Very interesting! A few questions - 1) Why did you mount everything so elevated from the roof surface, why those ginormous aluminum blocks? 2) Did you give any consideration to roof rails designed to fit the sides of the van roof, and then build up a rack system attached to brackets in the roof rails? And if you did give that consideration, why reject that idea? 3) Are the panels, on the elevated sides, ever secured to the van roof in any way when they're lowered, for travel? Or do you depend on the actuator to keep the whole assembly in place despite airflow?
Hi, 1) It is mainly so that the actuator has a viable starting angle. is the actuator starting angle is too low it will simply blow the frame apart rather than raise it up. However the system could certainly lower by at least 25%, however this is the alu box i had. The added bonus is that there is nice storage underneath the panels now, surf boards are no problem to secure to the roof now. 2) Yes. Rejected due to cost and being unnecessary. A suitable roof rack for this sprinter would cost me more than €650 delivered, then to get the system working with the roof rack would take a similar amount of material and engineering anyway. 3)It is just the actuator keeping it secured at the moment on one side, however this is a half inch thick metal bar secured with various M10 bolts, on the other side it is secured with thick steel hinges secured with 32 M6 bolts. Dynamic airflow when driving down a motorway is a consideration, however the current setup should more than cope with it. I will probably add some spring bolts on the corners on the actuator side, more to keep it from flexing during driving that to secure it.
I should also add to 1) that if i wanted the suitable roof rack, the roof vents would have been very tricky, there is actually another vent now for the shower extractor fan. I would have ended up cutting away a lot of the roof rack cross supports. You end up being left with a very small amount of steel on the roof for €650! Plus the steel roof rack just makes the setup unnecessarily heavy.
I know I'd like to do a system like this on a future build, but I think it could be done without so much hardware attached directly to the roof itself. I'm thinking generic rails on the sides, brackets/crossbars set up where needed; not a pre-made roof rack solution that (like you said) would require cutting here and there to make things work. Thinking about it, I think one could even make that work with the need to have the base of the actuator a ways lower than the panels to make things function properly...
@@scottweikert5189 Hey Scott, have you started on your system yet? I'm thinking about doing the same thing and I'm interested in any other ideas for setting up such a system.
@@pittarak1 (it's me) No, I have not yet started. When I first posted I didn't even have a van. Now I do! But I'm still in the fix-up stage. I do plan to mount my solar on the roof using a roof rack system of some sort, but I think to start, I'll stick with the simple solution of flat-mounting my panels, just to move the build along. I will, however, set up the mounts in a way that I could go back and modify them with an actuator, should I find I need that extra efficiency.
This is very cool. I hope it lasts a long time for you. We have a solar system we will be installing this year and we've talked about having something like this or something similar. 😊 New friends here. We look forward to seeing more of your videos. (Emilie and Tito)
Is there a latch or something to secure the non-hinged side when the panels are stowed while driving? Or is the linear actuator strong enough to hold the panels snug in the stowed position?
Can I rig a handcrank angled array. That extends to 185 degrees. With gas charged pistons sliding inside side to side roof tracks? Becoming an awning over the side doors? Supported with 3 - 5 telescoping poles. With a deck you can sit on underneath, now facing up? And another deck on the van roof with additional panels on top of a 30cm tall case covering the entire roof? With ducts for fans and AC in the case. With storage between the ducts for surfboards, kayacks, or even a waterfoil board? With panels being cleaned from the ground? And air/watertight lids with solar panels in them on top of the case/vandeck? Or adjacent to them. Bringing it to 1 - 2 kilowatts? Say for 5 - 8 grand? And a 6mo to 1yr project? Or is this a hairbrained scheme? It's a lot more storage, deck space, and enough solar wattage to top off an electric motor, or hybrid motor, if you installed one in 10 years or so. The array needs to be light. And reinforced with more aluminum framing to support multiple people. Say 5 - 8cm thick. But hand gear crank and 2 - 3 pistons support it. The sit on deck underneath the array is optional (sketchy). But not on top of the framed out vancase.
Standard Silicon is water based and breads down in wet conditions.. Use 100% rubber Silicon and it will never leak and it acts like a super bonding glue..
That, and using rubber oversized washers on each side of the sheet metal along with large stainless steel washers to clamp it all flat would be a durable option that won’t crack like sealant will over time.
Watching this in April 2021. Thanks for posting - most helpful. Just a couple of questions: 1. Would you locate the control box just inside the van under cover out of the weather or are you finding it being easier to use where it is? If you moved it, I know that you'd then have to run 2 wires (power for the actuator and also the sensor) from the control box through the roof via a solar entry gland. Your thoughts? Thanks again.
