Here's why you shouldn't buy a cheap Range Rover...
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- Опубликовано: 30 апр 2022
- Sadly, buying the cheapest V8 Range Rover in the country as I did with this one last year has finally caught up with me...
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It’s got half a tank of petrol in it. More than enough reason to get the repairs done ☑️
Mines got a full tank of petrol AND 80 litres of LPG so it's worth a bloody fortune, pity the starter motor gave up the ghost yesterday, ( it's been playing up for a while) went to local Land Rover dealership which is less than half a mile away to get quote for new starter fitted. Hang on to you're hats £320.75 for starter plus vat 2 and a half hours labour £687.75 equals £1008.5 plus VAT @ 20%. Grand total equals £1210.20. For a fucking starter motor!! Incidentally the hourly rate of £275.00 plus VAT which equals £330.00 per hour!! I'm going to name and shame because I would never ever entertain paying that sort of hourly rate because I know none of their technicians earn anywhere near 50 grand a year. If they did, and did a good job then I might if I had money to burn pay £330 an hour but realistically the dealer stealers are taking the fucking piss. So it's GRANGE Land Rover at SOUTH WOODFORD LONDON E18.( the workshops are in Hainault industrial estate, Roebuck Road Hainault Ilford Essex. )
Hard luck Joel, sadly the L322 is known for bad rot in the sills, rear arches and subframes. People can and do bring them back - and if the car is as much of a peach as you reckon, it's probably worth it. A bit like with my new P38 project, nice ones in good colour combinations will become rarer and more desirable over time. While it might not make perfect financial sense to get it welded now, it's always sad to see one of these glorious machines broken up for parts and scrapped.
The guys at Savage Rebuilds would sort that out and use it for RUclips content. Check them out Joel.
No they wouldn't lol
@@LewWise87 it would make great content for them!
Latest video from Salvage Rebuilds, they bought a Range Rover (Sport) !!
I’ve had my 2002 L322 since new , 218k all done by me , 1 new recon gearbox at 86k , I service it twice a year and fix things as they happen. Don’t get me wrong lots of little things don’t work but nothing I can’t live with. I will never sell it , I absolutely love it as my daily beater . I drive it to Spain every year 3000k there and back never lets me down. I think because I’ve had it since new and I love it so much I don’t mind spending money on it but I have the same rust starting on mine also but I will address it. I have other cars but my L322 has a special place in my heart
Does your car have the 4.4 V8 M62 TU B44 or the M57 3.0 diesel?
3 litre Diesel engine , strong as an ox , bit loud in the morning if I’m honest 😂
I'm exactly the same with my Jag.
These aren't Toyota's they need little fixes regularly & preventative maintenance with regular servicing.
The issue is-people buy these luxury vehicles & expect to run them without fail like you might a Nissan & they get complacent.
I hope the l322 lasts you many more years!
Joel I would suggest you remove the arch liner and cill covers on your other Range Rover and treat any signs of rust or it too will end up the same , with the doors shut arch liners and cill covers in place you can’t see what’s happening until it’s too late.
All down the cill are holes so you can inject rust prevention products we use black or clear waxoyl mixed with hydraulic oil to seep into spot welded seems , while your at it do the same to front and rear subframes we have seen these rust out as well.
As goes for your current rust issue it is repairable (we have one to do at the moment both sides) repair panels can be fabricated and welded in place but obviously at a cost, the repair pieces behind are easier but the arch can be cut further up off a donor car and welded into place accordingly, all sounds easy if you have the facility if not all comes down to money .
I wish you well and good luck 👍
Hi Joel one of the owners on the l322 group got his arches professionally done at MG coach works Macclesfield for 500 pounds both sides and done an excellent job in the photos
Seeing as your car was in the garage and had a total going over last year I can't believe they didn't pick this up as it's the place they always go, and the hole you show in the video is only the tip of what's actually lurking underneath the plastic side skirt.
