The question regarding saddle bags did not say "feel the aero difference." It said, "feel the difference." Yes, they mentioned that larger bags have an aero difference, but perhaps when the question said that people can feel the difference, it's due to the size AND weight of the bag. 🤷🏽♂
you must have missed Silca's recent video about how to soften their wax for winter riding to prevent the flaking, and then using the strip chip to restore it in the summer.
regarding bike locks, from REI I purchased a kayak lock which is basically two cables and a disc-detainer style key lock which is far more difficult to pick. this is heavier than my previous cable lock which was half the thickness and the lock not pick proof at all. honestly is somebody is looking to go around stealing bikes, they're going to know how to pick the simple locks, and they're going to be having cable cutters to cut the large cables. most opportunists are just walking around and see an unlocked bike, and thus might only have a multi-tool with them at most... so at the least you only really need to carry the smallest diameter cable, long enough to go through both wheels frame and saddle, that you can find that has a disc detainer lock. avoid any lock with code wheels or TSA key, every Master Lock because they can all be shimmed with a piece of trash. this advice is good enough to prevent 99% of opportunist thefts as long as you actually lock it. someone with tools will probably get it anyways no matter how thick your cable is, so make sure you don't take too long to get back to it.
Was wondering if you could do a viedeo on bike covers to store bikes outdoors. Not everyone has a shed garage or garden or are able to store them indoors.
#askgcntech. Recently, I saw several riders on Zwift wearing the new GCN AGU jersey on some pacer bot group rides. How can we unlock it, and does it have to be through one of the weekday GCN club rides?
On subject of high speed vibrations, in early 70's I rode a Viscount [ it was removed from the market] which often experienced these dramatic vibrations. I discovered that putting my knees against the top tube and squeezing changed the effective length of the tube and that changed the frequency of the vibrations which changed the harmonics and this eliminated the wobble.
Regarding speed wobbles, I have heard that squeezing the top tube firmly between your thighs will dampen the vibrations and stop the shimmying in the same way that placing your finger on a vibrating guitar string stops the vibration instantly. While I fortunately have never needed to utilize this trick I have filed it away in my memory for when the day comes.
If leaving your girlfriend is 100% not going to happen, then you must have a friend or aquaintence who is capable of constucting a tall, narrow shed, with quality insulation inside it. Then store the bike upright inside it. That's assuming, of course, that your balcony will accomodate a narrow/tall shed. Plan B, get your girlfriend interested in cycling, to the point that she is hooked. She will then want her own bike, and............is going to have to think about storing it somewhere.🤔
Regarding speed wobbles, I've been lucky enough (to date) to have never experienced one. I'm a 'known' quick descender having hit 112kph (69mph) and frequently hit 60+mph here in the Dales, and hit 80kph (50mph) on most rides. I'd say that one of the causes of a speed wobble is how people hold themselves on the bike, as it tends to only ever be the more nervous (or should I say, less confident) rider that suffers from them. A bike is more likely to pick up a wobble if someone is tense on the bike, holding the bars very tightly and tensing the legs / body - thus causing a fully-tensed system that won't allow for free-movement. This means any 'wobble' the bike picks up will be transferred back into the bike, and as we humans generally can't react in time, it adds to the problem. The solution (obviously a personal opinion) is to become relaxed on the bike and make sure your weight is balanced - preferably with more weight going through the legs, and holding the bars gently.
I always put the bike into the highest gear which makes it much harder for someone to jump on and ride away. Also a reusuable zip tie around the frame and rear wheel will also help. Cheers
About the wheel wobble. I had this experience once, only once. I was riding down a mountain pass in the Banff area which is north of Calgary. I hit 72, 73, 74kms per hour and then suddenly my front wheel started to shake a lot, scaring me I applied my rim brakes slowly to drop my speed and the shaking went away. The road surface was quite smooth and not much wind. I've done speeds of around 60+kms with no problems before. When this happened I thought there was something wrong with my wheels. When I got home I checked the truing of my wheels and both were in really good condition. I also checked my headset which was fine. I ride a Dolan Rebus, I always keep my bike in top condition. To this day I have wondered what caused this. Thanks for addressing this topic. Ollie as you said this is a complex situation, I guess I will never know the true cause, I don't do those speeds anymore, getting too old for that. Why don't we hear about the pros having this problem?
A pros riding position is much further forward to the way most of us ride. This puts more weight over the front wheel which helps prevent the wobble. Many people push their weight back off the saddle on fast descents. This puts the weight on the rear wheel and lightens the weight on the front. You can try this on a safe slope and see the difference.
@@oplkfdhgk from motorcycle world, 3 point to why? low tyre air pressure, Flat spot (worn tyre) lose bearings. All 3 can cause this to happen. Hope that helps.
Re speed wobbles: my life experience of speed wobble is that 90% are caused by extreme tension in the cyclists body and grip. When the speeds get very high some people get very nervous and then grip the bars too hard then their reaction to oscillations/movements of the bike becomes out of sync/delayed. The result is they end up effectively fighting against the movements of the bike rather than smoothing them out and this builds into a wobble. My friends who routinely experience speed wobble are also coincidentally terrified of descending which causes their tension. I know it’s not their bikes because it happens on all of their bikes through their decades of cycling. It’s also happened to me a few times for the same reasons. My solution is avoid gripping the bars too tight. I let my fingers flutter off the bars ie tapping or playing the piano. Also make sure you are flexible in your wrists, elbows and shoulders. Flow with the bike rather than giving the bike a full body locking death grip.
For waterfree bike cleaning I recommend wiping the bike down with a corrosion inhibitor. Spray it onto a rag and then wipe it onto the bike (not your brake rotors!) This will leave a waxy/oily film on the bike. Dirt will now stick to that waxy oily substance instead of your frame. As long as the corrosion inhibitor lasts, cleaning your bike is as easy as wiping it off with a rag or soft brush - the dirt will just fall right off. Also protects against salt. Reapply every 2 to 6 weeks depending on how much you ride. A tiny bit goes a long way, I'm still on my first can for 5 years now!
FWIW that's what people did in the old days, before sealed bearings became commonplace. Spray with WD40 and wipe down with rags. Sometimes LPS3 instead. Hosing off bikes was a really bad idea. You'd have had to repack all your bearings.
@@gregmuon There is a WD40 branded corrosion inhibitor but it's different from regular old WD40 spray which is mostly solvents. Proper corrosion inhibitor won't do that, I use the CRC branded one.
Lots of good responses regarding speed wobble. One more to mention is wheel skewer tension. Make sure it's appropriately tight. Just like some can make a noise that sounds like a creaky bottom bracket if not tight, they can also allow wobble. The one time I actually had speed wobble on my bike, it was me. Had just finished a climb, was sweaty, then descended. It was chilly out, and I didn't realize I was borderline shivering. Concentrated on not doing that and solved the problem.
