I've been using my Mantras for a year now (2023 colourway). At first, it was incredibly painful and knocked me down a couple of grades as I was used to climbing in stiff shoes. But the whole time honestly felt like a training arc. The Mantras really taught me about the intricacies of foot placement and strengthening my toes. Now when I go back to climbing in stiff edge shoes, I feel like I had a massive buff and I utilize them a lot better. For example, I'm now consciously pulling in with my toes like I did with the Mantras. Regarding build quality, I will say that even with my year older production batch, I have the same asymmetry with the rubber on the inside edge as you.
I had 2 pairs of Mantra S from 20 years ago. Loved them in Bishop and in the gym. I brought them back out of the bin for 6 months early in 2024. I was sad when I finally wore through them. I love the “ballerina “ shoes for indoor routes. When the shoe is thin, I climb with quiet feet and the shoes last for years. Don’t expect a light shoe with thin rubber to heal hook well. I’m buying a new pair for sure.
My brother has had several pair of climbing shoes now and the ONLY pair that gave him problems early on and delaminated on him was a pair of La Sportiva Tarantulas. The rubber at the toe started peeling up after like 7 climbing sessions (indoor only) with them and we contacted the company with pics and receipt and they told us it was my brothers fault, he was causing undue wear on them because of poor climbing technique. My pair of Mad Rocks cost me like 40$ on sale that I've used for almost half a year and I've put them thru hell, both outdoor and indoor bouldering, walking on sand at the beach to get to climbs, walking around parking lots in Joshua Tree and to the boulders themselves, etc. NO peeling. ZERO ISSUES. Yes I AM too lazy to take them off and put them back on between approaches...
i've tried mad rocks before and for me the toe boxes always seem to be good enough but the heel just always seem to be too big. Again, i think i have a small heel problem.
I think lots of shoes purchased online (if you happened to have purchased the mantras on the interwebz) are returns. I know I’ve received shoes that have been worn or really “tried on” maybe the previous person tested the heel on some stairs? Anyway it’s so difficult to purchase climbing shoes online I know I returned a dozen pairs before because of sizing lol
I remember when La Sportiva first released these shoes in the late 90's. They were purple back then and the sensitivity so unique it felt like you dipped your feet in hot rubber. They were awesome for climbing roofs at Hueco with thin flakes for feet. I was surprised they abandoned them for so long before coming back to their no edge technology.
Great review! It's interesting how the smearing was subpar considering this is marketed as a gym shoe. I'd be interested in a follow-up to this video in 2/3 months or so
Thanks for the detailed review. How did you size these bad boys compared to your solutions? And after having them for a bit, how is the stretch? I tired a pair a the same size as my old solution comps, and they were immediately comfier. Makes me think I'm might have to size them down a half size more.
It’s not low volume, it’s only one volume on these new Mantra’s. And I think smearing is very good in these shoes. Maybe flat shoes like Up Mocc is even better, but I don’t have the same problem as you describe. Besides that, your review is just like I feel when I use them. Much more secure on any kind of holds. The suction on my foot gets even better as a get a little warmed up, and it’s very comfortable even at the size I bought, which was my smallest shoes ever😅
A lot of the imperfections like the excess rubber and little skid marks are most likely from the production line. Every shoe cant be perfect, and not many are, but they should all work t he same regardless of aesthetics
@@ChengisAlwaysClimbing i imagine its coming from the addition of the smoothed out rubber. I saw the Mantras and the rest of the no edge lineup in the la sportiva store in Boulder a few months ago and saw imperfections on the ones being displayed. Big issue if the shoes are not the same on the left and right in every pair
I know this is way too early on your journey with them, but will you resole them when the time comes. If so, can they only be resoled with La Sportiva? Would love to see a vid!
I have resoled a pair of the blue/orange Mantras and as long as it's a La Sportiva approved Resoling business (which appears to be quite alot, atleast in Europe) you'll get an original La Sportiva spare part. Mine looked like new after resoling
I've been using my Mantras for a year now (2023 colourway). At first, it was incredibly painful and knocked me down a couple of grades as I was used to climbing in stiff shoes. But the whole time honestly felt like a training arc. The Mantras really taught me about the intricacies of foot placement and strengthening my toes. Now when I go back to climbing in stiff edge shoes, I feel like I had a massive buff and I utilize them a lot better. For example, I'm now consciously pulling in with my toes like I did with the Mantras. Regarding build quality, I will say that even with my year older production batch, I have the same asymmetry with the rubber on the inside edge as you.
