For drifting : ABS off - ESP off - TCS off - Drift Assist : Sport / In Pro Settings : Put Camber on something like -0.25 / +0.10.......and bring down the Grip Rear Tire a little (default is max - all the way to right, just bring it down 1 or 2 clicks). Something like Mazda RX-7 : fully upgraded, you can just leave it in 3rd and throtlle control the drift / little tap on the brakes to switch angles of the car..... If car is not fully upgraded, then you might need to switch between 3rd and 4th gear.....But anyway, should be able to not lose multiplier and score 200k + in drift, when maxed out with Slippery bonus, that becomes 600-700k in that drift event. (I play on Thrustmaster TS-PC racer with Ferrari 488 Challenge wheel - rotation 360° - force feedback 70 / could lower feedback to 30-40 for drift events, if you find it too strong at 70)
MVP!! I should really practice my drifting but through experimentation I was almost at these settings. I’ll try these out for sure! Going to use the clutch pedal as an e brake until I get one
Ps4/Ps5 . For normal street racing /freemode I use 360, drifting is 900 . Using 360 will reduce wheel woble when in a straight line but shortens your overall range of steering causing oversteer or understeer . Different cars feel different also . I have both motorfest and tc2 I think the wheel is easier on motorfest since it had a few more options to play around with and also with remapping buttons which is pretty cool.
On my thrustmaster it wasn't too bad but it still has the same issue that the Crew had. Every car just feels like a faster or slower version of the same car. None of them really feel different at all which ruins the fun of a racing game IMO
First-person mode feels bad unless you have triple monitor and even then it’s still just very limited and cramped However, on-hood pov is great to be able to get a better angle on what’s happening rather than in chase pov.
@@downforcedel Triple is always great. Because it gives you massively more horizontal peripherals. A large curved monitor is very good though, and is preferable to plenty of people. I would recommend going with a large monitor, and you want your wheel right in front of the monitor. This way you can make it more like being in a real car--being too far from a smaller monitor means the dashboard is taking up a lot of your main vision--so you want to be close so that your vision is through the windshield, and the dash is below your main vision (Before I said it feels cramped, but I didn't realize you just need a big enough monitor and have it really close) So that's what I've found. As far as horizontal peripherals, it's not quite as important, curved or triple should work great. Cheers
I play all my sim racing games with hood cam. I feel like it's the best compromise from being inside the car and the chase cam. Inside the car can be limiting and i hate chase cam with a wheel. Also if anyone wants a good arcade racing game with pretty good wheel support id recommend nfs heat. It plays pretty well once you change your rotation to somewhere between 360 and 540.
I play on PS5 with my g29 (wheel, pedal and shifter). When i drift with default settings I get same issue but with my custom car and pro tuning it works more stable. I believe even during racing some cars loose control. Do you have the same issue? Sometimes
Yes but I haven’t experimented further with other settings (like the fanatec settings). I think I just got used to it over time. For sure drives different from other games but it’s still fun
How do get it to work. Every time I connect my Fanatec CLS DD and launch Motorfest I just get blue screen. Only works when the wheel is unplugged. As soon I connect the wheel blue screen. Works fine in other games though. Any suggestions?
I heard it’s better than TC2, too. I actually skipped TC2 so can’t compare but good point. I just turned my clutch into an e brake lol. Did you change the settings to h pattern with clutch under the wheel menu not just the controller menu?
@@downforcedel ohh I just finished my 5h trial but I was playing using xbox pad , zurently waiting form my fanatec delivery and I wanted to get this game just for city roaming with H pattern and clutch.......
