other industry as consistently shoddy and misrepresenting of the facts than that represented by the RVIA.They give “engineering” a whole new definition (“a sales manager with a CAD program”). That’s why they can look at you with a straight face and tell you that a piece of foil-faced bubble wrap has the same R-value as 12 inches of fiberglass insulation in your house attic (its actual value is approx. R-1 and it is illegal under federal law for the material’s manufacturers to claim otherwise). They just don’t care.
i just read in the owners manual of a 2019 honda, to replace the tires at ten years if they aren't worn out.( i had to read that a few times) i know it's not a trailer. but if they can make a car tire last 10 years, why not a trailer?
I’ve towed heavy cattle and flat bed trailers (12k-20k)....over the years have replaced all of the trailer tires with e rated lt tires.....lt tires are much better made.....grandma pa was right
I had a blow out last month on I95 in Florida on the way to Key West. Well over 100 degrees, not fun, I was lucky. No damage other than it dislodged the fender which I was able to repair when I got to Key West. My tires are 5 yrs old and I feel like I am on borrowed time. I am going to look into LT tires. Thanks!
Naturally .. The RV manufacturers install the bare minimum load range tires that appear to meet specs. For me, immediate tire change is first thing on To-Do list for new trailer. :)
um...not all RV manufacturers install the cheap-o tires...mine came with really good high speed, high load range many ply tires-standard :D
@@tarotnessxx4014 ... Which brand was that?
@@lonelyprepperhomestead911 I have a 2018 Airstream International Serenity :) (saved all my life for it, lol)
@@lonelyprepperhomestead911 If you meant the tires...they're Goodyear brand
@@tarotnessxx4014 ... Sniff, darn Flu bug.
I never said anything about cheap tires. What I was referring to was the fact they will use a 'load range' that just meets specs. It could be the most expensive tire made ... but if load range just meets specs .. there's a good chance people might accidentally breach that range with their weight. I've seen new ones blow apart even though weight was in limits.
If they just went one range higher, would be a big help in my opinion. If you got better tires on the Airstream, kudos to them. But, as you know, they're kinda in a class of their own. :)
trailer tires built for heat dissipation are destroyed when they get heated sounds good.
use truck tires if they can handle a 8000lb truck think they can handle a 3000lb trailer
My 2018 Heartland North Trail 22FBS came with 205/75/14 C rated (50 psi max /65 mph max) china bombs. I immediately replaced them with 205/75/14 D rated (65 psi max / 87 mph max) Goodyear Endurance and we have not had any problems in the 1-1/2 years we have owned the trailer. I highly recommend the Goodyear Endurance tires.
Take note AIRSTREAMS are now mounting only LT tires on their new models.
Even Airstream makes mistakes. They also used the Goodyear Marathon tire which soon after was discovered to be a horrible tire with many blowouts.
Airstreams are also very light
@@thefartdart good point! They also probably aren't using LT tires on every single one of their travel trailers. Personally I think the engineers made the ST tire different from LT tires and these differences are why it's right and safer to always use ST tires for trailers. Thanks
@@Hundert1 the Chinese ones
After watching many of your upgrade videos I would like to ask the following:
1. Did you select your RV, specifically the price point, knowing you were going to do all of these upgrades?
2. Having to do it over would you have spent more to purchase an RV with your upgrades in place?
3. Do the pros in doing them yourself (you pick the equipment, better functionality & performance, you know it's installed right) out weigh the cons of voiding the warranty and incurring the additional costs?
Lastly the bunnies need more screen time!
Thx
I think you did a great job providing the FACTS about choosing tires for your rig. Quoting a recent broadcast I heard on The RV Show USA, from a retired tire engineer. He said exactly what you pointed out. “The main reasons you will have a blowout (other than a road hazard) are under inflated tires, load is too heavy, driving speed is too high and tires are too old (older than 5 years). All tires are manufactured to DOT standards and just because they are ST rated or manufactured in China doesn’t make them a bad tire”. I’ve put over 10,000 miles on my 2014, 32 foot, coachmen apex travel trailer with original factory tires and I have not had a blowout. I will be replacing my tires this year because they are 5 years old.
