My opinion would be just small screws instead of sex bolts on the main track, since the weight of the slides would be resting on the box. Seems to me that too much effort to drill the metal slide holes bigger. Just my thoughts..
Using smaller fasteners is viable, but if a large load and even a relatively small torsional (I built a similar devise for my tool capacity needs) event happens (it happens a lot, it’s not major, but it occurs often) each time it creates an extra tension on each fastener. Particularly the ones that are towards each end (corner) and they will become loose. This results in eventual friction. My first attempt had my drawer at 1/8” for clearance. The cabinet part of my build was 3/4” furniture grade plywood. The drawer bottom is the same, with the walls around outside are 1/2”, and dividers are the same (these serve to keep rigidity) but still the flex meant that some friction from a heavy load, and contestant road vibration soon made the drawer sometimes have drag. I didn’t use sex nuts, but the old fashioned T nuts. My first version was smaller hardware, but when I had to make the change, I went up to the next size. I can’t remember what sizes.
Thank you for this, I bought these exact ones for my build. I would have like to see you do the next step as well. What screws did you use to attach the dwar it's to the moving mechanism? And thank you again for this wonderful video. 🌻
1/2" lathe screws. The video on building the drawer for the hidden shower is this one - I like to break up the videos into bite sized chunks where possible ;) ruclips.net/video/h_h1DYmYcD4/видео.html
No, sorry, but that part is super simple. You simply work out the position that you want your drawer to sit in your cabinet and at what height and then you drill it into place!
Not as simple as the first part, since it is not inside the box. Everything has to be extended. I think I solved the problem by first getting one on each side of the outermost end of slides, while the drawer was only a few inches extended. When that was able to self support, I was able to do the opposite end. Once it was able to hold in place, I think I next removed everything and did the rest of the work on the actual drawer. Since the fountain was already established, I finally could reinstall the whole thing back into the box. At least I think that was how. I love this idea. I first did my first version of this project following your videos information. ❤
I found this video because I am looking for 500lb sliders to make my 300lb AV rack in my home theater retractable. Any issues with the advertised weight when fully extended?
Don’t expect that to fully work when it’s full capacity and full extension. Though since your project is stationary it may not be an issue. In a vehicle my 500lb slides have started to show after two years that wear and tear is not my friend. But thankfully I don’t need full capacity most of the time
I don't really see why a screw would fail; screws are extremely strong against sheer forces and I cannot see how any pull out forces could be applied to these slides. How could any lateral forces be applied to these fixings? The drawer is in the way. Something would somehow have to force the slides out of parallel. I just don't see how that can happen. And you have the slides resting on the floor anyway.
@@VanLifeDesigner I am using the exact sex nut screw thingos. I have watched heaps of profession draw installs and they all recommend this technique for many reasons… excellent work lovely… your build is going to be solid and durable… ❤
Thank you so much Tracor3k99. I hope my videos are helpful. The drawer box is made out of 1/2" birch plywood. It then has a waterproof coating on it and will be tiled. 😀
These videos are so inspiring. Thank you for the time you’ve spent creating and sharing these. I’m so glad I found your channel!
You are so welcome!
This is great, I'm right at this stage, much appreciated.
Glad it was helpful!
My opinion would be just small screws instead of sex bolts on the main track, since the weight of the slides would be resting on the box. Seems to me that too much effort to drill the metal slide holes bigger. Just my thoughts..
Thanks for your input!
Using smaller fasteners is viable, but if a large load and even a relatively small torsional (I built a similar devise for my tool capacity needs) event happens (it happens a lot, it’s not major, but it occurs often) each time it creates an extra tension on each fastener. Particularly the ones that are towards each end (corner) and they will become loose.
This results in eventual friction.
My first attempt had my drawer at 1/8” for clearance. The cabinet part of my build was 3/4” furniture grade plywood. The drawer bottom is the same, with the walls around outside are 1/2”, and dividers are the same (these serve to keep rigidity) but still the flex meant that some friction from a heavy load, and contestant road vibration soon made the drawer sometimes have drag.
I didn’t use sex nuts, but the old fashioned T nuts. My first version was smaller hardware, but when I had to make the change, I went up to the next size. I can’t remember what sizes.
Thanks for this
My pleasure!
Thank you for this, I bought these exact ones for my build. I would have like to see you do the next step as well. What screws did you use to attach the dwar it's to the moving mechanism? And thank you again for this wonderful video. 🌻
1/2" lathe screws. The video on building the drawer for the hidden shower is this one - I like to break up the videos into bite sized chunks where possible ;) ruclips.net/video/h_h1DYmYcD4/видео.html
Hi, how are you? How do you release the runner to attach it to the actual drawer box.
Thanks and keep up the good work
The depress the yellow (in my example) button down.
Thanks. Do you show somewhere how to attach the slide to the drawer as well?
No, sorry, but that part is super simple. You simply work out the position that you want your drawer to sit in your cabinet and at what height and then you drill it into place!
Not as simple as the first part, since it is not inside the box. Everything has to be extended.
I think I solved the problem by first getting one on each side of the outermost end of slides, while the drawer was only a few inches extended.
When that was able to self support, I was able to do the opposite end.
Once it was able to hold in place, I think I next removed everything and did the rest of the work on the actual drawer.
Since the fountain was already established, I finally could reinstall the whole thing back into the box.
At least I think that was how.
I love this idea. I first did my first version of this project following your videos information. ❤
I found this video because I am looking for 500lb sliders to make my 300lb AV rack in my home theater retractable. Any issues with the advertised weight when fully extended?
None at all!
@@VanLifeDesigner Thank you so much for the response. Very helpful video, I wish you safe travels!
Don’t expect that to fully work when it’s full capacity and full extension.
Though since your project is stationary it may not be an issue.
In a vehicle my 500lb slides have started to show after two years that wear and tear is not my friend.
But thankfully I don’t need full capacity most of the time
Hi! Just found your video and it's very interesting. Can you direct me to the slides you used? Thanks for the details!
In the description. And also here: amzn.to/3JFJHmu
How are those slides holding up?
Hello Ryan Skeete! Going great so far, thanks!.
I don't really see why a screw would fail; screws are extremely strong against sheer forces and I cannot see how any pull out forces could be applied to these slides. How could any lateral forces be applied to these fixings? The drawer is in the way. Something would somehow have to force the slides out of parallel. I just don't see how that can happen. And you have the slides resting on the floor anyway.
Good points. Yes, I've tended to over engineer much of my build to ensure for safety. Thanks for your input! 👍
@@VanLifeDesigner I am using the exact sex nut screw thingos. I have watched heaps of profession draw installs and they all recommend this technique for many reasons… excellent work lovely… your build is going to be solid and durable… ❤
What thickness wood did you use for setting a toilet on?
Thank you so much Tracor3k99. I hope my videos are helpful. The drawer box is made out of 1/2" birch plywood. It then has a waterproof coating on it and will be tiled. 😀
funny, I know those fasteners as Chicago screws but you know what they say, sex sells.
Do Not Use Vadania Drawers! Horrible experience with that company!