Machine disassembly: My top 10 tips | Auto Expert John Cadogan
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- Опубликовано: 11 окт 2024
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A box of assorted fuses can be very handy as well.
Also,
Don't underestimate looking it up on RUclips to see if there's a video on it. I had to replace a bearing on my front loading washing machine recently, so I typed the model number in the search bar along with "replace bearing" and found a great video showing how to do it. They even had the right bearing size so I could get it before doing the job. It took a couple of hours, but a replacement washing machine was about a thousand dollars, so well worth it.
I repaired my Breezeair aircon fan motor with help from youtube. Small corroded wire on the motor made it think it was over heating. Repaired that, saved over $1000 and still goin 4 years later!
Totally onboard with you about the value of RUclips tutorials. I'm no mug when it comes to workshop skills, but I've had a few setbacks which make it virtually impossible for me to learn by reading.
I'd be absolutely stuffed if it weren't for RUclips & this channel especially has been a gold mine for tips & techniques. 👍
Hey John, I have a plastic fold up table that I locate close to the job. As I disassemble, each component and it's fasteners are placed in order along the table. Makes reassembly easier as you don't forget something and have to backtrack plus it saves bending down and/or tripping over things on the floor.
t saves your back
Great tips for those not into DIY fixing too often. Being a mechanic who worked in various disciplines of the trade for 45 years I expected I would be well-placed to take on a lot of machinery restoration when I retired and I had accrued over the years a lot of old engines and machines and the odd car to work on when this happened. However, what I did not plan for was that because all of these things were old it became clear after dismantling that parts were not readily available to fix them so I ended up with a lot of things pulled apart and not many put back together and that tends to eat into your shed space and can look very untidy. Being retired and a mechanic I soon found the neighbors spending more time talking to me and just by chance having a problem with their mower or brush cutter or car and could I give them some advice which generally turned into could I fix it and what I found out very quickly with the stuff bought from Bunnings etc was to not get involved because unless it is a spark plug or blade or throttle cable it is not meant to be fixed. Every second screw you remove is in plastic and stripped or is plastic and heat affected and snaps or has a bespoke fastener that needs to be destroyed to get it off and can't be bought as a part. It is wrong I know but these machines are throw-away items and they are made that way, of course, this has crept into the car world as well. As a mechanic, it is therapeutic to go back and work on older machinery because it was designed to be taken apart and fixed, and reconditioned. it was heavy and less refined and not as powerful but you did not have to replace it with a new one as often or be a computer programmer as well as a mechanic to get it going. Simpler times.
Merry Christmas John. Was a bit worried one of those grubby lobby groups had found you, but by the grace of you know who, another video is forthcoming!
It's worth mentioning that if you are working on Japanese-manufactured products, there is every likelihood that the cross-point screw heads will comply with the Japanese Industrial Standards (JIS). While most will look at that screw head and reach for the ubiquitous Philips head screwdriver, there is a subtle but significant difference between the latter and a JIS-shaped screw head. Google it. A set of 1/4-inch hex-bit driver JIS inserts should be in every handyman's toolbox.
Not to mention the American Pozidriv version of the Philips screw.
Some great advice & tips there John.
I restore classic cars for a living and at least once a year I am exposed to a new technique or idea pertinent to my industry.
You NEVER stop learning.
The hotties return. All around the world was heard a collective THANK YOU JOHN. 👍
John, you’re a Champion! I’m a retired fitter, after 45 years of swinging Spanner’s I would gladly pay for all work required at your garage 😍. Side note; I sat watching nodding my head yes, that’s a great, that’s right. Well done.
Thank you very much Brian. Heady praise indeed mate. I appreciate you saying so. (You have a lot more experience actually on the tools than me...)
Where the heck have you been, bloody lawns never looked so good without your wise council to procrastinate on.
