Thanks! Up to this point I could not figure out the difference between the normal and Pro - I clearly need the pro as I want to automate my irrigation system
My dream would be a din rail 4 channel (optional PoE enabled) LAN capable locally controlled relay. I'm doing a big renovation of my house including all electrical system next year so let's hope for that! Based on my calculations I would need at least 5 of these be able to switch all lightning of the house. I think I'll be better off building that myself 😅 Thanks for the video! Looking forward to the flashing part!
Wouldn't be better from a maintenance point to have w cabinet and automate from one point, as long as you check the resistance of the cables you should be ok. I think that's the approach is take.
That’s exactly what I’m gonna do. Central wire cabinet (actually a technical room as I call it) and control/command everything from there. After trying tons of different boards I decided to develop my own. Waiting of how tasmota will evolve on ESP32, and got myself a couple Olimex ESP32 boards with ethernet, one of them PoE, to start testing. My new house is being designed now and building should start 1st half of 2021. Let’s see what comes out....
Tales Maschio exactly my idea as well, I want to have everything centralized, but I'm thinking in 2 central locations: one for downstairs and the other for (surprise) upstairs so that I don't have to wire that much cable around
NotEnoughTECH Actually not that much, check the first videos of superhouse tv for a small example, however I want to do it a bit different and I want to wire to the actual switches as well in order to be able to sell the house without the domotics installation
Hi, at 5:40 you said “it’s at RF, so you can link RF remotes to it”, then you showed holding down a button and pairing a remote, but how do you get it into this RF mode? I’ve been trying to pair a remote to my pro R3 and it’s not working. All that happens when I release the held down button is the relay switches on.
@@notenoughtech thanks - that’s what I’ve been doing. I don’t know why it doesn’t work. I have two pro R3s here and both are the same. I hold down the button, the LED blinks red, then I release the button and the relay corresponding to that button switches on and there’s no response to pressing the 433MHz button. Does the ProR3 need to be in some special mode before pairing? In your video you said it was “at RF” and pointed at the unit, and I didn’t know what that meant.
It would depend on the system you have installed but the pro version has dry relay which would act as interruptor. If your controller uses mains login then non pro version would work too
Hello, thank you for the video. How would you recommend wirelessly controlling (on/off) 10 lights individually, in a steel building with, no wifi/internet? The building is equipped with line power (110v). I want to avoid running long wires from the switch(es) to each light for control. I'd also like to avoid using key fobs as light switches. What type of switch(es)/receivers do you recommend? (RF 433 MHz, SONOFF RFR2, RFR3, R5, M5, etc) Thank you for any help you can offer.
You should consider ZigBee bulbs, as each one will act as a router helping propagate the mesh, so even in dificult buildings your connectivity will have a better chances of working. I covered sonoff ZigBee dongles on my channel so check it out
Hi Mat, I have a 4CHPRO3 and one channel seems to ramdom switch off. I beleive it maybe an some strange RF code stored. Is there a way to delete ALL rf codes, as the instructions only mention deleting codes with a remote, but what if you dont have the remote, or the stored RF code is unknown. ?
What size barrel is the DC power input and is it center positive? I'd like to order a PSU at the same time I order my device but I can't find any information at all on the power connector.
Thanks for the introduction to the R3 Pro. Mine will arrive tomorrow, and I wish to employ it to run multiple LED shop lights (38 x 42Watts) for my seedling germination room. I'll keep each channel below the rated wattage/amperage, but I'm confused about what breaker to use to feed all four channels. If I put a 40A breaker in front of the R3, I worry that I might have problems with individual channels if someone accidentally overloaded one of them. Any suggestions? Does it make any sense to introduce 10A breakers between the individual channel relays and the lights? Would I run the R3 from a 30-40A breaker from the panel. Thanks for the content, and the community.
Are you feeding all 4 channels from the same supply? Of you want to add extra safety just add 10A fuse for each channel this way you blow that first before melting the relay and tripping the source
@@notenoughtech Thanks. I haven't seen the wiring diagram, but I thought that all the relays supply were ganged in the device. I will be happy to see that I can supply each relay separately, and fuse each at 10A. I'll have it tomorrow. Much appreciated.
@@notenoughtech So, I have the R3 and just ordered 4 x 10A breakers for my sub-panel to power each relay via "COM" ("NO" out to device). I still am a bit vexed by the AC Input and DC input. I assume these are discrete power for the CPU/Wifi/Remote. From the SONOFF schematic, it appears that I must use one or the other. I will control the relays via Wifi. Also, I'd like to mount a din bar in my sub panel for the R3, but I doubt that the steel case will inhibit the Wifi without an external antenna. Thanks for your thoughts and assistance.