I had exactly the same on my L322 4.4 V8 (2004) at the end of last year. Both side sills were completly rotten like yours and needed to be sorted, but I watched eBay for a couple of weeks to see if any cars were breaking and managed to get myself some rust free sills cut out and sent to me on a pallet for £200, then a local welder sorted both sides for an extra £150. It'll be fine.
Exactly the same here, mine rusted through from the inside out. In December I had my gearbox done on an apparently solid car, four months later I had gaping holes in both sills.
Hoping to find some replacement sides because I've been quoted thousands in welding otherwise.
It went to a land rover specialist too from memory. Think I'd avoid the specific one Joel went to as I think he had brake failure soon after it going in
I feel your pain. I have lost so many cars due to similar circumstances which I would of kept if I could. Your RR is worth saving and I only wish I could cut, shape and weld metal to repair the corrosion damage.
Quick note for you as you may already be aware , when you have a dead battery and restart and the air suspension is inactive ,turn the steering wheel from full lock to lock , also don't leave it to long with a flat battery as it will default into transport mode and needs a very good diagnostics to get it out again.
My friends air suspension went on his Westminster . He bought the sensors but it needed calibrating . My other friend charged him a tenner to do it on his computer. It’s who you know 👍 ( ps if yours ever went I’d hook you up )
In New Zealand we have the same sort of test requirements called a Warrant of Fitness (WoF). The have got very strict on rust and corrosion in recent years making alot of otherwise good cars not economical to repair. Also the interpretation of the rules between inspectors varies alot which can be very frustrating.
That's pretty minor as rust in that area goes. I did mine last year before it's test. It took me a few hours are my MIG welding skills wouldn't be the best, but essentially it cost me nothing as I had some metal and paint. Pretty sure repair sections are available which would make the repair even neater. Just don't paint the area until the tester has seen it.
It’s a monocoque, it doesn’t have a separate chassis.
The corrosion is in the body structure but will likely be within 30cm of the seatbelt mounts.
I’d guess at a few hundred for welding, a ton for the cv boot and the mirror repair will depend on what is actually broken.
If you’re not fussed about the cosmetics a couple of screws and cheap brackets may sort it.
Incorrect it has a separate shassy hench why when they change a gearbox they lift the body off
Wrong! It’s a separate chassis and body as they all are from Land Rover up until the L405 Fourth Generation Range Rover which is a unibody/monocoque body 😎
Joel, mate, absolutely gutted for you. You've got to keep the old girl and sort her out just for memory's sake if nothing else. I've got exactly the same problems with mine (just done the 4 tyres and can highly recommend Davanti tyres they are cheap but low on noise, good holding of the road no real complaints at all to be fair. That would help keep the costs down a bit) I have the same holes on my arch and sills they literally fell out when closing the door 🤣 MOT is next month so I'm working on the old adage of it might cost 1-2k to fix but a new car will cost you 5k minimum. I'm doing mine as I don't really have the grand to fix these last bits but I definitely don't have 5k+ for a newer one. 👍 Hope you get her sorted and best advice is to run her every few days a few miles round the block at least to get her warm, save the battery gremlins at least 👍 Good luck with her 👊
I'm not sure if the body and chassis is separate on these I know some are designed to literally lift the body away and leave the running gear and chassis etc behind. Which would mean is it structural at that point.
Alternatively you could get a downer car or look for the body section on a good one and have it cut out and then welded in to replace that section.
Your acting like the rust appeared overnight.
Definitely looks worth saving. Would cost far less than £2k if you shop around properly
The fail list doesn't seem too bad, I'm sure you'd get that welding done for an awful lot less than £1,000. Doesn't need to look factory, just needs to be solid.
That rust hole is a common problem. Wheel arch is not protected from wheel spray and the drain pipe for the un roof comes out in the same place. These areas are well known for rust.... so replacement parts and body work shops are easily able to look after this issue. The other items are just wear and tear. You cannot kill this beauty of a car. Alternatively, keep it as an Off Roader and do the full deep water kit.
