Very excited for the North Star build. I know everyone’s gonna want peak power, but reliability solutions could actually make this engine a new option for serious street cars.
The north star is a good powerhouse so more power isn’t necessary, reliability is what plagued these. Quite unfortunate because they are such smooth engines.
As a former Cadillac technician, gear head and current owner of a Northstar powered car, I’m very excited to see someone using one of these in a performance application. Like most engines, they had their issues but the problems are fixable. I love the Northstar engine! Can’t wait to see how it turns out.
@@fataldreams2 I always heard a big problem was GM built a performance engine, tested it by running it hard...then failed to consider the Cadillac demographic of the day was elderly folk who drove...sedately. Apparently, oil rings seal a lot better if ya give it the ol' "Italian Tune Up" on a regular basis.
@@bcubed72 this is partially true. I think a few of the issues people have with these engines losing performance is that they don't use premium gas. But as for thrashing the engine occasionally, I have definitely noticed that if I baby my Northstars for even a couple weeks, they start running grumpy and the valvetrain gets loud. After some stoplight exuberant takeoffs or making sure I'm the first one getting into the interstate, the engine is happy again and the valvetrain is quiet. 🤷 Northstars love to sing soprano.
LS1 engine also had oil consumption problems in the beginning. Holden replaced a whole lot of engines because of this. Probably did not have the right hone on the bore - modern rings are low tension compared with older ones. Much finer hone required - GM was probably still learning. And an "Italian: tune up might have worked at bedding in rings and bore better.
@@fataldreams2 allow me to add some first hand experience. In the summer of 2002, I was tasked to remove and teardown the Northstar of a late 01 DTS. 18K and a verified 2 qts between 4k interval oil changes. That afternoon as I removed the long block from the engine cradle(car above with the engine cradle holding the transmission and engine supported by 4 jack stands), the engineer showed up. He ordered dinner and observed as I worked. His main concern was the cylinder wall finish and the rings. Cylinder walls were glazed with very little cross hatch. He took readings with a profilometer but would not share.(Cmon man....I thought we were sharing a moment) Top rings all moved freely and had tension left to them.(duh less than 20k they better) 2nd ring not so much. Seized in the ring land with no tension once free. Oil rings carboned up and seized to the piston. All internal parts were thrown in the parts washer with a "soap" that he brought with him. We waited for 2 hours, killed a ⅕ of Johnny Walker Blue I kept in my box, and what I got from him was this: "GM got ahead of themselves with a high compression high performance engine for the(at that time) senior citizen. Short drive times and a lack of proper engine temps leave hydrocarbons high. Plus moisture in the oil that remains and remains and remains from never seeing engine operating temps of at least 210(where the moisture is usually boiled out) aid in the build up on the pistons. Thus seized rings and and no oil control on the cylinder walls. The cylinder wall finish isn't the greatest either. The valleys aren't valley enough and when the ring shears off the peaks there's no lubrication for the ring and excessive heat helps the carbon build and we have what we have here tonight." I shook my head and kept it to myself like he asked. Honestly at the time I was a year out of school and just wanted to go home. On reassembly the cylinders were ball honed(320) as per GM engineer and a Napier 2nd ring installed. That's it. The DTS returned every 4k for an oil change to our team. I changed the oil 3 times since the initial repair and zero oil consumption recorded. I hope that helps.
Thanks. I always struggle to make them longer because I don't want to waste people's time. So many videos out there just don't mind having minutes of complete dead time. I want you to click on one of our videos and be excited.
Its always more fun to make power out of something most people call junk than buying everything available for something thats tried and true to do the same thing, im a Ford guy so i appreciate what Calvin does for the oddity engines on GM engines that ive done with a lot of Ford “junk” engines and made great power…..end result is they are all just big air pumps, the more air in/out the more power it makes then you break stuff, upgrade and repeat lol
The 4.0 Lexus and 4.7 have the starter in the valley like that. They use the finest starters made and they rarely need replacement before 250,000 miles. When you are using top quality components the location makes perfect sense. I’ve seen starters mounted outside the block on certain vehicles that are far more difficult to remove than the design of putting them in the valley.
Never had to change a starter on a 2000 suburban with 360,000 mi on it. Biggest issue is that you would have to wind up replacing the intake gaskets on the toyota/lexus, nissan and this northstar, not worth it.
@@shadowopsairman1583How is it 'not worth it', to have fresh gaskets on an engine? A lot of modern engines with this sort of set up have replaced the manifold gaskets with o-rings style seals in grooves, easy to fit new ones in and have the peace of mind of knowing the gaskets or o-rings are fresh new and properly sealed, regardless of why the old ones were removed.
NSP sells the valvespring upgrade package. Enjoy the path to big gulping mouthfuls of air north of 8500 rpm!! Even the original terd 1993 engines were capable of a TON of naturally aspirated power with the head bolt repair and valvespring upgrades. Grab a spare set of cams, have them re-profiled. With the variable valve timing, you can unlock well over 400whp NA, Even the 4.0 liter variants kick out over 300whp when tuned!! Gotta love the high compression!!
Your mom is a gem. The guys at Northstar Performance know this engine and they have been working on them for a while. Sometimes it isn't the engine, it is the people that take it under their wing to understand them and figure out solutions.
My son bought a 96 Deville about 2 yrs. ago with the northstar engine. His plan was to take that engine out and put in a built for boost LS4 5.3 engine. The engine is built, sitting in his garage. He is waiting for the northstar to start having problems before he changes it all out. That northstar in it is strong and has no leaks.
@@THESLlCKThe previous owner was an old man who died. I think he took very good care of the car. My son had to replace the water pump a while back and put new tires on it. It has been a cheap car to own for him over the last 2 yrs. He doesn't drive it much now since he got a new pickup.
Calvin, the rate you’re putting out great content on this channel, especially recently, is so impressive! Kudos to you and your family, keep up the great work and thanks for sharing your knowledge with us!
I have/had a turbo northstar from a fiero project in 2009 on an engine stand. I didnt kill it but we pushed coolant more than once and I got tired of head work, swapping heads and doing head gaskets. I puked water on the dyno but we made a 550 hp kick, 650hp run and I had gotten over 700 when it burned through the head gasket and spit water all over the dyno. It finished the run, but with water on everything I didnt get a good value, even though it did make 22psi. If I had a chance to do this again I would make copper gaskets and install a fire ring on the heads. At the time we were using hp tuners and a LC3 ecm and harness with disabled vvt function (my engine didnt have it). Also its good to hear northstar performance is still in business. Cheers, looking forward to seeing this one.