Really some great science there, speed wobble are just like rogue waves or Tacoma bridge. Happened to me with some vintage Spnynergy wheels, just like Ollie a couple of month ago, also once at 95kph with badly aligned alu rimed wheels, just grabed the frame with my knees. Headset check a must too , 2 thumbs up!
With regard to bike security, you didn’t mention bike alarms. My Garmin edge 1030 has an alarm that you can set, but I also have a Knog alarm which connects with Bluetooth to my phone, providing I am within range to alert me if the bike is moved. The alarm is on both the phone and the bike. It even enables me to track the bike if I don’t catch the thief at it! Just remember to disable the alarm before you move the bike yourself! I would also use a physical lock like the one Connor described.
@Grizzrock Living in Alaska, I have the same issue. On the whole, I don't worry too much about cleaning most of the bike...the chain is the most important part. My solution is a ultra-sonic cleaner for the chain...gets it squeaky clean, and doesn't make a mess. Squirt Brand drip on wax comes in a cold weather formula; a LHBS uses it on their fat bike rentals, suggested it, and it works just fine in actual cold temps (priorly I used Muc-off -50, which also works great).
To add to the response for the last question: the dense moist air in the winter is also going to contribute to possible corrosion of bike components and infrastructure i.e. threads and brackets. So if you can get a tightly woven and thick cover (some motorbike and car covers are good), that should give you the best chance of keeping your bike in good condition over the brisk and horrid winter months. But it's not Canada though is it haha
Definitely consider the overall moisture, harsher dew formation, and slower drying in winter. I would suggest to try to convey the importance and value of your bike (/hobby). I wouldn't say "leave her", but I think it's legitimate to discuss this properly. Bikes can cost several thousands, they deserve proper care. And you deserve to have your say in how space is shared in your home, no?
@@lbx5359 Moist, winter air is brutal on metal components, and most covers won't help with that much. Putting a heat source inside the cover might help a bit, such as old-fashioned (non-LED) light bulb left on constantly. People around here do that inside boats and trailers that they have to store outside.
Comment from a previous show. In the Bike Vault Ollie always comments about leaning the bike against a wall and then recorded a video about cleaning the bike with the handle bar rolling backwards and forwards against the wall. I use a bike stand or lean the seat against a post (clean not damaging)
I had a "speed wobble" that once I was going downhill (not pedaling), and hit +/-30 kph would occur. I first thought it was me (not a great downhill rider), but the fact I only had it when I was going downhill and, around the 30kph marker, AND I wasn't pedaling, I took it to a bike mechanic, finally the issue was completely worn bearings in my wheel.
I always enjoy the answers you guys give - so much to learn! Here my QUESTION: I have been comparing Silca's, SRAM's and other TIRE PRESSURE tools and suggestions. Unfortunately, they all seem to disagree which pressure is the most effective as they are based on different assumptions: some take road surface into considerations but not clincher/tubeless, while others want to know the wheel width but ignore road surface, etc. Can you help? Your expertise is highly appreciated, thank you.
For that balcony solution, maybe invest in a small utility shed that fits on the balcony and store. the bikes there. My bikes are stored in an enclosed balcony year round (live in an apartment in Canada) and works well.
Ollie - check out Silca’s new video about adding their Synerg-E to Super Secret Wax for winter/super cold riding. They say that adding a strip chip will remove the Synerg-E when it’s time to go back to warm weather waxing.
I also had a speed wobble this summer, also going downhill at about 81 kmp (with good circumstances - barely no wind, warm enough etc there are 92+ kmp possible). On that day, the wind was remarkable gusty, which - in my opinion - caused the trouble. As this descend lead into a small villge, I still kept the speed, hoping the slipstream of the houses would end the wobble, which indeed happened. As i still ride an old Giant Cadex CFR with tt bar on, I have the possibility to swap in any aero forks with 1"-steerer, which I did. Changing the Felt fork and putting in a Giant Aero fork with alloy threadless 1" steerer helped. Cleaing the bike during winter: I put on some wax which is used by modelers for vacuforming parts, it can only be removed with nitro thinner (which is bad for clear plastic parts, but great for the bike). By doing so, dirt cannot stick so good on the bike, and it is often sufficient to use a low pressure sprayer used for gardening etc (10 bucks on amazon) only filled with water. In case I do it outside, I spread a little bit salt on the pavement, so the water won't freeze. The waxing shoul be refreshed after 2-3 weeks - I guess it disapperars a little bit when wiping the bike dry. Concerning the guy in the small appartment: if your girlfriend does not like your hobby, it is not worth it, sooner or later there will be troube "Go for a bike ride?! You did so yesterday, is it really necessary?!" I once met the girlfriend of my former bike mate, and we were talking about my and his bikes, and she said "What do you need several bikes for?! You can only ride one at a time!". I made the mistake to reply "And what do you need several pairs of shoes for?! You can only wear one at a time!" She glanced to me, the temperature in the room fell below 0°C, and that was the last time my buddy was allowed to meet me, I never heard of him since. I fear he had to quit cycling...
Hello, please make an episode about real winter cycling. English winter is a warm autumn for me. I cycle throughout the year, of which 5-6 months are winter cycling, when the temperature is -5C to -30C and the snow is 30-100cm.
Using wipes, cloths or sponges for washing, only cleans half of the bike and pushes extra dirt into the nooks an crannies where it is already accumulated. You need a brush to get in there. Use Evaporust against rust. It removes rust without damaging the paint and it protects against new rust for 2-3 weeks, so you have time to protect after cleaning it down to raw steel. There exists totally closed bike- or motorbike bags with an internal coating that coverts the air into a rust inhibiting environment
Regarding Speed Wobbles: I agree with Olly: the whole frame is shaking it makes sense to actually clench the frame between your knees. However, it can also happen if you cramp up because you hit a bump: then it is actually advisable to loosen your grip on the handlebars so that you can dampen the moment more. That happend to me on gravel (about 10% gradient just before a corner (could have gone around it with 40km/h). I had to tell myself to loosen my grip and managed to do so. It prevented me from a serious crash. I also had that happen on a slightly untrue wheel on the Nürburgring Nordschleife in a corner around 60-70km/h. There you simply need a true wheel. Generally I have to say that it is less likely to happen if you feel comfortably on a bike and you don't cramp up. After having lived in a hilly area speeds of 50-60km/h downhill became normal and that definetly improved my control of the bike at higher speeds.