You are completely correct about causes of excess heat. Most people drive way too fast for the tires on the trailer. As an engineer, I can tell you that we like to run things at 75 to 80% of ratings. That means a speed rating of 65 should be towed at 55. (Do you see the signs along the highway that state such a maximum speed for towing? THAT is one reason for those signs)
That why I run LT tires, I can run faster. There are more blow outs with ST tires. That is a fact.
Great comments. I have two friends that have a 42' and 43' fifth wheel trailer with toy hauler garages. They have both switch to a load range G w/ST tire and the pressure in them is recommended at 110 PSI however the tire dealer said the pressure should be at 100 PSI. He sells 80 to 90 sets a week of these bigger tires. These fifths are both triple axle due to the weight. One of my friends does not like to keep his speed down which we have told him if he has a blow out he will have a very hard time getting his 43' fifth under control to stop. He has already had one blow out that almost took the whole bottom of his fifth out. Maybe he will keep the speed down now.
New ST tires such as the GoodYear Endurance, Carlisle, and Maxxis have higher load ratings and speed ratings of over 80MPH. ST tire makers got the message and are now producing better products.
Load capacity? I pull an enclosed car trailer with a 12K capacity. It has 15” rims (unfortunately but not enough room to go to 16”) I had to go to LT because I couldn’t get a Trailer Tire with a Load range E rated for 3K or better. Hence I had to go to a LT that has a rating of 3,255. Great info, there a lot of fifth wheel and bumper pull trailers that are huge and should have 16” rims and don’t which is why they have such failure rate. I’m going to raise the trailer about 2” (not via an axle flip) so I can run 16” tires which will be almost 2.25” taller. A taller tire cuts way down on RPM (revolutions per mile) which cuts the heat build way down.
Transeagle all steel ST tire 225/75R15 Load Range F (12 ply) $97 each....these are the bombs!
Thanks for the input.
😀👍Great Tips
Great vid and very informative. I just bought a small travel trailer. The tires looked like they were in great shape. But they were mud terrain truck tires. On the drive home the treads peeled off one of the tires. The trailer came with a spare so I changed to the tire, When I got home I let the guy know one of the tires blew out, He apologized and said that the receipts for the tires should be in all the paperwork and to see if they were still under warranty. I found the receipts and the tires were 7 years old 😅 I have truck tires on my truck bed trailer, and on my utility trailer but I was interested to see if it would be possible to use truck tires for the travel trailer. After seeing your video I think I'm gonna go ahead and go with trailer tires.
St are not speed rated as high therefor at 65-75 they overheat and blow good luck you will need it
LT tires come in different load ranges ... a load range E 10 ply rated is what's typically used on 3/4 and 1 ton trucks these intake to ... 80 psi... and are used for the 3/4 and 1ton to eliminate sidewall flex ... running the cheaper load rand D will cause sidewall fkrx on heavy loads . The sidewall tells the tale of load capacity and that capacity is only when at max inflation. My trailer tires are rated at... 75 mph...some are 81 mph ... not all are 65. Once again sidewall states load cap and at what inflation and speed rating... most blow puts are under inflated tires and old dry rotted rubber not the tire itself. I ran over loaded at 7800lbs on load range c tires never lost a tire and ran 56-75mph . I kept them aired up to just over 50 psi cold I also serviced my hubs yearly and...lol... even my 3500lb axles were bent mildly with negative camber. I now have 5200s and load range E tires with the same maintenance.
You are dealing with a relatively light trailer. My experience with a fifth wheel is that LT tires with steel belted sidewalls are best. Bridgestone Duravis or Michelin XPS rib have both served me well. Goodyear Wrangler ST caused me the most grief.
You did leave out 2 very important things: shots of Sweetie and Alice.
You're right....what is wrong with me?! It won't happen again.
And Butters, and Min and Tat!!!
And Jenn
You’re awesome, David. Good stuff. When my factory Goodyears are ready to be replaced, I will not be skimping on the replacement ST tires.
I agree, David is extremely wonderful!!!!!
Where did it come from that ST tires have stiffer sidewalls? I switched my 5th wheel tires from ST to LT and the LTs seem to have much stiffer sidewalls.
