I believe the "veil" fabric mentioned at 3:00 is called "tulle" (pronounced "tool"). I've used silver tulle before to replicate chain link fencing and it came out looking very nice to scale and everything. I think anything finer than that would be something like organza.
For the paper question, what about using 40 grit sandpaper, or skateboard grip tape. Cut them into thin strips, the grip tape has self adhesive and the sandpaper you would need to glue.
I'm drinking Lidl instant With whole milk and 1 sugar. You are very fortunate to have NRMA standards, here in the UK, I have access to OO and HO models from Europe, especially second hand, and Hornby Dublo models from years ago. All will run on my PECO flexitrack! But the amount of time and bench work to fit some NEM standards wheels, and alter the couplings to even touch, never mind couple up. All adds to the fun of creating a heritage railway set somewhere in between Doncaster and Europe. I run what ever I want it's my railway!!!
What about spray painting large grit sandpaper in the color you want your ballast, then cutting and gluing strips of that on the side of your plastic roadbed? Disadvantage is you're not going to be able to nestle it right up to the rail without cutting a lot of notches, advantage is it's relatively cheap and pretty fast to produce. If you use the same color paint with a brush to paint in between the ties, this can disguise the lack of grit in between the tie ends and between the ties inside the rails. Would seem to be easier than gluing grit to wedding veil (tulle?) material, and you can cut either with a utility knife.
I enjoy very much your channel. I am drinking a Coffee , from Oaxaca (southern state of Mexico) is organic and a socially responsible, paying fare price to the workers. And also a very good Coffee, well roasted here in Mérida, Mexico where I live, and also fresh grind.
Learn something new every time I jump in the train for dyi and digital, you can lock the speed of a train, I didn't know you could do that.. amazing!!! I'll have to put that fact into my notebook for next time. As always a big Thank You.. 😮😂 Ed
I wondered if various girts of sandpaper could be used as gravel, either painted or unpainted. If used for a dirt road, it would be easy to create ruts by simply rubbing off the area to remove some of the sand.
Thanks for answering my question Jimmy! You should really look into the MMR program. With your skill-set, I think it wouldn't be a very difficult task for you. A few other YT'bers and myself are currently working on a few. Splitrock is one and a great person to get advice on where to start. This morning, I am drinking my usual, Monster Java Salted Caramel. - Jason
Probably a little expensive for a non-powder/granular method of ballasting, but what about large grain sandpaper, you'd just have to paint it a ballast color.
Black Rifle Coffee is in my cup. I have the Bachmann On30 White Pass & Yukon, and am looking to upgrade it to DCC / Sound. Although it says Spectrum on the box, it's not DCC ready.
What a variety of things to take in Jimmy. One thing that you touched on was ballasting, I’ve been contemplating getting a sponge to try (dabbing some color) on my Bachmann EZ track. With different texture.
Thanks for the NMRA mention. Attending their local meetings and conventions is a great way to avoid detours and dead ends in the hobby (kind of like watching this channel is). The Achievement Program (AP) is a worthwhile challenge but participation is definitely optional. Paul Newman Organic again today.
I'm having Cafe Escapes Cafe Mocha from the Keurig NMRA's DCC standard is their biggest contribution to modern-day model railroading. The Hare is definitely a really easy snap on product to work with if you go DCC control route.
On that last decoder question. 63 is exactly the limit for a 6-bit binary number (255 being the limit for 8-bit). It might be interesting to check if writing a value slightly less than 255 still sets the lower 6 bits of the number correctly. For example, writing 254 in binary would be 1111-1110. If you read back the CV and see 62 (0011-1110) then that would probably indicate that for some reason the upper 2 bits of the number are not being written/set correctly and are stuck as 0s. I doubt it's an issue with the command station and more than likely an issue with the decoder (like in the video, reset it or check for a weird setting), but I'm sure the manufacturer would appreciate the information if you contact them for troubleshooting.
Question, is there a way of automating points, my idea, use a shuttle module to have the loco going backwards and forwards but have the loco run forward on one track but comback on another. drinking store bought coffee double strength no sugar. great videos.