😂😂😂
after doing this for 50 years (owner operator) the thing you forgot is Patience. when shit gets hard or " can't find wrench i just had or can't find a part i just had" and getting pissed. WALK AWAY , go get a drink and take a break them come back and the tool / part will be right there. like putting a manual trans back in and it just won't go. stop take a brake then try it again and it goes right it. no throwing tools or parts just stop for a minute and clear your head the whole job goes better.
Cadogan your videos are hypnotic and calming. I don't know whether that's a good or a bad thing, or whether the angle of the camera makes me feel like I'm reclined on a couch, in the office of some kind of mechanical shrink.. and I don't even work on cars.
I built a Lego princess castle for my kid the other day though and it required some serious parts management.
"Step aside kid, I've watched Cadogan videos"
Good to see that you found a way to keep Tiffany busy during the video.
I've hoarded many nuts, bolts, springs, clips, screws and washers that are in good condition from things I've fixed or replaced over the years. I also have a decent supply of new bolts, screws, washers, etc, but the box of hoarded stuff has saved many a trip to the hardware store and a few bucks.
I've rebuilt two car engines in my time. My workbench was never cleaner than when I was rebuilding those engines. And it wasn't a quick process, as I had to send blocks and heads away for work, buy oversize pistons, new bearings of the correct size, and so on. I had to be meticulous with what nuts and bolts when where. And it is so satisfying to hear the engines fire up once everything is back together. One engine took me around Australia, the other never gave me any problems as I abused it, as you do. And I agree about the "I want to kill you" attitude of the fat cave permanent residents. Almost had a fingers-on-the-floor situation.
Another thing I would include in tip no. 3 parts management is to manage the strip down by storing the parts in stages of disassembly and don’t just store them all in one container their is nothing worse than searching through a box of parts to find the correct one for the thing you require and end up putting the wrong part in the wrong place. It also makes life easier to reassemble in smaller chunks.
Before starting, check online for an exploded isometric drawing. Most products will have one freely available.
Absolute godsend.
Baggies are good, as you can tape them to the part the fasteners belong to, giving a good 'kit of parts', for each assembly stage. Great video as always, thanks. 👍
Pictures are great, but sometimes video can be helpful. A friend designs and builds industrial machinery. At several steps along the way, and upon completion, he'll walk around the running machine with a video camera, from all angles. It's useful when years later the customer wants another machine like it, and they've probably made alterations (buggered it up) along the way.
As John points out, we all have high definition cameras in our pockets these days. My friend was doing this in the days of a big VHS camera that sat on your shoulder.
Thank you, John, for this video, and others like it. I hope you continue this Fat Cave warrior series. Some things I've learned from other people along the way, or the hard way after I fucked something up. But you have made me go "Oh, wow!" many times.
That's "Oh, wow!" with clothes ON. Jesus, get your mind out of the gutter!
Great tutorial as always mate. For myself when doing DIY, I find the most important three letter word is "why". Why did it break, why won't it come apart, why won't it go back together. Taking a calm moment to ask "why" can save you so much grief. All the best for 2023.
For me, the most imoortant element is to understand how things work. When disassembling, I like to understand the mechanics, what gear drives what etc. It makes reassembly so much easier. And you learn, which is probably the most important goal of it all.
I have a friend that gets out his engraver to mark parts like injector supply lines. Worked great.
You are so right. Taking pictures as you go is like building your own assembly instructions in reverse. I do it every time I disassemble the bang, make it happener for cleaning out of my 50m paper punch. Works well with power tools and auto stuff as well.
May I request, in the new year, a camera on the backboard and bin, in a screen corner, when you launch an A4 reduced ? So as we highly competitive may keep score ?
In my mates cave, it’s Tootheys Dry tinnies, five meters down range, a ‘Keep Left’ sign as backboard….no time for stage fright….highly competitive…especially for a left hander.
Thank you for the sanity provided. Cheers.
Greeting from Canada and thank you again. I am older than you and have accumulated many of the same tools, parts inventory and beliefs. Just a couple of observations:
1. I am finding those magnetized parts holders are less useful with stainless steel (non-magnetic) fasteners Horizontal storage only.
