Great job on the restoration. And let's not forget that knob extension. Job well done. Hopefully you will run across the tools to go with it. Thanks for sharing and God bless.
@Rysiek N. Thanks! And, yes, exactly my intent! I had the date here on my calendar but was afraid to mention it in the video as I didn’t see anything going on about Pressure Stove Day at the regular social forums. I thought maybe I’d goofed! 😲 Thanks both for the shout-out and the confirmation I got the date right. 👍😎 BD
@Cameron Lewington Thanks Cam! Hey! You're in the UK. A feller in the comments asked about when these were used. I said I thought, but didn't know for sure, early 1950's through 1970's. Does that sound about right to you? Thanks! BD
@Daniel Grenier Thanks Dan. I'm afraid I'm not the best when it comes to being a historian. From what little I know about these, this roarer version was in issue from early 1950's through the seventies. There is a later model I'll show sometime that's known as the "#2 - modified" which has a "sort of silent" burner on it. From my research, I suspect those would have continued to be issued into the 1980s. But, I could be wrong on all this. Sorry I can't be more definitive. BD
Hey man! For sure you can help me. I have since a while an identical military cooker and now I'm trying to make it operative. The biggest issue for me is that valve brass wheel. If I turn it on counterclockwise, it cames loose and unscrew.... coming completely off from its axis. How could I fix that issue? Excuse me for my English.... and best regards from Italy. 👋🏻😉
@hrodwulf8093 Hey! If you watch the video at this point ruclips.net/video/2dj1n1s9zt4/видео.html you can see how the nut that holds the knob on the spindle shaft is soldered to the end of the spindle shaft with lead/tin alloy solder. It should have come that way. If yours doesn't, you'll need to do that to secure the nut. But, the brass knob itself should be keyed to fit the flats on the spindle shaft, too. The knob should not spin freely. Check yours and see. Maybe someone stripped it out. BD
Sorry. I only made one for me and my stove. Just check with your local machinist for such work. Guys that have model trains are often amateur machinists and might do such for a case of beer. Reach out. BD
@Steven Scott Nope. Sorry. But, I've shown you how to do it yourself (or have a machinist friend or for-hire do it for you). Just step up and make the phone call(s), show the maker this video, pay some money, and you'll be as happy as a clam with your new knob. Easy-peasy. 👍 BD
dangerous as you could possibly imagine.... but I'd love to have one. I thought the replacement knob was the most admirable case of over engineering I've ever seen - And I over engineer everything.
@occam raiser Thanks on the knob. If you think they are "dangerous" (they aren't in even half-competent hands), then you definitely are better off without one. 👍 BD
@Nixon The head of the standard NRV is 5mm wide across the flats. So the slot you want on the tool you buy or make should be 5mm wide by whatever the diameter of the inside of your pump tube is (ideally). If you make or buy a tool that is smaller diameter than the ID of the pump tube - that's okay, just make sure you don't tilt the tool in use. You can wrap the tool with some tape to make a snugger fit and prevent tipping/tilting. The depth of the slot for the NRV head should be about 5mm, too. Easy tool to make with a hacksaw and a file. Or, a Dremel tool if you don't mind all that high-pitched whining (from the Dremel tool). BD
Nice restore of the stove Gary. What a great job on the knob. Thanks for sharing the video. Have a good weekend. Be safe and stay warm.
Thanks 👍
Great job on the restoration.
And let's not forget that knob extension. Job well done.
Hopefully you will run across the tools to go with it.
Thanks for sharing and God bless.
@BluegrassBushcraft Thanks! 👍 BD
A video for a Pressure Stove day! Awesome! And it's very nice knob!
@Rysiek N. Thanks! And, yes, exactly my intent! I had the date here on my calendar but was afraid to mention it in the video as I didn’t see anything going on about Pressure Stove Day at the regular social forums. I thought maybe I’d goofed! 😲 Thanks both for the shout-out and the confirmation I got the date right. 👍😎 BD
Nice job on the restore and knob.