Hiya, thanks for a great video as usual. I have the 4chpro R3 v1. the schematics show the RF s5 reset switch on the board but looking at mine there is no s5 switch or s6. I am asking because with the sonoff firmware ch1 and 4 kept on turning on and stayed on at random times. So me being me decided to try Tasmota. Brilliant it worked and ch1 stopped turning on at random times but ch4 still turns on randomly. I have searched the web for answers but can not find my schematics anywhere. could you advise, please? I disconnected everything from the 4chpro and just have it powered up
I believe the only way to reset the RF bind to channel was to overwrite it with a new signal. That was the answer I got from sonoff folk. I don't use rF so I never bothered with jt
I'm working on a project using the Sonoff 4CH PRO R3. I've found a 12v DC adapter with the right sized barrel connector but I can't confirm if the polarity is right. Can anybody tell me if the center is positive or negative?
I am using the 4CHR2 version with DIP switches set for interlock mode. In my control system it is imperative that interlocking mode works as expected. Does this new R3 panel store the channel modes locally in some NV memory? If this R3 is reset to factory I am assuming that the channel modes would also be reset to independent mode? This could create a big problem on my set up and I might have to abandon the Sonoff panels if this is the case. Thanks.
Hi I would like to use this as a speaker switch. Common for r 1 and r 2 would be + and - for left speaker and I would use r3 and r4 for right speaker. Can I use this to prevent any of the connections from amp a (which would be on normally closed) to reach the speakers when I trigger the channels to amp b. I would need to trigger all channels at once so that they never mix their state ie: they must all be open or closed at the same time. If this can't be done can you suggest another alternative. The preferred trigger would be alexa or an rf remote. Thanks
I assume you have the PRO version in mind for that. You can set the policy to toggle all switches at once, so that shouldn't be an issue. I never used relays for audio, I'd test first electromagnetic nature of the relay would cause interference. I think for this application you would need something that uses solid state relays or transistors.
Hi there, does the mobile device need to be in the same network or can it be in another one? I want to switch some devices remote in a different house. Is that possible?
Port forwarding isn't complex (sounds more daunting than it is) and MQTT may not be optimal if you just looking to solve a single automation but brilliant if you are going to use it moving forward for your integrations.
@@notenoughtech i just want to switch on heating the day before I get to my mountain house. I don't need an analog signal or feedback. I want something reliable and simple that I can troubleshoot myself.
Have you tried soldering external buttons for those 4 input buttons? I wanna hook them with external buttons outside my electrical panel for easier access. I am not too familiar with electronics, and my thoughts is you can solder some wires on the back of the buttons and connect them to a push button on the electrical panel door. But as any push button, I guess there will be some bounces, and with additional wires there will be some noises picked up on those i/o.
You could take advantage of exposed pins, flash the unit and configure additional buttons. Also you can use ready made devices like IKEA dinner (£6) or aqara opple to switch these remotely
Haha meatballs! Dimmer obviously :) It's easier only slightly more expensive but super comfortable to use. Plus you can always reconfigure these of needed
Do you know if it is possible to connect 12v DC devices to the relays? In the manual it says that only 110-240v AC is supported.. but I mean relay is relay, isn’t it?
Very good video, thanks! Just to be sure that I understood it well: can I add 4 different rf wallswitch to 1 channel of rhe 4chrfpro3? And also control it from the app without the rf bridge? Then why sould I buy rf bridge? TIA, David
@@notenoughtech both where disabled. But looking at inching. I can have channel 4 turn off in 1 sec if ch4 turn back on. I think this could solve my problem. Thx
Hi. I had the same problem, till I deleted the remote control ( on the 4chpror3 press the channel ( in your case 4) button till you see 2 times blinking purple, the press the channel button on the remote control for channel 4) , in my case RM433. Now I use only the eWElink.
Hi. Thank you for your awesome video on Sonoff 4ch. I am wondering How did you know that the number of RF remotes supported for each channel? I heard that you have said 4 RF remotes for 1ch in video. But, I couldn't find and officials detail on its product.
Hi good review I like what you do. I have one question. Can one gang be use to detect open/close state ? For example connect a wired door sensor. if door is opened, contact/circuit is opened and can be detected and triggers an event on other gangs or other SONOFF devices ?