A couple of comments: 1) whether paper, fabric, or any other material, also be mindful of their combustiblity. One reason we have "expensive" commercial scenery products today is because yesteryear's homebrewed materials could be ignited by a spark from a passing / derailed train. I, sadly, speak from experience. 😢 2) the NMRA has its roots in the 1930s with some names we'd still recognize today - Al Kalmbach and William K. Walthers, to name two. Their value to the hobby is priceless as a coordinating body for interoperability of brands within a scale. The value of membership in the NMRA is not as clear-cut. Not all chapters are created equally. Some are insanely active, while others are on life support. A rural area might be a huge hub of activity, while a major city could be a ghost town. For example, I grew up in New York City in the 1970s to 2010s, but the NMRA - or even train shows - were unheard-of in the 5 boros. For that one had to travel out to Long Island or New Jersey - a subway ride into Manhattan, a commuter train out of the city, and a bus or taxi to the venue. Provided, of course, the commuter trains were running in the right direction - if at all - in the evening or weekend when the show / meeting was happening. That could mean a 4 to 6 hour round-trip because Nu Yawkers don't drive. 3) I would recommend a beginner DCC system like NCE or Digitrax instead of a basic one like Bachmann's. This isn't a quality issue, but a features one. If your DCC system doesn't let you read and program the CVs, then you're just paying good money on something that restricts your ability to access all the possibilities your DCC locomotive is capable of.
The Walthers turnout motors also support a DCC address. The one drawback is that I am unable to make them work with a DS74, but they do work with their internal address.
Okay, here is another question. Just starting to build a setup. My base will be plywood or MDF (medium density fiberboard). Your thoughts on using MDF?
Regarding DCC control of switch machines: NCE makes a product called SwitchIt, which controls two stall type switch machines (Tortoise is a stall motor switch machine). They also make a Switch-8 which (as the name implies) will control up to eight switch machines. I've not used either of these personally.
Walther Switch Machines are addressable in DCC systems, fully integrated and full feature too. I think they are the best bang for your buck. I don't understand why they are not always included in any conversation regarding Tortoise/Smail or Cobalt
@@chrisenglish3837 I suspect you don't see Walthers machines mentioned so much because they make sense only when you want DCC functionality for your turnouts. Twenty-five bucks for a switch machine makes a lot of sense if you want DCC integration, but not so much if you just want a manually operated switch machine. You can get a Tortoise for about $15 if you shop around, or you can get a Blue Point for about $10. I think model railroaders are pretty resistant to change - I know some modelers who still move their Peco turnouts with a bamboo skewer and they're very happy with that. As for me, I'm happy with a DPDT switch - I doubt if I ever switch to DCC turnout control.
You mentioned Bachmann dcc starter kits. I can only find kits with trains. I have many locomotives and would consider dcc if I could buy something reasonable with all the things needed, such as power pack, dcc controller, etc. Do you have a link?
Do we know who started the less than thrilling habit of starting videos with a drink of coffee or other innocuous beverage? It happens on several posters I'm subscribed to, and it's been several years?
I drink green mountain breakfast blend I do have a question about a video you done about 4 years ago budget railroading about using a pill bottle case a storage tank on a layout ialso use them for storing rail joiners and other small items
Been thinking about starting a group myself, a big concern for me( offering my garage"roundhouse" layout) as a homebase) is securityaftrrbabing a visitor lift a boxcar. Confrm with everybofy they understand their worl does not earn ownership of any existing railroad. For security im thinking of a detailed video of all existing railroad & parts. How to secure from vandelism 24/7? ? Id like to just trust everybody and all they tell of the group, but...
Hi Love the videos. Tell me i want to start an n scale layout. I want to buy the starter packs etc. But im not sure which make to use. There is kato and bachmann and few others. Which one would you buy Thanx Shaun
Unlike us modellers where our teacks need to flow smoothly, the real railways don't always to thus. I travel the railways in the UK and I've noticed several places, usually in low speed areas, where real track formations don't give smooth transitions from one piece of track to the next.
Do you think that the NMRA should work on setting a standard for bluetooth decoders and apps since the Bluetooth decoder from like Bluenami won't be recognized by apps like Hornby HM 7000 and probably the other way around as well?
