How High Should Wires Run Through a Wall
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 29 июн 2024
- PORTER-CABLE Cordless Drill: amzn.to/3ahJycF
Milwaukee Measuring Tape: amzn.to/3RdFSJy
↓↓↓ My Favorite Tool ↓↓↓
amzn.to/3NIFJuO
Tools We Recommend: www.amazon.com/shop/benjamins...
Here we go over the pros and cons of the height that you should pull wires through the walls during the rough in. Let me know in the comments below if you have any suggestions regarding this!
Thanks for watching and subscribing! As an Amazon affiliate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for your support!
0:00 - Height Of Wires In Wall Intro
0:15 - Code Requirements For Wire Height
0:36 - Ben's Requirements For Wire Height
2:16 - Easy Hole Drilling Tip
2:41 - SUBSCRIBE!!!
Blessings,
Ben
![Gunna - back in the a [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/oBrbejOHjLw/mqdefault.jpg)
I saw somewhere on youtube that if you want to know how to do something best, make a video of doing it one way then go to the comment section for how to do it better.
Seems the general consensus is 24-26 inch for running wire through studs for optimal height avoiding counter/cabinet installs making sure to drill 5/8 holes in the center so you dont run too wide and make it no longer structural and you can still avoid installing nail plates.
The exception is for walls in residential construction that wont have drywall added, run the romex in the attic and drop vertically to meet the most strict codes.
Learned all that reading comments rather than the video
If you set your lightswitches 48.5 inches from the ceiling, you guarantee an easier drywall install and plugs should be set to the height of an eastwing hammer from the floor.
That Estwing not Eastwing But who cares?
I always bring my feed and feeder in bottom of switch boxes. Lighting tails and travelers out the top
Robert Pierce - Great summary... Thanks! Nowadays I pause the video before it even starts and scan the commments for tips and to determine if the video is worth a watch.
Tom Kristman
Me too, it’s cleaner
M. McDonald 1 month ago, "Robert Pierce - Great summary... Thanks! Nowadays I pause the video before it even starts ...." Wow. There's a precocious insight!!! Thanks.
thigh high is where we drill. have to stay efficient and trying to mark your wire height any other way then eye balling it is going to make for a very long day. ive been a full time electrician for 12 years now and been working with the same crew for the past 5 years. we rough in between 5-8 houses a week from 1400 square foot ranches to 5000 share foot 2 stories on basements. we never mark our holes when we go to drill. we have a yard stick cut down to 42 inches for switches and counter outlets and all our hammers are cut to 13 inches for a quick measurement to the bottom of plugs. time is money and even just eyeballing the holes the quality of work is still top notch. but for someone doing it them selves at home for the first time, this is a great video to reference on. only thing I have to point out is to take into consideration the staples you are using. I noticed you used a whits single wire staple to staple a double wire which around here if the inspector saw that he would turn down the house. we have white staples for single wires, tan staples for double wires, and grey staples for triple wires.
Cut a board for height, some of us old guys used story boards to locate outlet boxes, wiring, switch boxes and even plumbing lines.
@raljame you beat me to it lol - my thoughts exactly - when I did apartments and tract houses in the 90s that's exactly what we did - one story pole for the entire project keeps everything uniform.
Great comment 👍one old guy to another 🧓
As a handyman reading this, I'm so glad you shared as I wouldn't have thought of it but it'll be so useful for my current project. Thank you
Another good well made video. I love clean framing and electrical work.
It's a question of material expense/waste!
There are always many more receptacles than switches. Therefore, if you install your run parallel to the floor at 24" (plus or minus) you will use less material (wire) than trying to "split the difference" (roughly 30") between the receptacles and switches. Installing the wire at 30" actually wastes 12" of wire for EVERY receptacle in the building. That can easily add up to 50' or more per house.
Agreed! 24" is better in that regard. Thanks for sharing your experience!
Clean, clear and concise. Great video.
You packed a lot of awesome tips into those 3 minutes! Good job!
I love you videos. Thank you so much for making them. Have a good day.
Great little informative vid. Thanks for just getting to the point. A lot of other RUclipsrs like to chit-chat.
Keep them coming.
I was thinking 30" when I saw the title. Nailed it.
Have a son who is a carpenter, and friends who are electricians.