Thanks for another great show. Your answer to the speed wobble question makes me wonder if you could do a deeper dive on the causes and, more importantly, the best possible way to safely stop the bike once it starts to wobble. I had this happen on the Whistler Gran Fondo earlier this year. I was at 70 KMH on a descent when my bike started to shake violently. I managed to stay wheels down but it could have ended very badly. I had a tech check out my bike at the next rest stop and he said it was mechanically sound. I’ve spoken to a number of experienced cyclists who have all given slightly different explanations for the cause. Some say my weight was too far forward on the bike while others have told me my weight was too far back. Some said it’s unsafe to brake once the bike is in full wobble others have said that is the safest way to stop. I’d appreciate more information. Thanks
There are many variables to consider, so it’s difficult to give a specific answer as to why any one ‘wobble’ develops. In my experience, feathering the rear brake at onset can help prevent it get any worse. Before doing any training in the Alps (where it’s most likely to happen on long descents) I would always have the bike serviced and fit new tyres, tubes, disc rotors and pads. All bearings removed, cleaned, lube’d and refitted. An optimised setup seems (touch wood) to have prevented me ever getting a speed wobble after a couple years ago.
Expert bike builder Lennard Zinn wrote an article about this ("shimmy"). Perhaps it can be found on-line. As for my own advice: Get a high quality custom steel frame! I can practically let go of my bars at 80km/hr. Whether I'm descending at 45 km/hr or 80, it will feel exactly the same. I think the reason is in part due to the steel frame, but also the head angle and rake of the fork which makes for longer trail, and a very stable descender. Most carbon race bikes, in contrast, are low trail, very stiff and have light forks, and have quite a nervous front end to make weaving through a bunch easier.
Heres what Connor is thinking during Professor Ollies chemistry Monologe at 3:29 , me Connor, me Smart too, me big, and big good too, me like bikes, me good boy 😂
There's waterless bike cleaner for motorbikes (like Cairbon) and Effetto Mariposa make one for bicycles ("Alpine light"). Just using a wet wipe will surely scratch the bike, not sure the silca wipes avoid that somehow, but proper waterless wash encapsulates the dirt particles.
I’m with the lads on this bike storage issue. To put things right into perspective, my bikes are situated in our bed room, just beyond the end of the bed. My girlfriend loves bikes and never complains if i buy various exotic parts or go abroad riding with my bike pals. I have never had a speed wobble either and i just think its people on ill fitting bikes going too fast for their ability.👍🏼😂😂😂😳
In four decades of riding bikes I only experienced speed wobble on one bike. It was a Merlin Titanium racing bike. Even locking my knees against the top tube didn't help. I thought I was going to die because it was at a very high speed going downhill. I was braking as fast as I could and lucky for me it stopped. There was something wrong with this frame because I got a new frame and used all the components from the Merlin and never had a problem. Sure wheel balance can probably cause some wobbling but I attribute it more to the frame and fork. Some frame geometries aren't good if you don't use the correct size tubing to keep the frame stiff, it's more than likely not the components.
On the SL7, you get speed wobbles if the weight is too far back. Sit upright with no hands on the bars above 50kkph and youll see it. Put more weight on the front, and it will be absolutely fine.
During the winter, I keep a plant sprayer filled with water just inside the door. When I need to wash my bike, I give it a little pressure and go to town. It's not as good as a hose but it's better than nothing.
About the speed wobble on the SL7, i ride on a group that theres 4-5 guys that owns an SL7, and ALL of them reported a speed wobble on fast descents, not all descents but some fast ones. That make me thinking about the bike it self, maybe something on the frame design.. Because some of them ride with 32 rovals alpinist, some with 50mm rovals... and all have feces that wobble.
For popping into shops and peace of mind whilst within range a motion alarm would be a good idea and instead of using a zip style locks through the wheels wrap one around each brake lever and keep the wheels locked by the brakes. Deflate the front tyre and dangle your spare inner tube over the bars or split the bike chain and leave a tool on the floor (not the chain splitter) Draw attention to maintenance issues if no other security option in this situation.
Waterless washing: the bike shop I work in doesn't use water. We spray degreaser on the drivetrain, let it soak, give it a scrub, then spray it off with an air compressor. After that, we use microfiber cloths and muc-off bike cleaner. A few sprays on the towel and you can wipe the bike clean. May take a couple rounds
I want more science and chemistry based questions, because the slow zoom on Ollie when he's in full science education mode is the funniest thing I think I've ever seen on this channel. Keep up the amazing work!
You can just use a damp cloth on your frame - a great way to wash your bike in any climate. This way you avoid soapy water getting anywhere near bearings.
You can protect your bike for outside storage by wrapping it in a blanket and then using a tarp around that to keep the temperature constant and waterproofing.
Ultrasonic cleaners won’t hurt your hands. My hands were in and out briefly 20+times per day to clean them over a 40yr career. It can be a bit uncomfortable if tool long in the cleaner, heat and gas bubbles in the joints but I have no lasting effects. On high speed wobble, I’ve experienced this due to an improperly installed headset that quickly (4rides) became indexed. Also from a mavic freehub which had the wrong lube and set into a death squeal/speed wobble. A couple of times from shivering but brief and easiest to control.
Hiplok is the best! If someone really wants your bike not much will stop them. These are more than enough for the opportunist. To be fair where I live theft is incredibly rare but it makes me feel better if I’m leaving 10k+ of bikes out at the mall.
Taking your wheels off and putting the bike on a trolley whilst in the store is a really solid idea. It’s so easy to steal a bike. I use a Z lock, but only when my bike is in a group of bikes. It’s like the old saying about not needing to be able to outrun the bear - just needing to be able to outrun the other guy; a thief will take the bike that’s easiest to steal. Also, in my area, bike thieves prefer to steal bikes that are saleable, for example steal or aluminum bikes with mechanical groups, or e-Bikes. Electronic components and high end carbon bikes are really hard to sell, and these bikes are generally sold at flea markets.
Put several layers of good quality car wax (or silicone spray, and polish) on a perfectly clean frame. Then, when it gets muddy or needs to be cleaned, just let it dry and brush off the dirt with a paint brush. This is actually ideal if you store your bike indoors and don't have a place to wash your bike. Vacuum up the debris. If you hang your bike on the wall, just put a rubber mat under the bike and it will catch the debris. Washing a bike with water is really not necessary, as only professionals promoting a brand need to have the bike perfectly clean. The chain and drive train can also be wiped with a rag and re-lubricated, which will also keep it clean without washing.
Hi. Great video, as usual. Re. the bike security question, maybe a length of braided cable with loops on each end and a good lock would do the job? I don't bike pack but if weight was an issue, this would be my solution.