Those LC3's are badass. Head and main studs are a given and another problem when chasing horsepower is the open deck. My thinking is to machine for aluminum standoffs, then oring or hoop in the head with reciever in the block. Ive been playing with the 3.5L v6 version, i had planned to adapt an m90 but i think ive discovered how i can use the v8 blower. I love it when this stuff gets old enough i can play with it for next to nothing. To bad Holdener ran the price of those NOS ebay blowers up, wish i had bought a slew of them when they were a few hundred bux.
Northstar was the first most experienced with it because as we all know Toyotas Never Break. That said, I do like the lower failure rate on getting the starter out from near the exhaust.
People who winge about valley starters, have never changed to one in a Renault 16TS - it's under the heat sheild , below the exhaust manifold that wraps over it, and because it's a T-drive (like mid-rear, but with the diff flipped so a longitudinal front mounted engine drives the front wheels) with a aero-form underbody that has openings for sump and exhaust pipe only, you remove the bonnet for access, then lean in to get to that manifold, it comes off to get to the heat sheild, to get to the starter, down through a gap about 12cm wide, 30cm long and 45cm deep. Pulling the inlet manifold to get to a starter doesn't seem so bad, eh? Oh, and did I mention, that on RHD cars the steering and gear linkage is in the way too. 😅
@@PiDsPagePrototypesJeep Cherokee/Compass/etc with 2.4, 9-speed, AWD. Pulling a transfer case to get to a starter was not on my new car repair hell BINGO card.
@@RotaryJunkie My daily is an '02 Grand Voyager 3.3 AWD, I did engine swap to replace the broken motor I bought it with (everything was immaculate, and it was a bargain) without pulling or disconnecting the AC, ABS, power steering, Transmission,.. book method is pull the engine & trans as a unit, downwards, I did engine only, upwards, because I didn't have the budget to get regassed AC, or rebuit power steer,... Then had to do it all again because I forgot to swap the tone wheel in the second hand '04 motor for the one that suits the '02 ECU,... four years later, I can't even remember where the starter is! :D Going to get an '07 Spec Jeep 3.8 and manual trans, to drop in to my '66 VC Valiant - Compared to a worked Slant Six, it'll be 100 kilos lighter, move the engines mass back behind the front axle, and factor stock has about a third more power out of the box,... more power plus less mass equals more fun.
the head bolt problem was a corrosion issue, and they changed the block alloy in the mid 2000's iirc. oil leaks could be caused by porosity as well, there are a bunch of TSB's for oil leaks. as for the main bolts and head bolts that break, take a blow torch and heat the head of the bolt cherry hot, like ready to burn with oxy hot, then let it cool. It strecths the bolt and relaxs the tq
No one would ever mistake me for a gearhead and I struggled to understand the purpose for half the stuff you referenced, but this still was a great video. Thanks for sharing your sage knowledge. Keep em coming! I wish I had a better grasp of all things automotive. Maybe in my next life.
Hell im probably the farthest person from being a Northstar guy but im all about odd ball builds and this is about as odd ball as it can get lol, i appreciate anybodys efforts to try something different no matter if its a win or fail at least they tried. Rather see a North star than another LS, they been done to death so they are well up there on the boredom scale now. Good luck Calvin, wish you well hoss
I want too build a ford connect transit van into a quarter mile monster using a 3.5 ecoboost. This build alone would get a lot of attention because it's a normal road vehicle lol.
When I did my 99 Northstar 14 years ago, I used a threaded insert kit that had course external threads and fine internal for factory head bolts. It worked well. The worse part was that the aluminum seemed more gummy than the other blocks that I have Machined like LS. You had to go slow and back the tap out a few times to clean aluminum out of the tap threads.
This come to be one of my favorite channels. Can't wait to see what kind of power this Northstar will hold or put out! Between the Northstar and the 4200 I'm excited for both of these builds. Keep up the good work and can't wait for the next video.
That Northstar is the best version with the VVT. They addressed the head bolt issue in this version. But, it was a paltry attempt at best. You're better off doing that Northstar Performance bullet proofing system. I used Northstar Performance on a Cadillac XLR-V. It too was supercharged. You're going to make a monster engine.
Another great video. Awesome to see your mom helping out and being part of the project. You spent a lot of time going through that motor and looking forward to seeing it roar to life!
cant wait to see what this thing can do, i hope the northstar will prove itself as a worthwhile platform after you eliminated its most common weaknesses.
People complained about the Northstar starter because it wasn't grandpa's old-school small block and it was smoking most other cars ass in a 4500 pound car.. lol
This is really a great idea and project,can’t wait till it’s boosted! Have you seen the LS engine with the LT5 dohc cylinder heads on it? He ran the timing chains off of the LS camshaft,so 3 chains. Pretty cool!
If you mean Ardema Braun I believe they converted the cams to belt drive off of the extended existing cam shaft. Same size cog wheels on all 5 shafts as the shaft in the valley already had the 2:1 reduction. They were lucky in that Lotus used the same borespread and the same bolt pattern as the OHV engines. Normally OHC V type engines have a right and left cylinder head. GM on the DOHC LQ-1 V-6 used the same head on both sides with the right hand side (from the output side) getting an extended cam housing and cams.
Thanks for your time used on really nice engine like Barra and the Duramax 4,2. I never thought that I would like to think about The NorthStar engine but now I`m not sure........ Well done sir.... very well done. It is a blast to a kit-car and even better now then before...... just trilled.
I've always wanted a Northstar since back before the common issues were even known. Then I gave up, because I felt like it would never see the support I felt it deserved. Now I expect it to get a huge amount of support after you show just how capable it is, especially since it already has at least some aftermarket as compared to the other underdog you've been bringing to light. Looking forward to all the support the Atlas will likely get now too, as I really want a 4200 powered GMT360. Was originally going to go 5.3 powered, but you opened my eyes and now I am for sure going 4200. Only problem is that transmission and what to do when it goes out, as I would want to retain the AWD.
I was just mentioning you when I was at the junkyard yesterday when my friend and I saw a NorthStar engine and pondered where you were with that and less than 24 hrs later you've released an update. Keep it up. Things looks great.