2. A tool I find very useful in a lot of situations (more than I imagined initially) was a sliding hammer. It is stored with my infrequent usage tools. Mine is a made in China version but it works just fine. Usually, no substitute for this tool when you need it.
3. Things I keep in my parts inventory that you didn’t mention: cotter pin assortment, C-clip Assortment, speed nuts and a green (more resistant to corrosive liquids) O-Ring assortment.
One disadvantage I have (exposure to US made products) is that many of my tools (sockets, wrenches, taps & dies, etc.) need to be replicated as I need both metric and imperial sizes. I even have a few Whitworth sockets and spanners as I used to work on British motorcycles. This replication is also applicable to my inventory of fasteners as well.
Bluetti: I bought a 750Whr unit 8 months ago, I have used it during several local power outages, and it also goes in the back of the mighty Ranger for our trips to avoid the caravans heading to DPCk. Great unit, versatile both input and output, reasonably light. I carry it in a well-padded spot to reduce vibration.
(I have no connection to the channel, to Bluetti, etc.)
Merry Christmas JC (and happy birthday).
Hope you enjoyed your break from us all.
Hey mate, I'll add decent side cutters, (long) long nose pliers, lint free shop towels, hand cleaner, assorted greases, I love socket rails, straight rulers/straight edges, replacement sand paper for belt sanders etc, clean safety glasses and possibly decent mechanic gloves which I had avoided for years but love now.
Access to youtube / www as nothing beats instructions I don't know how we survived for so long without it.
Last but not least a way to get a hand, kid, neighbour or last resort wife and someone within shouting distance when you set yourself on fire or cut a finger off yes it happens. Great vid, I enjoyed that one.
Thanks John, love your work and appreciate the tips. Thinking about my generally unfortunate repair experience, the one tip I would add is to search RUclips for specific advice on the repair/maintenance you're contemplating. It's an incredible resource, particularly if you really don't know what you're doing.
Lots of great tips but I still have to add a couple of points. Hygiene, Hygiene, Hygiene!
Clean and "de-clutter" the area that you are working in. Sweep and even vacuum the work bench and the floor under and around it before you start. If you do that, when you drop that tiny roll pin or the unobtainium left hand threaded combination UNF metric UNC Whitworth whatever, you can actually find it in an instant rather than having a temper tantrum, giving up and drinking twelve beers because you know that part is in reality impossible to replace due to it being proprietary in nature. Yes, I've been there.
And make yourself comfortable. If you can, get the work at a good height so you're not busting your back. Stand on anti fatigue matting or consider the option of a good, comfortable chair. Make sure that you are in good light. Having a lamp that you can move around and a torch handy can make things a lot easier. Use your prescription glasses! You are getting old. Accept it!
On the tool front, a couple that I would add to John's collection is a gas torch of some description and perhaps a high power soldering iron. While you can't always apply heat to a threaded fastener safely or practically, when you can, it can be a very good way of collapsing corrosion in the thread in order to facilitate easier removal. But be aware of your surroundings and what you are working on. Batteries and any number of fuels, solvents etc., don't like being exposed to heat and they will let you know in a way that you won't forget, should you live.
Here's my unorthodox source of heat for gentle disassembly operations: a steam washer. We use those things to clean greasy radiators in restaurants and industrial machines and they're great for getting rid of dried up grease, but they also provide a nice amount of heat thats not enough to burn up O-rings and gaskets.
Yep been there done that, so many times! I carry so many different fasteners, o-rings, circlips etc. Couldn't agree more on all your tips, taking photos with the smart phone is so critical, particularly if the rebuild time is extended, having that record of assembly/disassembly just provides that memory jogger so needed for correct assembly and provides that confidence you've got it right. Perhaps a suggestion for future tips, particularly for automotive work, is attention to cleaning of components and tolerance aspects for critical applications. Maybe even the wonderful world of measurement, you know what I mean, using a micrometer or vernier in determining a dimension!