Straight gauge vs double butted spokes. I’m a heavy 1.95m tall, 91kg rider who likes to give it the beans up climbs out of the saddle. This year, unusually for me, I have broken 3 spokes, 3 different wheels, all non drive side, all rear, all double butted, 2 on normal dished derailleur wheels, 1 on my non-dished single speed. All broke at the bottom of climb when I got out of the saddle to climb. All have broken about 2 inches from the bend. I have another single speed with straight gauge spokes that has more mileage than the other wheels and has yet to fail. My question- where the spoke changes it gauge from thick to thinner butting - is this a potential weak point “stress raiser”. Cheers steve.
I often get tubeless sealant blocking my valves when trying to pump up my tyres. Normally a quick hard push on the pump clears it but is there a correct way to deal with this? And what do I do if the quick hard push doesn't sort it?
Conor may be more likely to get high speed wobble due to weight and frame size. My 60 cm 531 Mondia had low flange wheels and was very comfy on rough roads, but had a wicked wobble above 35 mph. Larger frames lose some stiffness as the triangle tends to parallelogram shape.
I had exceeded 70-75km/h with my old full steel MTB. No wobbles. Had them 2 times with aluminium road bike+carbon fork. Might be related to different materials, and maybe weight distribution
I suffered speed wobble going downhill behind a truck (at a safe distance). I don’t know if the truck caused some resonance or if it was due to the turbulences also caused by the truck, but it made me think of selling my bike and getting a new one😅
When someonesays the can feel the difference between having a small saddle bag and not having one. What have they got in their saddle bag? A 3kg block of titanium?
#askgcntech Help please. I recently upgraded my rotors (standard sram centreline 160mm to some nice hope ones also 160mm). I also bought some new pads. After a long while, I managed to align the front pad and rotor perfectly, however the rear rotor and pad is proving challenging. I know its the pad as I put the old pad in and the rotor aligns perfectly. Is it a case of the rubbing will go away with the new pad after bedding in? I've literally spent a whole day trying to align the new pad to no avail ( I've got the pad spacer too). Nothing wrong with the pistons and the rotor isnt bent
please check how (un)evenly the old pads are worn. May be an indicator of skewed brake mounts on the frame. Or if they are fine, you could have simply bled the brakes with too narrow bleed block, resulting in too much fluid and too little gap.
#askgcntech I’m considering getting a new do-it-all bike but I find it a bit hard to sort out a proper one… I would like it to be a aluminium frame and most important, without all those ugly mountings bolts scattered around the bike!!! I would find it fine if it could fit up to a 38mm tyre and still keep under 8,5 kg… I’ve been looking at the TREK Domane, but it has those bolts on the top tube 😒 and the TREK Crockett is getting a bit expensive…. Do you have any suggestions???
#askgcntech I’ve switched to wax chain lube (Silca drip). After a few applications, I was the bike but find residual wax on jockey wheels, chainring teeth, cassette which transfer from the chain are sticky and hard to clean even with warm water and light scrub. Any tips or simply leave it alone - there’s no grit or dirt.
I have a 11speed Canyon Grail gen1 GRX di2, and i'm getting a 12spd Ultegra di2 Aeroad. Is there any way i can use the Aeroad with a 11spd cassette on my Wahoo Kickr, or the Grail with the 12spd DT Swiss wheels that come with the Aeroad? Or do i have to switch out the cassettes every time? #askgcntech
#askgcntech What is the best detergent to use for cycling kit? My washing machine has a setting for “Activerwear” and it assumes I’m using a gentle detergent. Is there a cycling kit specific detergent you recommend? Thank you in advance!
What is your experience with perelli cinturato compared with gp5000 or p zero? I did ride cinturato over the summer, and I dont think i feel a difference, but i can see in My data That i do more power on Them to keep up with the pace i expect from myself. How much slower Are they?
Storing your bike outside in winter in the UK is a definite no, even if covered. It's too damp. I ruined every single bearing on my MTB doing this a few years back, completely destroyed by rust in 5 months. If you can keep it completely dry and guarantee good airflow you might get away with it, but I'd never risk it again in the UK.
#askgcntech Hi you guys, I have always kept my bike indoors but will need to store it in a shed. The shed is well built and seems quite water tight but I am worried about damp rusting parts and also heat drying out lubricant and sealant. Is there any bags or storage devices I can put the bike in within the shed that doesn't need me to dismantle/reassemble the bike (ie taking off the handle bars, lower the seat hight) each time I want to store it or use it. thanks!!
Got a question? We’ve got the answers! 👉 #askgcntech
The question regarding saddle bags did not say "feel the aero difference." It said, "feel the difference." Yes, they mentioned that larger bags have an aero difference, but perhaps when the question said that people can feel the difference, it's due to the size AND weight of the bag. 🤷🏽♂
you must have missed Silca's recent video about how to soften their wax for winter riding to prevent the flaking, and then using the strip chip to restore it in the summer.
regarding bike locks, from REI I purchased a kayak lock which is basically two cables and a disc-detainer style key lock which is far more difficult to pick. this is heavier than my previous cable lock which was half the thickness and the lock not pick proof at all.
honestly is somebody is looking to go around stealing bikes, they're going to know how to pick the simple locks, and they're going to be having cable cutters to cut the large cables. most opportunists are just walking around and see an unlocked bike, and thus might only have a multi-tool with them at most... so at the least you only really need to carry the smallest diameter cable, long enough to go through both wheels frame and saddle, that you can find that has a disc detainer lock. avoid any lock with code wheels or TSA key, every Master Lock because they can all be shimmed with a piece of trash. this advice is good enough to prevent 99% of opportunist thefts as long as you actually lock it. someone with tools will probably get it anyways no matter how thick your cable is, so make sure you don't take too long to get back to it.
Was wondering if you could do a viedeo on bike covers to store bikes outdoors. Not everyone has a shed garage or garden or are able to store them indoors.
#askgcntech. Recently, I saw several riders on Zwift wearing the new GCN AGU jersey on some pacer bot group rides. How can we unlock it, and does it have to be through one of the weekday GCN club rides?
"Leave her" has got to be the most concise answer to a problem ever.
You can actually see Ollie's expression thinking of a better answer than just agreeing to Connor's solutions 😆
The slow zooms into Ollie while he overexplains each topic was amazing. Well done editor.
😂😂😂
The speed wobble one was full on verbal diarrhea, and I feel dumber from listening through.
Very much enjoyed the slow zoom whilst Ollie's going in on ultrasonic cleaning
And then about speed wobbles hahaha.
loved the slow zoom science explanations.
me too, I started to get a little uncomfortable though, I wondered when they were going to stop. lol
what's even funnier is Conor getting slowly out of the frame... "we don't need him right now" 😂
@@davidtomasetti8520 They will stop when the explanation is over 😁
More freeze-pump-thaw explanations please
@@gcntech It just shows how easy you can fall down to the rabbit hole while trying to simplify not simple things. :)
On subject of high speed vibrations, in early 70's I rode a Viscount [ it was removed from the market] which often experienced these dramatic vibrations. I discovered that putting my knees against the top tube and squeezing changed the effective length of the tube and that changed the frequency of the vibrations which changed the harmonics and this eliminated the wobble.