Interlocking is possible. As 0er adding other sensors you'd need to flash it to get better control over hardware and add extra sensors. If you want to monitor doors check out my smart door article
Love the video. Really informative. Just wondering if you know if the Pro would control my heating controls. I have 4 x th16 sonoffs currently triggering my boiler and 1 for each of the 3 zones. Could this replace all 4 in one unit?
I don't remember the exact current limit on TH16 but I can't see why not since you can link the channels as well. So if your current limit is fine, then go for it
Hi! Quick question, on 4CHPROR3 how do you reset it to factory defaults? I have a strange situation, it has the default firmware on it and when i ask to turn on all lights only 3 turn on, one remains off. If i go and turn on specifically that channel relay it works just fine. any ideas pls?
Sounds like interlock settings? Facroty settings - press any button for 5 sec. Note the RF won't reset this way, you need to clear each channel separately
That build in fuse, would that be a 10A fuse ? (I have 1 fuse near the relais but can not read the markings) Because i think if it is a 10A, then it would blow if you draw 40 Amps thrue the entire board.
Hi there That was impressive. Wanted to ask you a quick one: is it possible to either 1. Upload your own firmware to the gateway, yet ensure the gateway keeps talking to the sensors. This will help me pull the data onto my own AWS IOT platform and APP, or 2. If 1. Isn't possible, replace all of the firmware with my own and get all the data where I wants it. Cheers
Good Morning, I have following question. I had R2 and was able to set up interlocking using hardware and inching using software so I had both functions working same time. I just bought R3 because I needed to program more then 1 RF transmitter to 1 chancel but now I can not have inching and interlocking same time. Do you know if there is a way to do so on R3? Thank You in advance
@@notenoughtech Thank you for such quick reply but unfortunately unlike you :) I'm not that tech savvy and not familiar with flashing. I guess I have to go back to R2 and maybe buy RF bridge and using scenes program 2 RF remotes to work one channel on 4chPRO. Thank you again
It's less complicated than you think and you can use it on not flashed devices too thanks to ewelink api notenoughtech.com/home-automation/ewelink-api-in-nodered/
Hi, can you probably test the Sonoff 4CH (Pro) R3 with Tasmota 9.3.1? There is an open issue in Tasmota Github that this tasmota version is not running on this HW. Would be great. Thanks
8.3.1 works correctly. But the ota fails. Is there a specific feature on 9.3 that you are after? I'm a bit pressed on time to do the hardware flash to test it.
@@notenoughtech It's not me, who had the issue. If your OTA failed, even with the zipped bin files (e.g. tasmota-minimal.bin.gz; that's a must now due to size), the issue should be further investigated at tasmota github. Thanks for your support.
@@schreinerjoerg I tried the minimal first but that also failed. The doc reference mentioned proper firmware path to go to 9.x.x so for now I had to give up
The end/outtro of your video is so loud! I had to throw my headphones off at the end... Haha. Please adjust in the future. Thanks for the great content though!
Hi Mat, I have a problem. I have change the password on my router and now my Sonoff 4CH Pro R2 no longer connected to my wifi. How do I do a factory reset on sonoff ? Is there a way to do it ? Hope you can help me on this. Thanks in advance
@@waynenergy RF can't be reset (just overwritten) I assume it's not flashed with tasmota right? If you struggle make a hotspot on your phone then use ewelink to remove device when connected
Hi.....quick question.....I’ve had a reply back from itead who said that it will only support ONE remote control? They did seem somewhat confused mind you and so I’m asking you instead 🙂. Are you sure that 4 remotes can be paired? Have you tried more than one? Any info would be most appreciated. Many thanks.
Hmm... If is stated specifically that 4 remotes were supported then that's the info I was given. I'd have to go through my emails to see what's up. I remember reading one of the pdf docs or pages about this as I had issues unbinding the RF remote.
hi (again).....I’ve taken the plunge and ordered one of the R3s......however, I already have one of the R2s which does only allow one remote to be paired BUT (and I’m hoping you know the answer to this) I’m wondering if these cloning remotes will allow me to use more than one....any thoughts? Have you seen/used these? Thanks for help.......cloning link can be seen here..... ruclips.net/video/l-k_XvkZ0jE/видео.html
My Sonoff is responding to my car key. Every time I open or close my car, all Sonoff channels switch on or off. It responds to every VW, Skoda, and Seat car key.
