Let's Make an 1890s Ballgown Bodice!
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- Опубликовано: 9 сен 2024
- This week, I'm turning my attention away from the 1890s skirt, and to the ballgown bodice - patterning and fitting the understructure, and draping the pleated silk exterior.
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i love that the cat waves at the same time that you do in the very beginning
I think the original dress is likely dated correctly, or at least has the chance to be. Starting with the sleeves, in 1905 the leg of mutton sleeve came back with a graceful vengeance and lasted until 1909 from what I know. There are differences in how it appears there than in the 1890s however. Looking at the picture, the length of the gathered part falls at around elbow length, which I've seen more commonly in the 05-08 range than in the 1890s. The sleeve volume as well seems intent on falling off the shoulder instead of going directly up and out like in the 90s. Then the white under sleeve is also something I've seen common in fashion plates in the later 1900s. The lack of the pigeon breast is also in line with what I've seen. It starts to get smaller and eventually fade away at around the same point in 1905, but the ruffle sweeping across the bodice could be an alternative to that volume here. The ruffle detail on the skirt that you mentioned as well is also apparent on fashion plates in some variety, some line cutting across the bottom third of the panels. The shape of the skirt however is what gives me pause, being quite definitely A-line and not falling with a lot of soft drape. It quite likely could have been altered, which is what I'm leaning towards as an answer.
It definitely is correct. The sleeves are not 1890s big, they are Edwardian puffy (and droopy). If they were 1890s they would be a lot stiffer and poofed out, not drooping and soft
It's a pity that the museums don't routinely include the insides and closures.
That’s so true! It’s really an important part of any garment!
Also, the bodice looks so good after you have made the adjustments to fit. Really like the neckline even with it showing the corset cover.
The bodice is looking lovely.
I'm sorry to hear about Dora needing get care too! Hopefully she will recover quickly. Hopefully Lyons will go well too
Looking fantastic! Lots of love to Lion and Dora❤
Thanks!
I love these cross over style bodices, but the idea of trying to figure out all the layers of closures gives me a headache. So happy I get to watch you do it instead. Perhaps one day I'll tackle that particular challenge myself.
It's a bit of a nightmare, but the final effect is well worth the figuring out
The bodice is similar to my great grandmother's wedding dress bodice (1912). Lots of hooks and eyes attaching several layers. It looked like it had a couple of separate layers, but the lace was sewn to the silk 'jacket'. Some parts had a double row of hooks and eyes to ensure a great fit, without gaping. I seem to remember that the cross over pieces were backed by stiff fabric, to add structure. They might also have been separate pieces added to the bodice. So almost tailored like a man's jacket, rather than being draped
Good luck and well wishes for Mr Lion’s surgery tomorrow!!
Thank you!
Dora honey you can't sew but you are adorable 🎉❤
I know I've said this before, but your skills just are mind-boggling.
Aww, thank you!
Every time I see that purple I fall a bit more in love with it :)
I love the waistcoat detail of the bodice.
What a fansahde of purple! This is so lovely so far, and I can’t wait to see next week’s progress. I hope you enjoy your time with your parents in California, and they can support you in these difficult times. Sending love and prayers for Lion and Dora and you. Take care.
The inspiration for your bodice is dreamy. I can't wait to see your interpretation!
Now I'm itching even more to make the asymmetrical wraparound bodice shirt.
the color of the mockup looked so pretty
Oh, pretty, pretty, pretty! I love the pleats; I feel this bodice will be a show-stopper!🥰
I do hope it goes well with your pets. 🙏💗 I hope you hear a response from the museum. When I look at the picture you do have I was thinking that little ruffle is self made and then sewn over the seam. It could be all one piece...with some fancy folding to give you a fold down each side of the ruffle.
I routinely go to the Cincinnati Art Museum and have met some of the curators and restoration team, they’re all lovely people!!! I hope you got pictures that you needed!!
Not yet, but I'm still hoping! 🤞
We have basically the same Pinterest boards! Haha
Were I not on NZ's version of disability, I'd donate to help with the vet bills in a heartbeat
Dora: Mom quit talking and get me attention!😂😂😂
Love seeing Dora
I was very confused during the last few minutes where Dora was playing with a bell, I was pretty sure my cat had found a bell in my room... 😂😂
This is so beautiful. I can't wait to see what you do next!
For the chemise, maybe you can sew some short pieces of boning on one end to the inside of the bodice neckline. The other end of the boning could then tuck into the chemise to hold it back. Saw it as a way to keep bra straps from showing I want to say on This is Katchi's channel, that or Frieda Leopold
Edit: maybe a series of hooks a bit in could also work if they hook into the neckline of the chemise
Or a piece of lace across the neckline where the chemise peeks out
I can tell you with certainty that the ruffle will work best (and was probably originally done) as a single piece. In the early 80's my mother made "Priscilla Curtains" for our home. Because of the amount of ruffles needed, she enlisted help from an acquaintance with a ruffler attachment to run the ruffles through.