Heck yeah bro ... i have always thought these had so so much potential with the overhead cam setup .. glad you are on this ... and man u not kidding , that head stud kit looked so straight forword even a non car guy could do it 😅... peace and love bro keep it rad stay safe and build on and keep having fun bro .. l8z
The air hammer bit should have sponsored you! I bought one half way through this video. I've had too many bolts break on me due to rust or corrosion. I'm looking forward to using it myself.
Only the 2nd video of yours I have watched, easily one of the most thought through and logical motor heads on all of the youtubes. Appreciate the great content and effort!
I love your 66 Ford pick-up and someday would like to get one rangoon red and wimbledon white. My father had one I learned to drive with and fond memories
Im a Chrysler guy but I've always liked the Northstar, But Ford has seem to revolutionized DOHC Engines V8 wise Modular Motors, INTECH V8 Engines, that Engine was a Direct Competitor to the Northstar, 4.6 is actually a Good motor too, My Real Statement is could this be a Competitor to the Infamous FORD Coyote Engine since it is a DOHC design, Im waiting too to see what kind of Boost Can the Northstar actually take & live, I've always wondered what kind of power a Northstar can make, This Guy Calvin is really starting to show some of GM's Engines that people never really considered til this guy came along and started bringing these possibilities to life, I definitely wanna see this First the Atlas Engines now the Northstar this should be good cant wait 👍😁
sleep very well.... thx for sharing.. i used this kit @ my NS and can say: It is not ver precise, but practical. hope it works very well in your project !!
EXcelent Job ! You're the Saint Patron of the Outcasts, Oddballs, Freaks and Rejects Engine's Church ! Keep doing your own thing ! Anyone can drop an LS in anything nowadays BUT your projects are the real VIP's ! Looking forward to the next episode.😊👍
5:58 my 2001 Deville engine had 166k miles. It only had one loose bolt. I believe it was stripped out at the factory. I rethread that one hole and torque new Felpro bolts to 50 lbs. The engine didn't run hot anymore.
If you’ve ever tried to swap an LS into a small bellhousing transmission then you’ll know why they put the starter there. Personally I think it’s a great compromise. Great content as always, keep it up!
I have a fully rebuilt "bulletproofed" Northstar in my 99 Deville. It is so smooth and fast enough with a tuned ECU (300hp and 300+ torqueyboyz). well worth the money i paid my Caddy expert here in SoCal. Thanks CC!!!!
Hey man did you ever have problems with your timing chain cover and oil pan seal? I have a lady friend that got a 97 Seville 62000 miles real beauty but it has some oil and coolant leaks wondering if you had any advice as I'm trying to help a friend and get her running strong 💪🏾
I had a 96, 2001 and a 2006 Cadillac with a northstar. I drove all of them for over 180,000 miles with no problems. I loved them all. I enjoyed the 2006 DTS the best. I really loved my DTS 197,000 miles before I got another vehicle.
They were like 0.018-0.019 top and 0.025+ bottom. One piston had the bottom ring a little tighter, but most of them I just opened the top up to 0.025. I probably could have gotten away without gapping them.
A left-hand drill bit gets them out EVERY time....piece of cake. My dealership, back in 2001, kept the main bolts in stock by the hundreds. We did A LOT of lower crankcase reseals. Gravy.
So I worked on a SRX not too long ago. Those cam actuator solenoids you need to order yourself some "plugs" for them online. You can also just glue the old ones back in. When you install the 4 actuators you have to use like a .030 dowel you take the little plastic plug out of center and you put the down in where the plug was at before tightening it down.
I love these engines and seeing you fixing the problems is making me happy :-) I personally own a Cadillac Eldorado from 96 with just a few miles on it but thinking of switching my turbo charged Volvo B230 engine out for a Northstar in my Super Seven.
The head bolt issues were supposedly resolved in later models as they switched to a larger bolt with courser threads. There is an aftermarket head stud kit with drill template available to fix the early engines.
You are a very good mechanic. You can tackle problems, and not complain. You just do it. And i know its not easy to have to fix not so good of engineers problems now day's, because they are not very good now day's
Wow it's crazy to see your channel blow up like this. I was looking at something on Inliners International the other day and saw someone had mentioned you. Keep up the good work man it's paying off.
@Calvin-Nelson Thanks for posting this video! I posted in another video but wanted to mention it again - you can get reground cams from Delta Cams. There was even a Cadillac performance shop in Texas that sold the Delta regrounds along with Madtuner mail order style retunes. Sadly, both companies are gone now. Anyway, you can get your cams reground, and Delta has several fantastic options, just make sure to say they are roller cams or they'll refuse to work on Northstar cams. The stock LH2 intake has a long tube inside with a 90 deg bend that feeds the main plenum. By chopping a slit in the bottom of the intake for access, you can hog out the entire long tube. Make a cap for the rear of the intake and close the bottom of the intake back up with pop-rivets and epoxy. Doing all this will roughly double the intake plenum area, and really help feed air above 5,500 when the stock intake starts being a bottleneck. I also radiused the runner inlets and reduced the injector bosses, it all adds up. My modified intakes handle above 20 psi boost without issue. 😁 Research the LC3 Northstar. The block may be stronger. Also, it has some interesting features like piston squirters and a larger oil pump. If you need to oil a pair of turbos on your LH2, consider using a LC3 oil pump and the the oil filter adapter, which has provisions for an external oil cooler that could conveniently tee out to turbos. Do consider using the ECU and harness from a 2008+ Cadillac STS, you can tune it with HP Tuners, it's super capable and would be easier than adapting an aftermarket system. Same for using the stock trans ECU. I have much more to chat about, hit me up.
Yeah. I'm working on regrinds. Planning to run the intake as is for now, unless someone wants to help out with something. We already own an LC3 and yes, they have a closed deck. The stock ECU is a nightmare to tune based on what I have seen. Having to maintain a fuel table for every possible intake and exhaust cam position is a bit painful. It adds up to like 600+ fuel tables that you have to mess with. The plan is to use a LinkEcu on this one.
@@Calvin-Nelson there may be 600+ tables if you're taking each slice from what should be a 3d map! 😆 Look at this short video for a glimpse: ruclips.net/video/ZzBm7mRhGj8/видео.html Anyway, the E67 ECU is super common. It's the same that's used with later LH2 and all LC3 engines, along with a crazy number of other GM cars and other manufacturers like Volvo. Tuning resources for the E67 ECU are a plenty. Talk to Delta about your cams. Last roller cams they did for me were like $150/cam, if I remember. That's cheap and they spec'd out very accurate. Maybe they'd sponsor you!?