For drifting : ABS off - ESP off - TCS off - Drift Assist : Sport / In Pro Settings : Put Camber on something like -0.25 / +0.10.......and bring down the Grip Rear Tire a little (default is max - all the way to right, just bring it down 1 or 2 clicks). Something like Mazda RX-7 : fully upgraded, you can just leave it in 3rd and throtlle control the drift / little tap on the brakes to switch angles of the car..... If car is not fully upgraded, then you might need to switch between 3rd and 4th gear.....But anyway, should be able to not lose multiplier and score 200k + in drift, when maxed out with Slippery bonus, that becomes 600-700k in that drift event. (I play on Thrustmaster TS-PC racer with Ferrari 488 Challenge wheel - rotation 360° - force feedback 70 / could lower feedback to 30-40 for drift events, if you find it too strong at 70)
MVP!! I should really practice my drifting but through experimentation I was almost at these settings. I’ll try these out for sure! Going to use the clutch pedal as an e brake until I get one
PS you e earned a pin 👍 for helping me and your fellow racers
Ps4/Ps5 . For normal street racing /freemode I use 360, drifting is 900 . Using 360 will reduce wheel woble when in a straight line but shortens your overall range of steering causing oversteer or understeer . Different cars feel different also . I have both motorfest and tc2 I think the wheel is easier on motorfest since it had a few more options to play around with and also with remapping buttons which is pretty cool.
Ah that’s a good setup. I also heard Motorfest is leaps better than tc2 which is kind of cool.
On my thrustmaster it wasn't too bad but it still has the same issue that the Crew had. Every car just feels like a faster or slower version of the same car. None of them really feel different at all which ruins the fun of a racing game IMO
True. I get it for the grand races to keep it even but thats really the only place you can showcase your car.
First-person mode feels bad unless you have triple monitor and even then it’s still just very limited and cramped
However, on-hood pov is great to be able to get a better angle on what’s happening rather than in chase pov.
I think I’m trying to save up for a single curved. Thing triple is still better though?
*think
@@downforcedel
Triple is always great. Because it gives you massively more horizontal peripherals.
A large curved monitor is very good though, and is preferable to plenty of people.
I would recommend going with a large monitor, and you want your wheel right in front of the monitor.
This way you can make it more like being in a real car--being too far from a smaller monitor means the dashboard is taking up a lot of your main vision--so you want to be close so that your vision is through the windshield, and the dash is below your main vision
(Before I said it feels cramped, but I didn't realize you just need a big enough monitor and have it really close)
So that's what I've found. As far as horizontal peripherals, it's not quite as important, curved or triple should work great. Cheers
I play all my sim racing games with hood cam. I feel like it's the best compromise from being inside the car and the chase cam. Inside the car can be limiting and i hate chase cam with a wheel.
Also if anyone wants a good arcade racing game with pretty good wheel support id recommend nfs heat.
It plays pretty well once you change your rotation to somewhere between 360 and 540.
I play on PS5 with my g29 (wheel, pedal and shifter). When i drift with default settings I get same issue but with my custom car and pro tuning it works more stable. I believe even during racing some cars loose control. Do you have the same issue? Sometimes
Yes but I haven’t experimented further with other settings (like the fanatec settings). I think I just got used to it over time. For sure drives different from other games but it’s still fun
Curious to know, are you using a wheel or a controller? Comment below
How do get it to work. Every time I connect my Fanatec CLS DD and launch Motorfest I just get blue screen. Only works when the wheel is unplugged. As soon I connect the wheel blue screen. Works fine in other games though. Any suggestions?
I use the CSL DD with default settings and I like the feeling, it’s much better than in the previous games, but I can’t get the clutch to work :/
I heard it’s better than TC2, too. I actually skipped TC2 so can’t compare but good point. I just turned my clutch into an e brake lol.
Did you change the settings to h pattern with clutch under the wheel menu not just the controller menu?
@@downforcedel yeah the handling is a lot better, I have and e brake and sq shifter and they work fine, but not the clutch
Im glad they had a free trial cuz its shit on a wheel just like TC2
I’m surprised a game in 2023 has input lag on PC. It seemed to have gotten better but still not good 🤔
@@downforcedel ohh I just finished my 5h trial but I was playing using xbox pad , zurently waiting form my fanatec delivery and I wanted to get this game just for city roaming with H pattern and clutch.......
i cant get my wheel to be reconised by the game
Some quick things to check: PC mode? If not, try PC compatibility mode. Which base do you have?