YZF-R125 Clutch change (also WR-125)
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- Опубликовано: 18 сен 2024
- Here doing a clutch replacement on an '08 Yamaha YZF-R125.
This video builds on the clutch change guide thread by azz2693 here:
www.r125forum....
Much of this process would be the same on other bikes with the same engine - e.g. MT-125, WR-125 etc. (Confirmed the same procedure for WR-125X, see comments)
#R125life #bikelife
For YZF-R125 owners looking for help go to www.r125forum....
Website (build projects):
northcust.co.u...
Patreon:
/ northcust
Twitter:
/ northcust
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@enwarnung - here's the page of the owner's manual where it says about checking the oil and not screwing the dipstick in: northcust.co.u...
OK - SUPER IMPORTANT - make sure you put the strainer in the right way up - although you can't see it in this video I'm pretty sure this is when I messed up and put it in upside down, at which point the strainer/mesh got squished flat and I think that was a major contributing factor in my recent engine failure. Thank you to @MrTamiyacowboy
for helping figure that out!! Legend :) See diagram on the link below if you're not sure: www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/en/yamaha-parts/2008-yzf-r125-motorcycles/oil-pump
NorthCust how can you see what the right way up is?
@@djleg3ndCore follow the link in my comment for the diagram - you can see that the little mesh "cup" needs to be sitting with the open side to the top - so the plastic ring (and open side) goes over the oil uptake hole (which you can feel if you stick your finger inthe oil drain hole and feel on the surface above ). The rest of the mesh cup sits inside the spring, so the spring holds the "cup" in place over the oil uptake hole. I hope that makes sense... if not email me at info@northamptoncustoms.co.uk and I'll draw you a little diagram :)
NorthCust thanks mate🍻
Thanks for the great guide, going to attempt it when the seal comes in.
Performed it today- very easy process if you take your time. Thanks again for the great guide!
I can confirm that this procedure is 100% the same for my 2008 Yamaha WR125X, or any motorcycle with a "YI-3 OHC" engine, in case somebody is wondering. :)
Awesome, thanks for letting us know :) I'll amend the title/description to reflect that.
They all have Minarelli 125cc LC engine
I realize Im pretty randomly asking but does anyone know a good website to watch new movies online ?
@Payton Rhys flixportal xD
@Bryce Devon Thanks, signed up and it seems to work =) I appreciate it!
Brilliant ending
Good video btw as I saw here guys the oil filter change I saw many other people doing the same its not recommended to put the new filter dry.
if you will spill some new oil on the new filter you will save time that the bike working without oil
That's a very good point! well noticed :)
Clever you and oil check is great
Really helpful video 👍🏻
awesome! thank you :)
Great vid,really helpful.
Thanks
awsome helpfull vid , worst music ever tho lol !
Thanks! :)
the bolts 9, 11 and 12 you dont need to remove other than that good video
9 is longer than 11 and 12, it goes through the case and threads in the engine at least on my 2015
hello, and in what gear did I have to loosen the screws and change the discs without putting it in neutral, right?
erm I think it was just in 1st or second. They're not torqued super tight so doesn't reallymatter which iirc
Im about to do clutch change as well but I have 2 questions... You ordered clutch lamellas and it came even with that few steel pieces?? Like you had there few brown lamellas and few grey ones so idk if I can just change only them brown and used old grey ones or gotta buy them grey ones as well new... And 2nd questions is Do you really need to change oil filter as well?? And replace it with new oil :) thx for answers
Ok so as far as I understand it the metal disks last longer than the brown bits but they do also wear eventually. The service manual specifies a thickness for the "disk pack" (page 5-43) which is the brown friction disks as well as the metal disks that they bite on.. and the set of both needs to be however many mm thick. If you put new brrown bits in and the pack is still too thin then your metal disks will probably also need replacing (or maybe you forgot one ;)).
re oil and filters...i would say in general only put nice new oil into an engine (any engine), don't take oil out and then have it sitting around potentially getting contaminated or bits in and then try to put it back in the engine, or you'll end up in a round of "f**k around and find out" - and spoiler it's expensive.