Regarding speed wobbles, I have heard that squeezing the top tube firmly between your thighs will dampen the vibrations and stop the shimmying in the same way that placing your finger on a vibrating guitar string stops the vibration instantly. While I fortunately have never needed to utilize this trick I have filed it away in my memory for when the day comes.
I did this within the last month, and it seemed to work..
16:12 exactly, leave the girlfirend outside
Humans don’t get rust 🤣
Thanks fellas 🤣
Ollie looked like he was holding back that exact advice the whole rest of the segment.
If leaving your girlfriend is 100% not going to happen, then you must have a friend or aquaintence who is capable of constucting a tall, narrow shed, with quality insulation inside it. Then store the bike upright inside it. That's assuming, of course, that your balcony will accomodate a narrow/tall shed. Plan B, get your girlfriend interested in cycling, to the point that she is hooked. She will then want her own bike, and............is going to have to think about storing it somewhere.🤔
@peterthomas8053 leaving the girlfriend outside is easier and cheaper
Great video! I'm clipping the audio of Ollie's sonicification rant to play whenever I"m having trouble getting to sleep.
I really like when tech clinic is a longer video. More questions and answers!
Regarding speed wobbles, I've been lucky enough (to date) to have never experienced one. I'm a 'known' quick descender having hit 112kph (69mph) and frequently hit 60+mph here in the Dales, and hit 80kph (50mph) on most rides. I'd say that one of the causes of a speed wobble is how people hold themselves on the bike, as it tends to only ever be the more nervous (or should I say, less confident) rider that suffers from them. A bike is more likely to pick up a wobble if someone is tense on the bike, holding the bars very tightly and tensing the legs / body - thus causing a fully-tensed system that won't allow for free-movement. This means any 'wobble' the bike picks up will be transferred back into the bike, and as we humans generally can't react in time, it adds to the problem. The solution (obviously a personal opinion) is to become relaxed on the bike and make sure your weight is balanced - preferably with more weight going through the legs, and holding the bars gently.
The slow zoom in was a perfect comedic elemnt. Great explanations Ollie! As always.
The image quality and sound are much improved. Kudos to the production crew.
7:19 GCN Science show with Ollie. Kudos to the editor ;)
I use a damp microfibre for the frame and an old towel for the chain but I also have ridewrap on
I always put the bike into the highest gear which makes it much harder for someone to jump on and ride away. Also a reusuable zip tie around the frame and rear wheel will also help. Cheers
I love seeing shows with smart people on them, great explanations.
Appreciate your expertise, Ollie, Thx.
About the wheel wobble. I had this experience once, only once. I was riding down a mountain pass in the Banff area which is north of Calgary. I hit 72, 73, 74kms per hour and then suddenly my front wheel started to shake a lot, scaring me I applied my rim brakes slowly to drop my speed and the shaking went away. The road surface was quite smooth and not much wind. I've done speeds of around 60+kms with no problems before. When this happened I thought there was something wrong with my wheels. When I got home I checked the truing of my wheels and both were in really good condition. I also checked my headset which was fine. I ride a Dolan Rebus, I always keep my bike in top condition. To this day I have wondered what caused this. Thanks for addressing this topic. Ollie as you said this is a complex situation, I guess I will never know the true cause, I don't do those speeds anymore, getting too old for that. Why don't we hear about the pros having this problem?
A pros riding position is much further forward to the way most of us ride. This puts more weight over the front wheel which helps prevent the wobble. Many people push their weight back off the saddle on fast descents. This puts the weight on the rear wheel and lightens the weight on the front. You can try this on a safe slope and see the difference.
It could also be that you are too tense causing your arms to fatigue, hence the shaking sensation
Apparently alot of motorcycle speed wobble is caused by wrong tire pressure so i think that probably also is true for bicycle.
@@oplkfdhgk from motorcycle world, 3 point to why? low tyre air pressure, Flat spot (worn tyre) lose bearings. All 3 can cause this to happen. Hope that helps.
Thanks
thank you!
Re speed wobbles: my life experience of speed wobble is that 90% are caused by extreme tension in the cyclists body and grip. When the speeds get very high some people get very nervous and then grip the bars too hard then their reaction to oscillations/movements of the bike becomes out of sync/delayed. The result is they end up effectively fighting against the movements of the bike rather than smoothing them out and this builds into a wobble. My friends who routinely experience speed wobble are also coincidentally terrified of descending which causes their tension. I know it’s not their bikes because it happens on all of their bikes through their decades of cycling. It’s also happened to me a few times for the same reasons. My solution is avoid gripping the bars too tight. I let my fingers flutter off the bars ie tapping or playing the piano. Also make sure you are flexible in your wrists, elbows and shoulders. Flow with the bike rather than giving the bike a full body locking death grip.
For waterfree bike cleaning I recommend wiping the bike down with a corrosion inhibitor. Spray it onto a rag and then wipe it onto the bike (not your brake rotors!) This will leave a waxy/oily film on the bike. Dirt will now stick to that waxy oily substance instead of your frame. As long as the corrosion inhibitor lasts, cleaning your bike is as easy as wiping it off with a rag or soft brush - the dirt will just fall right off. Also protects against salt. Reapply every 2 to 6 weeks depending on how much you ride. A tiny bit goes a long way, I'm still on my first can for 5 years now!
FWIW that's what people did in the old days, before sealed bearings became commonplace. Spray with WD40 and wipe down with rags. Sometimes LPS3 instead. Hosing off bikes was a really bad idea. You'd have had to repack all your bearings.
@@gregmuon There is a WD40 branded corrosion inhibitor but it's different from regular old WD40 spray which is mostly solvents. Proper corrosion inhibitor won't do that, I use the CRC branded one.
Silicone spray is ideal for this (e.g. Jig-a-Loo). It makes the dirt slide off.
The problem is the girlfriend. Just get a new girlfriend who will tolerate a bike. Problem solved.
Be single:
You save money, lose weight and become more aero, have more time to train.
For quick stops I use a small luggage lock that I loop through the chain and a rear spoke. 🔒
Lots of good responses regarding speed wobble. One more to mention is wheel skewer tension. Make sure it's appropriately tight. Just like some can make a noise that sounds like a creaky bottom bracket if not tight, they can also allow wobble. The one time I actually had speed wobble on my bike, it was me. Had just finished a climb, was sweaty, then descended. It was chilly out, and I didn't realize I was borderline shivering. Concentrated on not doing that and solved the problem.
