I find transitioning from bouldering to sport/lead climbing is waay better than the other way around. Starting off with bouldering gave me enough strength to get past all the beginner lead stuff where as my friend who only did lead had more troubles with beginner bouldering stuff
Yeah we often see very similar IF the climber is able to put the time in for the endurance base and they're also able to work on the efficiency side of climbing (also aside from mental game too!)
Really interesting vid. My strength and stamina have always far surpassed my speed and cardiovascular fitness. Whereas I know people with the opposite experience and they are all sport climbers while I prefer bouldering. I want to improve my weaknesses, but how do I make fitness training less monotonous?
Climb lead. Use 4 diffrent rutes you like and can usually do first try but is hard have 5- 10 min break. Then have a long break and repeat for to times. I think it's fun and i get fit. Can also do outside get som mileage
"In the winter I train power, for three reasons: Firstly, an increase in power leads to an increase in endurance - it doesn't work the other way around. Secondly, you retain power longer than endurance - after a lay-off you'll still be able to do hard boulder problems, but you'll be crap on routes. Thirdly, you make smaller power gains, and power is much harder to get [than endurance]." Jerry Moffat
Yes to some degree. It gives you a training "depth" which is often easier to build long term elite performance and also increases work capacity. It's actually a really complex subject. Almost feels like we should do a podcast on this one!
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I find transitioning from bouldering to sport/lead climbing is waay better than the other way around. Starting off with bouldering gave me enough strength to get past all the beginner lead stuff where as my friend who only did lead had more troubles with beginner bouldering stuff
Yeah we often see very similar IF the climber is able to put the time in for the endurance base and they're also able to work on the efficiency side of climbing (also aside from mental game too!)
Yes its back ! Thks
Really interesting vid. My strength and stamina have always far surpassed my speed and cardiovascular fitness. Whereas I know people with the opposite experience and they are all sport climbers while I prefer bouldering. I want to improve my weaknesses, but how do I make fitness training less monotonous?
Climb lead. Use 4 diffrent rutes you like and can usually do first try but is hard have 5- 10 min break. Then have a long break and repeat for to times. I think it's fun and i get fit. Can also do outside get som mileage
The worst part about this is how she stopped petting the dog.
PET THE DOG AT ALL TIMES
Haha!
does sport climbing help bouldering though? It doesn't seem so.
"In the winter I train power, for three reasons: Firstly, an increase in power leads to an increase in endurance - it doesn't work the other way around. Secondly, you retain power longer than endurance - after a lay-off you'll still be able to do hard boulder problems, but you'll be crap on routes. Thirdly, you make smaller power gains, and power is much harder to get [than endurance]." Jerry Moffat
Yes to some degree. It gives you a training "depth" which is often easier to build long term elite performance and also increases work capacity. It's actually a really complex subject. Almost feels like we should do a podcast on this one!
@@LatticeTraining you should!!!