How to Build Your First Wargaming Board for Kill Team and Warcry
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 29 ноя 2020
- If you're interested in building a wargaming board I might have some tips for you. This video contains techniques I use to build my boards for wargaming. The video focuses on building a board for skirmish games like Kill Team or Warcry, but can be expanded to Combat Patrol
Hopefully, this video will help you start building your own terrain or add more things to your arsenal.
Drop a like if you enjoyed the video!
#wargamingterrain #wargamingboard #wargaming 
Хобби
Hey everyone. I'd like to mention one thing about ISO that I don't say in the video. Use low dilutions, no more than 10%. You can have it in a separate bottle mixed with water or added directly to the watered-down glue. Be safe out there and enjoy your hobby!
Sorry to be so off topic but does any of you know a method to get back into an Instagram account..?
I was dumb forgot my login password. I would appreciate any tips you can offer me!
@Enrique Dario Instablaster =)
@Duke Fox thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now.
I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Duke Fox It worked and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thank you so much, you saved my account !
@Enrique Dario No problem =)
I've build alot of terrain, boards and all kinds of scatter pieces but i can't get enough of watching boards being build. It is soothing and always inspirational. Great video man.
Same here. It's fun watching someone elses creative process.
Great! Thanks. You've pprovided a LOT of very useful information (sizes, material needed, etc.). This video is definitely 1 to keep around as a reference.
This is a great tutorial. Very in depth. Bravo!
bit of advice to new builders if you have low space id recommend building modular boards as it allows you to build large boards and keep them compact and store them much easier and also allows you to throw in some variety in terms of you playing field plus id recommend putting you structures on a very thin bit of wood or rigid foam with a bit of felt on the base as it also allows for ease of storage and modularity.
True, however modular boards still take up space and storing them one on top of the other may actually destroy what's on them besides if you lay them out on the table their edges make a visible grid pattern (Geek Gaming Scencis made a video about those issues). It's something worth considering if you're going for more realistic look. 😁
I personally keep my building bases the same width and depth as the building to make them look a bit more realistic on the board.
Very entertaining, informative and inspiring. Thanks for putting this together.
Thanks for watching, and I am glad that you found it to be informative :D
Wonderful video. It gave me a lot of time saving ideas. Please keep up the great work!
Thanks! I've been meaning to revise this video and make it more digestable. Good to know that it's still helpful.
Absolutely EXCELLENT video! I love the three stage approach - as someone about to embark on their first game board, it makes it much less intimidating. Thank you and a new sub 😊
Thanks! I am glad that you found it helpful!
Very helpful in getting me started for my DnD sessions. Plus, your accent is super soothing! lol
Thanks! I am glad I could help :D
Thank you for this tutorial! Been looking for a tutorial to make a Garden of Nurgle board, and this is gonna give me the push in the right direction.
Glad I could help! If you haven't seen it I have video on how I make my own Nurgle Board :D
@@coffeetablewargaming I went and checked out your other videos after watching this one and saw that you had just that. Thanks again!
Thanks for the tutorial man! / Absolutely inspirational for a begginer like me. I will do mi 6x4 table with your techniques and report the results here. Subscribed! Please more vodeos coming for boardgames and landscape scenography please!! Thanks a lot
Awesome! Make sure that you have enough space for 6x4 table, because it's huge. More videos will come, but I recently had no time to make them :D
Woooow!! NIce work! I've seen different tutorials to begin crafting my board and I found yours so easy and finely explained!! I really liked your commment "Support your local hobby stores....not overpriced plants" Thanks for your video!!
Thanks for watching! And I am glad you found it helpful.
Great video, very inspirational
This looks amazing good job!
Thanks!, And thanks for watching. I am glad it was helpful :D
I like how you are using the methods that i have recently figured out myself :D
And now we both have confirmation that they work :D
This was a FANTASTIC tutorial. Thorough, great commentary regarding issues and successes you have throughout the project, and your sense of exploration and experiment is well placed. You deserve way more subs.
The bit about the chalk was brilliant. Can you seal chalk with the PVA-Iso-Water mixture?
Hey! Thanks for watching and commenting! Since I have started only 2 months ago RUclips doesn't like me very much yet :D You should be able to seal chalk or pastels with scenic glue, but you have to be careful. Too much water can activate the pigment and it'll either float away or dry very blotchy and in different places after being moved. I'd recommend applying it in a mist form through an airbrush or atomizer. Or if your layer underneath is thick enough or you don't use polistyrene you can use hairspray or sealant like 'ardcoat. I hope that answers your question :D
@@coffeetablewargaming I'll give that a go. The colors available for chalk is just so tempting.
We need to see more of your terrain builds, tips & tricks, etc. As I said, extremely helpful. A lot of obvious stuff but the step-by-step teach is so useful.