Hello there Jimmy, I retired after 33 1/2 years from the military and decided to take up a hobby from my childhood to relax. Seems I didn't realize that how expensive an undertaking this was going to be. So this whole DCC is new and great but... I was wondering, I built and am using the arduino controller and am using my cell phone as the interface. (using your how to video) which worked great BTW. But what I don't know is and don't really understand is how much track can I run? I am looking to run about 75 feet of track, with two or three loco's running at a time. Also I have been converting DC loco's to DCC and I was wondering if I am doing something wrong as they don't seem to have as much top end speed? Any help would be most appreciated. Take care and have a good one.🚂🚃🚃🚃🚃🚃
Doug The length of the tracks is not really the determining factor, as long as you feed power at the appropriate distance. What really determines how many locomotives you can run is your power source ie the booster, a cheat sheet is 500mA for DCC locomotives without sound and 1000mA for DCC locomotives with sound. The speed depends on how the gearbox in the locomotive is built and the settings in the decoder.
The Soundtraxx decoder that only goes to cv5=63 is most likely a Tsunami 1, or a one off manufactured decoder. i.e. Walthers used to have Soundtraxx make like a Tsu 1.5. Mostly Tsu1 features but some Tsu2 features mixed in.
I have 2 questions. I just changed my loco net cable. Now I have a short at all gaps. Also the track status lights. Won't go off on the 2 boosters when you shut down the camand station. It will go off on the camand station.
I am not an expert on Digitrax systems and loconet. I would email them and ask them about it if you haven't yet. Also I would check the DCC Guy's youtube channel.
@@DIYDigitalRailroad I did. And they said it was corrupt. Or 1 of the boosters is not doing what it is. Supposed to bee doing and to send the hole system. To digitrax. So I did and am waiting to see if they can fix it.
I have a question, in DCC-EX, how do you wire a layout if you have an Arduino running DCC-EX, and you want to add DCC boosters, to try to boost the voltage and signal farther, if maybe you have a larger loop of track? Though I rarely get to drink coffee, I like Decaf(the brand), with a little bit of vanilla creamer and no sugar.
Some great questions with great answers. Always learning something new. Can you setup a hand switch for your switchers? I think it would be fun and look realalistic on a layout. GOD BLESS 🚂💖🚂💖🚂💖🚂💖
You started talking about DCC. My question is I have older non-DCC loco's and would like to find a way to make those DCC from some kind of kit. What are your thoughts on this or have you converted and old stuff to run DCC and which brand is better fit to do this
Here's a question, what would be the easiest DCC to get that requires no programming? I don't do computer programing, and I don't get along with cell apps. Or is the best option for me to stick with traditional DC? Also if I stick with DC, will DCC trains still perform basic running operation on DC?
A quick answer, DCC can be configured to run on DC, but generally speaking you just order the train without DCC installed and you get DC. DCC is a low-programming environment; I use a program called JMRI to do my programming and operation at home.
Thanks for another great video. I can't recommend coffee, as I prefer my water straight (no burnt bean flavor for me, thanks!) One question I have has to do with programming (specifically, on my NCE PowerCab) - Since I can program on the main, is there any sound reason that I should have a programming track vs programming on the main?
Yes, if you need to change the address of the decoder. Then it is easier on a programming track, because if you forget to remove all the decoders from the main track, they will also get the same address.
I use JMRI for my DCC programing and troubleshooting. Trying to use a handheld was clunky and outdated. I am used to using computer infaces as well as having the internet right there for ease of troubleshooting if I couldn't figure it out. My DCC unit is a Digikeijs DR5000.
I have a mixed roster of American trains, and European, and I had a double track (not anymore, in a different house) this is HO, and I had a mix of track codes, from different manufacturers, Atlas Roco, Piko. And I switched the track from DC to DCC, because I am not fully in DCC. And I realized about incompatibility of some of the equipment for Code 83, the locomotives in this code track would make”brrrrrrrrrrrrr” as they pass by ! That was about the wheel flange hitting the ties ! So I learn the lesson, and in this new track, will only be lying Code 100 ! But for sure you can make a comment. Thank you
Today I'm drinking a mocha frappé from McDonald's. I also happened to notice the Ukrainian boxcar. I have one in HO. It's a cool piece and I'm happy that the funds made from them are going to help the people of Ukraine, which is why I bought it in the first place.
