Four years after you posted this video on my exact sewing machine model and exact problem, (when you are probably out happily playing golf or grilling burgers), I watched your patient demonstration, and fixed my foot controller in five minutes. I love having my 54-year-old Singer working beautifully again. The first garment I had sewed in 1968 was my wedding gown, and I still love my machine and my hubby! Thank you so much, Andy!
Surely welcome! I'm glad you found my channel and happy you have enough room in your heart for your Singer and wonderful husband. ( he lives under a lucky star I'd say ✨) Two excellent choices. 👍 I appreciate the smile you gave me today.
Yay! After watching this video series, I was able to fix and adjust my foot controller. It used to go slow...slow...slow...FAST but now I have a full range of speeds. Really appreciated your thorough explanation of things to watch out for to be sure the controller is safe and functional. This video saved me from having to replace an otherwise clean and functional clamshell controller. Thanks Andy!
Congratulations. You did it! Now you know all about it and can repair & maintain a Singer Clamshell Foot Controller. Thanks for saving it from the landfill. It will last many, many more years.
Thanks so much for demonstrating this. I recently bought an old Singer 237 like Mom used to have and the pedal went from 0 to 60 with no slow/middle speed. Took it apart to find someone had seemingly raided it for parts (although the rubber bottom was still intact): missing one large spring and the little V-shaped tensioner clip next to the ceramic. I cleaned up the carbon discs (a dozen almost black and half had noticeable carbon, none were broken except for one fragment with no matching piece), reassembled and tightened the right-side adjustment screw to accomodate for the missing clip. Works great now, I can go slow, fast, and everything in between!
You can believe I love comments like this. Justification for the time I spent. Thanks for keeping that great machine in service. You maybe saw the 20+ video Playlist for Stella, Model 237? ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h Maintenance and repair tension, lubrication, motor belt, etc. Thanks again for the nice comment.
Just repaired the peddle on my wife's sewing machine. This whole series was just what I needed to get the job done without screwing up. Thanks so much for the videos! My wife thanks you as well.
Just enjoyed once again one of your videos witch you can tell are made with love,and things that are made that way are the best ones.Thank you very much for all your effort over the years to make all those videos for free(no advertising )that shows that you are not only a very knowledgable person but also a great man.I was sad to find out the other day that you are experiencing some health problems,I wish you all the best and may Almighty God be with you and help you.
Your sincerity and kindness have made my evening and I appreciate your prayer for me. This time of evening, with the night ahead, is uncomfortable for me and your comment is like a long-lasting bright candle in my room. 🙏
@@andytubesewing1953 Yes indeed, It is a good reference to bookmark, but you are SO DETAILED with your camera shots, and your explanations, and I do watched every bit of it very intently, I think it's burnt into my brain.. I can still see all of it in my mind,, BUT being "vintage" myself, I'm not sure how long it will stay there..! HAHAHA...! .. I've always enjoyed doing mechanical things, but I've only been tinkering with sewing machines for a couple years.. you are such a good teacher.!! Thank you so much for helping me with my new hobby,. I have lots more videos to watch.
That was awesome! You went from a controller that didn't even work to one with all that range of speed! Only thing about this part for me is the number of times possibly needed to plug and unplug. I might need supervision so I don't electrocute myself! I guess that's part of working with electricity, you do risk getting complacent and - zap!
Thanks. Yes, zaps do happen. To be honest I don't even unplug anymore. I just avoid touching the metal parts of the controller and screwdriver. It saves a little time. I also adjust more aggressively than 1/2 or 1/4 turns. In the video I try to show safe and conservative methods so RUclips won't block my videos or something.
Hi Andy, I've a clamshell footpedal with the same problem but it's the one where you pop out 2 pins left and right to release. This model which is off a 7105 doesn't appear to have the adjustment scew as yours does. How can I regulate the speed from slow to fast on my model please? Thank you for any advice you can give. This was gifted to me and trying to save yet another lovely old machine.
Yours was made around 1984/1985 long after the models I have worked on. I have never seen one inside that is as you describe. Sorry. but without having it on my bench I could not advise about adjusting, ☹
Thank you for these in-depth detailed repair videos! I love learning how things are built and fixing them myself when possible. I've recently inherited my mom's old sewing machine and would like to get it back to seamless working condition:) The clam shell foot pedal is part #619494-001 and looks slightly different inside in terms of the wiring. I can't seem to find any instructions or manuals on how my particular model's wiring should look like. There's one end of the wire attached to the actuating spring and the other seems to be soldered to a metal plate that's b/w the carbon housing cylinder and the spacers. I dunno if u can visualize that but I can't think of easier way to explain this verbally haha the foot pedal does work when plugged in it just goes from nothing to 100% which is why I'm here. Anyway if u have any insight or where I can find a manual for this part I'd be so grateful 🙏🏼 thanks again and take care!
