Top Job! I made a beginners guide on this kit (but the one in the Pearl Harbor gift set) and the colours didn't look right to me. Your paint scheme looks much better!
Well done, Jason. Another great build. Nice little model. Because of this video I might consider buying this kit, too ! ;-) To get a nice metallic blue color for the wheel wells, I mix Revell 90 Silver with a bit of Tamiya transparent blue X-23 and a tiny dot of transparent (!!) yellow X-24. The metallic blue on the final result should lean very slightly towards a greenish hue. To make sure the color, especially the end result, does not become too transparent, I mix the silver and blue in a 80-20 ratio at first. Lots of silver and a little blue. I then spray the models parts. Only a bit of paint is used. From now on, I only add transparent blue (and yellow). Spray another layer. Add more blue, spray another layer..etc...etc...The amount of silver decreases in your airbrush cup, the amount of blue increases. Always leave some silver in the cup. Do not end with transparent blue, alone. End with silver-blue in a 20-80% ratio. This method ensures a good, even coverage and a nice opaque, glossy result. The engine cowlings of a Zero are - in most cases - painted in a (fairly) glossy finish, very dark blue. NOT deep black !!! A ratio of about 1 drop of black (Revell 7) and 1 drop of blue (Revell 51) should work. To get razor sharp outlines on the wing tip lights, use the tip of a VERY sharp, pointed knife (f.i. surgical blade #11) and - with a very steady hand (.......) gently cut the lines of where you want the light to be. Do NOT remove the edges, do not sand !! Simply apply some thinned transparent paint, in two or three layers. The paint will flow nicely along the engraved line, leaving a razor sharp edge. I apply this technique to WW1 airplanes, if I decide not to airbrush but to hand paint the red-white-blue flag on the rudder. Once painted and dry, the cut line is invisible and with some practise, the separation line is a lot sharper than when using tape and airbrushing it !
Well built. 😉👏👍 I'm about to start one of those next week, as soon as it arrives. Being that you have the wingtips folded up you probably should have split the canopy and had it open. I'm afraid that I'm wasting time and money putting p.e. In the cockpit since it's going to have the gear up, in flight configuration and probably won't be able to see all the detail with the canopy closed. I thought those came with a pilot?
Turned out nice again Jason :) To remove adhesive from any surface , use (Zippo) lighter fluid. Please consider investing in a circle cutter in order to make your own decal masks, whilst it gets a little more tricky making RAF roundels, It's a doddle for simple circles and sooooo much better than decals. I haven't used decals for a year now, the results are far superior.
Very nice! I think the panel lines looked better before the wash, but I do make full allowance for artistic tastes. One thing I will pass on as a historical point in regards to the finish. As you rightly pointed out, early in the war the Japanese ground crews took extremely good care of the planes (especially the ones on carriers - corrosion in the salt air is a real 'mutha'). However, what is not as commonly known is that they also WAXED the planes as well. As I understand it, this was done to improve the airflow over the surface to reduce drag and hence improve both range and airspeed (my source for this is the son of an IJN fighter pilot who served from 1938-1944), so a semi-gloss finish might be more appropriate if you choose to take this information as reliable. In any case, I really like the finished model as you have it, and can't wait to dig into my stash and get to work on mine now. Good job!
O dem panel lines! I think it looked better pre wash. It's a very nice model that like looks like no airplane, that I have seen. But it's still a very nice rendition and my perception/taste is just different. However, my views may be in a diminishing minority of model builders. :0) I would prefer a thin wash of XF-76 + X-1 black , mixed to taste, creating a darker shade. The panel lines on "Early New Airfix" don't need much enhancing. De gustibus non est disputandum - In matters of taste, there can be no disputes.
Oh yes the panel lines are a bit ott on the earlier ones, I do try and make a point to lessen the effect but I was just going for a quick build here, thanks for the feedback 👍
Nice build, I noticed your builds are manly 1/72 scale is this your preferred scale? I mainly build 1/72 myself, but due to lack of storage space for the completed kits.
Funnily enough no, I think I prefer 1/48 but for YT 1/72 is a bit easier to get across the line in a timely manner, keep an eye out there is 1/48 & 1/32 on the way....
What do you mean my kit had ghost seams or you get them? I did have some on this build funnily enough due to working fast! Really you should let the build sit once assembled for a day or two, in an ideal world I’d build the kit, fix any obvious seams, add primer and then come back in a few days to finish off any other seams before painting, you can use CA glue for quick builds but it’s brittle so that poses another problem! Really you should be fine if you use Tamiya Extra Thin and leave 24hrs between the build and paint. Also worth noting, some of the more potent paints (lacquer etc.) can attack thin seams so it’s worth checking any areas after paint as well.