Coffee? No, I drink milk and water. I'll drink coffee when my state's farmers start growing coffee beans. Keep it local whenever possible. From America's Dairyland.
I haven't jumped in in a while, Jimmy another great video. NMRA is a good thing for the hobby, if rolling stock or locos are NMRA Type HO, O, N by Bachman, Athern, and others in same scale they should all play nice. I work in broadcast and we have to have all things playing in the concert. Early on only video tape made on a Sony would only play on a Sony or Panasonic on a Panasonic, RCA etc. SMPTE (Society of Motion Picture Technicians and Engineers makes sure all Movies and TV are interchangeable, Audio has the AES, Audio Engineering Society, and the list goes on. If there were not standards and interoperability, you might originate you web cast on an Coco-123 cell phone, people with a Coco-123 brand could see your cast but people with a Thud-Drop 80 could not as they may do same thing but not with each other. Not so many years ago there was a problem with Android based phones not being able to watch Apple Based product, and neither on PC. Now you can watch You Tube on all platforms thanks to a form of interoperability. Drinking local roasted TRAX coffee tonight.
The DCC EX is just ridiculous to me. Anything that involves programming and code is just so out of my league, and I'm not necessarily OLD, it's just not in my wheelhouse and nothing I've ever studied. It seems like it should be a LOT easier and user friendly. How has somebody not just got something ready to go yet? Also, Re: Tortoise, I know you can use some Digitrax stuff to control Tortoise switch motors. Charlie Bishop from Chadwick Model Railway uses Digitrax stuff to control his switches. I think he assigns them certain numbers and can push a code for the particular switch and hit throw, or something on his handheld unit. You can check out his videos, he's doing OO but this stuff is the same, really. He's got a ton of wiring under each one of his boards. It provides power to the frogs and everything.
One thing that's slightly simply to set up, but still not trivial, is SPROG (I think that's there company name) they make more ready oob stuff although at a slightly higher cost than dccex
Regarding DCC: The majority of folks will use an off the shelf DCC system. Arduinos are not for everyone. Yes, you save some money, but only if you consider your time spent worthless. I always advise people to spend time in the hobby on things that interest them, and buy yourself out of the rest. If DCC is just something you want to run trains, no fuss etc., buy a system. Arduinos will just frustrate you.
Have to get started... This year for sure... As soon as I come back from the narrow gauge convention...
Moccona 11 as a cold latte.
I believe the "veil" fabric mentioned at 3:00 is called "tulle" (pronounced "tool"). I've used silver tulle before to replicate chain link fencing and it came out looking very nice to scale and everything. I think anything finer than that would be something like organza.
Coarse sanding paper of the right color can be used in between tracks.
For the paper question, what about using 40 grit sandpaper, or skateboard grip tape.
Cut them into thin strips, the grip tape has self adhesive and the sandpaper you would need to glue.
Great idea!
I'm drinking Lidl instant With whole milk and 1 sugar.
You are very fortunate to have NRMA standards, here in the UK, I have access to OO and HO models from Europe, especially second hand, and Hornby Dublo models from years ago. All will run on my PECO flexitrack! But the amount of time and bench work to fit some NEM standards wheels, and alter the couplings to even touch, never mind couple up. All adds to the fun of creating a heritage railway set somewhere in between Doncaster and Europe.
I run what ever I want it's my railway!!!
Wow! That was a great video with lots of relevant information. I was quite upset when it finished too soon. I wanted more. Thanks Jimmy.
great answers to great questions, thanks Jimmy
What about spray painting large grit sandpaper in the color you want your ballast, then cutting and gluing strips of that on the side of your plastic roadbed? Disadvantage is you're not going to be able to nestle it right up to the rail without cutting a lot of notches, advantage is it's relatively cheap and pretty fast to produce.
If you use the same color paint with a brush to paint in between the ties, this can disguise the lack of grit in between the tie ends and between the ties inside the rails.
Would seem to be easier than gluing grit to wedding veil (tulle?) material, and you can cut either with a utility knife.