If you're not going to change the filter then at least leave the filter in place, don't take it out and allow particles in, but yes ideally also replace the filter.
I did the same but my clutch lever is not returning fully
there's a couple of places you can adjust the clutch play to get it right - there's a little bolt/pushrod in the end of the clutch casing (with a little locking nut) which lets you adjust where the clutch lever sits relative to the cable, and you can also adjust where the cable is positioned in relation to the engine casing, and hence how much of the cable is used (or the clutch position relative to the cable), and also you can adjust free play on the lever. See page 5-45 in the service manual for how to adjust the pushrod, the cable and lever ought to be self explanatory. Good luck and patience :-)
no mention of centre nut adjustment ? essential on a new clutch.
good point.. must have missed filming that bit.. I spent a while fiddling with that too. maybe time for an updated video.. hmm. That was the first time I'd done it and I've done lots of them by now.
Hey@@NorthCust could you explain how it works? How are the measurements. Good Video BTW ;D
Para una motor hispania mh7 LC sería el mismo procedimiento?
I think so, yes. (that's like LC135 etc too i think)
I did the same but my motorcycle won’t move! Any ideas?
might need a little more detail... does the engine go round but the clutch won't engage? the only thing to really adjust in there is the little pushrod in the end of the clutch. If the clutch won't disengage then perhaps that needs adjusting. email info@northcust.co.uk but it might take me a while to respond atm.
@@NorthCustmine wont move either, the motor just turns around even tho the plates are moving and done the adjustment that the manual says you need to do on the short push rod, but bike wont free up to let me move it just turns the motor around
Will the 2014-18 yzf r125 use the same clutch plates
no idea, sorry. I don't have a gen2 nor have I worked on one. Maybe have a look on somewhere like cmsnl.com and see if the part numbers are the same. It would be interesting to do a comparison.
Dont you need to screw the Oil inlet in to check the oil level?
actually no, you don't.I just checked the owners manual to be sure. I can't add a link here but have added a link to the relevant manual page at the end of the video description. However I didn't realise you're supposed to let it run before checking it. I normally check before I start it just so that I *know* there was oil in when I started it.
@@NorthCust Yea interesting, your right, I always checked if there was about the right amount, then I let it crank a little (so the oil filter fills up and then I take my exact measurement, interesting that you dont need to screw it in, I mean that's like .5cm differents which would result in seriously different results... I will check what you put in the description and in a month I will do my oil change and myb update if there is a significant differents thanks alot mate
@@enwarnung hey I used to do the same. On a car you click it in all the way afaik so I figured the same on bikes. I was talking to one of the guys at my local Yamaha dealer since it was a bit ticky at the time, and his first thing was check it's got enough oil because the difference between enough and not enough is only a cup or two. And if you're reading from a lower level then you might be thinking it's all good but really she's not happy. I think he mentioned about not screwing it in and then I went and checked in the manual and he was totally correct. gg Yamaha :)
@@NorthCust Yea, i was talking to a buddy of mine, he normally works on scooters, but he told me it just depends on brand and sometimes even model, i suppose with yamaha you dont screw it in and on other brands you do, a little confusing but lesson learned... have a good one
Where did you get your parts please
clutch cover gasket: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/192629584199
clutch plates: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400516530818
clutch springs: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400433444770
for anything else: www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/en/yamaha-parts/2008-yzf-r125-motorcycles/clutch
hope that helps :)
And you should have used gasket paste
I just looked and don't see anything in the service manual which says there should be gasket paste on it, and the original guide I followed also didn't mention it (iirc) so I didn't thnk to look for it tbh. I'm looking at the chart in the service manual on page 5-38 and it shows I missed some lithium soap grease off a couple of bits but nothing about gasket paste. In the little general intro about gaskets at the start of the manual there's also no mention of gasket paste as a general practice. Or have I missed something?
Which year is ur yzfr?
2008
and where to put the clutch fluid?
there is no clutch fluid.. it's a "wet clutch" so gets oil from the sump etc along with the other gearbox bits
Cazzz yours