I was thinking the same thing. A 10 ply or higher LT tire With a high load rating should stabilize everything right out.
I have 12 ply on my motor home which is probably over kill. However for the safety of my family I don't want to take any chances. Statics on RV fatalities show that the majority are tire related. I found that Les Schwab Tire Centers are extremely good for the RV'er. Tires, suspension, brakes, anything having to do with the under carriage of your RV they can help you with. I also like that they are nationwide.
I agree with you on the advantages of the ST tire over the LT. That was not as clear a few years ago but ST tires have improved a lot since then.
The tires on both the trailer and truck should be inflated to manufacturers recommendation for the weight the tire is carrying, not to the max on the side wall. Over inflation may result in less tread contact on the ground that could impair handling and cause abnormal premature wear.
Several years ago most all ST tires were speed rated to 65 mph. This is not the case with some of the new design premium ST tires. I believe the Carlisle Radial Trail HD is rated to 81 mph and the new Goodyear Endurance is rated at 87 mph. Even so, I would not tow that fast and would still stay at around 65 for safety reasons.
You were wise to upgrade from a C to a D. I have a similar size trailer and the same Duramax truck in 4WD. The trailer originally had the same size C tire. I went even safer to an E rated tire with no regrets. It was slightly more expensive but tires are not a place to save money. I would also avoid going with less expensive off brand China tires. Three ST brands that seem to have a good rep are the Carlisle Radial Trail HD, the Goodyear Endurance and the Maxxis. An ST tire for the big 5th wheels is the Sailun. Many folks go with a high end LT tire for the big rigs but I favor the Sailun or the Endurance in the lighter big rigs.
You recommended a tire pressure monitoring system in the video but did not say if you use one. I agree that it is an excellent idea and finally got off my duff and brought an EEZTIRE system from EEZRV Products last month at the Quartzsite big tent. My experience is limited, but so far so good.
Looks like you have the BF Goodrich KO2 tire on your Duramax truck, upgraded one size. I am curious how many miles you have on them? We have the same generation 2007 Classic Duramax in the family and it only got about 24K of wear on the KO2. The weight kills them. They recently made changes to the rubber compound and now offer a mileage warranty. If yours has the warranty, then you have the new compound. The new version is not available in all sizes yet.
Bob .... What kind of truck do you have and which Michelin tire.
My Duramax is the same as David's and Jenny's but with 4WD. The previous tires were stock size Michelin LTX M/S2. They had a warranty over 50K (either 60 or 70K) but were down to or near the wear bars at about 27K. Michelin ended up prorating them out for new tires.
The tires were well maintained at the proper pressure, rotated and balanced regularly. Driving was easy. I was told the poor wear was due to the heavy truck with a heavy diesel engine, towing, driving in hot climates, and driving a lot on dirt back roads. They do well on lighter 1/2 trucks but not so well on the heavy diesel HD trucks.
Thanks for the additional information. That is great that you were able to get 80K mile with tires on a HD truck.
The Michelin tire line in that style for my size is now called the Defender LTX M/S (50K) or A/T2 (60K) or Winter (40K). Their write-up for the A/T2 says 35% longer life on gravel so maybe it is back road driving that wore mine down so fast.
So if my ST Class C tires say I can drive 80MPH ( Which I would never) am I okay? I don't drive over 65 end of subject. My Class C rating is 50PSI, 1750LBS per axle. our Trailer is 4400 empty 6900 max cargo full. Knock on wood we've not had a problem with our Rig and we got sticker tires on it 2 years ago. Let me know what you think. Appreciate it very much!
Also note that for every 10F temperature change, there is a 1psi pressure change. So 35psi on a 32F morning in the mountains, becomes 42psi if you next stop is 85F someplace warmer. And vice versa. Expecting 40F temp change from locations? Right, check your tires!
I totally agree with your opinion to use ST tires with the right load rating.
Back in September, 2017, the RVIA changed its tire recommendation for member manufacturers and they now recommend that manufacturers install tires with a load rating that will give a weight capacity (for the pair of tires) of at least 110% of the axle’s weight rating (GAWR). On my fifth wheel, they used to install a Load Range D tire but my new 2019 has Load Range E tires - still Castle Rock though.