A good list of tips John. I'd just add that once I've removed a component, rather than leaving the fasteners in a tray I thread them back on where they came from. Sure it's double handling but it makes reassembly much easier when you're dealing with a lot of parts.
All good stuff. I turned wrenches for a living. And appreciate the safety preface to your vid.
One thing that I would tell my techs was to prop up their creeper when not in-use. My order was based on the obvious safety implications. Almost without exception, the new guy will ignore this and I would sit back and wait. While the chances of someone accidentally skateboarding on it was pretty low, the chances that the tech would destroy their creeper when running it over after completing the job was pretty high.
Lessons will get learned. A creeper seemed to me to be a cheap way to learn not to ignore good advice.
As an Auto Elect it took a long time to train the local panel shops. But they ended up seeing the light. If a vehicle needed a dash taken out, I would have a roll of masking tape and some old trays to put larger parts in. As the screws came out I would tape them together and mark them then tape them to the part removed . But now with the advent of mobile phone cameras you can take multiple photos at different stages of dismantling. Another tip was sandwich bags for smaller parts and mark the bag with a marker pen. The issue was panel shops could take weeks before reassembly. The camera also helped to show customers the evidence of what was involved in a major job. We used to do a lot of heater cores and A/C evaporators which involved total dash out.
On the point of power tools I was speaking to a customer who decided to use his circular saw he hadn't used in a while .The slight issue was he had used the saw as a temporary bench saw and had the safety shield taped back. He had the saw on the floor, plugged in the saw....The saw took off across the floor and up his leg as the switch was in the locked position.
For parts management I used to cut the bottoms off plastic milk cartons to make high sided square trays to put assemblies in, and their related nuts, bolts, washers etc. They have the added advantage of being invulnerable to oil and chemicals, so you can pour in some rust remover or spray on WD40 etc to let the parts soak a bit if they need a cleanup while making sure things don't get lost or mixed up. And at no cost. With some magnetic trays to put stuff in while you're actively dismantling, it makes a good system especially for projects that are going to take you several days or weeks to complete. Real cheap-ass home engineers can turn the tops into funnels too!
Sticking your phone on video in hard to see places with torch on helpful , sometimes put bearing housing in boiling water or oven ,and bearings in the freezer , helpful at resemble , found the freeze and release aerosol effective , don't get it on you , thanks john well done , having a go is key
John: Phosgene ! I haven't heard that word for 60 years ! In the RCAF we had carbon tetrachloride fire extinguishers, which when they are discharged into an electrical fire, produce phosgene gas. No electrical
service shop had a carbon tet extinguisher. Thank you for reminding me of yesteryear ! Happy New Year John !
Certainly that would do it mate.
Thanks John everything you say is of course rooted in common sense......something we don’t always engage in even when we know we should. there’s nothing like that strange feeling you get when you reassemble a complex machine stand back to admire your work....... and find the "spare" nut or bolt that’s been left over.
One thing I like to do in addition to the photos is use colored stickers or bits of posted notes to match up mainly screws and brackets. That and a magnetic parts mat which has a whiteboard surface so you can draw a colour coded circle around the part than have a legend section denoting what all the different colour coded circles mean. Saved my ass so many times especially when devices have one odd out screw shorter than the others. Or a covering bracket looks identical to others but it's just that tiny bit smaller to the rest of them. Things you would have no hope noticing with the human eye.
This is so true. I work with electrical more so than mechanical systems, postit notes and labels makes the disassembly of circuits and replacement of parts that much easier.
Many years ago, my brother stripped a motorbike down and stored all the bits in boxes with little post-it notes...
Then he opened the garage door, and all the post-it notes ended up in a wee pile at the far end of the garage. Ever since then, gaffer tape and a sharpie for notes on boxes.
Hey Johnny , a can of never seize graphite grease is the best mate when it comes to disassembly of old frozen exhaust pipes , manifolds, boat engine bolts , slasher blades. and other crap that’s easily seized up !! It’s great .