A big cup of Black rifle with a little cream and a little sugar!! Great video!
I enjoy very much your channel. I am drinking a Coffee , from Oaxaca (southern state of Mexico) is organic and a socially responsible, paying fare price to the workers. And also a very good Coffee, well roasted here in Mérida, Mexico where I live, and also fresh grind.
Learn something new every time I jump in the train for dyi and digital, you can lock the speed of a train, I didn't know you could do that.. amazing!!! I'll have to put that fact into my notebook for next time. As always a big Thank You.. 😮😂 Ed
I wondered if various girts of sandpaper could be used as gravel, either painted or unpainted. If used for a dirt road, it would be easy to create ruts by simply rubbing off the area to remove some of the sand.
Great comments and suggestions Jimmy.
A freind of mine uses the grey wet and dry sanding sheets to make his road surfaces. He cuts it to shape and glues it down.
Thanks for answering my question Jimmy! You should really look into the MMR program. With your skill-set, I think it wouldn't be a very difficult task for you. A few other YT'bers and myself are currently working on a few. Splitrock is one and a great person to get advice on where to start. This morning, I am drinking my usual, Monster Java Salted Caramel. - Jason
Great video and information Jimmy!! Thanks for sharing. Have a good day and stay safe. Happy modeling!! -Jason
Probably a little expensive for a non-powder/granular method of ballasting, but what about large grain sandpaper, you'd just have to paint it a ballast color.
Black Rifle Coffee is in my cup. I have the Bachmann On30 White Pass & Yukon, and am looking to upgrade it to DCC / Sound. Although it says Spectrum on the box, it's not DCC ready.
Bachmans latest version of the EZ DCC now has the ability to do F0-28
What a variety of things to take in Jimmy. One thing that you touched on was ballasting, I’ve been contemplating getting a sponge to try (dabbing some color) on my Bachmann EZ track. With different texture.
Thanks for the NMRA mention. Attending their local meetings and conventions is a great way to avoid detours and dead ends in the hobby (kind of like watching this channel is). The Achievement Program (AP) is a worthwhile challenge but participation is definitely optional. Paul Newman Organic again today.
I'm having Cafe Escapes Cafe Mocha from the Keurig
NMRA's DCC standard is their biggest contribution to modern-day model railroading. The Hare is definitely a really easy snap on product to work with if you go DCC control route.
Im running the NCE pro and extra 5 amp booster and love it
Double Espresso! Great video
Having a nice hot cup of Dollar General's "Clover Valley" Hazelnut here!
coffee: Cuvee "Emporium" blend and/or Gevalia "Signature blend"
On that last decoder question. 63 is exactly the limit for a 6-bit binary number (255 being the limit for 8-bit). It might be interesting to check if writing a value slightly less than 255 still sets the lower 6 bits of the number correctly. For example, writing 254 in binary would be 1111-1110. If you read back the CV and see 62 (0011-1110) then that would probably indicate that for some reason the upper 2 bits of the number are not being written/set correctly and are stuck as 0s. I doubt it's an issue with the command station and more than likely an issue with the decoder (like in the video, reset it or check for a weird setting), but I'm sure the manufacturer would appreciate the information if you contact them for troubleshooting.
Have you looked at using LCC?
Question, is there a way of automating points, my idea, use a shuttle module to have the loco going backwards and forwards but have the loco run forward on one track but comback on another. drinking store bought coffee double strength no sugar. great videos.
A couple of comments:
1) whether paper, fabric, or any other material, also be mindful of their combustiblity. One reason we have "expensive" commercial scenery products today is because yesteryear's homebrewed materials could be ignited by a spark from a passing / derailed train. I, sadly, speak from experience. 😢
2) the NMRA has its roots in the 1930s with some names we'd still recognize today - Al Kalmbach and William K. Walthers, to name two. Their value to the hobby is priceless as a coordinating body for interoperability of brands within a scale.
The value of membership in the NMRA is not as clear-cut. Not all chapters are created equally. Some are insanely active, while others are on life support. A rural area might be a huge hub of activity, while a major city could be a ghost town.