I clicked on this so hard, I broke my mouse. 😛 Edit to add: The head and main stud kit from Northstar Performance looks nice. I wish there were hotter cams available. I bet a Northstar at 9k RPM would sound amazing!
Very stoked to see the running product, and the numbers it’ll put down. I have a big soft spot for these engines! Very impressive power from their smaller displacement in their time, and honestly, outside of the fastener issues they’re known for, and their admittedly subpar cooling systems they were usually saddled with, everything you need to make big power is there. Good intake geometry, a very stout valvetrain, an extremely solid bottom-end, and high RPM potential, unfortunately hampered by GM bean counters, as is usual. With the N* performance parts, I have very high hopes for the build!
have you thought about doing some copper orings in the block? Isky sells two size tools for it. I started doing it on my 4 bangers and havn't had a HG problem even at 70 PSI.
Cal, another handy as pockets on a shirt trip through this work. I have a question; what do you listen to when you build an engine of anything? The lone guitar melody was pretty cool- not distracting and forward leaning all the way through. Saw Mom in the garage keeping you on track! Best to your Dad!
HAVE YOU SEEN THE BEN ALAMEDA VIDEO ON TORQUING BOLTS AND BANGING ON THEM WITH A BRASS DRIFT AND A BIG HAMMER THEN RETORQUE THE BOLTS WHAT DO YOU THINK ?
It was interesting. Being from So Cal. The desert scene pretty big near me. A lot of buggy builders back then were using North Stars because they could get them cheap. I asked one of the builders and he told me the were all warranty replacements. He said all the one's he was getting were broken cranks. It makes me wonder if there was a late version like yours with a girdle. I wonder if it fixes the broken crank issues?
I think you will shocked at how powerful this engine will be. When GM designs engines they usually build it to make 50-100% more power than they will be used at then de tune them for the chassis they are destined for. Notice how no fwd car ever eclipsed 300hp because they choked it down for driveability.
Noyce!!! Its about time imagine if they made a tall deck high nickel content iron block like the lsx block for this application the ohv design is definitely superior just needs beefed up and performance parts available it definitely has lots of potential for upgrades if they were available
Thank you! I have a 94 and an 03. I would like to put the 94 STS engine in the back of a CAN AM replica or a 30s truck with the FWD transmission . But figuring out the suspension might be a nightmare I need to figure out where I need to figure out where to start.
Very excited for the North Star build. I know everyone’s gonna want peak power, but reliability solutions could actually make this engine a new option for serious street cars.
The north star is a good powerhouse so more power isn’t necessary, reliability is what plagued these. Quite unfortunate because they are such smooth engines.
@@RadDadisRad Would be a good option after the improvements for a shoe box Chevy or other light GM classic, especially in front of a T56
I think it was the first two years they had issues, but were pretty good after that.
@@methanial73more like they were pretty good the last couple years. Before that they sucked
I hope we can fully see this project through
As a former Cadillac technician, gear head and current owner of a Northstar powered car, I’m very excited to see someone using one of these in a performance application. Like most engines, they had their issues but the problems are fixable. I love the Northstar engine! Can’t wait to see how it turns out.
Why were they designed to “use” oil?
@@fataldreams2 I always heard a big problem was GM built a performance engine, tested it by running it hard...then failed to consider the Cadillac demographic of the day was elderly folk who drove...sedately. Apparently, oil rings seal a lot better if ya give it the ol' "Italian Tune Up" on a regular basis.
@@bcubed72 this is partially true. I think a few of the issues people have with these engines losing performance is that they don't use premium gas. But as for thrashing the engine occasionally, I have definitely noticed that if I baby my Northstars for even a couple weeks, they start running grumpy and the valvetrain gets loud. After some stoplight exuberant takeoffs or making sure I'm the first one getting into the interstate, the engine is happy again and the valvetrain is quiet. 🤷
Northstars love to sing soprano.
LS1 engine also had oil consumption problems in the beginning. Holden replaced a whole lot of engines because of this. Probably did not have the right hone on the bore - modern rings are low tension compared with older ones. Much finer hone required - GM was probably still learning. And an "Italian: tune up might have worked at bedding in rings and bore better.
@@fataldreams2 allow me to add some first hand experience.
In the summer of 2002, I was tasked to remove and teardown the Northstar of a late 01 DTS. 18K and a verified 2 qts between 4k interval oil changes. That afternoon as I removed the long block from the engine cradle(car above with the engine cradle holding the transmission and engine supported by 4 jack stands), the engineer showed up. He ordered dinner and observed as I worked.
His main concern was the cylinder wall finish and the rings. Cylinder walls were glazed with very little cross hatch. He took readings with a profilometer but would not share.(Cmon man....I thought we were sharing a moment)
Top rings all moved freely and had tension left to them.(duh less than 20k they better) 2nd ring not so much. Seized in the ring land with no tension once free. Oil rings carboned up and seized to the piston. All internal parts were thrown in the parts washer with a "soap" that he brought with him. We waited for 2 hours, killed a ⅕ of Johnny Walker Blue I kept in my box, and what I got from him was this:
"GM got ahead of themselves with a high compression high performance engine for the(at that time) senior citizen. Short drive times and a lack of proper engine temps leave hydrocarbons high. Plus moisture in the oil that remains and remains and remains from never seeing engine operating temps of at least 210(where the moisture is usually boiled out) aid in the build up on the pistons. Thus seized rings and and no oil control on the cylinder walls. The cylinder wall finish isn't the greatest either. The valleys aren't valley enough and when the ring shears off the peaks there's no lubrication for the ring and excessive heat helps the carbon build and we have what we have here tonight."
I shook my head and kept it to myself like he asked. Honestly at the time I was a year out of school and just wanted to go home.
On reassembly the cylinders were ball honed(320) as per GM engineer and a Napier 2nd ring installed. That's it.
The DTS returned every 4k for an oil change to our team. I changed the oil 3 times since the initial repair and zero oil consumption recorded.
I hope that helps.
Awesome Calvin!! Thanks for the shout out on our SureGrip Head Stud Kit and thanks for the business! You did an amazing job here. :) :)
Like he said its just amazing kit..... AND I like to second that.
Eazy pezy for all DIY........ I thought why did I not figure it out!!
Did anyone else notice the pressure washer back away in fright when Calvin was wheeling out the motor to be washed lol.