DIYers across the plate, thank you ser!
I was waiting for you to pull out the good old Impact Driver, the hammer blow type, for undoing stubborn Phillip head screws, the best thing I ever bought when finishing my apprenticeship way back when at a Honda dealership 👍
Great advice Vasandani always John. I love your presentation style.
Great vid as usual John, love your work. I usually have a set of split pins handy as well, very rarely do I remove one that will actually go back in again. Happy New Year to you and Tiffany.
I really enjoyed this John! If I had gotten some of these vignettes earlier, I might have been more successful at giving some things a good chance at a second life. Alas, 25% of everything that has come my way to fix has ended up in the trash. Thankfully I still have all my fingers! Wishing you a very prosperous 2023. Stay awesome and keep the good work going!
An actual 50 years in the unforgiving motor trade here in North Wales, and I thoroughly enjoyed this video.
One thing to note concerning Nylocs; they are a good fastener. I have known of reusing them ( not a good idea), and folk reusing them with Loctite. No problem tbf, but there are different strengths of Loctite. NEVER, EVER use high strength Loctite on anything unless you are an experienced dude (or dudette) in the discipline that you are working on. MEDIUM strength is the maximum that you need. Removal of a fastener that has been locked with high strength stuff will most likely require oxy-acetylene fuelled heat application to facilitate removal.
HIGH STRENGTH LOCTITE = SPECIALIST APPLICATION ONLY.
Amen, and A-women
nylocks- if you need to reuse them or want to make them tighter then hit them with a hammer on the top (where the nylon is) with a hammer to crush it a bit more. and yes red Loctite takes 300 deg f to loosen and use sparingly.
Before using high strength (red) Loctite, one needs to put on the wedding officiant hat: "If anyone knows any reason these parts should not be joined, speak now or forever hold your peace."
One thing I do, when taking something complex apart, is have separate parts bins for each stage of disassembly. ie: I'll have one screw bin for the cover, another for the circuit board mounting, etc.
Oh, and on the topic of O-ring assortments. Some of those cheap kits can be a bit out of spec. I replaced some in my hydraulic camper jacks and they leaked worse than before, so I got out my calipers and found that the CS dimension of new ones was smaller than spec'd. So the kit didn't save me an extra trip to the store that time.
Great video, one thing I like to do when pulling a car apart, when parts look the same. Is cheap red and green cable ties. It’s a boat thing but it works for me. Red left and green right. Also remember no Port left in the bottle…😂
…as a machinist by trade, I whole heartedly approve of this message…
Well done, well done!
We do a major Resto every winter on the farm we put all the bits of of every major part in one storage point the most I've had so far is 9 pallets of one mechine with all the part bit for every different bit stored together plus we use picks and marks pro tip if your joining hydrilic hoses use airostart b4 using locktight and make shour the join is spot less the time taken is well worth it as far as tools go while your working if your doing big things with lots of tools get in the habit of keeping them together and cleaning them at least as much as U clean your hands or change your gloves nothing worce then smashing your hands from grease on your tools
I changed a ball joint on a bottom arm recently. It was held in place by its interference fit, a safety circlip and rust. So, lots of heat, and more heat. I used a tube underneath the arm and a large, very large hammer to remove the ball joint. Simple. What I didn't expect was the explosion of toxic gas that took my breath away, from the plastic seating inside the ball joint. Lol.
those tip transitions though, well played sir, you understand your audience.
Excellent vid John, some great tips - especially the ones about impact which, as you mentioned, is counterintuitive for many people.
When stripping the SU carbs on a very old triumph. There slotted screws going into Aluminium…
I mangled the screws on the first one , before I discovered, ( rediscovered?) that you need to whack the screwdriver to break the seal of dissimilar metals first..,
I also have a small tool tray of micro screwdrivers and plastic pry bars for mobile phones, suckers for pilling screens.