I have seen some different parts on newer clamshell pedals. I've never seen manuals or wiring diagrams for them. You do not state what model number of the Singer machine you have. That would be helpful perhaps. You can easily post a video to your Prow S RUclips channel that we could watch and explain and show what you have found. If you can't figure that out you can email andymanuals53@gmail.com and I'll take a look at it that way. If your pedal runs the motor as soon as you plug it in it sounds like you have a capacitor in the pedal. Those are antiquated now but were used to prevent interference with TV/Radio at times in the past. When the capacitor fails it usually fails closed meaning it just lets the power (full power) go right thru it to the motor. I've always just removed any capacitors I've found in vintage Singer Machines.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you for getting back to me! It's a singer 411G. There is no capacitor. The motor needs the pedal to be pressed in order to work but I have to fully compress it to get anything out of it. It's at full speed ahead when I do that. Nothing in between. I will try to figure out uploading a vid if not I'll send ya an email. Thank you for your help!
@@S4R4H2 OK, got it now. I misunderstood your original comment, sorry. It is VERY normal for these types of carbon stack resistors to get carbon deposits to build up and for the pedal compression movement to get out of adjustment over the years (60+) That is why I remove the carbon discs from the ceramic holder and clean and polish them and make the adjustments to the amount of travel of the upper pedal. When the disc or the travel is out of adjustment you have no speed control and only at the very end of travel do the carbons get compressed enough for electric flow and then it is full flow or all-out speed. The way the wires are connected doesn't seem that important to me really. All the German-made slant needles are different from the American ones and not surprising if some parts are different. I only know to clean the carbons, clean all the metal-to-metal contact points and adjust the contact travel. I've done about 50 of these between the clamshell and button style and that worked on all of them.
Also, around 19:30 you mention putting a switch on these old controllers to reduce current leaking into the motor. Wouldn't that be a good idea for all these old machines? I got a foot pedal recently I had to restore and when I plugged it in, I could hear the motor "humming" and was able to adjust things so there was no hum. But I wonder it it wouldn't be a good precaution to just put an inline switch in the cord.
Sure, and some of my customers do just that. Even the cheapest inline switch is rated at 2AMP and most sewing machines (domestic) are less than that. Switches can be found at any hardware store. Many of my customers do not want to cut the original vintage cords, so the just buy a 4-foot extension cord with an on/off switch and plug towards the end. All of our machines are in cabinets that have an electrical outlet right on the cabinet, and we prefer to just reach over and unplug the cord. Daffycat gave us a good tip to just leave the light switch turned on as a reminder to unplug. If the light is still on the machine is plugged in. Thanks for watching my channel.
Hi again Andy. My 413 is running smooth and sews well now, thanks to you. Do you have any specific suggestions on how to improve the low-speed control? i.e. a more gradual ramp-up of speed as the foot pedal is pressed? It has one of these clamshell pedals. I cleaned the contacts on everything but the speed still comes on too fast.
You saw some adjustments in this video. If they do not help with speed control you can replace the entire pedal with a modern Electronic version and keep your vintage cords. I've used about 20 of them and they do have superior speed control and never get hot. Customers were always pleased with the results. You can go as slow as 1 needle stroke per second if needed. This is the model I used: www.ebay.com/itm/231883233121?itmmeta=01HT5P4HW335Q5ARTGJ1A516G9&hash=item35fd515761:g:GTsAAOSw7zVlA0ES There are a few more sellers you can find if you think this is a good solution for you. Maybe they have a better price? You can also find some who sell it with new cords already installed. I always used the old cords b/c they are color-matched to the machine and often higher quality than newly made modern cords. Please keep in mind that it is an electronic device and should be used with a surge protector to prevent any problems.
@@andytubesewing1953 Yes, I did the adjustments shown here, and can get it somewhat smooth. But at that setting, there is current across the discs when sitting idle and they get hot sitting there doing nothing. Which is not good! I'll look into an electronic control, 1 stroke per second would be great. Thanks for the suggestion. What is the current rating of the motor? The clamshelll is rated 0.7A, is the motor that low?
@@JohnBau I think the 4113 has an SNK motor and it is somewhere between 0.6 and 0.8. maybe at the most when it peaks. I know the slant motors are 0.7 and peak at 1.0 for a second or two. The one I linked you to works very well and there's some others. You can also buy new carbon resistor type foot pedals if you want but I figure if I was spending money on a new I wanted that electronic one. They don't even get warm after running and you can really control the speed
@@andytubesewing1953 So I decided to loosen all the adjustment screws inside and start over, and got a better outcome this time. The carbon stack ceramic has some 'play' in it so I biased it to the left to start. It's now acceptable at low speed, though still a bit erratic, and doesn't make heat when off. One advantage for the stock clamshell is, the knee lever in the cabinet is made to hold it... Thanks again for your help! 👍 This is good enough for now. And the machine does sew well. I admit to being partial to rotary-bobbin types.