That bolt knocker deal is genius. I use to do something similar on semi truck wheel nuts that were seized.
Dude your mom is a real one, it’s awesome to see y’all’s love for automotive performance is literally a family deal
I enjoy longer videos. I don’t get bored easily when the content is good like yours.👍
Thanks. I always struggle to make them longer because I don't want to waste people's time. So many videos out there just don't mind having minutes of complete dead time. I want you to click on one of our videos and be excited.
I really enjoy your videos linger format wouldn't bother me at all.. thanks for the video man
@@Calvin-Nelson I think you've struck a decent balance here
@@Calvin-Nelsondid you buy the bolt knocker or breaker from harbor freight? Looks like something I need .
@@BruceLee-xn3nn No I guess from Northstar performance Inc.
I swear this man loves pain with the strange engines he chooses to build with little to 0 aftermarket support.
As always great video man!!!
Making custom parts is half the fun.
for science
yea its fun
IMO it's a nice change of pace from the cookie-cutter LS V8 stuff.
Its always more fun to make power out of something most people call junk than buying everything available for something thats tried and true to do the same thing, im a Ford guy so i appreciate what Calvin does for the oddity engines on GM engines that ive done with a lot of Ford “junk” engines and made great power…..end result is they are all just big air pumps, the more air in/out the more power it makes then you break stuff, upgrade and repeat lol
The 4.0 Lexus and 4.7 have the starter in the valley like that. They use the finest starters made and they rarely need replacement before 250,000 miles. When you are using top quality components the location makes perfect sense. I’ve seen starters mounted outside the block on certain vehicles that are far more difficult to remove than the design of putting them in the valley.
My 04 Envoy 5.3 XUV for example.
Never had to change a starter on a 2000 suburban with 360,000 mi on it. Biggest issue is that you would have to wind up replacing the intake gaskets on the toyota/lexus, nissan and this northstar, not worth it.
@@shadowopsairman1583How is it 'not worth it', to have fresh gaskets on an engine? A lot of modern engines with this sort of set up have replaced the manifold gaskets with o-rings style seals in grooves, easy to fit new ones in and have the peace of mind of knowing the gaskets or o-rings are fresh new and properly sealed, regardless of why the old ones were removed.
So did the LT5 in the 90-95 ZR-1s.
NSP sells the valvespring upgrade package. Enjoy the path to big gulping mouthfuls of air north of 8500 rpm!! Even the original terd 1993 engines were capable of a TON of naturally aspirated power with the head bolt repair and valvespring upgrades.
Grab a spare set of cams, have them re-profiled. With the variable valve timing, you can unlock well over 400whp NA, Even the 4.0 liter variants kick out over 300whp when tuned!!
Gotta love the high compression!!
Hoping to get some cams down the road.
@@Calvin-NelsonDecent cams, with that huuuuge port leading in to the valves, it's going to flow a heck of a lot of air.
@@PiDsPagePrototypesalmost a straight shot 💉.
The 4.0 has thicker cylinder walls, right? Great for boost...no wonder the LMP car used it.
Your mom is a gem. The guys at Northstar Performance know this engine and they have been working on them for a while. Sometimes it isn't the engine, it is the people that take it under their wing to understand them and figure out solutions.
My son bought a 96 Deville about 2 yrs. ago with the northstar engine. His plan was to take that engine out and put in a built for boost LS4 5.3 engine. The engine is built, sitting in his garage. He is waiting for the northstar to start having problems before he changes it all out. That northstar in it is strong and has no leaks.
He should hold onto the northstar, build it up and put it in something else!
@@K-1.0.1.0He fell in love with the car and wants to leave it alone for now. Car only has 50,000 miles.
@@kevin122759 they are amazing cars.
I still remember the fist time I drove a 94 Eldorado. I couldn't believe how smooth and quick it was.
@@kevin122759 what kind of maintenance did the previous owner do and what has it costed him so far?
@@THESLlCKThe previous owner was an old man who died. I think he took very good care of the car. My son had to replace the water pump a while back and put new tires on it. It has been a cheap car to own for him over the last 2 yrs. He doesn't drive it much now since he got a new pickup.
Calvin, the rate you’re putting out great content on this channel, especially recently, is so impressive! Kudos to you and your family, keep up the great work and thanks for sharing your knowledge with us!
What a great mother you can tell she loves her son.we need more mom's like that.. great video
I have/had a turbo northstar from a fiero project in 2009 on an engine stand. I didnt kill it but we pushed coolant more than once and I got tired of head work, swapping heads and doing head gaskets. I puked water on the dyno but we made a 550 hp kick, 650hp run and I had gotten over 700 when it burned through the head gasket and spit water all over the dyno. It finished the run, but with water on everything I didnt get a good value, even though it did make 22psi. If I had a chance to do this again I would make copper gaskets and install a fire ring on the heads. At the time we were using hp tuners and a LC3 ecm and harness with disabled vvt function (my engine didnt have it). Also its good to hear northstar performance is still in business. Cheers, looking forward to seeing this one.
Those LC3's are badass. Head and main studs are a given and another problem when chasing horsepower is the open deck. My thinking is to machine for aluminum standoffs, then oring or hoop in the head with reciever in the block. Ive been playing with the 3.5L v6 version, i had planned to adapt an m90 but i think ive discovered how i can use the v8 blower. I love it when this stuff gets old enough i can play with it for next to nothing. To bad Holdener ran the price of those NOS ebay blowers up, wish i had bought a slew of them when they were a few hundred bux.
The 1uz and nissan 5.6 have the starter in the valley but people love to hate on gm
Northstar was the first most experienced with it because as we all know Toyotas Never Break.
That said, I do like the lower failure rate on getting the starter out from near the exhaust.
To be fair, people have complained about the UZ starter location.
People who winge about valley starters, have never changed to one in a Renault 16TS - it's under the heat sheild , below the exhaust manifold that wraps over it, and because it's a T-drive (like mid-rear, but with the diff flipped so a longitudinal front mounted engine drives the front wheels) with a aero-form underbody that has openings for sump and exhaust pipe only, you remove the bonnet for access, then lean in to get to that manifold, it comes off to get to the heat sheild, to get to the starter, down through a gap about 12cm wide, 30cm long and 45cm deep.
Pulling the inlet manifold to get to a starter doesn't seem so bad, eh?