Warming up plastic before disassembly ,( I live in the UK) benches at the right height, with various vices, workmates , soft jaws, rags, cheap tool rolls of clean tool just for the house and I write what’s in each zipped pocket..
I've always said if you can't fix it with cunning then then frighten it with violence.
Where possible, I lay out the parts in the order of disassembly, so as to ease the order of re-assembly. Learned that trick from Cadbury fitters on multi-cam wrapping machines back in 73.
1) Ye olde mechanical (cylindrical) impact driver; fits easily into a compact vehicle toolkit, even on a motorcycle (where they are, generally speaking, essential). 1/2" drive into the screwdriver bit coupler means it can also be used with conventional sockets. Always check which direction it's set to rotate when struck (they're reversible).
2) Keep a few empty egg cartons handy; lay the parts out in the order you remove them, work backwards when reassembling. Larger parts can go in the lid section, which is also a good place for notes or sketches to aid with re-assembly. Immediately store 'filled' cartons away from the action, where they won't be spilled or shaken.
Another hand tool - I bought a $100 Ultrasonic Cleaner from E- Bay. Great for cleaning all sorts of things. - great for small engine carburettors - make a sick mower/generator engine run like a Swiss watch again.
PS, you forgot about a good shop first aid kit, big bottle of betadine, plenty of bandaids, bandages, gauze, tweezers, tourniquet, steri-strips, instant cold pack etc, all accessible with one hand..... Or is this just me....
Also tourniquets. If you accidentally sawzall your leg, or drive a chisel through an artery in your arm, or get a limb eaten by a machine you may need to quickly stop some blood flow
Also … eye wash cups. Every shithead who specs up a workplace first aid kit (to sell) leaves them out. There is not much point putting saline syrettes in a first aid kit and hoping that someone else is going to be available to wash out the patient’s eye as per best medical practice. Everything in the kit should be useable by one person!
True, avoid specialist tools. Just tighten the nut until you hear a crack, then back it off quarter turn. Why use a screwdriver when the impact can strip AND twist the head off it?
Extra fasteners? Design Engineer's spares gift to you.
Rattles and squeaks mean you've done a good job 👍
Great to see you John. I hope that your holiday went well.
Inserting screws into deep dark holes where you really don't want to drop them on the end of the driver shaft can be tricky - some people suggest blutac but that can be a dirt magnet. A tiny drop of superglue on the end of your screwdriver, press into the head of the screw, wait 30 seconds and the screw will not fall off. Once the screw is home and tightened, you can yank the driver off easily enough.
This video feels like a high-school shop class educational film, combined with excerpts of a young women's health instruction course. Not complaining at all.
Solid advice. I would make a follow-up one for the car electrical / speakers / fuses, crimping tool, wire types. Disassembly / assembly tools & the (car brand specific) plastic clips that you always break at least one.
Ex: ever replaced a door from a scrap parts supplier and had to rewire 24 cables? Change the head unit for a car? Swap awful 10cm speakers for high quality ones?
Yep and a few heat shrink insulation tubes come in handy too
@@tonymcconnell4956 Oh yeah, forgot those. You can get them in various colours now too. Heat shrink "tape" on a roll was very popular at one point.
Plus the tiny torch that outputs "just the right amount" of heat.
Brilliant John, you hit the nail on the head with this one👌
Automotive technician.
Whenever I work on my car, I unhook the battery. Sometimes I also unhook the coil wire so no spark plug fires while I have my hands, or a wrench on the engine block. An 8 cylinder Pontiac 326 crankshaft and the transmission torque converter it is attached to can spin freely when you spin the big fine threaded bolt holding the harmonic balancer/pulley on the front end of the crank. When you are doing this, or using a screwdriver to lock the torque converter and flywheel so you can remove the front parts or to reinstall them and to torque down to 150 foot-pounds, we don't need a spark plug firing!
Angel at the Pearly Gates: You forgot to unhook the battery and the coil wire?
New Arrival: Yep.