Really some great science there, speed wobble are just like rogue waves or Tacoma bridge. Happened to me with some vintage Spnynergy wheels, just like Ollie a couple of month ago, also once at 95kph with badly aligned alu rimed wheels, just grabed the frame with my knees.
Headset check a must too , 2 thumbs up!
I love Ollie's explanation of oxygen dissolved in liquids. As a chemist who works in moisture and oxygen free environments, I could really relate.
With regard to bike security, you didn’t mention bike alarms. My Garmin edge 1030 has an alarm that you can set, but I also have a Knog alarm which connects with Bluetooth to my phone, providing I am within range to alert me if the bike is moved. The alarm is on both the phone and the bike.
It even enables me to track the bike if I don’t catch the thief at it! Just remember to disable the alarm before you move the bike yourself! I would also use a physical lock like the one Connor described.
@Grizzrock
Living in Alaska, I have the same issue. On the whole, I don't worry too much about cleaning most of the bike...the chain is the most important part. My solution is a ultra-sonic cleaner for the chain...gets it squeaky clean, and doesn't make a mess.
Squirt Brand drip on wax comes in a cold weather formula; a LHBS uses it on their fat bike rentals, suggested it, and it works just fine in actual cold temps (priorly I used Muc-off -50, which also works great).
To add to the response for the last question: the dense moist air in the winter is also going to contribute to possible corrosion of bike components and infrastructure i.e. threads and brackets. So if you can get a tightly woven and thick cover (some motorbike and car covers are good), that should give you the best chance of keeping your bike in good condition over the brisk and horrid winter months. But it's not Canada though is it haha
Definitely consider the overall moisture, harsher dew formation, and slower drying in winter.
I would suggest to try to convey the importance and value of your bike (/hobby). I wouldn't say "leave her", but I think it's legitimate to discuss this properly. Bikes can cost several thousands, they deserve proper care. And you deserve to have your say in how space is shared in your home, no?
@@lbx5359 Moist, winter air is brutal on metal components, and most covers won't help with that much. Putting a heat source inside the cover might help a bit, such as old-fashioned (non-LED) light bulb left on constantly. People around here do that inside boats and trailers that they have to store outside.
When i tested my 11L ortlieb saddlebag with a Ghibli aero sensor, it was 8W faster than no bag, at 40kph.
Great explanation from Ollie and advice
Hi guys, thanks for answering my question!
Love the fact that one of my comments made it into a video! 😀
Comment from a previous show. In the Bike Vault Ollie always comments about leaning the bike against a wall and then recorded a video about cleaning the bike with the handle bar rolling backwards and forwards against the wall.
I use a bike stand or lean the seat against a post (clean not damaging)
Wet wipes bike cleaning - Monk would be proud ❤
I had a "speed wobble" that once I was going downhill (not pedaling), and hit +/-30 kph would occur. I first thought it was me (not a great downhill rider), but the fact I only had it when I was going downhill and, around the 30kph marker, AND I wasn't pedaling, I took it to a bike mechanic, finally the issue was completely worn bearings in my wheel.
I always enjoy the answers you guys give - so much to learn!
Here my QUESTION: I have been comparing Silca's, SRAM's and other TIRE PRESSURE tools and suggestions. Unfortunately, they all seem to disagree which pressure is the most effective as they are based on different assumptions: some take road surface into considerations but not clincher/tubeless, while others want to know the wheel width but ignore road surface, etc. Can you help? Your expertise is highly appreciated, thank you.
For that balcony solution, maybe invest in a small utility shed that fits on the balcony and store. the bikes there. My bikes are stored in an enclosed balcony year round (live in an apartment in Canada) and works well.
Ollie - check out Silca’s new video about adding their Synerg-E to Super Secret Wax for winter/super cold riding.
They say that adding a strip chip will remove the Synerg-E when it’s time to go back to warm weather waxing.
I also had a speed wobble this summer, also going downhill at about 81 kmp (with good circumstances - barely no wind, warm enough etc there are 92+ kmp possible). On that day, the wind was remarkable gusty, which - in my opinion - caused the trouble. As this descend lead into a small villge, I still kept the speed, hoping the slipstream of the houses would end the wobble, which indeed happened. As i still ride an old Giant Cadex CFR with tt bar on, I have the possibility to swap in any aero forks with 1"-steerer, which I did. Changing the Felt fork and putting in a Giant Aero fork with alloy threadless 1" steerer helped.
Cleaing the bike during winter: I put on some wax which is used by modelers for vacuforming parts, it can only be removed with nitro thinner (which is bad for clear plastic parts, but great for the bike). By doing so, dirt cannot stick so good on the bike, and it is often sufficient to use a low pressure sprayer used for gardening etc (10 bucks on amazon) only filled with water. In case I do it outside, I spread a little bit salt on the pavement, so the water won't freeze. The waxing shoul be refreshed after 2-3 weeks - I guess it disapperars a little bit when wiping the bike dry.
Concerning the guy in the small appartment: if your girlfriend does not like your hobby, it is not worth it, sooner or later there will be troube "Go for a bike ride?! You did so yesterday, is it really necessary?!" I once met the girlfriend of my former bike mate, and we were talking about my and his bikes, and she said "What do you need several bikes for?! You can only ride one at a time!". I made the mistake to reply "And what do you need several pairs of shoes for?! You can only wear one at a time!" She glanced to me, the temperature in the room fell below 0°C, and that was the last time my buddy was allowed to meet me, I never heard of him since. I fear he had to quit cycling...
Slow zooms were great 😂
Keeps video editor and viewers engaged and entertained 😅
I use a very lightweight lock along with a motion sensing alarm..and never leave the bike for more than a few minutes...works pretty well
Hello, please make an episode about real winter cycling. English winter is a warm autumn for me. I cycle throughout the year, of which 5-6 months are winter cycling, when the temperature is -5C to -30C and the snow is 30-100cm.
Dr. Bridgewood, I promise to be on time to lecture next week, I promise 😂 great episode, good information
I am doing it for two years no problem but it takes a lot of patience.
Using wipes, cloths or sponges for washing, only cleans half of the bike and pushes extra dirt into the nooks an crannies where it is already accumulated. You need a brush to get in there.
Use Evaporust against rust. It removes rust without damaging the paint and it protects against new rust for 2-3 weeks, so you have time to protect after cleaning it down to raw steel.
There exists totally closed bike- or motorbike bags with an internal coating that coverts the air into a rust inhibiting environment
Oh boy, we really got schooled in physics and chemistry by dr. Bridgewood in this episode 🤓
Ollie's reaction to Connor's defense of bikes on the balcony.....priceless
Regarding Speed Wobbles: I agree with Olly: the whole frame is shaking it makes sense to actually clench the frame between your knees. However, it can also happen if you cramp up because you hit a bump: then it is actually advisable to loosen your grip on the handlebars so that you can dampen the moment more. That happend to me on gravel (about 10% gradient just before a corner (could have gone around it with 40km/h). I had to tell myself to loosen my grip and managed to do so. It prevented me from a serious crash.