Well it's 2k spent over the remaining life expectancy of the car. So if you can keep it for another 5 years it's only £400/year. So not ultra bad.
Very common problem with the L322, you can get a repair panel kit now for it though. When you remove the plastic cover you will see how much worse it is....
I had that same engine in my 1999 BMW E39 540i which I bought used back in late 2003, It is the "TU" M62 motor same as in your Range Rover, It was a good engine when the car was newer but getting to 14 years old and in late 2013 it was time to abandon ship ! as the M62 4.4 was eating me out of house and home and it developed massive misfires when warm from bad/faulty coil packs, but the last straw was the "Trans failsafe prog" which kept coming up on the dash and putting the car in limp mode where the car only takes off in 4th or 5th gear ! making it really slow off the line... before I got rid of it, I was changing one of the rear tires when the jacking point just went through and collapsed scaring me out of my skin !! - The BMW E39 is still regarded as one of the best looking BMW's of all time but sadly it was built from very poor metal and not rustproofed enough - Your L322 is sadly a BMW product as it was from the era when BMW owned Land Rover, hence the same 4.4 M62 TU powerplant was used, but unfortunately also the same metal as the BMW's of that era which seemed to have rust issues... I say, your Range Rover is worth saving and you should keep it, save up and work on bringing it up to scratch and enjoy it - Good luck man 👍
The morale of this story is get the the newer RR checked out for rust then get the whole car professionally treated(doesn’t cost as much as you think).
Also the old one probably wouldn’t cost to much to repair probably sub £1000 both sides,definitely worth saving.
You have the bug as well !
I believe your pretty local to me, Every fancy a go in a 4.2 supercharged l322 (straight piped) then let me know. You’ll love it 😆
I think you know the answer to what you're going/needing to do, and that is book it in for some metal surgery and keep it going. If something has sentimental value, it's hard to let go of it, especially for the reasons you've described. It's part of yours and Katy's life, that alone is a worthy reason to keep it going, it's like a member of the family.
That would take no effort to cut out and weld a new bit in..
I'm a fab/welder by trade not a backstreet garage so get it sorted and it's worth saving and enjoy it.
I would not even be worried about those things.
Cleaning the interior is a bigger job than fixing that rust. So many options to do the rust. I would probably bend up a number of small strips and stitch them in with a MIG the fill over it. What I would not do is plate it over as many MOT garages do.
As for the CV boot it depends on what's stuck and rusted solid.
As an added bonus, those dash pixels are possible to fix. I fixed mine on my BMW 10 years ago with an eBay ribbon, and they are still good. In fact, they have now lasted longer than the original BMW ribbon.
Here the United States some states require a yearly inspection (Tennessee does not) on all vehicles and I live in one of the hardest states for inspection besides California.... Virginia. Moving on to my point... I have seen absolute rust buckets pass inspection. Trucks with so much rust that the actual frame itself is has become a V shape because its cracking in the middle of the truck but they have a shiny new inspection sticker. It really bothers me that the UK can look at that L322 in such good condition and just fail it for that. I really think they will be making things harder on you all with the MOT's just to start getting vehicles like this off the road as a secret agenda against fuel powered cars.
As someone who has been through something similar. Why not pay a small monthly fee to store the car somewhere inside where it is out of harms way and dry until you see how your finances pan out. You might hit pay-dirt with a video soon that goes viral, then you can wheel it out of storage and get it sorted. Your viewers will remember it as an old friend too so it would be a double win. At that age of RR, you are way past the value being relevant now. If you sell it now, you loose all that cash you have put into it, if you store it, you are just resting your investment for a while. So if it has sentimental value, def dry store it somewhere for now, give yourself 6 months to see if anything has changed in your life financially, then you can review it again. I have learned this the hard way. Good luck with whatever you decide.