Video yourself taking things apart and use sandwich bags (label them) for the parts. Saw Vtuned rebuilt his McLaren from a total write off like that. Smart thinking. (It ended up a 2 year project. New tub, replace electrics etc.)
If the parts have screws or bolts, reinstall said screws/bolts onto said part after removing it from whatever it was previously attached to. It makes it easier to find the screws/bolts later, and it's fewer things to label/bag up.
I worked as a hanger rat for a few years. We never used video but we certainly used labelled bags for just about everything. The only exception was sometimes we would reinstall fasteners in position.
Reinstalling fasteners into the removed item is fine as long as you don't have to have them re-plated... 🙃
@@LurcherVonPapsmear true... it depends on the part and what's going to happen to it whilst it's away from home lol
Thoughts as I watch along:
- I just bought two cans of brake cleaner yesterday. I did notice they were selling "non chlorinated" formulas as well, any thoughts on those?
- I guess you could argue that those kits of various sized clips etc probably cost less than the fuel to try and find one on a funky hour of a sunday night.
- The kit of O-rings .. What is the "shelf life" of such parts? Being Rubber or whatever .. might they not go a bit bad after enough time?
- Got extra screws / bolts left over after you've "put it back together"? You've done something wrong.
- Torque and torque wrenches. If you're putting anything back together, it's so easy to overtorque fasteners. They often don't need to be as tight as people initially think. Get the tools for the job, and have a workshop manual or whatever that can specify the torques. (Might be worth putting together a cheat sheet of what torques typical fasteners of certain sizes might be .. e.g. a steel M6 fastener might only ever need to be ~15nm max).
About 25:00 Limonene, also known as orange oil, is a great solvent, that's why it's in so many cleaning products. I just found this out a few years ago.
Special tools are a good use for the box of rusty sockets and spanners you found in Grandad's shed. Add some odds and sods of scrap steel, and snot them together with the Mig welder. Who cares if they look ugly when you've just saved £150 and a week's wait?
Thanks for the tips John. I'm happy to say that I do already utilise a few of them. Cheers.
Drawback with impact wrench [mine is a cheap $90 buck 240 volt job] they are great on short reach but when I used a 9 inch half inch drive bar, the flex was just a little too much and it failed to do the job, but I was able to use "short" reach on that job. But they beat the hell out of the old ways we used to do it.
Hey John I love your videos. Don’t laugh but I was a Toyota Technician for 47 years and early on when I was training to work on automatic transmissions we used muffin pans on disassembly and marked each muffin hole with a marker for the small parts
Thank you. Also, great idea.
Must say, very impressed with the models
Add to you stock inventory 'split pins' oh so useful.
I have a tin of various sizes which have served me better over the years than my beloved Tiffany.
I don't use power tools enough to justify buying anything battery powered, like that impact driver...but I still have my old, manual impact driver and a hammer. Bought it in '87 and it's still a goer, use it with all sorts of bits, Phillips, Allen, Torx...even 6- and 12-point sockets. Works a charm any time there's a little rust to deal with, just so long as I have room to swing the BFH.
I have one too - they are very useful.
The old joke about the fingers and the phone call😂
Love the magnetic trays! Much better than studiously putting them in say an ice cream container and then Murphy's Law compels you to accidentally kick it.
Good points
Especially when welding I managed to start a fire in my parts wash tin.
But when is it trying to kill you most? I often ask my post op patients "Was it the first or the last cut?". At least 40% of power tool accidents happen in the first or last two cuts. BTW, totally agree on your comment on leg amputations, more likely motorbike rather than car, but that's another episode.
Thanks John
Any chance you might link to those little spare parts caches that you have John?
I noticed they were all the same brand and it would make it really easy for us inexperienced guys to get the spares you recommend if we just buy what you have there.
Thanks
Grant
Hi, I second that request. I tried to Google the “Box Tac” trade mark shown on the box but had no luck tracking the maker. Missed opportunity for the Australian sales. Cheers mate. Harera
@@pierevojzola9737 "BoxTac" is one word.
