Kuntur Sayana - Bolting and climbing a perfect line in Peru
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- Опубликовано: 7 май 2020
- Charlotte Durif and Josh Larson discovered this wall during their 2 years world tour "A World Less Travelled" - Kuntur Sayana is a 230 meters triangular limestone face culminating at 4800m in the heart of the Peruvian Andes.
The route climbed and bolted by charlotte and Josh is called “Vuelo del Condor” with 8a+ to start and along the way 3 back to back 8a.
Enjoy the video
••• Credits •••
Video Production: Cold House Media
/ coldhousemedia
••• Featuring •••
Charlotte Durif: / chadurif
Josh Larson: / joshlrsn
••• Music •••
Bossa Old by Hanjo Gabler
Contact Omega by Jamie Bathgate
La promesa by Tula Ben Ari
Live Good Always by Rafi B. Levy
Que por Mi... by Tino van der Sman
Rhea by Yehezkel Raz
Spanish Summer by Hanjo Gabler
Wild Island by Roger Rivas
(License Number - 502238) 
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I don't know if people really understand the magnitude of climbing that hard at that altitude. This just blows my mind. Hats off.
The elevation is nothing, trying living in Telluride or Leadville.
@@chuckburr517
1) I don't know what you're trying to achieve by diminishing someones awe and appreciation for the video and the amazing feat that both Charlotte and Josh pulled off and were able to share with us.
2) Telluride altitude sits at 2667m above sea level and Leadville at 3094m while they are climbing at nearly 4800m! Not sure why you felt the need to try and degrade them like that. But suit yourself
sorry to be offtopic but does anyone know of a way to get back into an Instagram account?
I stupidly lost the password. I would love any help you can give me!
@Kendrick Maurice instablaster ;)
@Valentino Noah i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and Im in the hacking process now.
Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I remember discovering their vlog when they went to Peru the first time and thinking wow, I need to go climbing there. What an amazing film, you two are a huge inspiration.
Dope! Happy they paid homage and respect to the local communities and cultures.
I find climbing can be very selfish and often times looks past the rich culture that is inspired from the land that we get to play in.
What an amazing line and a beautiful place. Thank you for sharing this story!
I remember following along with all the social media posts an so psyched about seeing the process and bits of the wall. Good to see it all come together! Great production and content. Can wait to go down there myself and try it!
Amazing film guys! Incredible place and a mind blowing wall. The cold house media vlog has been one of my favorites for years, but this is next level.
Best video yet you guys! Thank you so much for sharing all the hard work and experience! So inspiring and the music and videography was so enjoyable!
those vertical walls are definitely the most elegant to watch being climbed. What a piece of rock!
Amazing video guys! So well done. Thanks for making it.
This video was absolutely motivating. Looked like a really awesome trip.
I love these guys.
Es increible escalar en un lugar magico . Sentir la brisa de el aire en tus manos en tu rostro da motivacion para seguir adelante saludos a mis amigos coco y diana los motivadores de la escalada en cusco . Gracias. !!!
Loved it!! I enjoyed seeing you two be affectionate as well. Just the right amount I would say🥰
Waw! What a video and what a line you guys bolted. Great accomplishment . Great job in developing the area. Mucho respeto.
So cool and fun to watch your videos guys! Have seen you guys in Toulouse but didn't had the courage to take your time.
Thanks for your work on climbing.
Wow so much hard work into that. Great job all around!
So refreshing to see some classic era climbers still doing their thing.
One of the most inspiring things I’ve ever seen on RUclips. Doing something like this is my ultimate dream and goal and I’m proud to say I’m actively working towards that goal.
Always love the films you guys make, and I think this is the best of the lot, looks and sounds super-slick! Whilst we’re all stuck in some form of lockdown, watching a film this this is is damn well inspiring and reminds me that we will be out on beautiful rock again sometime soon(ish)!
Grate work guys!