Get it fixed, its not that bad. Mines starting in the same spot. Replacement arches are only 70 quid or so, and theres bound to be someone who will do some welding for you. Dont give up on her just yet.
I guess it comes down to does you heart rule your head or vice-versa? The thing is even if you have the repairs done now there wil probably be other parts of the body that will have the same rust issues in the future.
I was once in same situation as you and then found a guy in Bradford who sorted it out for me so I would suggest you contact him I can give you his details
Ah it’s a horrible feeling when you’re in this situation. Had something similar with my old z4 which I adored.
Could you find another RUclipsr to collaborate with who could fix it for content? Would the army be able to do anything with it? Or off road driving schools?
Hi Joel. Gutted for you but its unfortunately very common for the L322 to go there. If you would like to sell the car don't hesitate to drop me a message I would be putting it back on the road not breaking it for spares.
I think broken timing chain guides and strange electrical issues are a far more major concern than a bit or rust.
You can’t keep it on the road with no MOT and bald tyres regardless. You’ll end up with points and a fine if you don’t get it shifted.
I am a LR RR Jag workshop in qld Australia. That rust is really not that bad. New components are not expensive or cut the section out of a donor wrecked 322. Surely someone can help out with the fab labour these cars are just too lovely to scap.
That rust really isn't bad. You just need that panel section cutting off a breaker and welding on and painting. Few hundred quid a most .
Welding work is easy and not that expensive, the problem isn't the hole you showed the the rot underneath on the sill is, that is structural, can either cut out the rot and plate for a quick cheap fix or do it properly and replace the sill. It gets expensive when you decide if you want to replace the rear arch .
Just so you know the car being on the road while it is sorned is illegal and it will get towed and crushed if you don't pay the fine they slap you with.
This may be a silly question but if this specific vehicle has that much sentimental value, why not sell the other one and use the proceeds to do the necessary work on this one? Shop around for quotes for the welding work, get the other bits done and then… have a full anti rust treatment done. Make sure it’s the treatment that converts existing rust as well as protecting from further rust. My 2002 L322 (TD6) in Latvia gets treated every year by “KROWN” using their patented T40 compound. They will pump the stuff into every cavity, even the doors, as well as coating the whole underside, and the beauty of T40 is that its waxy oily consistency causes it to continue to seep further and deeper for some time after treatment. They recommend the full treatment annually for the first couple of years depending on the condition of the vehicle, to build up the protection, then it can alternate between light and full treatments, and of course they steam clean it before each treatment to remove any accumulation of salt etc. KROWN is Canadian so designed for the ravages of a severe climate, and Latvia in winter is similar. KROWN has a branch in U.K., near Birmingham (I had my Land Cruiser done there for around £350.) The chassis on my L322 in Latvia was in a bit of a state before I did it, now it’s as clean as a whistle. And yes they also treat that weak spot behind the “lip” inside the wheel ar which is notorious for trapping moisture. Good luck with the old girl, I know how I’d feel having had mine for 12 years and given it a new lease of life (replacement gearbox, turbocharger, fuel pump, air suspension, brake pipe, injector, wiper motor, windscreen, handbrake assembly, discs all round, &c &c) but it’s not always about cost vs resale value, the car’s real worth is what it means to you personally 👍
That reminds me, I was recently in the states for a month and did 6000 miles all told including a road trip from Wisconsin to Florida via a direct route, then back to Wisconsin via South Carolina, Virginia, West Virginia and another number of states and we clocked up about 3500 miles on that trip and saw some real pieces of shit on the road. One vehicle in particular springs to mind and I took pictures of it as I was a passenger at the time you could see right through the sills ( rocker panels) holes through structural areas I could not believe how bad it was, and there's hillbilly Bob bowling along without a care in the world!