Having tires rated for 110% of the GAWR should be a minimum. Goodyear Endurance, Maxxis M8008 and Carlisle Radial Trail HD all have respectable reputations.
hit the nail on the head .
short, accurate, and solid advise very few people use till they have a tile failure.
Great video. I'm am going to purchase Good Year Endurance when I need tires next time. Thanks for the information.
I have been using the Goodyear endurance on my toy hauler and Horse Trailer for a few years now due to my factory toy hauler tires bubbling. They have been great I have towed the toy hauler approximately 8000 miles with no issues they are great tires.
ST tires can and often are rated for speeds over 65 mph. A Goodyear Endurance tire is at 81mph with the proper rating..my Carlisle tires are 75mph rated ST tires. My Carlisle is a 205/75R-15 107M 8 ply tire. The M rating is for 75mph. I never tow over 65mph regardless of the trailer behind me. Getting there in one piece is always better than not.
You mentioned tire date, but, you did not elaborate. I have a 2018 Coachman, that had tires (ST185/80R13 D rated Kenda Loadstar) with a code date of 2015. I purchased the camper in 2019 as a "New" Inventory leftover. Never exceeded 60 mph, and tires were always at 65psi, but, yes, I had a blowout, causing damage to the camper sidewall. And, I was only going 40mph when the tire blew! The actual manufacture was the one that put tires that were already 3 years old on a NEW camper. While Forest River is paying for repairs, just be careful of the Date Code on the side of the tire. We, in the popup world call these tires on these campers "China Bombs" because all are made in China, and they usually blow off the tread when you least expect them too.
ST tires can have speed ratings other than 65 MPH. My Goodyear Endurance tires are N rated which is 87 MPH. I'd love to put LT tires on my camper but good luck finding a 14" diameter LT tire.
I just got Goodyear endurance 225/75r15 10ply and the maximum PSI is 80. I'm not sure I should put them at 80 my camper weighs 6000lbs. Each tire maximum =2800 lol my rims can only do 2200lbs and each axle is 3500 so perhaps I run the new tires at 65 or 70 to give it some cushion? Am I wrong for not running my tires at 80?
Tires are not the thing to go cheapo on. They're the only thing that touches the pavement. Endurance seem to be the way to go now. Glad to see more and more manufacturers are installing them at the factory.
The next thing to improve tire life is to have them balanced, then a annual or ten thousand mile HAND inspection, clean, repack wheel bearings and seals (not E-Z Lube) Then consider upgrading your suspension with a leaf spring equalizer like a Cre3000 or Dexter E-Z Flex.....there are several different choices for suspension upgrades. Have your brakes checked.
Travel day tire pressure checks, feel and visually check the tires, safe speed and you have done your best. On really hot days slow down some to allow for the extra heat build up.
LT D rated are available. I would consider them for off road use. STs won't hold up to rocks very well. There is every reason to use 8 ply d rated all terrain tires on a trailer. ST tires are weak. LT will also eliminate speed concerns.
Very good advice, especially 1. check air pressure and 2 replace tires after 5 years regardless of use. The elephant in the room was barely mentioned. Most RVs are cheaply built and the tires are cheap, poor quality and have barely sufficient load and/or speed ratings. They are called China bombs!! Before even the first trip, most RV tires should be replaced with better quality tires. Also be aware that the RV load ratings are often skimpy. Manufacturers not only skimp on the tires but often the axles and suspension components are insufficient or at best marginal.
Actually, I can tell you have never owned a 1 ton truck... look at E of F truck highway tires. Better than trailer tires. Many, many trailer manufacturers offer the LT tires as a upgrade on their higher end trailers. What does that tell you? Many have a 3ply sidewall and very little sidewall give. Not all LT tires are the same just like not all ST are the same. Some E rated tires are only for upto 3000lbs, others in another size are for over 4000lbs - all in the same brand and line tire. The tires I run are rated for over 4K lbs each and never buy anything less. Everyone I know have had issues with ST tires. We all have changed to LT and not had one issue. They also got rid of any sway. And yes, when I tow, I tow heavy. Much heavier than your travel trailer.
