Farmhouse Coffee Table Build (free plans in description)
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- Опубликовано: 22 авг 2020
- Tools used in this video
Speed square: amzn.to/3oJryJj
K4 Kreg Jig: amzn.to/3oq5fbt
Irwin 48” clamps: amzn.to/2Yodiem
HomeRight Paint Sprayer: amzn.to/2Mw81ii
Dewalt random orbital sander: amzn.to/3osPxwr
Jorgensen clamps: amzn.to/3j3FEnO
Here's a video of my most recent farmhouse coffee table build! The table is 48" x 28" x 18" (dimensions are approximate within 1/2" or so). The top is finished with Minwax Special Walnut, and the bottom is painted with Valspar Express Pro extra white.
This table is built completely from pine, except the legs which are Douglas fir. I planed and ripped everything before starting so my stock would be square.
The top is 4 boards - I took two 2x8x8' boards, cut them in half (to get 4 2'x4'x8" boards. I ripped them all for a straight edge and then planed them to about 1.125" thick. I put the boards together using pocket holes made with a Kreg jig K4.
The bottom shelf is made similar, but with 3/4" pine appearance board. I used left over scrap board that I already had, so I don't have exact dimensions - you could use any type of material or even plywood for this. I made this about 1/2" shorter on all sides that the top board to allow for the top piece to have an overhang.
The legs are made from 4x4 Douglar fir - each is 16.5" tall. After I have the legs cut I mark them flush with the bottom shelf, and cut out slots for the legs.
Next, I cut the length and width support frames. *IMPORTANT* - these need to be the exact same length as the bottom shelf (after the notches for the legs are cut out). I don't measure these with a tape measure, but rather use the bottom shelf to mark, and then cut exactly the same measurement (I have 4 length supports (2 top, 2 bottom), and 4 width supports (2 top, 2 bottom). (For reference the length supports are about 39" long and the width supports are about 19.5" long (they're made from 2x4 boards)).
After having the frame cut out, I attached the bottom frame pieces to the underside (where the pocket holes are) of the bottom shelf. I used wood glue and construction screws for this. (I used 2 width supports and 2 length supports here). Be sure to get the boards flush with the shelf if you're able to do so.
Next, I attached the top supports to the legs using glue and pocket hole screws. When I have this frame piece assembled, I attached it to the bottom shelf using pocket hole screws.
After the width frame pieces are attached, I can install the length supports. It's much easier to do with the table standing on one end, so the supports won't fall. I clamped them into place and used pocket hole screws to keep them in place.
After the frame is together, I added in the x's - which I ripped from some scrap stock. I overlapped the X pieces and marked the outline with a pen, then cut the angles with my miter saw. I cut a half-lap joint in the middle so the X pieces would fit flush together. These are wedged into place, and then attached through the top and bottom with screws.
Finally, after painting (valspar express extra white) and staining (minwax special walnut), I attached the top (I routered the top using a 1/4 roundover bit) using construction screws. I usually use table top buttons or table top fastners to allow for wood movement, but did not with this project.
Thanks for watching/reading, and be sure to subscribe for more!
- Matt
*DISCLAIMER* The following content is for entertainment purposes only. Woodworking and using power tools can be extremely dangerous if not done properly. YOU (the viewer) are fully responsible for understanding proper use of tools, as well as the safety features of each. I highly suggest reading the owners manual and/or watching how-to videos on the tools. I (MMCC_Woodshop) am not responsible nor liable for any injury, death, or handing of the tools you may use, nor do I assume to display the proper handing of as a demonstration. Please use extreme caution when working with any power tools. - Matt
Want to support my channel? Feel free to buy me a coffee!www.buymeacoffee.com/mmccwoodsh7 
Хобби
That gloss finish looks sharp. I usually use a flat or semi gloss but shiny can exemplify the beauty of the wood grain. Nice solid table.
Thank you! Gloss poly is one of my favorites to use, but sometimes flat or matte finishes are hard to beat!
Very cool. No gimmicks. Just a nice, simple tutorial. I learned a few tricks!