Oh, and did I mention, that on RHD cars the steering and gear linkage is in the way too. 😅
@@PiDsPagePrototypesJeep Cherokee/Compass/etc with 2.4, 9-speed, AWD. Pulling a transfer case to get to a starter was not on my new car repair hell BINGO card.
@@RotaryJunkie My daily is an '02 Grand Voyager 3.3 AWD, I did engine swap to replace the broken motor I bought it with (everything was immaculate, and it was a bargain) without pulling or disconnecting the AC, ABS, power steering, Transmission,.. book method is pull the engine & trans as a unit, downwards, I did engine only, upwards, because I didn't have the budget to get regassed AC, or rebuit power steer,... Then had to do it all again because I forgot to swap the tone wheel in the second hand '04 motor for the one that suits the '02 ECU,... four years later, I can't even remember where the starter is! :D
Going to get an '07 Spec Jeep 3.8 and manual trans, to drop in to my '66 VC Valiant - Compared to a worked Slant Six, it'll be 100 kilos lighter, move the engines mass back behind the front axle, and factor stock has about a third more power out of the box,... more power plus less mass equals more fun.
the head bolt problem was a corrosion issue, and they changed the block alloy in the mid 2000's iirc. oil leaks could be caused by porosity as well, there are a bunch of TSB's for oil leaks. as for the main bolts and head bolts that break, take a blow torch and heat the head of the bolt cherry hot, like ready to burn with oxy hot, then let it cool. It strecths the bolt and relaxs the tq
Wow, that air hammer trick is promising, I look forward to seeing how it works on a 4200!
Any update on this project?
No one would ever mistake me for a gearhead and I struggled to understand the purpose for half the stuff you referenced, but this still was a great video. Thanks for sharing your sage knowledge. Keep em coming! I wish I had a better grasp of all things automotive. Maybe in my next life.
Northstar Build!?! Yes, subscribed! Do things not because they are easy, but because they are hard.
Hell im probably the farthest person from being a Northstar guy but im all about odd ball builds and this is about as odd ball as it can get lol, i appreciate anybodys efforts to try something different no matter if its a win or fail at least they tried. Rather see a North star than another LS, they been done to death so they are well up there on the boredom scale now. Good luck Calvin, wish you well hoss
I want too build a ford connect transit van into a quarter mile monster using a 3.5 ecoboost. This build alone would get a lot of attention because it's a normal road vehicle lol.
I never knew the starter was like that.
I'm glad there is RUclips.
Because trying to locate the starter would have been no fun back in the day.
Always follow the big power wire.
that airhammer attachment is effing sick!
Telling us the exact amount the bolts loosened in a form that is relatable for most people watching car content is amazing. Thank you for that.
Never knew how fucking beautiful a mother and son building an engine together would be
Would definitely love an update on this build!
When I did my 99 Northstar 14 years ago, I used a threaded insert kit that had course external threads and fine internal for factory head bolts. It worked well. The worse part was that the aluminum seemed more gummy than the other blocks that I have Machined like LS. You had to go slow and back the tap out a few times to clean aluminum out of the tap threads.
This come to be one of my favorite channels. Can't wait to see what kind of power this Northstar will hold or put out! Between the Northstar and the 4200 I'm excited for both of these builds. Keep up the good work and can't wait for the next video.
That Northstar is the best version with the VVT. They addressed the head bolt issue in this version. But, it was a paltry attempt at best. You're better off doing that Northstar Performance bullet proofing system. I used Northstar Performance on a Cadillac XLR-V. It too was supercharged. You're going to make a monster engine.
Another great video. Awesome to see your mom helping out and being part of the project. You spent a lot of time going through that motor and looking forward to seeing it roar to life!
Another great video, thank you for sharing your Northstar journey. You’re like one of the three wisemen
cant wait to see what this thing can do, i hope the northstar will prove itself as a worthwhile platform after you eliminated its most common weaknesses.
Need to show more of the engine parts! I would of like to see the rod and piston design!
We did that a few videos ago.
ruclips.net/video/MRHWBP6QB2E/видео.htmlsi=2tDgkxvdpikxcXT3
I'll have to go watch! Thanks.How much HP will the handle?@@Calvin-Nelson
People complained about the Northstar starter because it wasn't grandpa's old-school small block and it was smoking most other cars ass in a 4500 pound car.. lol
This is really a great idea and project,can’t wait till it’s boosted! Have you seen the LS engine with the LT5 dohc cylinder heads on it? He ran the timing chains off of the LS camshaft,so 3 chains. Pretty cool!
If you mean Ardema Braun I believe they converted the cams to belt drive off of the extended existing cam shaft. Same size cog wheels on all 5 shafts as the shaft in the valley already had the 2:1 reduction. They were lucky in that Lotus used the same borespread and the same bolt pattern as the OHV engines. Normally OHC V type engines have a right and left cylinder head. GM on the DOHC LQ-1 V-6 used the same head on both sides with the right hand side (from the output side) getting an extended cam housing and cams.
Finally someone who takes on my favorite! I hope you gonna make a dual plenum intake manifold with twin tbs!
Currently researching all possible upgrades to my SRX 07 AWD Northstar. Thank you for the video
Thanks for your time used on really nice engine like Barra and the Duramax 4,2. I never thought that I would like to think about The NorthStar engine but now I`m not sure........ Well done sir.... very well done.
It is a blast to a kit-car and even better now then before...... just trilled.
I've always wanted a Northstar since back before the common issues were even known. Then I gave up, because I felt like it would never see the support I felt it deserved. Now I expect it to get a huge amount of support after you show just how capable it is, especially since it already has at least some aftermarket as compared to the other underdog you've been bringing to light. Looking forward to all the support the Atlas will likely get now too, as I really want a 4200 powered GMT360. Was originally going to go 5.3 powered, but you opened my eyes and now I am for sure going 4200. Only problem is that transmission and what to do when it goes out, as I would want to retain the AWD.
I was just mentioning you when I was at the junkyard yesterday when my friend and I saw a NorthStar engine and pondered where you were with that and less than 24 hrs later you've released an update. Keep it up. Things looks great.
Heck yeah bro ... i have always thought these had so so much potential with the overhead cam setup .. glad you are on this ... and man u not kidding , that head stud kit looked so straight forword even a non car guy could do it 😅... peace and love bro keep it rad stay safe and build on and keep having fun bro .. l8z
The air hammer bit should have sponsored you! I bought one half way through this video. I've had too many bolts break on me due to rust or corrosion. I'm looking forward to using it myself.
Great episod, looking forward to see this engine in action.