What about towing in deep winter? Seems like nobody makes studded or even winter-rated ST tires!? Towing a small (single axle) snowmobile trailer, loaded weight is only 900lbs with the sled - was going to run truck or even car tires because these are the only studded tires I could find. Any thoughts?
I hear you and this is the common knowledge talk; however, Many Many trailer owners have gone through the major trailer tire companies with poor results and posts on forums. Also, most trailer tires, regardless of brand, are made in China. If you keep digging for info, you find that some RV companies have upgrade tire packages that add LT tires to trailers! Also, Michelin has a load/PSI chart that recommends pressure to load ratios instead of maximum pressures. Metric rated tires are much stiffer and if set to 80 psi, it will shake your trailer apart. So, if you upgrade to the next letter the wheel and the camper have to be able to handle the pressure. I know my post goes against common knowledge statements but this is what I have found over the years.
It is possible to get st tires with higher speed ratings, speed ratings is the number one cause of tire blowouts on RVs. Often the LT has better weight, and speed ratings at a much lower price. I run st load rang G tires with a speed rating of 82mph but they are $310 each ×6.
I think most people go with cheap trailer tires because the rule of thumb is to change them out every 3 years, not 5. changing out good tires every 3 year is not cost effective. I can't tell you how many people I see passing me up on the interstate going 75+. Stay at 65 max and your tires will last. I had uneven wear on my trailer tires because my axle was bent. I had my axle re-aligned and my tires now wear evenly and I don't exceed 65. I also slow down to 45 with high wind. I slow down when Semi trucks are passing. I use the right truck for the job. Its not all about the tires, it is your driving habit. Stop every couple of hours and rest your tow vehicle. Everyone wants to make a 8 hour trip in 4 hours. I am sure everyone here has a trailer and I bet half of you on here are guilty for speeding causing dangerous conditions for the other half. I see it every time I am on the road.
Great video! One thing you did mention was upgrading from a load rating of "C" to a "D" rated tire to provide additional capacity. It should be noted that the rim max pressure should be accounted for as well. My 26' TT had 205/75R14's from the factory at 50 PSI. Moving to "D" rated tires requires increasing the PSI to 65 PSI to maintain the "D" rating, but the rim is rated to 50. Its usually stamped on the rim itself. Just a few thoughts when upgrading you tires. Thanks again for the video!
Wait, so what do you do in that instance? Is increasing to 65 psi not a good idea with the rim rating of 50 psi? Will I need to get a new rim for the new, higher load rated tire?
I appreciate any info you could provide. Thanks
@@JetNation So right out of the gate if you put on a 65 psi rated tire on a 50 psi rim, you are exceeding the rim PSI by almost 30%. Also, if you drive in hot conditions, have a heavy trailer or at highway speeds, you could be increasing tire temp which adds to PSI on both tire and rim. My recommendation is to pair new higher rated tires with new rims at the same time. I was going to a D or E rated tire, but decided against it due to cost of replacing everything. I'm only a weekend warrior camper, so no biggie with my C rated 15" rims. If you have already mounted the 65 psi tires on a 50 psi rim, I doubt you will have tire issues, but you may be over spec on the rim. But dont lower tire pressure! That will absolutely destroy your tires and is unsafe.
@@xdcsdiverx Thank you so much for that info. In truth I'm not sure what my rim is. I'm in the market for new tires at the moment and didn't even think to consider the rim rating. You have helped me a great deal. Thank you!!!
@@JetNation Glad to help. If you get some time, pop one of your wheels off and look on the rim itself. It may be stamped or have raised lettering indicating rim max PSI. could be on the backside of the rim where you cant normally see it. Good luck!
@@xdcsdiverx Good idea. I'm actually getting some new tires put on tomorrow. Ultimately chose the Cooper HT3 over the Firestone Transforce HT2 and some others. I'm going to ask the mechanic to take a look at that and I may. buy different rims if I need to. Again thanks. It's good to know there are people out there who are willing to help.
I'm somewhat of a noob! lol
Let me guess. You don't use Goodyear tires. The only Goodyear tire I really liked and had zero problems with was the rear tire for my motorcycle. It was purchased in 1975. Goodyear doesn't make motorcycle tires currently. They can keep the rest.