Thanks Joshua! Exactly what I was going for 👍🏻
Looks good. The folks at Titebond are loving this guy!
Thanks Mike! I'm sure they do, they should sponsor me hahah! But seriously Titebond is great stuff and has always worked well for me.
I completed the table yesterday and the wife is completely satisfied. I see imperfections but that’s my OCD coming out. I added a planer to my Christmas list, it’s a must. I appreciated the detailed instructions and video. Wanted to share a pic, but can’t seem to on here. Thx
Awesome! A planer definitely helps some of the edges come out clean, but it's not an absolute must. If you or anyone you know has Instagram feel free to DM me with pics of your build - I'm on Instagram @MMCC_Woodshop (same name as here)!
Just the kind of project I’m looking for.
Awesome! Good luck with your build!
Beautiful video editing...straight to the point. Thx
Thank you! 👍🏻
Definitely agree. Little music and perfect!
@@kevincavallaro866 Thanks for the feedback Kevin!
Very nice. Going to build one for my son
Thanks! Good luck with and enjoy your build!
Heel goed gedaan. Complimenten, zeer mooi!!!
Dank je!! (I used google translate to try to translate 'thank you' - hope that's it!)
awesome build bro! Definitely borrowing some of your methods for future projects! 👍👍
Thank Teej! Borrow away and good luck with the builds!!
Well almost done waiting for cribbage pegs so I can drill correct size hopefully Saturday
Nice! You've got this, I'm sure it'll turn out great!
Awesome furnitures
Thank you Jose!
Great project! Gotta make one of these!
Thanks Bucky! Give it a go, will keep an eye out for your video! 👍🏻 👍🏻
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 Thank you, Sir! I have to say, I am definately a Pocket Screw fan as well!
Can't beat pocket holes!!
JUST AWESOME. THANkS
You're welcome! Thanks for leaving a comment, good luck with your build!
Really Nice. Great job its refreshing to see a true craftsman displaying and sharing his talents and designs here. Great piece. Thank you for sharing. I will definitely be making one for myself using your design. As I said it is refreshing to see someone who really knows what they are doing and cares about being a true craftsman here on RUclips. Looking forward to seeing more videos and pieces from you. BTW I'm also impressed with you editing style and the thought you put into what your viewers really need to see or not see. PERFECT! Happy New Year
Thanks so much for the words! That was my intent, so others can build a piece for their, or someone's home. Good luck if you decide to build one for yourself!!
Sorry to be so offtopic but does anyone know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account?
I somehow forgot my login password. I appreciate any tips you can give me.
@Jedidiah August instablaster ;)
@Chris Derek thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and I'm in the hacking process now.
I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Chris Derek it did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thank you so much you really help me out !
Great looking table, well done. 👍
Thanks Bob!
Great video! 10 points for no talking 😂
Haha thanks buddy! I like hearing the sound of the tools rather than me rambling! 😂😂
Nice!
Thanks Todd!
Thanks so much for the video and step by step instructions. When screwing together the table top, what size kreg screws did you use? I am about to buy my first kreg jig and want to make sure I get appropriate size screws for the correct hold.
They're 2". You can use different size screws depending on how deep you drill the pocket holes, but I usually use 2" or 2.5" screws
Started this project for my Son as a Xmas gift. Got all wood to dims I require and planed. I build the top today and am waiting for glue to dry. I’ll work more tomorrow morning on the base and legs. I am changing
The size a little bit as dimensions for his living room is small so my dims are 45”. x 21”.
Also he wants checker board on top as well as a cribbage board. My question is would you drill holes for cribbage board 1st before any finish? Checker board I’m going to route very shallow v grooves (1/32” deep) with my router and a template that I’ll make. Then I’ll tape
off every other square so I can stain a different color. Did you use a sanding filler so you’d get an even stain across this entire top?
I’ll send a picture when I’m done if you’d like. Any idea how if you want? Again thanks for all the info and responses to my questions.
