just thinking about tensioning on a frame loom ... instead of nailing the top stringer ... add some dowls pointing upwards from the top stringer ... say 4 or 5 ... take a another board with holes for the dowls .. and a bevel or dimple for springs between the frames top stringer and the new one with the holes ... nail the new stringer with the holes at your desired spacing ... tie you start on the top stringer with the holes and loop as usual ... as you loop add some tension to pull the top board towards the frame ... close but not against it ... and loop off your end one the mobile top stringer ... then you can keep tension on the weft strings and still adjust the tension to an even spread across the whole frame by keeping the distance of the mobile stringer the same from the top of the frame ...keep adding tension until you have the mobile stringer within your weft spacing .... this should allow you to lock the mobile stringer down and then weave between these strands and they will always keep their starting tension . I suspect one can also do the same perpendicular to your first weft lines ... dont weave these in ... as you can then pass your thread or whatever over and under between each line and at each cross over tamping these woven lines into place ... i would think this would also end up locking your woven thread in and making a very dense very tight double cross weave pattern ... heck it might even be water resistant ... i expect one would need to pay a ton of attention to each pass of the woven material to ensure it goes the correct way over and under each line and each join as well ... but I think it could be workable ..
My wife just got me a loom for my birthday, and the written instructions just gave me a headache. I have really enjoyed your video's. Now what they are saying in the instructions makes a lot more sense. On this loom the ends of the frame rotate so you can do long pieces. I am interested in how to lay out patterns. I can see a lot of counting. I want to make a guitar strap to start with.
I started to make a frame out of pvc pre cut pipes and elbows the nails I got are brass so that it stands out against the white of the pipe. It's really light weight.
That is great to hear- now it’s time to experiment ! :) On the Website you can find a free step by step Beginner Weaver guide- there I have ordered the tutorials/steps I recommend doing first. I hope this was helpful! Happy Weaving!
Incredibly helpful. Thank you. I have a very large frame I will be using. I make make some smaller ones, too. I was wondering, is there a way to make very long pieces on a frame loom - longer than the length of the frame loom? How would a person continue working on the piece, having to move it vertically down? Is there a way?
Hi- that is a great question! Usually we are constricted to the frame’s dimensions. In short: it depends on the frame loom you have. There are some lap looms/ frame looms that have a (or 2) detachable side(s), which can be clamped down to a table (for example), and the other end also be clamped down to another side of the table or roll up extra yarn. But, not all frame looms have this feature and it isn’t so ideal. Therefore it is difficult to extend a design or length to a piece on a fixed loom. In the second part of my scarf weaving tutorial, I show how I weave a piece in sections on a frame loom and later attach them. But, I think you are interested in a continuous design. If you are interested in using a small loom that can handle more fabric and material, then you could look into a “Rigid Heddle Loom”. This type of entry loom can handle more yarn ends and length than a frame loom. You can roll up what you weave as you progress your design. You could also try a small floor loom I hope that this helps :) Please let me know if you have any more questions !
I would expect that would be mostly like how do you tell when a bread dough is at the right state of kneeding ... by feel ... example you wouldn't use a 2 inch spike on a 1 inch wide frame ... if you want a tight weave then smaller nails and more of them on each side ... say finishing nails and then perhaps a nail every 1/8th of an inch ... or use the normal 1 inch nails and go one every 1/4 inch ... I expect the main idea is more nails tighter fabric ... less nails looser fabric ... large diameter nails need more wood to avoid splitting the frame and smaller nails need less ... at least that what common sense says to me ... ;)
Hi, thanks for this video! I went out yesterday and bought supplies, unfortunately i think the thread i got is too thick or the nails are too thing because with these measurements there is no space between the thread... can you share what size nails and what thread you used to make the loom? it would be greatly appreciated!
Hi there, I just wanted to let you know I've seen other videos where they have two rows of nails, so every other nail is on the lower row and higher row, so the nails are not right next to each other. Hope that makes sense!
could putting a heddle at both ends work to keep the thread in place of nails? and using an upholstery needle to pull thread through rather than looping it around nails? or not possible to do?