Great test and information as always ! I have some universal 433 Mhz remotes in use allready, do you know if these could be paired with the 4CH PRO instead of the Sonoff remote ?
@@notenoughtech Thx for quick reply, and indeed not expensive but I would have to pair those with my existing garage door and not sure that would work either ... I would have to go all Sonoff then I guess :-)
@@notenoughtech I am replacing an existing gate opener that works with RF now, and want to limit impact on the end users. Usage of an app with Wifi is the new feature I will introduce .
Let me remind you that unless otherwise agreed in writing between the distributor, the supplier and the consumer the voltage declared in respect of a low voltage supply shall be 230 volts between the phase and neutral conductors at the supply terminals. It used to be 240V; it never was 220V. The change in the UK (and the EU) was according to International Standard IEC 60038, IEC standard voltages, defines a set of standard voltages for use in low voltage and high voltage AC and DC electricity supply systems. Thank you for your attention.
Hi, great video, thanks for all info. I just want to ask a question about the DC input. I could not find any information about its pin configuration in any of the documentation of the product. They just simply draw a single line for DC connection. But what is the config for it? Is center pin positive of negative? Do you have any information (or tested the connector) about this? Thanks
Thanks for the great video! I would like to control the 4ch Pro R3 module such that all four relays switch simultaneously in response to a button press. Is that possible? Is it also possible to switch a second pro R3 module from the same button press but with a delay of a few seconds?
If you flash it with tasmota you will have the control you need over each unit with the ability to trigger all channels on 2 units at the same time. I also made interlocking and inching in node red - see my page for relevant articles.
These are very similar to the previous model. I would definitely be flashing them.
Thanks for the video/review :)
Flashed! just need to power through the tutorial :)
Thanks! Up to this point I could not figure out the difference between the normal and Pro - I clearly need the pro as I want to automate my irrigation system
Decoupled relays are the pro advantage so you can drive various voltages. Hope it works well for you!
My dream would be a din rail 4 channel (optional PoE enabled) LAN capable locally controlled relay. I'm doing a big renovation of my house including all electrical system next year so let's hope for that! Based on my calculations I would need at least 5 of these be able to switch all lightning of the house. I think I'll be better off building that myself 😅
Thanks for the video! Looking forward to the flashing part!
Wouldn't be better from a maintenance point to have w cabinet and automate from one point, as long as you check the resistance of the cables you should be ok.
I think that's the approach is take.
That’s exactly what I’m gonna do. Central wire cabinet (actually a technical room as I call it) and control/command everything from there. After trying tons of different boards I decided to develop my own. Waiting of how tasmota will evolve on ESP32, and got myself a couple Olimex ESP32 boards with ethernet, one of them PoE, to start testing. My new house is being designed now and building should start 1st half of 2021. Let’s see what comes out....
That's a big space if you need a room for all relays :)
Jokes aside, being able to troubleshoot everything from a single point makes a lot of sense.
Tales Maschio exactly my idea as well, I want to have everything centralized, but I'm thinking in 2 central locations: one for downstairs and the other for (surprise) upstairs so that I don't have to wire that much cable around
NotEnoughTECH Actually not that much, check the first videos of superhouse tv for a small example, however I want to do it a bit different and I want to wire to the actual switches as well in order to be able to sell the house without the domotics installation
Hi, at 5:40 you said “it’s at RF, so you can link RF remotes to it”, then you showed holding down a button and pairing a remote, but how do you get it into this RF mode? I’ve been trying to pair a remote to my pro R3 and it’s not working. All that happens when I release the held down button is the relay switches on.
You have to hold the button down then press the remote button you want to pair
@@notenoughtech thanks - that’s what I’ve been doing. I don’t know why it doesn’t work. I have two pro R3s here and both are the same. I hold down the button, the LED blinks red, then I release the button and the relay corresponding to that button switches on and there’s no response to pressing the 433MHz button. Does the ProR3 need to be in some special mode before pairing? In your video you said it was “at RF” and pointed at the unit, and I didn’t know what that meant.
@@notenoughtech ps. In your video, when you released the button, the relay did not switch on
@@notenoughtech ok, I just reset them and now it’s working. Weird! All fixed now, sorry for disturbing you with Qs...
Can you gang the relays together so they all switch together in response to a single 433MHz button press?
You should be able to as the RF limit is 4 devices per channel. I only verified it with 2 channels.
So if I understand this product correctly. You can EASILY program it to store the signals from your garage door remote and electric gate?