@@pierevojzola9737 Hare and Forbes
@@zebby264 cheers
Damn you and your entertainment value! I not only watched the entire promo, but I even clicked on one of the links!! That's it, guess I have to subscribe now and evaluate some life choices.
Those toolpro kits are very good for the price. I've flogged them with no problem.
Single use plastic containers, for the pieces that are a complete assembly being the nuts, bolts, washers, springs that may be unique to that area of the unit. Buy in packs of 50 with lids, it may be a few days before assembly and everything is in one place. Last but not least, clean the parts and put them away in a clean container so you do not have to clean them again.
Good stuff. Happy Christmas.
Toolpro is not a bad brand for the home gamer. Would I use it in the shop, probably not, (I am a SP Tools guy) however the Toolpro quality is fine.
Their Hand tools are pretty great though for the price and come with a lifetime warranty.
Do you have any early-morning workout suggestions, taking perhaps 30 minutes or so? A quck, hard workout, to build your strength and relieve lots of built-up tension? Sounds like a perfect Christmas morning to me.
Also Need to see more of "Parts management" in future video.
25:00 I have had issues using Lanotec similar to Lanox as a lubricant. After the solvent dries the lanolin acts like a glue on things like locks and in my case a gear changer. It lets go with another application of Lanotec but this just adds to the problem after the fresh solvent evaporates off.
Ah, yes, Tip No 6.
My old crappy ute had a clutch fan on it when I got it and I had a plan to replace the water pump. Turns out the previous owners had attempted to remove said clutch fan and had beaten the nut so hard in the wrong direction that it had essentially welded itself to the pump thread. I had to remove the pump and fan as one unit with the plan to remove said fan on the bench. Yeah, nah. I ended up throwing on an electric fan set and bought a new belt pulley to throw on the new water pump. Long story but yeah, knowledge of thread direction is important.
Also on impact give the head of the offendig stuck bolt a good bat of 2 straight at it with a good hammer , helps getin rusted threads going again
In the 1990s, a friend asked for my heip (as a licensed electrician at the time) wiring his 12 vdc system in his mountain cabin, with 4 solar panels and a 600s wind generator. The idea of self-sufficiency is so basic and sensible to me that I don't get why other people don't think this way. Okay, sadly, I do know why, it's that too many people don't want to be responsible for their electric usage.
I gotta change my engines thermostat. As Soon as eurocarparts can find it,
Waiting for a guy to call back about changing brake cylinder (iv not done the brake pipe RUclips course) after that's done I can address the stretched brake bias load spring.(should have paid the delivery charge on the corrugated steel ) new clamp on the exhaust ,oil and filter change and it might pass inspection.
I should get an rattle ratchet,
Thanks for the videos, Happy New year from 🇬🇧, give us a early heads up it 2023 is looking a bit rough
If your working on something that's used off road and has mud on threads use a water spray bottle first to loosen the mud then wd40. Wd40 ect do not penetrate mud/dirt well 👍
Where possible I like to have a diagram or drawing of the item I am working on, granted this is not always possible, cleaning parts as you take them off is one thing I have been doing on my restoration I am currently doing.
Knipex Pliers Wrench, there is no substitute, expensive but worth it.
Buy some bolt glue in small. Dip bolt and screw it in. It makes bolt to newer unscrew it self in operation and 5 years later it's not corroded so it's easy to unscrew and disassemble.
Liked the vid but the girls should have safety glasses.
One tip is that if you need to take a nut off a rusty bolt then get a wire brush on a grinder or drill and clean up the threads. A little lube and impact and they come off like a charm.
There are beard-strokers and Fudds alternating between rage and sobbing thanks to your description of COSMOLINE
I can see John, you do believe that idle hands don't lead to anything good. At least this is what my parents told me, often on a daily basis. However, I do believe that we can produce Electricity on a daily basis, as 'many hands make light work'.