I also had that happen on a slightly untrue wheel on the Nürburgring Nordschleife in a corner around 60-70km/h. There you simply need a true wheel.
Generally I have to say that it is less likely to happen if you feel comfortably on a bike and you don't cramp up. After having lived in a hilly area speeds of 50-60km/h downhill became normal and that definetly improved my control of the bike at higher speeds.
Thanks for another great show. Your answer to the speed wobble question makes me wonder if you could do a deeper dive on the causes and, more importantly, the best possible way to safely stop the bike once it starts to wobble. I had this happen on the Whistler Gran Fondo earlier this year. I was at 70 KMH on a descent when my bike started to shake violently. I managed to stay wheels down but it could have ended very badly. I had a tech check out my bike at the next rest stop and he said it was mechanically sound. I’ve spoken to a number of experienced cyclists who have all given slightly different explanations for the cause. Some say my weight was too far forward on the bike while others have told me my weight was too far back. Some said it’s unsafe to brake once the bike is in full wobble others have said that is the safest way to stop. I’d appreciate more information. Thanks
There are many variables to consider, so it’s difficult to give a specific answer as to why any one ‘wobble’ develops. In my experience, feathering the rear brake at onset can help prevent it get any worse. Before doing any training in the Alps (where it’s most likely to happen on long descents) I would always have the bike serviced and fit new tyres, tubes, disc rotors and pads. All bearings removed, cleaned, lube’d and refitted. An optimised setup seems (touch wood) to have prevented me ever getting a speed wobble after a couple years ago.
Expert bike builder Lennard Zinn wrote an article about this ("shimmy"). Perhaps it can be found on-line. As for my own advice: Get a high quality custom steel frame! I can practically let go of my bars at 80km/hr. Whether I'm descending at 45 km/hr or 80, it will feel exactly the same. I think the reason is in part due to the steel frame, but also the head angle and rake of the fork which makes for longer trail, and a very stable descender. Most carbon race bikes, in contrast, are low trail, very stiff and have light forks, and have quite a nervous front end to make weaving through a bunch easier.
Heres what Connor is thinking during Professor Ollies chemistry Monologe at 3:29 , me Connor, me Smart too, me big, and big good too, me like bikes, me good boy 😂
Thanks heaps guys for answering my question at the start about winter bike washing without water. I'll seek out those Silca gear wipes! 👍🏼🧽
I mix some vegetable oil in to the wax in the winter. Makes it less brittle.
There's waterless bike cleaner for motorbikes (like Cairbon) and Effetto Mariposa make one for bicycles ("Alpine light"). Just using a wet wipe will surely scratch the bike, not sure the silca wipes avoid that somehow, but proper waterless wash encapsulates the dirt particles.
I’m with the lads on this bike storage issue. To put things right into perspective, my bikes are situated in our bed room, just beyond the end of the bed. My girlfriend loves bikes and never complains if i buy various exotic parts or go abroad riding with my bike pals. I have never had a speed wobble either and i just think its people on ill fitting bikes going too fast for their ability.👍🏼😂😂😂😳
This episode feels like a chemistry and physics lesson 😌
In four decades of riding bikes I only experienced speed wobble on one bike. It was a Merlin Titanium racing bike. Even locking my knees against the top tube didn't help. I thought I was going to die because it was at a very high speed going downhill. I was braking as fast as I could and lucky for me it stopped. There was something wrong with this frame because I got a new frame and used all the components from the Merlin and never had a problem. Sure wheel balance can probably cause some wobbling but I attribute it more to the frame and fork. Some frame geometries aren't good if you don't use the correct size tubing to keep the frame stiff, it's more than likely not the components.
On the SL7, you get speed wobbles if the weight is too far back. Sit upright with no hands on the bars above 50kkph and youll see it. Put more weight on the front, and it will be absolutely fine.
Thanks for the video
During the winter, I keep a plant sprayer filled with water just inside the door. When I need to wash my bike, I give it a little pressure and go to town. It's not as good as a hose but it's better than nothing.
About the speed wobble on the SL7, i ride on a group that theres 4-5 guys that owns an SL7, and ALL of them reported a speed wobble on fast descents, not all descents but some fast ones.
That make me thinking about the bike it self, maybe something on the frame design.. Because some of them ride with 32 rovals alpinist, some with 50mm rovals... and all have feces that wobble.
For popping into shops and peace of mind whilst within range a motion alarm would be a good idea and instead of using a zip style locks through the wheels wrap one around each brake lever and keep the wheels locked by the brakes. Deflate the front tyre and dangle your spare inner tube over the bars or split the bike chain and leave a tool on the floor (not the chain splitter) Draw attention to maintenance issues if no other security option in this situation.
New drinking game - every slow zoom on Ollie explaining physics... drink!
Waterless washing: the bike shop I work in doesn't use water. We spray degreaser on the drivetrain, let it soak, give it a scrub, then spray it off with an air compressor. After that, we use microfiber cloths and muc-off bike cleaner. A few sprays on the towel and you can wipe the bike clean. May take a couple rounds
Ollie got it spot on LEAVE HERRR
I want more science and chemistry based questions, because the slow zoom on Ollie when he's in full science education mode is the funniest thing I think I've ever seen on this channel. Keep up the amazing work!
Hi dr O, i know it’s not really cold in AZ where i live but I have taken my bike into the kitchen and cleaned my bike over the kitchen sink.
You can just use a damp cloth on your frame - a great way to wash your bike in any climate. This way you avoid soapy water getting anywhere near bearings.
You can protect your bike for outside storage by wrapping it in a blanket and then using a tarp around that to keep the temperature constant and waterproofing.
Ultrasonic cleaners won’t hurt your hands. My hands were in and out briefly 20+times per day to clean them over a 40yr career. It can be a bit uncomfortable if tool long in the cleaner, heat and gas bubbles in the joints but I have no lasting effects.
On high speed wobble, I’ve experienced this due to an improperly installed headset that quickly (4rides) became indexed. Also from a mavic freehub which had the wrong lube and set into a death squeal/speed wobble. A couple of times from shivering but brief and easiest to control.
3:27 the moment Conor loses the will to live. The eyes, the blinking, the fingers, he's given up.
He knew what was waiting for him when he stepped onto the set.
9:11 Damped headset bearings from companies like FSA and Cane Creek can help with speed level
Have had far too many speed wobbles- scary, not so many since I switched and adjusted my rim brake pads.. and put on 28’s
Hiplok is the best! If someone really wants your bike not much will stop them. These are more than enough for the opportunist. To be fair where I live theft is incredibly rare but it makes me feel better if I’m leaving 10k+ of bikes out at the mall.
