How to Install Tire Chains On a Semi Truck
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- Опубликовано: 14 дек 2018
- Learn step-by-step instructions on how to put chains on a Semi truck- watch the video. www.smartdrivetest.com/pass-r... SUBSCRIBE TODAY! ► / smartdrivetest
There isn't a CDL driver alive that likes fitting chains to his/her vehicle. Chaining up sucks. Here we'll give you step-by-step instructions on how to fit snow chains to your semi-truck. Most of the time, chains will be fitted to the front axle owing to the fact that this axle if equipped with the differential lock. The differential lock causes the wheels to spin at the same rpms.
Also, if the truck is loaded heavy (140,000lbs or 63,500kg) then 2 axles will have to be chained to get sufficient traction.
Some vocational trucks will be fitted with both differential locks and inter-axles locks (lockers) which will lock the the wheels across the axles and between the axles. If you have all these engaged, you may have to disengage these to get the vehicle around a corner.
BC Ministry of Transportation and Infrastructure: Commercial Motor Vehicle Chain Configurations Handout: www.smartdrivetest.com/truck-...
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This is the best instructional video for putting a heavy set of triples on!
Hi Kathryn Snow - And you are most welcome. We're happy to hear we could help out. If there is anything further we can do, drop us a note. Always happy to help. All the best, Cheers Rick
When I first started watching I thought the background looked familiar. I live 2 minutes from there.
Go onto Inland Kenworth often.
Great video for those that have limited chain up experiences.
I got taught by an old trucker years ago. Best driving lesson I ever got.
Hi donziperk - Thank you for your comment. Yup - it's a beginner video to get new drivers started. And yes, Kenworth here in town lets me use their trucks to shoot videos. I give them a shoutout, and I get access to equipment. One of my students worked in the "patch" and he knows a lot more about chaining up than I do. I ran up and down the eastern seaboard, so not much call for chains. All the best, Cheers Rick
Thx Rick. Very informative & straightforward. I'm glad you didn't edit out the 'oops' of not rolling quite far enough to find the slack. It happens to us all.😁
With 17 years OTR, plus 9 years in the oilfield, I'm always looking for new tips & tricks.
You never get enough experience to stop learning.
I drive a double bottom with full lockers. I run lots of off-road, & I chain up quite a bit.
I happened to notice something in your vid that may be confusing to the newer generation of drivers. At 7:50, you are talking about engaging the inter-axle, but it seems to imply that(in a tandem WITHOUT separate locking diffs) engaging the inter-axle would actually lock the entire front drive axle differential, when it merely interlocks both axles.
I do agree that if one drive axle is going to be chained, it should be the front drive. However, the reasoning is that (loaded/empty/bobtail, on level ground with proper weight distribution) the front drive axle always has more traction due to the fact that it is closer to the tractor's center of gravity.
It also extends the life of your chains because they don't scrub through turns.
I just thought you may want to review how that point is presented & clarify for the viewers.
Thanks again for the vid.👍
Hi Louis Becker - Thank you for your great comment my friend. As you said, we never stop learning. I've been in the driving industry for decades, and I teach it here on the channel. And it's because of smart drivers such as yourself that I'm continually learning more and more about this industry. Here in Vernon where I live, the logging trucks roll through all day. I often think how little I know about that aspect of trucking. All the best, Cheers Rick
Mr. Becker, you REALLY understand the physics of this stuff! I LOVE it! Thank you for your clear explanation which makes me really understand why! You are one of a kind! Many thanks!
🤘
Good job Rick, well done!
Excellent video on chaining your tires Rick.
Hi sebastien porsenna - We're happy to hear we could help out. If there is anything further we can do, drop us a note. Always happy to help. All the best, Cheers Rick
Awesome demonstration thank you
Hi @user-ko9dp3hj5t - you are most welcome my friend. Drop us a note if we can help further my friend. All the best, Cheers Rick
hi your this video is very helpful.thankyou so much keep going good work .