The control box is waterproof, just the screws that came with it are not stainless which is a bit annoying, but I've put silicon over them now. Is useful to have the box outside as I can easily watch the panels and their position as manually operating them with the remote. I have already run 12v out through an entry gland, it then splits to the actuator and control box. Running power to the control box inside the van wouldn't be an issue either. You could have the control box inside, it doesn't really make much of a difference.
the system is nice but your build could be much better , the controller should be build in the van , I do understand the heights in case you take a surfboard with you you should get some kaps for those aluminum bars to cover up and keep it clean inside those tubes, did you get them secured wen they down in case of driving ? also use RVS bolts and washing rings better against rust ;-) but weldone mate ! a small type for anyone : for the bolts and wonder metal stuff by a spray can with plastic spray , spray bolts and other metal stuff with it , it will not rust at all
How are you grounding your panels, through the frame? If so, I'd be worried about trying to pass ground through a galvanic rust hinge connection.. Mine call for a dedicated ground lug, and I can also get cord tamers that snap into the back of the panels...
Their on a van on four rubber wheels, there is no 'ground'. The positive and negative just go back to the charge controller. It's a 'floating' system like any vehicle. I'd only consider 'grounding' the aluminium frames to the vehicle chassis if the system was running at over 50v DC.
Awesome video! This Ethan from Australia - I want to do something similar to my Toyota Prado mounted on rhino roof rack - without drilling holes into my car. That said I love your setup. The web link on your bio is broken - any chance you could provide name and model number of the controller unit? Also is the controller unit GPS auto controlled or purely with solar sensors? Many thanks!
Thanks, they don't sell the tracker I have anymore. Just search 'sigle axis solar tracker' on AliExpress and you'll find better systems. Something like this : a.aliexpress.com/_m01MH3K
Is there any lock while you're driving down the road on the side that elevates? Or does it just rest on those glued blocks with the actuator holding it down?
Hi, yes the actuator is IP65 rated. However I believe the orientation is important, you'll see I have the extending screw end mounted to the roof of the van. This should stop water dripping down and possibly into the lead screw overtime.
Hi , This is a great project that Id like to do on my own van . Do you know where i can get the remote kit with solar sensor and control box from and also a good source in the UK for a DC 12V actuator?
It's on Alibaba. Search for 12v Single-axis solar automatic tracking controller. Current cost with delivery around £85 - that kit is with a wind speed retractor.
Here is a link to the manufacturer of the tracking system: www.eco-worthy.com/collections/solar-tracking-kit/products/dual-axis-solar-tracker-controller-with-remote-control?variant=37733871550652
Those nuts inside may rip out the car sheet metal. You need bigger washers or thin metal plates as backing so that the bolt will not shear the car sheet metal. Car sheet metal is not strong. The wind force on the panels will be huge when you are driving down the road. The whole idea is brilliant. I just think you need to get those inside nuts fixed.
Thanks, but I disagree, the force translated to each individual bolt would be minimal. The force required to laterally sheer the metal across 10, tensioned points of contact (10large bolts) would be extraordinary. In my opinion there would be no possibility of wind force acting on the panels being able to impart anywhere near the required force. The entire thing is very over engineered.
I can't find the exact one anymore. Here is a link for a similar one, except it's dual-axis, you could probably modify it/program it for single axis. www.eco-worthy.com/products/dual-axis-solar-tracker-controller-with-remote-control
@@yingli8028 there's a guy in Israel that makes a range of these solar trackers. Sorry that I don't have his details but he's on eBay. I paid £14 for mine but I will need to add a capsule to it or make one. On top of that you will need the remote control unit. Or on Alibaba this unit is available with a windspeed retractor in the kit. I hope this helps you.
They have been in near hurricane force and have been driven down the motorway at full speed for hours with high winds. They have not budged. Again, like others, you are misunderstanding the engineering. They've actually been signed off after an qualified engineer inspection of the van.
Very interesting! A few questions -
1) Why did you mount everything so elevated from the roof surface, why those ginormous aluminum blocks?
2) Did you give any consideration to roof rails designed to fit the sides of the van roof, and then build up a rack system attached to brackets in the roof rails? And if you did give that consideration, why reject that idea?
3) Are the panels, on the elevated sides, ever secured to the van roof in any way when they're lowered, for travel? Or do you depend on the actuator to keep the whole assembly in place despite airflow?
Hi,
1) It is mainly so that the actuator has a viable starting angle. is the actuator starting angle is too low it will simply blow the frame apart rather than raise it up. However the system could certainly lower by at least 25%, however this is the alu box i had. The added bonus is that there is nice storage underneath the panels now, surf boards are no problem to secure to the roof now.
2) Yes. Rejected due to cost and being unnecessary. A suitable roof rack for this sprinter would cost me more than €650 delivered, then to get the system working with the roof rack would take a similar amount of material and engineering anyway.
