Thanks, for your complement and stopping by. By coincidence I used this paint can on another project Yesterday. That's three coats on three projects so it is still going strong. Good paint. Cheers
Thanks for posting; this is a big help. I'm embarking on the same process currently with an old plane found in the attic. If you would care to share details about the electrolysis solution, would really appreciate it. Cheers
Hi Flow reader, I use "sodium carbonate". AKA "washing soda" and I get it from my local supermarket as "Lectric Inwash & Soaker Washing Soda". There are recipes regarding how much to use, sorry not sure and i don't think it really matters. I use no more than a cup in that big bucket and it lasts me for months and many jobs, sometime i have to top up the bucket with water, I believe it does eventually break down but by then there is iron elements in the water that do a similar job. (conduct the electricity) Don't use bicarb soda it is different, you can use salt in a pinch but do it outside because it makes poisonous chlorine gas so i would not. For the +ve anode only connect a piece of metal that rusts, ie, don't use stainless steel as it produces the same poison in the water from the movie Erin Brockovich "hexavalent chromium'. Don't let the copper from your wires touch the water or copper will contaminate the solution and coat your part. That's the details of my solution, because I did not use stainless, it basically ends up as just iron enrich water that i can pour on the grass or down the drain. I now have enough knowledge on this and get asked about it enough, that i will soon write a blog article or perhaps do a special video just on electrolysis. Thanks for asking,.
Good job. Just a tip, take the frog apart, remove the yoke & the threaded rod it makes painting a whole lot easier. Before you paint clean the frog & planes' contact surfaces as well the sole & sides, then mask. If you buy yourself a #3 scalpel handle & some #11 blades you will get super clean masking cuts. The paint I use is a Galmet epoxy Rust paint in low gloss, It's VERY hard wearing. I also use the Dupli-Color paint in the vintage motorcycle restorations I do, it's good, but not a patch on the Galmet epoxy. Having restored over 60 hand planes now I'm pretty sure I've got it down to an efficient process, you can see how I do it here: www.majorpanic.com/handplane_restor1.htm
Thanks heaps Mark. i did not know these parts came off and your tips are much appreciated, i will source some of that paint. And finally, thanks for your plane restore tutorial, that finished plane turned out amazing.
Matt, That engine paint is same as Krylon High Temp paint? Krylon is available to me locally. I seen another restorer do same. Only difference is he hit one coat of clear satin lacquer to finish. Nice vid mate.
Thanks J.D. I appreciate that. I have done some better plane restorations since then if you are interested. I recon Krylon probably would be ok, but you could be safer grabbing a generic tin of engine enamel as that should be available world-wide. all engine enamels should be tough but they also claim to be oil resistant which is handy. One tip - I would not put on a satin top coat as that paint will have different properties + you have to buy another tin that will just end up sitting on the shelf. If you want a satin finish, wait a couple days and then very gently rub with fine steel wool lubricated with oil to take off the gloss. You only want a subtle satin finish anyway to make it look like it is not brand new paint. cheers
@@Saw-IT Thank you Matt good point. I'm checking your other vids. I want to restore my grand dad's old planes to a good shop users, that also look nice as well. Thanks again
Good question thanks. This Particular plane is used regularly and gets oil on it and knocked around Etc and I have not seen any deterioration. The website has some generic paint application tips linked to this product that mention primer but this specific paint does not need it. I checked and the Instructions on the back of the can definitely don't mention using primer. Basically... degrease, dry, scuff up, then used the three coat method. All good. Cheers.
Thanks and you are definitely right. The original was painted ~1940 and it was treated badly, I am using hi tech engine enamel so am hoping the finish will last at least the same time but another 80 years is a big ask.
Table salt and vinegar in the electrolysis bath works way faster for me about 2-4 hours. Outside well ventilated of course offgasing is nothing to worry about just don't cover the bucket with a lid.
Cool tip. I had not thought about using vinegar except recently I got some nickel because I want to be able to electroplate lever caps and that solution uses vinegar. I have heard about table salt but it produces chlorine gas and as you say, you have to do it outside. I think I will keep my slower setup because I can leave it in the shed so I can do it over night. People think the electricity is dangerous, but the real danger is if you use stainless steel as the anode because it produces the same poising Erin Brockovich found hexavalent chromium. ☠️
I’m in process of restoring a Stanley “Defiance” No. 1244. Not one of their better planes….still, I want to do it right. Your masking tape process was meticulous, and I bet, rewarding when you removed it! I’m curious….did you consider a primer before the topcoat was applied? Regardless, brother….you did a nice job….and I found your video cathartically relaxing! Thank you for NOT adding stupid music! I liked the birds and background noises! Bravo-Zulu, brother, well done!