I meant I get ghost seams. Very much enjoy your videos. I prime with MRP, add Mr Sufacer if I find any seams Sand again and all appears well. A few days later as I'm finishing the seams reappear😡.
Зачем Вы положили на фонарь маску если всё равно заляпали переплёт. Двигатель матовый чёрный без тонирования металликом вообще не видно. Расшивка местами убита и Вы её не поправили. Деколи местами не дожаты и не прорезаны. Один плюс окрашиваете и собираете аккуратно.
Jason, here is some more nitpicking (just remove this post if inappropriate) : Great picture for color references : airandspace.si.edu/sites/default/files/images/collection-objects/record-images/A19600335000cp06.jpg The machine gun and ammo : en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Type_97_aircraft_machine_gun en.wikipedia.org/wiki/7.7%C3%9758mm_Arisaka Although a black residue can be seen on several WW2 airplanes, later on, many airplanes used a more efficient and smokeless powder, resulting in "clean" wings : no black residue behind the machine guns. If you render a clean and well maintained airplane, there should be no black streaks behind the guns, since they haven't been used enough, yet, to create a "smoke trail", or they simply were washed off. And since this ammo is almost residue free AND because of the strong wind during flight, it takes an awful lot of bullets to create a black streak, to begin with. I wish I knew this many years ago, because now I have a herculean task of removing most of the black streaks on many models......... |-( Out of fear of damaging them, I think I'll just leave them on. On the other side..... I don't build museum quality models. It's only a private collection and few people ever get to see them, anyway. ;-)
Top Job! I made a beginners guide on this kit (but the one in the Pearl Harbor gift set) and the colours didn't look right to me. Your paint scheme looks much better!
That's a great looking Zero very well done , perfectly executed.
My first build ever... in 1976. Love it!
Thanks 👍
Nice! I dig the wing fold feature!🤗
Great job, my friend! Enjoyed the video. Been modeling over 55 years and never get enough of building and watching others. Nice Zero!
Well done, Jason.
Another great build. Nice little model. Because of this video I might consider buying this kit, too ! ;-)
To get a nice metallic blue color for the wheel wells, I mix Revell 90 Silver with a bit of Tamiya transparent blue X-23 and a tiny dot of transparent (!!) yellow X-24. The metallic blue on the final result should lean very slightly towards a greenish hue.
To make sure the color, especially the end result, does not become too transparent, I mix the silver and blue in a 80-20 ratio at first. Lots of silver and a little blue. I then spray the models parts. Only a bit of paint is used. From now on, I only add transparent blue (and yellow). Spray another layer. Add more blue, spray another layer..etc...etc...The amount of silver decreases in your airbrush cup, the amount of blue increases.
Always leave some silver in the cup. Do not end with transparent blue, alone. End with silver-blue in a 20-80% ratio.
This method ensures a good, even coverage and a nice opaque, glossy result.
The engine cowlings of a Zero are - in most cases - painted in a (fairly) glossy finish, very dark blue. NOT deep black !!!
A ratio of about 1 drop of black (Revell 7) and 1 drop of blue (Revell 51) should work.
To get razor sharp outlines on the wing tip lights, use the tip of a VERY sharp, pointed knife (f.i. surgical blade #11) and - with a very steady hand (.......) gently cut the lines of where you want the light to be. Do NOT remove the edges, do not sand !! Simply apply some thinned transparent paint, in two or three layers. The paint will flow nicely along the engraved line, leaving a razor sharp edge.
I apply this technique to WW1 airplanes, if I decide not to airbrush but to hand paint the red-white-blue flag on the rudder. Once painted and dry, the cut line is invisible and with some practise, the separation line is a lot sharper than when using tape and airbrushing it !
Lots of valuable info as always, cheers 👍
Nice build and great little vid
Super Job! Love the Zero...
Lovely build mate. I have this kit in my stash so very tempted to gt this one done sooner rather than later. Thanks for sharing sir.
Get. It. Built! 😉
Very well done!
Well built. 😉👏👍 I'm about to start one of those next week, as soon as it arrives. Being that you have the wingtips folded up you probably should have split the canopy and had it open. I'm afraid that I'm wasting time and money putting p.e. In the cockpit since it's going to have the gear up, in flight configuration and probably won't be able to see all the detail with the canopy closed. I thought those came with a pilot?
I enjoyed this build as well.
My first piece from AirFix...
Greats kits.
Turned out nice again Jason :) To remove adhesive from any surface , use (Zippo) lighter fluid. Please consider investing in a circle cutter in order to make your own decal masks, whilst it gets a little more tricky making RAF roundels, It's a doddle for simple circles and sooooo much better than decals. I haven't used decals for a year now, the results are far superior.