@@JohnBau I'm happy about your good results. Yes, the Clamshell style and Button style of Singer foot controllers are the only two styles I know of that fit with the knee lever bracket of Singer cabinets. I've never found an electronic controller that could be used in the knee lever bracket. Before I got so ill I was investigating how to install electronic parts into those two Singer foot controllers using a modified spring system after removing the carbon stacks. Unfortunately, I never got back to it. If folks have the room for a cabinet I highly recommend one with that knee lever. Happy sewing, John.
Have a sewing machine that is wired direct.you plug it in, and the machine just takes off without engaging the foot pedal. What do I need to do to fix it?
Hi Andy, what is the part number of the old button style food pedal that has the same carbon discs that fit the clamshell carbon stack, Do you know where one can be purchased. Thank again
I have had a few different models of the button style controller that have had slightly different ceramic housings for the discs, and some had slightly different size carbons discs (mostly thinner) so I could not really point you accurately to a certain one. A used vintage controller can be found on eBay and Bonanza. You can also find new controllers that use carbon stacks or piles if you are interested in that. You can also buy a new electronic pedal and use your vintage cord in it and forget about the carbons altogether. shop.sew-classic.com/Foot-Control-Electronic-2-Wire-Type-UL-12-amp-SCE168FC.htm If I read your question correctly you are looking for carbon discs to use in a clamshell-style controller? You can buy a brand new ceramic tube with new carbons and either take the carbons from it or replace the whole ceramic unit. I just bought a couple last month and I see they are on sale today. I found doing this was the cheapest cost for carbons b/c the used pedals have really increased in price. Here is the carbon unit I'm talking about (seller is reputable): www.sewingpartsonline.com/carbon-resistance-unit-singer-618804-003.aspx The carbons inside are about twice as thick as the Singer carbons. On one clamshell controller that I used this new unit on I had to slightly shorten one end of the unit to make it fit properly in the controller. (File down the ceramic a tiny bit) Hope this answers your question and good luck.
My copper spring plate that runs through the middle (sorry, idk the actual part name) is fractured in the middle. I've tried repairing it with solder, but I'm just not what this clam shell needs. Is there a place I can purchase just the spring plate, or is a full replacement pedal is needed? I have a Merrit 2404.
Ouch! No one makes parts like this. Solder was a good idea, but you' have to make take a piece of copper and overlay the break and then it's probably too thick to adjust properly. You can find used controllers for sale on eBay/Amazon, etc. but I would not buy a used vintage one. It could be just a bad inside. I would buy an electronic controller and transfer my old cord to it, or buy it with the correct cords for your model. Electronic pedals do not have the carbon stack to worry about and they don't get hot; maybe barely warm, but need a surge protector, IMO. Here is a couple that say they work with your machine: www.amazon.com/Generic-Singer-Machine-Control-979314-031/dp/B008MM5CG0 and www.sewingpartsonline.com/foot-control-and-cord-singer-979314-031.aspx They are all made in China and you don't know the quality until you get it, so buyer beware.
Hi Andy! Mine is for a Touch & Sew 635. It doesn't have the screw on the right end to adjust. The left side has a black plug attached to the actuator spring with one of those washers. The black plug is what contacts the left end of the resistance tub. It is quite worn down. Do you know if I can get a new black carbon plug from somewhere? There is little to no play in the L-bracket that the right end of the resistance tube contacts. I would have to drill out the hole in it to turn it into a slot so that I could slide it to the left. Any ideas?
Update: I moved that L bracket as far over as I could (maybe 1 mm if that!), cleaned it up just a bit, and it's working great! Thanks! I'd still like to know if there's a what to get that left black plug piece that's connected to the left side of the actuator spring.
@@neonangus Glad you worked it out. If you want to keep that controller in the future you may want to invest in a replacement carbon unit while they are still available. It's the whole carbon tube. I do not know anyone selling just the end plug. Here is what I am talking about: store.tandtrepair.com/618804003.html?viewfullsite=1 That would give you an entire carbon stack as spares also. Terry will give you 20% off everything you buy before 8/1/2020 if you use coupon code andy-h-yt. People are also replacing the carbon stack style controllers with new electronic controllers that don't get hot and have superior speed control. They buy one and reuse their vintage cords if in good shape. Here are examples: store.tandtrepair.com/coco.html Thee are other sellers of the electronic feet of course, with and without cords. There was one other carbon stack replacement seller but they have been out of stock for quite a while now.
@@andytubesewing1953 It's not actually the end plug of the carbon stack that is worn. It is another plug like thing that is attached to the brass actuator spring with one of those washers like the one that's attached to the bottom that you so carefully pried up. You don't have this on yours. I also can't slide my actuator spring to the right and left. It can only be in one position. I don't have the screw on the right to adjust either. Mine is 618811-007 and seems to have no adjustability! Wish I could post a photo...
@@neonangus Then it is a later version of the clamshell. A shame they cut corners. No parts like that available without just buying a spare pedal. Sorry, I misunderstood and good luck.
