Balancing Family, Work and Climbing | Lattice Training
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- In this latest episode of 'Ask Lattice' Ollie Torr is joined by Jon Procter, one of our newer members of the coaching team at Lattice.
Jon has almost an entirely different lifestyle to Ollie, in that he balances family life, a second job, early morning training and twice daily training. In this episode, they dive deeper into Jon's daily schedule and how he manages to balance it all, whilst staying psyched for outdoor climbing.
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For me this has been probably the most useful conversation in regards to time management. I’ve taken a lot from this, thanks!!!
Many people would disagree with "just sleep less", seeing how sleep affects absolutely everything in your life in a positive way. It's like a luck stat in real life.
This is definitely true the older you get
I thought I was the only one that does this... I have a healthy bouncey two year old at home (yes terrible twos) and found that the balance between a demanding job with late finishes, being active in raising my daughter and having a healthy marriage has led me to the same answer. Family, work and then climbing in that specific order. I usually aim to be at the crag at 4am and I try do this 2-3 times a week with a focus in the lower range and try some of my projects at the end of the session. There is something special about that cup of coffee in some of the most serene places in the country and having it all to yourself for 4-5 hours. It also gives me time to mentally look after myself and be there for my family. John thank you for the inspirational words...
Interesting stuff. I have two young kids and a full time job, so time management is very relevant to me. In these summer months I’ve also taken to getting up at 4:30 for a pre-work/pre-school run session in cooler connies. It’s been working for me, but i can only do it once a week or so before the lack of sleep wears me out. At 43 I need more sleep than I get…..but I do love having the Peak to myself at 5AM 👍🙂
I'm a father of 2 little ones, and since they were born I progressively worked towards waking up early in the mornkng, anywhere between 4-5am. Never thought to do finger training, it makes a lot of sense as it can be quiet! I Prefer sleeping 7-8 hours but realistically and with wakeups during the nights for the little ones one just needs to make a choice depending on their priorities. Even on weekends my kids could be up at 5am, what to do! Much respect for not sacrificing family time and for choosing to climb outdoors less, it's not an easy choice to make especially when that could be a perfect excuse for not sending. That used to really frustrate me until a friend and climbing guide told me to focus on my reality and not that of others. I've sent my hardest routes since becoming a dad! Waiting for my second Lattice plan to be issued, super psyched.
Having kids kills all excuses I used to make for sleeping in.
I'm a late night person and slow going in the morning; and when your single or have no children yet, discipline has to be what motivates you.
7 hours is plenty of sleeping time.
Jon is super inspiring, I really needed this
I always viewed 7B+ as solid V8 and 7B could be hard V7 or soft V8. So, I would count 7B+ as 8 pts. 7B’s would be either 7 or 8, depending on whether I personally thought it was closer to a 7 or 8.
Another very relevant video to start my work day with.
I think it counts as an 8.
Noooo. I need the .5 🤣
So funny, I just came up with similar V challenge in my local bouldering area. Jon, good job on managing training family and work, very inspirational
@@jonathanprocter4730 Haha, but this way you will get to climb more! Best of luck on the challenge, looking forward to watching it.
Family is everything
I think your hardest grade possible should be rated quite a lot higher than your flash level or anything in between. Grades are not exponential but to an individual it can feel like it and you should reward yourself with extra points when you repeat your hardest grade ever. That means the numbers will get big quite fast but that's fine!
The video summarized: Make time, wake up at 5 am and do some damn MILEAGE!!!
marvelous!
My thought is 8 points. In US it seems like plus and minus are rarely used and when we do V point challenges we don't do minus or plus half points... That is my crew I guess.
I think sleep would be a super cool topic for a future video, guys what do you think :D
The amount of sleep hours is not as important as sleep quality...
100 v points! Smash it! 💪
Family>Climbing>shitposting>work
at 9:50, what's the -20 about ? The hold angle ?
Jon seems like a sick geezer
Hard f7b+ can be v9 so I reckon 8.5 points sounds reasonable
Maybe i missed it...
twice a week training 1hr in the morning and 1.5 hours in the evening. Then climbing outdoors on Sunday.... thats it? Do you go to the climbing gym at all or any other activity/climbing?
The morning session is 60-90 minutes and the evening session is 90-120 minutes. Monday is 60 minutes of conditioning. That's it. I don't have time for anymore 😁
@@jonathanprocter4730 thank you for the reply. I find this fascinating. Im 31years old, started bouldering at 28. Ive been trying to break through a plateua, about 6c+/7a outdoors, but nothing seems to work. Diet is in check, i train regularly, climb regularly...no dice though. I feel im climbing way smoother than i used to, but no improvement indoors or outdoors grades-wise.
Your minimal actual climbing and focus on training just a few times a week, maybe im lacking real rest days.
7b+ is 8.5 points imo
V8.5 counts !
you said it yourself man. v points not font points, theres no .5 in the v scale
Climbing first.
Always was.
7B = 7.5 pts, 7B+ = 8.5 pts. I feel like this will even out better.
Sleeping is very individual and there is something you can control but a big part you can't control. Don't take too much advice from others on sleeping...
No doubts... v8+ is 8.5 points...
Trying to place Jon's accent... Is it a Barnsley accent??
Very close. Sheffield
The real question is how is Ollie balancing Crocs and Socks?
He's not! He has a terrible fashion sense! 🤣
Can't understand what's his IG account?
If the human body is the most sophisticated device on Earth, and it is, then your body doesn't need 8 hours of sleep to recover. What would you say about a Ferrari that has to lie in a mechanic for 8 hours a day? - Sadhguru
I would say sell the Ferrari, the mechanic costs would be astonishing!
@@LatticeTraining hehe, i' m not ferrari type of a guy at all, but for me is just hard to believe that we need to spend 1/3 of our lives to recover (sleep). I appreciate your work btw.
95% of growth hormone production is produced in slow wave (deep) sleep. That is when makes your muscles repair and develop . You stimulate with exercise, then sleep yourself stronger. Don’t underestimate the power of plenty of quality sleep. 🧗♀️ 🛌 😴 💪
7:3 for 1min, 10 sets, with 1min rest between each set. Did he say that you shouldn't get pumped doing this? Probably got it wrong and you should get hell of a pump I guess.
7:3 repeaters, 6 reps, 10 sets at 30% to 40% of your 10 second max. Rest 1 minute between sets. This is a super easy aerobic session. Give it a go for 8 weeks it ace 👍
@@jonathanprocter4730 thanks, definitely gonna try it. Twice a week, right? Do you change the protocol after 8 weeks?
@@elfriederich after 8 weeks enjoy the fruits of your labour 😁
Forget about your family, your job sucks, just climb
"Just sleep less" - What utter shite.
"Just sleep less, but at least 7h" is probably more accurate to what he meant ;)