The tempo and choice of details shown was great, really like to see you work.
Only the 2nd video of yours I have watched, easily one of the most thought through and logical motor heads on all of the youtubes. Appreciate the great content and effort!
Wow, thanks!
Mrs. Nivlac must be a saint!!! God bless you guys and this channel. Can't wait to turbo a 2wd trailblazer sleeper
i am so excited to see what you guys can do with these engines. They deserve more love like this.
That bolt knocker is the star of the show
Most BMW engines have the starters under the intake also.
The Toyota UZ family of quad-cam V8's does, too☺
So do Nissan VK engines.
I love your 66 Ford pick-up and someday would like to get one rangoon red and wimbledon white. My father had one I learned to drive with and fond memories
Thank you! I love it too! It’s mine.
Im a Chrysler guy but I've always liked the Northstar, But Ford has seem to revolutionized DOHC Engines V8 wise Modular Motors, INTECH V8 Engines, that Engine was a Direct Competitor to the Northstar, 4.6 is actually a Good motor too, My Real Statement is could this be a Competitor to the Infamous FORD Coyote Engine since it is a DOHC design, Im waiting too to see what kind of Boost Can the Northstar actually take & live, I've always wondered what kind of power a Northstar can make, This Guy Calvin is really starting to show some of GM's Engines that people never really considered til this guy came along and started bringing these possibilities to life, I definitely wanna see this
First the Atlas Engines now the Northstar this should be good cant wait
👍😁
sleep very well.... thx for sharing.. i used this kit @ my NS and can say: It is not ver precise, but practical. hope it works very well in your project !!
Around 2003 GM switched to coarse threaded head bolts instead of the fine thread bolts. After 2003 we really didn’t have any head gasket issues.
thank you for doing this. i have one of these in my DTS and nobody believes me when i say these have mad potential
also pretty sure they used ls6 head bolts on the north*s made after 05
EXcelent Job ! You're the Saint Patron of the Outcasts, Oddballs, Freaks and Rejects Engine's Church !
Keep doing your own thing ! Anyone can drop an LS in anything nowadays BUT your projects are the real VIP's !
Looking forward to the next episode.😊👍
5:58 my 2001 Deville engine had 166k miles. It only had one loose bolt. I believe it was stripped out at the factory. I rethread that one hole and torque new Felpro bolts to 50 lbs. The engine didn't run hot anymore.
If you’ve ever tried to swap an LS into a small bellhousing transmission then you’ll know why they put the starter there. Personally I think it’s a great compromise. Great content as always, keep it up!
Take a look at ls4 kings 5.3 swap with the n* transmission. Your right it is a hassel
Can’t wait to see how it does
I'm really excited see the progress and updates on this project
I have a fully rebuilt "bulletproofed" Northstar in my 99 Deville. It is so smooth and fast enough with a tuned ECU (300hp and 300+ torqueyboyz). well worth the money i paid my Caddy expert here in SoCal. Thanks CC!!!!
Hey man did you ever have problems with your timing chain cover and oil pan seal? I have a lady friend that got a 97 Seville 62000 miles real beauty but it has some oil and coolant leaks wondering if you had any advice as I'm trying to help a friend and get her running strong 💪🏾
Your awesome. I hope that thing is a coyote killer. I wanted to do one of those 15 years ago after I pulled one apart and seen the potential.
I had a 96, 2001 and a 2006 Cadillac with a northstar. I drove all of them for over 180,000 miles with no problems. I loved them all. I enjoyed the 2006 DTS the best. I really loved my DTS 197,000 miles before I got another vehicle.
That thing is going to rip! what were the ring gaps and what are they now, out of curiosity?
They were like 0.018-0.019 top and 0.025+ bottom. One piston had the bottom ring a little tighter, but most of them I just opened the top up to 0.025. I probably could have gotten away without gapping them.
A left-hand drill bit gets them out EVERY time....piece of cake.
My dealership, back in 2001, kept the main bolts in stock by the hundreds. We did A LOT of lower crankcase reseals. Gravy.
Yep. I've done it hundreds of times on the 4200 head bolts.
So I worked on a SRX not too long ago. Those cam actuator solenoids you need to order yourself some "plugs" for them online. You can also just glue the old ones back in. When you install the 4 actuators you have to use like a .030 dowel you take the little plastic plug out of center and you put the down in where the plug was at before tightening it down.
Hm. I'm not sure I understand what you mean.
I love these engines and seeing you fixing the problems is making me happy :-)
I personally own a Cadillac Eldorado from 96 with just a few miles on it but thinking of switching my turbo charged Volvo B230 engine out for a Northstar in my Super Seven.
Was distracted by the hellcat blower in the background, currently putting one on my 5.7 swapped 03 Durango.
Tips on drilling/tapping aluminum, dish soap is a good lubricant. And I drill with my shop vac sucking up the chips as they come out.
The instructions specifically said to not use any lubricant.
The head bolt issues were supposedly resolved in later models as they switched to a larger bolt with courser threads. There is an aftermarket head stud kit with drill template available to fix the early engines.
Yeah. That's what I used in the video. The first engine I took apart was also a late model engine and the bolts were pretty loose.
@@Calvin-Nelson I saw that after I commented but was too lazy to change it 🥱
You are a very good mechanic. You can tackle problems, and not complain. You just do it. And i know its not easy to have to fix not so good of engineers problems now day's, because they are not very good now day's
I like that you take engines that are rarely used and turn some heads.
I like that tool on the air hammer to help remove the main bolts, who makes it?
BGD Pneumatic bit set 37315 3/8" & 37316 1/2" Bolt Breaker Shake 'n break helps remove seized and frozen bolts and nuts, 32029 Pneumatic Bolt Breaker a.co/d/0h1h9Lx
That air hammer tool is pretty cool I'll have to remember for future problems!
Is the boost coming from the hellcat supercharger on the floor under the shelf??👀👀
Nope. Turbos
@Calvin-Nelson well dang, pretty cool seeing you shining light on another under-appreciated engine. Keep it up.
Good timing. I've been looking at old limos for a project and don't know much about these motors other than to avoid them. Not so worried now.
Bolt Knocker .............. that's about as cool as that Impact Driver for getting screws out. Thanks again 😁
I give you mad props for picking up these factory hot rods just like guys braver then me mess with the mod mod motors coyotes and what not
Wow it's crazy to see your channel blow up like this. I was looking at something on Inliners International the other day and saw someone had mentioned you. Keep up the good work man it's paying off.