3)It is just the actuator keeping it secured at the moment on one side, however this is a half inch thick metal bar secured with various M10 bolts, on the other side it is secured with thick steel hinges secured with 32 M6 bolts. Dynamic airflow when driving down a motorway is a consideration, however the current setup should more than cope with it. I will probably add some spring bolts on the corners on the actuator side, more to keep it from flexing during driving that to secure it.
I should also add to 1) that if i wanted the suitable roof rack, the roof vents would have been very tricky, there is actually another vent now for the shower extractor fan. I would have ended up cutting away a lot of the roof rack cross supports. You end up being left with a very small amount of steel on the roof for €650! Plus the steel roof rack just makes the setup unnecessarily heavy.
I know I'd like to do a system like this on a future build, but I think it could be done without so much hardware attached directly to the roof itself. I'm thinking generic rails on the sides, brackets/crossbars set up where needed; not a pre-made roof rack solution that (like you said) would require cutting here and there to make things work.
Thinking about it, I think one could even make that work with the need to have the base of the actuator a ways lower than the panels to make things function properly...
@@scottweikert5189 Hey Scott, have you started on your system yet? I'm thinking about doing the same thing and I'm interested in any other ideas for setting up such a system.
@@pittarak1 (it's me) No, I have not yet started. When I first posted I didn't even have a van. Now I do! But I'm still in the fix-up stage. I do plan to mount my solar on the roof using a roof rack system of some sort, but I think to start, I'll stick with the simple solution of flat-mounting my panels, just to move the build along. I will, however, set up the mounts in a way that I could go back and modify them with an actuator, should I find I need that extra efficiency.
finally, I find the automatic tracking system to control the solar panel!! thank you!
Love the vlog thanks, looking forward to seeing more as i would love to try this thankyou, 👍👍🚙
Really interesting video. Would be great to see a further videos on your build.
This is very cool. I hope it lasts a long time for you. We have a solar system we will be installing this year and we've talked about having something like this or something similar. 😊 New friends here. We look forward to seeing more of your videos. (Emilie and Tito)
Cool, let me know if you need any help.👍🏻
Hi brilliant idea word of advice, block this aluminium sections front and back because they will make whistling noise while driving.
Good tip thanks
“Block” lol I think you mean deflect the wind……
Nice Solartracker.
Is there a latch or something to secure the non-hinged side when the panels are stowed while driving? Or is the linear actuator strong enough to hold the panels snug in the stowed position?
In America we have the element Aluminum. In the UK, they use the rare isotope Aluminium 😁.
Hey, is the language called English - or american? I rest my case....
Can I rig a handcrank angled array. That extends to 185 degrees. With gas charged pistons sliding inside side to side roof tracks? Becoming an awning over the side doors? Supported with 3 - 5 telescoping poles. With a deck you can sit on underneath, now facing up? And another deck on the van roof with additional panels on top of a 30cm tall case covering the entire roof? With ducts for fans and AC in the case. With storage between the ducts for surfboards, kayacks, or even a waterfoil board? With panels being cleaned from the ground? And air/watertight lids with solar panels in them on top of the case/vandeck? Or adjacent to them. Bringing it to 1 - 2 kilowatts? Say for 5 - 8 grand? And a 6mo to 1yr project? Or is this a hairbrained scheme?
It's a lot more storage, deck space, and enough solar wattage to top off an electric motor, or hybrid motor, if you installed one in 10 years or so. The array needs to be light. And reinforced with more aluminum framing to support multiple people. Say 5 - 8cm thick. But hand gear crank and 2 - 3 pistons support it. The sit on deck underneath the array is optional (sketchy). But not on top of the framed out vancase.
Yes but this is mad scientist level of work
Standard Silicon is water based and breads down in wet conditions.. Use 100% rubber Silicon and it will never leak and it acts like a super bonding glue..
That, and using rubber oversized washers on each side of the sheet metal along with large stainless steel washers to clamp it all flat would be a durable option that won’t crack like sealant will over time.
Watching this in April 2021. Thanks for posting - most helpful. Just a couple of questions: 1. Would you locate the control box just inside the van under cover out of the weather or are you finding it being easier to use where it is? If you moved it, I know that you'd then have to run 2 wires (power for the actuator and also the sensor) from the control box through the roof via a solar entry gland. Your thoughts? Thanks again.
The control box is waterproof, just the screws that came with it are not stainless which is a bit annoying, but I've put silicon over them now.
Is useful to have the box outside as I can easily watch the panels and their position as manually operating them with the remote.
I have already run 12v out through an entry gland, it then splits to the actuator and control box.
Running power to the control box inside the van wouldn't be an issue either.