Hey thanks for the complement and for dropping by and sharing about your Defiance, i had to look it up and if I saw one today I would definitely pick it up. A lot of manufacturers made budget models of all tools to capture market share around that time and I recon they are still better than a lot of tools made today. They are the sort of tool that will hold its value if it has been preserved or restored to the appropriate state. I picked this paint because it is tough, oil resistant engine enamel and the instructions state two light coats and one heavy coat on bare metal and it ends up looking original. If you chip it or it starts to flake in 100 years, It will look like any other original plane (with no primer showing through)
@@Saw-IT oh! That’s a good thought…..on two fronts! Even the budget models of “yesteryear” are likely better quality than those of today! And your thought on not using primer is spot on…that is, if chipped through future use, it looks as it should look: quality used! Thank you again, for the video…and the comprehensive well thought out response! Take care, be well, brother.
I don't repaint unless it is really needed. When I do, I brush it on. I have much butter control over what service need to be painted and what doesn't. No masking required! It is my time efficient IMO.
Good pickup and thanks for dropping by. I recon you wouldn’t put paint on your own tools. Also I did a far bit of restoration when I originally got it. Not only was it rusty but pretty knocked up. One can only ponder on the history of a 100 year old tool. It was not engraved so it could just as likely have been from a carpentry workshop.
Great work Matt!.
Thanks, for your complement and stopping by. By coincidence I used this paint can on another project Yesterday. That's three coats on three projects so it is still going strong. Good paint. Cheers
6 minutes for taping.
Started falling asleep.
ASMR success :)
I need to put it at the start of a play list with all my boring videos. haha
Thanks for posting; this is a big help. I'm embarking on the same process currently with an old plane found in the attic. If you would care to share details about the electrolysis solution, would really appreciate it. Cheers
Hi Flow reader, I use "sodium carbonate". AKA "washing soda" and I get it from my local supermarket as "Lectric Inwash & Soaker Washing Soda". There are recipes regarding how much to use, sorry not sure and i don't think it really matters. I use no more than a cup in that big bucket and it lasts me for months and many jobs, sometime i have to top up the bucket with water, I believe it does eventually break down but by then there is iron elements in the water that do a similar job. (conduct the electricity) Don't use bicarb soda it is different, you can use salt in a pinch but do it outside because it makes poisonous chlorine gas so i would not. For the +ve anode only connect a piece of metal that rusts, ie, don't use stainless steel as it produces the same poison in the water from the movie Erin Brockovich "hexavalent chromium'. Don't let the copper from your wires touch the water or copper will contaminate the solution and coat your part. That's the details of my solution, because I did not use stainless, it basically ends up as just iron enrich water that i can pour on the grass or down the drain. I now have enough knowledge on this and get asked about it enough, that i will soon write a blog article or perhaps do a special video just on electrolysis. Thanks for asking,.
Good job.
Just a tip, take the frog apart, remove the yoke & the threaded rod it makes painting a whole lot easier.
Before you paint clean the frog & planes' contact surfaces as well the sole & sides, then mask.
If you buy yourself a #3 scalpel handle & some #11 blades you will get super clean masking cuts.
The paint I use is a Galmet epoxy Rust paint in low gloss, It's VERY hard wearing. I also use the Dupli-Color paint in the vintage motorcycle restorations I do, it's good, but not a patch on the Galmet epoxy.
Having restored over 60 hand planes now I'm pretty sure I've got it down to an efficient process, you can see how I do it here: www.majorpanic.com/handplane_restor1.htm
Thanks heaps Mark. i did not know these parts came off and your tips are much appreciated, i will source some of that paint. And finally, thanks for your plane restore tutorial, that finished plane turned out amazing.
Matt,
That engine paint is same as Krylon High Temp paint? Krylon is available to me locally. I seen another restorer do same. Only difference is he hit one coat of clear satin lacquer to finish. Nice vid mate.