@Calvin-Nelson Thanks for posting this video!
I posted in another video but wanted to mention it again - you can get reground cams from Delta Cams. There was even a Cadillac performance shop in Texas that sold the Delta regrounds along with Madtuner mail order style retunes. Sadly, both companies are gone now. Anyway, you can get your cams reground, and Delta has several fantastic options, just make sure to say they are roller cams or they'll refuse to work on Northstar cams.
The stock LH2 intake has a long tube inside with a 90 deg bend that feeds the main plenum. By chopping a slit in the bottom of the intake for access, you can hog out the entire long tube. Make a cap for the rear of the intake and close the bottom of the intake back up with pop-rivets and epoxy. Doing all this will roughly double the intake plenum area, and really help feed air above 5,500 when the stock intake starts being a bottleneck. I also radiused the runner inlets and reduced the injector bosses, it all adds up. My modified intakes handle above 20 psi boost without issue. 😁
Research the LC3 Northstar. The block may be stronger. Also, it has some interesting features like piston squirters and a larger oil pump. If you need to oil a pair of turbos on your LH2, consider using a LC3 oil pump and the the oil filter adapter, which has provisions for an external oil cooler that could conveniently tee out to turbos.
Do consider using the ECU and harness from a 2008+ Cadillac STS, you can tune it with HP Tuners, it's super capable and would be easier than adapting an aftermarket system. Same for using the stock trans ECU.
I have much more to chat about, hit me up.
Yeah. I'm working on regrinds.
Planning to run the intake as is for now, unless someone wants to help out with something.
We already own an LC3 and yes, they have a closed deck.
The stock ECU is a nightmare to tune based on what I have seen. Having to maintain a fuel table for every possible intake and exhaust cam position is a bit painful. It adds up to like 600+ fuel tables that you have to mess with. The plan is to use a LinkEcu on this one.
@@Calvin-Nelson there may be 600+ tables if you're taking each slice from what should be a 3d map! 😆 Look at this short video for a glimpse:
ruclips.net/video/ZzBm7mRhGj8/видео.html
Anyway, the E67 ECU is super common. It's the same that's used with later LH2 and all LC3 engines, along with a crazy number of other GM cars and other manufacturers like Volvo. Tuning resources for the E67 ECU are a plenty.
Talk to Delta about your cams. Last roller cams they did for me were like $150/cam, if I remember. That's cheap and they spec'd out very accurate. Maybe they'd sponsor you!?
Great content .... you are a very engaging presenter as well as a respectable car guy / engine builder !! 👏👏👍👍
Very nice, excited to see this in the fairmont
I clicked on this so hard, I broke my mouse. 😛
Edit to add: The head and main stud kit from Northstar Performance looks nice. I wish there were hotter cams available. I bet a Northstar at 9k RPM would sound amazing!
Hopefully that will be in our future.
YESSS!!! 😎
Texas speed might be able to make one!
The word of this video, “kludgy” 😂 Awesome job!
Very stoked to see the running product, and the numbers it’ll put down. I have a big soft spot for these engines! Very impressive power from their smaller displacement in their time, and honestly, outside of the fastener issues they’re known for, and their admittedly subpar cooling systems they were usually saddled with, everything you need to make big power is there. Good intake geometry, a very stout valvetrain, an extremely solid bottom-end, and high RPM potential, unfortunately hampered by GM bean counters, as is usual. With the N* performance parts, I have very high hopes for the build!
have you thought about doing some copper orings in the block? Isky sells two size tools for it. I started doing it on my 4 bangers and havn't had a HG problem even at 70 PSI.
Yeah. To be honest, we haven't had head gasket sealing issues. When we start having issues, I will start looking for solutions.
Where's the new updates on this! Been a year since a Northstar video
Cal, another handy as pockets on a shirt trip through this work. I have a question; what do you listen to when you build an engine of anything? The lone guitar melody was pretty cool- not distracting and forward leaning all the way through. Saw Mom in the garage keeping you on track! Best to your Dad!
Normally I listen to podcasts. I think I was listening to Lex Fridman at the time.
19:21 😬😬😬. Cover it up, you’re makin me twitch lmao
It's fiiiiiiiiiine! Lol
Definitely gonna use this to help mod my L47 4.0 in the Aurora
HAVE YOU SEEN THE BEN ALAMEDA VIDEO ON TORQUING BOLTS AND BANGING ON THEM WITH A BRASS DRIFT AND A BIG HAMMER THEN RETORQUE THE BOLTS WHAT DO YOU THINK ?
Glad RUclips actually let's me know a new Calvin video is up.
Great work, very interesting
This is a great addition yo the channel!
It was interesting. Being from So Cal. The desert scene pretty big near me. A lot of buggy builders back then were using North Stars because they could get them cheap. I asked one of the builders and he told me the were all warranty replacements. He said all the one's he was getting were broken cranks. It makes me wonder if there was a late version like yours with a girdle. I wonder if it fixes the broken crank issues?
I agree about the starter. I have done starter jobs that were much much harder than a North Star.
I think you will shocked at how powerful this engine will be. When GM designs engines they usually build it to make 50-100% more power than they will be used at then de tune them for the chassis they are destined for. Notice how no fwd car ever eclipsed 300hp because they choked it down for driveability.
Yup not stressed out like coyotes or hemi's
Yote, UZ and VK56 are all great too. Everybody has stinkers/stupid cost cutting nonsense that accounting shoved on engineering.
I will be very curious to see what kind of revs you can get out of the stock bottom end. I love a screaming V8!
Are you continuing the Northstar build? I’m super curious.
Noyce!!! Its about time imagine if they made a tall deck high nickel content iron block like the lsx block for this application the ohv design is definitely superior just needs beefed up and performance parts available it definitely has lots of potential for upgrades if they were available
This is just a 90s LT5 basically
That would be interesting.🙂
Probably end up costing more than a coyote.🙁
@@shadowopsairman1583 there was a 90s LT5 DOHC motor. 5.7 made with help from Yamaha i believe
@@knowbull5hit590 GM owned Lotus and they helped GM design the LT5 that was in the Corvette ZR1 in the early 90s
Thank you! I have a 94 and an 03. I would like to put the 94 STS engine in the back of a CAN AM replica or a 30s truck with the FWD transmission . But figuring out the suspension might be a nightmare
I need to figure out where I need to figure out where to start.