I would not do that. The carbons get warm/hot and maybe at a different rate than a metal washer. I'd be worried about an imbalance and fire. If only up to about 4 carbons are removed I can usually adjust the unit to still function normally. If so many are removed I replace the carbons or replace the whole foot controller. Here are options; there is a seller of the carbon unit for replacement: www.sewingpartsonline.com/carbon-resistance-unit-singer-618804-003.aspx For a couple of $ less, you can buy a replacement carbon stack controller: www.shop.sew-classic.com/Foot-Control-Black-2-Wire-METAL-SCE507.htm Better yet, IMO, for a couple $ more you can buy an electronic controller that never gets hot or even warm, has zero carbon in it and has incredible speed control: www.shop.sew-classic.com/Foot-Control-Electronic-2-Wire-Type-UL-12-amp-SCE168FC.htm Of course, all these are more expensive than a few washers, but if you burn out the controller, or worse your home, then you really did not save money. Be safe my friend. I see you liked a video of the electronic pedal I mentioned being wired by the owner of Sew-Classic: ruclips.net/video/QNPti0gdm5U/видео.html I installed a dozen of these and they work well. Of course, there are many other controllers for sale also. Good Luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 That makes sense regarding washers, thanks... I did manage to clean and adjust the original pedal but given it's nature and design, a new electronic one seems to be the way to go. also a new non-elastic belt.. i'm trying to apply the "andy-h-yt" CODE but it doesn't go thru.. Thanks for your reply.
I think you'll like an electronic pedal. The andy-h-yt code is provided by Terry, the owner of this store: store.tandtrepair.com/ It isn't for use anywhere else. Terry is the only seller who offers Andy Tube viewers a discount. I wish others would, but no luck so far.
I'm sorry but I do not know of anyone selling just that part by itself. It is rare to see one of these clamshell controllers being sold part-by-part but usually only the whole controller for sale on places like eBay. Because it screws into the shorting clip you may be able to find a similar screw at the hardware store that you can use. Maybe a headless self-tapping metal screw that would make its own threading as you screw it in.
@@BFMMFB Yes, very hard to find carbons at this time. I used to buy this one but it has been out of stock for months www.sewingpartsonline.com/carbon-resistance-unit-singer-618804-003.aspx It can be cheaper to buy a new carbon resistor pedal and transfer your old cords into it, especially if you can wait for a shipment from China directly. www.ebay.com/itm/10A-Sewing-Machine-Foot-Control-Replace-Pedal-For-ELNA-KENMORE-VIKING-SINGER/302469510529?epid=2268428275&hash=item466c967581:g:MqQAAOSwuLFZzHEh that is a cheap plastic pedal, but there are many others. You can also buy an electronic pedal with or without the cords for your model and skip the carbon resistors. Because of the COVID virus prices are up and supplies are down. Good Luck and take care.👍
You can buy a $5 guide written by an expert repairman that covers that info. Use coupon code andy-h-yt for %20 off: store.tandtrepair.com/controlcsg.html
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks again, I am going to buy the instruction and try it. FYI I bought a new carbon unit and installed it thinking I do not have to do any ajustment, unfortunatly the problem did not change
Covered in this video: ruclips.net/video/R4JuQ3o9dB0/видео.html This is the only seller I know of www.sewingpartsonline.com/carbon-resistance-unit-singer-618804-003.aspx Inside that tube are the round carbon discs. Half as many, but twice as thick. Remove from the tube and replace in the button style controller. When I replaced the tube in a clamshell it was a very tight fit, so the others I have done I just used the new carbon parts in the old tube. Good Luck and thanks for watching.
Four years after you posted this video on my exact sewing machine model and exact problem, (when you are probably out happily playing golf or grilling burgers), I watched your patient demonstration, and fixed my foot controller in five minutes. I love having my 54-year-old Singer working beautifully again. The first garment I had sewed in 1968 was my wedding gown, and I still love my machine and my hubby! Thank you so much, Andy!
Surely welcome! I'm glad you found my channel and happy you have enough room in your heart for your Singer and wonderful husband. ( he lives under a lucky star I'd say ✨) Two excellent choices. 👍 I appreciate the smile you gave me today.
I'm working on a Bernina 125 and couldn't figure out how to adjust the motor speed. Thank you, that was very helpful information!
Welcome, and it's good to know it helped a Bernina owner.
Yay! After watching this video series, I was able to fix and adjust my foot controller. It used to go slow...slow...slow...FAST but now I have a full range of speeds. Really appreciated your thorough explanation of things to watch out for to be sure the controller is safe and functional. This video saved me from having to replace an otherwise clean and functional clamshell controller. Thanks Andy!
Congratulations. You did it! Now you know all about it and can repair & maintain a Singer Clamshell Foot Controller. Thanks for saving it from the landfill. It will last many, many more years.
Can’t believe it! After watching this I managed to repair my 1952 Singer clam pedal!!!!!!! Wow!!! Thanks a million Andy!!!
Great job, Mike. Thanks for commenting, and for keeping your vintage Singer Machine running.