In the house, your guidance makes great sense. In the workshop and garage, the table saw, other stationary tools, workbenches, shop cabinets are all right about 37 inches high and very heavy, so to be accessible, receptacles need to be a little higher.
Always enjoy your channel and learn a lot.
Thanks.
Workshops, garages, and industrial applications are different then homes, especially if trying to stay with ADA recomendations.
Certanly for me this is the best channel to learn about electricity thanks Ben
Wow, all GREAT tips ! I really enjoyed this.
Nice video. Comments were helpful too. I’ve remodeled houses twenty+ years so I’ve done it all from start to finish. Years ago I made a template for this with a couple pieces of 1x4 nailed in a “T” shape. Pretty easy to make and is spot on. 1x4 with a 5/8 hole at 22 1/2” up and a couple scraps screwed to the face to mark for outlets and switches on the face of the 2x4. Takes longer to run an extension cord than to make it. Hold it in place and it will guide your bit. Years ago an electrician taught me to use an impact driver with an auger bit and to carry a 4, 6, and 12” extension. I’ve also learned to drill clockwise around the room so if you do hit a nail or hard spot, it won’t smack you in the face or bust your knuckles.
Does clockwise around the room mean you drill the studs with your left to the wall?
milwaukee hole hawg rested on my knee cap. Drill as I walk and every hole is the same height. Also flip my claw hammer upside down and rest box on it ensures same height on all plugs.
👍😎👌
Yep, hammer handle height off the floor
completely agree. everyone on our crews have cut their hammers to exactly 13 inches and we cut down an aluminum yard stick to 42 inches for switches and counter plugs. and we too use the hole hawks on the knee or thigh. all depends who is drilling at the time and how tall they are. lol
@Gene I'm an electrician and that's what we do.
@Gene I'm not saying cut your hammer, I'm saying consistency is important.
Always good info Ben, thanks
Good video! I've noticed the older the electrician the closer to the waist!!! I've been specifying raising the outlets and lowering the switches for ADA and Aging in Place.
The older the electrician the more experience he has of other trades tripping over and destroying cables ran at 24" ;)
You do really neat rough in work. Good job man
You are absolutely correct, well done
Height of horizontal wire runs:
Other factors that should be considered, many homes include eight adding a :chair rail" a decorative and functional piece of molding running horizontally around the room to protect the wall from chairs being slammed into the wall thus causing damage to the drywall. The height of the chair rail is between 26 and 32 inches off the floor.
I had a high end contractor explain what he called the 4 block corner. When making a corner use 2 upright studs with spacer blocks 12 inches long. One goes at the top and one goes at the bottom and one goes 16 inches above the bottom one 16 inches below the top one. The open spaces give you clear area in corner to run wiring and most plumbing runs, just like you showed in your video
Keep those videos coming dude
Clean. Great job!
working on my cabin. great video. thanks
Answered my exact question! Thanks!
thanks for answering my questions!
Thanks for the video!
26" for general runs. Good video.
I like that height of drilling holes around 28 to 32 inches, good job Ben
Great video. You definitely know your stuff.
Good video. Keep posting
One of the last things you showed was running the Romex around the corner. That was, from what I am told, where the "four block corner" measurements came from. A 12" block a 16" space another block and space and so on until you get to the end of the corner post. Those space would be where electrical and plumbing would be run so you don't have to drill through solid wood to make a chase.
30" is a great idea. I like switches to be 46" to the top of the box, and recepts to be 14" to the top. Use a laser level to quickly and precisely shoot a line around the room so you can sharpie where to make the holes. Auger bits are awesome to use to make nice clean holes. Just be very careful they don't hit a nail or a knot in the wood. Best to use a right-angle drill, too. Also, l like to leave a short loop of slack in the stud space for each cable that goes into a box.
Right-angle drill with an auger bit is fantastic. Spade bits are no bueno!
ADA specifies a minimum height of 15" and a maximum height of 48".
@@ninjamunky Ah, it's ADA and not in the NEC? Interesting. Good to know. So 15" is for recepts of course.
@@aaron74 - Right, 15 to the bottom, so maybe 16" to center, minimum. 18" to center is common where I'm at - that way you have a margin. Also, not sure if ADA is enforced in residential, but it is in commercial, and usually the heights are specified by the architect. One last thing, I think ADA is in the informational annex of the NEC, therefore not enforceable by the AHJ.