For example, I grew up in New York City in the 1970s to 2010s, but the NMRA - or even train shows - were unheard-of in the 5 boros. For that one had to travel out to Long Island or New Jersey - a subway ride into Manhattan, a commuter train out of the city, and a bus or taxi to the venue. Provided, of course, the commuter trains were running in the right direction - if at all - in the evening or weekend when the show / meeting was happening. That could mean a 4 to 6 hour round-trip because Nu Yawkers don't drive.
3) I would recommend a beginner DCC system like NCE or Digitrax instead of a basic one like Bachmann's. This isn't a quality issue, but a features one. If your DCC system doesn't let you read and program the CVs, then you're just paying good money on something that restricts your ability to access all the possibilities your DCC locomotive is capable of.
The Walthers turnout motors also support a DCC address. The one drawback is that I am unable to make them work with a DS74, but they do work with their internal address.
Okay, here is another question. Just starting to build a setup. My base will be plywood or MDF (medium density fiberboard). Your thoughts on using MDF?
are you going to paint your fascia?
Awesome video! My question: Have you tried 3D printing rolling stock?
Im drinking water.
Regarding DCC control of switch machines: NCE makes a product called SwitchIt, which controls two stall type switch machines (Tortoise is a stall motor switch machine). They also make a Switch-8 which (as the name implies) will control up to eight switch machines. I've not used either of these personally.
Walther Switch Machines are addressable in DCC systems, fully integrated and full feature too. I think they are the best bang for your buck. I don't understand why they are not always included in any conversation regarding Tortoise/Smail or Cobalt
@@chrisenglish3837 I suspect you don't see Walthers machines mentioned so much because they make sense only when you want DCC functionality for your turnouts. Twenty-five bucks for a switch machine makes a lot of sense if you want DCC integration, but not so much if you just want a manually operated switch machine. You can get a Tortoise for about $15 if you shop around, or you can get a Blue Point for about $10.
I think model railroaders are pretty resistant to change - I know some modelers who still move their Peco turnouts with a bamboo skewer and they're very happy with that. As for me, I'm happy with a DPDT switch - I doubt if I ever switch to DCC turnout control.
Do I see a functional trolley stop on the layout behind you?
Try toilet paper, the shoes that are paper towels. I think they would hold up Matthews a couple sheets.
Great work. Drinking Tim's dark roast BTW. HM7000 Locofi and Blunami. Are these the future or a flash in the pan? Thanks and keep on inspiring us.
Also CVP products via their "Easy DCC" system.
You mentioned Bachmann dcc starter kits. I can only find kits with trains. I have many locomotives and would consider dcc if I could buy something reasonable with all the things needed, such as power pack, dcc controller, etc. Do you have a link?
Do we know who started the less than thrilling habit of starting videos with a drink of coffee or other innocuous beverage? It happens on several posters I'm subscribed to, and it's been several years?
I drink green mountain breakfast blend I do have a question about a video you done about 4 years ago budget railroading about using a pill bottle case a storage tank on a layout ialso use them for storing rail joiners and other small items
I'm new to the hobby. What is NMRA and what do they do?
Google NMRA. National Model Railway Association. It may actually be Railroad as it is an American institution.
Been thinking about starting a group myself, a big concern for me( offering my garage"roundhouse" layout) as a homebase) is securityaftrrbabing a visitor lift a boxcar. Confrm with everybofy they understand their worl does not earn ownership of any existing railroad. For security im thinking of a detailed video of all existing railroad & parts. How to secure from vandelism 24/7? ? Id like to just trust everybody and all they tell of the group, but...
Hi
Love the videos. Tell me i want to start an n scale layout.
I want to buy the starter packs etc. But im not sure which make to use.
There is kato and bachmann and few others.
Which one would you buy
Thanx
Shaun
Unlike us modellers where our teacks need to flow smoothly, the real railways don't always to thus. I travel the railways in the UK and I've noticed several places, usually in low speed areas, where real track formations don't give smooth transitions from one piece of track to the next.
Chock full of nuts Dark Satin. Any books to help a novice with DCV?
Do you think that the NMRA should work on setting a standard for bluetooth decoders and apps since the Bluetooth decoder from like Bluenami won't be recognized by apps like Hornby HM 7000 and probably the other way around as well?