Thanks so much for demonstrating this. I recently bought an old Singer 237 like Mom used to have and the pedal went from 0 to 60 with no slow/middle speed. Took it apart to find someone had seemingly raided it for parts (although the rubber bottom was still intact): missing one large spring and the little V-shaped tensioner clip next to the ceramic. I cleaned up the carbon discs (a dozen almost black and half had noticeable carbon, none were broken except for one fragment with no matching piece), reassembled and tightened the right-side adjustment screw to accomodate for the missing clip. Works great now, I can go slow, fast, and everything in between!
You can believe I love comments like this. Justification for the time I spent. Thanks for keeping that great machine in service.
You maybe saw the 20+ video Playlist for Stella, Model 237? ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKzvgm_CYPFnDeM8ZqTTo1h Maintenance and repair tension, lubrication, motor belt, etc.
Thanks again for the nice comment.
Just repaired the peddle on my wife's sewing machine. This whole series was just what I needed to get the job done without screwing up. Thanks so much for the videos! My wife thanks you as well.
Thanks for saving that pedal, Tom. I'm glad you found my videos for it. Happy wife = happy life 💕
Thank you Andy, I've just followed your video and successfully restored my controller. You're a 🌟
I sure love getting a comment like this! Thank you 🙏
Just enjoyed once again one of your videos witch you can tell are made with love,and things that are made that way are the best ones.Thank you very much for all your effort over the years to make all those videos for free(no advertising )that shows that you are not only a very knowledgable person but also a great man.I was sad to find out the other day that you are experiencing some health problems,I wish you all the best and may Almighty God be with you and help you.
Your sincerity and kindness have made my evening and I appreciate your prayer for me. This time of evening, with the night ahead, is uncomfortable for me and your comment is like a long-lasting bright candle in my room. 🙏
I wish you could hear me applaud! Such incredibly clear videos. Thank you so very much!
Just reading your nice comment is all the applause I need. I'm glad you found my channel and thanks for watching. Take Care.
Fantastic! Turned my foot controller from an on off switch to a usable device again. My fingers thank you greatly!
Nicely Done! Thanks for letting me know. Stop by again sometime.
Great series.. I have a clam shell on my 237.. it seems to work OK for now. but this video was awesome, and I learned a lot.!! Thank you so much.!!
It's a good reference to bookmark. Thank you.
@@andytubesewing1953 Yes indeed, It is a good reference to bookmark, but you are SO DETAILED with your camera shots, and your explanations, and I do watched every bit of it very intently, I think it's burnt into my brain.. I can still see all of it in my mind,, BUT being "vintage" myself, I'm not sure how long it will stay there..! HAHAHA...! .. I've always enjoyed doing mechanical things, but I've only been tinkering with sewing machines for a couple years.. you are such a good teacher.!! Thank you so much for helping me with my new hobby,. I have lots more videos to watch.
Great job !! Very clear and usefull information. Daniel from Belgium.
Thanks for watching my channel, Daniel. I appreciate you taking the time to comment. Take care.
This was very helpful. Especially knowing I can get carbons. Thanks so much Andy for your help.
I'm glad you found it helpful. Thanks for letting me know.
That was awesome! You went from a controller that didn't even work to one with all that range of speed!
Only thing about this part for me is the number of times possibly needed to plug and unplug. I might need supervision so I don't electrocute myself! I guess that's part of working with electricity, you do risk getting complacent and - zap!
Thanks. Yes, zaps do happen. To be honest I don't even unplug anymore. I just avoid touching the metal parts of the controller and screwdriver. It saves a little time. I also adjust more aggressively than 1/2 or 1/4 turns. In the video I try to show safe and conservative methods so RUclips won't block my videos or something.
Thanks Andy!!! works like a charm.
Welcome! Glad you found the video. Happy sewing.
Hi Andy, I've a clamshell footpedal with the same problem but it's the one where you pop out 2 pins left and right to release. This model which is off a 7105 doesn't appear to have the adjustment scew as yours does. How can I regulate the speed from slow to fast on my model please? Thank you for any advice you can give. This was gifted to me and trying to save yet another lovely old machine.
Yours was made around 1984/1985 long after the models I have worked on. I have never seen one inside that is as you describe. Sorry. but without having it on my bench I could not advise about adjusting, ☹
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you Andy I appreciate the reply. No worries.
🤗👍
Thanks for watching my channel.
Thank you for these in-depth detailed repair videos! I love learning how things are built and fixing them myself when possible.
I've recently inherited my mom's old sewing machine and would like to get it back to seamless working condition:)
The clam shell foot pedal is part #619494-001 and looks slightly different inside in terms of the wiring. I can't seem to find any instructions or manuals on how my particular model's wiring should look like. There's one end of the wire attached to the actuating spring and the other seems to be soldered to a metal plate that's b/w the carbon housing cylinder and the spacers. I dunno if u can visualize that but I can't think of easier way to explain this verbally haha
the foot pedal does work when plugged in it just goes from nothing to 100% which is why I'm here.
Anyway if u have any insight or where I can find a manual for this part I'd be so grateful 🙏🏼 thanks again and take care!
