I can't say thanks enough for all which you share with us. I stumbled across your videos this morning. I've been a painter for 25+ and always wondered why certain types of repairs that I was doing were taken place in the beginning. The next job I'll be watching over the contractor more closely! You are great with what you do and please continue to provide us with your videos!
If you do a significant amount of hanging, I suggest a collated screw gun. I have the newest battery powered Senco gun and love it. No fumbling with screws and three-times as fast; it'll shoot 1/8" to 2" screws. The strips of screws are a little more expensive than a box of drywall screws, but well worth it.
I just bought that same screw gun for a home remodel job. I like it, but I really don't understand the reason for the adjustable depth setting. I mean if it is permanently set from the factory for the proper screw setting depth, why would the user every need to have a different depth. Don't you always want the screw at a "standard" correct depth anyway? Thanks.
What about a project where part of a board is exposed down to the original paper/surface but the rest of the board still has the top coating, primer and paint on it but needs some new screws installed to correct pops/dimples? A homeowner ran screws in too deep (dimples) or not deep enough (pops) in the field of the board. This allowed the board to sag in the field and eventually at part of a seam causing the joint/tape to crack. Getting the old tape off at the joint and installing new screws I will need one depth of screw setting (such as the bit attachment used on the cordless drill), but for the screws out in the field with the extra thickness of topping and paint coats maybe I will need a different (deeper) setting? I've never used a screw gun before, but maybe I'll be giving it a try if I need an adjustable depth...I'm a relative newbie at this; I'd be interested in your and/or Mitch's thoughts on this scenario.
In the past hangers have nailed the borders because it was easier and then got their screw gun going and went through and screwed all the fields. I still see this in some cases but cordless screw guns do make it easier to just use screws everywhere.
I was looking for a video like this. I screw everything, I hate nails I feel they are outdated, less effective and offer no benefit other than speed when using a nail gun. So I finished my basement myself but initially had the house built to my design and never thought to make them use screws in my sheet rock until it was too late. The home builder was telling me, "you're probably going to have some nail pops, we come back and warranty them for a year" which raised the question with me, if you know they are prone to popping, and they really don't save any time why are we still using 1950s hanging techniques when you know you will have to come warranty the pops. Not to mention they don't all pop in a year so the rest are my problem. It just seems senseless to use fasteners that are far more likely to cause problems later, especially when there is no real time saving when you still have to hammer them in. So long story short your video confirmed my theory that there really is no reason to use nails, so my basement being screwed everywhere is fine. Thank you.
Nails and screws both "pop". People often refer to screw pops or nail pops as nail pops. In the edges of a board and at angles, due to the angle of the screws required, it is debaitable which will have a stronger hold, assuming ring shank nails were used.
I can't say thanks enough for all which you share with us. I stumbled across your videos this morning. I've been a painter for 25+ and always wondered why certain types of repairs that I was doing were taken place in the beginning. The next job I'll be watching over the contractor more closely! You are great with what you do and please continue to provide us with your videos!
You're very welcome! Thanks for your input and if you haven't yet, check out Drywallinstruction.com!
If you do a significant amount of hanging, I suggest a collated screw gun. I have the newest battery powered Senco gun and love it. No fumbling with screws and three-times as fast; it'll shoot 1/8" to 2" screws. The strips of screws are a little more expensive than a box of drywall screws, but well worth it.
Why u using drywall and regular mud in a shower?
For that small wall that looks to be fairly small wouldn't it be easier to use one sheet vertically?
You should definitely hang a sheet vertically whenever possible. I put it up that way to use for the demonstration.
I just bought that same screw gun for a home remodel job. I like it, but I really don't understand the reason for the adjustable depth setting. I mean if it is permanently set from the factory for the proper screw setting depth, why would the user every need to have a different depth. Don't you always want the screw at a "standard" correct depth anyway? Thanks.
You pose a great question. The only answer I have is if screw tips vary at all.
What about a project where part of a board is exposed down to the original paper/surface but the rest of the board still has the top coating, primer and paint on it but needs some new screws installed to correct pops/dimples? A homeowner ran screws in too deep (dimples) or not deep enough (pops) in the field of the board. This allowed the board to sag in the field and eventually at part of a seam causing the joint/tape to crack. Getting the old tape off at the joint and installing new screws I will need one depth of screw setting (such as the bit attachment used on the cordless drill), but for the screws out in the field with the extra thickness of topping and paint coats maybe I will need a different (deeper) setting? I've never used a screw gun before, but maybe I'll be giving it a try if I need an adjustable depth...I'm a relative newbie at this; I'd be interested in your and/or Mitch's thoughts on this scenario.
CenterTree777 sometimes the screws pop out if the insulation is to far out of the studs
You never explained why you would use nails on the perimeter and screws in the field. Without a good reason this seems costly to switch
In the past hangers have nailed the borders because it was easier and then got their screw gun going and went through and screwed all the fields. I still see this in some cases but cordless screw guns do make it easier to just use screws everywhere.
I was looking for a video like this. I screw everything, I hate nails I feel they are outdated, less effective and offer no benefit other than speed when using a nail gun. So I finished my basement myself but initially had the house built to my design and never thought to make them use screws in my sheet rock until it was too late. The home builder was telling me, "you're probably going to have some nail pops, we come back and warranty them for a year" which raised the question with me, if you know they are prone to popping, and they really don't save any time why are we still using 1950s hanging techniques when you know you will have to come warranty the pops. Not to mention they don't all pop in a year so the rest are my problem. It just seems senseless to use fasteners that are far more likely to cause problems later, especially when there is no real time saving when you still have to hammer them in. So long story short your video confirmed my theory that there really is no reason to use nails, so my basement being screwed everywhere is fine. Thank you.
Nails and screws both "pop". People often refer to screw pops or nail pops as nail pops. In the edges of a board and at angles, due to the angle of the screws required, it is debaitable which will have a stronger hold, assuming ring shank nails were used.
Somebody was drinking.