Hello there Jimmy, I retired after 33 1/2 years from the military and decided to take up a hobby from my childhood to relax. Seems I didn't realize that how expensive an undertaking this was going to be. So this whole DCC is new and great but... I was wondering, I built and am using the arduino controller and am using my cell phone as the interface. (using your how to video) which worked great BTW. But what I don't know is and don't really understand is how much track can I run? I am looking to run about 75 feet of track, with two or three loco's running at a time. Also I have been converting DC loco's to DCC and I was wondering if I am doing something wrong as they don't seem to have as much top end speed? Any help would be most appreciated. Take care and have a good one.🚂🚃🚃🚃🚃🚃
Doug The length of the tracks is not really the determining factor, as long as you feed power at the appropriate distance.
What really determines how many locomotives you can run is your power source ie the booster, a cheat sheet is 500mA for DCC locomotives without sound and 1000mA for DCC locomotives with sound.
The speed depends on how the gearbox in the locomotive is built and the settings in the decoder.
The Soundtraxx decoder that only goes to cv5=63 is most likely a Tsunami 1, or a one off manufactured decoder. i.e. Walthers used to have Soundtraxx make like a Tsu 1.5. Mostly Tsu1 features but some Tsu2 features mixed in.
Use sandpaper and glue jt down
I have 2 questions. I just changed my loco net cable. Now I have a short at all gaps. Also the track status lights. Won't go off on the 2 boosters when you shut down the camand station. It will go off on the camand station.
I am not an expert on Digitrax systems and loconet. I would email them and ask them about it if you haven't yet. Also I would check the DCC Guy's youtube channel.
@@DIYDigitalRailroad I did. And they said it was corrupt. Or 1 of the boosters is not doing what it is. Supposed to bee doing and to send the hole system. To digitrax. So I did and am waiting to see if they can fix it.
I have a question, in DCC-EX, how do you wire a layout if you have an Arduino running DCC-EX, and you want to add DCC boosters, to try to boost the voltage and signal farther, if maybe you have a larger loop of track?
Though I rarely get to drink coffee, I like Decaf(the brand), with a little bit of vanilla creamer and no sugar.
Some great questions with great answers. Always learning something new. Can you setup a hand switch for your switchers? I think it would be fun and look realalistic on a layout.
GOD BLESS 🚂💖🚂💖🚂💖🚂💖
I’ve got 2 questions
1. What is your favorite website to purchase trains (that isn’t eBay)?
2. What is your favorite part of building a layout?
You started talking about DCC.
My question is I have older non-DCC loco's and would like to find a way to make those DCC from some kind of kit.
What are your thoughts on this or have you converted and old stuff to run DCC and which brand is better fit to do this
Hands down my two favorite N scale brands to convert are life like and Con Cor
@@DIYDigitalRailroad I forgot to mention that I have HO scale
[thank, you for youre great helpful video]👍
Here's a question, what would be the easiest DCC to get that requires no programming? I don't do computer programing, and I don't get along with cell apps. Or is the best option for me to stick with traditional DC? Also if I stick with DC, will DCC trains still perform basic running operation on DC?
A quick answer, DCC can be configured to run on DC, but generally speaking you just order the train without DCC installed and you get DC.
DCC is a low-programming environment; I use a program called JMRI to do my programming and operation at home.
Is DC or DCC better, I have been a strick DC only for all of my life, but would like to know if DCC is better or not for in the future
Thanks for another great video. I can't recommend coffee, as I prefer my water straight (no burnt bean flavor for me, thanks!)
One question I have has to do with programming (specifically, on my NCE PowerCab) - Since I can program on the main, is there any sound reason that I should have a programming track vs programming on the main?
Yes, if you need to change the address of the decoder.
Then it is easier on a programming track, because if you forget to remove all the decoders from the main track, they will also get the same address.
Just one word. Tea! Wrong side of the tracks... no .... pond... 🙂
good vid
Have you ever worked with a SPROG programmer, or JMRI?
I'm not a coffee drinker.