Thanks J.D. I appreciate that. I have done some better plane restorations since then if you are interested. I recon Krylon probably would be ok, but you could be safer grabbing a generic tin of engine enamel as that should be available world-wide. all engine enamels should be tough but they also claim to be oil resistant which is handy. One tip - I would not put on a satin top coat as that paint will have different properties + you have to buy another tin that will just end up sitting on the shelf. If you want a satin finish, wait a couple days and then very gently rub with fine steel wool lubricated with oil to take off the gloss. You only want a subtle satin finish anyway to make it look like it is not brand new paint. cheers
@@Saw-IT Thank you Matt good point. I'm checking your other vids. I want to restore my grand dad's old planes to a good shop users, that also look nice as well. Thanks again
@@j.d.1488 it is so satisfying in the end.
I used a couple of laquer coats on top of the four coats of black engine paint on a #289. Perfect!
Great work love your videos
Thanks Giacomo, and thanks for your your help.
Great job! I don't believe in making japanning. This is what I do, and works great for restoring planes
Thanks heaps John, I am pretty sure the original finish on this plane was paint which makes me feel better about it too.
How’s it holding up? Is a primer not needed for this paint? I have the same stuff but no primer
Good question thanks.
This Particular plane is used regularly and gets oil on it and knocked around Etc and I have not seen any deterioration.
The website has some generic paint application tips linked to this product that mention primer but this specific paint does not need it.
I checked and the Instructions on the back of the can definitely don't mention using primer. Basically... degrease, dry, scuff up, then used the three coat method.
All good. Cheers.
Excellent. Certainly won't last like the original finish, but better than bare steel.
Thanks and you are definitely right. The original was painted ~1940 and it was treated badly, I am using hi tech engine enamel so am hoping the finish will last at least the same time but another 80 years is a big ask.
Table salt and vinegar in the electrolysis bath works way faster for me about 2-4 hours. Outside well ventilated of course offgasing is nothing to worry about just don't cover the bucket with a lid.
Cool tip. I had not thought about using vinegar except recently I got some nickel because I want to be able to electroplate lever caps and that solution uses vinegar. I have heard about table salt but it produces chlorine gas and as you say, you have to do it outside. I think I will keep my slower setup because I can leave it in the shed so I can do it over night. People think the electricity is dangerous, but the real danger is if you use stainless steel as the anode because it produces the same poising Erin Brockovich found hexavalent chromium. ☠️
I’m in process of restoring a Stanley “Defiance” No. 1244. Not one of their better planes….still, I want to do it right. Your masking tape process was meticulous, and I bet, rewarding when you removed it! I’m curious….did you consider a primer before the topcoat was applied? Regardless, brother….you did a nice job….and I found your video cathartically relaxing! Thank you for NOT adding stupid music! I liked the birds and background noises! Bravo-Zulu, brother, well done!
Hey thanks for the complement and for dropping by and sharing about your Defiance, i had to look it up and if I saw one today I would definitely pick it up. A lot of manufacturers made budget models of all tools to capture market share around that time and I recon they are still better than a lot of tools made today. They are the sort of tool that will hold its value if it has been preserved or restored to the appropriate state. I picked this paint because it is tough, oil resistant engine enamel and the instructions state two light coats and one heavy coat on bare metal and it ends up looking original. If you chip it or it starts to flake in 100 years, It will look like any other original plane (with no primer showing through)
@@Saw-IT oh! That’s a good thought…..on two fronts! Even the budget models of “yesteryear” are likely better quality than those of today! And your thought on not using primer is spot on…that is, if chipped through future use, it looks as it should look: quality used! Thank you again, for the video…and the comprehensive well thought out response! Take care, be well, brother.
I don't repaint unless it is really needed. When I do, I brush it on. I have much butter control over what service need to be painted and what doesn't. No masking required! It is my time efficient IMO.
Hey good tip HHH. That is probably how they did it in the old days. I will get some paint to experiment with.
what made you think that it was owned by a school i thought that to (ovbs ot was the orange paint)
Good pickup and thanks for dropping by. I recon you wouldn’t put paint on your own tools. Also I did a far bit of restoration when I originally got it. Not only was it rusty but pretty knocked up. One can only ponder on the history of a 100 year old tool. It was not engraved so it could just as likely have been from a carpentry workshop.
TL;DR: high temp spray paint