I switched from Goodyear Marathon to Goodyear Endurance Load range E
You can drive 87 miles per hour without any overheating of the tire. Says that
on the tire.
It was good until you stated, inflate tires to their maximum on the tire. This is incorrect and dangerous, inflate tire like you would on your tow vehicle. Follow the data plate.
I had one of my customers had a blowout on his small trailer. The police helped him alongside the road and actually followed him to Walmart and went inside Walmart and told the tire store do not sell this man a light truck tire he needs to put on a trailer tire? Have the police not been keeping up with the laws in the last 10 years? That's all the RV manufacturers are installing is light truck tires because there's so much better..
Smaller rim size trailer tires are rolling faster and often exceeding their limit, than the larger diameter tow vehicle tires running at 65 mph. My rule of thumb is that when I am towing my rv, I am going on an adventure and I want to go slow enuf so as to be able to enjoy the scenery.
Please don’t drop your trailer ON the scale. Weigh both truck and trailer, park the trailer elsewhere and then weigh the truck. Subtract the difference
Just a stupid question, should the tire be rated for the full weight/ half/ quarter of the trailer's GVRW, or for the GVRW of the axle?
Given the miserable quality of travel trailers and their ST junk tires regardless of their claimed load class, each tire should be rated for the entire gross vehicle weight of the trailer so that if the other three are hanging off a cliff, or have already blown out on the freeway in summer as designed, the one remaining tire is rated to safely handle the entire weight of the vehicle. Having tires of the correct weight class, driving them at no more than 85% of their speed rating, and making sure before each travel day that they are +/- 1 psi of their optimal rated inflation will guarantee that they last at least a year or 1,500 miles, whichever comes first, or unless it gets hot. Welcome to the wonderful world of RV'ing! Can we offer you a sheet of R-38 aluminum foil for insulation in your walls and floor, too? Nevermind the material or performance, just trust our rating!
@@ReflectedMiles Where are you going to find a tire to fit a 15 or 16 inch rim that is capable of holding as much weight as you are suggesting? You don't need that much margin of safety even if you could find it.
d j :-> pure sarcasm...
They don't make trailer tires wide enough to keep a heavy trailer from sinking into soft ground. You're basically forced to go with a lt tire if you want better flotation.
Truck tires hold up very well and they are more weight baring than most trailer tires. So many say the trailer tires are made to sit for along time and that's wrong. You only need an all-season Truck tire on the trailer. I do not recommend Mud tires or mud and snow. if you run a 10 ply tire on the trailer the truck tire is great.
off topic...but I love it when RUclips puts a captivating ad on your channel that actually interests me, lol, because I know it helps you guys $$ I just watched an ad that lasted over 4 minutes! and I actually clicked on the banner to go to the site and order a ticket for the Shen Yun show! I try to watch a lot of ads that come on before your video starts (to help y'all out) becuase I know it can have a positive impact for you guys. This something that some RUclips watchers may not know...another good way to easily help out the Creators of channels you love and subscribe to is to watch (and even more so when you click on the ads) This one was really good. :D
Thank you Melissa!! You're right watching the full ad really does help and the RUclips creator gets more for that view. And if the ad is clicked and especially if a purchase is made then the creator gets even more from that view. Thank you for your support, you're awesome 😄
Fate Unbound awe...🤗
Most ST tires are made in china these days and are garbage. LT tires are far ahead of ST . Get LT tires with the same weight rating, often a couple sizes larger then ST original size, and dont look back
I think you said to set our trailer tire pressure to the max it says on the tire? I thought we set it to whatever the tire psi it says on that trailer decal/ tag often located on the driver's side front end of the trailer with a bunch of information on it like the gvwr, vin# etc. ?
Always use a higher rated tire for sidewalk plys, then your trailer is rated for and you will be good, and stay away from China Bombs.
On my Winni Micro Mini: Westlake CR857+ 235-75R15 Speed Rating "L" 75 mph
It is elegal to use truck tires in Canada the tire store won't even put them on a trailer the have to say trailer
Air pressures in the trailer tires is very important but a lot of issues are caused by excessive speeds. Cant tell you how many times I have seen people towing at 80mph.