I use JMRI for my DCC programing and troubleshooting. Trying to use a handheld was clunky and outdated. I am used to using computer infaces as well as having the internet right there for ease of troubleshooting if I couldn't figure it out. My DCC unit is a Digikeijs DR5000.
Earl grey tea
currently drinking a Caramel Chocolate Cold Brew, with Chocolate Cold Foam from Dunkin.
I have a mixed roster of American trains, and European, and I had a double track (not anymore, in a different house) this is HO, and I had a mix of track codes, from different manufacturers, Atlas Roco, Piko. And I switched the track from DC to DCC, because I am not fully in DCC. And I realized about incompatibility of some of the equipment for Code 83, the locomotives in this code track would make”brrrrrrrrrrrrr” as they pass by ! That was about the wheel flange hitting the ties ! So I learn the lesson, and in this new track, will only be lying Code 100 ! But for sure you can make a comment. Thank you
Drink coffee!! Fresh ground Columbian!! Thanks for posting.
Today I'm drinking a mocha frappé from McDonald's. I also happened to notice the Ukrainian boxcar. I have one in HO. It's a cool piece and I'm happy that the funds made from them are going to help the people of Ukraine, which is why I bought it in the first place.
Coffee? No, I drink milk and water. I'll drink coffee when my state's farmers start growing coffee beans. Keep it local whenever possible. From America's Dairyland.
I haven't jumped in in a while, Jimmy another great video. NMRA is a good thing for the hobby, if rolling stock or locos are NMRA Type HO, O, N by Bachman, Athern, and others in same scale they should all play nice. I work in broadcast and we have to have all things playing in the concert. Early on only video tape made on a Sony would only play on a Sony or Panasonic on a Panasonic, RCA etc. SMPTE (Society of Motion Picture Technicians and Engineers makes sure all Movies and TV are interchangeable, Audio has the AES, Audio Engineering Society, and the list goes on. If there were not standards and interoperability, you might originate you web cast on an Coco-123 cell phone, people with a Coco-123 brand could see your cast but people with a Thud-Drop 80 could not as they may do same thing but not with each other. Not so many years ago there was a problem with Android based phones not being able to watch Apple Based product, and neither on PC. Now you can watch You Tube on all platforms thanks to a form of interoperability. Drinking local roasted TRAX coffee tonight.
You are giving me flashbacks to my Master Control/Tape Op days haha!
I miss the acoustic theme it was a bop
Drinking a glass of cold brew I made using Starbucks' Anniversary Blend, plenty of milk but light sugar
The Cobalt Digital IP has a Decoder built in allowing you to address just like a loco, by the way I am a Tea drinker so. PG Tips.
I used cat litter for my road bed
I have the NCE PowerCAB with the SB5. Digitrax or the ESU would have been smarter... more options.
You did mention Lenz One of the best out threr
Hi
Im drinking water
The DCC EX is just ridiculous to me. Anything that involves programming and code is just so out of my league, and I'm not necessarily OLD, it's just not in my wheelhouse and nothing I've ever studied. It seems like it should be a LOT easier and user friendly. How has somebody not just got something ready to go yet?
Also, Re: Tortoise, I know you can use some Digitrax stuff to control Tortoise switch motors. Charlie Bishop from Chadwick Model Railway uses Digitrax stuff to control his switches. I think he assigns them certain numbers and can push a code for the particular switch and hit throw, or something on his handheld unit. You can check out his videos, he's doing OO but this stuff is the same, really. He's got a ton of wiring under each one of his boards. It provides power to the frogs and everything.
One thing that's slightly simply to set up, but still not trivial, is SPROG (I think that's there company name) they make more ready oob stuff although at a slightly higher cost than dccex
@@danieleveritt4086 thanks for that tip! I’ll google.
My question is " what is the average speed of a swallow?"
Never developed the taste for coffee.
I drink tea.
Regarding DCC: The majority of folks will use an off the shelf DCC system. Arduinos are not for everyone. Yes, you save some money, but only if you consider your time spent worthless. I always advise people to spend time in the hobby on things that interest them, and buy yourself out of the rest. If DCC is just something you want to run trains, no fuss etc., buy a system. Arduinos will just frustrate you.
Louis C.K. and Tom Segura if they fused
Community.
DRINK WATER