Such a shame man. I had this with one of my (many) BMWs a beautiful 2000 540i. Had so much wrong with it that it couldn't be saved without it being completely ridiculous cost wise. I've had all sorts of cars including a few year old A45 amg, had civics other BMWs but like you said with these range rovers. I keep coming back to E39 and E46 BMWs, had many of them, they aren't the cheapest t run or to keep going and sometimes I think for god's sake I'm selling it, but then it takes one drive and I'm the same as you. I wouldn't want to be driving anything else, currently got a 2004 330ci coupe with just 100k on it, cost me £7k a year ago so not cheap for an E46 and hasn't been totally problem free but it's all about the love I just love those cars.
The way its worded is standard mate, it can be welded and then it will have its structural strength again
PS should the car not be off the road (i.e. on your drive) if it has no MoT?
I think your right, it has to be off a public road / highway, not dumped around the corner.
Give the lad a break he’s not just dumped it he’s upset understandably and in a predicament it’s not on the main road and it’s not doing any harm where it is
Aj is right though. All it would take is a nasty neighbour to report it and Joels world of pain would become much worse.
It may be on a private road.... needs to be off the highway if SORN has been declared too
@@pug2052 totally agree, rust just doesn’t happen overnight. It’s a slow process, you know it’s coming, these old LR’s need a bit of attention. Just try and do as much as possible as you can, if your skills aren’t up their, jump on some LR forums, there’s heaps of folk out there giving good advice, big leaning curve, but once you know it, it gets better next time.
A farmer could buy it? Or someone with a big estate so it could be driven off road and a MOT woudn't be needed? Or could be loaned to them for a while until you have space for it back at yours
A little solar battery tender on the roof would keep it charged and not be very noticeable
I doubt that the corner of the sill and door shut is a major structural point and suspect that there must be more widespread rust underneath. If the sills need replacing it's worth trying specialist's and older family owned garages with experienced welders who won't charge the earth. We struck lucky a few years ago when one of my daughters car failed due to rusty sills. Local garage welded in 2 new sills for a fraction of the cost a local chain of garages wanted for the same work
I had the arch done on my l322 recently. £250
Sorry to hear that, have you considered selling it for parts on Ebay?
Hey Joel just an update I've just got a quote for my arches and it will be £150 for arch replacements on eBay and £500 for cutting out old welding in new and painting. So Def worth doing to yours an keep her going 👍
I have seen much worse rust on cars where I live. The vehicle inspection there seems to be very strict about it.
Great video Joel didn't know the rr had central ignition just like my smart car and 7 series
You can buy rear inner arch panels online as I was looking for mine but after getting a body shop to investigate it was false economy repairing it for me sadly so sold it but they said it can be done 👍
I’m getting my 2007 rear arches done at a Land Rover family company near Macclesfield.
I feel you dude! It’s not the same but I recently sold my beloved Audi TT.. hardest decision I’ve had to make recently! IMO, sell it to someone who would spend the time to repair! I like the thought of meeting them for the handover! Also; Maybe speak to another RUclipsr to get a collab going!?
Hi Joel, how about an engine swop into you diesel i know there will be parts issues but how nice to keep your beloved petrol v8 !!!
It’s a good vehicle and can be sold as a farm truck. Or…Sell it as a “mechanic’s special” and/or Parts car
Definitely fix it and also please put the front passenger headrest the right way around.. it was bugging me the whole video 😂
Teach your self to weld mighty be the answer because the newer range will need welding at some point good luck with it. Love your videos
It is a fine car, park it up until you have some more money in the budget. Meanwhile shop around for parts sand prices for welding. Check the arches on your newer car for rust, preventative action now could save you long term
You can get the welding done for far less if you like it that much. You can’t leave it in the street without an MOT. If it is insured, it won’t be valid plus it needs to be taxed.