Hi! I've never woven anything before so my apologies if this is a stupid question. I am wondering how/where to make or buy the piece of wood that allows you to switch your raised and lowered threads on a loom. I know you can put a simple stick through every other thread but that doesn't work when you need the opposite warp threads on top. Again, apologies if this question doesn't make sense. Thank you 😊
HI :) Hmmm… I am not sure if I understand your question exactly, but no worries: I am not sure if you mean a “shed stick” (?) You can use a flat piece of wood, from a craft store or home improvement store, or use a ruler (my fav alternative). But, if that is not what you mean, have you tried using a string heddle? If you are trying to separate and manage a special design, you can rig up a few sets of string heddles to lift while weaving on a frame loom. I have a video on how to make here on the channel or website. I hope this helps! If not, please leave another comment and I will try to think of another solution :)
@@fibersanddesignweaving I think I mean heddle! I'm so sorry. I just bought my first ball of yarn yesterday so this is all new to me.. I'll look for that in your videos ☺️
I understand your question, and that's exactly what I'm looking for too! :D Did you find anything? I'm not sure that this exists with hand weaving. Maybe only the big weaving machines can do that. xx
A good string to start weaving with would be crocheter's cotton (used to make doilies). Embroidery floss can also be a good choice to add vibrant colors to a piece, usually as weft.
Hi Amna! Well, it depends on the yarn thickness and the design that you want to create. If making a DIY frame loom, then I like to space out the nails .25 inch (2,5 mm) on the top and bottom of the frame. That way you can make the warp spacing wider or narrower to fit your project. Hope this helps! :)
assuming that's 15 inches ... at 1/4 inch spacing that's 60 nails an end ... at 1/8th it would be 120 nails per side ... at half inch 30 nails ... it just boils down to how tight you want the fabric and how thick your material is ... if you use say standard thread ... anything down to 1/6th of an inch would work .. but for room to weave around an 1/8th or 1/4 inch spacing would be most suitable .. the finer the thread the finer the spacing can be ... . if I am understanding fibers and design weaving correctly ... you would be looking at a base thread length of 3600 inches of thread (plus some extra for the knots ) or about 300 FEET for the base weave ... and to keep that high density when you weave into it you would need another 3600 Plus inches of thread to weave back and forth ... or use a slightly thicker thread and use less to weave ... . the thread count would be 4 threads per inch weft and could be upto double that for what you weave in ... IF you use very fine thread like say silk or some such ... in general 1/6th inch diameter thread at 1/8th inch spacing for the base ... and something similar to weave in ... but 1/32nd diameter thread would allow you to double the thread count of what you weave on the base 1/8th inch spaced thread of about 1/6th of an inch diameter . . That's my understanding anyway ...
the more nails the smaller diameter they need to be ... standard nails are about 1/8th of an inch ... finishing nails about 1/16th ... and pins about 1/32nd ... if you use pins angle them away from the weaving area at approximately 45 degrees so they can hold the tension without bending when you tighten them ... personally I would do that for nails even so they always make the thread slide back to the frame and keep and even tension ... sure the angle doesnt have to be exact but an angle somewhere between half upright and half flat down would work fine ... heck one row at 45 one row at 60 and one row at 30 would also work ... and then you get more threads per inch also
Pre-drilling tiny holes will help prevent the wood splitting. Otherwise, perhaps you are putting too much tension on your warp. You may want to try building a frame from sturdier pieces of wood.
Thank you ! my husband is making a loom for me. I will venture into this world of weaving 😃🙏
How exciting Claudia- I hope you enjoy weaving your first project! Thank you for watching :)
This was so helpful, thank you.
This video is super helpful
Thank You, Fibers and Design Weaving 🙏🏾 I’m going to watch your ‘Weaving Basics’ playlist now so I can learn what comes next 😊
I recently became interested in weaving and your videos and website have been so, so helpful for me! Thank you!!
Great tutorial, very calm and easy to understand
just thinking about tensioning on a frame loom ... instead of nailing the top stringer ... add some dowls pointing upwards from the top stringer ... say 4 or 5 ... take a another board with holes for the dowls .. and a bevel or dimple for springs between the frames top stringer and the new one with the holes ... nail the new stringer with the holes at your desired spacing ... tie you start on the top stringer with the holes and loop as usual ... as you loop add some tension to pull the top board towards the frame ... close but not against it ... and loop off your end one the mobile top stringer ... then you can keep tension on the weft strings and still adjust the tension to an even spread across the whole frame by keeping the distance of the mobile stringer the same from the top of the frame ...keep adding tension until you have the mobile stringer within your weft spacing .... this should allow you to lock the mobile stringer down and then weave between these strands and they will always keep their starting tension
.