I have seen some different parts on newer clamshell pedals. I've never seen manuals or wiring diagrams for them. You do not state what model number of the Singer machine you have. That would be helpful perhaps. You can easily post a video to your Prow S RUclips channel that we could watch and explain and show what you have found. If you can't figure that out you can email andymanuals53@gmail.com and I'll take a look at it that way. If your pedal runs the motor as soon as you plug it in it sounds like you have a capacitor in the pedal. Those are antiquated now but were used to prevent interference with TV/Radio at times in the past. When the capacitor fails it usually fails closed meaning it just lets the power (full power) go right thru it to the motor. I've always just removed any capacitors I've found in vintage Singer Machines.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you for getting back to me!
It's a singer 411G. There is no capacitor. The motor needs the pedal to be pressed in order to work but I have to fully compress it to get anything out of it. It's at full speed ahead when I do that. Nothing in between.
I will try to figure out uploading a vid if not I'll send ya an email. Thank you for your help!
@@S4R4H2 OK, got it now. I misunderstood your original comment, sorry. It is VERY normal for these types of carbon stack resistors to get carbon deposits to build up and for the pedal compression movement to get out of adjustment over the years (60+) That is why I remove the carbon discs from the ceramic holder and clean and polish them and make the adjustments to the amount of travel of the upper pedal. When the disc or the travel is out of adjustment you have no speed control and only at the very end of travel do the carbons get compressed enough for electric flow and then it is full flow or all-out speed. The way the wires are connected doesn't seem that important to me really. All the German-made slant needles are different from the American ones and not surprising if some parts are different. I only know to clean the carbons, clean all the metal-to-metal contact points and adjust the contact travel. I've done about 50 of these between the clamshell and button style and that worked on all of them.
Also, around 19:30 you mention putting a switch on these old controllers to reduce current leaking into the motor. Wouldn't that be a good idea for all these old machines? I got a foot pedal recently I had to restore and when I plugged it in, I could hear the motor "humming" and was able to adjust things so there was no hum. But I wonder it it wouldn't be a good precaution to just put an inline switch in the cord.
Sure, and some of my customers do just that. Even the cheapest inline switch is rated at 2AMP and most sewing machines (domestic) are less than that. Switches can be found at any hardware store. Many of my customers do not want to cut the original vintage cords, so the just buy a 4-foot extension cord with an on/off switch and plug towards the end. All of our machines are in cabinets that have an electrical outlet right on the cabinet, and we prefer to just reach over and unplug the cord. Daffycat gave us a good tip to just leave the light switch turned on as a reminder to unplug. If the light is still on the machine is plugged in. Thanks for watching my channel.
Hi again Andy. My 413 is running smooth and sews well now, thanks to you. Do you have any specific suggestions on how to improve the low-speed control? i.e. a more gradual ramp-up of speed as the foot pedal is pressed? It has one of these clamshell pedals. I cleaned the contacts on everything but the speed still comes on too fast.
You saw some adjustments in this video. If they do not help with speed control you can replace the entire pedal with a modern Electronic version and keep your vintage cords. I've used about 20 of them and they do have superior speed control and never get hot. Customers were always pleased with the results. You can go as slow as 1 needle stroke per second if needed. This is the model I used: www.ebay.com/itm/231883233121?itmmeta=01HT5P4HW335Q5ARTGJ1A516G9&hash=item35fd515761:g:GTsAAOSw7zVlA0ES
There are a few more sellers you can find if you think this is a good solution for you. Maybe they have a better price? You can also find some who sell it with new cords already installed. I always used the old cords b/c they are color-matched to the machine and often higher quality than newly made modern cords. Please keep in mind that it is an electronic device and should be used with a surge protector to prevent any problems.
@@andytubesewing1953 Yes, I did the adjustments shown here, and can get it somewhat smooth. But at that setting, there is current across the discs when sitting idle and they get hot sitting there doing nothing. Which is not good! I'll look into an electronic control, 1 stroke per second would be great. Thanks for the suggestion.
What is the current rating of the motor? The clamshelll is rated 0.7A, is the motor that low?
@@JohnBau I think the 4113 has an SNK motor and it is somewhere between 0.6 and 0.8. maybe at the most when it peaks. I know the slant motors are 0.7 and peak at 1.0 for a second or two. The one I linked you to works very well and there's some others. You can also buy new carbon resistor type foot pedals if you want but I figure if I was spending money on a new I wanted that electronic one. They don't even get warm after running and you can really control the speed
@@andytubesewing1953 So I decided to loosen all the adjustment screws inside and start over, and got a better outcome this time. The carbon stack ceramic has some 'play' in it so I biased it to the left to start. It's now acceptable at low speed, though still a bit erratic, and doesn't make heat when off. One advantage for the stock clamshell is, the knee lever in the cabinet is made to hold it...
Thanks again for your help! 👍 This is good enough for now. And the machine does sew well. I admit to being partial to rotary-bobbin types.