Hi Mrs Zubair - Thank you for your comment. And we're happy to hear that we could help out. If there is anything further we can do, drop us a note. Always happy to help. All the best, Cheers Rick
Thank you it is a Very informative video, I know everyone does it differently but from my experience it works best to hook the middle first as tight as you can then the inside then the outside tire it helps to get them tighter and depending on the hook on the chains I always hook the first link then the next tightest link that way you don’t have the extra links flying around beating your truck and/or trailer
Keep up to great work on the videos
I just passed all my class A cdl tests Friday!
Hi Resolute Lane - that is a awesome news. Would you stop over at the Smart Drive Test and register your success with our 100K campaign - www.smartdrivetest.com/contact/donation
Thank you for letting us know. I'm sure you had a huge celebration, and it is well deserved owing to your study & practice. If there is anything further we can do, drop us a note. Always happy to help. All the best, Cheers Rick 🏎 PS - do you have any job prospects lined up?
@@smartdrivetest I just got a job for a small wood company making deliveries with tractor trailers and box trucks starting at 18$ an hour
Hi Resolute Lane - Thank you for your reply. That sounds like a great job to start working as a professional driver. After you get a bit of experience, you can do whatever driving job you chose. If we could ask a favour--if you haven't done so already--and get you to register your success with the 100K campaign, that would be awesome: www.smartdrivetest.com/contact/donation Let us know where you are in the world and we'll add you to the Map of SUCCESS my friend: www.smartdrivetest.com/successful-smart-drivers All the best, Cheers Rick
Great video!
Hi Pamela Barnes - you are most welcome my friend. Drop us a note if we can help further. All the best, Cheers Rick
No one likes to chain up. The more you do it. The better you get. It could save your life or someone else's. When in doubt. Chain up. Chain law or not.
I always found it best to set up with the chains draped over the front of the tire with a bunched up bit of the chain you have to drive over when you pull ahead...then you can lift them up more to the top of the tire kinda the 2 oclock position hook the inner cam arm first then the middle both as tight as you can get them. Then hook the end of the outter cam arm to the last link....yank that as hard as you can to pull the whole chain tight so you can grab any slack you might have on the inner and middle then unhook the cam arm and sorta hold it to the chain about where you think you can lock it to...slip the cam arm through that link then also slide the last link onto the cam arm and lock it into place and hook up the latch link apply any bungies you might have handy or may need and move onto the next chain. All told maybe 4 or 5 mins to throw and hook a tripple when you get some practice at it.
Ohh the idea behind slipping the last link over the cam arm when you lock it down is so you dont have 4 or 5 links of chain flying around ripping up fenders and any thing right above the tire like a trailer with possibly a wireing harness right in that area.
Did you start with the boomers facing the front (closest to cab)?
The majority of triple chains may be put on facing either direction. Only once in my many years of experience, I came across a pair of triple chains that connected with quick hooks('J' hooks), but only had cam tighteners on one of the outside rails. In that case, the cams had to go on the outside of the tires.
Here in the oilfield, direction & types of fasteners can have some relevance.
Often I find myself running through deep mud, snow, ice chunks, frozen ruts, etc. In these conditions, you will always have some degree of wheel-spin with the drives. When that's the case, boomers can get damaged, bent & even broken quite easily. That's why I prefer to have chains with the quick hooks because you can install them with the hooks hanging over the front of the drive tires, and the chain tails to the rear. That way, if you get significant wheel spin, the rounded part of the hooks will push off from any foreign objects, rocks, or frozen chunks hiding in the deep stuff that could rub the sidewalls and bend, damage & possibly even straighten out the hooks if the chains were facing in the opposite direction, causing them to fall off.
Again, if you're just running highway mountain passes that are plowed periodically during snowfall, there isn't much to worry about coming into contact with the sidewalls & damaging whatever type of chain fasteners you may have. Direction of installation won't matter.