I live in the countryside and have been driving my similar car for quite a few years with no MOT. I have it insured and would not mind paying the tax but obviously can't without the MOT. The only problem is the trivial effing little sensors all over it for airbags etc etc that mean very little, but no warning lights must show. Garages don't know how to fix the warnings, so I plan my routes carefully, avoiding cameras and main roads etc and drive very carefully. Perhaps you could do the same.
eBay it, it's the only option. You need to pull the sill covers and rear wheel arch liners on the TDV8 , or you'll be in the same position.
Get the rangei welded and through an mot then sell it. You have plenty to keep you going with the other one👍
Its not terminal some welding and a few bits its what you would expect from a car of about that age its more the fuel price that will make it terminal nowadays
That engine has plenty of life in it. Error codes are a minor inconvenience. Definitely save it. You can get the rust fixed for under 1000 with some looking around. Put some cheaper part worn tires on it (for time being) and within 1k you can save it. I think £1000 to get more life out of it is definitely worth it!
Just a quick thought could you try to do any more collabs but with a bigger RUclips channel. If it was something like potentially getting on carwow doing a drag race in something or being part of a challenge on car throttle maybe with one of your cars. Eg can you get round (their track can’t remember the exact name) faster than you’re Porsche for the same money it cost (worded better obviously because that barely makes sense). Just something like that to maybe gain some traction and bring some new people to the channel which could hopefully raise some funds? Probably not a solution but just thought I’d throw it out there
I’m after a project like that I’d love it and get my mates to help me do it as well
Wouldn't think that would be difficult to weld a bit in, I'm sure if you don't drive it for a day, you will save enough on petrol to pay for the welding.
Hey Joel! Just watched your video now. Have you made a decision on what your going to do with it?
Hi Joel first thanks for the content it’s down to your heart ruling your brain I have a RRS 2013 HSE 3.0 so understand your love of the Range Rover. Yes it requires welding what about the garage you linked up with or even learn to weld yourself and get a welder.I got a welder 5 months ago and learnt along the way spent about £400 £500 in total welder and accessories.Like a women you know you would be better off at times without one lol your stress levels would be lower but hey when does love in your case love of your RR ever make sense lol save your RR and enjoy it like a dog a RR is for life to a drug lol .Congrats on your recent engagement can’t think of a better present to you both to save the one you love lol 😆
Anyone know the exact reason these rust so much? Is it a paint / material issue? There's plenty of cars from this year that don't rust whatsoever, it's always made me curious as to why these do
Yeah I've often wondered this. The P38 generation Range Rover barely corroded at all. Mines from 1995 and is fresh as a daisy underneath, with no specific care. Why do the L322s rot like this?
@@benjones1917 well mercedes are famous for having their quality and reliability drop in the 90s and 2000s as they tried to cut corners on costs, like using cheaper material's etc. Mercedes from the 80s are generally some of the best mercs ever made.
In the case of your P38, it probably doesn't rust because it has better quality sills. JLR probably tried to skimp out when the L322 came along. Only a guess.
I’m rather older than most who watch this channel and I used to analyse the motor companies for a living. I was fortunate enough to meet the senior management at BMW who owned Rover and LandRover from 1994 to2000 something that ultimately cost Bernd Pischeyereider
It’s the same as my old D1 3.9efi V8 same place, water/mud traps add in winter salt poor under-seal, the rest is history.
because there shite
I want it love those old Range Rovers... what is the price?
I know how expensive welding is because i just got a full chassis re-weld and uk price was close to 3000
that hole u do with expanding foam after u cut nicely and put filler and paint job done :)
What about an prize draw for the car? At £5 or £10 per ticket you might get a lot of takers
You could use this to raise the funds to do the work and get the car back in the road. The lucky winner will then get a Range Rover with the work done, a new 12 month MOT and you’ll recover some (hopefully all) of what you’ve put into it. You’ll also feel good about keeping it from the breakers yard.