@@JohnBau I'm happy about your good results. Yes, the Clamshell style and Button style of Singer foot controllers are the only two styles I know of that fit with the knee lever bracket of Singer cabinets. I've never found an electronic controller that could be used in the knee lever bracket. Before I got so ill I was investigating how to install electronic parts into those two Singer foot controllers using a modified spring system after removing the carbon stacks. Unfortunately, I never got back to it. If folks have the room for a cabinet I highly recommend one with that knee lever. Happy sewing, John.
Thank you so very much on another restoration video!!!
Hey Rita! Thanks for watching. I had fun getting it working.
Thank you sir for demonstrating how to restore one of these feet, I have to repeat the process for my machine. :)
Welcome Chris. I'm glad you found Andy Tube.
Thanks Andy, Very good video
Welcome and thanks for the comment. Take Care
Have a sewing machine that is wired direct.you plug it in, and the machine just takes off without engaging the foot pedal. What do I need to do to fix it?
"have a sewing machine"... mind telling me the Brand and Model Number?
Andy you are wonderful! Do you have any videos on repairing the newer version of the clamshell controller part #619129-001?
Sorry, I do not. I've never had one. I know they are different but have only seen a couple in pictures that viewers sent. 😢
Andy Tube Thanks, and you have helped me many times in the past and will continue to do so thanks to your great videos.
@@sarahbethmartin9819 You are kind. Thank you.
Hi Andy, what is the part number of the old button style food pedal that has the same carbon discs that fit the clamshell carbon stack, Do you know where one can be purchased. Thank again
I have had a few different models of the button style controller that have had slightly different ceramic housings for the discs, and some had slightly different size carbons discs (mostly thinner) so I could not really point you accurately to a certain one. A used vintage controller can be found on eBay and Bonanza. You can also find new controllers that use carbon stacks or piles if you are interested in that. You can also buy a new electronic pedal and use your vintage cord in it and forget about the carbons altogether. shop.sew-classic.com/Foot-Control-Electronic-2-Wire-Type-UL-12-amp-SCE168FC.htm
If I read your question correctly you are looking for carbon discs to use in a clamshell-style controller? You can buy a brand new ceramic tube with new carbons and either take the carbons from it or replace the whole ceramic unit. I just bought a couple last month and I see they are on sale today. I found doing this was the cheapest cost for carbons b/c the used pedals have really increased in price. Here is the carbon unit I'm talking about (seller is reputable): www.sewingpartsonline.com/carbon-resistance-unit-singer-618804-003.aspx
The carbons inside are about twice as thick as the Singer carbons. On one clamshell controller that I used this new unit on I had to slightly shorten one end of the unit to make it fit properly in the controller. (File down the ceramic a tiny bit) Hope this answers your question and good luck.
My copper spring plate that runs through the middle (sorry, idk the actual part name) is fractured in the middle. I've tried repairing it with solder, but I'm just not what this clam shell needs. Is there a place I can purchase just the spring plate, or is a full replacement pedal is needed? I have a Merrit 2404.
Ouch! No one makes parts like this. Solder was a good idea, but you' have to make take a piece of copper and overlay the break and then it's probably too thick to adjust properly. You can find used controllers for sale on eBay/Amazon, etc. but I would not buy a used vintage one. It could be just a bad inside. I would buy an electronic controller and transfer my old cord to it, or buy it with the correct cords for your model. Electronic pedals do not have the carbon stack to worry about and they don't get hot; maybe barely warm, but need a surge protector, IMO. Here is a couple that say they work with your machine: www.amazon.com/Generic-Singer-Machine-Control-979314-031/dp/B008MM5CG0 and www.sewingpartsonline.com/foot-control-and-cord-singer-979314-031.aspx They are all made in China and you don't know the quality until you get it, so buyer beware.
Hi Andy! Mine is for a Touch & Sew 635. It doesn't have the screw on the right end to adjust. The left side has a black plug attached to the actuator spring with one of those washers. The black plug is what contacts the left end of the resistance tub. It is quite worn down. Do you know if I can get a new black carbon plug from somewhere? There is little to no play in the L-bracket that the right end of the resistance tube contacts. I would have to drill out the hole in it to turn it into a slot so that I could slide it to the left. Any ideas?
Update: I moved that L bracket as far over as I could (maybe 1 mm if that!), cleaned it up just a bit, and it's working great! Thanks! I'd still like to know if there's a what to get that left black plug piece that's connected to the left side of the actuator spring.
@@neonangus Glad you worked it out. If you want to keep that controller in the future you may want to invest in a replacement carbon unit while they are still available. It's the whole carbon tube. I do not know anyone selling just the end plug. Here is what I am talking about: store.tandtrepair.com/618804003.html?viewfullsite=1 That would give you an entire carbon stack as spares also. Terry will give you 20% off everything you buy before 8/1/2020 if you use coupon code andy-h-yt. People are also replacing the carbon stack style controllers with new electronic controllers that don't get hot and have superior speed control. They buy one and reuse their vintage cords if in good shape. Here are examples: store.tandtrepair.com/coco.html
Thee are other sellers of the electronic feet of course, with and without cords. There was one other carbon stack replacement seller but they have been out of stock for quite a while now.