Excellent video David...thanks! A common misconception among RVers is that they should simply pump up their tires to the maximum inflation pressure stamped on the sidewall. In fact, the recommended pressure depends on load rating and the load on each wheel. As an example, here are the recommended tire pressures versus loading for the Endurance ST: www.goodyearrvtires.com/pdfs/rv_inflation.pdf
Exactly right.
Sorry... You Are So Wrong... Those are NOT the Recommended tire pressures!!!
That is just a chart to show how the tire Load Limit is DERATED when running lower air pressures!
There is No Way Goodyear would recommend running 25psi in their Endurance ST tire!!! BaHaHa
the main issue with trailer tires is literally every trailer made these days comes with the absolute bottom of the barrel tires. complete garbage. i think that is why so many people have "bad experiences" with ST tires. change them out for a higher grade tire.
In reality, you had no choice on your selection of tires, the smallest rim size LT tires is 16 inch, and your trailer uses 14 inch rims, so you were locked into the ST trailer tire selection. You don't have enough room to upgrade to a 16 inch rim. Airstream now offers LT225/75R16 tires on alloy rims on their larger trailers (25 ft and up I think) as an option, due to the strong demand for them.
Falken makes tires in 15
You have false information, you need to study up before making videos as facts!
Thank you for a concise and thorough review.
I have some st tires with a max speed of 50 mph. Trailer tires are not designed for rough roads and should never be used off road per spec.
Can i use small Off road tires For my trailers so i can pull my trailer in the beach Because those stock tires get stuck all the time in the sand
I’m sorry but I didn’t like this video...No Sweetie? Not even just a second at the end??
Thank you I've been shopping for tires and I'm get ST tires due to the same reasons the current sets I have are rated to 85 mph but I still try to not go over 65 mph as I am towing a trailer and I never need to get any where fast #Full timing is true life
Trailer sway is one of the biggest contributors in overheating. Make sure your equipment is correct.
Yes you did a great job. I would add that the PSI in tires should be checked when cold. Also if you go up on your load range you also make sure your wheels (rims) will carry the load and take the higher PSI. NEVER add air to a tire that is run flat. When airing up tires you need a 3 foot leader hose so you can stand off to the side just incase it explodes. Stay safe and safe travels.
Most RVs come from the manufacturer with eight ply tires. I do not allow eight ply tires on my trailers, whether RV or cargo. I always specify ten ply tires. From there you can choose LT or ST, load range, etcetera. It has made a big difference in tire reliability on my trailers.
@ W Carl Hepker - a good ST tire (load range G) has 14 ply's not 10. Depends on Gross weight of trailer. My trailer came with 10 ply tires and they met the bare minimum for load on an 11000lb trailer.
Just found your videos. I really appreciate the videos. Lots of good info. Some people just like showing off. You guys are really putting in the effort to help people considering following in your footstteps. Peace be the journey!
Also, don't buy cheap tires, get a reputable brand ST or LT, and check the model for reviews. I now replace my trailer tires with LT range E no matter how heavy light the truck or trailer. I've never had any sway problems buying Nexen Roadian AT Pro RA8 running them at 75psi. I'm also paranoid about low pressure, and check before moving any/every trailer, also good to check wheel bearing grease too, and carry 2 trailer spares. I've personally never had any tires blow out. Lucky, possibly, or the LTs I've been buying are just high quality, and overkill is underrated? Love your content, god bless.
Great advice. I put on a tpms on my coach for added insurance. I just turn it on, and within minutes it shows me all the pressures!
While this is older, some of the LT tires are probably better than some of the junk ST tires also!
Good information... I had not realized the difference in sidewall thickness and flex. I have not towed a travel trailer yet, but we've towed a boat around for 22 years, and I've noticed a difference in trailer sway depending on the tires I had.
I so appreciate the detailed info...Thanks!
Of all the RUclips channels I watch I am so grateful you have decided to share your experiences on RUclips. I have learned so much about tires, solar systems and so much more. As a rv newbie i consider your channel must read/ view tv. Looking for to your next episode!