Can you put a link for the Gear Wipes?
Taking your wheels off and putting the bike on a trolley whilst in the store is a really solid idea. It’s so easy to steal a bike. I use a Z lock, but only when my bike is in a group of bikes. It’s like the old saying about not needing to be able to outrun the bear - just needing to be able to outrun the other guy; a thief will take the bike that’s easiest to steal. Also, in my area, bike thieves prefer to steal bikes that are saleable, for example steal or aluminum bikes with mechanical groups, or e-Bikes. Electronic components and high end carbon bikes are really hard to sell, and these bikes are generally sold at flea markets.
askgcnrech Hi. Re preventing rust. What about using a sacrificial metal ? Or maybe using an old phone adapter to provide a flow of electrons?
Put several layers of good quality car wax (or silicone spray, and polish) on a perfectly clean frame. Then, when it gets muddy or needs to be cleaned, just let it dry and brush off the dirt with a paint brush. This is actually ideal if you store your bike indoors and don't have a place to wash your bike. Vacuum up the debris. If you hang your bike on the wall, just put a rubber mat under the bike and it will catch the debris. Washing a bike with water is really not necessary, as only professionals promoting a brand need to have the bike perfectly clean. The chain and drive train can also be wiped with a rag and re-lubricated, which will also keep it clean without washing.
You can get an alarm for your bike that will go off if its moved, its a good combination with a cafe lock.
Hi. Great video, as usual. Re. the bike security question, maybe a length of braided cable with loops on each end and a good lock would do the job? I don't bike pack but if weight was an issue, this would be my solution.
Can you use the gear wipes instead of a conventional degreaser?
Theres an oil addative you can add to youre wax for just those cold situations!
Straight gauge vs double butted spokes. I’m a heavy 1.95m tall, 91kg rider who likes to give it the beans up climbs out of the saddle. This year, unusually for me, I have broken 3 spokes, 3 different wheels, all non drive side, all rear, all double butted, 2 on normal dished derailleur wheels, 1 on my non-dished single speed. All broke at the bottom of climb when I got out of the saddle to climb. All have broken about 2 inches from the bend. I have another single speed with straight gauge spokes that has more mileage than the other wheels and has yet to fail. My question- where the spoke changes it gauge from thick to thinner butting - is this a potential weak point “stress raiser”. Cheers steve.
I often get tubeless sealant blocking my valves when trying to pump up my tyres. Normally a quick hard push on the pump clears it but is there a correct way to deal with this? And what do I do if the quick hard push doesn't sort it?
Conor may be more likely to get high speed wobble due to weight and frame size. My 60 cm 531 Mondia had low flange wheels and was very comfy on rough roads, but had a wicked wobble above 35 mph. Larger frames lose some stiffness as the triangle tends to parallelogram shape.
I had exceeded 70-75km/h with my old full steel MTB. No wobbles. Had them 2 times with aluminium road bike+carbon fork. Might be related to different materials, and maybe weight distribution
Leave her 😂 Love the advice!
I suffered speed wobble going downhill behind a truck (at a safe distance). I don’t know if the truck caused some resonance or if it was due to the turbulences also caused by the truck, but it made me think of selling my bike and getting a new one😅
When someonesays the can feel the difference between having a small saddle bag and not having one. What have they got in their saddle bag? A 3kg block of titanium?
#askgcntech Help please. I recently upgraded my rotors (standard sram centreline 160mm to some nice hope ones also 160mm). I also bought some new pads. After a long while, I managed to align the front pad and rotor perfectly, however the rear rotor and pad is proving challenging. I know its the pad as I put the old pad in and the rotor aligns perfectly. Is it a case of the rubbing will go away with the new pad after bedding in? I've literally spent a whole day trying to align the new pad to no avail ( I've got the pad spacer too). Nothing wrong with the pistons and the rotor isnt bent
please check how (un)evenly the old pads are worn. May be an indicator of skewed brake mounts on the frame. Or if they are fine, you could have simply bled the brakes with too narrow bleed block, resulting in too much fluid and too little gap.
#askgcntech I’m considering getting a new do-it-all bike but I find it a bit hard to sort out a proper one… I would like it to be a aluminium frame and most important, without all those ugly mountings bolts scattered around the bike!!! I would find it fine if it could fit up to a 38mm tyre and still keep under 8,5 kg… I’ve been looking at the TREK Domane, but it has those bolts on the top tube 😒 and the TREK Crockett is getting a bit expensive….
Do you have any suggestions???
#askgcntech I’ve switched to wax chain lube (Silca drip). After a few applications, I was the bike but find residual wax on jockey wheels, chainring teeth, cassette which transfer from the chain are sticky and hard to clean even with warm water and light scrub. Any tips or simply leave it alone - there’s no grit or dirt.
For stopping at the shops…I ask the store if I can bring the bike inside. Typically if the store is small and you are buying something they let you.
I have a 11speed Canyon Grail gen1 GRX di2, and i'm getting a 12spd Ultegra di2 Aeroad. Is there any way i can use the Aeroad with a 11spd cassette on my Wahoo Kickr, or the Grail with the 12spd DT Swiss wheels that come with the Aeroad? Or do i have to switch out the cassettes every time? #askgcntech
#askgcntech What is the best detergent to use for cycling kit? My washing machine has a setting for “Activerwear” and it assumes I’m using a gentle detergent. Is there a cycling kit specific detergent you recommend? Thank you in advance!
Slowest zoom ever! Ollie was nerding out and he forgot to push up his imaginary nerd glasses. I want a do-over!!
What is your experience with perelli cinturato compared with gp5000 or p zero? I did ride cinturato over the summer, and I dont think i feel a difference, but i can see in My data That i do more power on Them to keep up with the pace i expect from myself. How much slower Are they?
Storing your bike outside in winter in the UK is a definite no, even if covered. It's too damp. I ruined every single bearing on my MTB doing this a few years back, completely destroyed by rust in 5 months.
If you can keep it completely dry and guarantee good airflow you might get away with it, but I'd never risk it again in the UK.
#askgcntech Is it possible to use the ZWIFT Cog & Click on a Tacx Flux S, or is it only compatible with Wahoo?
#askgcntech Hi you guys, I have always kept my bike indoors but will need to store it in a shed. The shed is well built and seems quite water tight but I am worried about damp rusting parts and also heat drying out lubricant and sealant. Is there any bags or storage devices I can put the bike in within the shed that doesn't need me to dismantle/reassemble the bike (ie taking off the handle bars, lower the seat hight) each time I want to store it or use it. thanks!!