Any suggestions making them super tight I have cam style as a car hauler lose chains can damage the deck underneath and rip it out
Excellent job rick and I'm not sure if there are signs for truck drivers to put in Chains because here in the Northeast some of the mountainous sections of interstate highways don't have signs that tells a truck driver to put a chain on those situations
Hi EpicThe112 - Thank you for your comment. And yes, in many weather situations it is up to the driver's discretion to install chains. I watched a driver in a set of tanker Super 'Bs' down by Nelson tear up the truck because s/he refused to get out and throw on a set of chains. Indeed, many hills don't have chain up signs. All the best, Cheers Rick
So which is the better way to go 4 single chain on all outside drives or 2 pair of triple rails on the front drive axle only? running highway
One thing I alway do when I take off my chains I put them on the rack or in a milk crate in an orderly fashion so when I need them again they aren’t a tangled mess for me or the next guy.
Hi donziperk - Thank you for your valuable comment. Yes, if the chains are put away neatly, or stored on the hanger neatly, it makes it so much more efficient to mount the chains. All the best, Cheers Rick
How much does one weigh, the triple one as shown? I saw it was included on the Sure Hire video. You have to do squats with them and then walk around the truck with them too.
I need to practice so what do you suggest I do in the gym?
Hi Driven home - Thank you for your question. The chains are less than 50lbs (23kg). All the best, Cheers Rick
Good video! I don’t drive truck but chains interest me. I’d like to get a set for my pickup for driving on slick fsr’s
Do you have a brand you recommend?
They all are the same. Really cannot go wrong.
thank,s you for the information, in BC single chain is accepted or need a double chain
Hi Michel Berthelette - you can use a single on a trailer or a steer, but you'll need triples for the tandems. Drop us a note if we can help further my friend. All the best, Cheers Rick
Singles used to be legal on drive axles, but not anymore. Singles are super handy for off highway when you just need to slap some on quickly for a short climb.
In your intro in the second photo who is that driving the bus
Hi Hall Phase - Thank you for your query. That's a picture of me driving coaches in Australia. It the same picture that's on the RUclips channel art. All the best, Cheers Rick
Chain up areas are usually clogged with trucks Who don't want to put chains on.
That’s because most drivers don’t get paid enough to chain. I run I-5 and I won’t chain under any circumstances. I’d rather wait it out than spend 45 minutes chaining just to keep running at 25 miles an hour. For an owner operator it’s probably worth it to keep moving. For low wage company guys, it isn’t worth the headache.
Here if you're in the chain up area not actively throwing chains you get a ticket or towed. Maybe both
Where are you located? Cheers Rick
I haven't been OTR for 10 years now, but as I remember, if Caltrans(or whatever authority is in your location) sees a truck in a chain up area with an empty drivers seat & no one putting on chains, they call a wrecker... & the only way your truck leaves that chain up area is behind that wrecker, or if the driver chains up.
Chain fell off and I bent the hooks. Any idea how to fix the bent hooks? Is there a tool? Thanks
There isn't a tool that I'm aware of other than a vice and a pry bar my friend. Let us know if you find something. All the best, Cheers Rick
@@smartdrivetest bought tire chain pliers $99 from FGI
Is this as easier as it looks
Hi Hall Phase - Thank you for your comment. And no, because as I said in the video, most of the time when you're fitting chains to the wheel, it's dark, it's snowing and you're either standing in snow or mud up to your ankles. And often there's a trailer on which makes fitting chains that much tougher. All the best, Cheers Rick
Where on the truck do you keep the chains?
Hi Driven home - Thank you for your question. You can either keep them in the jockey box, or there are hangers on the truck where the chains are stored. If there is anything further we can do, drop us a note. Always happy to help. All the best, Cheers Rick
One thing I always do when I’m taking my chains off is put them on the racks or in a milk crate in an orderly fashion so when I need them they again they aren’t a tangled mess for me or the next guy.