@@ninjamunky ADA is required if it's an apartment or business. If it's a home owner occupied isn't as much an issue but is still best to be followed for future concerns.
Hey Ben! 5/8 hole thru studs because 11/4 edge of stud from cable per code. 44” to bottom of box easier to hold den hammer on. 10-4
Personal preference is forty inches (so I don’t have to bend over to drill and pull wire, getting old), and I use a laser level to locate hole height. Using a Milwaukee Hole Hawg I just put the self feed auger bit on the laser line. It’s quick and results in a perfectly level line of holes. Switches are set at 48 inches and outlets at 12 inches.
Ben: I love to know your opinions
Comment section: Oh you'll get it!!!
I always leave a small loop of extra wire between the staple and the box. If the wires get mangled by the drywallers or the box needs to be moved a little (wainscotting or some other wall treatment in the future), it's an easy pull/fix.
brendan broomfield 4 days ago, "Personally I like leaving a loop so it doesn't cross itself, so basically like an upside down u so if in the future after the switch has been changed and the wires snipped as they often are through the years you don't have to extend the wires using a separate piece and wire nuts, more or less a courtesy to the next guy"
I further use NON-CODE color tapes wrap around cables to signify "functions" within the box. I use YELLOW (a live color) to signify the active incoming power, I use (passive) BLUE, to signify the LOADS, or feed cables down to the next boxes in a sequence, and I use PURPLE to signify wires that "may or may not" have live power attached, being light switch wires. So every box has a single live cable feed(YELLOW) a variety of passive load cables(BLUE) and may have a variety of switch cables(PURPLE). Note: Switch cables are PURPLE on both ends(This includes three way toggle switches). LOAD wires are YELLOW on the load end, and BLUE on the feed end. This color coding system very much simplifies decoding existing systems and switch boxes that have multiple loads, or multiple remote switches. So with 3 spools of color tapes in your pocket, You can greatly simplify tracing power flows through a branching network from box to box, from load back to source, without needlessly searching through peripheral branches.
Example: In a basement where there are exposed many branching Boxes if one were to tape-wrap-color-code the cables just outside the boxes, a yellow cable would lead you back towards the power source, blue would lead you down towards the loads, and purple would lead you towards or away from a switch box, AND HELPS THE NEXT GUY(if he trusts you) but certainly might lead one to save a bunch of time as they are verifying the past passes through the system. "Once verified could guide forever"
Thanks for the info.
Just want to say great job
Great points and tips. Although the NEC does not regulate switch and receptacle height (other than disconnects) I’ve been taught that building code does mandate receptacle and switch heights. (American Disabilities Act Requirement).
Thank you Sir!
To save time, set low outlet boxes a hammer height off the floor. When drilling through studs, rest the back of the drill about center thigh. Everyone is a different height, but it comes out just about perfect. My dad has been using that method professionally since the 1960s. It’s tried & true.
I'll take all the free knowledge I can get thank you 👍
Great info thanks
Good idea to standardize the height of electrical and plumbing. On my own house with 2 x 6 walls I pre drilled the studs for electrical and plumbing. I also like to run the horizontal run by my bed down at the bottom of the wall. Just in case the EMF levels are high I would rather not have the wires running at head level.
Running electrical at the base of a wall is bad. If you have a leak or condensation, the water can pool inside your wall void getting your wires wet.
Receptacles used to be installed in the floor. The reason for the code height of receptacles is two fold to protect from water flooding and to cause a loop of cord to hang lower than the receptacle. If liquid is spilled on a table that a lamp is sitting on, the liquid runs down the cord. At the lowest point of the cord, liquid goes to the floor, the cord loops back up to the receptacle.
@@creesenebeker5686 I have never had water in my walls. if you have water in your walls you have bigger problems. By my bed is the only place I ran the wires down low, not on the plate but about 6” up. I agree 24” up is bad for possible drywall screws.
Back in the ‘90s we panelized, and so pre-drilled entire bunks of studs beforethey were unbanded. Using a 7/8” (2x4s) or -1” (2x6s) 24” long auger bit (3/4 is too limiting). Two holes 24” up and down from the ends of the studs. This put the bottom hole 25.5” OC from the subfloor. Our boxes were generally mounted 16” to the TOP (not center) so this put the hole 9.5” from the top of the box - perfect for stapling cable w/in the req. 8”. The top holes were used for switch legs, sconces, and counter outlets. Because 90% of the drill-out was done before the bunks were opened all the drilling mess was contained and all the holes lined up perfectly from wall to wall. It did not eliminate site - drilling, still had to drill plates and joists - but it was still a huge time-saver that made the work look primo.