It would depend on the system you have installed but the pro version has dry relay which would act as interruptor. If your controller uses mains login then non pro version would work too
@@notenoughtech No. I don't think it would work. I need an entirely different product, and I don't think anything like that exists on the market.
Hello, thank you for the video.
How would you recommend wirelessly controlling (on/off) 10 lights individually, in a steel building with, no wifi/internet?
The building is equipped with line power (110v). I want to avoid running long wires from the switch(es) to each light for control. I'd also like to avoid using key fobs as light switches.
What type of switch(es)/receivers do you recommend?
(RF 433 MHz, SONOFF RFR2, RFR3, R5, M5, etc)
Thank you for any help you can offer.
You should consider ZigBee bulbs, as each one will act as a router helping propagate the mesh, so even in dificult buildings your connectivity will have a better chances of working. I covered sonoff ZigBee dongles on my channel so check it out
Hi Mat, I have a 4CHPRO3 and one channel seems to ramdom switch off. I beleive it maybe an some strange RF code stored. Is there a way to delete ALL rf codes, as the instructions only mention deleting codes with a remote, but what if you dont have the remote, or the stored RF code is unknown. ?
To my knowledge you can only overwrite the RF singnals on these units as even factory reset retains it.
What size barrel is the DC power input and is it center positive? I'd like to order a PSU at the same time I order my device but I can't find any information at all on the power connector.
Can we connect to 4CHPRO3 solenoid valves which operate at 24v AC; Without a converter from 220v to 24v?
what is the WiFi distance and range?
Hi! Can i used that for Roller Shutter Electric Motor to make it "smart"?
Yes you could wire this to drive your motor with relays just check the load for the motor
Thanks for the introduction to the R3 Pro. Mine will arrive tomorrow, and I wish to employ it to run multiple LED shop lights (38 x 42Watts) for my seedling germination room. I'll keep each channel below the rated wattage/amperage, but I'm confused about what breaker to use to feed all four channels. If I put a 40A breaker in front of the R3, I worry that I might have problems with individual channels if someone accidentally overloaded one of them. Any suggestions? Does it make any sense to introduce 10A breakers between the individual channel relays and the lights? Would I run the R3 from a 30-40A breaker from the panel. Thanks for the content, and the community.
Are you feeding all 4 channels from the same supply? Of you want to add extra safety just add 10A fuse for each channel this way you blow that first before melting the relay and tripping the source
@@notenoughtech Thanks. I haven't seen the wiring diagram, but I thought that all the relays supply were ganged in the device. I will be happy to see that I can supply each relay separately, and fuse each at 10A. I'll have it tomorrow. Much appreciated.
The main difference between pro and 4ch is the relay type. On pro you have to supply power for each gang. 4ch has a pass through
@@notenoughtech So, I have the R3 and just ordered 4 x 10A breakers for my sub-panel to power each relay via "COM" ("NO" out to device). I still am a bit vexed by the AC Input and DC input. I assume these are discrete power for the CPU/Wifi/Remote. From the SONOFF schematic, it appears that I must use one or the other. I will control the relays via Wifi. Also, I'd like to mount a din bar in my sub panel for the R3, but I doubt that the steel case will inhibit the Wifi without an external antenna. Thanks for your thoughts and assistance.
Yes you can use external brick or the mains to power the sonoff pro. These won't feed into the relays.
Sir can I install CR2025 or CR2032 cell in SONOFF RFR2 or sonoff powr2 switch for standby
These wouldn't last long. As the esp power consumption is too big. Usually they work well on devices with RTC
Hi did you check power consumption in standby mode?
If I remember correctly, without relays engaged it was 0.6 and more if your relays are in engaged mode (more relays more power)
Hiya, thanks for a great video as usual. I have the 4chpro R3 v1. the schematics show the RF s5 reset switch on the board but looking at mine there is no s5 switch or s6. I am asking because with the sonoff firmware ch1 and 4 kept on turning on and stayed on at random times. So me being me decided to try Tasmota. Brilliant it worked and ch1 stopped turning on at random times but ch4 still turns on randomly. I have searched the web for answers but can not find my schematics anywhere. could you advise, please? I disconnected everything from the 4chpro and just have it powered up
I believe the only way to reset the RF bind to channel was to overwrite it with a new signal. That was the answer I got from sonoff folk. I don't use rF so I never bothered with jt
I'm working on a project using the Sonoff 4CH PRO R3. I've found a 12v DC adapter with the right sized barrel connector but I can't confirm if the polarity is right. Can anybody tell me if the center is positive or negative?