I suspect one can also do the same perpendicular to your first weft lines ... dont weave these in ... as you can then pass your thread or whatever over and under between each line and at each cross over tamping these woven lines into place ... i would think this would also end up locking your woven thread in and making a very dense very tight double cross weave pattern ... heck it might even be water resistant ... i expect one would need to pay a ton of attention to each pass of the woven material to ensure it goes the correct way over and under each line and each join as well ... but I think it could be workable ..
My wife just got me a loom for my birthday, and the written instructions just gave me a headache. I have really enjoyed your video's. Now what they are saying in the instructions makes a lot more sense. On this loom the ends of the frame rotate so you can do long pieces. I am interested in how to lay out patterns. I can see a lot of counting. I want to make a guitar strap to start with.
I started to make a frame out of pvc pre cut pipes and elbows the nails I got are brass so that it stands out against the white of the pipe. It's really light weight.
It turned out great. I’m ready!
That is great to hear- now it’s time to experiment ! :) On the Website you can find a free step by step Beginner Weaver guide- there I have ordered the tutorials/steps I recommend doing first. I hope this was helpful! Happy Weaving!
thank you for making these videos!
You are very welcome! Thank you so much for your kind words and for watching! I hope to continue creating helpful videos!
Thank you so much. What is the measurement for this loom? Also what is the distance between each nail you used? Thank you. That was a nice lecture.
Thank you so much, I want to make my own rug soon
This is so interesting and helpful! Thanks!
you are amazing thank youuuuu
Just to answer your question..
Tightening your warp is called
"Warp tuning".. just like a guitar.
Very good explanation thank you
Thank you. Happy I found you.
Incredibly helpful. Thank you. I have a very large frame I will be using. I make make some smaller ones, too. I was wondering, is there a way to make very long pieces on a frame loom - longer than the length of the frame loom? How would a person continue working on the piece, having to move it vertically down? Is there a way?
Hi- that is a great question! Usually we are constricted to the frame’s dimensions. In short: it depends on the frame loom you have. There are some lap looms/ frame looms that have a (or 2) detachable side(s), which can be clamped down to a table (for example), and the other end also be clamped down to another side of the table or roll up extra yarn. But, not all frame looms have this feature and it isn’t so ideal. Therefore it is difficult to extend a design or length to a piece on a fixed loom.
In the second part of my scarf weaving tutorial, I show how I weave a piece in sections on a frame loom and later attach them. But, I think you are interested in a continuous design.
If you are interested in using a small loom that can handle more fabric and material, then you could look into a “Rigid Heddle Loom”. This type of entry loom can handle more yarn ends and length than a frame loom. You can roll up what you weave as you progress your design. You could also try a small floor loom
I hope that this helps :) Please let me know if you have any more questions !
Investigate peg looms and see it they might help with what you want to do.
@@debbiewetzel7154Since I wrote that comment, I got a peg loom! They are great!
Nice! Now what about the rest? We're still missing a few parts.
What size nails do you use for the frame out of interest ? Thanks!
I would expect that would be mostly like how do you tell when a bread dough is at the right state of kneeding ... by feel ... example you wouldn't use a 2 inch spike on a 1 inch wide frame ... if you want a tight weave then smaller nails and more of them on each side ... say finishing nails and then perhaps a nail every 1/8th of an inch ... or use the normal 1 inch nails and go one every 1/4 inch ... I expect the main idea is more nails tighter fabric ... less nails looser fabric ... large diameter nails need more wood to avoid splitting the frame and smaller nails need less ... at least that what common sense says to me ... ;)
Hi, thanks for this video! I went out yesterday and bought supplies, unfortunately i think the thread i got is too thick or the nails are too thing because with these measurements there is no space between the thread... can you share what size nails and what thread you used to make the loom? it would be greatly appreciated!
Hi there, I just wanted to let you know I've seen other videos where they have two rows of nails, so every other nail is on the lower row and higher row, so the nails are not right next to each other. Hope that makes sense!
Thank you ❤
You are very welcome! :) Happy Weaving!
could putting a heddle at both ends work to keep the thread in place of nails? and using an upholstery needle to pull thread through rather than looping it around nails? or not possible to do?
thank you!!!
Great episode! #Keepupthegreatwork
What do you suggest using as a shuttle to hold the yarn? And do you open the warp with anything?
guess i should have found your video double warping and watched first ...for answer to my question.