That sounds brilliant. I think that the 24" ish height is probably better than the 30" I suggested in the video but either work fine. I also prefer 16" to the top of the receptacle boxes. Thanks for sharing your experience! It really seems like that was a very good method to stream line the process you had going. Did you also mount the switch boxes to 48" to the top?
Excellent idea. Also, be careful when running wire in the kitchen and bathroom not to run wire at 32-35" so that the cabinet installers won't run a screw into the wire when installing the cabinets.
I love how neat you keep your wires.I hate seeing wires pulled that look like a pig's tail.
I do, switches 48" Recepts 16" wire runs anywhere between 20 and 45, 30 is a good idea.
@@JS-fy2lf Wouldn't a sane person just use a magnet or something to detect those plates first?
@@JS-fy2lf The trick seems to be then finding a way to screen contractors...
in uk that would be against regulattions, we have what is called zoneing where all cables are run horizontal or vertical from an outlet or switch hen you know where the cables are in the wall just by looking at it simple really
I like the English version better; it’s either vertical or horizontal from the switch and 1500mm from corners/end of wall 👍
@@lasaraungbakri7386 yes it's 250 mm from corners or end of wall
Switch 48” to bottom, receptacle 12” to bottom, general wiring 36” through studs.
Video is good keep it simple
The only code requirement I'm aware of are ADA. For floor outlets, the height is a minimum 15 inches from the bottom of the receptacle box to the floor. There are other variations but it is dependent on if there are obstacles, counters, etc. But if it is your personal home, do whatever you want.
I found using a 2x4 30" long and then marking all studs with it keeps all the holes straight. Or a laser level. Inspectors love a neat straight job. Also, use the Bosch bits with a good strong cordless. Goes through like butter.
WeatherNut27 if electricians did that they would go broke. Who has this kind of time?
thank you. i will follow
Doing carpentry framing learned not to put a block on
48 " following the rest of the wall blocking to avoid the electrician tear it off so I did knee and shoulder height at all doors
I do my fair share of houses. I usually have a table set up for cutting ferring strip and 2x4's with a mitre saw. I cut two pieces of ferring. One at 18" and the other at 48". I mark all switches bath vanity and kitchen counter at 48",and all other general use receptacles at 18".
Depending on framing I usally rest my hole hog at my knee height for outlets around the outside perimeter of dwelling and for switching usually two holes above and one below if needed.
Tanks for you videos
Kick ass. I run the plug wires 24 to 26 from finished floor height. In the 30 inch zone u r getting close to lower cabinets Heights. And on all holes I put metal protector plates to minimize screws in my wires later
@Tom Garbo no, plug
U could be the ass muncher
@Tom Garbo outlet=receptacle=plug if you are on the trade you know what's mean
I don't know who set these sizes but all the outlets in my house are 50 inches of the floor never understood putting outlets behind further and then worrying how bad the plug is damaged. It is all most like for thousands of years they was something that had to be done in a house that made people have to cause hate and poor love of each other it is so nice to when you see ever thing and everyone as good and special part in this world🤗😁😜😎😁
You say both "heighth" for "height" and "acrossed" for "across". It's not a big deal in the magnitude or language manipulation and reformation that is happening in today's world, but electricians are perfectionists. I have, as a perfectionist and not an electrician, followed your videos about wiring up my new carriage house to a T. Your builds are beautiful and so sexy and perfect, but those enunciations are both technically incorrect. It certainly doesn't matter, and I'm not going to bust your balls on it, but perfection is fun. Thank you for doing this. You are gift to all doers!
good vidio!
Good tips
Looks good
Thank you
Wow, its a no brainer.
Why is this not standard practice?
Then everybody knows where wires should or would be located.
I'm with you Benj.
It is standard practice for experienced electricians to know what to do without a video showing a personal opinion, if one is wiring one should already know if not then one should not be wiring. No drywall experience bad walls,, no plumbing experience flooded house, no electrical experience one's home can burn down around them.