@parsa 1389 Thank you.
Centre Positive
Does the sonoff 4CH pro3 controls 24 Volts AC ? Looks as only higher than 100Volts AC while 9-23 Volts is only DC .
It won't work with 24VAC - you will need to power it with something else.
I am using the 4CHR2 version with DIP switches set for interlock mode. In my control system it is imperative that interlocking mode works as expected. Does this new R3 panel store the channel modes locally in some NV memory? If this R3 is reset to factory I am assuming that the channel modes would also be reset to independent mode? This could create a big problem on my set up and I might have to abandon the Sonoff panels if this is the case. Thanks.
Resetting the device will remove the settings including interlock. But you can have disconnected or rebooted with interlock working fine
Hi I would like to use this as a speaker switch. Common for r 1 and r 2 would be + and - for left speaker and I would use r3 and r4 for right speaker. Can I use this to prevent any of the connections from amp a (which would be on normally closed) to reach the speakers when I trigger the channels to amp b. I would need to trigger all channels at once so that they never mix their state ie: they must all be open or closed at the same time. If this can't be done can you suggest another alternative. The preferred trigger would be alexa or an rf remote.
Thanks
I assume you have the PRO version in mind for that. You can set the policy to toggle all switches at once, so that shouldn't be an issue. I never used relays for audio, I'd test first electromagnetic nature of the relay would cause interference. I think for this application you would need something that uses solid state relays or transistors.
Sonoff 4CHR3 is it possible to work without wifi on after set it up and remove wifi connection?
You can use buttons to do stuff and timer operation shouldn't be affected
Hi there, does the mobile device need to be in the same network or can it be in another one? I want to switch some devices remote in a different house. Is that possible?
You will need port forwarding or external server/MQTT broker
@@notenoughtech sounds to tec for me. i probably rather get a SIM card relay..
Port forwarding isn't complex (sounds more daunting than it is) and MQTT may not be optimal if you just looking to solve a single automation but brilliant if you are going to use it moving forward for your integrations.
@@notenoughtech i just want to switch on heating the day before I get to my mountain house. I don't need an analog signal or feedback. I want something reliable and simple that I can troubleshoot myself.
If that's the case probably a mobile router and ewelink app will work just fine
Have you tried soldering external buttons for those 4 input buttons? I wanna hook them with external buttons outside my electrical panel for easier access.
I am not too familiar with electronics, and my thoughts is you can solder some wires on the back of the buttons and connect them to a push button on the electrical panel door. But as any push button, I guess there will be some bounces, and with additional wires there will be some noises picked up on those i/o.
You could take advantage of exposed pins, flash the unit and configure additional buttons. Also you can use ready made devices like IKEA dinner (£6) or aqara opple to switch these remotely
@@notenoughtech I guess it's easier to just use a wireless light switch 👍
And I only get foods when I search "IKEA dinner" 😂
Haha meatballs!
Dimmer obviously :)
It's easier only slightly more expensive but super comfortable to use. Plus you can always reconfigure these of needed
Do you know if it is possible to connect 12v DC devices to the relays? In the manual it says that only 110-240v AC is supported.. but I mean relay is relay, isn’t it?
Only on pro as 4CH inst a dry contact
can we download the power consumption data using PRO r3
You can download power usage data from the eWeLink cloud
مبدع
Very good video, thanks! Just to be sure that I understood it well: can I add 4 different rf wallswitch to 1 channel of rhe 4chrfpro3? And also control it from the app without the rf bridge? Then why sould I buy rf bridge?
TIA, David
You can add 4 RF per channel without the bridge. Bridge enables the internet for devices that operate in RF mode only ( ie range issue
Thank you very much clarifying it! And also thank you the fast answer!
Subscribed for more videos 😉
Hope you will find more content that you like
i have4CHPROR3. Channel 4 automatically turns on and off for no reason at all. Do you know what needs to be done in order to stop this problem?
Is there a pattern? Check inching and interlocking settings in the app
@@notenoughtech both where disabled. But looking at inching. I can have channel 4 turn off in 1 sec if ch4 turn back on. I think this could solve my problem. Thx
Hi. I had the same problem, till I deleted the remote control ( on the 4chpror3 press the channel ( in your case 4) button till you see 2 times blinking purple, the press the channel button on the remote control for channel 4) , in my case RM433. Now I use only the eWElink.
Hello! Can it handle 24 v ac valves? Thanks!