Thank you
Hi! I've never woven anything before so my apologies if this is a stupid question. I am wondering how/where to make or buy the piece of wood that allows you to switch your raised and lowered threads on a loom. I know you can put a simple stick through every other thread but that doesn't work when you need the opposite warp threads on top. Again, apologies if this question doesn't make sense. Thank you 😊
Ah, I think the word I'm looking for is shed stick. Is there a way to make or buy one that switches the raised and lowered warp threads?
HI :) Hmmm… I am not sure if I understand your question exactly, but no worries:
I am not sure if you mean a “shed stick” (?) You can use a flat piece of wood, from a craft store or home improvement store, or use a ruler (my fav alternative).
But, if that is not what you mean, have you tried using a string heddle? If you are trying to separate and manage a special design, you can rig up a few sets of string heddles to lift while weaving on a frame loom. I have a video on how to make here on the channel or website.
I hope this helps! If not, please leave another comment and I will try to think of another solution :)
@@fibersanddesignweaving I think I mean heddle! I'm so sorry. I just bought my first ball of yarn yesterday so this is all new to me.. I'll look for that in your videos ☺️
@@rebelprep That is very exciting! I hope the video helps! Please let me know if you have any more questions :)
I understand your question, and that's exactly what I'm looking for too! :D Did you find anything? I'm not sure that this exists with hand weaving. Maybe only the big weaving machines can do that. xx
Can I use the same measurements to make a frame for pom pom blanket?
very nice
what type of string are you using?
A good string to start weaving with would be crocheter's cotton (used to make doilies). Embroidery floss can also be a good choice to add vibrant colors to a piece, usually as weft.
I want 15 by 15 length and width so how much nail should I place please kindly reply it’s my first time 😔
Plz tell me how nails should I place for 15 by 15 weaving project it’s my first time 😔
Hi Amna! Well, it depends on the yarn thickness and the design that you want to create. If making a DIY frame loom, then I like to space out the nails .25 inch (2,5 mm) on the top and bottom of the frame. That way you can make the warp spacing wider or narrower to fit your project. Hope this helps! :)
@@fibersanddesignweaving hi
assuming that's 15 inches ... at 1/4 inch spacing that's 60 nails an end ... at 1/8th it would be 120 nails per side ... at half inch 30 nails ... it just boils down to how tight you want the fabric and how thick your material is ... if you use say standard thread ... anything down to 1/6th of an inch would work .. but for room to weave around an 1/8th or 1/4 inch spacing would be most suitable .. the finer the thread the finer the spacing can be ...
.
if I am understanding fibers and design weaving correctly ... you would be looking at a base thread length of 3600 inches of thread (plus some extra for the knots ) or about 300 FEET for the base weave ... and to keep that high density when you weave into it you would need another 3600 Plus inches of thread to weave back and forth ... or use a slightly thicker thread and use less to weave ...
.
the thread count would be 4 threads per inch weft and could be upto double that for what you weave in ... IF you use very fine thread like say silk or some such ... in general 1/6th inch diameter thread at 1/8th inch spacing for the base ... and something similar to weave in ... but 1/32nd diameter thread would allow you to double the thread count of what you weave on the base 1/8th inch spaced thread of about 1/6th of an inch diameter .
.
That's my understanding anyway ...
the more nails the smaller diameter they need to be ... standard nails are about 1/8th of an inch ... finishing nails about 1/16th ... and pins about 1/32nd ... if you use pins angle them away from the weaving area at approximately 45 degrees so they can hold the tension without bending when you tighten them ... personally I would do that for nails even so they always make the thread slide back to the frame and keep and even tension ... sure the angle doesnt have to be exact but an angle somewhere between half upright and half flat down would work fine ... heck one row at 45 one row at 60 and one row at 30 would also work ... and then you get more threads per inch also
Wowwwwww 😍💗💓👍👍👍
Thank you Pat for watching! :)
👌💕
I used to want to make mine from scratch but my damn wood is splitting.
Pre-drilling tiny holes will help prevent the wood splitting. Otherwise, perhaps you are putting too much tension on your warp. You may want to try building a frame from sturdier pieces of wood.
Kindly reply 😶
I'm really sure you can build it yourself. I did this 2 weeks ago thanks to the Woodglut plans.
Thank you 💜
Happy to help :)