I had 2 pairs of Mantra S from 20 years ago. Loved them in Bishop and in the gym.
I brought them back out of the bin for 6 months early in 2024. I was sad when I finally wore through them.
I love the “ballerina “ shoes for indoor routes. When the shoe is thin, I climb with quiet feet and the shoes last for years. Don’t expect a light shoe with thin rubber to heal hook well. I’m buying a new pair for sure.
I love how you review climbing shoes , is so detailed ❤
oh thanks. it was muy first review too lol
@@ChengisAlwaysClimbing doing a lot better then others imo 👍👍
My brother has had several pair of climbing shoes now and the ONLY pair that gave him problems early on and delaminated on him was a pair of La Sportiva Tarantulas.
The rubber at the toe started peeling up after like 7 climbing sessions (indoor only) with them and we contacted the company with pics and receipt and they told us it was my brothers fault, he was causing undue wear on them because of poor climbing technique.
My pair of Mad Rocks cost me like 40$ on sale that I've used for almost half a year and I've put them thru hell, both outdoor and indoor bouldering, walking on sand at the beach to get to climbs, walking around parking lots in Joshua Tree and to the boulders themselves, etc. NO peeling. ZERO ISSUES. Yes I AM too lazy to take them off and put them back on between approaches...
i've tried mad rocks before and for me the toe boxes always seem to be good enough but the heel just always seem to be too big. Again, i think i have a small heel problem.
I think lots of shoes purchased online (if you happened to have purchased the mantras on the interwebz) are returns. I know I’ve received shoes that have been worn or really “tried on” maybe the previous person tested the heel on some stairs? Anyway it’s so difficult to purchase climbing shoes online I know I returned a dozen pairs before because of sizing lol
I remember when La Sportiva first released these shoes in the late 90's. They were purple back then and the sensitivity so unique it felt like you dipped your feet in hot rubber. They were awesome for climbing roofs at Hueco with thin flakes for feet. I was surprised they abandoned them for so long before coming back to their no edge technology.
Great review! It's interesting how the smearing was subpar considering this is marketed as a gym shoe. I'd be interested in a follow-up to this video in 2/3 months or so
Thanks for the detailed review. How did you size these bad boys compared to your solutions? And after having them for a bit, how is the stretch? I tired a pair a the same size as my old solution comps, and they were immediately comfier. Makes me think I'm might have to size them down a half size more.
It’s not low volume, it’s only one volume on these new Mantra’s.
And I think smearing is very good in these shoes. Maybe flat shoes like Up Mocc is even better, but I don’t have the same problem as you describe.
Besides that, your review is just like I feel when I use them. Much more secure on any kind of holds. The suction on my foot gets even better as a get a little warmed up, and it’s very comfortable even at the size I bought, which was my smallest shoes ever😅
Hey I don’t know if you’ve ever mentioned it before, but where do you get your tank tops? Love your videos!
oncueappareal my G
Never clicked so fast on a video :) Nice review, i am locking forward for the long term review, how durability they will be
What size do you wear in the five ten Niad Mocs?? I want to get the same mantras as yours but don’t know what size!
for the niad I wear 8.5. for the mantras I wear 8 US
i allways had a problem with my heel spliping but now i have Unparallel SOUPED UP and i dont have that problem any more
i might have to check those out
A lot of the imperfections like the excess rubber and little skid marks are most likely from the production line. Every shoe cant be perfect, and not many are, but they should all work t he same regardless of aesthetics
nah...i've seen them solutions and theorys b4, those shoes are pretty much all the same.
@@ChengisAlwaysClimbing i imagine its coming from the addition of the smoothed out rubber. I saw the Mantras and the rest of the no edge lineup in the la sportiva store in Boulder a few months ago and saw imperfections on the ones being displayed. Big issue if the shoes are not the same on the left and right in every pair
I know this is way too early on your journey with them, but will you resole them when the time comes. If so, can they only be resoled with La Sportiva? Would love to see a vid!
i actually don't know. I probably won't resole them, just not a fan of resoling shoes.
I have resoled a pair of the blue/orange Mantras and as long as it's a La Sportiva approved Resoling business (which appears to be quite alot, atleast in Europe) you'll get an original La Sportiva spare part. Mine looked like new after resoling
Yo!
Do you prefer these over the ones you used before? I want a pair of "ballerinas"
currently...no. but it's probably because i've only had them for like 2 days so far