Thanks! I have been waiting to make a wars of cadia board, this is inspiring
Ooooh 😲 that sounds interesting. I'm glad I coud help 😁
Good thematic battle reps, nicely painted minis, ascetically pleasing boards a tutorial and a badass name, Xerxes (or is it Xerxis?), to boot? Subscribed :D.
Haha! Thanks! I am glad that you like the content. And it's Xerxes :D
This is awesome! Great tutorial. Thank you for this.
Fantastic. I hope it helps! :D
can't believe you only have 367 subs! well u have 368 now, great content!
Thanks! And welcome to the group of 368 :D
Just found your channel. The Potato as a proxy got a Sub and a Like :D EPIC! I like your style sir.
Hey! Sorry for not replying for a while! Thanks! I need to return to making content. 😅
Thanks for sharing your great talent
Thank you ver much, and thanks for watching!
Huh. I came here to learn how to make boards but I find Jeremy Irons is hosting this show. Subscribed.
Damn! I have to say that I tried to come up with a clever response to that and I've got nothing..... It's very frustrating.... I guess I have to go somewhere.... and use every ounce of my rage.....to make blood rain from the sky....... 😵
Very cool board for Warcry mate ^_^
Thanks! And thanks for dropping by and watching :D
Nowadays everybody plays on the undemanding playmats.. it is good to see that creating gaming boards is not dead.
They both have their place. I think that bigger battle reports are done on mats because it's easier from the production and storage standpoint. Conversely creating boards has become easier than let's say a few years ago I think.
Nice work. I'm going to have to buy some coconut fiber for myself. I thought about buying the stringy stuff and then blitzing it up in a cheap coffee grinder...
Yes that can work. It will give you a different texture. You can also put lichen into the grinder to create even more variety :D
I find it somewhat funny, that this is basically how you do terrarium backgrounds too. You use a piece of flat cork panel, or torch a foam board, then cover the surface with cocofibers, and whipe it off. Perhaps it would be an idea to see a few videos on that for inspiration? those are made to withstand a litteral animal going haywire in their enclosure. I think Serpa design is a decent place to start.
With an exception of toxic chemicals :P. Thanks for the suggestion I'll have a look when I have a chance :D
Thank you so much good sir♥️♥️
Now we have board games with my cousins to play
Awesome. Enjoy your games! :D
Love that intro
haha! Thanks :D
thanks for the inspiration!
Thanks for watching. I'm glad it was helpful.
My man looks like he smokes a cigarette and drinks coffee for breakfast and hasn't slept in 20 years 🤣 great video 👍
You mean I look like a typical basement dweller? 😂 and thanks for watching BTW.
Please get some lights so we can see what you have done. When you display the finished board its just a dark shape.
Great video but the dimensions should be more generic. You can always block off an area if you are playing a specific game with weird dimension (22"x30" is weird).
The games I play are ideally on a 36"x36" (Stargrave, Frostgrave, Five Parsecs, Bug Hunt). A more thin table makes it easier to store.
I just made a board made with 3/4" plywood; which goes on top of my dining table but it is thin enough to store easily. Though.. it is quite heavy.
Great idea with the Conte Crayon!
Thanks for watching! The video is aimed at Kill Team and Warcry systems which use those dimensions (and yes they are a bit weird but what can you do). I am currently preparing for Fallout Wasteland Warfare which also uses 36"x36" so I am going to use two 18"x36" XPS boards put together. Plywood is fine and you can have it custom cut to your preferences, but it can be surprisingly suceptible to bending so I wouldn't store it at too much of an angle
22" by 30" is becoming the new standard. It fits great on 90% of stores game tables.
500th subscriber
Nice! Congratulations! :D
totally with you on the "how much space a gaming table takes up!!" Just finished building a modular 24"x48" x3 panels.... yeah they interchange and can make many awesome set ups, but STORAGE...... what to do!!!
Nice one! It all depends on what the panels are made of, what's on them and whether you live in a house or in a flat. You can always try risking it and cutting those panels in half to have 24"x24" pieces that can be stacked on top of each other.
That crack in the ground would look cool black with glowing magma ^_^
That's an idea for another board :P
You know, there's a somewhat better choice for the base forms for boards. The thicker laser cut plywood shapes comes to about the same price as the foam and is far sturdier.
I've been going with 1 foot square ones. Then I have a mix of builders sand and a really fine sand for a material on it...and have found that you can get a far better result using cheap superglue.
Spread it across the wood, cover it with the sand mix, let it sit for a couple minutes, dump the excess off (Make sure to clean the edges), then soak it through with more glue and let sit for a few hours and it's pretty much a solid rock at that point. I then use a layer of cheap, grey spray paint over the entire thing, then a heavy load of thinned brown ink, let that dry, then use an even more thinned black ink, let it dry, drybrush with a warm off white.
I add some rocks to it that are glued on and let to cure before I add the sand. Then I use the cheap, white apple barrel paint from their larger craft bottles to cover the rocks after I hit the board with the brown ink. You can mix different inks to leopard spot it if you want, but the black ink followed by the drybrush and a couple more drybrushes (I add a cold off white drybrush and a white one) to differentiate it from the rest.