You could have the control box inside, it doesn't really make much of a difference.
the system is nice but your build could be much better , the controller should be build in the van , I do understand the heights in case you take a surfboard with you you should get some kaps for those aluminum bars to cover up and keep it clean inside those tubes, did you get them secured wen they down in case of driving ? also use RVS bolts and washing rings better against rust ;-) but weldone mate !
a small type for anyone : for the bolts and wonder metal stuff by a spray can with plastic spray , spray bolts and other metal stuff with it , it will not rust at all
How are you grounding your panels, through the frame? If so, I'd be worried about trying to pass ground through a galvanic rust hinge connection.. Mine call for a dedicated ground lug, and I can also get cord tamers that snap into the back of the panels...
Their on a van on four rubber wheels, there is no 'ground'.
The positive and negative just go back to the charge controller.
It's a 'floating' system like any vehicle.
I'd only consider 'grounding' the aluminium frames to the vehicle chassis if the system was running at over 50v DC.
hello, superb video, could you tell me the dimensions of the small solar panels you use and the Angle you set for sun detection? thanks in advance JP
Do you have to have these tall aluminum legs at the end? I want as tight a fitting as possible.
Good film, Informative
Regards Martin
Hi, thanks for your comment. Yes and no, is the answer i'm afraid, have a look at my responses to Scott Weikert below.
Hi can you update the solar tracking link? it's "page not found"
Awesome video!
This Ethan from Australia - I want to do something similar to my Toyota Prado mounted on rhino roof rack - without drilling holes into my car. That said I love your setup. The web link on your bio is broken - any chance you could provide name and model number of the controller unit? Also is the controller unit GPS auto controlled or purely with solar sensors? Many thanks!
Thanks, they don't sell the tracker I have anymore. Just search 'sigle axis solar tracker' on AliExpress and you'll find better systems.
Something like this : a.aliexpress.com/_m01MH3K
Is there any lock while you're driving down the road on the side that elevates? Or does it just rest on those glued blocks with the actuator holding it down?
The holding force of the actuator is more than enough, however I have since added 2 stainless steel clasp latches, can't be too safe!
Hi, do you have a link to the linear motor or the specs please? I have just upgraded to lifepo4 and I need every single watt possible now.
HI , do you think the actuator is waterproof enough ? Does it have an IP rating ?
Hi, yes the actuator is IP65 rated. However I believe the orientation is important, you'll see I have the extending screw end mounted to the roof of the van. This should stop water dripping down and possibly into the lead screw overtime.
Cool stuff, where did you get the controller.?
Hi , This is a great project that Id like to do on my own van . Do you know where i can get the remote kit with solar sensor and control box from and also a good source in the UK for a DC 12V actuator?
AliExpress
Here is a similar but better version of what I've got!
a.aliexpress.com/_m01MH3K
Nice...Did you have any issues with the actuator binding?
Nope, no issues.
Great system. Do you have link for the actuator used?
It's on Alibaba. Search for 12v Single-axis solar automatic tracking controller. Current cost with delivery around £85 - that kit is with a wind speed retractor.
Here is a link to the manufacturer of the tracking system: www.eco-worthy.com/collections/solar-tracking-kit/products/dual-axis-solar-tracker-controller-with-remote-control?variant=37733871550652
@@CosmicSeeker69 thanks Graham, much appreciated.
Those nuts inside may rip out the car sheet metal. You need bigger washers or thin metal plates as backing so that the bolt will not shear the car sheet metal. Car sheet metal is not strong. The wind force on the panels will be huge when you are driving down the road. The whole idea is brilliant. I just think you need to get those inside nuts fixed.
Thanks, but I disagree, the force translated to each individual bolt would be minimal. The force required to laterally sheer the metal across 10, tensioned points of contact (10large bolts) would be extraordinary. In my opinion there would be no possibility of wind force acting on the panels being able to impart anywhere near the required force.
The entire thing is very over engineered.
Hi, what's the name and link for the solar panel orientation sensor? Please
I can't find the exact one anymore. Here is a link for a similar one, except it's dual-axis, you could probably modify it/program it for single axis. www.eco-worthy.com/products/dual-axis-solar-tracker-controller-with-remote-control
@@thewanderingwarner5403 thank you very much
@@yingli8028 there's a guy in Israel that makes a range of these solar trackers. Sorry that I don't have his details but he's on eBay. I paid £14 for mine but I will need to add a capsule to it or make one. On top of that you will need the remote control unit. Or on Alibaba this unit is available with a windspeed retractor in the kit. I hope this helps you.
Get caught out with strong wind once and theyll be ripped off the van
They have been in near hurricane force and have been driven down the motorway at full speed for hours with high winds.
They have not budged.
Again, like others, you are misunderstanding the engineering. They've actually been signed off after an qualified engineer inspection of the van.