The version with a detached relays yes.
Hi. Thank you for your awesome video on Sonoff 4ch. I am wondering How did you know that the number of RF remotes supported for each channel? I heard that you have said 4 RF remotes for 1ch in video. But, I couldn't find and officials detail on its product.
It's in the documentation although obscured. I checked with the ITEAD as well as I wasn't sure at first
@@notenoughtech I see. Thank you very much for quick response. Keep going on your great contents with new techs. 👍👍👍
Thank you for the kind words 🤗
hi, can sonoff running without internet after we setup? running offline
Yes it can
Can we control a light using sonoff and simple switch both at the same time
Yes but you would need something like so off mini I or dualr3 instead check the videos out on my channel
Hi good review I like what you do. I have one question.
Can one gang be use to detect open/close state ? For example connect a wired door sensor. if door is opened, contact/circuit is opened and can be detected and triggers an event on other gangs or other SONOFF devices ?
Interlocking is possible. As 0er adding other sensors you'd need to flash it to get better control over hardware and add extra sensors. If you want to monitor doors check out my smart door article
Love the video. Really informative. Just wondering if you know if the Pro would control my heating controls. I have 4 x th16 sonoffs currently triggering my boiler and 1 for each of the 3 zones. Could this replace all 4 in one unit?
I don't remember the exact current limit on TH16 but I can't see why not since you can link the channels as well. So if your current limit is fine, then go for it
Hi!
Quick question, on 4CHPROR3 how do you reset it to factory defaults?
I have a strange situation, it has the default firmware on it and when i ask to turn on all lights only 3 turn on, one remains off.
If i go and turn on specifically that channel relay it works just fine.
any ideas pls?
Sounds like interlock settings?
Facroty settings - press any button for 5 sec.
Note the RF won't reset this way, you need to clear each channel separately
That build in fuse, would that be a 10A fuse ? (I have 1 fuse near the relais but can not read the markings) Because i think if it is a 10A, then it would blow if you draw 40 Amps thrue the entire board.
The fuse is for the internals, PRO comes with independent relays (dry contacts) so power transferred is isolated from the fuse inside the board.
Hi there
That was impressive. Wanted to ask you a quick one: is it possible to either
1. Upload your own firmware to the gateway, yet ensure the gateway keeps talking to the sensors. This will help me pull the data onto my own AWS IOT platform and APP, or
2. If 1. Isn't possible, replace all of the firmware with my own and get all the data where I wants it.
Cheers
Yes and yes. Watch the follow up video with tasmota flashing on both boards
Good Morning, I have following question. I had R2 and was able to set up interlocking using hardware and inching using software so I had both functions working same time. I just bought R3 because I needed to program more then 1 RF transmitter to 1 chancel but now I can not have inching and interlocking same time. Do you know if there is a way to do so on R3? Thank You in advance
If you flash it you can resolve this with NodeRed. notenoughtech.com/home-automation/inching/
@@notenoughtech Thank you for such quick reply but unfortunately unlike you :) I'm not that tech savvy and not familiar with flashing. I guess I have to go back to R2 and maybe buy RF bridge and using scenes program 2 RF remotes to work one channel on 4chPRO. Thank you again
It's less complicated than you think and you can use it on not flashed devices too thanks to ewelink api notenoughtech.com/home-automation/ewelink-api-in-nodered/
Does any of there devices have power metering capability.
Take a look at the POW Elite for the power meter function in good current rating
Hi, I was abt to ask the same question !!
Hi,
can you probably test the Sonoff 4CH (Pro) R3 with Tasmota 9.3.1?
There is an open issue in Tasmota Github that this tasmota version is not running on this HW.
Would be great. Thanks
8.3.1 works correctly. But the ota fails. Is there a specific feature on 9.3 that you are after? I'm a bit pressed on time to do the hardware flash to test it.
@@notenoughtech
It's not me, who had the issue.
If your OTA failed, even with the zipped bin files (e.g. tasmota-minimal.bin.gz; that's a must now due to size), the issue should be further investigated at tasmota github.
Thanks for your support.
@@schreinerjoerg I tried the minimal first but that also failed. The doc reference mentioned proper firmware path to go to 9.x.x so for now I had to give up
The end/outtro of your video is so loud! I had to throw my headphones off at the end... Haha. Please adjust in the future. Thanks for the great content though!