Then flock as you want.
Having the 1' squares as a base piece allows you to store them rather easily and stack the basic ones up. It also means that if you want to make some interesting pieces to mix in with integral hills or the like, you can do it without trapping your board to a single thing.
If you want a more city, ruins, or dungeon board, start with the same squares, but get the cheap dollar tree foamcore, peel one side and use mod podge or white glue/pva to attach it to the board. Put some weights on it and let it dry. When fully dry, peel the other side and start using a sharp craft knife and ballpoint pen to work in stonework. I then "prime" it with a thinned down grey craft paint (Normally just a cheap white with some water and black ink added) and cover it...then I look for areas that I'm not fully happy with and add a few patches of the sand mix to look like rubble. Then I tend to just use the grey spray paint over the entire thing to get a simple starting point. I hit the sandy areas with the same as I do for the main boards, but use a less thinned black for the entire thing and let it dry. I then use a variety of drybrushes over the board for it.
You can also layer the foamcore to make sidewalks and raised areas.
And, while a bit more expensive, if you want an easy few grass ones, look in the train section for the grass mats they have and cut them to match the squares and modpodge/pva them together.
You can even mix all three by making some boarder pieces where one type mixes with the others by making edges of the stonework or just tearing the paper of the grass to form things (Or add a thin working of the foamcore around the edge as a sidewalk around some of the grass to make a park area).
If you start adding hills and things to the mix, it can build up a larger collection rather quickly and there are some interesting things that can be done. I've got a few that I took some old model railway O-Scale pieces and attached them that was originally part of an old west setup and some others that I created from there for a railyard which was a great thing for some smaller skirmishes.
Hey, thanks for writing that post. I went through that phase as well and I can personally say that I am not a fan of using those materials for various reasons; price as well as availability in my country and working time among other things. Having said that I am well aware that my solution isn't be all end all absolutely perfect (although I'll still die on the hill defending tile grout :P). If your method is cheaper and allows you to create boards that you're happy with then don't let me tell you how to do your hobby :D, go crazy and create awesome stuff!
Great video! Glad I found your account. Do you find the board edges get knocked easily and damaged? Any ways you think that they could be more durable for gaming clubs etc? Thanks dude 🤘😎👍
They do get damaged with use, but I usually just repaint them brown (or black) and fix any patches with tile grout mix or flock. So it has never been a big deal for me :D
@coffee table wargaming thanks, that's what I do with mine. I have made an mdf frame with some but this makes them heavier
If that's your real first name that's awesomely bad ass. If it's a nickname still cool but if it's your given name then your parents were good people
I wish! :D
@@coffeetablewargaming great board though btw lol that looks great
Hey, quick question: you speak of some sort of grout. I'm not a native speaker and to me it sounds like "tire grout", which I couldn't find. Tile grout I know, but that's usually a white paste. So what am I missing?
Any help would be greatly appreciated :)
Hey. It's "tile grout" as in what you put between the tiles in the bathroom. It is a powder that you mix with water to make a paste-like substance. If you look around you can find it in different colours. I hope that helps. :D
Hi thank you for the video: what is your mix ratio for the white glue, alcohol and water? (26:09 in the video gluing down everything) thank you in advance!
Greg
Roughly 15% glue 5% alcohol 80% water. Or you can use a couple of drops of dish soap or dealer rowney flow improver instead of alcohol.
@@coffeetablewargaming Thank you very much!
Wonderful tutorial, thanks for uploading! ;)
One question, though: What is the ratio of tile grout to coconut fibre substrate, please?
Many thanks ;)
Thanks for watching! The ratio depends on the final result you want to achieve. The more grout the finer the texture, the more fiber the more coarse the texture. However the finer the texture the harder it sticks to the surface :D
@@coffeetablewargaming Thanks for the reply. With that info in mind, I think I'll probably mix it up a bit across the board.
I'm making a 4-piece modular 4' x 4' battleboard, for historical gaming, with a British Isles influenced landscape; rolling hills, meandering river/stream, boggy/marshy areas.
It's my first ever attempt at a build; learning curves coming off of learning curves and fun!
Nice one! Rivers and streams can be tricky and a bit expensive since they require resin to produce best results (in my experience), but dried out brook or a stream can work quite nicely. If you want to add wheat fields I can recommend coconut doormats :D
20:43 DID I HEAR A ROCK AND STONE
RROCK AND STONE!
Who knew CM Punk was a terrain guy?
😂 I had to google the guy... no kidding 🤣
How do you do your own sculptor mold?
I use standard printer paper that I shred in a shredder. Soak it in water to make a pulp then add plaster. Proportions can be a bit tricky though.
@@coffeetablewargaming nice thank you. I could try 1:1 ratio, 2:1 and 3:1 in weight paper VS plaster and check the results. Never tried before but sounds like nice challenge