My first comment ever on RUclips, you earned it haha... awesome film! Cheers from Ecuador/Colombia!
So amazed by the view.
Fantastic!!!
super nice movie!!! i loved te editing job! all te film flows perfectly, you guys inpire the young climbing filmakers like myself!!
Beautiful place!! I had been at Pitumarca climbing for a week in 2017, very friendly people Coco and all the local ones...
Coco is such a nice guy
Kudos to you and the video editor
Amazing
Great Video!
Menudo viote a 4500m !!! Increible. EL primer largo de 8a+ en placa gris es de escandalo. Cinco estrellas. El resto de la via igual, pa quitarse el sombrero. Vaya dos pedazo de escaladores. Menuda aventura.
Auténticos campeones
vous me faites rêver !!!
amazing
So sick
Very cool
the talent here is unreal
Nice film🤙 i miss bolting and climbing..can't wait for this pandemic to end
You can still watch Usain Bolt on RUclips but maybe that isn't quite as good.
Good job! I can't wait to be let out of my cage and go exploring for rock again
This route is located at the same height as the Mont Blanc summit. Just sick!!!
Nice video guys....but bolting from the top a montain route Its the end of alpinism and the climbing motivation.....✌
whooowee, hope there are easier routes around there.
Dope
very brave team
"Holy Shit" that face looks freaking amazing!
And if for whatever reason, the climbing doesn't go so well, just go hiking a lap of the Nevado Ausangate!
For Spanish lovers: don't be disappointed, they don't speak a word....Only Quechua. But your hands will do! ^^
Not to mention the unbelievable handwoven natural colors only Peruvian original clothing that you want to buy to support the local community.
This area is THE genuine way of living, not matter what sport you practice.
You can't onsight something you bolted, only flash.
First; awesome wall! Two comments...did you build that cool rock wall for your camp and second...there has to be a reason you don’t wear “eye protection” when you’re drilling bolts! 😁
Multi pitch sport climb woooooooo!
What's the outro song in the credits?
Nice rap at the end ;) 16:50
What's that intro song?
la promesa- tula ben ari
you should brought a parachute or glider for much exciting experience and much easier going the way down
very nice.
but 3:29 ... Renault Duster???
Song 8a+ attempt?
My beer can do that hold me
I wish I could get a better perspective of how steep it is
I agree with Rafal Malczyk. This is the murder of the impossible/possible. Was this not possible to attempt this face with "trad" climbing methods ??? ie. nuts, cams; maybe pins & rurps ?? Too many bolts in a pristine landscape.......
where do we go next.......Richard Nadin AC
just hoping that was a torque wrench... otherwise looks like over-tightening those expansion bolts.
07:56
07:47
17:21
:D
Did they put quickdraws in all seven pitches before the redpoint (or actually pinkpoint) attempt? o.O
We climbers generally love nature and beautiful places.
Yet by travelling around the world we accelerate their destruction.
How do you people deal with this contradiction? @petzlsport how do you deal with this?
kind regards
Rap-bolting. Bachar would've approved
Bachar hung on hooks... that's A0
well done - like your Trip videos !!!
Meet me on GOZO
DD
You know you're making it in climbing when you can match with your ropes and gear.
Why is it okay to make a hole in the mountain and damage it?
Awesome rock and nice movie, but really disappointing that you bolted it from above. That's not how such a great wall should be done in my opinion...
So true.
I was going to say the same and found your comment. I agree: truly beautiful movie. Thanks to all the crew for that! But rap-bolting should be left for sport routes. An amazing and virgin wall like this... as a big brand I would be more careful with ethics: unadvised people might watch this and get inspired to "conquer" the next mountain from above. As John Bachar used to say... this is just "invisible top-roping".
totally agree
That's a load of BS. Rap bolting produces better routes. Get with the time
@@ohjolt2
Then you should go to the gym and bolt some routes there!
i hope they remove all those bolts..soon every mountain will be a mass of bolts..
