I have 3 different shoes for 3 different things. Got my really comfortable ones when i just don't feel like climb super hard but just have more like an endurance session. My "preload" for steep boulders and one pair that got lot's of friction for big volume boulders.
I love my Shamans for everything. They took a bit to break in, but now they're super comfortable and still very aggressive after a year of climbing with them. I am really curious about the X1 model, I think that will be my next pair of shoes (those or the Generals, obviously for very different reasons, hahaha).
They are soft and are pretty good on volumes and overhang, but they hurt on slab, they are pretty good shoes but I did find out the rubber on the toe is slick idk if it’s just me with them or the shoes bc they are a couple bat hang problems at my local gym and they slip off them I tried the other bat hang routes with my agros and was able to do them quite easily. One other thing I didn’t like was space in the heel but that’s been a problem with Evolv the only shoes with Evolv that I haven’t had that problem with was the agros and the zenist if you were looking for soft shoes I would suggest the zenist but they do run small
Had the Scarpa Instinct VS & VSR, La Sportiva Skwama, Tenaya Oasi, Mad Rock Haywire and now the Evolv Shaman. The Shaman is by far the best out of them all. A true allround shoe, that doesn't hurt a bit.
Not so much 'the best' as the 'best one for you', then, right? Skwama and Oasi are not really comparable to the VS and Shaman, because the latter have a lot more structural rigidity. The X1 is more similar to Skwama and Oasi. Instinct VS and Shaman are definitely direct competitors, the former worked best for me as it feels slightly smaller than the Shaman. Shaman definitely has incredible comfort with the greater degree of downturn than the Instinct with it's love-bump, though!
@@the.Aruarian Those shoes, with the exception of the haywire (wich would actually be my second place), are close enough together to be comparable. They are all meant to be allround shoes and not just speciality shoes. Shamans are thought out and executed perfectly. Skwamas for instance are very good on paper, but not executed well (tension band to thick, so the heel can't adjust to your feet and only drives your toes into the front, making the heel more and more baggy with use).
@@sonnymorgan4680 Sorry to ask you here. There're little to no information or review about mad rock haywire. What is your thought about the haywire, fit, heel, performance, etc. The only thing I know about this pair is the softness, and I'm curious to know how u sized them comparing to your street shoe size or other climbing shoes. Thank you so much!!!
@@k900341 They are really soft and sensitive. Fit is really good for me. They take about3-5 Sessions to really transform to the shape of your feet. I'm 45 (sometimes 44,5) EUR in Streetshoes and bought them in the recommended size 44. The upper is very stretchy and the shoe will stretch out, but they have to be really tight, so you don't slip in them. If I would get another pair, I would buy them in 43. 44 was too loose after they stretched out. I have wide feet, but I don't think footshape is important with these shoes, since they are made out of rubber that will mold to your feet, and the upper stretches anyways. Grip is very good after about 5 sessions and the no edge technology will help you stand on small edges, even for a soft shoe like that, given you size them tight enough. The upper is way less breathable, than one might think. You will sweat in them like in any other shoe and since they are synthetic, they will stink a lot more than leather shoes would. For comparison, my other shoe sizes: Evolv Shamans 45, Scarpa Insticts VSR 43,5, Instinct VS 44, La Sportiva Skwama 42,5, Tenaya Oasi 43,5, Butora Acro 44, Scarpa Drago 43.
@@sonnymorgan4680 Thanks for answering, that helps a lot!!!! I'll definitely get myself a pair. I really need a soft shoe to train my foot strength. Just a little concern that the heel of Haywire would popout.
@@noahale Yes. Apparently a slightly more sensitive midsole, whatever that means, and one less strap than the Shaman's. Obviously it's down to personal foot shape. For me the shaman didn't really work, yet the shakra's fit like a glove. Worth a try if you like the Shaman's but they dont quite fit.
I don´t care about shoes! just finally do a video on different rubbers in detail! CAn be 2 hours long. Do proper testing and detailed descriptions of all the brands.
![Der Sonderbundskrieg [1847] | Der letzte Krieg auf Schweizer Boden ...](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cL_aLh6pFts/mqdefault.jpg)
Dudes been quickly becoming one of my favourite bouldering athletes, he's knowledgable, down to earth charismatic and super strong
*Talking about X1 use in competition*
*Shows photo of Orrin wearing Nexxos*
I'm surprised you didn't cover the Oracle. It seems to be the new go-to all-rounder by Evolv. I know they stock(ed) it on bananafingers, too.
The Oracle is a cheater. I cant think of another shoe during my 20 years in climbing that edges so well! Own 2 pairs will buy another one.