Always leave a loop of wire feeding into the wall receptacle don't pull it tight. If you need extra wire years down the road or whenever, you have spare behind the drywall to pull through. In Canada that is code to leave a 6 inch loop with a 6 inch tail into the box to wire the outlet. Same for wall switches, staple wire close to receptacle box. Don't place two wires in one staple and don't hammer down tight, just enough to hold the cable is enough.
In most areas in the US we are allowed up to 2 wires under one staple
I was told about the loop "trick" by an electrician, good advice.
I never run my wires at 24" and the reason is the sheetrock guys are going to run the rock horizontal and 24" is EXACTLY in the middle of a 4' wide sheet and is where they usually will put 2 screws, and depending on the rock hanger, sometimes they use longer screws and then you are trying to find the short because you ran the wire dead center of where THEY fasten the rock.
Really good tip. Shields help with this, but if they're inconveniently placed, the rockers will hate you. I don't like making other workers hate me, even if I won't be on the job site when they arrive.
Should be screwing at 16" and 32" at least, not 24"
Hi Good jobs i like this i'm frome Algéria
Where I'm at the receptacles need to be 18 in from the floor to the center of the box ,and the light switches need to be 48 inches from the floor to the center of the box .
I just hold the hole hawg at my waist and that’s somewhere around 36” inches from ff. Whatever the measurement, you want to keep your run at a consistent hight. That keeps the insulaters happy and its easier to pull long runs of cable.
Exactly.
That's what most electrician do, and then the height depends on how tall the electrician is more then anything else.. and that works just fine..
Yep, you can always tell the holes the old Master drilled, all at the waist -
Apprentices are liable to drill anywhere until they learn to quit wrestling with the hole hawg 🤦♂️🤭
Buddy89 good point about insulation.
@@DRAGONMONKEY0310 I'm 6'4" and my journeyman is 5'6" and it makes him so mad lol. I don't care.
I'm becoming a fan of them new fangled laser leveler things, not sure if it's a time saver, but more fun :)
Great Video
I aslo use a laser now. Really good for putting pot lights in the ceilings also. I have the customer mark the floor and I laser up from it.
UK we have set height for outlets & switches. Cables must be routed horizontal or vertical. Also all hidden cables must be RCD protected (GFCI).
thank you
coming from the right angle drill and then the hole hawg generation, I typically run at thigh height, which is probably about 30 inches
I have often chalk lined my drill spot. Now I have a laser that is even faster. I use the 25-1/2 " height for my holes. That is a 2' level on the bottom plate when I am not using a chalk line or laser. 12" to the bottom of the box for outlets.
Last I checked the code it's required to secure wires within 12 inches of a box but you raise a good point about not securing wires too close to a box. (stress, bending, etc) Problems associated with being too close are not addressed in the code.
8 inches from the 6mm sheath required that's left in the box.
@@EGGINFOOLS … I'm an old guy. Perhaps I am recalling the days of BX or conduit where there was no sheath inside the box. I can see where that could change with Romex.
@@rupe53 Old guys have the best knowledge in most cases and can teach better!
@@EGGINFOOLS … I would agree that we have more experience and know what works but some of us also have bad habits that are hard to break.
i was always taught to make a courteousy loop when doing rough ins...extra few inches between box and first staple so in the future if next guy needs a little more length ..
I find that nowadays no one has courtesy.
i still do that, for an extra couple bucks its always worth it
We did that for over 15 years until the new local inspector decided it wasn't allowed.
Think about where insulation will go, and make the runs in level lines so the insulation will hopefully be sliced to fit. Avoid loops and random placement that is hard to insulate around.
I'm interested in the best heights from the drywall perspective. The finished ceiling height is achieved by considering adding bottom plate (1-1/2"), stud (92-5/8" or 104-5/8" or 116-5/8"), double top plate (3"), then subtracting ceiling drywall (-5/8" historically) and finished floor (-1/2"). Ceiling drywall is often 1/2" instead of 5/8" these days so you can say there is about 5/8" gap above the subfloor. Drywall comes either 48" or 54" wide and starts at the ceiling coming down. It's also thinner where they meet at the ceiling bevel.
On 8' ceilings the seam is 48-5/8" (48" drywall) from subfloor
On 9' ceilings the seam is 54-5/8" (54" drywall) from subfloor ***OR*** 60-5/8" and 12-5/8" (48" drywall)
On 10' ceilings the seam is at 72-5/8" and 24-5/8" (48" drywall) from subfloor ***OR*** 66-5/8" and 12-5/8" (54" drywall)
Hey Ben, would love a video on old Levington wireless remote switches. I have to replace one but have no idea what will work in its place or if I have to replace the entire system to Lutron or something. It's a 4 switch combo device. So maybe a video on how that all works.