Peguele 400 o 500 martillazos a los eslabones y no necesita reajustar ..
What brand and who do you buy from?
Hi Joe Colwell - are you running a LOT or a LITTLE in the mountains my friend? All the best, Cheers Rick
@@smartdrivetest I run back roads and quarry hills in south to central Ontario. No mountains but icey hills that u gotta pull down to 1st gear hauling 140000lbs good km long
@@RodeoJoe1981 Nordic or tryggs, studded triples are the ticket the ones without studs are pretty useless. The lightweight ones hold up fairly well unless you start chewing then only the heavy ones hold up.
@@banffdigger who's the best to buy from?
@@RodeoJoe1981 In BC pretty much all the truck dealers have the commonly used ones in stock, out in Ontario probably have to order online or call around, my brother was able to find a set in Brandon Manitoba that held up to some chewing to get a super b out of a drifted in road after he blew up a cheap set.
Wrong.
First a warning-- if you're chaining on a slope -- you damned well lock up all your brakes -- and don't F around on that inside boomer and NEVER between axles and NEVER underneath it if possible. Get it on move to flat surface - readjust. If it rolls on you or slides you be ready to get the F out.
1) Always the centre first. Drape. When draping make sure links are perpendicular to the tire or 90 degrees. Pull the edges up to put slack on center. Make sure cross links are still at 90. Hook center up as tight as possible. You'll get on top link.
2) Inside boomer next as tight as possible. IMPORTANT - wrap excess chain back onto boomer then hook to chain link -- OR it will take out air bag.
3) outside boomer last.
4) drive 2 minutes, stop, tighten. Inside. Outside.
5) chain middle or front - why? The back axles are hitting squished snow even ice by then. The front axle has best chance of traction - if you're 60 tons - in a tridem - by the time a rear hits that spot it's had 120 tons on it - compacted.
Hi Mike Munro - Thank you for that information. It sounds like you've done a lot of chaining my friend!? The thing with chains for most drivers is that they're lucky if they have one set for the rear. All too often they're not going to have more than that. And like you said, never get in under the vehicle unless it's on the flat. All the best, Cheers Rick
@@smartdrivetest you're 5x the driver I am. Unfortunately I work at a mine and did highway to mine run as well and got Ok at chains. I had an old timer grab me by my scruff and yank me out from under the truck once and he told me you do that again I'll kill you myself, lol. So kids, you watch those slopes. F the truck. Let it go.
All good stuff, also air up the suspension if you can, it will give you more room to work. And when you get to the outside boomer, just hook it on the last link. Gives you slack to pull and get more slack from the tire portion.
Yes you’ll get your chains on but he’s showing you a difficult way to do it at the start and missing some important things. Try draping your chains on like he does when you’re hooked to a trailer and you’ll be fighting like hell to just get them on the tire let alone hooked up.
Hi Grumpy Munchkin - Thank you for your comment. We're alway open to better ways to install chains. What is the easier and better way to get the chains installed? All the best, Cheers Rick
I'm still waiting for the reply, myself.
I would assume Grumpy Munchkin might be referring to dropping your trailer before chaining the tractor(?).
Degree of difficulty vs time invested.
Different strokes for different folks...
If you dont have room to get the chains on with a trailer attached you should probably not be using them, they will tear up the trailer and the chains.
@@Bendigo1
Just make sure the chains stay snug & tame those loose tails.
I run a double-bottom in the oilfield, & have fenders above the drives with about 6 inches of clearance.
The quickest & easiest way I've found to manage the chain tails is to slide the end link up the 'J' hook, & then hook on your chosen link to get that rail snug. It'll hold all those loose links up out of the way and keep them from slapping your fenders & the road surface.
@@louisbecker5941 yes i do the same thing. I usually dont even hear the chains when i have them on. I can tell if i break a link that way. My point was that if you dont have room to drape the chains its too tight to be using chains.