BTW, nicely done to fix it. Congrats
@@andytubesewing1953 It's not actually the end plug of the carbon stack that is worn. It is another plug like thing that is attached to the brass actuator spring with one of those washers like the one that's attached to the bottom that you so carefully pried up. You don't have this on yours. I also can't slide my actuator spring to the right and left. It can only be in one position. I don't have the screw on the right to adjust either. Mine is 618811-007 and seems to have no adjustability! Wish I could post a photo...
@@neonangus Then it is a later version of the clamshell. A shame they cut corners. No parts like that available without just buying a spare pedal. Sorry, I misunderstood and good luck.
would using some metal washers as spacers/fillers be an option -given the fact that some carbons were taken out?
I would not do that. The carbons get warm/hot and maybe at a different rate than a metal washer. I'd be worried about an imbalance and fire. If only up to about 4 carbons are removed I can usually adjust the unit to still function normally. If so many are removed I replace the carbons or replace the whole foot controller. Here are options; there is a seller of the carbon unit for replacement: www.sewingpartsonline.com/carbon-resistance-unit-singer-618804-003.aspx
For a couple of $ less, you can buy a replacement carbon stack controller: www.shop.sew-classic.com/Foot-Control-Black-2-Wire-METAL-SCE507.htm
Better yet, IMO, for a couple $ more you can buy an electronic controller that never gets hot or even warm, has zero carbon in it and has incredible speed control:
www.shop.sew-classic.com/Foot-Control-Electronic-2-Wire-Type-UL-12-amp-SCE168FC.htm
Of course, all these are more expensive than a few washers, but if you burn out the controller, or worse your home, then you really did not save money. Be safe my friend.
I see you liked a video of the electronic pedal I mentioned being wired by the owner of Sew-Classic: ruclips.net/video/QNPti0gdm5U/видео.html
I installed a dozen of these and they work well. Of course, there are many other controllers for sale also. Good Luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 That makes sense regarding washers, thanks... I did manage to clean and adjust the original pedal but given it's nature and design, a new electronic one seems to be the way to go. also a new non-elastic belt.. i'm trying to apply the "andy-h-yt" CODE but it doesn't go thru.. Thanks for your reply.
I just realized I was using the CODE on the sew-classic.com but it was intented for site.tandtrepair.com.. :}
I think you'll like an electronic pedal. The andy-h-yt code is provided by Terry, the owner of this store: store.tandtrepair.com/
It isn't for use anywhere else. Terry is the only seller who offers Andy Tube viewers a discount. I wish others would, but no luck so far.
Hi, do you know where you could buy the shorting screw that you adjust? Thanks
I'm sorry but I do not know of anyone selling just that part by itself. It is rare to see one of these clamshell controllers being sold part-by-part but usually only the whole controller for sale on places like eBay. Because it screws into the shorting clip you may be able to find a similar screw at the hardware store that you can use. Maybe a headless self-tapping metal screw that would make its own threading as you screw it in.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you for the reply. Also the carbon resistance is hard to source too!
@@BFMMFB Yes, very hard to find carbons at this time. I used to buy this one but it has been out of stock for months
www.sewingpartsonline.com/carbon-resistance-unit-singer-618804-003.aspx
It can be cheaper to buy a new carbon resistor pedal and transfer your old cords into it, especially if you can wait for a shipment from China directly. www.ebay.com/itm/10A-Sewing-Machine-Foot-Control-Replace-Pedal-For-ELNA-KENMORE-VIKING-SINGER/302469510529?epid=2268428275&hash=item466c967581:g:MqQAAOSwuLFZzHEh that is a cheap plastic pedal, but there are many others. You can also buy an electronic pedal with or without the cords for your model and skip the carbon resistors. Because of the COVID virus prices are up and supplies are down. Good Luck and take care.👍
Very informative. I wish if you show us how to test electricaly
You can buy a $5 guide written by an expert repairman that covers that info. Use coupon code andy-h-yt for %20 off: store.tandtrepair.com/controlcsg.html
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks again, I am going to buy the instruction and try it. FYI I bought a new carbon unit and installed it thinking I do not have to do any ajustment, unfortunatly the problem did not change
@@marukthomasian6309 OK, good luck. The guide is about testing the foot controller, not the whole machine. Just so you know.
How to fix the speed button
I don't understand what you mean by "speed button".
Andy, Is there a source to buy the carbon resistor disks?
Covered in this video: ruclips.net/video/R4JuQ3o9dB0/видео.html
This is the only seller I know of www.sewingpartsonline.com/carbon-resistance-unit-singer-618804-003.aspx
Inside that tube are the round carbon discs. Half as many, but twice as thick. Remove from the tube and replace in the button style controller.
When I replaced the tube in a clamshell it was a very tight fit, so the others I have done I just used the new carbon parts in the old tube.
Good Luck and thanks for watching.