Sorry about that. I will tweak it a little. I'm thinking about updating the intro a little bit
Hi Mat, I have a problem. I have change the password on my router and now my Sonoff 4CH Pro R2 no longer connected to my wifi. How do I do a factory reset on sonoff ? Is there a way to do it ? Hope you can help me on this. Thanks in advance
Hold the button 1 for 5 sec if I remember correctly
@@notenoughtech I tried that. But it doesn't seem to work. I google in the web, some said cannot be reset.
@@waynenergy RF can't be reset (just overwritten) I assume it's not flashed with tasmota right? If you struggle make a hotspot on your phone then use ewelink to remove device when connected
@@notenoughtech no, not flashed with tasmota. Hotspot using my phone. Phone name change to my said and password set to the old password to link ?
Yes that's correct. Sonoff will think it's the old SSID
Hi.....quick question.....I’ve had a reply back from itead who said that it will only support ONE remote control? They did seem somewhat confused mind you and so I’m asking you instead 🙂. Are you sure that 4 remotes can be paired? Have you tried more than one? Any info would be most appreciated. Many thanks.
Hmm... If is stated specifically that 4 remotes were supported then that's the info I was given. I'd have to go through my emails to see what's up. I remember reading one of the pdf docs or pages about this as I had issues unbinding the RF remote.
I only have one remote but I was able to bind 2 buttons to a single relay which supports my theory ;)
@@notenoughtech hmmm.... Ta for replying...... Let me get my head around that one and I'll get back to you 🤔🙂👍
No worries ;)
hi (again).....I’ve taken the plunge and ordered one of the R3s......however, I already have one of the R2s which does only allow one remote to be paired BUT (and I’m hoping you know the answer to this) I’m wondering if these cloning remotes will allow me to use more than one....any thoughts? Have you seen/used these? Thanks for help.......cloning link can be seen here..... ruclips.net/video/l-k_XvkZ0jE/видео.html
Is it work with SmartLife App?
I haven't tried it but chances are that it may be seen as a relay.
My Sonoff is responding to my car key. Every time I open or close my car, all Sonoff channels switch on or off. It responds to every VW, Skoda, and Seat car key.
Would be possible to add I2C expander to it?
Yes .. there are spare pins to add the I2C via tasmota
Great test and information as always ! I have some universal 433 Mhz remotes in use allready, do you know if these could be paired with the 4CH PRO instead of the Sonoff remote ?
Frankly speaking, I have not tried it. You would be 1st ti find out ;)
Sonoff 4 button remotes aren't very expensive if yours won't work
@@notenoughtech Thx for quick reply, and indeed not expensive but I would have to pair those with my existing garage door and not sure that would work either ... I would have to go all Sonoff then I guess :-)
Any particular reason you are going with RF for this? It's more vulnerable security wise than WiFi.
@@notenoughtech I am replacing an existing gate opener that works with RF now, and want to limit impact on the end users. Usage of an app with Wifi is the new feature I will introduce .
Fair enough ;)
I'm testing long range zigbee right now.
Hi how to delete a registered device from the eWelink App sir
Go to a device in ewelink then in device settings scroll all the way down . You should see the option to remove it
@@notenoughtech thk u... got it ... 🙂
@@bijanpal6948 no problem buddy
Let me remind you that unless otherwise agreed in writing between the distributor, the supplier and the consumer the voltage declared in respect of a low voltage supply shall be 230 volts between the phase and neutral conductors at the supply terminals. It used to be 240V; it never was 220V. The change in the UK (and the EU) was according to International Standard IEC 60038, IEC standard voltages, defines a set of standard voltages for use in low voltage and high voltage AC and DC electricity supply systems. Thank you for your attention.
Hi, great video, thanks for all info. I just want to ask a question about the DC input. I could not find any information about its pin configuration in any of the documentation of the product. They just simply draw a single line for DC connection. But what is the config for it? Is center pin positive of negative? Do you have any information (or tested the connector) about this? Thanks
There are no markings, but usually, the middle pin is positive.
@@notenoughtech yes you are right, I tested with a 9v adapter with center pin positive configuration and device worked fine.Thank you.
@@m.yldraymeric6045 no probs happy to help
Thanks for the great video! I would like to control the 4ch Pro R3 module such that all four relays switch simultaneously in response to a button press. Is that possible? Is it also possible to switch a second pro R3 module from the same button press but with a delay of a few seconds?
If you flash it with tasmota you will have the control you need over each unit with the ability to trigger all channels on 2 units at the same time. I also made interlocking and inching in node red - see my page for relevant articles.