The dudes got climbing hands, that's for sure.
Jon Rapson holy shit yeah
I have 3 different shoes for 3 different things. Got my really comfortable ones when i just don't feel like climb super hard but just have more like an endurance session. My "preload" for steep boulders and one pair that got lot's of friction for big volume boulders.
I love my Shamans for everything. They took a bit to break in, but now they're super comfortable and still very aggressive after a year of climbing with them. I am really curious about the X1 model, I think that will be my next pair of shoes (those or the Generals, obviously for very different reasons, hahaha).
They are soft and are pretty good on volumes and overhang, but they hurt on slab, they are pretty good shoes but I did find out the rubber on the toe is slick idk if it’s just me with them or the shoes bc they are a couple bat hang problems at my local gym and they slip off them I tried the other bat hang routes with my agros and was able to do them quite easily. One other thing I didn’t like was space in the heel but that’s been a problem with Evolv the only shoes with Evolv that I haven’t had that problem with was the agros and the zenist if you were looking for soft shoes I would suggest the zenist but they do run small
Might wanna go up a bit on the X1’s
True
Had the Scarpa Instinct VS & VSR, La Sportiva Skwama, Tenaya Oasi, Mad Rock Haywire and now the Evolv Shaman. The Shaman is by far the best out of them all. A true allround shoe, that doesn't hurt a bit.
Not so much 'the best' as the 'best one for you', then, right? Skwama and Oasi are not really comparable to the VS and Shaman, because the latter have a lot more structural rigidity. The X1 is more similar to Skwama and Oasi. Instinct VS and Shaman are definitely direct competitors, the former worked best for me as it feels slightly smaller than the Shaman. Shaman definitely has incredible comfort with the greater degree of downturn than the Instinct with it's love-bump, though!
@@the.Aruarian Those shoes, with the exception of the haywire (wich would actually be my second place), are close enough together to be comparable. They are all meant to be allround shoes and not just speciality shoes. Shamans are thought out and executed perfectly. Skwamas for instance are very good on paper, but not executed well (tension band to thick, so the heel can't adjust to your feet and only drives your toes into the front, making the heel more and more baggy with use).
@@sonnymorgan4680 Sorry to ask you here. There're little to no information or review about mad rock haywire. What is your thought about the haywire, fit, heel, performance, etc. The only thing I know about this pair is the softness, and I'm curious to know how u sized them comparing to your street shoe size or other climbing shoes. Thank you so much!!!
@@k900341 They are really soft and sensitive. Fit is really good for me. They take about3-5 Sessions to really transform to the shape of your feet. I'm 45 (sometimes 44,5) EUR in Streetshoes and bought them in the recommended size 44. The upper is very stretchy and the shoe will stretch out, but they have to be really tight, so you don't slip in them. If I would get another pair, I would buy them in 43. 44 was too loose after they stretched out. I have wide feet, but I don't think footshape is important with these shoes, since they are made out of rubber that will mold to your feet, and the upper stretches anyways. Grip is very good after about 5 sessions and the no edge technology will help you stand on small edges, even for a soft shoe like that, given you size them tight enough. The upper is way less breathable, than one might think. You will sweat in them like in any other shoe and since they are synthetic, they will stink a lot more than leather shoes would. For comparison, my other shoe sizes: Evolv Shamans 45, Scarpa Insticts VSR 43,5, Instinct VS 44, La Sportiva Skwama 42,5, Tenaya Oasi 43,5, Butora Acro 44, Scarpa Drago 43.
@@sonnymorgan4680 Thanks for answering, that helps a lot!!!! I'll definitely get myself a pair. I really need a soft shoe to train my foot strength. Just a little concern that the heel of Haywire would popout.
4:49 'cranking for Christ' lmao
evolv shakra's are now my go to for hard bouldering, shame they weren't covered
That's just the low volume variant of the Shaman AFAIK, so most of the comments made about the Shaman are applicable.
@@noahale Yes. Apparently a slightly more sensitive midsole, whatever that means, and one less strap than the Shaman's. Obviously it's down to personal foot shape. For me the shaman didn't really work, yet the shakra's fit like a glove. Worth a try if you like the Shaman's but they dont quite fit.
@@noahale toe box is massive on them.
I don´t care about shoes! just finally do a video on different rubbers in detail! CAn be 2 hours long. Do proper testing and detailed descriptions of all the brands.
Someone buy Matt more shoes so we can get more opinions! Although... I'm not sure why his opinion matters so much to me...
Evolv should bring back the Geshido.
This aged well
I have yet to watch the video, but if you don't choose the Shamans then you're wrong! =P
Old model was better.
I saw u