Awesome! That sounds like a really cool build with the checker and cribbage board features. If I was doing drilling holes, I would probably finish the top first (the clear coat), then carefully drill the holes, otherwise the polyurethane or whatever you're using will seep into the holes and keep the pegs from fitting properly. Polyurethane is pretty durable, so if you want to refinish around the holes you can get a wipe on version. This is just my opinion though, I have never done anything like that before.
As for the sanding filler, I almost never use filler unless I have a large gap that looks bag. I just stain with the grain and take some extra time to work the stain in. The easier way to send a picture would be on Instagram, at the same name as my RUclips page. I'm sure it will turn out awesome!
Loved this video. Unfortunately I don't see the link to the plans in the description.
Hey Glenn, thanks. There isn’t a link to plans, but rather dimensions listed in the description. I should’ve specified better, sorry about that.
So how did you space your pocket holes in top and did you stagger them?
I’m at that point now to make top
Thanks
Dick T
p.s.HAPPY THANKSGIVING
Happy Thanksgiving back at ya! There's really no pattern or specific spacing to the pocket holes - I just try to make sure there's no big gaps in between them - every 8-12ish inches or so is good. Try to keep the pocket holes away from knots if you can, as the knots may split or crack if you get too close.
All complete thanks for your video and info.. what site did you say to send you pics
Awesome! Send me a DM (or have someone send me a DM) on Instagram @MMCC_Woodshop !
are you concerned about the top splitting with expansion and contraction? I thought tabletop fasteners were better than screws> otherwise awesome build.
Thanks! Yes, I should have used some type of fastener for the top. Everything I've (now) read/heard says to allow for wood movement rather than just use screws. I mostly use figure 8 fasteners now. 👍🏻
I love those long clamps you used for the top, would you share where u got them?
www.amazon.com/Tools-Record-Parallel-48-inch-2026501/dp/B001DSZW1A
Here's the link! They're 48" Irwin Parallel Jaw Clamps. I got mine at Lowes for about the same price. One of the handles has actually busted and slips now from where I overtightened it. I like pipe clamps better, but these are definitely handy.
Very nicely done. I’m new to woodworking. What kind of wood of wood are you using for the top?
Thanks Gary! The top is made from Southern Yellow pine. It’s just basically wide framing lumber from a big box store (Lowe’s)
What sizes are the x braces on both ends 2x2??? Thanks Dick T. Merry Xmas
Yep! They are 2x2s
Hi, nice vid! Question, is the bottom sprayed with Valspar Antique White or Valspar Express Pro white? Also, for the top, does applying Poly coating make the wood more shiny? Thanks
Thanks! The bottom is Vaslpar express coat extra white (Antique white is more of a cream color whereas this is plain white). And yes, the polyurethane gives it the shine depending on which you buy - I used gloss (the most shine), but they make semi-gloss, satin, and matte too.
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 Thank you for confirming! Does using stain/poly combined product from Minwax have similar result?
@@hiephop21 I've never used it, so I can't say either way. The Minwax gloss poly gives an amazing shine though... Multiple coats make it even better.
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 hi, what brand of wood filler do you use? Thanks
@@hiephop21 I don't use wood filler often because I don't think it blends well. If I have to, I use Minwax stainable filler. If it's just a small gap, I'll use wood glue and some sawdust mixed to a paste (make sure the saw dust is the from the same wood you're filling the gap with).
Do you absolutely need the sprayer for the paint? Can I use a paint brush instead. Also, can this build be done without a midar saw? I have circular saw. Sorry just starting carpentery.
Nope, you definitely don’t need hem either! I’ve painted plenty of tables with a brush and used all kinds of different saws to cut boards!
Thanks for the reply. I am not able to find pine here, can I use cedar instead?
@@varunshenoy532 Definitely! This would look awesome in cedar!
I wish you lived near so I could order a table from you! :)
I know! If only we weren’t so far away! 😆
I wanted to say that I love this table. As someone new to woodworking, you make this look easy. My only question is, why use 2x8x8' boards vs 2x4x8 if you're cutting the 2x8x8 in half?
Thanks Kevin! So the 2x8x8s are cut in half long ways making two 2x8x4 boards. You could use 2x4s instead for sure but you’d have to use and join twice as many of them
Ahhhh ok. I was thinking they got cut in half 2 ways making them 2x4x4 lol.