@Oxxnarr D'flame Thanks 👍 BD
Great video Gary, thanks for sharing! Keep doing what you do fella, it’s appreciated! Cam (England) 👍🏻👍🏻
@Cameron Lewington Thanks Cam! Hey! You're in the UK. A feller in the comments asked about when these were used. I said I thought, but didn't know for sure, early 1950's through 1970's. Does that sound about right to you? Thanks! BD
@@BernieDawgCinema yes it does sound right from my limited knowledge, reinforced with the fact they now have a no12. Cam
@Cameron Lewington Thanks Cam! Do you know if the #12 are still in use by troops? They are definitely a step up from the #2. BD
Gary is an Artist!
@Denton Slovacek Aw, shucks. ☺️ Thanks Denton! BD
Nice 👍. Thanks for sharing 😊.
Thanks! BD
Lovely restoration, pleasant to see it working :)
@Bez stopy Many thanks! Love your outdoor adventure videos. 👍 BD
Very cool stove Bernie Dog. Good to see you. Take care 🤙 JB
Thanks 👍 BD
Very nice stove
God bless you all the time you are the master of stoves you are the best
@Ahmed Abdelbary Wow! Thanks, Ahmed. ☺️🙏 BD
Hey, that's great fun to see! What is the vintage for this? When would British soldiers have used this type of stove? Thanks for sharing!
@Daniel Grenier Thanks Dan. I'm afraid I'm not the best when it comes to being a historian. From what little I know about these, this roarer version was in issue from early 1950's through the seventies. There is a later model I'll show sometime that's known as the "#2 - modified" which has a "sort of silent" burner on it. From my research, I suspect those would have continued to be issued into the 1980s. But, I could be wrong on all this. Sorry I can't be more definitive. BD
Hey man! For sure you can help me. I have since a while an identical military cooker and now I'm trying to make it operative. The biggest issue for me is that valve brass wheel. If I turn it on counterclockwise, it cames loose and unscrew.... coming completely off from its axis. How could I fix that issue? Excuse me for my English.... and best regards from Italy.
👋🏻😉
@hrodwulf8093 Hey! If you watch the video at this point ruclips.net/video/2dj1n1s9zt4/видео.html you can see how the nut that holds the knob on the spindle shaft is soldered to the end of the spindle shaft with lead/tin alloy solder. It should have come that way. If yours doesn't, you'll need to do that to secure the nut. But, the brass knob itself should be keyed to fit the flats on the spindle shaft, too. The knob should not spin freely. Check yours and see. Maybe someone stripped it out. BD
we had them in the early 90's tanks.
@Jef Blogs Did you like them? BD
Do you still make. The stove knob connection if you make to order I like to purchase please
Sorry. I only made one for me and my stove. Just check with your local machinist for such work. Guys that have model trains are often amateur machinists and might do such for a case of beer. Reach out. BD
Hi there. I dont suppose you're selling the fuel knobs you have made?
@Steven Scott Nope. Sorry. But, I've shown you how to do it yourself (or have a machinist friend or for-hire do it for you). Just step up and make the phone call(s), show the maker this video, pay some money, and you'll be as happy as a clam with your new knob. Easy-peasy. 👍 BD
dangerous as you could possibly imagine.... but I'd love to have one. I thought the replacement knob was the most admirable case of over engineering I've ever seen - And I over engineer everything.
@occam raiser Thanks on the knob. If you think they are "dangerous" (they aren't in even half-competent hands), then you definitely are better off without one. 👍 BD
I was going to make a he said knob joke, but.....too late
😁
Hi, I’m going through my hillerange stove and the nrv is bad, I need the tool to take it out, any idea what size the flats are ?
@Nixon The head of the standard NRV is 5mm wide across the flats. So the slot you want on the tool you buy or make should be 5mm wide by whatever the diameter of the inside of your pump tube is (ideally). If you make or buy a tool that is smaller diameter than the ID of the pump tube - that's okay, just make sure you don't tilt the tool in use. You can wrap the tool with some tape to make a snugger fit and prevent tipping/tilting. The depth of the slot for the NRV head should be about 5mm, too. Easy tool to make with a hacksaw and a file. Or, a Dremel tool if you don't mind all that high-pitched whining (from the Dremel tool). BD