The upper portion of the ruffle (which I call the "header") is made by folding the hemmed fabric down in the front. As an example, for a 15" completed ruffle you might start with a 20" strip of fabric. You hem the bottom toward the back and hem the top toward the front. Then you fold forward and press 3" at the top (which will "right side" your hem). You then sew 1 1/2" down from the top fold with the ruffler, sewing as vou would a double ruffle. When completed you will have a header with 1 1/2" top header ruffle and 1 1/2" bottom header ruffle on top of 15" main ruffle (varying depending on your hem width). This produces a large ruffle with header that you can sew onto clothing, curtains, bedding, or other linens.
Love your videos and I hope this helps!
Thanks! I will try that!
I love your cat. And, I’ve just given you some small amount towards your ‘Go FundMe’ goal, to help Dora and Lion. If I could donate more I would, but being a pensioner, money is tight. So, hope my little bit helps and really hope your babies get better. I know how much animals mean, having rescued numerous cats and dogs in my life (and paid out loads in vet bills!).
Thank you so much! 🩷
I am notorious for making things either small or big. in sewing and crochet. I don't know how to really prevent that issue.
Lately, I've been feeling the same way!
For the sake of your wallet, Dora may need to become and indoor only cat
Yeah, I'm trying to potentially figure out a catio situation.
@@LadyRebeccaFashionsOur kitten is an indoors cat, but we have a harness, leash, & backpack for him. He's getting used to the harness/leash combo, but absolutely *loves* his backpack! We got a backpack (Travel Cat's Fat Cat Mini) which has a little stretchy leash that hooks to his harness so we can open the top of the backpack. That way, he can poke his head out while remaining safe.
You could potentially do something like that and give her outside time while walking Lion. Be prepared for all the people who will say stuff like, "Is that a *cat* in that backpack?" 🤣
Good luck with pet surgeries...
Not sure if you'll see this comment but I suspect the blue dress was a 1900s dress but made for a older married woman with conservative tastes who was more comfortable with the earlier fashions from the 1890s so you see those odd elements of 1890s and 1900s married together. The subdued shade of blue, the restrained trimming tells me this was a mature ladies dress. You used to see this a lot with the older generations holding on to trends from a decade or more earlier. in the early 19th century for example you had older people who still powdered and patched their faces, you had older men in the mid century still wearing 1810s 1820s stock collars and fast forward to the 1920s you'll see a lot of older women still wearing things straight from the early 1910s complete with hobble skirts and toques with egret sprays. The modern equivalent would be my memories of my 1920s great grandmother still wearing a Marcel wave in her hair and high thin Clara Bow brows in the 1980s. No joke.
Just as I was going to help Lion... Benny has had to have major treatment for a chest infection. Our other boxer is so worried as to why his big brother is so under par.
Aww, I hope Benny feels better soon! 🫂🐾
❤❤❤
I would donate for vet bills but I have doc bills. Hoping for speedy recovery for them.
I can tell you with certainty that the ruffle will work best (and was probably originally done) as a single piece. In the early 80’s my mother made “Priscilla Curtains” for our home. Because of the amount of ruffles needed, she enlisted help from an acquaintance with a ruffler attachment to run the ruffles through. The upper portion of the ruffle (which I call the “header”) is made by folding the hemmed fabric down in the front. As an example, for a 15” completed ruffle you might start with a 20” strip of fabric. You hem the bottom toward the back and hem the top toward the front. Then you fold forward and press 3” at the top (which will “right side” your hem). You then sew 1 1/2” down from the top fold with the ruffler, sewing as you would a double ruffle. When completed you will have a header with 1 1/2” top header ruffle and 1 1/2” bottom header ruffle on top of 15” main ruffle (varying depending on your hem width). This produces a large ruffle with header that you can sew onto clothing, curtains, bedding, or other linens.
Love your videos and I hope this helps!
If you search for Priscilla curtains to see what I mean, use pictures of Dorothy’s Ruffled Originals as reference 🌷
Smooth fitting of a bodice is a nightmare for me. On that topic, I think that your armscyes are a bit too high and a bit too small in front - it causes the fabric to bunch under your arms. But it might be the seam allowance...
I think it's the seam allowance, but I do sometimes cut them down more once I go to add the sleeves.
@@LadyRebeccaFashions Than you for replying. I have a tendency to make too small armscyes on my costumes, so I see it everywhere.
I still can’t get over these Washington vet prices! But I definitely understand dog being like children though. As I am watching this, I looked down, and our Great Dane, Daisy Grace, was at the end of the bed finishing off a bag of my daughters sweet tarts that she had stolen!
I really have no clue what u r talking about but dont you have an actual historical garment that has all those overlaps?
I have a couple similar ones, but none that are exactly this.
I think the pleat scale didn’t work because a tall person has linger legs but not generally a much longer waist to crotch. The scale should be to a point on your body not at a standard ratio.