Mercedes GL350 OM642 Rebuild - Part IX of ?
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- Опубликовано: 20 дек 2024
- In this edition, I get the oil pump installed, put the rest of the valvetrain in place, set the timing, and get the front cover on the engine.
A couple years ago, my Mercedes GL350 - der Schißewagen! - started making a ticking sound at half engine speed. Turns out, it spun the #2 rod bearing. Well, more than spun; it demolished it. I finally decided to fix it and get it back on the road.
This video is the seventh installment of the rebirth. For more details, you can see my thread on Grassroots Motorsports at: grassrootsmoto...
If you've found this video because you, too, have a GL350 or other OM642-equipped vehicle you have my utmost condolences and pity. If you're thinking about buying one, or really any modern-ish Mercedes product, you might be better served by either setting your wallet on fire or starting a cocaine habit. Or hey, do both! It'll be much less painful in the long run!
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I know this is an old post, but I just blew up my 2014 GL350's OM642, due to catastrophic oil pressure loss from an improperly sealed oil filter gasket. Great information in you videos. By any chance, did you a part on removing it?
Oof, sorry to hear about that. I've heard that those oil filter housing can leak a lot, but I never realized it could be so bad as to drop the pressure that much! As to your question, I'm afraid I don't understand what you mean by "By any chance, did you a part on removing it?" I did remove and re-install the oil filter housing so I could get a new gasket in there, if that's what you're asking.
Good afternoon Bill. When aligning to the line on the timing case with the crank pulley, do you set the crank pulley to the O/T mark?
I do not recall off the top of my head for certain - when I was putting everything back together, I just made sure the crank was at TDC for #1 and then lined up the balance shaft and cam sprocket marks. If my memory is correct, there should be multiple degree markings on the pulley and if you're trying to set timing, you would want that pulley to be at whatever the zero-degree mark is at the line on the timing cover.
@@williamehrman Thank you for the advice!
absolutely fantastic
In order to do this correctly, must the oil pan be removed so the timing can align right?
No need to remove the oil pan to set the timing. If you take the crank pulley off, you can see the timing mark on the crank sprocket. Alternately, you could probably pull an injector or a glow plug to determine when #1 is at TDC.
Hi Bill, could you please tell me what size adaptor you use to pull those timing guide pin?
Thank you
I put a bolt through a socket and tighten it down until the pin slid out
Genius! That's a great idea! I don't recall what the thread size and pitch was off the top of my head.
So, how was the Knob Creek?
With this project.. It was necessary!
Hi Bill in the video it's hard to see the timing points. Are the points on the tip of exhaust gear facing out on both sides? My engine will not turn over!!?? Thanks Jim K
Ah, sorry about that - these marks are a bit of a pain to really get good captures of.
On the right side of the engine, the exhaust cam sprocket will have the dot that is in the valley pointing outward, towards the right, and level with the surface of the head. The dot at the top of the tooth will be matched up with the dot that is in the valley of the intake cam sprocket. The dot at the top of the tooth on the intake came sprocket will be aligned with the surface of the head.
On the left side of the engine, the dot on the valley of the intake cam should be aligned with the surface of the head pointing right, towards the valley of the engine. the dot on the tooth of the intake cam should be aligned with the dot on the valley of the exhaust cam. The dot on the tooth of the exhaust cam should be aligned with the surface of the head, pointing out to the left.
Assume that you are standing behind the engine, facing forwards such that the front of the car would be in front of you. Draw an imaginary line that bisects the cam gears at the level of the surface of the head. On the left side, starting from the left with the exhaust cam, you would have a tip dot, valley dot, tip dot, valley dot all lined up on that imaginary line. On the right side, continuing from the left with the intake came, you would have tip dot, valley dot, tip dot, valley dot.
If I'm reading WIS, my pictures, and your comment all correctly, it sounds to me like you have the right side 180 degrees out of time.
Im missing one bolt from oíl pump, my engine comed in few boxes... and now tryng to make a working engine... every step is a pain in the a$$ when you are not the person that dissasemble the engine... bolas i think and I gues are toro bolts x45... m8x 40mm ... not sure tho... if i cant find the missing one ill orden them New just to be sure... all this using epc and wis... but is the only bolt that doesnt show up details/ size
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