What size screw did you use to connect the table top to the frame ?
Pretty sure they're 2". Both the frame and the top are about 1.25" thick so that's plenty of material for 2" screws. If you're using thinner stock just make sure your screws aren't too long to go through the finished top. 👍🏻👍🏻
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 yeah that’s what I was thinking. I just didn’t wanna make the mistake of going through
Thanks!
@@PhilD54 Sure thing! I've mistakenly gone through the top plenty of times, we've all been there haha
Total how much was build ballpark. I'd like to make one.
Lumber + screws/glue + paint + stain is probably about $70-80 in materials. Good luck with the build!
Why do you screw these tops together but not a full table top?
No specific reason - I just used to use pocket hole joinery much more than I do now. As long as you can get a joint and clamp properly, screws aren't necessary.
How did you keep the wood grain from showing through on the painted portions?
I just went heavy with a couple coats of paint. The paint is Valspar antique white - it settles really nicely and almost flows to a smooth surface after it's on. Using a paint sprayer to get a good finish really helps as well.
With this "type" of joinery it will be full of cracks in no time.
I definitely should’ve attached the top with z clips or some type of fastener to allow for wood movement!
Did you primer before paint?
Nope, I didn't on this one
Man your awesome. Do you sell any of your pieces?
Yes, mainly only locally due to shipping costs.
The tv stand was by far my favorite you made. i am currently looking for something like that. Means so much more to have something built to that quality. Keep up the awesome work
@@jerryparker6980 Thanks, appreciate the nice words! The TV stand was such a fun build. You can definitely make some nice furniture out of pine!
Did you primer frst?.
I can’t remember if I used primer on this one, but I usually do use primer. Primer will make the paint finish look much nicer
How much $ would you say you spend ?
Probably $70-80ish at the time when I built this. Wood prices have gone up quite a bit recently
How much $ do you get for this table?
I usually charge between $150 and $250 for one like this. I think they could definitely sell for more though.
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 Thank you for your timely response.
Where are the plans?
Hi Mandie! All the materials I used are at the very beginning of the video, and I wrote out how I did everything the description (cut lengths of the all the boards are included in the description). Let me know if you have any questions or if a part of the video doesn't make sense, I'd be happy to help!
So where are the plans please??
Check out the description - I listed the lengths and dimensions of each piece 👍🏻
Free plans in the description ?
Hey Stoik, the description has a detailed summary including the dimensions of every piece. Thanks for watching!
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 Thanks 👍 !
“Free Plans in description”. Can’t find the plans….
Hey Ernest, the plans are the detailed description I wrote. Here's a short version:
Legs: 16.5" tall (x4)
Top: 48" x 7" (x4)
Short aprons: 19.5" (x4)
Long aprons: 39" (x4)
Bottom shelf: ~46" x 26.5"
X pieces: at least ~28" (x4)
Thanks for watching!
Where r the plans ?
Check out the description for dimensions and step by step instructions!
Sent you pics in message on Instagram check it out
Got the pics, and they looks great! You did a great job.. The cribbage and checkerboard go so well on the top, your craftsmanship is excellent! Thank you for sharing the pics!
You wear a mask when you're cutting wood but not when you're painting?
I figured I was outside and the wind was blowing away from me, instead of inside with no ventilation... but yeah I probably should be wearing one while painting.
14 ppl mad cause they probably didn't have the tool they needed
😂 😂
Instead of using multiple pieces of wood for the tabletop, why not use simply ONE larger piece of good wood, so that the Farmhouse look isn't totally in play for novice woodworkers? Why do beginning woodeorkers need to make Farmhouse-style pieces, anyway, with tons of slat pieces?
Hey Jerre! A solid slab top would be sick! I think it often comes down to pricing, a 24-28” slab of oak or walnut would probably cost 2-3x what I sold this table for.
@@mmcc_woodshop6288
What did this table sell for?
Add a voice over or music please.
Thanks for the suggestion, I will try in one of my upcoming videos!