Replacing a Casement Window in a Brick Opening
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- Опубликовано: 10 дек 2015
- In this video I'll show you the steps to replacing a window inside a brick opening on this 1970's Texas house. We'll be using Integrity windows which is Marvin's fiberglass brand, and this particular window is a casement (or crank-out). I'll also touch on the weatherization process including using DuPont Flexwrap, Straightflash, and which foam and caulk to use. For more information visit my blog at www.MattRisinger.com. or the Integrity website www.IntegrityWindows.com
Best,
Matt Risinger
Risinger Homes in Austin, TX
Definitely will give you credit for taping off and not getting caulk all over the brick.
thank you. the best video on casement window measurement and replacement I've found
Nice install, great detail
Very informative and helpful.
Flex Wrap is one amazing product! used it a few times setting Windows in the summer of 2014! Tyvek know what they are doing for sure.
Well made video and some great tips.
rocking the fastcap tape measure. I like it.
I have a 1950 brick ranch (in Iowa). I have installed replacement windows but it is nice to see the process of a full replacement. I have a 12ftx6ft window I need replaced. I'm considering a Marvin. Now I just need to pull the trigger. My 65 year old windows are super leaky.
Another commenter said this, but you should have shown more of the work you are talking about.
lol good ol' harbor fright Oscillating tool
thats what i was thinking
Just like mine, bought the lifetime warranty, free replacement, biggest bang for the buck, lol
How many man hours does it take to replace a window like that one on average?
So expansion foam, backer rod, then chalk?
I guess similar method updated method can be used with prosoco line of products that you recently posted?
4:19 Is that shot before the caulk was tooled? Guessing it wasn't left like that.
It would look AMAZING if you took off the shutters!
What about the inside of the home, anything that needs to be removed (old window) or caulked (New window) there?
I am guessing you can use the new R Guard product in place of flex tape?
@Matt Risinger, having watched a ton of your build show videos, would this still be the way you would install these? I have seen you use the Prosoco liquid applied flashing and air dam products more recently. Would you use those instead of the spray foam and flex wrap?
I’d definitely go the Prosoco route today!
@@buildshow air dam over backer rod inside and out? Congrats on the 1m followers!
Spray foam around windows. Doesnt allow for proper expansion/contraction correct?
Because newer vinyl windows move more.
ON THE BUILD SHOWWWW
I only cut the flanges out on Masonite siding with quad caulk, urghhh. Aluminum on brick are the easiest to pry out since you have brick to pry against. Don't forget a piece of 1/4" steel between your bar and the brick.
could you kindly link a picture of what you mean? Thanks
Randal Gibbons has the
Matt, I have a mid 1950's home with brick up to the bottom of the windows. Vertical boards cover the outside walls from the brick to the top of the eaves. I want to remove the steel casement windows and replace them with something else. BUT I can't find any videos that tell how to remove the steel casement windows. Any input??
When remodeling the garage I tried to unattach the frame and discovered that while there are screws in the sides of the frame, holding it to the wood in the side of the window opening, I still couldn't remove the frame. It was still solidly attached to something.
So you reused the sill from the old window?
Hi Matt, what is that tool you used to push in the foam backer rod? I have one in my tool belt I inherited and I’m not sure the origin of it! I was thinking wallpaper stripper?
It's just a 5-in-1 painter's tool, available pretty much anywhere in the paint department.
Is this considered a full frame replacement or insert ?
replacement, there was no nailing fin used.
That would be full frame. Inserts typically are installed into an existing window's finish frame. This is installed into a rough opening. They took the nailing fins off because there would be no way to get them past the brick.
This video should've been a little less artsy and shown more of what you're talking about on the voice over.
ten days?
Angle grinder does work but have you ever tried to get Pella Casement aluminum clad windows cut out!?? It is hell. Their window fins are steel and so damn tough. It took my guys all day to take out a triple 3 Pella casement that had wood rot. Pella had a large class action lawsuit that just finished up because 100s of thousands of homeowners since the 90s up until just recently got burned because their aluminum rolled clad and Wood windows were not made right and rain got down in there and rotted out these windows, and all these new homes built over the past 25 -30 years approximately had this Pella problem. Unfortunately, mine was one of them so I am replacing with Marvins best Casements custom made, and their fins are much easier to deal with. Pella burned so many people. I am telling everyone. Google it. Never again. They don’t honor their junk either. They fought this vigorously in court. Despicable.
And this is not that easy to take out many windows.