@@scotmiller5979 agree. I like the Casetas but I dont think they have 1 switch that will control 4 different lights.
Anywhere around the 30”, 36” is about the height of the second punch out for a steel stud which would also miss any 24” Sheetrock lap! All about communicating with the other trades, especially when same guys work together regularly.
I think a notch at the top of the stund for new construction and remodel 30 for code calls for it to be 1/3 middle Stud.
Most all kitchen and bathroom cabinets, base that is top out at 32" so running wire at 30" should allow for the screws to avoid the wire when anchoring the base cabinets to the wall. Maybe consider 28" but no lower. As far as I know receptacles have to be a minimum of 12" from the floor according to code for Arizona. Light switches can top at 48" so only one piece of the drywall would have to be cut. When I remodeled my two bathrooms I marked and ran 2 x 4 studs sideways where an assist bar and the towel rods would be mounted. This allows for a superior mounting surface for these items that take weight or overtime the drywall anchors fail. I also put in 32" wide doors rather than the 24" doors previous. if I am able to build my own house from the slab it will have 8" thick colored block on the exterior and 2x8 steel frame wall to the interior. All electrical will be sleeved through steel conduit which completely protects it. Both bathrooms will have a four foot wide plumbing chase between them allowing complete access to the plumbing, the same goes for the kitchen and laundry room. House will be all electric with no natural gas that requires venting through the roof. The clothes dryer can vent to the plumbing chase or 90 the vent to the exterior wall. If planned correctly only two plumbing vents would leave the roof., 4" for the bathrooms and 2" for the kitchen and laundry! Refrigeration Compressor on a slab outside on the ground. This allows you to never have to go up on the roof as there would be no equipment up there!
I hold the drill at waist level and run around the structure like a crazy person until all the holes are done or my battery dies.... whichever comes first. That's how I set the wire height.
It helped
Yes 30" is a good number. I take a board, trim to 30" and rest my drill on it when drilling he wire hole. This ensure all holes are the same height and eliminates the need for measuring and marking. I also use only self-feeding dril-bits to make the drilling easier.
I wish you would comment on universal design or ADA homes. electric outlets higher and switches lower so that ease of use in a wheel chair. great videos Ben.
30 " sounds good to me ... Good vid Benji ...
I like to use 18in ship auger bits with dewalts 60v stud drill when the framework is wood. Makes it easy when there are 3,4 parallel studs to pass through. These bits are also nice to drill through the top plate without needing a ladder. Another benefit using 18in ship augers with corded drills, you can drill into the toe plate a 1/4 inch or so when you're not using the drill setting the bit propping up the drill. When you need the drill again you can pick it up without bending over as the drill suspends itself about 2ft in the air from the long bit.
I usually hold the drill at my waist and I'm 5"7. So i assume I'm around 30, 36 inches from the floor. I've seen older remodels where the wires were zig zagged, up n down. While it may technically be ok, it looks really bad. Very amateurish.
It’s best to staple the wires on the outside and drill a hole through the wall into the receptacle.
We call it “comcasting” but you have to use UF and not romex...
It’s all about time for me I hardly use Measurement mostly use my hip or knee for not perfect for diy I recommend to it
Love it when people make videos like they're an expert it's like the first time the guys ever done it hey I'll make a video on how to do something I've never done before
Using "YOUR" common sense to determine size and location quite often does not work. While the code may seem like an inconvenience, many people with lots of experience have discussed and determined how it should be done.
I drill at 2 foot. Easy to remember for future jobs and plenty of room for staples. Also I always put a slack loop before the box for the next guy.
They also make metal plates you hammer in to cover pipes and wires that run through the studs
Also could have mentioned the 1 1/4" space from the front of the stud to the beginning of the hole for the wire, anything less than 1 1/4" would need a nail plate to protect the wire.
Protection plates now required by Canadian Code
Great vid, get an auger bit, that spade bit is slow and a pta.
Hope you put your cable protection plates on all the studs. As required.
Can you do a video on baseboard heaters single & double pole wiring alone or multiple together?