I miss my l322. I’m currently stuck with a Freelander but miss my l322 so much. Like this one I couldn’t at the time afford to repair it. But they’re too expensive to buy now even as spares and repairs, I’d quite happily take on a project. Hence the Freelander
Get an estimate to have rust sorted
I have a 2002 L322 & have had those areas done both sides
You may have left it too long ,but it is a common area for rust
Joel, any body specialist would sort it out no problem. For heavens sake don't scrap it, that would be sacrilege!
£1000 seems pricey for one side mate, even if it’s rotten behind all the trim. If it’s both sills and your friend has looked then maybe… hopefully someone will recommend a good welder or bodgershop so you can get it done on the cheap (and get it off for your road for a few weeks whilst they do it!)
I just bought a 4.4 HSE 2005 for 500 bucks, runs awesome but won't move in drive, mine has a touch of surface rust in the same spot, just buy some rocker panels and weld them in
Can't you weld a piece of metal on both sides.i am in the US and the MOT there is very stringent and I thought US is bad.
Maybe someone alresdy said it,but that hole you see is just the part of the rust damage that pops above the sill cover. If you look under the cover and underneat the car the hole will be MUCH bigger.
It can be fixed tho,it just needs welding. Mind you,there are NO repair sections for the sills of a L322 atm. D3 and RRS sill rep.secrions are available. If the car otherwise is mind,maybe getting it fixed is a better idea. If you sell it,it'll be worth much more with a MOT.
And the rest of the MOT Fail list was pretty easy to fix tbh.
We see this a lot at my work sadly. The joys of owning a BMW with a LR badge.
Funny thing is,we never had a P38 with body rot in the shop before despite the fact we still see them regulary.
Good luck,mate👍
So what are you getting next seeing that now both of the range rovers are up for sale?
Can’t see the problem..when you drive a vehicle of this age you must expect rust like this..it hasn’t suddenly appeared must of been there when purchased..if it drives as well as you say well worth spending a few quid on repairs…why would you take a car for an MOT with dodgy tyres…
By a repair panel under 50 at a guess and find mobile welder . Then prime and paint with rattle can and seam seal .if I had my mini snap on welder would have come over to do it. I'm sure if you ring round someone will do it cheap
Get it sorted Bud 👍👍Super looking Range Rover 😀😀Love the colour ❤️😀
Love these range rovers hope to have the money for one at some point but as per alfas my 159 always has problems
Was the last mot bent Because that should’ve came up as a major advisory on the last MOT that’s over three years Cancer there
That is a shame. It is also a pretty easy repair. It is nuts that a car that new has rust like that. That is worse than the rust on my 1990 Volvo 240DL estate. Thing is, the Volvo had been through 32 Ontario, Canada winters. The last 7 in Central Ontario, where a deadly mixture of sand and salt is used on the road. And before anyone thinks Arthur has led a pampered life, he is at 614,000 kilometers, or about 387,000 miles.
That's totally fixable. Rover probably do a repair section for it..or get one from breakers yard.
Any rust can be repaired. Given what you have spent on it, I'm sure it's worth it.
My “fresh from the factory” Range Rover broke down on the way to being delivered!
Bad news indeed, but I am sure a bit of welding is worth considering your love of the car. Also I am surprised it wasnt mentioned on the previous MOT??
Real shame. I'd get it welded up. I've done 130k miles in my 2010 TDV8. Still drives like new. Will get it rustproofed.
Get it welded , job done and also take it somewhere else that doesn’t pick up on slightly loose mirrors , some mot testers are bell ends
Looks like an easy one to get to too
You need second opinion, the previous mot was clean some it’s seems likely it was dodgy as that should never have zero advisories! Have known some garage make a massive amount of work but it’s clearly an old range with some issues and rust! Also no. Mot means off the road not kept in the street.
About a day's work at a pro fabrication shop to sort that out neatly. 350 quid should see the grot sorted. 👍
its a sad day, i've been watching the l322 journey since you bought your cheap one. truly a sad day.
You've probably got a set of rust free arches on the tdv8... Cut them out of there and put them on??