Good advice mate, I’m looking into these things for the future 👍
Very nice! I think the panel lines looked better before the wash, but I do make full allowance for artistic tastes. One thing I will pass on as a historical point in regards to the finish. As you rightly pointed out, early in the war the Japanese ground crews took extremely good care of the planes (especially the ones on carriers - corrosion in the salt air is a real 'mutha'). However, what is not as commonly known is that they also WAXED the planes as well. As I understand it, this was done to improve the airflow over the surface to reduce drag and hence improve both range and airspeed (my source for this is the son of an IJN fighter pilot who served from 1938-1944), so a semi-gloss finish might be more appropriate if you choose to take this information as reliable.
In any case, I really like the finished model as you have it, and can't wait to dig into my stash and get to work on mine now. Good job!
Hello! I watched your great vid another time. I have question. What kind
of super glue you used to glue rigging wire? Thx for your answer.
Nice looking build . How did you find mixing the two Flory washes together ?
How did you do the antenna wire?
O dem panel lines! I think it looked better pre wash. It's a very nice model that like looks like no airplane, that I have seen. But it's still a very nice rendition and my perception/taste is just different. However, my views may be in a diminishing minority of model builders. :0)
I would prefer a thin wash of XF-76 + X-1 black , mixed to taste, creating a darker shade. The panel lines on "Early New Airfix" don't need much enhancing.
De gustibus non est disputandum - In matters of taste, there can be no disputes.
Oh yes the panel lines are a bit ott on the earlier ones, I do try and make a point to lessen the effect but I was just going for a quick build here, thanks for the feedback 👍
Is that a UV light in your paint booth?
Nice build, I noticed your builds are manly 1/72 scale is this your preferred scale? I mainly build 1/72 myself, but due to lack of storage space for the completed kits.
Funnily enough no, I think I prefer 1/48 but for YT 1/72 is a bit easier to get across the line in a timely manner, keep an eye out there is 1/48 & 1/32 on the way....
The decals look over thick on the Hino Marus. Otherwise turned out nicely.
How long do you leave the glued fuselage to set ................keep getting ghost seams!!!
What do you mean my kit had ghost seams or you get them? I did have some on this build funnily enough due to working fast! Really you should let the build sit once assembled for a day or two, in an ideal world I’d build the kit, fix any obvious seams, add primer and then come back in a few days to finish off any other seams before painting, you can use CA glue for quick builds but it’s brittle so that poses another problem! Really you should be fine if you use Tamiya Extra Thin and leave 24hrs between the build and paint. Also worth noting, some of the more potent paints (lacquer etc.) can attack thin seams so it’s worth checking any areas after paint as well.
I meant I get ghost seams. Very much enjoy your videos. I prime with MRP, add Mr Sufacer if I find any seams Sand again and all appears well. A few days later as I'm finishing the seams reappear😡.
where id avable want purchase
三菱の灰色は明灰緑色と呼ばれる緑色がかった灰色と聞きましたが････？
この灰色だと通常の明灰白色みたいですね、
最も零式艦上戦闘機も中島飛行機でも作られていたらしいですから間違いじゃないのかな？
Зачем Вы положили на фонарь маску если всё равно заляпали переплёт. Двигатель матовый чёрный без тонирования металликом вообще не видно. Расшивка местами убита и Вы её не поправили. Деколи местами не дожаты и не прорезаны. Один плюс окрашиваете и собираете аккуратно.
Jason, here is some more nitpicking (just remove this post if inappropriate) :
Great picture for color references :
airandspace.si.edu/sites/default/files/images/collection-objects/record-images/A19600335000cp06.jpg
The machine gun and ammo :
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Type_97_aircraft_machine_gun
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/7.7%C3%9758mm_Arisaka
Although a black residue can be seen on several WW2 airplanes, later on, many airplanes used a more efficient and smokeless powder, resulting in "clean" wings : no black residue behind the machine guns.
If you render a clean and well maintained airplane, there should be no black streaks behind the guns, since they haven't been used enough, yet, to create a "smoke trail", or they simply were washed off.
And since this ammo is almost residue free AND because of the strong wind during flight, it takes an awful lot of bullets to create a black streak, to begin with.
I wish I knew this many years ago, because now I have a herculean task of removing most of the black streaks on many models......... |-(
Out of fear of damaging them, I think I'll just leave them on.
On the other side..... I don't build museum quality models. It's only a private collection and few people ever get to see them, anyway. ;-)
Hate the music, sorry, the video is great otherwise.
I agree it has been changed in the more recent builds, thanks for watching 👍