Chiodare dall'alto una via a 4800 m vergognatevi. Io sarò anche scarso e insignificante ma cazzo questa cosa è inaccettabile.
Esatto. Ma perchè la gente fa ste cose orribili??
What they did is amazing, although in my opinion a bit useless. Bolting such a hard route at such an elevation at such a remote location.how many climbers are going to go there? If they want to help communities with climbing tourism they should start by bolting easy routes man. than again i have not researched what sport climbing is like in the area they are climbing at.
No sense... it's horrible this relation to mountain.
when you live in first world and go many places with $ and can izi way
What made you think that you had a right to bolt this wall? It looked beautiful and it had been there for millions of years before people started climbing and most probably will be there for millions of years after humans stop climbing (now with your ugly metal bolts that will become rusty and even more ugly). Perhaps you should also consider building a motorway to the bottom of the mountain and some comfortable hotel nearby to make it even more accessible...
The ethics of this are interesting.
From the POV of sports, there seem to be some issues. I am not a technical climber, but I have learned enough to know that this route was certainly not done with purity in mind.
The next question is whether leaving the permanent bolts is cool. Obviously, it is a desecration of the mountains. The bigger thing to ponder is that it was done explicitly to create a tourist destination.
This idea that bringing poor* people into the global economy to lift them out of poverty is a good thing is losing steam. (*I use the word poor in the IMF sense of low income and limited access to other measures of wellbeing. Certainly given the richness of their culture I don't consider them poor). Given how shitty things are getting, I think that leaving theses areas alone is much better. If you [team members of Petzl] are really committed to eco-tourism, convert distressed areas into sites worth going to. Spend your bucks of rehabbing a mountain that was destroyed by mining for example. Make a difference, get others on board...
Leave the remote pristine places out of this global declension.
HIghly debatable content. Petzl is not some huge NGO. They are however publicising areas to go climbing - which is their business. This is far better than nothing. And instead of spending time criticising them why not go and change it yourself.
@@theodorecraft718 "Spending time criticising [Petzl]"
@@theodorecraft718
I am not sure I follow you. Are "spending time criticising them why not go and change it yourself" mutually exclusive? How so?
What do you mean by mentioning Petzl not being a huge NGO? I can only infer that you think only NGOs are capable of doing good.
The main criticism of the actions in this video is that they are ruining a pristine area. Do you really think that publicising this particular climb is coming to send the average climber off to a super remote area of South America?
"This is far better than nothing" - what do you even mean by this?
All I can guess is that you don't think people have the right to critique anything. Do you realize this makes you come off as a thoughtless crank?
Bolted from the top, bolts 2 m distance... turned an expedition into a vacation of camping a cragging. Really not wortg such a video and production.
200+m??!!! All bolted???? I can't imagine a non-sponsored athlete putting this up is a SAFE style. The avg joe climber would spend ~$5 per bolt. Evenly spaced at around 10ft between bolts, plus two bolt anchors w rap rings (~$9 each)
few hundred $$ for one route. This is one reason why most routes put up by average climbers are done in better style (fewer bolts) and bolder. Grow balls, don't place as many bolts.
New routes should be built from the ground up to find the best route. Please DO NOT rap down and rampage around bolting with an SDS drill. Beautiful scenery yes, but this video teaches a poor ethic that can get the climbing community in trouble. Honestly, and with great respect, I encourage Petzl to consider pulling this video.
Totally agree!
looks nice all logistic, but the style from the tope is horrible.
*bolting top down.*
thumbs down.
Lol go bolt a 5.13 big wall ground up then. We're waiting.
Horrible style... In 2020 it's bullshit....
I was watching this with my gf and had to turn off 5 minutes in. Travelling to Peru and hiking up 4000m+ to an untouched, pristine rock face and then drilling gigantic holes into and bolting it... no es bueno. Shame